Rebuilding an R1 Engine

[Marcheline]

Managed to acquire a used R1 2001 engine from a fellow forumer and haven't really gotten down to splitting it apart due to my exams. Well, exams are over now! Will update my progress as i get along. Items on agenda: 1. Piston Rings 2. Rod Bearings 3. Inspect Gear teeth (particularly the 2nd gear) 4. Install new Clutch Basket and assorted plates 5. Replace Timing Chain 6. Valve Clearance My current R1 engine has a cracked block, releasing fumes from the crankcase which cannot be routed to the airbox. It's burning engine oil at a rough rate of 100ml per 2000km. In layman speak, my bike smokes a lot at stop-lights as the unfiltered smoke is routed to the bottom. I smell of engine oil after every ride. Anyhoo.. welcome to my room, pardon the mess. my cat is sleeping in that box on the mattress: Engine with the cylinder head cover removed. Double camshafts with the cam covers. One cam controls the intake (total of 12 valves) and the other controls the exhaust (8 valves). It's a 20 valve engine. Headache.. Cylinder head removed, with 4 piston heads visible. The black parts are the carbon and unburnt petrol that have to be scraped off. The gap between the combustion chamber and the outer block is the water jacket where the coolant flows during operation. Engine with the visible cylinder head and valve train contained within it. The clutch assembly on the left and the timing chain visible on the right, with the pickup rotor. Part of the con-rod is visible thru the peep-hole. Not sure about the condition of the clutch on this bike yet, but i already purchased a new assembly. Currently need to get a flywheel holding tool to hold the clutch basket and prevent it from rotating to remove the other rotary parts of the engine. Will update once there's progress. Stay tuned!

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[nuad]

big respect for this monster task! (i think) not much people in singapore, including me , dare to do a DIY heavy duty proj like this , valve work seems to be very precise and tricky...

all the best ! ups!

[dragonforce]

to you.. locals rarely do this.. many of us rely on our mech to do it..

[Marcheline]

That's what I thought too. Locals are turned off from such work as 87% of us stay in HDB units, equating to no garages to do such DIY tasks. It then simply becomes a matter of will. The learning value is priceless though.

[JbAtRaCeR]

That's what I thought too. Locals are turned off from such work as 87% of us stay in HDB units, equating to no garages to do such DIY tasks. It then simply becomes a matter of will. The learning value is priceless though.

Upz for you bro...I'm also looking forward to rebuild my cbr1100xx engine in a few years time in my room also since i dont have any garage. Kind of like a hobby...slowly rebulit the engine bit by bit.

I've rebuild 6 cylinder diesel engines at my workplace...now looking forward into rebuilding motorcycle engines as a hobby. Do have the service manual in hand bro,save lots of time and $$ ...

[gwzc_mk2]

wah bro. how much u bought the engine for?

[starr]

wow. you must have great knowledge in engines and stuffs. all the best for ur big project bro. will definitely be waiting for more updates!

[Marcheline]

wah bro. how much u bought the engine for?

In the hundreds range.

wow. you must have great knowledge in engines and stuffs. all the best for ur big project bro. will definitely be waiting for more updates!

Not that great a knowledge. Just some excerpts here and there from reading. I guess anyone with the want and will would be able to do it, no matter what their background is. Updates are gonna take some time. Just called Hong Leong Singapore and they said that they don't bring in the engine tools for sale.

No luck at Auto-Machinery either. Guess it's back to ordering the tools online or checking the hardware shops cluster near the industrial estates.

[dragonforce]

That's what I thought too. Locals are turned off from such work as 87% of us stay in HDB units, equating to no garages to do such DIY tasks. It then simply becomes a matter of will. The learning value is priceless though.

yup. to the extend of changing engine oil. if i had another bike or even a car.. i would want to try to do alot of diy stuff.. if cannot do it in a day still can have own transport.. another problem is living in a hdb.. if you forget to bring some tools or equips out.. you got to leave all your stuff you have dismantled in the car park/ void deck.. unless do what you have done, bring the whole assembly to your room.. but its going to mess up my already messy room and pis* my parents off.

[JbAtRaCeR]

In the hundreds range.

Not that great a knowledge. Just some excerpts here and there from reading. I guess anyone with the want and will would be able to do it, no matter what their background is. Updates are gonna take some time. Just called Hong Leong Singapore and they said that they don't bring in the engine tools for sale.

No luck at Auto-Machinery either. Guess it's back to ordering the tools online or checking the hardware shops cluster near the industrial estates.

Bro..maybe you want to try shops at jalan besar. I still prefer getting at Lok Yang(near international road),maybe becoz near my workplace and they stock more stuff.

