[Archive] [Q&A] SBF CB400 Official Q&A Thread 2008 [Archive]

PaLmEr

04-06-2008, 08:52 PM

Some Common Q&A From Old Q&A Thread (Under Construction)

<Q> What is the purpose and function of repacking the muffler with fiber?
<A> Repacking the muffler is generally to keep the noise level at a reasonable level.

<Q> Engine doesn't start or is difficult to start
(Contributed by Ah Pek)
Possible causes:
1) Starter motor doesn't rotate.

a) Engine kill switch OFF.

b) Fuse blown. Check main fuse.

c) Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery.

d) Starter motor defective. Make sure the wiring to the starter is secure.
Make sure the starter relay clicks when the start button is pushed. If the
relay clicks, then the fault is in the wiring or motor.

e) Starter relay faulty.

f) Starter switch not contacting. The contacts could be wet, corroded or
dirty. Disassemble and clean the switch.

g) Wiring open or shorted. Check all wiring connections and harnesses to
make sure that they are dry, tight and not corroded. Also check for
broken or frayed wires that can cause a short to earth.

h) Ignition (main) switch defective. Renew the switch if it is defective.

i) Engine kill switch defective. Check for wet, dirty or corroded
contacts.

j) Faulty neutral, sidestand or clutch switch. Check the wiring to each
switch and the switch itself accordingly.

2) Starter motor rotates but engine does not turn over

a) Starter motor clutch defective. Inspect and repair or renew

b) Damaged idler or starter gears. Inspect and renew the damaged
parts.

3) Starter works but engine won't turn over (seized)

a) Seized engine caused by one or more internally damaged components:
Failure due to wear, abuse or lack of lubrication. Damage can include
seized valves, followers, camshafts, pistons, crankshaft, connecting rod
bearings, or transmission gears or bearings.

4) No fuel flow

a) No fuel in tank.

b) Fuel tank breather nose obstructed.

c) Fuel tap filter or in-line filter clogged. Remove the tap and clean it and the
filters.

d) Fuel line clogged. Pull the fuel line loose and carefully blow through it.

e) Float needle valve clogged. For all of the valves to be clogged, either a
very bad batch of fuel with an unusual additive has been used, or some
other foreign material has entered the tank. Many times after a machine
has been stored for many months without running, the fuel turns to a
varnish-like liquid and forms deposits on the inlet needle valves and jets.

The carburettors should be removed and overhauled if draining the float
chambers doesn't solve the problem.

5) Engine flooded
a) Float height too high.

b) Float needle valve worn or stuck open. A piece of dirt, rust or other debris
can cause the valve to seat improperly, causing excess fuel to be
admitted to the float chamber. In this case, the float chamber should be
cleaned and the needle valve and seat inspected. If the needle and seat
are worn, then the leaking will persist and the parts should be renewed

c) Starting technique incorrect. Under normal circumstances (ie, if all the
carburettor functions are sound) the machine should start with little or no
throttle. When the engine is cold, the choke should be operated and the
engine started without opening the throttle.

When the engine is at operating temperature, only a very slight amount of
throttle should be necessary. If the engine is flooded, turn the fuel tap
OFF and hold the throttle open while cranking the engine. This will allow
additional air to reach the cylinders. Remember to turn the fuel tap back
ON after the engine starts.

6) No spark or weak spark

a) Ignition switch OFF. Engine kill switch turned to the OFF position
Battery voltage low. Check and recharge the battery as necessary
Spark plugs dirty, defective or worn out. Locate reason for fouled plugs
using spark plug condition chart at the end of this manual and follow the
plug maintenance procedures.

b) Spark plug caps or secondary (HT) wiring faulty. Check condition. Renew
if cracks or deterioration are evident.

c) Spark plug caps not making good contact. Make sure that the plug
caps fit snugly over the plug ends.

d) Ignition control unit defective.

e) Pulse generator coil(s) defective.

f) Ignition HT coils defective.

g) Ignition or kill switch shorted. This is usually caused by water, corrosion, damage or excessive wear. The switches can be disassembled and cleaned
with electrical contact cleaner. If cleaning does not help, renew the
switches.

h) Wiring shorted or broken between:
i) Ignition (main) switch and engine kill switch (or blown fuse)
ii) Ignition control unit and engine kill switch
iii) Ignition control unit and ignition HT coils
iv) Ignition HT coils and spark plugs
v) Ignition control unit and pulse generator□ Make sure that all wiring connections are clean, dry and tight. Look for chafed and broken wires.

7) Engine Compression low

a) Spark plugs loose. Remove the plugs and inspect their threads. Reinstall and tighten securely.
b) Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down. If the cylinder head is suspected of being loose, then there's a chance that the gasket or head is damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of time. The head nuts should be tightened to the proper torque in the correct sequence.

c) Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve is not closing completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve. Check and adjust the valve clearances.

d)Cylinder and/or piston worn. Excessive wear will cause compression pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually accompanied by worn rings as well. A top-end overhaul is necessary. Typical symptom will be white smoke coming out from your exhaust.

e) Piston rings worn, weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking piston rings usually indicate a lubrication or carburation problem that causes excessive
carbon deposits or seizures to form on the pistons and rings. Top-end overhaul Is necessary.[/SIZE]

f) Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused by excessive wear of the piston ring lands. Piston renewal is necessary.

g) Cylinder head gasket damaged, If a head is allowed to become loose, or if excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and combustion chamber causes extremely high compression, the head gasket may leak. Retorquing
the head is not always sufficient to restore the seal, so gasket renewal is
necessary.

h) Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or improperly
tightened head nuts. Machine shop resurfacing or head renewal is necessary.

<Q> My bike runs like #@!#@%@ at low speeds!! (Contributed by Ah Pek)

1) Spark weak
Possible Causes:
a) Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery. Spark plugs fouled, defective or worn out.

b) Spark plug cap or HT wiring defective.

c) Spark plug caps not making contact.

d) Incorrect spark plugs. Wrong type, heat range or cap configuration.

e) Ignition control unit defective.

f) Pulse generator defective.

g) Ignition HT coils defective.

h) Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
i) Pilot screws out of adjustment.
ii) Pilot jet or air passage clogged. Remove and overhaul the carburettors.
iii) Air bleed holes clogged. Remove carburettor and blow out all passages.
iv) Air filter clogged, poorly sealed or missing.
v) Air filter housing poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose clamps and
renew or repair defective parts.

h) Fuel level too high or too low. Check the float height.

i) Fuel tank breather hose obstructed.

j) Carburettor inlet manifolds loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears
or loose clamps. Renew the rubber inlet manifold joints if split or
perished.

k) Timing not advancing. The pulse generator or the ignition control module
may be defective. If so, they must be renewed, as they can't be repaired.

l) Carburettors not synchronised. Adjust then with a vacuum gauge set or
manometer.

m) Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than that recommended
can damage the oil pump or lubrication system and cause drag on the
engine.

n) Brakes dragging. Usually caused by debris which has entered the brake
piston seals, or from a warped disc or bent axle. Repair as necessary.

continue...

3 Poor running or no power at high speed.

Firing incorrect

Air filter restricted. Clean or renew filter.

Spark plugs fouled, defective or worn out.

Spark plug caps or HT wiring defective.

Spark plug caps not in good contact.

Incorrect spark plugs. Wrong type, heat range or cap configuration.

Ignition control unit defective.

Ignition HT coils defective.

Fuel/air mixture incorrect

Main jet clogged. Dirt, water or other contaminants can clog the main jets. Clean the fuel tap filter, the in-line filter, the float chamber area, and the jets and carburettor orifices.

Main jet wrong size. Th9 standard jetting is for sea level atmospheric pressure and oxygen content.

Air bleed holes clogged. Remove and overhaul carburettors.

Air filter clogged, poorly sealed, or missing.

Air filter housing poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose clamps, and renew defective parts.
[SIZE=1]
Fuel level too high or too low. Check the float height.

Fuel tank breather hose obstructed.

Carburettor inlet manifolds loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears or loose clamps. Renew the rubber inlet manifolds if they are split or perished.

PaLmEr

04-06-2008, 08:52 PM

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PaLmEr

04-06-2008, 08:52 PM

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PaLmEr

04-06-2008, 08:56 PM

* reserved post *

PaLmEr

04-06-2008, 08:57 PM

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PaLmEr

04-06-2008, 08:57 PM

* reserved post ***

PaLmEr

04-06-2008, 08:57 PM

* reserved post ****

PaLmEr

04-06-2008, 08:57 PM

* reserved post *****

PaLmEr

04-06-2008, 08:57 PM

* reserved post ******

rapalla

05-06-2008, 11:22 AM

inspire85

05-06-2008, 06:15 PM

weixiang

05-06-2008, 07:22 PM

[B]IKER

05-06-2008, 08:29 PM

Hi Guys/gals..

Attached a few pics inside, pls advise if i should go for repaint or relacquer..?
If relacquer i guess they still need to paint touch up my faded parts hor..??

http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/4193/sfcb4001wy3.jpg
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/3994/sfcb4002nc2.jpg
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/4878/sfcb4003ba0.jpg

<A> my suggestion... tank bra..... :cheeky: :cheeky:

B.e.n.s.o.n

05-06-2008, 08:42 PM

logen1836

05-06-2008, 09:04 PM

Hi Guys/gals..

Attached a few pics inside, pls advise if i should go for repaint or relacquer..?
If relacquer i guess they still need to paint touch up my faded parts hor..??

http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/4193/sfcb4001wy3.jpg
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/3994/sfcb4002nc2.jpg
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/4878/sfcb4003ba0.jpg

jus cover the black portion wid black stickers to cover the whole black portion.
do at Juzz Wheelz (Bukit Merah).not sure bout pricing.
den lacquer if u still want ya ori paintwork. :thumb:

I_Ride_A_Bike

05-06-2008, 09:12 PM

A useful and profitable thread for all.

esp. to those who gather at teckghee square for kopi etc...

"ah pek, i have ruffled your giant feathers! bollocks to be near!"

GodSend

05-06-2008, 09:33 PM

IKER;4324447']my suggestion... tank bra..... :cheeky: :cheeky:

If the cost of respray is more then a Tank Bra's worth.. then i tink [B]iker solution sounds gd.... :P

armyjeff

05-06-2008, 10:46 PM

hihi.. do any1 know e difference between vtec I & vtec II. :giddy:
eg. the fc between them. which is better or e same or any difference or similarities between them... thx.. lots.. :angel:

weixiang

05-06-2008, 11:16 PM

alamak..i was hoping dun need to wear bra..! :(
hahaha....

wonder if can just respray affected area + relaquer..?
:P

PaLmEr

05-06-2008, 11:23 PM

alamak..i was hoping dun need to wear bra..! :(
hahaha....

wonder if can just respray affected area + relaquer..?
:P

the effect will not be good. Recommended to do a full respray of the tank. While you are at it, maybe you would like to respray the tailboard and rims too, to give your bike a new lease of life.

4D~ToTo~Big Sweep

06-06-2008, 12:31 AM

ONe got V Tec di aother 1s no lor:angel: :angel: :angel:

Stardust83

06-06-2008, 02:00 AM

ONe got V Tec di aother 1s no lor:angel: :angel: :angel:

huh ? Vtec I and II both got Vtec lehz....o_O

Ah Pek

06-06-2008, 02:06 AM

Yah hor...may be a good place to start a reference for some basic trouble shooting and knowledge for S4 beginner owners..be it Vtec or non Vtec amchine.

