On a 3,736km adventure through Laos

[Pauche]

Did a road + dirt trip in Laos in Dec 2008 from Houei Xai to Pakxe in 15 days on a XR250 Baja from Jules Classic Rental. Here are some infomation/tips to share, for the benefit of those who are planning for a trip to Laos.

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[Pauche]

Trip Itinerary
Day 1: Chiang Khong - Houei Xai – Vieng Phoukha – Luang Nam Tha
Day 2: Luang Nam Tha – Boten – Oudom Xai – Muang Beng – Oudom Xai
Day 3: Oudom Xai – Pak Mong – Nong Khiaw – Luang Prabang
Day 4: Luang Prabang – Pak Ou Cave – Kuang Si Waterfall – Luang Prabang
Day 5: Luang Prabang – Pak Xeng – Sam Soun – Vieng Thong
Day 6: Vieng Thong – Phou Lao – Sam Neua – Vieng Xai – Sam Neua
Day 7: Sam Neua – Phou Lao – Muang Kham – Phonsavan
Day 8: Phonsavan – Phou Khoun – Kasi – Vang Vieng
Day 9: Vang Vieng – Vientiane
Day 10: Vientiane – Paksan – Khoun Kham - Kong Lor - Khoun Kham
Day 11: Khoun Kham – Lak Sao – Nakai – Gnommalath – Mahaxai - Thakek
Day 12: Thakek – Seno – Muang Phine – Toumlan
Day 13: Toumlan – Saravan – Pakse – Champasak
Day 14: Champasak – Veun Kham – Don Khong
Day 15: Don Khong – Pakse – Paksong – Pakse
Day 16: Pakse - Vang Tao - Chong Mek - Ubon Ratchathani

Route Map

[Pauche]

Road Report

1) Houei Xai - Vieng Phoukha - Luang Nam Tha - Na Teuy - Boten
Good sealed roads, winding & sweeping corners though the mountains, offering scenic landscapes. One of the cleanest and best roads in Laos, through there are some broken roads at certain sections. This is the main link for trucks plying trade between China and Thailand. Avg riding speed 60-90km/h.





2) Na Tuey - Oudom Xai
Narrow, dusty unsealed tracks, with lots of potholes and loose granites. Easily smoked out by trucks. Avg riding speed 40-50km/h.

3) Oudom Xai - Muang Beng
Good, fast, sealed roads. Just have to slow down for the animals at main the villages. Avg riding speed 70km/h.


4) Oudom Xai - Pak Mong
Semi sealed roads/tracks with lots of potholes. Avg riding speed 40-50km/h.


5) Pak Mong - Nong Khiaw
Fast, sealed roads. Avg riding speed 60-70km/h.

6) Pak Mong - Luang Prabang
Fast, good, sealed roads. Traffic gets heavy and somewhat dusty from the Pak Ou turnoff till Luang Prabang. Avg riding speed 80-100km/h

7) Luang Prabang - Pak Xeng
Good red dirt, dusty at times, easily managable. Few sections just hada landslide and excavation works are in progress on some parts. Avg riding speed 50km/h.



8 ) Pak Xeng - Sam Soun
Good dirt, winding and steep accend climb, but track gets narrow on certain stretches, which is pretty dangerous when u turn out from a blind corner and an oncoming vehicle comes right into your path head on! However, the views are fu*kkingggg excellent!!! There is a narrow strip at the top of the mountain where you have sweeping views of the landscape on BOTH the left and right side as you look down the mountain!!! Avg riding speed 40-50km/h.



At this junction, you need to turn left to get to Sam Soun. Once you hit the tarmac, the left turn brings you to Vieng Kham, the right turn towards Vieng Thong.


9) Sam Soun - Vieng Thong
Lots of huge potholes on the broken tarmac at many sections. The road is sealed towards the Vieng Thong side. Avg riding speed 60-80km/h.

10) Vieng Thong - Phou Loa
Great sealed roads, but was fogged out at 1600m above sea level, and got myself a little 'wet'. Avg riding speed 50-60km/h.

11) Phou Loa - Xam Neua
Nice winding roads with lots of elevation changes. Furthermore with some fog, the road is slightly damp, so its easy to slide around! However the scenery makes up for the tough conditions. Avg riding speed 40-50km/h.

