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View Poll Results: What 4T best supported?

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  • Maxima

    178 35.25%
  • Castrol

    54 10.69%
  • Esso

    32 6.34%
  • Shell

    12 2.38%
  • Silkolene

    29 5.74%
  • Motul

    165 32.67%
  • Royal purple

    17 3.37%
  • Motorex

    18 3.56%
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Thread: [Discussion] Technical - Engine Oil

  1. #101
    4D~ToTo~Big Sweep
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    ER.... where can i get cheaper Mobil 1 Eo ar>??? =>

    HAte My Gold Rims and Red shocks~!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4D~ToTo~Big Sweep View Post
    ER.... where can i get cheaper Mobil 1 Eo ar>??? =>
    how cheaper is cheap??
    1997 - Yamaha RXZ (Jap Model), 1999 - Yamaha TZM150, 2000 - Yamaha RXS115, 2001 - Honda Wave 125S, 2002 - Yamaha 125Z, 2004 - 2011 Yamaha XJR400RR Redbull Theme, 2005 - Spark Z110, 2006 - Kawasaki KRR150, 2009 - Suzuki Bandit 400, 2010 - Suzuki GSXR400R(project cannibalism), 2011 - Suzuki Hayabusa Gen 1 White Motul Theme, 2012 - Suzuki K6 1K & RZ350LC *lead XJR Sgp since 2007 - 2012*

     

     
  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by xjrredbull View Post
    erm...what is a mineral oil?
    Not very sure also but is a cheaper grade of oil.

    Normally use that for run in? Am i right? Any experience can share?
    Regards,

    Crazy

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crazy View Post
    Not very sure also but is a cheaper grade of oil.

    Normally use that for run in? Am i right? Any experience can share?
    all my years i have not once use mineral....

    any insights to what is the advantages to minerals????
    1997 - Yamaha RXZ (Jap Model), 1999 - Yamaha TZM150, 2000 - Yamaha RXS115, 2001 - Honda Wave 125S, 2002 - Yamaha 125Z, 2004 - 2011 Yamaha XJR400RR Redbull Theme, 2005 - Spark Z110, 2006 - Kawasaki KRR150, 2009 - Suzuki Bandit 400, 2010 - Suzuki GSXR400R(project cannibalism), 2011 - Suzuki Hayabusa Gen 1 White Motul Theme, 2012 - Suzuki K6 1K & RZ350LC *lead XJR Sgp since 2007 - 2012*

  5. #105
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    OWS good anot?

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by xjrredbull View Post
    how cheaper is cheap??
    ER....below $20>? =>

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  7. #107
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    juz changed to maxima on my spec 3.. was not as smooth as how its described to be..


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  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4D~ToTo~Big Sweep View Post
    ER....below $20>? =>
    maybe mototiams...
    nice pipes....woooooooo hoooooo
    1997 - Yamaha RXZ (Jap Model), 1999 - Yamaha TZM150, 2000 - Yamaha RXS115, 2001 - Honda Wave 125S, 2002 - Yamaha 125Z, 2004 - 2011 Yamaha XJR400RR Redbull Theme, 2005 - Spark Z110, 2006 - Kawasaki KRR150, 2009 - Suzuki Bandit 400, 2010 - Suzuki GSXR400R(project cannibalism), 2011 - Suzuki Hayabusa Gen 1 White Motul Theme, 2012 - Suzuki K6 1K & RZ350LC *lead XJR Sgp since 2007 - 2012*

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by deviLLian View Post
    juz changed to maxima on my spec 3.. was not as smooth as how its described to be..
    how much per bottle??
    fully/semi???
    1997 - Yamaha RXZ (Jap Model), 1999 - Yamaha TZM150, 2000 - Yamaha RXS115, 2001 - Honda Wave 125S, 2002 - Yamaha 125Z, 2004 - 2011 Yamaha XJR400RR Redbull Theme, 2005 - Spark Z110, 2006 - Kawasaki KRR150, 2009 - Suzuki Bandit 400, 2010 - Suzuki GSXR400R(project cannibalism), 2011 - Suzuki Hayabusa Gen 1 White Motul Theme, 2012 - Suzuki K6 1K & RZ350LC *lead XJR Sgp since 2007 - 2012*

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    Quote Originally Posted by xjrredbull View Post
    how much per bottle??
    fully/semi???
    got it as a package for $74 @ unique motorsports.. 3.2 litres + oil filter.. price is good but i guess i chose d wrong grade.. should haf used 10w40 not 15w50.. but anyway read sumwhr in d forum dat some eng oils has got "run in" period. can anyone clarify?