Some of you guys are already quite up to it and can contribute just as much..one thing though..I'm not into bike comestic or help producing horsepower stuff. See how this thread goes for the next few days.

[B]IKER

06-06-2008, 02:14 AM

ONe got V Tec di aother 1s no lor:angel: :angel: :angel:

Huh.. You comparing the correct bike or not??
then Spec 3 ? Got turbo ?? cause spec 2 got vtec..

huh ? Vtec I and II both got Vtec lehz....o_O

LOL, my reaction was like ===> o_O o_O o_O o_O when i saw the reply...

Okie, basically to my understanding, Spec 2 Vtec opens at a different RPM..
I forgot what is the RPM... 6.3k for all gears except 6.8K for the last gear..

Then Spec 1 is 7k or 105KM/hr then vtec opens... basically is 7K for all gears.

:thumb:

Dkoh

06-06-2008, 03:39 PM

PaLmEr

06-06-2008, 05:37 PM

[Q] was thinking of trading in my wave125 for a version S........ Any idea where can get good offer? The version S that i found at bike shop all very expensive from 4k to 4.8k.... Is that the market price for 2nd hand version S?

this price can buy you a Spec I most of the time.

Pros of Spec I: VTEC, newer model
Cons of spec I: COE due soon in 1 or 2 years

Pros of Ver S: COE renewed
Cons of Ver S: older model, may need to spend more $ to refurbish compared to Spec I

4D~ToTo~Big Sweep

06-06-2008, 09:08 PM

huh ? Vtec I and II both got Vtec lehz....o_O

Opss.... I was drank... :thirsty: :thirsty: :thirsty: http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/8134/lmaobuttonnz3.gif

BioMoDiFIed

06-06-2008, 11:28 PM

MonoWorld

06-06-2008, 11:37 PM

BioMoDiFIed

06-06-2008, 11:58 PM

IKER;4325786']Huh.. You comparing the correct bike or not??
then Spec 3 ? Got turbo ?? cause spec 2 got vtec..

LOL, my reaction was like ===> o_O o_O o_O o_O when i saw the reply...

Okie, basically to my understanding, Spec 2 Vtec opens at a different RPM..
I forgot what is the RPM... 6.3k for all gears except 6.8K for the last gear..

Then Spec 1 is 7k or 105KM/hr then vtec opens... basically is 7K for all gears.

:thumb:
Ur correct abt spec 1, vtec opens at 7k on all gears...
But Spec 2 vtec opens at 6.3k for all gears...spec 3 opens at 6.3k for first 5 gears and 6750rpm at 6th gear...

Sensible

07-06-2008, 02:10 AM

My front wheel currently got this squiking sound like something rub against something. I check it bot there is nothing rubbing. I suspect it's the front wheel bearing, coz when I hold my front tyre and move it from side to side I find it loose a bit. Is front bearing the couse of it???

Hee.. used to have this prob on my previous scoot.
Change the front brake pad to a new pair or change to another brand (safest).

Different brands of brake pads might have diff compound which caused it to rub against the brake disc, thus causing the sound. More 'powerful' brand pad have tendency to cause this prob.

For me, i change from the brand and the issue was solved.

Dkoh

07-06-2008, 12:58 PM

this price can buy you a Spec I most of the time.

Pros of Spec I: VTEC, newer model
Cons of spec I: COE due soon in 1 or 2 years

Pros of Ver S: COE renewed
Cons of Ver S: older model, may need to spend more $ to refurbish compared to Spec I

LOL.... i was thinking of buying version S because of the recent fuel price increases.... therefore version S should be more fuel saving the a vtec... but i can't really find a idea version S around west area... mostly all look very old... Just like the component gotta drop off if i going to ride fast... LOL....

Pplater

07-06-2008, 02:04 PM

Different brands of brake pads might have diff compound which caused it to rub against the brake disc, thus causing the sound. More 'powerful' brand pad have tendency to cause this prob.

For me, i change from the brand and the issue was solved.

Brake pads regardless of brand are not supposed to be in contact with the discs, correct me if i'm wrong. Superior brakes are not supposed to have a tendency to rub against the brake disc to cause any sound. All brake pads should have a slight clearance from the discs as prolonged contact will generate heat and braking efficiency will be lost. This is why auto vehicles going downhill sometimes encounter brake wear from excessive use of brakes as engine braking is not an option.

TS' problem is best assesed by a competent mech at a reputable bike shop. We can only speculate if its the discs or bearings. Sometimes my bunch of keys on the ignition place at a certain angle also got squicky sound by flinging around :angel:

PaLmEr

07-06-2008, 02:15 PM

AshBlack

07-06-2008, 06:47 PM

Shadowles

07-06-2008, 06:56 PM

Hi everyone,

I was wondering if the Spec 3 Signal cover (white-original) can be use to replace for Spec 1 Signal cover (orange-original) with out having to change the Black holder... Please advise.

Thanks,
Ash
cannot, both different size.......have to change the whole signal lights....

the spec 3 one is smaller.....

s4vtec

07-06-2008, 07:02 PM

Hi everyone,

I was wondering if the Spec 3 Signal cover (white-original) can be use to replace for Spec 1 Signal cover (orange-original) with out having to change the Black holder... Please advise.

Thanks,
Ash

u might need to do a little wiring configuration cos the bulbs used are different also... :dot:

PaLmEr

07-06-2008, 07:44 PM

[B]IKER

07-06-2008, 08:09 PM

you will need to change the whole assembly.

thats right, and that will set you back $65 for a ONE signal...

rapalla

08-06-2008, 12:39 AM

I ssspect so that it's my bearing. I check my brake pad and it's still in good condition. Coz I change it last 3 month. I open up my brake caliper and clean away all the dirt and dust. But still got squeking sound. Guess it must be the bearing. Thanks anyway guys. appreciate all ya guys.

AshBlack

08-06-2008, 01:18 AM

Hi guys, Thanks for your prompt replies... I guess i have to give up the idea. :cry:

Anyway idea if there is any white spec one signal cover? If yes where can i get it? thanks...

4D~ToTo~Big Sweep

08-06-2008, 05:34 AM

Hi guys, Thanks for your prompt replies... I guess i have to give up the idea. :cry:

Anyway idea if there is any white spec one signal cover? If yes where can i get it? thanks...

Can try LAB :) :) :)

williamleesg

08-06-2008, 01:16 PM

IKER;4331634']thats right, and that will set you back $65 for a ONE signal...
wow,that means it will cost $65 X 4 = $260 to change the whole set of signal lights to spec 3 ones..that's ex..:giddy:

styrx

08-06-2008, 01:49 PM

Anyone can advise me? Cos I DIY and install the filter myself, and I notice that my timing is like abit out and my bike just died at trafiic junction just now.

Ah Pek

08-06-2008, 02:51 PM

Anyone can advise me? Cos I DIY and install the filter myself, and I notice that my timing is like abit out and my bike just died at trafiic junction just now.

Normally carb tunning is done without the airbox on..so that I should not think so that the K&N filter makes the difference. What you can do is to adjust your idling dial for a higher idle rpm.say anything below 1.2Krpn.

joajas

08-06-2008, 03:40 PM

Anyone can advise me? Cos I DIY and install the filter myself, and I notice that my timing is like abit out and my bike just died at trafiic junction just now.

Usually a change from stock air filter to a high flow air filter will require a re-tune of your carb. A high flow air filter will lean out the air to fuel ratio, therefore a need to re-tune the carb for a better air to fuel ratio.

styrx

08-06-2008, 04:52 PM

Anyone can advise me? Cos I DIY and install the filter myself, and I notice that my timing is like abit out and my bike just died at trafiic junction just now.

Thanks for the advice, I think I will tune my carb again, when is the best place o do it? Knt? How much does it cost?

4D~ToTo~Big Sweep

08-06-2008, 05:34 PM

Thanks for the advice, I think I will tune my carb again, when is the best place o do it? Knt? How much does it cost?

JUst tune will cost 40 buckz... service carb 80 buckz :) :) :)

rayhunter

08-06-2008, 05:50 PM

Thanks for the advice, I think I will tune my carb again, when is the best place o do it? Knt? How much does it cost?

servicing + tuning= $60..:thumb:

styrx

08-06-2008, 08:27 PM

My bike died again, while stopping at the traffic light. Went to adjust the idling knob, but whenever I release the trottle, the bike will die no matter how much i adjust the idling. But I still can ride off the bike. However when i drop gear going to a stop, the bike will die again. What should I do< and which way should i adjust the idling? Ever since I install th K&N filter this problem happen. Pls enlighten

styrx

08-06-2008, 09:08 PM

I just change to k&n filter, after moving off when i come to a stop, the bike die. I adjust the idling , but if i release the trottle immediately the bike die. However I can still ride the bike, except when i lower the gear, the bike will die again. I know i need to tune the bike. but what i can do to prevent the bike from dying on the road, so that i can go to the nearest workshop

08-06-2008, 10:29 PM

tuning of your air:fuel ratio?

-hanzo-

09-06-2008, 12:33 AM

hi all... sorry out of topic. but any idea wat the price otr now for spec 3?? any 2nd hand 1?? thanks:cheeky:

PaLmEr

09-06-2008, 01:28 AM

hi all... sorry out of topic. but any idea wat the price otr now for spec 3?? any 2nd hand 1?? thanks:cheeky:

Spec III, i think still a few more available at BP. Most bikeshops have now stock Revos.

Quite a few Spec III on sale in Garage Sales.

MonoWorld

10-06-2008, 03:31 PM

what are the symptoms of front fork needs to be serviced?

Ah Pek

10-06-2008, 03:38 PM

what are the symptoms of front fork needs to be serviced?

When soft and spongy under riding load.

biting_point

10-06-2008, 09:48 PM

what are the symptoms of front fork needs to be serviced?

can be easily pressed, sometimes a "squash" sound may be heard..

longjump

11-06-2008, 05:44 PM

Hi guys.. new s4 rider... was wondering... i was riding early morning.... 4 to 4.5 rpm arnd 70kmh. at 70kmh i changed to last gear when my bike throttle suddenly go empty.... i clutched in and drop gear until stop n neutral. at neutral throttle no feel also. my fuel still at 2 bar. i switched off engine n switched on again. press ignition switch a few times then start n throttle got feel. wat do i need to take note? sori for being long winded

SMR

11-06-2008, 08:14 PM

longjump

12-06-2008, 04:12 PM

hmm maybe.... thanx anyway.... but i'm still worried haha

Winners

12-06-2008, 06:19 PM

wizzy_bradz

12-06-2008, 07:43 PM

bro if u find gd deals pm me lah i also wann start my own renewal start cosmetics first wanns find cheap spec 3 tail fix on my spec 1 and put rear hugger..........hehehe

TitanicLexus

12-06-2008, 10:10 PM

bro if u find gd deals pm me lah i also wann start my own renewal start cosmetics first wanns find cheap spec 3 tail fix on my spec 1 and put rear hugger..........hehehe

bro, i was thinking spec 3 tail too... hahaha... any idea how much huh?