12) Xam Neua - Vieng Xai
The steep and winding downhill section was great fun, better still if you have a challenger on a 100cc honda that sits two/three, and rides it hard like a MotoGP bike! Avg riding speed 60km/h.

13) Phou Loa - Nam Noen
This is one of the most beautiful section after days of riding. The landscape is undescribable on words. Sealed road, winding, steep, and foggy at times. Avg riding speed 40-50km/h.

14) Nam Noen - Muang Kham
Good sealed roads. Avg riding speed 60-70km/h.

15) Muang Kham - Phonsavan
Nice open terrain boasting the Xieng Khouang Province's natural colours. Roads are excellent, flat, sealed, and fast despite an avg elevation of 1200m above sea level throughout most part of the province. Avg riding speed 90-100km/h.

16) Phonsavan - Phou Khoun
The first 60km is continuous high speed, sealed tarmac roads. Avg riding speed is 100km/h. Subsequently is mountainous winding roads that are wide and sealed. Avg riding speed 50-60km/h.



17) Phou Khoun - Kasi
Excellent scenery of the mountainous roads, especially at one of the viewpoints marked on the GT-Rider map. Traffic is pretty much on this section. Avg riding speed 40-50km/h.

18 ) Kasi - Vang Vieng
Many sections are under road constructions. Generally its flat, straight and boring roads. 80-100km/h.

19) Vang Vieng - Vientiane
Fast, boring section, with some parts under road construction. Avg riding speed 80-100km/h.

[Pauche]

20) Vientiane - Paksan - Ban Lao
Fast highway, sealed good road. Avg riding speed 100-120km/h.

21) Ban Lao - Khoun Kham
Route 8 is quite well labelled with clear distinct road signs in English. Roads are winding and sealed, however there are 3 bridges under construction, so its singled laned and muddy there. Don't miss Sala viewpoints at all cost!!! Avg riding speed 60-80km/h.

22) Khoun Kham - Kong Lor
First 2km is dirt. Subsequently the brand new tarmac road is so perfect, you can take off a jetplane! Avg riding speed 100km/h.


23) Khoun Kham - Lak Sao
This is the road to the Vietnam border. Fast, sealed road, with strong crosswinds so strong that you need to hold your handlebar tight to prevent 'sailing' off the road. Avg riding speed 100km/h.

24) Lak Sao - Nakai
First 20km is some bumpy and dusty dirt road. Subsequently is mostly fast dirt section. Dusty though. Avg riding speed 20-60km/h.



25) Nakai - Gnommalath – Mahaxai
Nice sealed roads, fast and straight. A huge dam is under construction for a major project. Avg riding speed 80km/h.


26) Mahaxai - Thakek
Nice sealed road, wide and spacious. Few sections under construction. Avg riding speed 80-100km/h.

27) Thakek - Seno
Fast highway. Avg riding speed 80-100km/h.

28 ) Seno - Muang Phine
Fast good sealed road. This road connects Thailand and Vietnam. Avg riding speed 80-100km/h.

29 ) Muang Phine - Toumlan
The first 35km was fast dirt road, took me about 1.5hrs, avg riding speed 60km/h.


Then there was a huge river where I had to pay 50k to cross on a single boat where the bike was made to lie down on its side. There was a bridge that was destroyed but had never been rebuilt. Getting up the slope on the other side of the river is tough due to the soft sand and steep gradient.




The next 38km was a hell of a ride. There are steep rocky terrains like you have to do rock climbing on your bike, as well as I had to cross about a dozen river/steams in the process. Most of it are like steep gradient downslope, through the river/streams, and up the rocky/uneven slopes again. There were certain sections where the bamboo terrain was quite narrow and I had encountered a couple of fallen trees in the path. So I had to detour and 'bash' through the scrubs/bushes on the side. It took me 4.5hrs to cover 38km where I had a homestay at a village (18km before Toumlan) as the sky is turning dark, while I rode with a flat rear tyre for about 10km through rocks and rivers. Avg riding speed 10-40km/h.