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  11. #111
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    u guys know howmuch if wan to change new piston

     

     
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    Quote Originally Posted by wak lu View Post
    u guys know howmuch if wan to change new piston

    Overhaul around SGD 1.6k

    HAte My Gold Rims and Red shocks~!!!

  13. #113
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    thanks alot to singapore pools hehe

  14. #114
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    This is the 1st time i change EO for my Spec 1. it seem to vibrate more after changing new EO castrol $12 x 3.5 liter. This EO good.?

    Thanks
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  15. #115
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    Default eo change

    Quote Originally Posted by hai666 View Post
    This is the 1st time i change EO for my Spec 1. it seem to vibrate more after changing new EO castrol $12 x 3.5 liter. This EO good.?

    Thanks
    This EO i believe is semi synthetic.. vibrate is normal..

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by hai666 View Post
    This is the 1st time i change EO for my Spec 1. it seem to vibrate more after changing new EO castrol $12 x 3.5 liter. This EO good.?

    Thanks
    3.5L?...abit much...3.2 with filter...


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    Quote Originally Posted by hai666 View Post
    This is the 1st time i change EO for my Spec 1. it seem to vibrate more after changing new EO castrol $12 x 3.5 liter. This EO good.?

    Thanks
    Quote Originally Posted by JbAtRaCeR View Post
    3.5L?...abit much...3.2 with filter...
    Mine is just 2 litres for EO change & 2.2litres with Oil Filter...Its a Yammie! Motul is a good EO..5100/7100 is
    1997 - Yamaha RXZ (Jap Model), 1999 - Yamaha TZM150, 2000 - Yamaha RXS115, 2001 - Honda Wave 125S, 2002 - Yamaha 125Z, 2004 - 2011 Yamaha XJR400RR Redbull Theme, 2005 - Spark Z110, 2006 - Kawasaki KRR150, 2009 - Suzuki Bandit 400, 2010 - Suzuki GSXR400R(project cannibalism), 2011 - Suzuki Hayabusa Gen 1 White Motul Theme, 2012 - Suzuki K6 1K & RZ350LC *lead XJR Sgp since 2007 - 2012*

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by xjrredbull View Post
    Mine is just 2 litres for EO change & 2.2litres with Oil Filter...Its a Yammie! Motul is a good EO..5100/7100 is
    Aiya...yours yamama....mine hooooonnnddaaaa where got same. Regarding motul eo,maybe i'll try it next,eversince day one,my bike runs on castrol on running in and till now using maxima.


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  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by xjrredbull View Post
    Mine is just 2 litres for EO change & 2.2litres with Oil Filter...Its a Yammie! Motul is a good EO..5100/7100 is
    Quote Originally Posted by JbAtRaCeR View Post
    Aiya...yours yamama....mine hooooonnnddaaaa where got same. Regarding motul eo,maybe i'll try it next,eversince day one,my bike runs on castrol on running in and till now using maxima.
    I love my Yamaha not your yamama ok!! nevertheless, its a two wheelers!!! i love Motul 7100 & 5100... good EO...
    1997 - Yamaha RXZ (Jap Model), 1999 - Yamaha TZM150, 2000 - Yamaha RXS115, 2001 - Honda Wave 125S, 2002 - Yamaha 125Z, 2004 - 2011 Yamaha XJR400RR Redbull Theme, 2005 - Spark Z110, 2006 - Kawasaki KRR150, 2009 - Suzuki Bandit 400, 2010 - Suzuki GSXR400R(project cannibalism), 2011 - Suzuki Hayabusa Gen 1 White Motul Theme, 2012 - Suzuki K6 1K & RZ350LC *lead XJR Sgp since 2007 - 2012*

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by xjrredbull View Post
    I love my Yamaha not your yamama ok!! nevertheless, its a two wheelers!!! i love Motul 7100 & 5100... good EO...
    7100 & 5100..there is 300V also rite?.


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  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by JbAtRaCeR View Post
    7100 & 5100..there is 300V also rite?.
    correcto....anyone uses that one before???any comments???
    1997 - Yamaha RXZ (Jap Model), 1999 - Yamaha TZM150, 2000 - Yamaha RXS115, 2001 - Honda Wave 125S, 2002 - Yamaha 125Z, 2004 - 2011 Yamaha XJR400RR Redbull Theme, 2005 - Spark Z110, 2006 - Kawasaki KRR150, 2009 - Suzuki Bandit 400, 2010 - Suzuki GSXR400R(project cannibalism), 2011 - Suzuki Hayabusa Gen 1 White Motul Theme, 2012 - Suzuki K6 1K & RZ350LC *lead XJR Sgp since 2007 - 2012*

     

     
  22. #122
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    Random qn, Anybody tried using EO from our friendly neighbours up north before?