Btw bro some special tools you dont need to buy,juz need some creativity.

[Phang]

Very impressive bro Marcheline

bro JbAtRaCeR, I think he needs this

[Marcheline]

Yup Phang! That is what I need, but the generator flywheel holding tool would do just fine. I'm contemplating on ordering one from Pitposse as they have stock on the flywheel puller too. It's an M16 x 1.5 Hardened Bolt. But shipment from them to Vpost, then Vpost to here.. That's gonna be 2 weeks.

I just came back from Lok Yang, they don't have it. Jalan Besar next. Anyone has any idea where i can find something like this here in Singapore?



My mistake. Should have ordered the tools in first. I think I'm gonna tie a string to the entire circumference of the flywheel (in and out) and we'll see how it goes. At 50Nm, I think it'll just snap. If only I had a metal welder and some spare materials.. This tool looks simple enough to weld together.

[shiraz]

Looking good! How many KMs were on the engine? BTW, might as well do the cam bearings when you are in there. (Don't know how these engines run anyway!)

It's magical how these Japanese guys can make 20 valves work together at such a speed!

Germans did that with cars but look at the price difference!

[Phang]

From my experience of buying uncommon tools/parts in Singapore. Unless you know exactly where to get it from, most of the time buying from overseas is more cost/time effective.

I am really tired of hopping from shop to shop. If you factor in the time, parking charges, petro and etc that you spent hunting down an uncommon tool/part, international delivery charges seems reasonable

[Marcheline]

Looking good! How many KMs were on the engine? BTW, might as well do the cam bearings when you are in there. (Don't know how these engines run anyway!)

It's magical how these Japanese guys can make 20 valves work together at such a speed!

Germans did that with cars but look at the price difference!

I'm not really sure. Seller claimed he bought it from the States at 9000 miles. Which is why I'm tearing it up to check and just replace the important pieces while its apart. How's your pink Harley chugging along?

From my experience of buying uncommon tools/parts in Singapore. Unless you know exactly where to get it from, most of the time buying from overseas is more cost/time effective.

I am really tired of hopping from shop to shop. If you factor in the time, parking charges, petro and etc that you spent hunting down an uncommon tool/part, international delivery charges seems reasonable

Great advice. Think I'll just go ahead and order from Pitposse. Btw, what's with the mid finger on the Zephyr, Phang? Haha. Have you gotten around to tearing into your engine?

[S750WP]

I'm not really sure. Seller claimed he bought it from the States at 9000 miles. Which is why I'm tearing it up to check and just replace the important pieces while its apart. How's your pink Harley chugging along?


Great advice. Think I'll just go ahead and order from Pitposse. Btw, what's with the mid finger on the Zephyr, Phang? Haha. Have you gotten around to tearing into your engine?

I have DIY a flywheel holding tool with 2 straps of metal, idea from haynes manual, I have not used it though, you can borrow it and see if it work.

[MIGHTY MAX]

nice work............

[FB666Y]

For the clutch boss holding tool you might want to try the shops that sell aftermarket slipper clutches. I know Sporting use to sell STM slipper clutches, and they shold have the tool. You could also try Mezzo in Kaki Bukit. Not sure if they will sel it to you but its worth a try - or you could ask to borrow it.

From prior experience most shops will not use the tool when dismantling the clutch basket. I burned two sets of clutches on my 04 R1 and on both occasions the tool was not used. If youre friendly with any shops you might ask the mechanic how they manage without the tool.

[JbAtRaCeR]

From prior experience most shops will not use the tool when dismantling the clutch basket. I burned two sets of clutches on my 04 R1 and on both occasions the tool was not used. If youre friendly with any shops you might ask the mechanic how they manage without the tool.

Yes bro agree...it comes to your creativity...Like on a diesel engine cylinder head. To remove the valve keepers,i simply use a socket and 6 inch extension,knock the extension using a hammer. ViolA`~! keepers pop out.

[Marcheline]

For the clutch boss holding tool you might want to try the shops that sell aftermarket slipper clutches. I know Sporting use to sell STM slipper clutches, and they shold have the tool. You could also try Mezzo in Kaki Bukit. Not sure if they will sel it to you but its worth a try - or you could ask to borrow it.

From prior experience most shops will not use the tool when dismantling the clutch basket. I burned two sets of clutches on my 04 R1 and on both occasions the tool was not used. If youre friendly with any shops you might ask the mechanic how they manage without the tool.

From what I heard, an impact wrench would throw it right off. But I don't have access to one, and a reliable electric impact would set me back by at least $300. I've messaged S750WP regarding his flywheel holder, we'll see how it goes. Project's stalled for two days now.. And the semester break's coming to an end!

