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Thread: [Archive] [Q&A] SBF CB400 Official Q&A Thread 2008

  1. #51
    styrx
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    My bike died again, while stopping at the traffic light. Went to adjust the idling knob, but whenever I release the trottle, the bike will die no matter how much i adjust the idling. But I still can ride off the bike. However when i drop gear going to a stop, the bike will die again. What should I do< and which way should i adjust the idling? Ever since I install th K&N filter this problem happen. Pls enlighten

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    Default Bike die after I change airfilter

    I just change to k&n filter, after moving off when i come to a stop, the bike die. I adjust the idling , but if i release the trottle immediately the bike die. However I can still ride the bike, except when i lower the gear, the bike will die again. I know i need to tune the bike. but what i can do to prevent the bike from dying on the road, so that i can go to the nearest workshop

     

     
  3. #53
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    tuning of your air:fuel ratio?
    Click below link or copy+paste for good deals!
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/417915-WTS-Shoei-XR-1100-Diabolic-Cimmerian-Mint-Condition-L-Size-CHEAP!-9-8-10?p=8191458#post8191458

    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/406472-WTS-Blaupunkt-Style-Headphones-Unopened-BNIB!

  4. #54
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    hi all... sorry out of topic. but any idea wat the price otr now for spec 3?? any 2nd hand 1?? thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by -hanzo- View Post
    hi all... sorry out of topic. but any idea wat the price otr now for spec 3?? any 2nd hand 1?? thanks
    Spec III, i think still a few more available at BP. Most bikeshops have now stock Revos.

    Quite a few Spec III on sale in Garage Sales.

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    what are the symptoms of front fork needs to be serviced?

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    what are the symptoms of front fork needs to be serviced?
    When soft and spongy under riding load.
    Stupid Hurts!.Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does
    BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

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    Quote Originally Posted by MonoWorld View Post
    what are the symptoms of front fork needs to be serviced?
    can be easily pressed, sometimes a "squash" sound may be heard..

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    Hi guys.. new s4 rider... was wondering... i was riding early morning.... 4 to 4.5 rpm arnd 70kmh. at 70kmh i changed to last gear when my bike throttle suddenly go empty.... i clutched in and drop gear until stop n neutral. at neutral throttle no feel also. my fuel still at 2 bar. i switched off engine n switched on again. press ignition switch a few times then start n throttle got feel. wat do i need to take note? sori for being long winded

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    Quote Originally Posted by longjump View Post
    Hi guys.. new s4 rider... was wondering... i was riding early morning.... 4 to 4.5 rpm arnd 70kmh. at 70kmh i changed to last gear when my bike throttle suddenly go empty.... i clutched in and drop gear until stop n neutral. at neutral throttle no feel also. my fuel still at 2 bar. i switched off engine n switched on again. press ignition switch a few times then start n throttle got feel. wat do i need to take note? sori for being long winded
    I guess you didn't warm up your bike properly before riding...

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    hmm maybe.... thanx anyway.... but i'm still worried haha

     

     
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    Quote Originally Posted by longjump View Post
    Hi guys.. new s4 rider... was wondering... i was riding early morning.... 4 to 4.5 rpm arnd 70kmh. at 70kmh i changed to last gear when my bike throttle suddenly go empty.... i clutched in and drop gear until stop n neutral. at neutral throttle no feel also. my fuel still at 2 bar. i switched off engine n switched on again. press ignition switch a few times then start n throttle got feel. wat do i need to take note? sori for being long winded
    Your engine cut-out switch (the red one above the starter pushbutton) may be working intermittently. Toggle with it (ON/OFF) a few times and then to monitor the situation again.

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    Cool upzzz for u lah....

    bro if u find gd deals pm me lah i also wann start my own renewal start cosmetics first wanns find cheap spec 3 tail fix on my spec 1 and put rear hugger..........hehehe
    You sleep when you're dead....;p

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    Quote Originally Posted by imported_wizzy_bradz View Post
    bro if u find gd deals pm me lah i also wann start my own renewal start cosmetics first wanns find cheap spec 3 tail fix on my spec 1 and put rear hugger..........hehehe
    bro, i was thinking spec 3 tail too... hahaha... any idea how much huh?
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    i was thinkin too.. but the forum ppl here who noe how to do is not frenly enuff.. they wont reply 1... any1 got idea wher can fix cheap spec 3 tail?? kindly share your idea..

