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Thread: [Q&A] SBF CB400 Official Q&A Thread 2009 (PLS ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

  1. #6251
    kelvinlaujunyi
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    hi any idea where can i get/download super 4 spec 3 service manual?

  2. #6252
    engeto
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    Quote Originally Posted by fadrocks View Post
    Q) i tend to remove my rear mudguard for cb400 spec 3. Meaning whats left is just my number plate and signal light. Any idea where to do and how much thanks
    You are referring to fender eliminator bracket. You need to install this fender eliminator after you remove your stock mud guard. Most motor shops able to install the bracket but theres also few branded ones like Evotech and Hodaka. A simple bracket i was quoted around $40. But gentle reminder,this thing will not pass inspection. :-)
    Last edited by engeto; 09-04-2012 at 01:38 AM.
    Its not how fast you can reach your destination and its not how you modify your machine but at the end of the day, its HOW you ride the machine!!!!.

     

     
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    azzuri
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    Hi everyone! I got a problem thats bothering me abt my spec 1 which i juz bought recently. Im hearing a
    Ticking sound thats coming from the left side of my engine whenever i rev up to 6k the sound will be
    Heard on every gears i shift(its hard to hear it when in gear 6 though) what could be the problem? And is
    The problem big? Im stressing here... Pls help me

  4. #6254
    lex90
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    [Q]

    Hi to all senior CB400 riders!

    recently i encounter engine stalls after startup of my spec1.
    changed battery last week start of April 2012.

    Electric start was alright. after like 3sec, the bike starts to vibrates near the engine side and cranking sound is heard as the engine sound appear slower and slower and it stalls -.-|||

    ask some of my frens, some say its carb need wash, some say spark plug need change.. i seriously dunno wad is happening!

    this only happens when the engine is cooled and needs to startup. Moving out and riding is totally fine.


    Pls assist me. tks

  5. #6255
    Ah Pek
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    Quote Originally Posted by lex90 View Post
    [Q]

    Hi to all senior CB400 riders!

    recently i encounter engine stalls after startup of my spec1.
    changed battery last week start of April 2012.

    Electric start was alright. after like 3sec, the bike starts to vibrates near the engine side and cranking sound is heard as the engine sound appear slower and slower and it stalls -.-|||

    ask some of my frens, some say its carb need wash, some say spark plug need change.. i seriously dunno wad is happening!

    this only happens when the engine is cooled and needs to startup. Moving out and riding is totally fine.


    Pls assist me. tks
    When ur bike can start..u charged battery for what? U need to adjust ur idling higher.
    Stupid Hurts!.Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does
    BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

  6. #6256
    lex90
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ah Pek View Post
    When ur bike can start..u charged battery for what? U need to adjust ur idling higher.
    sir may i know how can i do it?
    the voltage keeps going ard 11~12 on stationary, issit suppose to be liddat? O.o

    plus the engine cuts off due to cranking of the engine, kik kok kik kok sound

  7. #6257
    Ah Pek
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    Quote Originally Posted by lex90 View Post
    sir may i know how can i do it?
    the voltage keeps going ard 11~12 on stationary, issit suppose to be liddat? O.o

    plus the engine cuts off due to cranking of the engine, kik kok kik kok sound
    Ignore ur voltmeter lots of ppl installed it and don't know how to use it..all they expect to see is always 12v dc +.anyway..they are never reliable and not meant for external installation...sighhh). The idling screw is between and below the centre of the two middle carbs..turn it clockwise to increase idleing speed. Can drop by any mototiam and asked them to show u.
    Stupid Hurts!.Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does
    BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

  8. #6258
    Muge~
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    Hi All,

    Anybody has Spec3 or any CB400 wiring diagram?
    I've been searching on the web but nowhere to be found.
    Planning to do a project installing LED for my top box.
    Thanks.

  9. #6259
    lex90
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    hey thanks so much !! will drop by mototiam tmr to check it out!! thanks again!