Owen0606

13-06-2008, 12:20 AM

i was thinkin too.. but the forum ppl here who noe how to do is not frenly enuff.. they wont reply 1... any1 got idea wher can fix cheap spec 3 tail?? kindly share your idea..

f.zi

13-06-2008, 12:26 AM

i was thinkin too.. but the forum ppl here who noe how to do is not frenly enuff.. they wont reply 1... any1 got idea wher can fix cheap spec 3 tail?? kindly share your idea..

maybe if u post it at the right section, they will be able to help? i believed u clearly know there's a thread for S4 riders? that would be much more than a help:thumb:

:cheers:

[B]IKER

13-06-2008, 07:58 AM

cheap ah, dunno whats your budget...

but its ard 460-480 for moulded tail without undertray.
inclusive of LED tail light, rear fender.

Its ard 600 if you want everything to be original.
inclusive of everything.

B.e.n.s.o.n

13-06-2008, 08:43 AM

i dun think there's any cheap spec 3 tail ba.... u will have to get it mould to fit in.... it a kinda expensive cosmetic mod.... its very stylo (as seen above) but..... pocket might hurts for some coz its onli the outlook... original tailboard oso can sit right? haha.... IMO... might as well get a spec 3 in the first place....

TS: U might wanna ask [b]iker for all ur mods... he had wat u want....

TitanicLexus

13-06-2008, 11:28 AM

B.e.n.s.o.n

13-06-2008, 12:03 PM

haha... ya la... own preference most important.... dun think illegal..

[B]IKER

13-06-2008, 04:41 PM

Thank bro for moving my post to the correct section....:cheers:

Actually, for me.... i was tinking to renew and start cosmetics my S4 instead of changing, because the engine still in good condition. Why i tink to spend $$$ for modify instead of getting a new vtec3? Coz of $$$ too..:dozed: If i change from my s4 to vtec3, i tink estimated have to put in additional 5-6k, since my s4 value now only ard 3k plus.... Let say i spend 1k plus to renew and cosmetics my s4, i can enjoy the same outlook as vtec3 and total i can save of 4-5k.. correct?:cheeky: :cheeky:

I believe for those who interested to modify their S4, oso have the same mind of me... :cheer: :cheer:
Btw, modify of vtec3 tail, is legal?

calculation can be both right and wrong...
unless your bike is in an excellent condition, spending 4-5k for a new tech bike + most prob, not so much maintainance problems....

alittle here and a little there for maintainance adds up to alot of $$....

regards to the spec 3 tail, according to fellow bikers who also have done the mod, they seem to pass the inspection with flying colours... LOL

fi_east

13-06-2008, 05:16 PM

go to s4 bike forum... they state that can get ard 200 to mod the tail to spec3 type, i was thinking of changing to it too if its only 200

[B]IKER

13-06-2008, 05:17 PM

go to s4 bike forum... they state that can get ard 200 to mod the tail to spec3 type, i was thinking of changing to it too if its only 200

The link pls....

wizzy_bradz

13-06-2008, 05:22 PM

bros this afternoon got like shock coz my front brakes like jam on the disc brakes
can move but create so much friction i go and touch the disc kena burnt my finger is it becoz of the brake pads botak already or something else pls help juz took out my spec 1 last week.......

X-ilED

13-06-2008, 05:28 PM

Hi there, i can convert your s4 into a cafe racer or streetfighter if u are interested. u can see my works in cruiser section - "RIOT's Den". i do mainly cruisers, but cafe racers and streetfighters also make me drool.. haha..

if u are thinking of modding.. my opinion is to truely mod it into something different..

TitanicLexus

13-06-2008, 05:36 PM

go to s4 bike forum... they state that can get ard 200 to mod the tail to spec3 type, i was thinking of changing to it too if its only 200

IKER;4353047']The link pls....

YES.... link pls.... 200 buck only.. super interested.... :thirsty:

Darkness19

13-06-2008, 05:38 PM

go to s4 bike forum... they state that can get ard 200 to mod the tail to spec3 type, i was thinking of changing to it too if its only 200

sure or nt??$200??can show me the link

Chal V-Tec

13-06-2008, 08:41 PM

sure or nt??$200??can show me the link

yah ar bro...any specific links.....?
cos iam sure all the riders are curious abt the good deal...

cheers..!

biting_point

13-06-2008, 09:30 PM

TitanicLexus

13-06-2008, 11:11 PM

I went for motorworld today, they quote me the price for modify spec3 tail is $400 and $450 two diff price. The different is $400 one is same pattern as spec3 tail, $450 one will be different for the number plate part there, look more nicer than original.

Beside this one, they quote me the price for respray and change those old items and add something. The price they quoted depend of my request such as new signal light, respray all the cover part, respray rim, respray belly, new fairing, respray box, respray some engine part n polish other old item etc total ard $650...

I still consider for my renewal and respray project, total cost ard $1,200, time taken around two week time, make it totally diff.....wooo...:lovestruck:

LAZIAF85

13-06-2008, 11:50 PM

a question to ask...

can a version s rear hugger able to fit on s4 spec II?? pls help...

Owen0606

14-06-2008, 12:22 AM

$200 woah!! cheap cheap... wat i heard is $400 to $500. hmmmm... any1 might help??

wizzy_bradz

14-06-2008, 07:33 AM

a question to ask...

can a version s rear hugger able to fit on s4 spec II?? pls help...

nope ask shop before.........

deviLLian

14-06-2008, 01:22 PM

IKER;4351472']cheap ah, dunno whats your budget...

but its ard 460-480 for moulded tail without undertray.
inclusive of LED tail light, rear fender.

Its ard 600 if you want everything to be original.
inclusive of everything.

gulpz..600? :faint: might as well get a yoshi rite.. add 30 more can get full rainbow :angel:

PaLmEr

14-06-2008, 04:23 PM

s4vtec

14-06-2008, 04:31 PM

Ah Pek

15-06-2008, 03:45 AM

This post and a few others to follow will provide an easy reference-guide to the more common faults that are likely to afflict your bike.

Problem with your bike are almost limitless and to try and cover all eventualities would require a book. But what you gonna see here down the line are just about every books for a mototiam mechanic to know would be covered..well..the least said..hopefully...LOL!

Successful troubleshooting is not that difficult but with some knowledge combined with a systematic and logical approach, it can be a routine thingy after awhile.

To start off right, the first approach is by accurately identifying the symptom and then checking through the list of possible causes, starting with the simplest or most obvious and progressing in stages to the most complex...however one has to apply liberal quantities of common sense.

What you gonna read in the next post is the main symptom of a fault given as the major heading followed below by a list... the various systems or areas which may contain the fault. Possible cause for a fault and recommended remedial to be taken are given in brief below each heading.

Ok..without further ado..let us have the first installment in..:)

Please note that all that you are about to read are abstract from books articles written by professional mechanics. Any injury/injuries caused by DIY base on what you read here is not the responsibility of the poster here..these are purely for knowledge and "know-how..know-what" and always recommended to be carried out by an experience mechanic. Otherwise, if you are capable..its all at your own risk.

Ah Pek

15-06-2008, 04:37 AM

1 Engine doesn't start or is difficult to start

Starter motor doesn't rotate

1) Engine kill switch OFF.

2) Fuse blown. Check main fuse.

3) Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery.

4) Starter motor defective. Make sure the wiring to the starter is secure.
Make sure the starter relay clicks when the start button is pushed. If the
relay clicks, then the fault is in the wiring or motor.

5) Starter relay faulty.

6) Starter switch not contacting. The contacts could be wet, corroded or
dirty. Disassemble and clean the switch.

7) Wiring open or shorted. Check all wiring connections and harnesses to
make sure that they are dry, tight and not corroded. Also check for
broken or frayed wires that can cause a short to earth.

8) Ignition (main) switch defective. Renew the switch if it is defective.

9) Engine kill switch defective. Check for wet, dirty or corroded
contacts.

10) Faulty neutral, sidestand or clutch switch. Check the wiring to each
switch and the switch itself accordingly.

Starter motor rotates but engine does not turn over

1) Starter motor clutch defective. Inspect and repair or renew

2) Damaged idler or starter gears. Inspect and renew the damaged
parts.

Starter works but engine won't turn over (seized)

1) Seized engine caused by one or more internally damaged components.

Failure due to wear, abuse or lack of lubrication. Damage can include
seized valves, followers, camshafts, pistons, crankshaft, connecting rod
bearings, or transmission gears or bearings.

No fuel flow

1) No fuel in tank.

2) Fuel tank breather nose obstructed.

3) Fuel tap filter or in-line filter clogged. Remove the tap and clean it and the
filters.

4) Fuel line clogged. Pull the fuel line loose and carefully blow through it.

5) Float needle valve clogged. For all of the valves to be clogged, either a
very bad batch of fuel with an unusual additive has been used, or some
other foreign material has entered the tank. Many times after a machine
has been stored for many months without running, the fuel turns to a
varnish-like liquid and forms deposits on the inlet needle valves and jets.

The carburettors should be removed and overhauled if draining the float
chambers doesn't solve the problem.

Engine flooded

1) Float height too high.

2) Float needle valve worn or stuck open. A piece of dirt, rust or other debris
can cause the valve to seat improperly, causing excess fuel to be
admitted to the float chamber. In this case, the float chamber should be
cleaned and the needle valve and seat inspected. If the needle and seat
are worn, then the leaking will persist and the parts should be renewed

3) Starting technique incorrect. Under normal circumstances (ie, if all the
carburettor functions are sound) the machine should start with little or no
throttle. When the engine is cold, the choke should be operated and the
engine started without opening the throttle.

When the engine is at operating temperature, only a very slight amount of
throttle should be necessary. If the engine is flooded, turn the fuel tap
OFF and hold the throttle open while cranking the engine. This will allow
additional air to reach the cylinders. Remember to turn the fuel tap back
ON after the engine starts.

....to be continued :cheer:

Ah Pek

15-06-2008, 12:53 PM

No spark or weak spark

1) Ignition switch OFF. Engine kill switch turned to the OFF position
Battery voltage low. Check and recharge the battery as necessary
Spark plugs dirty, defective or worn out. Locate reason for fouled plugs
using spark plug condition chart at the end of this manual and follow the
plug maintenance procedures.

2) Spark plug caps or secondary (HT) wiring faulty. Check condition. Renew
if cracks or deterioration are evident.

3) Spark plug caps not making good contact. Make sure that the plug
caps fit snugly over the plug ends.

4) Ignition control unit defective.

5) Pulse generator coil(s) defective.

6) Ignition HT coils defective.

Ignition or kill switch shorted. This is usually caused by water, corrosion,
damage or excessive wear. The switches can be disassembled and cleaned
with electrical contact cleaner. If cleaning does not help, renew the
switches.

Wiring shorted or broken between:

1) Ignition (main) switch and engine kill switch (or blown fuse)
2) Ignition control unit and engine kill switch
3) Ignition control unit and ignition HT coils
4) Ignition HT coils and spark plugs
5) Ignition control unit and pulse generator□ Make sure that all wiring
connections are clean, dry and tight. Look for chafed and broken
wires.

Compression low

1) Spark plugs loose. Remove the plugs and inspect their threads. Reinstall
and tighten securely.

2) Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down. If the cylinder head is
suspected of being loose, then there's a chance that the gasket or head
is damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of time. The head
nuts should be tightened to the proper torque in the correct sequence.

Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve is not closing
completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve. Check and
adjust the valve clearances.