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    Quote Originally Posted by Owen0606 View Post
    i was thinkin too.. but the forum ppl here who noe how to do is not frenly enuff.. they wont reply 1... any1 got idea wher can fix cheap spec 3 tail?? kindly share your idea..

    maybe if u post it at the right section, they will be able to help? i believed u clearly know there's a thread for S4 riders? that would be much more than a help

    dark mode, or light mode?


    125zi

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    cheap ah, dunno whats your budget...

    but its ard 460-480 for moulded tail without undertray.
    inclusive of LED tail light, rear fender.

    Its ard 600 if you want everything to be original.
    inclusive of everything.


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    i dun think there's any cheap spec 3 tail ba.... u will have to get it mould to fit in.... it a kinda expensive cosmetic mod.... its very stylo (as seen above) but..... pocket might hurts for some coz its onli the outlook... original tailboard oso can sit right? haha.... IMO... might as well get a spec 3 in the first place....

    TS: U might wanna ask [b]iker for all ur mods... he had wat u want....

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    Default modification

    Thank bro for moving my post to the correct section....

    Actually, for me.... i was tinking to renew and start cosmetics my S4 instead of changing, because the engine still in good condition. Why i tink to spend $$$ for modify instead of getting a new vtec3? Coz of $$$ too.. If i change from my s4 to vtec3, i tink estimated have to put in additional 5-6k, since my s4 value now only ard 3k plus.... Let say i spend 1k plus to renew and cosmetics my s4, i can enjoy the same outlook as vtec3 and total i can save of 4-5k.. correct?

    I believe for those who interested to modify their S4, oso have the same mind of me...
    Btw, modify of vtec3 tail, is legal?
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    haha... ya la... own preference most important.... dun think illegal..

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    Quote Originally Posted by TitanicLexus View Post
    Thank bro for moving my post to the correct section....

    Actually, for me.... i was tinking to renew and start cosmetics my S4 instead of changing, because the engine still in good condition. Why i tink to spend $$$ for modify instead of getting a new vtec3? Coz of $$$ too.. If i change from my s4 to vtec3, i tink estimated have to put in additional 5-6k, since my s4 value now only ard 3k plus.... Let say i spend 1k plus to renew and cosmetics my s4, i can enjoy the same outlook as vtec3 and total i can save of 4-5k.. correct?

    I believe for those who interested to modify their S4, oso have the same mind of me...
    Btw, modify of vtec3 tail, is legal?
    calculation can be both right and wrong...
    unless your bike is in an excellent condition, spending 4-5k for a new tech bike + most prob, not so much maintainance problems....

    alittle here and a little there for maintainance adds up to alot of $$....

    regards to the spec 3 tail, according to fellow bikers who also have done the mod, they seem to pass the inspection with flying colours... LOL


    Phantom TA150 ----- Gone
    CB400 Spec2---------Gone
    Yamaha X-1----------Gone
    CB400 Spec1.||| -------- Gone

    Honda Silverwing 400 - FOR SALE

     

     
  22. #72
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    go to s4 bike forum... they state that can get ard 200 to mod the tail to spec3 type, i was thinking of changing to it too if its only 200
    blurrrr.....................

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    Quote Originally Posted by fi_east View Post
    go to s4 bike forum... they state that can get ard 200 to mod the tail to spec3 type, i was thinking of changing to it too if its only 200
    The link pls....


