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Thread: Kawasaki KRR150 Riders

  1. #51
    terry84
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    my bike always start no problem the rpm will stay constant at about 1.25 without having to throttle to stay but when i start moving to the next junction to stop, u guys noe lar either u kick neutral or maybe just down to gear one and clutch in rite? for me the rpm will be like suddenly dropp all the way to less than 1 and bye bye to the engine... damm pek cek and tis problem is only recently one. when i first collect my bike no such thing thks guys

  2. #52
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    mayb is yr bike didnt warm up properly,if nt try tune yr idling higher loh

     

     
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    mayb is yr bike didnt warm up properly,if nt try tune yr idling higher loh
    er ... wat's the proper way to warm up the bike?

    cos there was a couple of times the engine went to sleep again a few secs after starting the bike. so far, i avoided this by opening throttle and holding at 2000-3000 rpm for around 10 secs after starting the bike. but dunno like that correct or not
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    Aug 2003 - Oct 2004: Kawasaki KRR150
    Oct 2004 - Feb 2006: Honda CBR400RRR
    Oct 2005 - Jun 2006: Honda Wave R
    Nov 2005 - ???: Honda CBR1100XX Super Blackbird
    Akan Datang: Suzuki GSX-R600K6

  4. #54
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    u try open the choke when u start yr bike n try nt to open the throttle

  5. #55
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    [quote]my bike always start no problem the rpm will stay constant at about 1.25 without having to throttle to stay but when i start moving to the next junction to stop, u guys noe lar either u kick neutral or maybe just down to gear one and clutch in rite? for me the rpm will be like suddenly dropp all the way to less than 1 and bye bye to the engine... damm pek cek and tis problem is only recently one. when i first collect my bike no such thing
    I've no problem with my bike... the way u describe ... i also have no idea... perharps u might want to bring down to yr motordiam to check. I am using the stock water battery though.
    Nike - Just do it!

  6. #56
    DaXiGuA
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    [quote]my bike always start no problem the rpm will stay constant at about 1.25 without having to throttle to stay but when i start moving to the next junction to stop, u guys noe lar either u kick neutral or maybe just down to gear one and clutch in rite? for me the rpm will be like suddenly dropp all the way to less than 1 and bye bye to the engine... damm pek cek and tis problem is only recently one. when i first collect my bike no such thing


    i usually encounter this problem when i need to change spark plug...

  7. #57
    Weilong
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    encounter some problems with krr.........when i m in gear 2 ....i can feel that after i turn my trottle the fuel cant seem to inject like a bit slow ....feel like only certain fuel is injected n when open throttle more feel the fuel injected bit my bit.....i think problem with oil jet????any krr riders encouter this?
    go bike shop do jetting...i had that prob before ..

  8. #58
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    er ... wat's the proper way to warm up the bike?

    cos there was a couple of times the engine went to sleep again a few secs after starting the bike. so far, i avoided this by opening throttle and holding at 2000-3000 rpm for around 10 secs after starting the bike. but dunno like that correct or not
    for me, in the mornings, i just on the choke and start the bike for a few mins, then before i move off, off the choke and go

  9. #59
    Weilong
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    hey, what's the max RPM u can drag for gear two? i only tried until 6k RPM, then i change liao, go until 6 like damn rough already.


    go bike shop do jetting...i had that prob before ..


    and one more thing guys, must keep sanding yr "muffer"(whichever way u spell it). It rusts all the time, see rust already must sand it and spray with High temp black spray hor!
    never encountered before...

  10. #60
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    thanks, kawa and DaXiGuA ... will try it tomorrow morning
    Adventure
    Getting lost is part of the fun


    Aug 2003 - Oct 2004: Kawasaki KRR150
    Oct 2004 - Feb 2006: Honda CBR400RRR
    Oct 2005 - Jun 2006: Honda Wave R
    Nov 2005 - ???: Honda CBR1100XX Super Blackbird
    Akan Datang: Suzuki GSX-R600K6

  11. #61
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    thanks, kawa and DaXiGuA ... will try it tomorrow morning
    anytime bro
    KAWA KAWA

     

     
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    mayb is yr bike didnt warm up properly,if nt try tune yr idling higher loh
    i tried on the idling already, but same thing even if i tune it up to more than 1.5 but last time i first get the bike no such thing one ley..looks like i have to bring it to motor diam check liao.. the feeling of every morning stopping on junctions and somemore need to rev rev and the best part every other motorist looks at you like a p-plate rookie trying to loot with them ok another enquire here, its been one mth liao and my 2t still alot only use like half only.. i bery scared wait piston jam. anyone knows how to tune 2t intake??