    To be specific, Petronas stuff
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  23. #123
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    currently using...

    Shell Helix Ultra + X-1R
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    hiya bros.. any oils to recommend for clutch slip probs?
    i duno whether its called clutch slip or wat but its sumtin like a double feeling "tek tek" when up gear..
    m currently on maxima extra 15w50
    downshift also quite stiff..


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  25. #125
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    i think double click is normal, mine some time become single click......feels maxima not so smooth, now using castrol R4, better feeling hehe

  26. #126
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    Guys...read and decide for yourself.


    This article was written by Mike Guillory and he has curmudgeonedly allowed me to post it here. I think it offers an excellent perspective and discussion on oil! It certainly has helped to shape my opinion on this complex subject. And to frequent visitors, this article was updated in June 2002.

    Brief Introduction
    Along with keeping things adjusted properly, using a good quality motor oil and changing it regularly is the key ingredient to keeping your motorcycle running happily for a long time. You cannot go wrong using one of the various "motorcycle-specific" oils, now available also from some of the major oil companies. However, many motorcyclists object to the higher prices of those oils and for convenience prefer to buy oil at their local automotive supply store, which is a still a good option. This article will provide you with information to make an informed choice.
    Price of Motor Oil
    So how do you make an intelligent choice? Will $1.00 a quart automotive oil work okay or do you need to pay $4 to $12 a quart for "motorcycle" oil? You have to answer that question yourself, but here are a few facts to help you make the best decision for your situation.
    The owner's manual of your motorcycle probably says something very similar to the following:
    Use only high detergent, premium quality motor oil certified to meet API Service Classification SF or SG (shown on container). The use of additives is unnecessary and will only increase operating expenses. Do not use oils with graphite or molybdenum additives as they may adversely affect clutch operation." That's pretty clear. But what do you do since automotive oils now say on the container "meets SL Service?" That's easy! By consensus of the API and the manufacturers, the current SL classification meet all requirements of SF, SG, SH, and SJ plus all earlier API gasoline categories. The current SL actually offers some additional benefits over the older classifications. So, if the motorcycle requirement says "SG", be confident that "SL" indeed meets that requirement.
    The Vanishing Zinc and Phosphorous
    It is a fact than many SL oils now contain lower levels of ZDDP (the zinc/phosphorous extreme pressure additive) and that is a big concern to a lot of motorcyclists. ZDDP is a last resort protection against metal-to-metal contact. Whereas a few years ago the zinc level was typically 0.12% to 0.15% in SG automobile oils, some SL oils now have as little as 0.05%. However, this in itself may not be a problem since normal operation of a motorcycle on the street would never result in metal-to-metal contact any more than it would in your automobile. Remember these SL oils meet the most demanding protection requirements of modern, high-reving, powerful 4-stroke automobile engines (among others). And there is no reason to believe the lubrication requirements of street motorcycles is measurably different.
    However, if you race you probably need higher levels of ZDDP and should use appropriate oils or ZDDP additives.
    NEW Motorcycle Oils
    Seeing an opportunity to bridge this perceived gap between motorcycle oils and automotive oils, many traditional oil marketers like Castrol, Mobil, Pennzoil, Quaker State, and Valvoline now sell their own "motorcycle" oils at very competitive prices, and alongside their automotive oils. I have found them at several of my local autoparts stores and even at one WalMart store. Call or visit the auto supply stores in your area and ask. Even if they don't routinely stock them, they probably can order a case for you at substantial savings because their mark-up is generally quite a bit less than motorcycle shops.
    Although not a motorcycle oil, oils with the designation "Racing Oil" are not intended for street use, generally meets "SG" requirements and has somewhat higher levels of additives, like ZDDP. An example is Valvoline's VR1 Racing oil available in 20w50 weight. These should work fine in our motorcycles.
    Energy-Conserving Oils
    Some are concerned that the new "energy-conserving" motor oils may have "friction modifiers" which will cause clutch slippage. Since that is a legitimate concern it is best to use only oils which are NOT "energy-conserving for motorcycles with wet clutches." Read the back of the container. It clearly identifies this. In general, only the very lighter oils, like 10w30, 10w20, 5w20, are energy-conserving. All 5w40, 5w50, 10w40, 15w40, 15w50, and 20w50 oils which I have found are not energy-conserving and can be recommended for general motorcycle use.
    It is commonly mis-stated that "SJ and SL oils have friction modifiers which will cause wet clutch slippage." In reality, all oils have friction modifiers, that's how they work. ZDDP itself is a friction modifier. The real issue is to avoid getting the friction so low, with very thin oils containing extra amounts of friction modifiers, that clutches will slip under normal use. Stay away from energy conserving oils and you should be fine, if your clutch is in good working order.
    Synthetic or Conventional
    What about synthetic vs. semi-synthetic vs. "dino" oils? All motor oils have several special additives formulated into the oil to protect from corrosion and wear, plus detergents to keep combustion products in the oil. For normal (non-extreme) use, "dino" oils protect as well as the synthetic oils. However, if you plan to race, run at extremely high temperatures, or plan to extend oil-change intervals, or simply want the best, then a synthetic or semi-synthetic may be your best choice.
    Real World Test Results
    Are there any "real world" examples of long motorcycle engine life using automotive oils? There is a good one in the June 1996 issue of Sport Rider magazine in a report called the "100,000 mile Honda CBR900RR." The owner used conventional Castrol GTX oil, 10W40 in the winter, 20W50 in the summer. He changed it every 4,000 miles, changing the filter every OTHER oil change. No valve clearance adjustments were required after the initial one at 16,000 miles. And a dyno test against the same model with only 6,722 miles showed torque and horsepower virtually identical. The 100,000 mile bike was even used for some racing. In a subsequent follow-up, the same CBR had passed 200,000 miles and was still going strong! Plus, many motorcyclists have emailed me with their very positive results using nothing but automotive oils for years in a variety of rides. Oils have changed over the past 10 years, but that just means we need to be more careful in our choices.
    Frequency Asked Questions
    1. What is a reasonable oil-change interval?

