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Thread: Subaru Impreza 5D 1.5R

  1. #101
    tranceaddict
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    Quote Originally Posted by sICkbOi-dOt-cOm View Post
    are you still an addict?
    Still an addict. Trance music addict...


    Bike history:
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  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by MinistryofAlex View Post
    wah i also fit into human category...

    sometimes i just treat my car like tamiya
    Wah seh... When in pri school, i can't even afford a Tamiya... Can only look2, see2...


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  3. #103
    hit.man
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    Quote Originally Posted by Demon View Post
    Only the STi are 5x114.3. All others scoobies are 5x100
    Thanx for the info!

    Quote Originally Posted by West Spec View Post
    i got it done up at Car Beauty at Eunos Industrial Park such gauge are costy imo but of cos i am using Pro Sport fr Taiwan not Defi which definately cost times more.. well once in a while there are forumers in e scooby forum letting off their used gauges at reasonable price. Back to e qns wht kinda brand n gauges u are lookin at?

    My advice if u wan something tht look neat n diff well perhaps u might wan to consider this below:
    *PLACE IT ON THE CENTRE OF UR FRONT DASHBOARD OR ON THE TOP RIGHT CORNER OF UR WINDSCREEN NEXT TO UR PILLAR


    *PLACE IT UNDER THE IU UNIT NICE AND NEAT (CAN GET FR CLARKEWAN)

    Actually I have no particular brand in mind as I am quite noob with these things. Just wanna go for something reliable and won't break down on me every now and then. Taiwan brands are fine for me if they have been proven to be reliable
    What are the usual gauges ppl fix? Volt, oil temp and water temp? Of course I know mine is just a normal scooby and won't require things like turbo meter/timer etc... haha...

    Quote Originally Posted by West Spec View Post
    If u are lookin at Prosport Gauges well u can try out Miracle at Turf City, Fab X at ubi, etc... or if u wan i can help u ask my usual audio shop at balestier if he sell such gauges as i last saw few mths back he got 1 -2 on display.

    ***LASTLY I WILL AVOID THT SHOP U MENTION***
    Will check out the shops you mentioned and noted on your advice abt the shop I mentioned... hahahaha...

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by friedfishz View Post

    Actually I have no particular brand in mind as I am quite noob with these things. Just wanna go for something reliable and won't break down on me every now and then. Taiwan brands are fine for me if they have been proven to be reliable
    What are the usual gauges ppl fix? Volt, oil temp and water temp? Of course I know mine is just a normal scooby and won't require things like turbo meter/timer etc... haha...
    You want a meter that can read off almost all the signals direct from the ECU, and do a whole of useful functions, and can read and clear error codes and cost less than one of those fancy meter ?

    http://www.scangauge.com/


  5. #105
    hit.man
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    Quote Originally Posted by Demon View Post
    You want a meter that can read off almost all the signals direct from the ECU, and do a whole of useful functions, and can read and clear error codes and cost less than one of those fancy meter ?

    http://www.scangauge.com/

    haha... i prefer those round round one leh...

  6. #106
    West Spec
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    Quote Originally Posted by friedfishz View Post

    Actually I have no particular brand in mind as I am quite noob with these things. Just wanna go for something reliable and won't break down on me every now and then. Taiwan brands are fine for me if they have been proven to be reliable
    What are the usual gauges ppl fix? Volt, oil temp and water temp? Of course I know mine is just a normal scooby and won't require things like turbo meter/timer etc... haha...



    Will check out the shops you mentioned and noted on your advice abt the shop I mentioned... hahahaha...
    Common installed gauges are:
    Volt, Water Temp n Oil Temp
    Volt, Oil Temp n Vacuum
    Volt, Water Temp n Vacuum.
    I am on Water Temp, Oil Temp n Volt.

    As of so far there hasn't been any prob wif my gauges (although there are negative feedback on certain brand of gauges tht are posted in e forum but still there are alot of them installed so i shall put in this way u risk ur luck ba as nothing is gurantee even ex one like D*Fi might also hav error once in a blue moon..)

    wht Demon had mention scangauge is indeed a gd meter wif lots of function unlike e usual known. Hmm maybe u can consider Stri this brand http://www.striracing.com/pro.htm but price of item i am not sure u might wan to drop by Mcwell Venture to take a look.

    Turbo Timer like Pivot could be good if u like features like e Timer shut down function for ur engine after u park ur car (own personal preference) furthermore other features included like Volt, Turbo Timer n O2 something...

    The Light Began to dim.. Music Fading out.. I Begin to Miss You
    ......................The Visual Cycle..........................

  7. #107
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    stri i rmb is 70 bucks but dunno got include sensor and install anot..

    OT.. ian ytd nite so late go where ah!!! with neegie

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by Demon View Post
    Only the STi are 5x114.3. All others scoobies are 5x100
    my bad.. 5 dr is 5 x 100
    Last edited by MinistryofAlex; 07-12-2009 at 10:46 AM.

  9. #109
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    guys, i've got a 4ftx4ft 3m dry carbon fibre sticker for sale. interested?
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums....php?p=6023177

  10. #110
    West Spec
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    Quote Originally Posted by MinistryofAlex View Post
    stri i rmb is 70 bucks but dunno got include sensor and install anot..

    OT.. ian ytd nite so late go where ah!!! with neegie
    makan dinner can or not ahh... Mr Alex???

    The Light Began to dim.. Music Fading out.. I Begin to Miss You
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  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by MinistryofAlex View Post
    stri i rmb is 70 bucks but dunno got include sensor and install anot..