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    u welcome

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    anyone knows how much engine oil is needed for KRR? thought of buying from elsewhere and get the shop to replace for me ... but not sure how much oil is needed each time.

    is it true that gear oil is better than 4T engine oil for this bike?

    thanks in advance!
    Adventure
    Getting lost is part of the fun


    Aug 2003 - Oct 2004: Kawasaki KRR150
    Oct 2004 - Feb 2006: Honda CBR400RRR
    Oct 2005 - Jun 2006: Honda Wave R
    Nov 2005 - ???: Honda CBR1100XX Super Blackbird
    Akan Datang: Suzuki GSX-R600K6

  15. #65
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    anyone knows how much engine oil is needed for KRR? thought of buying from elsewhere and get the shop to replace for me ... but not sure how much oil is needed each time.

    is it true that gear oil is better than 4T engine oil for this bike?

    thanks in advance!
    any fully syncnetic 4t is good enuff, usually ard 18-22
    check ur spark plug too
    the 4t used is around 750 ml i guess

  16. #66
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    Terry,
    about your problem, in my opinion, should be 2 problems. One is the idling, and the other is the clutch. Your idling should be ok. Mine is about 1K RPM only with headlights on, so yours should have no problem. The other thing I can think of is your clutch lever is loose.

    Look at your clutch lever. At the lever end is a knob or something, just look around. It's used to adjust the clutch cable tension. If the knob there is loose, you will be like half-engaging engine power; just adjust the tension properly and tighten the knob.

    By the way, in case you didn't know, KRR no battery also can start the bike. Once started, the engine electrical generator takes over, and the battery, well, practically just sit there being charged up, no other use.

    Some more tips. Dun try to throttle when you start. Not good for the engine. Use your choke. Switch on for about 3~5 seconds and then kick start. You may need to twist a bit of throttle, but just a bit will do, and off your headlights before you kickstart; the head lights can sap quite a bit of power from you spark plug. So dun start with your headlights on.

    After you succeeded starting, leave the choke on for another 2~3 seconds for the engine RPM to pick up to above 2K RPM. Once you get past 2K RPM, engine should have no problem sustaining itself; switch off choke. At this point, dun try to switch on your headlight yet. Leave the bike to warm up naturally; dun throttle. About a minute or more later, can move off liao. Of course, you can switch on your headlights at this time.

    Hope these helps. Enjoy with your companion.




    i tried on the idling already, but same thing even if i tune it up to more than 1.5 but last time i first get the bike no such thing one ley..looks like i have to bring it to motor diam check liao.. the feeling of every morning stopping on junctions and somemore need to rev rev and the best part every other motorist looks at you like a p-plate rookie trying to loot with them ok another enquire here, its been one mth liao and my 2t still alot only use like half only.. i bery scared wait piston jam. anyone knows how to tune 2t intake??
    I am a hermit, looking for my own island ...

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    Actually hor, the volume of 4T oil needed is machined onto the gearbox plate of your engine. It's somethign like 0.82l or something. One bottle (1litre) should be more than enough, with a bit of extra left for you to top up when the level gets a bit low.
    I am a hermit, looking for my own island ...

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    Hi guys,
    I have posted this question before, but I think I have to ask again. Has anyone here ever changed your headlight before ? I have a problem with my headlights; the reflector keeps melting.

    First time is due to accident, my headlight bulb glass broke, burnt a hole in the reflector unit. So bought one from Ah Boy. But this time changed to blue H4 bulb. The blue bulb produces nice whiter light. But I think it's hotter than those normal ones, so my reflector started to melt again, until there was a hole in the top of the reflector unit. Then one day, it rained and the rain got through the hole and touched the bulb I think. The whole bulb exploded like a gunshot.