      Most manuals recommend not to exceed 8,000 miles after break-in. But short-trip riding is considered severe service and the most common oil change interval is 3,000 to 4,000 miles. However, a long trip is the easiest service for the oil and going 6,000 to 8,000 miles between changes while on a cross-country ride is routine. Also, the use of synthetic oils can easily double the oil-change interval.
    2. Will changing the oil even more frequently, like every 1,000 miles, prolong the life of the engine?

      Not very likely, because even at 3,000 to 4,000 miles, the oil and additives are not degraded very much. Changing more often just wastes money.
    3. What about the claims that motorcycle-specific oils contain "special polymers which are resistant to breakdown caused by motorcycle transmissions?

      Oils usually require the addition of polymers, called VI improvers, to create a multi-viscosity oil, like 10W-40. Whether it is a motorcycle oil or an automotive oil, all polymers are subject to some degradation in the transmission. Full synthetic oils tend to have less polymer than conventional oils and therefore degrade less.
    4. Why are motorcycle oils so much more expensive than automotive oils?

      Cost of doing business is higher per quart of motorcycle oil. Large oil companies make so much more product that their profit margin per quart does not have to be so high. That's why the newer motorcycle oils being marketed by some oil companies are only marginally more expensive than their automotive counterparts.
    5. What about the claims by specialty motorcycle oil manufacturers, that their oil is better?

      That's a good one. Next time you hear that line, simply ask, "What evidence do you have?" I've never seen any. If you do get any, please let me know! I don't believe that there is any.
    Now, armed with all this information, you are ready to make your choice between automotive oil and motorcycle oil. Either will work fine. Your motorcycle probably cannot tell any difference. There are many riders, the author included, who use nothing but good quality automotive motor oils. There also are many who use nothing but motorcycle oils. All indications are that both choices work equally well because motorcycle engines are designed so well that the oil really doesn't make any measurable difference. As long as it meets SG, SH, SJ, or SL service requirements.
    Addendum
    In the past several years, various reports went around regarding independent studies that showed "automotive" oils that are not energy-conserving (EC) work just as well as motorcycle-specific oil and in many cases better. In former revisions to this article I listed the oils I found locally (Houston, Tx) that were 10w40 and heavier and not energy-conserving. I've discontinued that as it adds little value. All one needs to do is look at the back of the oil container where the lower half of the identification circle will have the words "energy conserving" if it is. Don't use those in wet clutch motorcycle applications, as they may cause clutch slippage. If the lower half of that circle is blank, as all 10w40 and heavier oils should, that means it is NOT energy conserving and should be fine in wet clutch applications.
    Heavy-Duty Oils
    My favorite oils and the ones I most mostly recommend for motorcycle use, are the "heavy-duty" oils. They are commonly misunderstood, and often referred to as "diesel oils." They are NOT energy conserving, have higher zinc levels, as high as 0.16%, and by virtue of their multi-duty have a better engine protection package than an oil that is only rated "SL". These heavy-duty oils are rated SJ or SL, plus CH-4. They are currently closer in formulation to the motorcycle specific oils and to the "SG" oils that many motorcycle makers recommend. Following are some examples of these oils, generally 15w40 oils by industry convention. There may be several other 15w40 oils that I am not familiar with.
    1. Castrol RX Super 15w40
    2. Chevron Delo 400 15w40
    3. Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40
    4. Pennzoil Long-Life 15w40
    5. Quaker State 4X4 Synthetic Blend 15w40
    6. Shell Rotella-T 15w40 (my personal favorite)
    7. SuperTech 2000 (WalMart) 15w40
    8. Valvoline All Fleet 15w40
    9. Castrol Syntec Blend Truck and 4X4 15w40
    Full Synthetics - for Maximum Protection