    Phantom TA150 ----- Gone
    CB400 Spec2---------Gone
    Yamaha X-1----------Gone
    CB400 Spec1.||| -------- Gone

    Honda Silverwing 400 - FOR SALE

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    Unhappy help....

    bros this afternoon got like shock coz my front brakes like jam on the disc brakes
    can move but create so much friction i go and touch the disc kena burnt my finger is it becoz of the brake pads botak already or something else pls help juz took out my spec 1 last week.......
    Last edited by PaLmEr; 14-06-2008 at 04:23 PM.
    You sleep when you're dead....;p

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    Hi there, i can convert your s4 into a cafe racer or streetfighter if u are interested. u can see my works in cruiser section - "RIOT's Den". i do mainly cruisers, but cafe racers and streetfighters also make me drool.. haha..

    if u are thinking of modding.. my opinion is to truely mod it into something different..
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    Quote Originally Posted by fi_east View Post
    go to s4 bike forum... they state that can get ard 200 to mod the tail to spec3 type, i was thinking of changing to it too if its only 200

    Quote Originally Posted by [B]IKER View Post
    The link pls....
    YES.... link pls.... 200 buck only.. super interested....
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    Quote Originally Posted by fi_east View Post
    go to s4 bike forum... they state that can get ard 200 to mod the tail to spec3 type, i was thinking of changing to it too if its only 200
    sure or nt??$200??can show me the link
    Four Wheels Move The Body,Two Wheels Move The Soul

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    Default hmmm.....

    Quote Originally Posted by Darkness19 View Post
    sure or nt??$200??can show me the link
    yah ar bro...any specific links.....?
    cos iam sure all the riders are curious abt the good deal...

    cheers..!
    hIduP sEgAN;mAti tAk mAhu...!

  29. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by imported_wizzy_bradz View Post
    bros this afternoon got like shock coz my front brakes like jam on the disc brakes
    can move but create so much friction i go and touch the disc kena burnt my finger is it becoz of the brake pads botak already or something else pls help juz took out my spec 1 last week.......
    bring it to a bike shop to check..

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    I went for motorworld today, they quote me the price for modify spec3 tail is $400 and $450 two diff price. The different is $400 one is same pattern as spec3 tail, $450 one will be different for the number plate part there, look more nicer than original.

    Beside this one, they quote me the price for respray and change those old items and add something. The price they quoted depend of my request such as new signal light, respray all the cover part, respray rim, respray belly, new fairing, respray box, respray some engine part n polish other old item etc total ard $650...

    I still consider for my renewal and respray project, total cost ard $1,200, time taken around two week time, make it totally diff.....wooo...
    Last edited by TitanicLexus; 13-06-2008 at 11:17 PM.
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    a question to ask...

    can a version s rear hugger able to fit on s4 spec II?? pls help...

     

     
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    $200 woah!! cheap cheap... wat i heard is $400 to $500. hmmmm... any1 might help??

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    Default hello........

    Quote Originally Posted by LAZIAF85 View Post
    a question to ask...

    can a version s rear hugger able to fit on s4 spec II?? pls help...
    nope ask shop before.........
    You sleep when you're dead....;p

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    Quote Originally Posted by [B]IKER View Post
    cheap ah, dunno whats your budget...

    but its ard 460-480 for moulded tail without undertray.
    inclusive of LED tail light, rear fender.

    Its ard 600 if you want everything to be original.
    inclusive of everything.
    gulpz..600? might as well get a yoshi rite.. add 30 more can get full rainbow


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    seek Death & u'll feel Lighter..

  35. #85
    PaLmEr
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    Quote Originally Posted by imported_wizzy_bradz View Post
    bros this afternoon got like shock coz my front brakes like jam on the disc brakes
    can move but create so much friction i go and touch the disc kena burnt my finger is it becoz of the brake pads botak already or something else pls help juz took out my spec 1 last week.......
    sounds like jammed brake piston seals

  36. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by imported_wizzy_bradz View Post
    bros this afternoon got like shock coz my front brakes like jam on the disc brakes
    can move but create so much friction i go and touch the disc kena burnt my finger is it becoz of the brake pads botak already or something else pls help juz took out my spec 1 last week.......
    ur brake calipers needs a service. go to bike shop.
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    - Feel free to contact Thomas aka s4vtec @ 969-11-787 should you have any questions about your S4. -

  37. #87
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    This post and a few others to follow will provide an easy reference-guide to the more common faults that are likely to afflict your bike.

    Problem with your bike are almost limitless and to try and cover all eventualities would require a book. But what you gonna see here down the line are just about every books for a mototiam mechanic to know would be covered..well..the least said..hopefully...LOL!

    Successful troubleshooting is not that difficult but with some knowledge combined with a systematic and logical approach, it can be a routine thingy after awhile.