Cylinder and/or piston worn. Excessive wear will cause compression
pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually accompanied by worn rings
as well. A top-end overhaul is necessary.

3) Piston rings worn, weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking piston rings
usually indicate a lubrication or carburation problem that causes excess
carbon deposits or seizures to form on the pistons and rings. Top-end
overhaul Is necessary.

Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused by excessive
wear of the piston ring lands. Piston renewal is necessary.

Cylinder head gasket damaged, If a head is allowed to become loose, or if
excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and combustion chamber
causes extremely high compression, the head gasket may leak. Retorquing
the head is not always sufficient to restore the seal, so gasket renewal is
necessary.

Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or improperly
tightened head nuts. Machine shop resurfacing or head renewal is
necessary.

...to be continued :cheer:

[B]IKER

15-06-2008, 01:33 PM

gulpz..600? :faint: might as well get a yoshi rite.. add 30 more can get full rainbow :angel:

already have the full rainbow...:sweat:

Ah Pek

15-06-2008, 10:24 PM

1 Engine doesn't start or is difficult to start

Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or wear; the springs must be renewed.

Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from over-revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat (improper carburation) or an accumulation of carbon deposits on the seat (from carburation or lubrication problems).

The valves must be cleaned and/or renewed and the seats serviced if possible.

Stalls after starting

1) Improper choke action. Make sure the choke linkage shaft is getting a full
stroke and staying in the out position.

2) Ignition malfunction.

3) Fuel contaminated. The fuel can be contaminated with either dirt or water,
or can change chemically if the machine is allowed to sit for several
months or more. Drain the tank and float chambers.

to be continued...:cheer:

smiley73

15-06-2008, 11:09 PM

:thumb: lah .........

Ah Pek

15-06-2008, 11:46 PM

:thumb: lah .........

:D ...hope its real useful...btw...help rate this thread leh :angel:

I_Ride_A_Bike

15-06-2008, 11:59 PM

good man.. maybe next time free will post some write-ups from "cycle world" or "two wheels"... save people the $ from buying..

=]

4D~ToTo~Big Sweep

16-06-2008, 12:00 AM

:D ...hope its real useful...btw...help rate this thread leh :angel:

how 2 help 2 rate>??? :confused: :confused: :confused:

joajas

16-06-2008, 12:04 AM

how 2 help 2 rate>??? :confused: :confused: :confused:

Bro, scroll up to the top of the thread and look for "Rating". Click on it to rate.

edition

16-06-2008, 12:19 AM

hehe my advice to all wat ah pek type here save a soft copy so tt u can use it as a reference instead having to come sbf to get the info .. some pple may feel wat he stated untrue but still no harm to keep it as a reference as you might wrong ...

:thumb: for ah pek work ..

4D~ToTo~Big Sweep

16-06-2008, 12:24 AM

Ah Pek

16-06-2008, 04:09 AM

Continue...

2 Poor running at low speeds

Spark weak

Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery. Spark plugs fouled, defective or worn out. Refer to Chapter 1 for spark plug maintenance.

1) Spark plug cap or HT wiring defective.

2) Spark plug caps not making contact.

3) Incorrect spark plugs. Wrong type, heat range or cap configuration.

4) Ignition control unit defective.

5) Pulse generator defective.

6) Ignition HT coils defective.

Fuel/air mixture incorrect

1) Pilot screws out of adjustment.

Pilot jet or air passage clogged. Remove and overhaul the carburettors.

Air bleed holes clogged. Remove carburettor and blow out all passages.

Air filter clogged, poorly sealed or missing.

Air filter housing poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose clamps and
renew or repair defective parts.

2) Fuel level too high or too low. Check the float height.

3) Fuel tank breather hose obstructed.

4) Carburettor inlet manifolds loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears
or loose clamps. Renew the rubber inlet manifold joints if split or
perished.

Compression low

1) Spark plugs loose. Remove the plugs and inspect their threads.
Reinstall and tighten securely.

2) Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down. If the cylinder head is
suspected of being loose, then there's a chance that the gasket and head
are damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of time. The head
nuts should be tightened to the proper torque in the correct sequence.

Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve is not closing
completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve. Check and
adjust the valve clearances.

3) Cylinder and/or piston worn. Excessive wear Will cause compression
pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually accompanied by worn rings
as well. A top-end overhaul Is necessary.

Piston rings worn, weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking piston
rings usually indicate a lubrication or carburation problem that causes
excess carbon deposits or seizures to form on the pistons and rings.
Top-end overhaul is necessary.

Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused by excessive
wear of the piston ring lands. Piston renewal is necessary.

Cylinder head gasket damaged. If a head is allowed to become loose, or if
excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and combustion chamber
causes extremely nigh compression, the head gasket may leak. Retorquing
the head is not always sufficient tn restore the seal, so gasket renewal is
necessary.

Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or improperly
tightened head nuts. Machine shop resurfacing or head renewal is
necessary.

Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or wear; the
springs must be renewed.

Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from over-
revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat (improper
carburation) or an accumulation of carbon deposits on the seat (from
carburation, lubrication problems). The valves must be cleaned and/or
renewed and the seats serviced if possible.

Poor acceleration

1) Carburettors leaking or dirty. Overhaul the carburettors.

2) Timing not advancing. The pulse generator or the ignition control module
may be defective. If so, they must be renewed, as they can't be repaired.

3) Carburettors not synchronised. Adjust then with a vacuum gauge set or
manometer.

4) Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than that recommended
can damage the oil pump or lubrication system and cause drag on the
engine.

5) Brakes dragging. Usually caused by debris which has entered the brake
piston seals, or from a warped disc or bent axle. Repair as necessary.

to be continued....:cheer:

inspire85

16-06-2008, 04:24 AM

Upz for u ah pek! But some of the info too chim or can't diy one.. :sweat:

Ah Pek

16-06-2008, 04:33 AM

continue...

3 Poor running or no power at high speed.

Firing incorrect

Air filter restricted. Clean or renew filter.

Spark plugs fouled, defective or worn out.

Spark plug caps or HT wiring defective.

Spark plug caps not in good contact.

Incorrect spark plugs. Wrong type, heat range or cap configuration.

Ignition control unit defective.

Ignition HT coils defective.

Fuel/air mixture incorrect

Main jet clogged. Dirt, water or other contaminants can clog the main jets. Clean the fuel tap filter, the in-line filter, the float chamber area, and the jets and carburettor orifices.

Main jet wrong size. Th9 standard jetting is for sea level atmospheric pressure and oxygen content.

Air bleed holes clogged. Remove and overhaul carburettors.

Air filter clogged, poorly sealed, or missing.

Air filter housing poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose clamps, and renew defective parts.

Fuel level too high or too low. Check the float height.

Fuel tank breather hose obstructed.

Carburettor inlet manifolds loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears or loose clamps. Renew the rubber inlet manifolds if they are split or perished.

Compression low

Spark plugs loose. Remove the plugs and inspect their threads. Reinstall and tighten securely.

Cylinder head not sufficienty tightened down. If the cylinder head is suspected of being loose, then there's a chance that the gasket and head
are damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of time. The head nuts should be tightened to the proper torque in
the correct sequence.

Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve is not closing completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve. Check and adjust the valve clearances.

Cylinder and/or piston *vorn. Excessive wear will cause compression pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually accompanied by worn rings as well. A top-end overhaul Is necessary.

Piston rings worn, weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking piston rings usually indicate a lubrication or carburation problem that causes excess carbon deposits or seizures to form on the pistons and rings. Top-end overhaul is necessary.

Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused by excessive wear of the piston ring lands. Piston renewal is necessary.

Cylinder head gasket damaged. If a head is allowed to become
loose, or if excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and
combustion chamber causes extremely high compression, the
head gasket may leak. Retorqulng the head is not always sufficient
to restore the seal, so gasket renewal is necessary.

Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or improperly tightened head nuts. Machine shop resurfacing or head renewal is necessary.

Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or wear; the springs must be renewed.

Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from
over-revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat
(improper carburation) or an accumulation of carbon deposits on
the seat (from carburation or lubrication problems). The valves
must be cleaned and/or renewed and the seats serviced if possible.

Knocking or pinking

Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. Use of a fuel additive
that will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the
crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the build-up.
Otherwise, the cylinder head will have to be removed and
decarbonised.

Incorrect or poor quality fuel. Old or improper grades of fuel can cause detonation. This causes the piston to rattle, thus the knocking or pinking sound. Drain old fuel and always use the recommended fuel grade.

Spark plug heat range incorrect. Uncontrolled detonation indicates the plug heat range is too hot. The plug in effect becomes a glow plug, raising cylinder temperatures. Install the proper heat range plug.

Improper air/fuel mixture. This will cause the cylinders to run hot, which leads to detonation. Clogged jets or an air leak can cause this imbalance.

Miscellaneous causes

Throttle valve doesn't open fully. Adjust the throttle grip freeplay.

Clutch slipping. May be caused by loose or worn clutch components.

Timing not advancing.

Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than the one recommended in can damage the oil pump or lubrication system and cause drag on the engine.

Brakes dragging. Usually caused by debris which has entered the brake piston seals, or from a warped disc or bent axle. Repair as necessary.

...to be continued :cheer:

ops-fd

16-06-2008, 08:56 AM

thumbs upzzzz

Dkoh

16-06-2008, 11:30 AM

Ah Pek

16-06-2008, 12:06 PM

This is a good thread, excellent rate for u ah pek...

With this thread at least before going to the motordiam, can do some troubleshooting first... Or else if go straight there, the technician say until your bike can throw away liao, u LL also have to take it...

THUMBS UP!!!

"Or else if go straight there, the technician say until your bike can throw away liao, u LL also have to take it..."

LOL!...that's very true indeed lah that's why I tot this would serve our SS4 (Sotong Super 4) newer riders well. At least you guys can be constructively be defensive when a mech gets to rubbishly techkie!:angel:

Thanks for the vote of confidence and the others that voted too..I see stars now!:cheer:

[B]IKER

16-06-2008, 12:10 PM

:thumb: :thumb:

Great Job ah pek ......:cheer: :cheer:

Ah Pek

16-06-2008, 01:29 PM

IKER;4361415']:thumb: :thumb:

Great Job ah pek ......:cheer: :cheer:

:D ..enjoy it with your :popcorn: :)

loufu

16-06-2008, 03:05 PM

Ah Pek

16-06-2008, 03:19 PM

can some1 link the post together, i mean 1 after another at least... not seperated by those feedbacks... it would b easier to read... coz now like read abit then next post is thumbs up, upz for u & etc.... abit distracting.. :p..

ah pek, mayb next time u reserved a few post then can edit in those infos later on... juz my 2cents sugesstion... :angel:

LOL!...I knew this gonna happened but not much I can do leh. :giddy: May be the mod can do some wonders here to line them out in order..errr...somehow.

In the meantime..will try your suggestion. Anyway..what best you can do is snipped the text from the post you need and paste it on your doc for reference need..that's while edition is doing.

melvintay

16-06-2008, 08:47 PM

Ah Pek

16-06-2008, 09:43 PM

Hi guys, I'm a new rider of Spec 1. I got a few qns, pardon me if these are noob qns...

Q1. How do I know if my bike has hit reserve and how long more can I ride when this happens?

Q2. My side stand seems so low that the bike tilts a lot, more than the normal Super 4s I've seen, is there a way to adjust myself? If adjust it at bikeshop, how much estimated?