    For years Mobil One 15w50 has been a favorite of motorcyclists. In recent years it has gone from its original formulation to an improved SJ "TriSynthetic", and more recently as SL "SuperSyn." several of us have received conflicting information on this new "flavor" of Mobil One, but the consensus appears to be that the new SuperSyn has additional friction modifiers and may no longer be a good choice for motorcycles. However, I have heard from several VFR owners still using it with favorable results. Therefore, YMMV. Mobil naturally recommends their motorcycle Mobil One.
    A fairly new player in the synthetic market is Shell with Rotella-T Full Synthetic 5w40. It is not energy-conserving and according to Shell performs competitively with Mobil Delvac One full synthtetic, which means it offers even more protection than does Mobil One 15w50. A number of motorcyclists have reported to me good results so far with his use of the new Synthetic Rotella-T. I put it in my own VFR at my last oil change.
    Delvac One should be an excellent motorcycle oil but is generally available only at truck stops or in commercial quantities. For those who may have connections with a long-haul trucking operation, where Delvac One is known to be used in oil change intervals up to 150,000 miles, or even more, you may want to try it if the price is right.
    There are a number of other synthetic and semi-synthetic oils available and I have no reason to believe they are in any way inferior. Just follow the advice and use one which is not energy conserving.
    Important Note: Be sure and use the recommended viscosity range, e.g. 10w40, 20w50, etc. for the climate in your area. In general, to protect your motor use the heaviest oil you can that still meets the manufacturer's guidelines. For example, 20w50 is better in warm weather than 10w40, because it gives you a thicker oil cushion between bearing surfaces at operating temperature. For racing, a thinner oil will offer less resistance and thus more power, but will offer less protection.
    I personally believe in these oils and use nothing else in my motorcycles. As always, you have to make your own, informed decisions.
    A Note on Warranties
    Since it is generally accepted within the industry that current classifications also meet all older ones, there can legally be no warranty issue. In fact, some oils actually say on the package "SG" in addition to SH , SJ and SL. However, if any of the very newest motorcycles specify oil meeting the new JASO, or other motorcycle-specific oil specifications, and no reference to "SG" or similar automotive specs, then you may have a potential warranty issue so behave accordingly.
    And finally, it is gratifying to have received so many emails the past three (3) years from motorcyclists finding this oil and oil filter information useful to them. Keep them coming. I am happy to help, and I plan further updates as things change significantly. Please refer to Oil Filter Alternatives - Honda Motorcycles also by Mike Guillory for a comprehensive review of various oil filters. Web Master's Note
    The author is a Chemist, retired from a major Oil and Chemical Company, after a career in the Quality Assurance of Fuels, Lubricants, and Chemical products. He and his wife both ride.
    Stupid Hurts!.Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does
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    wow... that is very informative!

    so meaning we can ACTUALLY put CAR ENGINE OIL into our bike???


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    can mehz put car one iside our bike??
    curious to know the outcome sia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Qrisx View Post
    wow... that is very informative!

    so meaning we can ACTUALLY put CAR ENGINE OIL into our bike???

    yes..been using it all these years. In the earlier years..there was no such thing as motorcycle oil...the first I know was Castrol (pack in 1 litre bt for car top up convience) and then comes "Belray" (first eve synthetic I know comes in 1 quart can from US). castrol, Agip and Duckham were all car oil too but sie on bikes with no slip clutch in those days..never herd of "ester" than.

    Anyway..tried Maxima xtra, Motul 3100..whatever..still back to car oil..but have to say Mobil is still best in motorcycle packing.

    Now using Carlube (5 litres)...cheap and very good ...and with X-1R lagi_the_best for hi-rpm whack whack...for that fast to redline in shortest possible time . Carlube just came out with their 1 litre motorcycle eo with JASO/SL though..don't know why.
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    u noe i trust this guy so much from his article i might actually gonna try his personal favourite : Shell Rotella-T 15w40 .

    any idea where i can get that?!

    and omg i cant believe im gonna use a car oil for my bike! ahhahaha

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    Shell Rotella-T 15w40
    Not sure you can find it. When I was in the Air Force..only military specifcation oil are use as recommended by the manufactuer and Shell Rotella was the one we have to use...then again its single grade 40W and we were using it on Diesel engine hi-amp voltage generators.