    To start off right, the first approach is by accurately identifying the symptom and then checking through the list of possible causes, starting with the simplest or most obvious and progressing in stages to the most complex...however one has to apply liberal quantities of common sense.

    What you gonna read in the next post is the main symptom of a fault given as the major heading followed below by a list... the various systems or areas which may contain the fault. Possible cause for a fault and recommended remedial to be taken are given in brief below each heading.

    Ok..without further ado..let us have the first installment in..

    Please note that all that you are about to read are abstract from books articles written by professional mechanics. Any injury/injuries caused by DIY base on what you read here is not the responsibility of the poster here..these are purely for knowledge and "know-how..know-what" and always recommended to be carried out by an experience mechanic. Otherwise, if you are capable..its all at your own risk.
    Last edited by Ah Pek; 15-06-2008 at 04:28 AM.
    Stupid Hurts!.Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does
    BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

  38. #88
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    1 Engine doesn't start or is difficult to start

    Starter motor doesn't rotate

    1) Engine kill switch OFF.

    2) Fuse blown. Check main fuse.

    3) Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery.

    4) Starter motor defective. Make sure the wiring to the starter is secure.
    Make sure the starter relay clicks when the start button is pushed. If the
    relay clicks, then the fault is in the wiring or motor.

    5) Starter relay faulty.

    6) Starter switch not contacting. The contacts could be wet, corroded or
    dirty. Disassemble and clean the switch.

    7) Wiring open or shorted. Check all wiring connections and harnesses to
    make sure that they are dry, tight and not corroded. Also check for
    broken or frayed wires that can cause a short to earth.

    8) Ignition (main) switch defective. Renew the switch if it is defective.

    9) Engine kill switch defective. Check for wet, dirty or corroded
    contacts.

    10) Faulty neutral, sidestand or clutch switch. Check the wiring to each
    switch and the switch itself accordingly.


    Starter motor rotates but engine does not turn over

    1) Starter motor clutch defective. Inspect and repair or renew

    2) Damaged idler or starter gears. Inspect and renew the damaged
    parts.


    Starter works but engine won't turn over (seized)

    1) Seized engine caused by one or more internally damaged components.

    Failure due to wear, abuse or lack of lubrication. Damage can include
    seized valves, followers, camshafts, pistons, crankshaft, connecting rod
    bearings, or transmission gears or bearings.


    No fuel flow

    1) No fuel in tank.

    2) Fuel tank breather nose obstructed.

    3) Fuel tap filter or in-line filter clogged. Remove the tap and clean it and the
    filters.

    4) Fuel line clogged. Pull the fuel line loose and carefully blow through it.

    5) Float needle valve clogged. For all of the valves to be clogged, either a
    very bad batch of fuel with an unusual additive has been used, or some
    other foreign material has entered the tank. Many times after a machine
    has been stored for many months without running, the fuel turns to a
    varnish-like liquid and forms deposits on the inlet needle valves and jets.

    The carburettors should be removed and overhauled if draining the float
    chambers doesn't solve the problem.


    Engine flooded

    1) Float height too high.

    2) Float needle valve worn or stuck open. A piece of dirt, rust or other debris
    can cause the valve to seat improperly, causing excess fuel to be
    admitted to the float chamber. In this case, the float chamber should be
    cleaned and the needle valve and seat inspected. If the needle and seat
    are worn, then the leaking will persist and the parts should be renewed

    3) Starting technique incorrect. Under normal circumstances (ie, if all the
    carburettor functions are sound) the machine should start with little or no
    throttle. When the engine is cold, the choke should be operated and the
    engine started without opening the throttle.

    When the engine is at operating temperature, only a very slight amount of
    throttle should be necessary. If the engine is flooded, turn the fuel tap
    OFF and hold the throttle open while cranking the engine. This will allow
    additional air to reach the cylinders. Remember to turn the fuel tap back
    ON after the engine starts.

    ....to be continued
    Stupid Hurts!.Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does
    BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

  39. #89
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    No spark or weak spark

    1) Ignition switch OFF. Engine kill switch turned to the OFF position
    Battery voltage low. Check and recharge the battery as necessary
    Spark plugs dirty, defective or worn out. Locate reason for fouled plugs
    using spark plug condition chart at the end of this manual and follow the
    plug maintenance procedures.