Q3. At N-gear and my clutch is fully realeased, I hear some noise, not sure if it's caused by the clucth plates, it's like some rubbing noise in the engine. Anyone knows what's the prob?

Q4. Just bought a 1-way alarm from the CMO, anyone know's how to fix or recommend any cheap place to fix?

Thanks in advace for any advice. quite new to CB400, appreciate any guidances.

What S4 is that anyway and how old? My answers are only genenic.

1. Your reserve tank carries about 3 litre. If your comsumption is about say 19km/litre...3x19= 57km. when you hit reserve..normally about 230km to 320km..your bike starts to jerk as if starving off from fuel feed...eventually engine will cease.

2. Like Jade on the open market...no fixed market value..you like it...you pay for what is demand. If you wanna DIY..take it off..one end clamp to a vice and the other end..use a solid metal hollow pipe to slot into the other end till the point you wanna bend off a little to straighten it.

3. Insufficient engine oil or low in vicosity...but likely clutch housing problem if its coming from gear box clutch side. If engine..may be..say may be..psiton ring loose liao.

4. Should have asked the ppl you bought from to do it or recommend you at least...again...any $$s!..you like you pay. :cool:

melvintay

16-06-2008, 09:52 PM

What S4 is that anyway and how old? My answers are only genenic.

1. Your reserve tank carries about 3 litre. If your comsumption is about say 19km/litre...3x19= 57km. when you hit reserve..normally about 230km to 320km..your bike starts to jerk as if starving off from fuel feed...eventually engine will cease.

2. Like Jade on the open market...no fixed market value..you like it...you pay for what is demand. If you wanna DIY..take it off..one end clamp to a vice and the other end..use a solid metal hollow pipe to slot into the other end till the point you wanna bend off a little to straighten it.

3. Insufficient engine oil or low in vicosity...but likely clutch housing problem if its coming from gear box clutch side. If engine..may be..say may be..psiton ring loose liao.

4. Should have asked the ppl you bought from to do it or recommend you at least...again...any $$s!..you like you pay. :cool:

thanks for ur reply. my S4 is a FT plate Vtec1.

Vtec 1 uses an electronic fuel gauge. Is there a fuel knob like normal bikes to switch from main fuel tank to reserve? if not, what's the indication on the electronic meter when it has hit reserve?

Ah Pek

16-06-2008, 09:59 PM

thanks for ur reply. my S4 is a FT plate Vtec1.

Vtec 1 uses an electronic fuel gauge. Is there a fuel knob like normal bikes to switch from main fuel tank to reserve? if not, what's the indication on the electronic meter when it has hit reserve?

Sorry..need those of similar S4 type to answer this..know they do not need a switch. Fuel gauge are the same as non-vtec..I think.

NewUrbanMale_LSM

16-06-2008, 11:42 PM

Hi Super4 riders, i'm currently a NSR150 SP rider. I'm planning to upgrade to Super4 in 2 months time. But i've got a few questions to consult the people here. Spare me 5minutes? Here goes.........

1. How much is the machine price of a brand new Super4?

2. Which insurance company did you guys buy the insurance for your S4?

3. Which category of insurance is more suitable for a bike like S4? 3rd party? 2nd? 1st?

4. Full tank how many litres? Main tank how much? Reserve how much?

5. Average riding style, changing gear at 4000rpm, fully stock. 1 litre can go how many clicks?

6. What is the latest Spec?

Thanks all!

Ah Pek

16-06-2008, 11:43 PM

continue...

4 Overheating

Engine overheats

1) Coolant level low. Check and add coolant.

2) Leak In cooling system. Check cooling system hoses and radiator for leaks
and other damage. Repair or renew parts as necessary.

3) Thermostat sticking open or closed. Check.

4) Faulty radiator cap. Remove the cap and have it pressure tested.

5) Coolant passages clogged. Drain and flush the entire system, then refill
with fresh coolant.

6) Water pump defective. Remove the pump and check the components.

7) Clogged radiator fins. Clean them by blowing compressed air through the
fins from the backside.

8) Cooling fan or fan switch faulty.

Firing incorrect

1) Spark plugs fouled, defective or worn out.

2) Incorrect spark plugs.

3) Ignition control unit defective.

4) Faulty ignition HT coils.

Fuel/air mixture incorrect

1) Main jet clogged. Dirt, water and other contaminants can clog the main
jets. Clean the fuel tap filter, the fuel pump in-line filter, the float chamber
area and the jets and carburettor orifices.

2) Main jet wrong size. The standard jetting is for sea level atmospheric
pressure and oxygen content.

3) Air filter clogged, poorly sealed or missing.

4) Air filter housing poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose clamps and
renew or repair.

5) Fuel level too low.

6) Fuel tank breather hose obstructed.

7) Carburettor inlet manifolds loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears or loose
clamps. Renew the rubber inlet manifold joints if split or perished.

...to be continued :cheer:

Ah Pek

17-06-2008, 12:02 AM

1. How much is the machine price of a brand new Super4?

Which model? Revo is approx $14K...Spec 3 is 13K.

2. Which insurance company did you guys buy the insurance for your S4?

Depend on you..NTUC sue not to take in but now yes..and Mitshu (sp?)

3. Which category of insurance is more suitable for a bike like S4? 3rd party? 2nd? 1st?

1st party Comprehensive recommended for new bike unless you gots $s...buy cash on bike and pay cheap cheap for 3rd party..but kenna stolen become Lan_Lan!...and if accident your fault..have to pay your own damages until arsehole Koyak! Go figure mannn!

4. Full tank how many litres? Main tank how much? Reserve how much?

18 litres full tank...main tank 15litre...reserve?...do your maths.

5. Average riding style, changing gear at 4000rpm, fully stock. 1 litre can go how many clicks?

No fix rule..ride like that oso no use..such the forum...toms of answers as to why. All I can say here is ride the way you find most comfortable with and whatever..and be adopt defensive riding if you need to speed occassionaly.

6. What is the latest Spec?

No more call "Spec"..its "REVO" with ECU.

Marcheline

17-06-2008, 12:12 AM

Ah Pek

17-06-2008, 12:23 AM

Wah Ah Pek, it wont be surprising if you are able to strip the S4 down to the last component and put it back together again without the manual! :thumb:

Great trouble-shooting tips from a very helpful S4 lao jiao!

LOL!...no lah. There are three types of bike enthusiast...

1) that reads a lot and are knowledgeable theorist - idealist

2) that has all the tools and hands-on exprience - mechanic

3) and a bit of both 1 & 2 - adviser

Me?...a typist who like to type what you all like to know about your bike and problems that comes what may :angel:

Enjoy ur read for knowledge of bike trouble-shoot-ing!

wubefrub

17-06-2008, 06:49 PM

Ah Pek

17-06-2008, 06:53 PM

....continue from No.4 "Overheating"

Compression too high

Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. Use of a fuel additive that will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the piston crown and chamber Is the easiest way to remove the buildup. Otherwise, the cylinder head will have to be removed and decarbonised.

Improperly machined head surface or installation of incorrect gasket during engine assembly.:cheer:

Engine load excessive

1) Clutch slipping. Can be caused by damaged, loose or worn clutch
components. Refer to Chapter 2 for overhaul procedures.

2) Engine oil level too high. The addition of too much oil will cause
pressurisation of the crankcase and inefficient engine operation. Check
Specifications and drain to proper level.

3) Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than the one
recommended can damage the oil pump or lubrication system as well as
cause drag on the engine.

4) Brakes dragging. Usually caused by debris which has entered the brake
piston seals, or from a warped disc or bent axle. Repair as necessary.

Lubrication inadequate

1) Engine oil level too low. Friction caused by intermittent lack of lubrication
or from oil that is overworked can cause overheating. The oil provides a
definite cooling function in the engine. Check the oil level frequently
whenever you can on pre-ride.

2) Poor quality engine oil or incorrect viscosity or type. Oil is rated not only
according to viscosity but also according to type. Some oils are not rated
high enough for use in this engine. Refer to Chapter 1 Specifications and
change to the correct of.

Miscellaneous causes

Modification to exhaust system. Most aftermarket exhaust systems cause the engine to run leaner, which make them run hotter. When installing an accessory exhaust system, always rejet the carburettors.

To be continued...

Ah Pek

17-06-2008, 07:17 PM

5) Clutch problems

Clutch slipping

1) Insufficient clutch cable freeplay. Check and adjust.

2) Friction plates worn or warped. Overhaul the clutch assembly.

3) Plain plates warped.

4) Clutch springs broken or weak. Old or heat-damaged (from slipping clutch)
springs should be renewed.

5) Clutch release mechanism defective. Renew any defective parts.

6) Clutch centre or housing unevenly worn. This causes improper engagement
of the plates. Renew the damaged or worn parts.

Clutch not disengaging completely

1) Excessive clutch cable freeplay. Check and adjust.

2) Clutch plates warped or damaged. This will cause clutch
drag, which in turn will cause the machine to creep.
Overhaul the clutch assembly.

3) Clutch spring tension uneven. Usually caused by a sagged
or broken spring. Check and renew the springs as a set.

4) Engine oil deteriorated. Old, thin, worn out oil will not
provide proper lubrication for the plates, causing the clutch
to drag. Renew the oil and filter.

5) Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than
recommended can cause the plates to stick
together, putting a drag on the engine. Change to the
correct weight oil.

6) Clutch housing bush seized on mainshaft. Lack of
lubrication, severe wear or damage can cause the guide to
seize on the shaft. Overhaul of the clutch, and perhaps
transmission, may be necessary to repair the damage.

7) Clutch release mechanism defective. Overhaul the clutch
cover components.

8) Loose clutch centre nut. Causes housing and centre
misalignment putting a drag on the engine. Engagement
adjustment continually varies. Overhaul the clutch
assembly.

..to be continued :cheer:

I_Ride_A_Bike

17-06-2008, 07:39 PM

wah like this, no need to go motodiam already in the future. any problem, i bring my bike to teckghee find you.

thanks pek!

btw, i think am the 4th kind of bike enthusiast:

that reads and reads but still dun understand - lost

haha..

ah pek is i guess the 1st kind of bike enthusiast..
-type type answer answer!!

way2go la wills... keep an open view man..

Hondaman

17-06-2008, 08:36 PM

Good Info. Keep it up ah pek!

F|rdAuZ

17-06-2008, 08:40 PM

can PM me how much to do replace fork seal all..cos mines leaking. only one side is leaking

NewUrbanMale_LSM

17-06-2008, 08:45 PM

Is there any offical Honda website to see the specifications of the bike?

smiley73

17-06-2008, 11:04 PM

upz the rate ....:angel:

etnies85

18-06-2008, 02:17 AM

Ah Pek

18-06-2008, 02:36 AM

:dot: hi i am still newbie ,just bought spec3 5mth ago 2nd hand ,when i start my bike sometimes my headlight didn't turn on but the rear light is on,so i play with the on..off switch a few times then ok,the headlight is on.....my question is the problem came from the battery should i change it?or the light bulb,or any wiring problem pls help.... n how i want to know is the battery is weak???PLS HELP:dot:

Take off your headlamp and check see the socket for your H4 bulb has partially melted. You may oso want to spray WD40 or use electronic contact cleaner to clean the switch.