  10. #6260
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    [Q]
    Ηi again from Greece.
    I have made a modification and i need your knowlegde and your advice.
    I have a sf400 version r.I notice that the front suspension is too soft,especially when i use front brakes.So i was look what i can do for that.You know that the version r don't have preload bolds at the front springs.
    New aftermarket springs (WP or HyperPro) it's too expensive here.(about 150-200euros).Original springs is more expensive.So i have found a crashed version s equipped with preload bolds with no damage(like new),and i grap it at 20euros.

    The version r extensions beetwin spring and bold is 20cm.The version s extensions is 15cm.(i guess version s have bigger spring).
    The version r bold is 1,80cm and the version s bold is 2,50cm with no use of the preload reguletor.The distance is bigger with use of regulator.
    I have leaved the version r spring extentions in their place,because version s is too short for my springs.So when i put the version s bold on their place i have preload already the springs 7mm.I repeat with no use of bold regulator.
    Of course now my version r is more beautyfull,but do you belive that 7mm is too mutch preload??
    I have no more too mutch dummping,and the driving is mutch easyer.But the moto is too hard in bad roads with potholes.
    If i can chainge the oil (10) to (5)do you belive i can make little softer front suspention??
    I forgot to mention that the version s springs that i have found was damaged,and i dont remember but i think version s have diferend front shocks from version r.So i don't know if i can solve the problem,even if version s springs was in good contition.
    Take a look at photo and thanks for your respond.
    Last edited by itom32; 11-04-2012 at 07:38 PM.

  11. #6261
    Ah Pek
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    Quote Originally Posted by itom32 View Post
    [Q]
    Ηi again from Greece.
    I have made a modification and i need your knowlegde and your advice.
    I have a sf400 version r.I notice that the front suspension is too soft,especially when i use front brakes.So i was look what i can do for that.You know that the version r don't have preload bolds at the front springs.
    New aftermarket springs (WP or HyperPro) it's too expensive here.(about 150-200euros).Original springs is more expensive.So i have found a crashed version s equipped with preload bolds with no damage(like new),and i grap it at 20euros.

    The version r extensions beetwin spring and bold is 20cm.The version s extensions is 15cm.(i guess version s have bigger spring).
    The version r bold is 1,80cm and the version s bold is 2,50cm with no use of the preload reguletor.The distance is bigger with use of regulator.
    I have leaved the version r spring extentions in their place,because version s is too short for my springs.So when i put the version s bold on their place i have preload already the springs 7mm.I repeat with no use of bold regulator.
    Of course now my version r is more beautyfull,but do you belive that 7mm is too mutch preload??
    I have no more too mutch dummping,and the driving is mutch easyer.But the moto is too hard in bad roads with potholes.
    If i can chainge the oil (10) to (5)do you belive i can make little softer front suspention??
    I forgot to mention that the version s springs that i have found was damaged,and i dont remember but i think version s have diferend front shocks from version r.So i don't know if i can solve the problem,even if version s springs was in good contition.
    Take a look at photo and thanks for your respond.
    Use 500ml fork oil..add a front wheel bearing on each fork spring. U get "rigid damping" and better rebound rate (its what u need).
    Stupid Hurts!.Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does
    BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

     

     
  12. #6262
    nnhlam
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    Default Super Four VTEC 3 Wiring diagram

    Hello

    Where can I find or download wiring diagram of Honda Super Four VTEC III NC39? please advise

    Thanks

  13. #6263
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ah Pek View Post
    Use 500ml fork oil..add a front wheel bearing on each fork spring. U get "rigid damping" and better rebound rate (its what u need).
    Thank you so mutch for your answer.

  14. #6264
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    Hi guys,

    Q)
    i've heard of dynojet.. im sure its somesort of power up e engine but can someone fill me in with abit of details?
    Thanks.

  15. #6265
    azman ibrahim
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    Hey guys, need help here. Encounter high coolant temp on my revo and it is the 2nd time already. I just change coolant last month due to the same probz and i just change the radiator cap. I look for leaking but there no single drop and the hose is still soft not brittle. Can anyone help?