Yes bro agree...it comes to your creativity...Like on a diesel engine cylinder head. To remove the valve keepers,i simply use a socket and 6 inch extension,knock the extension using a hammer. ViolA`~! keepers pop out.

Idea! I was wondering how to remove that valve cotter and spring from the cylinder head without that "special" tool to push on the circumference of the springs. Now I know.. Thanks bro.

[Phang]

Yes, an impact wrench will undo the fastener without some form of holding/locking tool. But you will need to hold it still if you are using a torque wrench to reinstall it at the later stage. Unless you are planning to put it back using the same impact wrench

As for valve cotters, again, you still need a valve spring compressor to put them back

[Terrible One]

Good to have u and guys like Phang and S750WP to keep up motivated.. Cheers

[JbAtRaCeR]

As for valve cotters, again, you still need a valve spring compressor to put them back

Ouh ya...forget to mention..

[shiraz]

I'm not really sure. Seller claimed he bought it from the States at 9000 miles. Which is why I'm tearing it up to check and just replace the important pieces while its apart. How's your pink Harley chugging along?

Pink? Nooo.. It's red!

9000 miles is too low! I would scrutinise everything in there! Since it's an R1, it might have been used only on the race track which would explain the low mileage. Otherwise, It's underutilised!

[ronz]

actually 9000 miles is alot right? come to think of it. miles and km

[Terrible One]

actually 9000 miles is alot right? come to think of it. miles and km

Multiply by 1.609 to KM

[hanxx]

Wow,respect!

[spidey77]

no updates???

[Marcheline]

Still waiting for the tools to arrive from America. Its the holiday season, unfortunately. Should be at my door-step by this week or next.

[Phang]

I have a shipment from Germany sent on the 15th, now the 2 carton boxes are in the middle of nowhere. Germany to Singapore usually takes 5~6 working days, I hope my stuffs can find its way to Singapore.. 15days and counting..

[Marcheline]

I have a shipment from Germany sent on the 15th, now the 2 carton boxes are in the middle of nowhere. Germany to Singapore usually takes 5~6 working days, I hope my stuffs can find its way to Singapore.. 15days and counting..

The tracking no. doesn't state the exact location of the shipment? My package is still stuck at the VPostUSA office in the States. This is taking way too long, even though its the holiday period.

[Phang]

DHL tracking website is not as detail as FEDEX/UPS/EMS.

Anyway, the parcels had reached Singapore on the new year eve. Stuck in Singapore Post since yesterday as no one is working today, I believe.

I have an item matched, paid and ready to ship at vPost Oregon today. See whose will reach Singapore first

[Hell Angel]

Do keep us update on your progress.Hardly see any local guys DIY on engine component.

[Marcheline]

Woohoo! Should be getting it this week.

[Marcheline]

What a day! Took long enough to arrive.. Started operating on the engine as soon as the tools arrived.



The tools were ordered from Pitposse (www.pitposse.com). The items were shipped from the merchant within 5 hours of my order, but took 5 days via UPS Ground to reach VPost. No hiccups, thankfully. Ordered in the following:

Valve Spring Compressor to remove the valves and clean them.


Clutch/Flywheel Holding Tool. Go figure.


Piston Ring Compressor


Piston Pin Puller (Don't ask me why it's labelled as "Pistin". Beats me too)


Flywheel Puller



The flywheel holding tool worked like a charm and really made a difference as the pick-up rotor was successfully removed. The cinder block was discarded along the road-side, so yours truly duly picked it up.


And then the hiccup came soon enough. First the flywheel puller M15 bolt thread stripped. I realised this when the flywheel (correct technical term: Generator Rotor) started turning eccentrically as the bolt was progressing inwards at an angle. Yamaha bikes, particularly the R1 are known to have a problem of the generator rotor being stuck to the end of the crankshaft. This was one nasty bit*h.

Notice the shiny portion at the front of the bolt. This warrants a visit to Poye Huat to get the Grade 8 bolt they have.

The last straw came when the ratchet broke apart with a loud "Takkk!"


Another day, folks.

[Marcheline]

It's out! As said before, my puller thread stripped. My uncle visited my grandmother at my house and saw what I was doing. He took one look at the puller I bought from the States, went back home and came back with his puller which he used on his Yamaha FZR 15 years ago!

The puller on the left is the stripped puller I bought from the States. The one on the right is the puller he machined at his workplace more than a decade ago!

The chamfer at the end of the puller was what made the difference. The crankshaft is tapered and the chamfer fit snugly into it. With the puller I bought, the end was rubbing against the outer shaft and didn't progress inwards linearly, causing the threads to strip.