30) 18km before Toumlan - Saravan
Few river/stream crossings and a little uneven at times. Other than that its good dirt. There is another huge river crossing 28km after Toumlan, however there is a boat with platform here for motorbike crossing. Paid 20k for the boat. Avg riding speed 40-60km/h.



31) Saravan - Pakse
Good sealed road. Avg riding speed 80km/h.

32) Pakse - Champasak
Good sealed straight road. Have to cross the Mekong River to get to Champasak. Paid 10k for a boat ride on a platform. Getting up the slope on the Champasak side is a little tricky with soft sand on the upslope. Avg riding speed 80-100km/h.





33) Champasak - Voun Keum - Don Khong
Good sealed straight road. Have to cross the Mekong River to get to Don Khong. Paid 10k for a boat ride on a car/truck platform. Avg riding speed 80-100km/h.



34) Pakse - Pak Song
Nice sealed road with gentle upslope till 1200m elevation where you can feel the air is getting cooler. Great ride up through the Bolevan Plateau to visit Tat Fane and chill out for a cup of home grown Laos coffee in Pak Song.

[Pauche]

Accomodations

1) Luang Nam Tha
Zuela's Guesthouse & Restaurant: Hot Water (HW), fan, Pte Car Park (Pte CP), T:086 212059, 70k/night



2) Oudom Xai
Vivanh Gusethouse: HW, fan, Under cover parking (UCP), TV, 60k/night





3) Luang Prabang
Vouthivong Guesthouse: HW, fan, Pte CP, TV, 90k/night





4) Vieng Thong
Souksavan Guesthouse: HW, fan, UCP, T:314478, 50k/night





5) Xam Neua
Kheamxam Guesthouse: HW, fan, T:312111, 50k/night

[Pauche]

6) Phonsavan
Koukham Guesthouse: HW, fan, Pte CP, 50k/night





7) Vang Vieng
Dokkhoun 1 Guesthouse: HW, fan, Pte CP, TV, T856-20) 225 4370, 70k/night




8) Vientiane
Ekalath Metropole Hotel: CW, fan, UCP, T: 213420/213421, 60k/night




9) Khoun Kham
Mi Thuna Guesthouse: CW, fan, Pte CP, T:020 2240182, 60k/night

[Pauche]

10) Thakek
Khammoune Mekong Hotel: HW, fan, Pte CP, fridge, cable TV, T:250777, 100k/night






11) Champasak
Khamphoui Guesthouse: HW, fan, Pte CP, T:252700, 30k/night





12) Don Khong
Souk Sabay Guesthosue: CW, fan, Pte CP, very clean, 40k/night




13) Pakse
Thaluang Hotel: HW, a/c, Pte CP, cable TV, 80k/night

[NPNT]

Very very informative. Thanks for sharing.

[nineh]

Very very informative. Thanks for sharing.

+1 !!

Btw, mind sharing how much you spent for the trip ??

cheers

[Pauche]

+1 !!

Btw, mind sharing how much you spent for the trip ??

cheers

Within Laos I spent about $600+ for bike rental and about $600+ for miscellaneous (petrol, food, accomodation, tour, entrance fees, river crossings, shopping, internet cafe, SIM card, etc...)

[Pauche]

#1 - Winding road with sweeping views along Route 3 near Vieng Phoukha


#2 - Nam Dee Waterfalls in Luang Nam Tha province


#3 - Typical scene along Route 2W to Muang Beng


#4 - Sunrise on Route 13 near Oudom Xai


#5 - Limestone Caves in Nong Khiaw


#6 - Wat Phusi in Luang Prabang


#7 - View of Luang Prabang town


#8 - Sunset in Luang Prabang


#9 - Colourful night market in Luang Prabang


#10 - Handicraft items at the night market


#11 - UNESCO World Heritage Town

[Pauche]

#12 - Boat trip on the Nam Ou River


#13 - Visited the Pak Ou Cave


#14 - One of the many buddha statues in Pak Ou Cave


#15 - Fairytale-like Tat Kwang Si Waterfalls


#16 - Another tier of the Tat Kwang Si Waterfalls


#17 - The final and highest tier of the falls


#18 - One of the daredevils jumping off the falls

[Pauche]