To verified if your battery is ok..you need a voltage multimeter to measure across the terminal..make sure the set the meter to DC reading correctly and itn its range,,should read at least 12vdc..lowest 11.8vdc. the other thing is that you can check the rectifier output and see the charging voltage is correct at 13.8vdc. May be, can do it in a Mototiam..they may charge you for testing.

PaLmEr

18-06-2008, 02:37 AM

i was thinkin too.. but the forum ppl here who noe how to do is not frenly enuff.. they wont reply 1... any1 got idea wher can fix cheap spec 3 tail?? kindly share your idea..

the forumers are friendly most of the time, but they may not be able to spend so much time to answer questions and not to mention spend time and energy to help others to fix up things. Remember, many of them hold full time jobs or studies and are not charging a fee (or maybe for kopi).

BioMoDiFIed

18-06-2008, 06:41 AM

bros...i'm looking for a projector headlight for my s4...does anione noes where i cud get them? even if its only the lens it wud be ok...

etnies85

18-06-2008, 09:21 AM

thank you i will try later

@swat_

18-06-2008, 03:27 PM

fuel gauge meter acting weird, pump full oso will missing one bar...

meter spoil? or fuel floater prob?

Winners

18-06-2008, 06:37 PM

Ah Pek, can put your name (Erm... your photo also?) in Wikipedia already:
Ah Pek - the practical and theoretical aspects of DIY motorcycle servicing......:thumb:

PaLmEr

18-06-2008, 09:24 PM

bros...i'm looking for a projector headlight for my s4...does anione noes where i cud get them? even if its only the lens it wud be ok...

i have a pair at home, thinking of putting on my S4 but have no idea where to put it!

edition

18-06-2008, 10:04 PM

haha ya lor .. den can write how the word ah pek is form to help the sbf

Ah Pek

18-06-2008, 10:46 PM

Ah Pek, can put your name (Erm... your photo also?) in Wikipedia already:
Ah Pek - the practical and theoretical aspects of DIY motorcycle servicing......:thumb:

LOL!..think so?...afterward the publisher say..can you demostrate..like that..:faint: liao...tools oso don't have :cry:

Ah Pek

18-06-2008, 11:11 PM

Continue...

Gearchanging problems

Doesn't go into gear or lever doesn't return

1) Clutch not disengaging.

2) Selector fork bent or seized. Often caused by dropping the machine or
from lack of lubrication. Overhaul the transmission.

3) Gear(s) stuck on shaft. Most often caused by a lack of lubrication or
excessive wear in transmission bearings and bushes. Overhaul the
transmission.

4) Selector drum binding. Caused by lubrication failure or excessive wear.
Renew the drum and bearing.

5) Gearchange lever return spring weak or broken.

6) Gearchange lever broken. Splines stripped out of lever or shaft.
caused by allowing the lever to get loose or from dropping the
machine. Renew necessary parts.

7) Gearchange mechanism stopper arm broken or worn. Full engagement and
rotary movement of selector drum results. Renew the arm.

8) Stopper arm spring broken. Allows arm to float, causing sporadic
selector operation. Renew the spring.

Jumps out of gear

1) Selector fork(s) worn. Overhaul the transmission.

2) Gear groove(s) worn. Overhaul the transmission.

3) Gear dogs or dog slots worn or damaged. The gears should be inspected
and renewed. No attempt should be made to service the worn parts.

Overselects

1) Stopper arm spring weak or broken.

2) Gearchange shaft return spring post broken or distorted.

...to be continued :cheer:

edition

19-06-2008, 12:01 AM

:cheer: :cheer: :cheer: :cheer: :cheer: :cheer: :cheer: :cheer: :cheer: :cheer: :cheer: uppzzz for ah pek ..

BioMoDiFIed

19-06-2008, 01:11 AM

wud u mind posting the pic? how much if ur willing to sell?

NewUrbanMale_LSM

19-06-2008, 01:31 AM

Is there any offical Honda website to see the specifications of the bike?

dumbnut

19-06-2008, 01:37 AM

i have a pair at home, thinking of putting on my S4 but have no idea where to put it!

Crash bar? Seen it mounted before on a Ver R at singpost. Well technically not projector lamps, but mini spotlights that can be seen on cars.

ZzGaNgStErzZ

19-06-2008, 03:42 AM

the forumers are friendly most of the time, but they may not be able to spend so much time to answer questions and not to mention spend time and energy to help others to fix up things. Remember, many of them hold full time jobs or studies and are not charging a fee (or maybe for kopi).

duh, why the need to reply him?
he himself already said not friendly le, but still wan ask. wanna test water see got ppl here into reverse phsycology meh :dot:

PaLmEr

19-06-2008, 03:50 AM

Crash bar? Seen it mounted before on a Ver R at singpost. Well technically not projector lamps, but mini spotlights that can be seen on cars.

was actually thinking of using it to replace my Spec III headlamps, then use the low beam as a HID projector.

BioMoDiFIed

19-06-2008, 06:40 AM

was actually thinking of using it to replace my Spec III headlamps, then use the low beam as a HID projector.

I was thinking of that too, but with all the modding involved on the ori headlight, my heart somehow felt un easy...so i'm thinking of buyin the alien headlight and installing it there...halogen plus projector lens, confirm :giddy:

@swat_

19-06-2008, 08:55 AM

fuel gauge meter acting weird, pump full oso will missing one bar...

meter spoil? or fuel floater prob?

no answers?? sad sia hahah

nando

19-06-2008, 10:02 AM

haloo!!
im goin bkk early july..
anyone noe where i can find a honda bike shop? i mean those tat specialize in super 4 parts..
cos my cdi is spoilt, was pondering whether there mite be one in bkk..
thanks!!

wizzy_bradz

19-06-2008, 11:12 AM

fjt at rowell rd bro

MonoWorld

19-06-2008, 06:07 PM

Bangkok has Rowell Rd and FJT as well haha

mr suave

19-06-2008, 07:52 PM

My speedometer SUDDENLY died on me. Whats the problem and how much to fix it? Pls advise. Thanks

NewUrbanMale_LSM

19-06-2008, 09:11 PM

Is there any offical Honda website to see the specifications of the bike?

Anyone reply me please?

Hehe!

Ah Pek

19-06-2008, 09:53 PM

Is there any offical Honda website to see the specifications of the bike?

Anyone reply me please?

Hehe!

Wah!!!...nobody care about you huh?...I just it was such a simple question that nobody care...LOL! I think so to lah...but aiyah...pity you leh...heeee...x3!

Next time do a Google search lah...just type "Honda" and plenty will come out mah...at least you shouldhave tot of "Honda.com" mah...Singapore is .sg...Japan is ".jp"...etc..

Anyway...here is one - http://powersports.honda.com/index.asp?bhcp=1

Don't know what you looking for but for most site like the USA, European, Australia..etc..all are 600cc and above for roaster. The rest are mixed.

If you go Thailand, Indonesia..etc...site..you find lots of the smaller one..Kup-Kiea plenty. Anyway if you are into S4...Japan site has the spec, history etc..good luck. That link givem avove should have a link to the Ji_Poon_Kiea site lah.:dot:

mr suave

19-06-2008, 10:04 PM

My speedometer SUDDENLY died on me. Whats the problem and how much to fix it? Pls advise. Thanks

:giddy: :giddy: :giddy:

Ah Pek

19-06-2008, 10:17 PM

continue...

7 Abnormal engine noise

Knocking or pinking

1) Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. Use of a fuel additive that will
dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the piston crown and
chamber is the easiest way to remove the buildup. Otherwise, the cylinder
head will have to be removed and decarbonised.

2) Incorrect or poor quality fuel. Old or improper fuel can cause detonation.
This causes the pistons to rattle, thus the knocking or pinking sound.
Drain the old fuel and always use the recommended grade fuel.

3) Spark plug heat range incorrect. Uncontrolled detonation indicates that
the plug heat range is too hot. The plug in effect becomes a glow plug,
raising cylinder temperatures. Install the proper heat range plug.

4) Improper air/fuel mixture. This will cause the cylinders to run hot and lead
to detonation. Clogged jets or an air leak can cause this imbalance.

Piston slap or rattling

1) Cylinder-to-piston clearance excessive. Caused by improper assembly.
Inspect and overhaul top-end parts.

2) Connecting rod bent. Caused by over-revving, trying to start a badly
flooded engine or from ingesting a foreign object into the combustion
chamber. Renew the damaged parts.

3) Piston pin or piston pin bore worn or seized from wear or lack of
lubrication. Renew damaged parts.

4) Piston ring(s) worn, broken or sticking. Overhaul the top-end.

5) Piston seizure damage. Usually from lack of lubrication or overheating.
Renew the pistons and bore the cylinders, as necessary.

6) Connecting rod upper or lower end clearance excessive. Caused by
excessive wear or lack of lubrication. Renew worn parts.

Valve noise

1) Incorrect valve clearances. Adjust the clearances.

2) Valve spring broken or weak. Check and renew weak valve springs.

3) Camshaft or cylinder head worn or damaged. Lack of lubrication at high
rpm is usually the cause of damage. Insufficient oil or failure to change the
oil at the recommended intervals are the chief causes. Since there are no
replaceable bearings in the head, the head itself will have to be renewed if
there is excessive wear or damage.

Other noise

1) Cylinder head gasket leaking.

2) Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection. Caused by improper fit
of pipe(s) or loose exhaust flange. All exhaust fasteners should be
tightened evenly and carefully. Failure to do this will lead to a leak.

3) Crankshaft runout excessive. Caused by a bent crankshaft (from over-
revving) or damage from an upper cylinder component failure.

4) Engine mounting bolts loose. Tighten all engine mount bolts.

5) Crankshaft bearings worn.

6) Camshaft drive gear assembly defective. Renew.

...to be continured...:cheer:

way_ne

19-06-2008, 10:28 PM

ah pek when having ur real live show teck ghee talk?
skulli teck ghee sq full hse....

Ah Pek

19-06-2008, 10:48 PM

Coming this 7th Ghost month...all riders from hades oso come ...really full house...can open at least 50 tables and with Kor_Tai liao :)

way_ne

19-06-2008, 10:55 PM

Coming this 7th Ghost month...all riders from hades oso come ...really full house...can open at least 50 tables and with Kor_Tai liao :)

haha...i say real wan u tell mi ghost month...
long time no gathering liao mah...

I_Ride_A_Bike

19-06-2008, 11:17 PM

Always
- use a Plug that is of proper heat range and reach(thread size, depth..); improper plug will lead to engine damage or poor performance
- proper torque to tighten plug
- clean area before removing Plug as dirt will enter cyclinder

To obtain an accurate reading from a new spark plug:
1. Accelerate at full throttle on a straight
2. Push the engine stop button and pull the clutch lever in to release the clutch
3. Coast to a stop
4. Remove the spark plug

Attached picture :
(1) Porcelain Insulator
(2) Center Electrode
(3) Side Electrode

The porcelain insulator (1) around the center electrode (2) should appear clean and colorless with a gray ring around the center electrode where it exits the porcelain. Metallic specks indicate lean jetting that is removing metal from the piston. Black sooty streaks on the porcelain indicate rich jetting.