Before the bit*h of a flywheel was off.


The result! It came off with a loud "TRRAAKKKKK". The stator is visible in the picture. This is gonna be rewound at an electrical shop along Kelantan Lane.


The front end of the engine is filled with the AIS (Air Induction System), which was removed at the start, coolant tubes, oil filter and water pump.


Performing some tidy-up, removing the oil filter.


Water-pump assembly removed.


The before picture of the clutch with the pressure plate still on it


After the pressure plate is removed and all friction/clutch plates are removed. This is the clutch housing. The nut in the centre is the clutch boss nut and it was fixed tight as hell!

Went around the Tuas industrial estate and found a long hollow metal pipe on an empty field. Used it for leverage and out comes the clutch boss nut.


Stay tuned! Work can now progress as planned cos that darn flywheel is off!

[Marcheline]

The clutch housing, dismantled into its individual components.


Surprise surprise! Look what I found behind the clutch housing. It's a broken piece of clutch plate. Surprisingly, all the clutch plates were not missing the broken piece. I would have to assume the previous user of the engine abused the clutch for it to actually break, then changed the plates without noticing the broken piece.



The oil/water pump drive chain is visible in the picture. The small gear at the top right is connected to the starter motor. Getting a clearer picture of how the motorcycle engine works yet?


With the clutch assembly and the timing/pick-up rotor assembly removed, the engine looks much cleaner.



Now on to the shift shaft. This in connected to the gear change lever which we always use to shift in between gears using our left foot.


Taking the shift shaft cover off.


With the shift shaft removed. The funny looking gear in the picture is pretty interesting! When you turn it counter-clockwise by hand and it reaches the limit, a shaft (not visible) starts to move out from the block by a bit.

Turn it clockwise and the shaft keeps jutting out bit by bit. I'm wondering how the mechanism works. Will find out soon enough!


There are now no more components left to remove. The next step is to start tearing into the engine from the bottom! Turning it upside down.


The oil pan.



What a tiring day! Tearing from the bottom will mean an assortment of oil tubes and a gazillion more parts before the entire engine block is split to reach the gears (inspection of dogs and slots) and the pistons (ring replacement).

[Kutrax]

Dude although i don't ride R1..
i really enjoy reading the post..thanks for sharing.

hope everything goes well

[firefox87]

gosh! that's impressive! do you have prior engineering experience or anything of that sort prior to this? i'm thinking of doing the same thing but i'm lost on what to do first. the only thing i did is to find the manual for my bike from the internet and read it. what's next?

[h4hahak1m]

Haynes manual would help if u're new.

Marcheline: Very good work there

[Marcheline]

gosh! that's impressive! do you have prior engineering experience or anything of that sort prior to this? i'm thinking of doing the same thing but i'm lost on what to do first. the only thing i did is to find the manual for my bike from the internet and read it. what's next?

Experience, no. But I did study engineering in Polytechnic and I'm doing my degree currently. Read up on forums, particularly American ones, read thru the manual and summon a lil bit of courage to just go ahead and get it done! If you don't understand what a specific part does (e.g Crankshaft, Camshaft), just google it! It's the information age anyways.

If you're riding a Japanese bike, the manuals are usually idiot-proof.

Things are not looking so rosy now. After removing the oil pan and peeking through the bottom with a torch, I'm beginning to suspect the engine spun a rod bearing on the 4th cylinder. Will update later..

[firefox87]

Experience, no. But I did study engineering in Polytechnic and I'm doing my degree currently. Read up on forums, particularly American ones, read thru the manual and summon a lil bit of courage to just go ahead and get it done! If you don't understand what a specific part does (e.g Crankshaft, Camshaft), just google it! It's the information age anyways.

If you're riding a Japanese bike, the manuals are usually idiot-proof.

Things are not looking so rosy now. After removing the oil pan and peeking through the bottom with a torch, I'm beginning to suspect the engine spun a rod bearing on the 4th cylinder. Will update later..

that was what i'm thinking. anything unsure of just need to be googled. armed with a manual, i really thought it might be possible to overhaul an engine on my own. thanks for showing to me that it's possible. now all i need to do is to strap myself up with the right tools and equipments! like you've said, japanese bike's manual are indeed idiot proof. my only complain is the mix of different languages all over the manual.

a 200 or 400 cc engine seems decent enough. but an r1 for your first time? woah! that's a major feat! let's hope the engine will be good to go soon! btw, you bought only the engine right? then, how are you gonna use the engine later on?

[ulysses_sc]

Respect to you for attempting an in-line 4 on your first overhaul attempt! I am not so ambitious, and chose to start with a simple air-cooled single cylinder XR250.