    We did used it for our bikes too..from all make of cars to all makes of 2-Stroke and 4 stroke bikes. All I can remember was no problem...heeee.x3!

    I think SBS is using it now.
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  32. #132
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    Ah pek, I thought Amsoil was the 1st to develop API 100% synthetic oil?
    Ride with me..

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    Quote Originally Posted by xafiq View Post
    Ah pek, I thought Amsoil was the 1st to develop API 100% synthetic oil?
    That I dunno...I was referring to BelRay being the first synthetic we seen and use here..later followed by Mobil Formula 1.

    Again all this are only brands..the actual manufacturer I do not know but I have read that it was started by German scientists in the late 1930s and early 1940s..and more widely used in the 50s and 60s for aviation purposes till the early 70s..than it was formulated for use in automobile. Amsoil being the first...that I dunno either but that's what it says on their web site..something I can only take with a pinch of salt..but I'm sure they were not the first in Singapore.

    I only saw Amsoil product here (many months later after BelRay), packed in American quart can size in hatd board can in silver and gold (different grade Ws) with a black label back in those days. Was quite popular but overshadowed by Mobil. Their head office was at Beach Road Golden miles I think.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ah Pek View Post
    Guys...read and decide for yourself.
    [*]Will changing the oil even more frequently, like every 1,000 miles, prolong the life of the engine?

    Not very likely, because even at 3,000 to 4,000 miles, the oil and additives are not degraded very much. Changing more often just wastes money.

    .
    i keep telling ppl this but nobody believe me..... haizzzz

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    Quote Originally Posted by SparkerS1 View Post
    i keep telling ppl this but nobody believe me..... haizzzz
    It does prolong reliabilty of engine life!... but at a cost of course. Its a "to whom who wants it" thingy.

    Do a little maths and see if its worth the bike you are keeping..may be coe for 20 yrs or life time.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ah Pek View Post
    It does prolong reliabilty of engine life!... but at a cost of course. Its a "to whom who wants it" thingy.

    Do a little maths and see if its worth the bike you are keeping..may be coe for 20 yrs or life time.
    haizzz, if u tell this in those threads other then S4 threads, surely kena shoot like siao, they refused to accept the fact, some even say every 1000km change EO, some 2 strokes lagi better, change EO every month

    tell them, they dun believe a single thing, my rxz one yr plus nv change EO also like tat, running strong, nobody believe

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    Quote Originally Posted by SparkerS1 View Post
    haizzz, if u tell this in those threads other then S4 threads, surely kena shoot like siao, they refused to accept the fact, some even say every 1000km change EO, some 2 strokes lagi better, change EO every month

    tell them, they dun believe a single thing, my rxz one yr plus nv change EO also like tat, running strong, nobody believe
    You are right..2 stroke bikes are very different and eo change is very minimal as they are not affected by intense heat of engine block system like a 4 stroke engine..its basically function for gear box lubrication. Engine lube where hottest is taken care off by 2T.

    About what others said and say in other forum, believe in what you know is true that you heard from expeience ppl and expert..don't waste your time and try to prove yourself right..you are just foolishly wasting your precious time. Once you got it right, its right and the rest will learn sometime..someday...its life
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ah Pek View Post
    Once you got it right, its right and the rest will learn sometime..someday...its life
    i wanna guide newbies but they just dun listen, if they dun believe, y ask in the first place, nowadays technology is so gd, ppl ask in the forum for an easy way out, last time i recce n learn lor, i where got in forum ask silly qns unless really bo bian then ask is okie.

    ppl too rich nowadays n can afford to spent.
    then in forum complain bike maintenance too high, due to alot of money spent unnecssary.

    see if they next time big bikes, see can keep changing every 1000km or not

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    juz sharin....
    i'm usin maxima extra 10w40
    recently i felt dat my bike felt a lot lighter & more smooth..
    gear shifting also silky smooth.. haha so happy
    it happen only after d oil reach mileage abt 3000+ kms
    before 3000km wasnt dat smooth tho..
    weird.. how come i oso duno leh..
    anyway, is 40wt oil better for our climate or 50wt? diz part i unsure..


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    Quote Originally Posted by deviLLian View Post
    juz sharin....
    i'm usin maxima extra 10w40
    recently i felt dat my bike felt a lot lighter & more smooth..
    gear shifting also silky smooth.. haha so happy
    it happen only after d oil reach mileage abt 3000+ kms
    before 3000km wasnt dat smooth tho..
    weird.. how come i oso duno leh..
    anyway, is 40wt oil better for our climate or 50wt? diz part i unsure..
    Its because at about 3k+ km..that's when the vicosity is just right for you. Nect time, drain some out and feel the thickness and texture of the eo and you roughly know how to blend (mix) your own..that's what I did a long time ago.