  16. #6266
    tiku
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    Quote Originally Posted by azman ibrahim View Post
    Hey guys, need help here. Encounter high coolant temp on my revo and it is the 2nd time already. I just change coolant last month due to the same probz and i just change the radiator cap. I look for leaking but there no single drop and the hose is still soft not brittle. Can anyone help?
    coolant lv? else u can try adding a by pass switch to on the fan when ever jam...
    WTS givi e16 smile box, with led @$20
    WTS H4 whitelight (blue bulb) , non famous jap brand, unused
    WTS Kings hi cut safety boots, still gd in terms of outlook and groove


    interested party , do PM me..

  17. #6267
    nnhlam
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    Finally I got it ... although scan copy black & white but very clear. Many things for studying.....

  18. #6268
    HaiR1
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    TS, care to share the link? diagram?

  19. #6269
    blackness
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    just sharing, i just changed magneto coil at planet. including workmanship and gasket, total cost $330. boss say he got coil from Boon Siew, so price fluctuation depends on boon siew too. not sure if its my imagination, but after changing coil, bike feel smoother. lol

    my lovers. cb 400 & sprint 1050 gt

  20. #6270
    nnhlam
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    Of course, I tried to post many times in forum that diagram but unsuccessful. I don't know why? maybe something wrong

    If anybody need, let me know email address

  21. #6271
    xstorm
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    For Vtec 3
    If the meter spin a second time after the engine start, is it a sign of weak battery?

     

     
  22. #6272
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    Quote Originally Posted by xstorm View Post
    For Vtec 3
    If the meter spin a second time after the engine start, is it a sign of weak battery?
    That's start up check

    Weak battery means can't start engine and at that time trip 1 & 2 meter will be reset after you push start button

  23. #6273
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    Quote Originally Posted by xstorm View Post
    For Vtec 3
    If the meter spin a second time after the engine start, is it a sign of weak battery?
    Correct. Change your batt b4 it totally can't start. Else gt to push start
    WTS givi e16 smile box, with led @$20
    WTS H4 whitelight (blue bulb) , non famous jap brand, unused
    WTS Kings hi cut safety boots, still gd in terms of outlook and groove


    interested party , do PM me..

  24. #6274
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    Thanks for the info. Wouldn't want to push start the bike.

  25. #6275
    kelvinlaujunyi
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    i experienced the same thing before. and i chose to ignore it. after that i realised my magnetic coil all the way to my battery all fry. ended up chaging all this 3 things.

  26. #6276
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiku View Post
    Correct. Change your batt b4 it totally can't start. Else gt to push start
    I think when u press start, main relay cut of all other parts like light, meter using electric and after release start button power supply again to meter and it spin again like first time turn on ignition

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    Hi Guys,

    I have recently purchased a new Revo and have reached more than 1200km. Kindly advise me on the fololwing:

    When on the sixth gear n running at 80km/h, 5k rpm.. i felt the engine is pretty smooth. But when i accelerate slightly more to 85km/h, 5.5k rpm (VTEC not yet open).. i felt the engine vibrating more (felt over a thet handlebar as well) n engine sound pretty rough.

    I dun feel this way for other gears when I hit 5k rpm and above.

    At neutral position, when i clutch in, the engine is sound pretty smooth no noticeable vibration.. but when i release the clutch.. i can feel quite noticeable vibration of the engine.

    May i Know is it normal or??? something might go wrong?

    Thank you in advance for the answers and advise...

  28. #6278
    boymay22
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    Super 4 gurus, how to remove the 190kmh speed cut, please advice.

  29. #6279
    tiku
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    Quote Originally Posted by nnhlam View Post
    I think when u press start, main relay cut of all other parts like light, meter using electric and after release start button power supply again to meter and it spin again like first time turn on ignition
    nope.. it isnt this way... when we on the bike, the needle will swipe once, when bike engine start wif batt strong, needle will not swipe the second time, but if batt weak (initial stage) bike start liao, needle will swipe the second time to warn us batt weak liao ..
    WTS givi e16 smile box, with led @$20
    WTS H4 whitelight (blue bulb) , non famous jap brand, unused
    WTS Kings hi cut safety boots, still gd in terms of outlook and groove


    interested party , do PM me..