    So thought maybe the reflector cannot tahan the blue bulb. Went back to buy another reflector and a normal H4 bulb. To my dismay, the reflector unit started to show symptoms of melting again. I think the reflector from Ah Boy cannot be used one. So lousy. They told me is original one some more.

    Just came back from outside. There's a KRR with a reflector that I saw before on another KRR using blue H4 bulb. The reflector is white in colour, and doesn't have those silver mirrored reflective surface. Has anyone here used this type of reflector before ? Can you please tell me where to get that reflector ? Or can anyone tell me where to get a reflector unit that doesn't melt like those from Ah Boy ?

    Thanks.
    I am a hermit, looking for my own island ...

  19. #69
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    Terry,
    about your problem, in my opinion, should be 2 problems. One is the idling, and the other is the clutch. Your idling should be ok. Mine is about 1K RPM only with headlights on, so yours should have no problem. The other thing I can think of is your clutch lever is loose.

    Look at your clutch lever. At the lever end is a knob or something, just look around. It's used to adjust the clutch cable tension. If the knob there is loose, you will be like half-engaging engine power; just adjust the tension properly and tighten the knob.

    By the way, in case you didn't know, KRR no battery also can start the bike. Once started, the engine electrical generator takes over, and the battery, well, practically just sit there being charged up, no other use.

    Some more tips. Dun try to throttle when you start. Not good for the engine. Use your choke. Switch on for about 3~5 seconds and then kick start. You may need to twist a bit of throttle, but just a bit will do, and off your headlights before you kickstart; the head lights can sap quite a bit of power from you spark plug. So dun start with your headlights on.

    After you succeeded starting, leave the choke on for another 2~3 seconds for the engine RPM to pick up to above 2K RPM. Once you get past 2K RPM, engine should have no problem sustaining itself; switch off choke. At this point, dun try to switch on your headlight yet. Leave the bike to warm up naturally; dun throttle. About a minute or more later, can move off liao. Of course, you can switch on your headlights at this time.

    Hope these helps. Enjoy with your companion.


    Noah, thks for everything i will try everything above today and btw can explain more on the clutch lever thing?? like how tight must i go and maybe more exact on the location(sorry im really bad at locating parts of my bike) and do i do tat with enngine started or not? really hope all these can save me a trip down to motor diam.... thks man.

  20. #70
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    i found the knob liao, but i turn my fingers clock wise means more free play on clutch and if i turn anti clock wise less free play. do u mean to have more free play or less?

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    Terry,
    sorry about this but I dun remember which direction is which. You can adjust by trial and error and to suit your habit. But before that, you must verify something. When you found the knob and before you began fiddling with it, was the knob loose or tight ? If it's loose, chances are the knob might have worked itself loose during your riding and the clutch biting point have moved more to one end such that your engine is engaging the wheels even when you cutch in at 1st gear which causes your engine to run at very low RPM, until such a point that it shuts itself down because the RPM is too low.

    But if the knob was tight when you found it, chances are it might not be what I thought it is. You'd be better off looking elsewhere for the source of the problem in this case.

    If you have determined that the knob is the problem, try this:

    Adjust the knob in one direction and start the engine. Pull in the clutch lever, and kick to 1st gear (be very careful when you do this and expect your bike to lurch forward).

    If the engine doesn't stay alive, keep adjusting until you cannot adjust anymore; you'd know you are in the wrong direction. At this point you'll switch direction of adjustment. Normally, you will be able to sense wrong adjustment even before you reach the end.

    When finally you got to the point where your engine can sustain, that will be the base point, and your engine is safe. Now, you'll adjust for biting point; Whith clutch lever pulled in, and at 1st gear, slowly release the clutch lever just like you do when you move off on your bike. At the point where the bike starts to move (biting point), notice your clutch lever. Are you comfortable with the lever at biting point ? Do you want to adjust the pointing such that it comes when you release more of the clutch lever or less ? Do the appropriate adjustment to suit your comfort.

    That's all. Hope these help. Keep us posted on your condition. Good luck !

    i found the knob liao, but i turn my fingers clock wise means more free play on clutch and if i turn anti clock wise less free play. do u mean to have more free play or less?
    I am a hermit, looking for my own island ...