    2) Spark plug caps or secondary (HT) wiring faulty. Check condition. Renew
    if cracks or deterioration are evident.

    3) Spark plug caps not making good contact. Make sure that the plug
    caps fit snugly over the plug ends.

    4) Ignition control unit defective.

    5) Pulse generator coil(s) defective.

    6) Ignition HT coils defective.

    Ignition or kill switch shorted. This is usually caused by water, corrosion,
    damage or excessive wear. The switches can be disassembled and cleaned
    with electrical contact cleaner. If cleaning does not help, renew the
    switches.

    Wiring shorted or broken between:

    1) Ignition (main) switch and engine kill switch (or blown fuse)
    2) Ignition control unit and engine kill switch
    3) Ignition control unit and ignition HT coils
    4) Ignition HT coils and spark plugs
    5) Ignition control unit and pulse generator□ Make sure that all wiring
    connections are clean, dry and tight. Look for chafed and broken
    wires.

    Compression low

    1) Spark plugs loose. Remove the plugs and inspect their threads. Reinstall
    and tighten securely.

    2) Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down. If the cylinder head is
    suspected of being loose, then there's a chance that the gasket or head
    is damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of time. The head
    nuts should be tightened to the proper torque in the correct sequence.

    Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve is not closing
    completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve. Check and
    adjust the valve clearances.

    Cylinder and/or piston worn. Excessive wear will cause compression
    pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually accompanied by worn rings
    as well. A top-end overhaul is necessary.

    3) Piston rings worn, weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking piston rings
    usually indicate a lubrication or carburation problem that causes excess
    carbon deposits or seizures to form on the pistons and rings. Top-end
    overhaul Is necessary.

    Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused by excessive
    wear of the piston ring lands. Piston renewal is necessary.

    Cylinder head gasket damaged, If a head is allowed to become loose, or if
    excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and combustion chamber
    causes extremely high compression, the head gasket may leak. Retorquing
    the head is not always sufficient to restore the seal, so gasket renewal is
    necessary.

    Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or improperly
    tightened head nuts. Machine shop resurfacing or head renewal is
    necessary.

    ...to be continued
    Stupid Hurts!.Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does
    BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

  40. #90
    [B]IKER
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    Quote Originally Posted by deviLLian View Post
    gulpz..600? might as well get a yoshi rite.. add 30 more can get full rainbow

    already have the full rainbow...


    Phantom TA150 ----- Gone
    CB400 Spec2---------Gone
    Yamaha X-1----------Gone
    CB400 Spec1.||| -------- Gone

    Honda Silverwing 400 - FOR SALE

  41. #91
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    1 Engine doesn't start or is difficult to start

    Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or wear; the springs must be renewed.

    Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from over-revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat (improper carburation) or an accumulation of carbon deposits on the seat (from carburation or lubrication problems).

    The valves must be cleaned and/or renewed and the seats serviced if possible.


    Stalls after starting

    1) Improper choke action. Make sure the choke linkage shaft is getting a full
    stroke and staying in the out position.

    2) Ignition malfunction.

    3) Fuel contaminated. The fuel can be contaminated with either dirt or water,
    or can change chemically if the machine is allowed to sit for several
    months or more. Drain the tank and float chambers.


    to be continued...
    Last edited by Ah Pek; 16-06-2008 at 01:59 AM.
    Stupid Hurts!.Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does
    BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

     

     
  42. #92
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    lah .........

  43. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by smiley73 View Post
    lah .........
    ...hope its real useful...btw...help rate this thread leh
    Stupid Hurts!.Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does
    BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

  44. #94
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    good man.. maybe next time free will post some write-ups from "cycle world" or "two wheels"... save people the $ from buying..

    =]
    Two Wheelers By Choice!

    Ride Right to Live.

  45. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ah Pek View Post
    ...hope its real useful...btw...help rate this thread leh
    how 2 help 2 rate>???

    HAte My Gold Rims and Red shocks~!!!