    40w or 50w both can be use but not 50w as a single grade (you can't find it anyway) except your own blending with oil treament. becare...too thick is very bad for high range rpm use.
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  41. #141
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    Umm... after reading all the post in this thread, I noticed... almost all of you are using fully synthetic...

    I heard that semi-synthetic makes the bike cooler... is it true? If it's true, which semi-syn oil is good?
    Biking is something that everyone can learn and enjoy!

     

     
  42. #142
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    Ah pek or anybody out there...

    Wanna check wif u guys...

    Recently i use castrol.... thickness? Forget oredi but i remember its synthetic... Change gear not so loud....

    But nw first time try Maxima change gear so loud....

    Do u guys noe the reason?
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    Repeated Post...soree.
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    Quote Originally Posted by steel_headz View Post
    Ah pek or anybody out there...

    Wanna check wif u guys...

    Recently i use castrol.... thickness? Forget oredi but i remember its synthetic... Change gear not so loud....

    But nw first time try Maxima change gear so loud....

    Do u guys noe the reason?
    Have to agreed with you. I used Maxima Utra before just to test the eo with added X-1R..regardless of its "W" values..its somewhat on the thin side..drained it off after weeks..regret spending so much per litre. Went back to car eo with STP and X-!R. ..shiok_shiok. Castrol Edge Sync..love it but now got cheaper one like Carlube..oso very shiok and cheap (5 litres somemore).
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    Quote Originally Posted by SparkerS1 View Post
    haizzz, if u tell this in those threads other then S4 threads, surely kena shoot like siao, they refused to accept the fact, some even say every 1000km change EO, some 2 strokes lagi better, change EO every month

    tell them, they dun believe a single thing, my rxz one yr plus nv change EO also like tat, running strong, nobody believe

    When I own my two strokes BIKES...I change about once a year (uses them bikes everyday and hard riding)..only occassion top up when below level but it hardly drop level anyway. For 4 strokes..its different lah..I think you know just as much why.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ah Pek View Post
    Have to agreed with you. I used Maxima Utra before just to test the eo with added X-1R..regardless of its "W" values..its somewhat on the thin side..drained it off after weeks..regret spending so much per litre. Went back to car eo with STP and X-!R. ..shiok_shiok. Castrol Edge Sync..love it but now got cheaper one like Carlube..oso very shiok and cheap (5 litres somemore).
    So u mean the maxima its not suitable for my bike?

    Ss i just stick to Castrol synthetic brand....

    I tink the maxima is too thin rite?

    Cos change gear not really nice leh.....
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    Quote Originally Posted by steel_headz View Post
    So u mean the maxima its not suitable for my bike?

    Ss i just stick to Castrol synthetic brand....

    I tink the maxima is too thin rite?

    Cos change gear not really nice leh.....
    I can't rule out that Maxima is not good in this context..it works for some others. Just find the eo you find best for your bike condition. The thing to remember is that older bikes need to use higher digit of "W"..newer, the thinner the better..but "0" and "5" is a waste (cost more).."10" should suffice in our tropical climate here.

    You may not find the grade you want sometime..so settle for vicosity enhancer to 'thicken' your eo..like STP and Blue Coral oil treatment. By far, IMHO, these two are the best. Not to thick..every of this few ozs bottle to 4 or 5 litres of 10/40W would bring it close to 20/50w..work best for older bikes. Other rider opinion may defer..but mine is thru personal expeience and many old kock rider that still riding till these days.
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    Actually my bike i can say tat its still new....

    Vtec 3 just a yr only....

    I heard so many gd comments sbout Maxima but to me i feel YES the smoothness its still there like changing to new EO(other brands)....

    But when cums to change gear its loud....

    I guess i just use the Castrol first....
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    Please refer to Oil Filter Alternatives [http://vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/oilfilter.htm] - Honda Motorcycles also by Mike Guillory for a comprehensive review of various oil filters. Web Master's Note

    The author is a Chemist, retired from a major Oil and Chemical Company, after a career in the Quality Assurance of Fuels, Lubricants, and Chemical products. He and his wife both ride.

    All indications are that both choices work equally well because motorcycle engines are designed so well that the oil really doesn't make any measurable difference. As long as it meets SG, SH, SJ, or SL service requirements.