     

     
  22. #72
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    off your headlights before you kickstart; the head lights can sap quite a bit of power from you spark plug. So dun start with your headlights on.
    tried starting my bike just now without the headlights on ... so much easier! first kick and the engine roared to life!

    thanks for the tips, bro
    Adventure
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    Aug 2003 - Oct 2004: Kawasaki KRR150
    Oct 2004 - Feb 2006: Honda CBR400RRR
    Oct 2005 - Jun 2006: Honda Wave R
    Nov 2005 - ???: Honda CBR1100XX Super Blackbird
    Akan Datang: Suzuki GSX-R600K6

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    misterbean,

    glad to be of help.



    tried starting my bike just now without the headlights on ... so much easier! first kick and the engine roared to life!

    thanks for the tips, bro
    I am a hermit, looking for my own island ...

  24. #74
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    Hi guys,
    anyone can help me with the melting headlight reflector problem I mentioned here earlier on ? No replies so far, so I am posting this plea again. Thanks !

    I am a hermit, looking for my own island ...

  25. #75
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    hi guys do u know wat are the effects if 4t(orh yew) neber change for about mileage 4.5k other than gears hard to kick?

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    Terry,
    for me, I only change the gearbox oil, 4T, after a 5 km run, provided of course that you use fully synthetic oil.

    Besides harder to kick, if you prolong usage of 4T past its recommendation, your gears will suffer premature wear and tear. When gears run, they wear one another out, so the oil collects the chips that were worn off. You can't see the chips; they are very small. Now, if your lubricating oil has chips, it start wearing out your gears, accelerating the wear and tear process.

    The next thing is that the 4T will break down over time under high heat usuage. You know your engine runs hot, very hot, when in use. The oil will eventually break down due to high temperatures. When lubricating oil breaks down, they will no longer have the lubricating properties they were designed to have in the first place. Again, this will lead to premature wear out of your engine gears.

    hi guys do u know wat are the effects if 4t(orh yew) neber change for about mileage 4.5k other than gears hard to kick?
    I am a hermit, looking for my own island ...

  27. #77
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    hi all~~new here..but i selling my kips away today....buay tahan the insurance...enjoy ridding~~

  28. #78
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    Terry,
    for me, I only change the gearbox oil, 4T, after a 5 km run, provided of course that you use fully synthetic oil.

    Besides harder to kick, if you prolong usage of 4T past its recommendation, your gears will suffer premature wear and tear. When gears run, they wear one another out, so the oil collects the chips that were worn off. You can't see the chips; they are very small. Now, if your lubricating oil has chips, it start wearing out your gears, accelerating the wear and tear process.

    The next thing is that the 4T will break down over time under high heat usuage. You know your engine runs hot, very hot, when in use. The oil will eventually break down due to high temperatures. When lubricating oil breaks down, they will no longer have the lubricating properties they were designed to have in the first place. Again, this will lead to premature wear out of your engine gears.

    orrr.... then i reach 5k liao than go changemaybe tis week end. but guess wat Noah, my engine dying off problem was solved thks to u i tried yesterday actually liao but cannot give any verdict, cos i ride certain distance liao after then i tried the method(this will be the time when the problem wont come).So this morning i tried to start engine move around keep clutching and stop and oso tried keeping neutral and it helps!~! thks man.

    seems tat u oso have some bulb problem. issit solved? too bad i dun knoe much if not sure help u back btw gd luck to u

  29. #79
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    just asking... u all the front brakes can last how long and using what brand? i just had mine changed from the original ones after 3 months ++.
    thanks


    pa|n s3nds 0n3 aWaY. wi|| th3 oN3 | |oV3 bR|ng m3 bACK??

  30. #80
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    just asking... u all the front brakes can last how long and using what brand? i just had mine changed from the original ones after 3 months ++.
    thanks
    Depend show u use it brother...my bike already 6 months old and e Brakes still doing fine......
    Riding a Slow Slow Lao K =.="""

  31. #81
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    thanks brother. maybe i must change my braking habits abit liao...


    pa|n s3nds 0n3 aWaY. wi|| th3 oN3 | |oV3 bR|ng m3 bACK??