  46. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4D~ToTo~Big Sweep View Post
    how 2 help 2 rate>???
    Bro, scroll up to the top of the thread and look for "Rating". Click on it to rate.
    Pulsar UG3 (Mar 07 -> 21 Jan 2009)
    S4 Ver S. (Scrapped May 2010)
    S4 Revo (05 Aug 2010 -> current)

  47. #97
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    hehe my advice to all wat ah pek type here save a soft copy so tt u can use it as a reference instead having to come sbf to get the info .. some pple may feel wat he stated untrue but still no harm to keep it as a reference as you might wrong ...

    for ah pek work ..

  48. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by edition View Post
    hehe my advice to all wat ah pek type here save a soft copy so tt u can use it as a reference instead having to come sbf to get the info .. some pple may feel wat he stated untrue but still no harm to keep it as a reference as you might wrong ...

    for ah pek work ..

    Thankz Bro... me voted already

    Ah pek Rockz

    HAte My Gold Rims and Red shocks~!!!

  49. #99
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    Continue...


    2 Poor running at low speeds


    Spark weak

    Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery. Spark plugs fouled, defective or worn out. Refer to Chapter 1 for spark plug maintenance.

    1) Spark plug cap or HT wiring defective.

    2) Spark plug caps not making contact.

    3) Incorrect spark plugs. Wrong type, heat range or cap configuration.

    4) Ignition control unit defective.

    5) Pulse generator defective.

    6) Ignition HT coils defective.


    Fuel/air mixture incorrect

    1) Pilot screws out of adjustment.

    Pilot jet or air passage clogged. Remove and overhaul the carburettors.

    Air bleed holes clogged. Remove carburettor and blow out all passages.

    Air filter clogged, poorly sealed or missing.

    Air filter housing poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose clamps and
    renew or repair defective parts.

    2) Fuel level too high or too low. Check the float height.

    3) Fuel tank breather hose obstructed.

    4) Carburettor inlet manifolds loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears
    or loose clamps. Renew the rubber inlet manifold joints if split or
    perished.


    Compression low

    1) Spark plugs loose. Remove the plugs and inspect their threads.
    Reinstall and tighten securely.

    2) Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down. If the cylinder head is
    suspected of being loose, then there's a chance that the gasket and head
    are damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of time. The head
    nuts should be tightened to the proper torque in the correct sequence.

    Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve is not closing
    completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve. Check and
    adjust the valve clearances.

    3) Cylinder and/or piston worn. Excessive wear Will cause compression
    pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually accompanied by worn rings
    as well. A top-end overhaul Is necessary.

    Piston rings worn, weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking piston
    rings usually indicate a lubrication or carburation problem that causes
    excess carbon deposits or seizures to form on the pistons and rings.
    Top-end overhaul is necessary.

    Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused by excessive
    wear of the piston ring lands. Piston renewal is necessary.

    Cylinder head gasket damaged. If a head is allowed to become loose, or if
    excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and combustion chamber
    causes extremely nigh compression, the head gasket may leak. Retorquing
    the head is not always sufficient tn restore the seal, so gasket renewal is
    necessary.

    Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or improperly
    tightened head nuts. Machine shop resurfacing or head renewal is
    necessary.

    Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or wear; the
    springs must be renewed.

    Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from over-
    revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat (improper
    carburation) or an accumulation of carbon deposits on the seat (from
    carburation, lubrication problems). The valves must be cleaned and/or
    renewed and the seats serviced if possible.


    Poor acceleration

    1) Carburettors leaking or dirty. Overhaul the carburettors.

    2) Timing not advancing. The pulse generator or the ignition control module
    may be defective. If so, they must be renewed, as they can't be repaired.

    3) Carburettors not synchronised. Adjust then with a vacuum gauge set or
    manometer.

    4) Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than that recommended
    can damage the oil pump or lubrication system and cause drag on the
    engine.

    5) Brakes dragging. Usually caused by debris which has entered the brake
    piston seals, or from a warped disc or bent axle. Repair as necessary.



    to be continued....
    Stupid Hurts!.Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does
    BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

  50. #100
    inspire85
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    Upz for u ah pek! But some of the info too chim or can't diy one..
    Max
    SpecIII Rider




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