  30. #6280
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    hi guys,

    need help.. Spec1 - jerking at lower revs!

    currently had replaced my clutch plates and spark plugs and one of my spark plug cap liao. my bike still jerking /pulling as though the petrol is not buring properly at lower revs around 3.5k-4k rpm. vtec never kick in at 6.5k like normal but maybe ard 7k rpm.

    Thanks a million bros...

  31. #6281
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    Quote Originally Posted by AstroKnot View Post
    hi guys,

    need help.. Spec1 - jerking at lower revs!

    currently had replaced my clutch plates and spark plugs and one of my spark plug cap liao. my bike still jerking /pulling as though the petrol is not buring properly at lower revs around 3.5k-4k rpm. vtec never kick in at 6.5k like normal but maybe ard 7k rpm.

    Thanks a million bros...
    The things u had done did not solve ur problem...u DIY or done by a mech? If by mech..u should go back to him and say that the problem is not solve yet. If still can't..may be u wanna pm me.
    Stupid Hurts!.Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does
    BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

     

     
  32. #6282
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiku View Post
    nope.. it isnt this way... when we on the bike, the needle will swipe once, when bike engine start wif batt strong, needle will not swipe the second time, but if batt weak (initial stage) bike start liao, needle will swipe the second time to warn us batt weak liao ..
    Thanks.
    My bike always spin meter after engine start since nearly last 2 months... It's still OK .
    I read bike manual but not found related suggestion. Except above symptom, How to check battery?

  33. #6283
    boymay22
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    Quote Originally Posted by boymay22 View Post
    Super 4 gurus, how to remove the 190kmh speed cut, please advice.
    Pleaseee... anyone can advise on this??

  34. #6284
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    Quote Originally Posted by xstorm View Post
    For Vtec 3
    If the meter spin a second time after the engine start, is it a sign of weak battery?
    Quote Originally Posted by nnhlam View Post
    That's start up check

    Weak battery means can't start engine and at that time trip 1 & 2 meter will be reset after you push start button
    Quote Originally Posted by tiku View Post
    Correct. Change your batt b4 it totally can't start. Else gt to push start
    Quote Originally Posted by kelvinlaujunyi View Post
    i experienced the same thing before. and i chose to ignore it. after that i realised my magnetic coil all the way to my battery all fry. ended up chaging all this 3 things.
    Quote Originally Posted by nnhlam View Post
    I think when u press start, main relay cut of all other parts like light, meter using electric and after release start button power supply again to meter and it spin again like first time turn on ignition
    Quote Originally Posted by tiku View Post
    nope.. it isnt this way... when we on the bike, the needle will swipe once, when bike engine start wif batt strong, needle will not swipe the second time, but if batt weak (initial stage) bike start liao, needle will swipe the second time to warn us batt weak liao ..
    Have a look here for more info on 2nd swipe issue.

  35. #6285
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    simple question, need to remove exhaust to remove rear shocks?

  36. #6286
    adam91
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    hi! im looking for a stainless steel header for my s4 vtec1.. anyone knows where to get it for a gd price or second hand gd condition too.. thanks alot..

  37. #6287
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    Quote Originally Posted by ramsnake View Post
    Have a look here for more info on 2nd swipe issue.
    Thanks
    But I don't understand start charge at 3,000 rpm and peak at 5,000 rpm. It means below than 3,000 rpm or over than 5,000 rpm battery was not charged?