     

     
  32. #82
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    thanks brother. maybe i must change my braking habits abit liao...
    Don jam ur brake too fast....slow n steady when u reach traffic lights.....if from far, u know is red light......use engine brake....
    Riding a Slow Slow Lao K =.="""

  33. #83
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    Deerez,
    the brakes usage depends on how heavily you use your brakes. For me, I think mine lasted for about 6 months++. I relied a lot on engine braking and lesser on my brakes. For the brand, I use the cheapest one ... so din ask for brand, asked for the cheapest my mech had.

    By the way, it would be good to learn how to see if the brake pads have worn out. There is a groove in the pads. If one day, you dun see the groove anymore or the groove almost going to disappear, you know your brake pads have come to the end of its service life, and it's time to change a new pair. If you do not know how to check, next time you are at you mechanic's place, ask him to show you.

    p/s: wah ... got 2 people use cyndi as avatar liao .... she so popular ah ?

    just asking... u all the front brakes can last how long and using what brand? i just had mine changed from the original ones after 3 months ++.
    thanks
    I am a hermit, looking for my own island ...

  34. #84
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    Terry,
    glad your problem solved. Feel free to ask if you have any problems again. No, my light problem not solved yet. So far, no replies. So sad ... ahah h ... Take care !


    orrr.... then i reach 5k liao than go changemaybe tis week end. but guess wat Noah, my engine dying off problem was solved thks to u i tried yesterday actually liao but cannot give any verdict, cos i ride certain distance liao after then i tried the method(this will be the time when the problem wont come).So this morning i tried to start engine move around keep clutching and stop and oso tried keeping neutral and it helps!~! thks man.

    seems tat u oso have some bulb problem. issit solved? too bad i dun knoe much if not sure help u back btw gd luck to u
    I am a hermit, looking for my own island ...

  35. #85
    d33r82
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    thanks tommy and noah
    try to change habit from tomolo onwards


    pa|n s3nds 0n3 aWaY. wi|| th3 oN3 | |oV3 bR|ng m3 bACK??

  36. #86
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    Deerez,
    the brakes usage depends on how heavily you use your brakes. For me, I think mine lasted for about 6 months++. I relied a lot on engine braking and lesser on my brakes. For the brand, I use the cheapest one ... so din ask for brand, asked for the cheapest my mech had.

    By the way, it would be good to learn how to see if the brake pads have worn out. There is a groove in the pads. If one day, you dun see the groove anymore or the groove almost going to disappear, you know your brake pads have come to the end of its service life, and it's time to change a new pair. If you do not know how to check, next time you are at you mechanic's place, ask him to show you.

    p/s: wah ... got 2 people use cyndi as avatar liao .... she so popular ah ?
    CYINDI! CYNDI!! CYINDI! CYNDI!!

  37. #87
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    CYINDI! CYNDI!! CYINDI! CYNDI!!
    Who is she???
    Riding a Slow Slow Lao K =.="""

  38. #88
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    hhmmm brakes?? 1 year and still going... haha... haven't changed them since i got my bike a year ago...
    but now considering of selling due to insurance... can't bear to sell...

    I'm reckless; but I'm responsible!

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    recently i've noticed that my bike is hard to start... it'll die off a few seconds after i kick-started it... last night i clutched in and kicked gear 1 and it died... then i started it again... and it died at a traffic junction... why is it so? could it be the same problem as terry84?
    and oh yea... i also noticed that if i'm moving off... my speedometer doesnt moves too... until when i tarik then the needle starts moving.... is it all along like this... hehe... maybe i too long didnt take a look at speedometer when moving off that's why i find it weird...

    I'm reckless; but I'm responsible!

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    recently i've noticed that my bike is hard to start... it'll die off a few seconds after i kick-started it... last night i clutched in and kicked gear 1 and it died... then i started it again... and it died at a traffic junction... why is it so? could it be the same problem as terry84?
    and oh yea... i also noticed that if i'm moving off... my speedometer doesnt moves too... until when i tarik then the needle starts moving.... is it all along like this... hehe... maybe i too long didnt take a look at speedometer when moving off that's why i find it weird...
    maybe u can try to start and leave it there with lights on for 5 mins first, then later u start to move and clutch in or neutral. if problem still there then maybe u suffer the same fate as me liao but nevermind, as noah suggested. you can try to adjust ur clutch lever knob. at least works for me. hope will work out fine for u too

  41. #91
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    Super Kips,
    it's only recently you have the problem ? Actually, when were you trying to start the engine ? First start of the day in the morning ? Or has the bike been started before already in the day ? Did you use choke when you start ? Unable to pinpoint the problem until you give a clearer description. But as a quick check, try this. Before you kick start the engine, twist the throttle fully 2 times, then try kick start. See if it starts and sustain ... Of course, you'll have to use choke if you are starting for the first time of the day.