#19 - Collecting alms in the morning at 6am in Luang Prabang


#20 - Kind people offering sticky rice for the monks


#21 - Monk at Wat Mai


#22 - Door carvings at Wat Mai


#23 - Wat Xieng Thong


#24 - Wat Ho Pha Bang


#25 - Refine architecture at Wat Ho Pha Bang

[Pauche]

#26 - Superb landscape near Pak Xeng


#27 - At 1000m above sea level, cool temperature & nice breeze


#28 - On a mountainous Route 6 to Sam Neua


#29 - Sam Neua Valley


#30 - The local wet market in Sam Neua


#31 - Vieng Xai is rich in history, and the town is filled with Dok Houm Deng (direct translation = red blood flower)


#32 - Rainbow over Xieng Khuang Province


#33 - Plains of Jars Site 1


#34 - The most scenic section on Route 7, near Nam Chat


#35 - On the most scenic viewpoint along Route 13, near Phou Khoun


#36 - Winding roads skirting around the mountains on Route 13

[Pauche]

#37 - Tham Jang Limestone Cave


#38 - Magnificent view of Vang Vieng from an opening in Tham Jang Cave


#39 - Green blue lagoon at the Tham Phu Kham scared cave


#40 - A 200m steep climb into Tham Phu Kham Cave to see the reclining buddha


#41 - Water sliding, tarzan swing, tubing, canoeing, and all day boozing-fun at Tam Nong


#42 - If you can't afford a trip to the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, the Patuxai is a look-alike


#43 - Ceiling of the Patuxai


#44 - Vientiane in mid-day


#45 - Pha Tat Luang - A symbol of the Buddhist religion and Lao sovereignty


#46 - High-walled cloister with tiny windows as a defence against invaders in the 19th century


#47 - Looks like a gilded missle cluster from a distance

[Pauche]

#48 - Sunrise in Vientiane


#49 - That Dam - Stupa sitting at the centre of a quiet roundabout


#50 - Painting for sale along the Mekong riverfront in Vientiane


#51 - Limestone Caves along the Hin Boun Valley


#52 - Entrance of the Kong Lor Cave


#53 - Limestone structure within a 7km deep Kong Lor Cave


#54 - French-era shophouses in Thakek


#55 - Sunset in Thakek


#56 - Sunset on the Mekong river bordering Thakek (Laos) and Nakon Phanom (Thailand)

[Pauche]

#57 - Wat Phu Champasak is an ancient Khmer temple that has been worshipped since the mid 5th century


#58 - UNESCO declaring the complex a World Heritage Site in 2001


#59 - Modern and traditional monks


#60 - Uo Moung is a Tomo temple ruin built in the late 9th century, believed to be related to the Wat Phu


#61 - Khon Phapheng Falls is the largest and most awesome falls on the entire Mekong River


#62 - Spider taken at Tat Si Kwang


#63 - Typical street scene in Thakek and other parts of Laos


#64 - Portable 'mama-shop' captured at the Bolevan Plateau in Pak Song

[Pauche]

#65 - The best porridge I've eaten - at the morning market of Luang Prabang


#66 - Danish pastry at Bakery Restaurant, Luang Prabang


#67 - Seafood pizza at Bakery Restaurant, Luang Prabang


#68 - Cream of broccoli at La Cave des Chateaux, Vientiane


#69 - A refreshing cup of home grown Lao coffee from the Bolevan Plateau at Pak Song

[Pauche]

#70 - Old lady with baby in Luang Nam Tha province


#71 - Cute little girl at Pak Ou Cave... she demanded for 'photo money' after this shot


#72 - Rice seller at the morning market in Luang Prabang


#73 - Hard day at work, Luang Prabang


#74 - Hmong New Year festival in Vieng Xai


#75 - Playing ball game to build up the cohesiveness among themselves


#76 - Cute little girls in traditional Hmong dressing


#77 - Baby in the back, at Sam Neua market


#78 - Kids with a home-made skateboard when Playstation doesn't exists


#79 - Kids with cool poses, in Sam Neua


#80 - These kids laughed at me trying to get my motorbike down a steep slope of soft silky sand


#81 - Most memorable moment - My homestay with these villagers near Toumlan when my journey was delayed due to a flat rear tyre.