  38. #6288
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    Hi,
    My spec 1 have a problem at the expressway, traveling halfway suddenly lost power. No matter how much I throttle, rpm won't go up. When I rev, the engine sound very weak and then die off.
    Can anyone adviser what's wrong?
    Many thanks
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  39. #6289
    jayz
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    Quote Originally Posted by LXY View Post
    Hi,
    My spec 1 have a problem at the expressway, traveling halfway suddenly lost power. No matter how much I throttle, rpm won't go up. When I rev, the engine sound very weak and then die off.
    Can anyone adviser what's wrong?
    Many thanks
    i hv encountered this problem with my en125. suddenly no power, give throttle will die off. cos battery weak and spark plug. but i not sure bout your case. call up ah pek to help!
    02/2010 - 12/2010 [Yamaha x1 / FY7**8A]
    01/11 - ? [Honda CB400 vtec 1 / FT9**1M]

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    Quote Originally Posted by jayz View Post
    i hv encountered this problem with my en125. suddenly no power, give throttle will die off. cos battery weak and spark plug. but i not sure bout your case. call up ah pek to help!
    Hmm new batt and spark plug not long ago.
    Worry the damage is very serious. Hai~
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  41. #6291
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    Quote Originally Posted by LXY View Post
    Hmm new batt and spark plug not long ago.
    Worry the damage is very serious. Hai~
    Ur battery is still ok..just not charge..go for a bench top recharged it as it is new and likely not faulty. After charging..asked the mech to check ur charging voltage out put...should be at least 13.5v dc and up to best at 14.2v dc. If it's 13.2v dc or below 13v dc..it's either ur rectifier or magneto coil going bad..or worst both. Don't just listen there..observe and asked.
    Stupid Hurts!.Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does
    BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

     

     
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    Hi Ah Pek

    Got a question for you. My bike got the tick tick sound during morning start up or when engine is cold but sound dissapear when engine is hot. My mech told me to change the tensioner. Should I?

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    Quote Originally Posted by manbai View Post
    Hi Ah Pek

    Got a question for you. My bike got the tick tick sound during morning start up or when engine is cold but sound dissapear when engine is hot. My mech told me to change the tensioner. Should I?
    U better change mechanic!!!.....it's normal..just ignore it.
    Stupid Hurts!.Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does
    BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

  44. #6294
    mfaisalby
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ah Pek View Post
    U better change mechanic!!!.....it's normal..just ignore it.
    lol... yah tick tick tick... normal lah for super 4. i do valve clearance, chg tensioner also still gt d sound. dun bother lah.
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfaisalby View Post
    lol... yah tick tick tick... normal lah for super 4. i do valve clearance, chg tensioner also still gt d sound. dun bother lah.
    Eh i got same prob! The only diff is my tick tick sound comes only when i've been riding for some time.. is it still normal?

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    Quote Originally Posted by krp View Post
    Eh i got same prob! The only diff is my tick tick sound comes only when i've been riding for some time.. is it still normal?
    Yes....normal.
    Stupid Hurts!.Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does
    BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ah Pek View Post
    Ur battery is still ok..just not charge..go for a bench top recharged it as it is new and likely not faulty. After charging..asked the mech to check ur charging voltage out put...should be at least 13.5v dc and up to best at 14.2v dc. If it's 13.2v dc or below 13v dc..it's either ur rectifier or magneto coil going bad..or worst both. Don't just listen there..observe and asked.
    thanks ah pek! i was told and seen by myself that the CDI flooded with water and corroded due to previous owner who cut open the casing to solder wire into the internal pins. will CDI fault result into lost of power during throttling?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ah Pek View Post
    U better change mechanic!!!.....it's normal..just ignore it.
    That's what i thought too after reading some of your comments regarding the tick sound. Thanks Ah Pek.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ah Pek View Post
    Yes....normal.
    Just curious - where does the ticking sound come from?

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    Quote Originally Posted by krp View Post
    Just curious - where does the ticking sound come from?
    There are 16 shims in all..their thickness varies..the thinnest and far off from the rest makes the most noise till heat builds up and metal expand that makes it 'tighter' and thus less sound. The shim is actually ur cam follwer to valve stem clearance.
    Stupid Hurts!.Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does
    BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

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