Normal - Plug should appear WHITE (no color change) with light gray ring that depicts a Correct Mixture
Overheating - Extreme WHITE with aluminium specs indicate a Lean Mixture
Wet - Plug appears wet or sooty indicates that there's a Rich Mixture

In addition to improper jetting :

1) A lean condition can be caused by air leaks in the inlet tract or exhaust system, passing of too much air because of the use of the wrong air filter, use of a less-restrictive aftermarket exhaust system, or leaks in the air box.
2) A rich condition can be caused by a plugged or dirty air filter, use of a more-restrictive aftermarket exhaust system, a clogged catalytic system, or excessive oil on the air cleaner/filter. Excessive smoking may occur with this condition.

=]

rayhunter

19-06-2008, 11:28 PM

Q: where can i find that protector which looked like sand paper for the pillion to step on so that it will not scratch the exhaust?

Ah Pek

19-06-2008, 11:31 PM

:giddy: :giddy: :giddy:

May be you wanna have a look at your fuse box housing and look for the fuse that link the supply to your meter...likely its blown perhaps.

Ah Pek

19-06-2008, 11:33 PM

Q: where can i find that protector which looked like sand paper for the pillion to step on so that it will not scratch the exhaust?

Its not a protector but you be using it as...LOL!

Anyway...its an "anti skip" matt. Sold in small rolls too..if you are staying in AMK..can go to the DIY shop at NTUC Hub (just outside NTUC). They have it.

Advrider

19-06-2008, 11:36 PM

Q: where can i find that protector which looked like sand paper for the pillion to step on so that it will not scratch the exhaust?

Saw the new Revo the exhaust has a guard on the foot peg. Think should be able to fit to our bikes, plug and play.

rayhunter

19-06-2008, 11:44 PM

Saw the new Revo the exhaust has a guard on the foot peg. Think should be able to fit to our bikes, plug and play.

ever brought that idea to sengkwang even with pic attached intend to custom made the same but too bad,after hearing all the negative comments,advises and the unbelievable price quoted from the boss..i dropped that idea..

rayhunter

19-06-2008, 11:46 PM

Its not a protector but you be using it as...LOL!

Anyway...its an "anti skip" matt. Sold in small rolls too..if you are staying in AMK..can go to the DIY shop at NTUC Hub (just outside NTUC). They have it.

thanks for the tips...do u know if it is able to withstand the exhaust heat? peel off will it leave a melted mark on the exhaust?

Ah Pek

19-06-2008, 11:52 PM

thanks for the tips...do u know if it is able to withstand the exhaust heat? peel off will it leave a melted mark on the exhaust?

I used it about 15 yrs ago....LOL! Tough stuff..:thumb: Before you stick the under surface to your exhaust...make sure the muffler surface is clean of oil and any oil residue. When clean...give it a code of wax before sticking it on. The adhesive is heavy duty and really bites..suppose too! It can take the heat anytime...no melted marks..may need adhesive remover to do it..I used benjine (liquid fuel for flint lighters) the last time.

rayhunter

20-06-2008, 12:05 AM

I used it about 15 yrs ago....LOL! Tough stuff..:thumb: Before you stick the under surface to your exhaust...make sure the muffler surface is clean of oil and any oil residue. When clean...give it a code of wax before sticking it on. The adhesive is heavy duty and really bites..suppose too! It can take the heat anytime...no melted marks..may need adhesive remover to do it..I used benjine (liquid fuel for flint lighters) the last time.

:thumb: :thumb: code of wax on it and it still able to stick soooo well..really power..i think i better leave the exhaust alone..got scratch mark still can polish off..but i feel that this ''little anti slip mat'' is like too permanent..

I_Ride_A_Bike

20-06-2008, 12:07 AM

There are a few basic forces at work in any fork or shock that must be understood before you can make successful changes from the stock settings.

The first thing a tuner needs to understand is that for the most part, SPRINGS primarily just hold the bike up. They return the bike to a pre-set "height" or "sag" any time the suspension is compressed. Springs are NOT the POWER in a suspension system! Using normal springs or replacing the stock with stiffer ones only changes the "sag". The "sag" can be tailored to different rider weights by changing the spring either stiffer or softer, but really only affects the "ride-height" or "sag", nothing more!

The second thing is Hydraulics. This is really easy to understand as long as you remember that a fluid will NOT compress like a gas will, so a fluid is always going to be constant. Take for example a syringe with a needle on the end. The needle represents a "valve". The bigger the needle, the FASTER you can push the plunger, and the smaller the needle, the SLOWER you can push the plunger. Its all about the SPEED at which the plunger, or forks, can be pushed. The valving in your forks work the same way as the needle. It restricts the flow of the fluid. In a fork or shock that is externally adjustable, all your doing by turning adjusters, is increasing, or decreasing the TIME it takes to push a given volume of fluid through the valve. If you change to a thicker weight fluid, but leave the valve size as before, it will take LONGER to pass the same amount of fluid through the valve as before with a thinner weight fluid or oil. This works in both directions as in the "compression" and the "rebound" strokes. On most modern forks and shocks these "valves" are adjustable with the "clickers". (Ohlins, Bitubo? WP? HyperPro, Wilburs...) Remember that it's all about the SPEED at which the suspension compresses or re-bounds.

If the forks or shock COMPRESS too FAST, then they will "bottom out". If they compress too SLOW, then they wont use the full stroke, causing a rough ride, and a "push" in the front-end when your turning.

REBOUND is really misunderstood by a lot of people. Rebound controls the SPEED at which the forks or shock returns to its pre-set ride-height or "sag," after it compresses. If the forks rebound too FAST, then the bike will "push" in a turn. If the rear rebounds too FAST, then the rear of the bike will "kick-up" sometimes throwing the rider over the bars, or at least, smacking him in the bump. The object to setting rebound is to get the wheel back on the ground as soon as possible, WITHOUT adverse effects.

Experiment with your suspension and expect excellence. Just remember what does what and know what you're trying to fix before you start "throwing money" at it. (Although an Ohlins suspension can look darn good and solid, and you just 'die' w/o it =]) Almost all suspension problems can be fixed with very little money and some trial and error. Remember that "it's all about the SPEED at which things happen". If you think about it like that then you will be able to identify what needs to be fixed.

Good suspension really only has one job, it needs to give the rider the plushest(most comfortable) ride possible, over varying terrain, while allowing total control. Anything else is NOT acceptable!

I've left out point number 3 which is about "Air-Spring" -the amount of Air between the oil and the top cap/cover inside the fork/shock. This stiffness can be changed by lowering or raising oil levels within the fork. This consideration/portion is pretty complex so i've thought to leave it out for the time being.

Advrider

20-06-2008, 01:27 AM

ever brought that idea to sengkwang even with pic attached intend to custom made the same but too bad,after hearing all the negative comments,advises and the unbelievable price quoted from the boss..i dropped that idea..

Forget about customisation just buy the original plug and play.

rayhunter

20-06-2008, 01:36 AM

Forget about customisation just buy the original plug and play.

ever checked with boon siew but they dun have it yet..Will drop by FJT and check if they have it..or maybe any revo bros intend to sell? haa..but i think only for those who had changed to aftermarket exhaust then they do not need it..

Advrider

20-06-2008, 02:03 AM

ever checked with boon siew but they dun have it yet..Will drop by FJT and check if they have it..or maybe any revo bros intend to sell? haa..but i think only for those who had changed to aftermarket exhaust then they do not need it..

Forget about getting any parts from BS. Get the part number from them and go down to FJT or Chong Aik.

Don't think you can get it from the Revo brothers or Sisters just yet, cos there's no exhaust homolagated yet.

rayhunter

20-06-2008, 02:28 AM

Forget about getting any parts from BS. Get the part number from them and go down to FJT or Chong Aik.

yup..BS are for parts number reference only..hope i'll be able to get it soon.

Advrider

20-06-2008, 03:33 AM

yup..BS are for parts number reference only..hope i'll be able to get it soon.

Good luck in your search.

Ah Pek

20-06-2008, 09:30 AM

Woah!...interesting Bro!!!...now while you excuse me..got some fork thingy to do and make my ride more plushish! :)

inspire85

20-06-2008, 09:52 AM

Anyone can teach me aga aga how to adjust the throttle freeplay? Mine a bit loose and feel like tightening it..

Ah Pek

20-06-2008, 09:57 AM

Anyone can teach me aga aga how to adjust the throttle freeplay? Mine a bit loose and feel like tightening it..

Take off your tank..follow the "pull" throttle cable run to near the top of the carbs. There is a lock nut..just loosen it and turn the main pull throttle bolt stalk anti-clockwise..one little bit turns makes a lot of different.

Good luck.

inspire85

20-06-2008, 11:32 AM

Take off your tank..follow the "pull" throttle cable run to near the top of the carbs. There is a lock nut..just loosen it and turn the main pull throttle bolt stalk anti-clockwise..one little bit turns makes a lot of different.

Good luck.

Thanks !! I have another question, my throttle feels a bit stiff also, where can i apply WD40 to makes it more smooth?

Ah Pek

20-06-2008, 11:36 AM

Thanks !! I have another question, my throttle feels a bit stiff also, where can i apply WD40 to makes it more smooth?

Anywhere or part that comes in contact with each other and that moves..there is friction..use WD40 to remove any drid greasy stain or rust..than use Silicon spray..don't have silicon..use proper thin lubrication oil like "Singer"(for sewing machine. WD40 is not a true lubricant.:cool:

inspire85

20-06-2008, 11:39 AM

Anywhere or part that comes in contact with each other and that moves..there is friction..use WD40 to remove any drid greasy stain or rust..than use Silicon spray..don't have silicon..use proper thin lubrication oil like "Singer"(for sewing machine. WD40 is not a true lubricant.:cool:

Thanks for the prompt reply!! Is it easy to remove the 2 cables tat is attached to the throttle grip? I scared take out liao duno how to put back, cos if i wan to lubricate i oso need to lubricate the two points rite?

Ah Pek

20-06-2008, 11:44 AM

Thanks for the prompt reply!! Is it easy to remove the 2 cables tat is attached to the throttle grip? I scared take out liao duno how to put back, cos if i wan to lubricate i oso need to lubricate the two points rite?

BE VERY CAUTIOUS IF ITS YOUR FIRST TIME> THE PULL & RELEASE CABLE RUN AROUND THE PLASTIC PIECE CAN BE CONFUSION...but with some analogy should you missed how to put it back..should be no problem. Open the two half housing slowly..at any rate..if you screwed..don't find me...heeee..x3!

inspire85

20-06-2008, 11:51 AM

BE VERY CAUTIOUS IF ITS YOUR FIRST TIME> THE PULL & RELEASE CABLE RUN AROUND THE PLASTIC PIECE CAN BE CONFUSION...but with some analogy should you missed how to put it back..should be no problem. Open the two half housing slowly..at any rate..if you screwed..don't find me...heeee..x3!

:giddy: :giddy: :giddy:
Den i better don't mess with it unless i got some guru ard.. LOL.. Thanks alot pek.. :thumb: :thumb:

rayhunter

20-06-2008, 12:30 PM

:giddy: :giddy: :giddy:
Den i better don't mess with it unless i got some guru ard.. LOL.. Thanks alot pek.. :thumb: :thumb:

bro,better dun mess with it if not sure..get to yr regular mech and get it done..guess it should be chargeless..hee..

NewUrbanMale_LSM

20-06-2008, 08:25 PM

Wah!!!...nobody care about you huh?...I just it was such a simple question that nobody care...LOL! I think so to lah...but aiyah...pity you leh...heeee...x3!