    Your speedo .... do you mean to say that after you wack the meter a bit then it starts moving ? So eventually, when you are moving, does the needle work ? Or is it stuck only when you are moving off, but works after you have started crusing ? Does the needle jerk or vibrate about its pivot ? If it does ? the wire link to your speedo may be about to break. Give us a more detailed description so that we can help you.


    recently i've noticed that my bike is hard to start... it'll die off a few seconds after i kick-started it... last night i clutched in and kicked gear 1 and it died... then i started it again... and it died at a traffic junction... why is it so? could it be the same problem as terry84?
    and oh yea... i also noticed that if i'm moving off... my speedometer doesnt moves too... until when i tarik then the needle starts moving.... is it all along like this... hehe... maybe i too long didnt take a look at speedometer when moving off that's why i find it weird...
    I am a hermit, looking for my own island ...

     

     
  42. #92
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    Anyone knows wat would be the ideal idling speed for the KRR?
    Adventure
    Getting lost is part of the fun


    Aug 2003 - Oct 2004: Kawasaki KRR150
    Oct 2004 - Feb 2006: Honda CBR400RRR
    Oct 2005 - Jun 2006: Honda Wave R
    Nov 2005 - ???: Honda CBR1100XX Super Blackbird
    Akan Datang: Suzuki GSX-R600K6

  43. #93
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    hi misterbean. ideal dunno leh... but mine at 1.25k there.. btw ur kips green very the bright leh...


    pa|n s3nds 0n3 aWaY. wi|| th3 oN3 | |oV3 bR|ng m3 bACK??

  44. #94
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    Anyone knows wat would be the ideal idling speed for the KRR?
    for me 1.5

  45. #95
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    okie thanks, bros. mine is around 1.5 too, set it higher cos worried that engine may die off whilst stopping on the roads

    d33r82, camera tricks ... hee
    Adventure
    Getting lost is part of the fun


    Aug 2003 - Oct 2004: Kawasaki KRR150
    Oct 2004 - Feb 2006: Honda CBR400RRR
    Oct 2005 - Jun 2006: Honda Wave R
    Nov 2005 - ???: Honda CBR1100XX Super Blackbird
    Akan Datang: Suzuki GSX-R600K6

  46. #96
    m3l
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    did any of u guy's rpm meter cable break b4? cos mine just broke again... abt half yr break 1 time

  47. #97
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    Hi guys,
    anyone can help me with the melting headlight reflector problem I mentioned here earlier on ? No replies so far, so I am posting this plea again. Thanks !

    i tink tats bcoz ur headlight casing is not original.after my accident,mine start to melt also.n e bike shop told me they didnt chg a original 1 for me.

  48. #98
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    I bought from LAB. They told me is original. Now no choice, I have to look elsewhere for one that doesn't melt. Waste money ... that was my 3rd headlight. Any recommendation ?



    i tink tats bcoz ur headlight casing is not original.after my accident,mine start to melt also.n e bike shop told me they didnt chg a original 1 for me.
    I am a hermit, looking for my own island ...

  49. #99
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    hello mates.. kips rider reporting in and back to camp ....
    "When you use your index finger to point at a problem, there are 3 fingers of yours, discreetly pointing at yourself"

  50. #100
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    Ok guys,
    bought another headlight today from FJT. The darned thing costs $80. This has to be original (so ex ...). Goin to fix later and see if the thing melts. Anyway, talked to the attendant. Seems like FJT carries all the originals parts for KRR bike. So this is one place where we can go for parts.

    Lastly, headlights from LAB cannot make it. All will melt, even if you use ordinary bulbs. My experience after 3 headlights from LAB. So be aware.
    I am a hermit, looking for my own island ...

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