    My favorite oils and the ones I most mostly recommend for motorcycle use, are the "heavy-duty" oils. They are commonly misunderstood, and often referred to as "diesel oils." They are NOT energy conserving, have higher zinc levels, as high as 0.16%, and by virtue of their multi-duty have a better engine protection package than an oil that is only rated "SL". These heavy-duty oils are rated SJ or SL, plus CH-4. They are currently closer in formulation to the motorcycle specific oils and to the "SG" oils that many motorcycle makers recommend. Following are some examples of these oils, generally 15w40 oils by industry convention. There may be several other 15w40 oils that I am not familiar with.
    Castrol RX Super 15w40
    Chevron Delo 400 15w40
    Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40
    Pennzoil Long-Life 15w40
    Quaker State 4X4 Synthetic Blend 15w40
    Shell Rotella-T 15w40 (my personal favorite)
    SuperTech 2000 (WalMart) 15w40
    Valvoline All Fleet 15w40
    Castrol Syntec Blend Truck and 4X4 15w40
    Full Synthetics - for Maximum Protection

    For years Mobil One 15w50 has been a favorite of motorcyclists. In recent years it has gone from its original formulation to an improved SJ "TriSynthetic", and more recently as SL "SuperSyn." several of us have received conflicting information on this new "flavor" of Mobil One, but the consensus appears to be that the new SuperSyn has additional friction modifiers and may no longer be a good choice for motorcycles. However, I have heard from several VFR owners still using it with favorable results. Therefore, YMMV. Mobil naturally recommends their motorcycle Mobil One.

    A fairly new player in the synthetic market is Shell with Rotella-T Full Synthetic 5w40. It is not energy-conserving and according to Shell performs competitively with Mobil Delvac One full synthtetic, which means it offers even more protection than does Mobil One 15w50. A number of motorcyclists have reported to me good results so far with his use of the new Synthetic Rotella-T. I put it in my own VFR at my last oil change.
    Delvac One should be an excellent motorcycle oil but is generally available only at truck stops or in commercial quantities. For those who may have connections with a long-haul trucking operation, where Delvac One is known to be used in oil change intervals up to 150,000 miles, or even more, you may want to try it if the price is right.

    There are a number of other synthetic and semi-synthetic oils available and I have no reason to believe they are in any way inferior. Just follow the advice and use one which is not energy conserving.

    Important Note: Be sure and use the recommended viscosity range, e.g. 10w40, 20w50, etc. for the climate in your area. In general, to protect your motor use the heaviest oil you can that still meets the manufacturer's guidelines. For example, 20w50 is better in warm weather than 10w40, because it gives you a thicker oil cushion between bearing surfaces at operating temperature. For racing, a thinner oil will offer less resistance and thus more power, but will offer less protection.

    I personally believe in these oils and use nothing else in my motorcycles. As always, you have to make your own, informed decisions.

    Although not a motorcycle oil, oils with the designation "Racing Oil" are not intended for street use, generally meets "SG" requirements and has somewhat higher levels of additives, like ZDDP. An example is Valvoline's VR1 Racing oil available in 20w50 weight. These should work fine in our motorcycles.

    It clearly identifies this. In general, only the very lighter oils, like 10w30, 10w20, 5w20, are energy-conserving. All 5w40, 5w50, 10w40, 15w40, 15w50, and 20w50 oils which I have found are not energy-conserving and can be recommended for general motorcycle use.

    It is commonly mis-stated that "SJ and SL oils have friction modifiers which will cause wet clutch slippage." In reality, all oils have friction modifiers, that's how they work. ZDDP itself is a friction modifier. The real issue is to avoid getting the friction so low, with very thin oils containing extra amounts of friction modifiers, that clutches will slip under normal use. Stay away from energy conserving oils and you should be fine, if your clutch is in good working order.

    Real World Test Results
    Are there any "real world" examples of long motorcycle engine life using automotive oils? There is a good one in the June 1996 issue of Sport Rider magazine in a report called the "100,000 mile Honda CBR900RR." The owner used conventional Castrol GTX oil, 10W40 in the winter, 20W50 in the summer. He changed it every 4,000 miles, changing the filter every OTHER oil change. No valve clearance adjustments were required after the initial one at 16,000 miles. And a dyno test against the same model with only 6,722 miles showed torque and horsepower virtually identical. The 100,000 mile bike was even used for some racing. In a subsequent follow-up, the same CBR had passed 200,000 miles and was still going strong! Plus, many motorcyclists have emailed me with their very positive results using nothing but automotive oils for years in a variety of rides. Oils have changed over the past 10 years, but that just means we need to be more careful in our choices.

  50. #150
    steel_headz
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    Great....

    Worth the effort.....

    U must hv taken a lot of time doing researches....
    Rider Can Be Driver, But Driver Cannot Be Rider......

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