-------------------------------- THE END ----------

[PaLmEr]

beautiful pictures as usual!

[Mark C.]

Super nice pictures & review, Paul.
The cars are left hand drive in Laos, so its quite confusing at start.
But road there are more fun & challenging than MHS.

[Pauche]

Thanks palmer.

Mark Chai lao-da, the roads & sceneries on Route 3,6,7 are simply the best around Laos. I think a super-motard will do the job best around the tight mountainous corners.

[racingter]

hi pauche,
any info about exiting from Vientiane via the friendship bridge? as i am planning to enter from Houei Xai any advise?

[Pauche]

hi pauche,
any info about exiting from Vientiane via the friendship bridge? as i am planning to enter from Houei Xai any advise?

hi there.... u can find out loads of info on GT-rider with regards to the latest updates on Laos. sorry, I dont have info on the friendship bridge as I didnt exit Laos from that border.

[racingter]

ok thanks...will update here if i can cross..in april 2009.

[ganman]

Muang Phine - Toumlan... certainly seems like a ride from hell. Great Pictures and I think it must have been an amazing experience.

[ngekngek]

hi Pauche,
Excellent adventure, don't mind sharing what photographic equipment you use during the trip and what case to store the equipment. Beautiful and breathtaking pictures!!!!

LT

[Pauche]

Muang Phine - Toumlan... certainly seems like a ride from hell. Great Pictures and I think it must have been an amazing experience.

thanks Gan.... I'm sure you will enjoy cycling there as I've met many angmoh cyclists who backpacks around Laos.

hi Pauche,
Excellent adventure, don't mind sharing what photographic equipment you use during the trip and what case to store the equipment. Beautiful and breathtaking pictures!!!!

LT

I'm on a 40D, 10-22, 17-55, 70-200, 60macro & 580ex - all in my crumpler bag. if u want a secure, dust proof, waterproof storage box, the best you can get is http://www.pelican.com/

Cheers!

[FB666Y]

Good ride - plus a treasure trove of information.
All that info is gold - lets hope people out there make good use of it.

So that road into China is in good repair - who will be the first to sneak into China.

[belgarathc]

Long ride! Excellent photos as always.

[Ones_Co]

power pack

[doubl3mint]

amazing, simply amazing. i've been to laos, but i've never seen it like you have.

could i ask where you obtained the resources for planning this trip, and whether you had a fixed route with every destination and accomodation mapped out, or did you just play by ear?

[i12know]

I've just returned from a LAO Trip on with my SUV. Took me a good 3 weeks to drive up and around. Total return trip was 6000KMs.

Border crossing was interesting, as the officials did not have experience with Singapore Registered Cars.

SGP is the only ASEAN Country that has gone fully paperless with Car registration documentations. This proof to be an efficient and GREEN way, but it is certainly not friendly with it comes to border crossing.

First, I was asked for the Car's log book! When I presented my papers, I was initially rejected by the customs, stating that it is not "proper". I do not know how many hours was spent talking to him... But finally, my perservance paid off and was granted a 7 day import permit.

What a relief!

LAO has some 40,000KMs of road network, of which only some 4,000KMs are paved. The rest are dirt track, some impassable during the rainy seasons.

I'll be returning to LAO soon, this time, with my GS.

I believe that I have finally found a little GEM is S.E.A. that I truly enjoyed.

Go visit before the ways of the WEST errode it.

[Rave]

Pauche,

Your photos and review are fantastic! That must have been an amazing trip and the pics you have are an excellent reminder. I'm most impressed!

Cheers!

[yem_paul]

So that road into China is in good repair - who will be the first to sneak into China.

I must say the stretch from HuayXai to Natuey was the best road I've travelled in Laos. Well paved, well constructed, enjoyable ride. China? Oh well that's another story eh?

[ZZR600]

wow your pictures is like national geographic la.

[Titus0922]

What cam and lens used.? Thanks. NICE....

[Azahari]

upz for the trip n super nice pics. pictures speaks a thousand words..

[mak]

always wanted to go for these kinda trips.. but sadly no kakis *sigh*

[osxunix]

Very nice picture and thks for sharing!