Please do keep this thread running. I will be a good read for those who are simply terrified of internal combustion engines.

[Marcheline]

that was what i'm thinking. anything unsure of just need to be googled. armed with a manual, i really thought it might be possible to overhaul an engine on my own. thanks for showing to me that it's possible. now all i need to do is to strap myself up with the right tools and equipments! like you've said, japanese bike's manual are indeed idiot proof. my only complain is the mix of different languages all over the manual.

a 200 or 400 cc engine seems decent enough. but an r1 for your first time? woah! that's a major feat! let's hope the engine will be good to go soon! btw, you bought only the engine right? then, how are you gonna use the engine later on?

By strapping it onto my bike frame, just like you strapping yourself with the right tools?


I'll tackle the problem of performing the engine swap in my carpark once I get there.

Respect to you for attempting an in-line 4 on your first overhaul attempt! I am not so ambitious, and chose to start with a simple air-cooled single cylinder XR250.

Please do keep this thread running. I will be a good read for those who are simply terrified of internal combustion engines.

It's terrifying alrite, but once its open, how it works starts becoming much clearer. Remember to perform proper bag-and-tag of the different components, nuts and bolts. Otherwise you're gonna have a really exciting time assembling it back together!

[Marcheline]

The oil level sensor.


The look of the oil pan from the inside. Sorry I covered Gwendolyn's huge milky assets, there was no more space on the newspaper.


Nevermind the o-ring. What worries me are the pieces of metal in the oil strainer. Some are as big as 2mm across. I also noticed some scuff marks by shining a torch inside, but won't know for sure until the bottom half of the engine is out.


The water and oil pump assembly. On the left, coolant is pressurised and pumped around the system. On the right, oil is similarly pumped around the system through a system of tubes. Logically, they do not mix, but are driven by the same sprocket, connected to the gear system.


The belly of the beast, gutted and ready for lower half removal. Before that, it was a myriad of tubings, relief valve, pump assemblies, strainer etc.

[Wayang]

absolutely love the pics.. kudos to u marcheline..

[Marcheline]

To separate the lower half of the crank-case, 28 bolts of 10 different types have to be undone systematically. Yamaha numbered them 1 - 28 (embossed in the crankcase itself) and it has to be loosened in decreasing order, 1/4 turn at a time! That took a while.

Lower crankcase removed.


The crankshaft with the con-rods connected to the pistons underneath.


The transmission or tranny in short. Notice some of the blue loc-tite in the thread. I'm fine with blue, the red ones are a real pain in the ass! The bonds require nothing short of a nuclear bomb in order to shake loose the bolt!


Bag-and-tag. This is gonna be a challenge to assemble, having to make sure every single part goes back into the engine. Inside every zip-lock bag are numerous smaller plastic bags.


Updates are going to be a lil slower from now. School term's starting tomorrow and I'm having my industrial attachment for this current semester.

[areal]

woww...really interesting to see the intricate internal workings of the engine revealed!!
kudos to u for attempting a project of this scale. thanks for all the clear pics too, its pretty awesome!

all the best for ur IA btw~

[Marcheline]

The teardown is more or less complete. Pistons have been removed.

The 4 con-rod end caps removed, revealing the pistons in the cylinder. The caps had to be knocked out softly with a mallet. With that, the crankshaft is removed. The driven gear on the top left was simply lifted out from the assembly. The pistons cannot be simply removed from hereon. They have to come out from the top of the cylinder, not the bottom.



The numerous un-threaded holes you see on all the parts are the oil galleries. That is where the oil flows to lubricate the bearings and other critical components of the engine.

With the driven gear removed, the drive gear is visible. The two parts sticking out are the two shift forks.


The end caps have to be installed in their original positions. Hence, the markings. The journal bearings will be removed and replaced when its time to purchase the parts.


Overturning the engine again. The styrofoam pieces that you keep seeing in the pictures all came from a toy which was bought for my niece.

The cylinder head is then removed to accomodate removal of the pistons.


And they're out! Somehow, this photo reminds me of the death-pods from War of The Worlds.


The upper part of the engine, separated from the bottom. All that's left is a T30 Torx socket to remove the drive gears, which I will have to purchase soon. Should cost about $5 at most.


Basically you can see how the engine works. See the pistons? Those are providing the motive force, transmitted to the crankshaft which rotates and turns the clutch on the top right-hand of the photo. The clutch is connected to the drive gears, which in turn is connected to the driven gears at the top. This then outputs to the front sprocket!


That's a Cotton-On shirt btw!

Next on the list:
Parts purchase and assembly.

[Wayang]

this thread is a MUST sticky..