Next time do a Google search lah...just type "Honda" and plenty will come out mah...at least you shouldhave tot of "Honda.com" mah...Singapore is .sg...Japan is ".jp"...etc..

Anyway...here is one - http://powersports.honda.com/index.asp?bhcp=1

Don't know what you looking for but for most site like the USA, European, Australia..etc..all are 600cc and above for roaster. The rest are mixed.

If you go Thailand, Indonesia..etc...site..you find lots of the smaller one..Kup-Kiea plenty. Anyway if you are into S4...Japan site has the spec, history etc..good luck. That link givem avove should have a link to the Ji_Poon_Kiea site lah.:dot:

Hmm. I see no s4 in that webbie wor.

slowstatic

21-06-2008, 01:12 AM

As above ? :(

deviLLian

21-06-2008, 01:42 AM

Ah Pek

21-06-2008, 01:50 AM

wahlieew.. some brainless kork go n do sprayin near my bike.. now both my meter display screens got very fine white freckles of paint. R thr any products which i can use to clean dem off without damaging d clear plastic? my gearbox also kanna.. scared if i use thinner or turpentine might be too strong.....

85% Kerosene blend with 5% soap poder/10% water. Use a roough surface rag cloth. Sponge with clean water immediately when you finished the part done...one at a time. :dot:

deviLLian

21-06-2008, 02:10 AM

85% Kerosene blend with 5% soap poder/10% water. Use a roough surface rag cloth. Sponge with clean water immediately when you finished the part done...one at a time. :dot:

d transparent plastic wont bcome transluscent if use kerosene? skali bcome opague lagi worse...

zell_teo

21-06-2008, 02:59 AM

depends on the age of the bike.. if 3yr old n below is consider hi to me... the other way rd , if 6 yrs old, its good.. as under use :cheeky:

Abacus

21-06-2008, 07:38 AM

d3an_cain

21-06-2008, 08:24 AM

may b batt must change? on bike got headlight on?

Sh|nHwA-

21-06-2008, 09:02 AM

pls post ur probs at the FAQ thread,,

Thx

Sh|nHwA-
:thumb:

Ah Pek

21-06-2008, 10:33 AM

from jurong west to check point non stop riding and machine running fine but after pass port stamping my bike cant start. pushing start and running well again. one week later again the same problem. could some one here guide me what is wrong with my machine ? notice green neutral light not lighting up, cannot read cash card, bike cant start.

Trace your "Kill Switch" wire..likely its faulty along its tracek..probably near the steeriing under the tank.

4D~ToTo~Big Sweep

21-06-2008, 01:28 PM

from jurong west to check point non stop riding and machine running fine but after pass port stamping my bike cant start. pushing start and running well again. one week later again the same problem. could some one here guide me what is wrong with my machine ? notice green neutral light not lighting up, cannot read cash card, bike cant start.

Time 2 change your battery...
I kena once b4 also... After checking of passport, wanna start bike but cannot... so pai seh 2 push start there... The officer even come just 2 ask is everything ok>??? o_O o_O o_O :cry: :cry: :cry:
After change of battery dont have this problem liao... :cool: :cool: :cool:

slowstatic

21-06-2008, 01:31 PM

depends on the age of the bike.. if 3yr old n below is consider hi to me... the other way rd , if 6 yrs old, its good.. as under use :cheeky:

:( It's a less than 3 years Super4 Spec III. 2005

Cosmetic is fine, the previous owner maintain it quite well...

But the mileage has already hit 52K !!!!!

Anyone knows roughly how much mileage the spec III can take b4 it hit problems ???

Assuming that the previous owner did perform basic maintenance like changing engine oil & stuff ?

Thanks !

inspire85

21-06-2008, 01:32 PM

pls post ur probs at the FAQ thread,,

Thx

Sh|nHwA-
:thumb:

Wah bro book out le ah? :cheeky: :cheeky:

4D~ToTo~Big Sweep

21-06-2008, 01:33 PM

:( It's a less than 3 years Super4 Spec III. 2005

Cosmetic is fine, the previous owner maintain it quite well...

But the mileage has already hit 52K !!!!!

Anyone knows roughly how much mileage the spec III can take b4 it hit problems ???

Assuming that the previous owner did perform basic maintenance like changing engine oil & stuff ?

Thanks !

52k km is ok la... i ride around 20k a year :) :) :)

slowstatic

21-06-2008, 02:07 PM

52k km is ok la... i ride around 20k a year :) :) :)

Thanks bro ! :) :o

But 52,000 seemed really alot for a 2year old ++ bike :(

deviLLian

21-06-2008, 03:21 PM

den dont buy lor..
buy 1st hand.. zero mileage.. hehehe
ppl like me stay west but work changi even worst about 63k n not even 2 years..
muz travel to jb freq sumore pump petrol.. :faint:
bring sumone experienced to recky wif u lah :thumb:

s4vtec

21-06-2008, 03:26 PM

85% Kerosene blend with 5% soap poder/10% water. Use a roough surface rag cloth. Sponge with clean water immediately when you finished the part done...one at a time. :dot:

need kerosene? click here... (http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4380236)

deviLLian

21-06-2008, 05:18 PM

need kerosene? click here... (http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4380236)

hey thanks bro but i got mine at d paint shop near my house also $2..
but thanks for d thought :cheeky:

s4vtec

21-06-2008, 05:20 PM

hey thanks bro but i got mine at d paint shop near my house also $2..
but thanks for d thought :cheeky:

so now manage to salvage the ruin? :confused:

Abacus

21-06-2008, 06:57 PM

Time 2 change your battery...
I kena once b4 also... After checking of passport, wanna start bike but cannot... so pai seh 2 push start there... The officer even come just 2 ask is everything ok>??? o_O o_O o_O :cry: :cry: :cry:
After change of battery dont have this problem liao... :cool: :cool: :cool:
>>>>

Change the battery today at Planet Motor Ubi. Got the $65 battery from T KO CHONG. the last time paid $130 last about 3 yrs. hope the fault is rectify.

4D~ToTo~Big Sweep

21-06-2008, 07:47 PM

Sure no problem... Cos u already say the last battery was 3 years ago...:angel: :angel: :angel:

PaLmEr

21-06-2008, 08:13 PM

PaLmEr

21-06-2008, 08:16 PM

4D~ToTo~Big Sweep

21-06-2008, 08:49 PM

Thanks bro ! :) :o

But 52,000 seemed really alot for a 2year old ++ bike :(

Take your time Bro... Dont rush things... maybe theres better ones around?
If cant find any, then i think this bike is worth the buy :) :) :)

:deal: :deal::deal:

I_Ride_A_Bike

21-06-2008, 10:56 PM

A picture of the circuit of Braking system(1) and radial pump design vs conventional brake pump(2).. I've two parts to share. One is the use of normal master pump against radial master cylindrical pumps, the other being the effect of master cylinder piston size (like brembo offering something like 19x20) on the performance of the braking system.

Q: Any difference between a radial designed master-cylinder brake pump against that of the conventional ones that we have on our bike?

(Note: S4 is using the right pump in the attached picture. Brembo or other aftermarket brake pumps are usually designed similiar to the left pump picture.)

A: (I quote from Paul Dean in his write-up in CycleWorld Nov'07 with some rephrasing and add ons...)
Having seen several different claimed benefits of radial-pump master-cylinder such as increased leverage or the ability to have larger piston diameter, these qualities could have easily been built onto conventional designs.
But really, the only significant advantage of the radial type is their greater resistance to Flexing.

When you squeeze the lever on a conventional master cylinder(the right pump in attached picture), the forced applied with your hand is inward and towards the handlebar; the piston, however, is oriented parallel to the handlebar. Thus, the lever has to turn your squeezing force about 90 degrees to the left.

This causes the entire master-cylinder assembly to flex, since it is mounted to the handlebar only on a relatively narrow perch (a bar or peg on which something is hung). In fact, if you wanted to design a mechanism intended to flex such a mount as easily as possible, it would be hard to outdo a conventional master-cylinder arrangement.

A radial-pump design, however, eliminates practically all of that flex. The force you apply to the lever with your hand still is inward, obviously, but so is the force applied to the master-cylinder piston, which is perpendicular to the handlebar rather than parallel to it.
In fact, the piston is 'trapped' between the lever and the bar, with all of the forces acting in the same direction. Consequently, none or very little of your squeezing force is lost to the flexing of the master-cylinder mount, giving the brakes a more positive, solid feel.
(Unquote)

Next question, if i change to an aftermarket radial designed master-cylinder brake pump, will it definitely help in braking and the overrall increase performance in my bike's braking system?

One will have to contemplate on balancing a bigger piston size(S4 is using 16mm if i'm not wrong) resulting in a lessened pressure throughout the brake system but on the other hand will pump or move more fluid for any given stroke of the brake lever. Till next time... Principles of Hydraulics.

joajas

22-06-2008, 12:29 AM

If the maintenance of the bike is tip top, and all parts are serviced and changed according to manufacturer guidelines or degree of wear, then total mileage is no longer an issue.

If a 2 year bike has only 10000km clocked, but that no maintenance was done at all, it will be worse that one that has been maintained properly.

Just me 2c.

PaLmEr

22-06-2008, 04:46 AM

Energizer

23-06-2008, 02:36 AM

Hi everyone,

I was wondering if the Spec 3 Signal cover (white-original) can be use to replace for Spec 1 Signal cover (orange-original) with out having to change the Black holder... Please advise.

Thanks,
Ash

size are different and i just brought a whole spec3 signal light frm LAB.... it cost $60....

Energizer

23-06-2008, 02:41 AM

Hi everyone,

I was wondering if the Spec 3 Signal cover (white-original) can be use to replace for Spec 1 Signal cover (orange-original) with out having to change the Black holder... Please advise.

Thanks,
Ash

size are difference and i just brought a whole spec 3 signal light, front n behind frm LAB.... it cost $60

Advrider

23-06-2008, 10:00 AM

Celtic

23-06-2008, 10:00 AM

Are there other meters that has fuel indication other then stock meter?which bike shop has?

F|rdAuZ

23-06-2008, 03:48 PM

SMR

23-06-2008, 06:29 PM

I saw somewhere in this forum about a metal cover that cover the metal handle for the pillion on the back..u noe when u remove the handle theres 2 screw..i want to cover that screw..u noe what i mean? where got sell n how much?

Are you riding Spec3? I think you meant this...
http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3260364&postcount=29

F|rdAuZ

23-06-2008, 07:08 PM

Are you riding Spec3? I think you meant this...
http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3260364&postcount=29

YUP2..thanks bro... u think can spray the metal plate to same color of my bike?

I_Ride_A_Bike

23-06-2008, 07:27 PM

Bro this is very cheem. Don't really understand what they say. Is it possible to summarise.

never mastered the art of doing summary since sec sch.. :cheeky:
basically its a brief explanation of how rear shock works. gas, oil, piston, spring; the write up tried to put these pieces together.

ever hear of compression damping and rebound damping? its all related and would give the rider more awareness on what capability his suspension can do or is doing..

just did a 380km travel in 1day at very uneven roads at m'sia. my rear shocks really gave me a 'plush' ride.

MrQuan

23-06-2008, 09:08 PM

which is the best place to change clutch plate .. n hw much is it ..

biting_point

24-06-2008, 01:45 AM