    OT.. ian ytd nite so late go where ah!!! with neegie
    Ohh... U spotted us..!! Den Where u going or come back from ahz..
    Mr Alex alone..?? Hehe..
    Nv approach us.. we can go lai kopi mah..
    We the safe riders, pledge to be alert at all times,considerate to other road users and follow all traffic rules so as to make riding a safer and more enjoyable experience.
    We pledge to ride safely and stay alive.

     

     
  12. #112
    hit.man
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    Quote Originally Posted by West Spec View Post
    Common installed gauges are:
    Volt, Water Temp n Oil Temp
    Volt, Oil Temp n Vacuum
    Volt, Water Temp n Vacuum.
    I am on Water Temp, Oil Temp n Volt.

    As of so far there hasn't been any prob wif my gauges (although there are negative feedback on certain brand of gauges tht are posted in e forum but still there are alot of them installed so i shall put in this way u risk ur luck ba as nothing is gurantee even ex one like D*Fi might also hav error once in a blue moon..)

    wht Demon had mention scangauge is indeed a gd meter wif lots of function unlike e usual known. Hmm maybe u can consider Stri this brand http://www.striracing.com/pro.htm but price of item i am not sure u might wan to drop by Mcwell Venture to take a look.

    Turbo Timer like Pivot could be good if u like features like e Timer shut down function for ur engine after u park ur car (own personal preference) furthermore other features included like Volt, Turbo Timer n O2 something...
    Thanx for the info bro. How much did you pay to fix up the 3 gauges? Will pay Mcwell a visit end of this week and maybe get it fixed up...

    But first gotta send the car in to the service centre... the steering got problem... When the steering wheel is straightened, the car can't go straight... always drift to the right... haiz...

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by West Spec View Post
    makan dinner can or not ahh... Mr Alex???
    dun kay kay ah 9.30!!

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neegie View Post
    Ohh... U spotted us..!! Den Where u going or come back from ahz..
    Mr Alex alone..?? Hehe..
    Nv approach us.. we can go lai kopi mah..
    i was crossing the road to hub (mei zhen xiang there, then saw ian's car and wave!!! but bo chup me!!!

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by friedfishz View Post
    Thanx for the info bro. How much did you pay to fix up the 3 gauges? Will pay Mcwell a visit end of this week and maybe get it fixed up...

    But first gotta send the car in to the service centre... the steering got problem... When the steering wheel is straightened, the car can't go straight... always drift to the right... haiz...
    holding straight drift to either side is alignment out or tire related for common case, free hand swerve to either side is normal!!! sg road not flat

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by friedfishz View Post
    But first gotta send the car in to the service centre... the steering got problem... When the steering wheel is straightened, the car can't go straight... always drift to the right... haiz...
    Be prepared to get their motherhood reply "It's liddat one"

    Seriously, the roads are cambered to one side for drainage purpose so you car will never track straight forever.

    If you hold on to your steering wheel straight, drive at a constant speed, say 60kph, with hands off the wheel, the car should track straight, and only after a while, it will slowly drift to the side which the road is cambered.

    If you are steering the car, you should not have to fight the steering for it to track straight, and if you hands off the steering, it should not suddenly veer to either side.

    All these can be corrected by alignment. If you replace shocks, coil, change to different size rims, or hit a kerb even at parking speed, you should get your alignment check.


  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by friedfishz View Post
    Thanx for the info bro. How much did you pay to fix up the 3 gauges? Will pay Mcwell a visit end of this week and maybe get it fixed up...

    But first gotta send the car in to the service centre... the steering got problem... When the steering wheel is straightened, the car can't go straight... always drift to the right... haiz...
    I paid ard $450+/- can't recall but its ard tht price, btw i hav call up to check wif my usual audio shop dealer it would cost ard e range $440 - $480+ for Pro Sport Gauges. Price varies dependin on e type of gauge n if its dual colour or single colour gauge. Bare in mind Mcwell items are not cheap either so do practice some resistance if u are not in hurry to get these gauges

    Quote Originally Posted by MinistryofAlex View Post
    dun kay kay ah 9.30!!
    Waa Timing also hav ahh.. (U spy me ahh hehe.. )
    Quote Originally Posted by MinistryofAlex View Post
    i was crossing the road to hub (mei zhen xiang there, then saw ian's car and wave!!! but bo chup me!!!
    Pai seh pai seh veri hungry liao after a tired day revising for my mid exam (Hungry Man See Nothing haha my bad.. Sori)


    Quote Originally Posted by Demon View Post
    Be prepared to get their motherhood reply "It's liddat one"
    ooh tht piece of sentence ahh i always see tht in e scooby forum haha..

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  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by friedfishz View Post
    How much did you pay to fix up the 3 gauges? Will pay Mcwell a visit end of this week and maybe get it fixed up...
    Before you decide where to fix the gauges, I suggest you walk around the shop and check their quality of work.

    Few years back, I was at this very reputable garage. There was a WRX having some gauges installed, the technician opened up the ECU, located at the floorboard on the front passenger side, and he was happily cutting off the wires by trial and error to tap the signal to the gauges. Those wrong ones will twisted back together and taped over with electrical insulation.

    That type of workmanship is definitely not acceptable to me. Maybe it's just me


  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by MinistryofAlex View Post
    i was crossing the road to hub (mei zhen xiang there, then saw ian's car and wave!!! but bo chup me!!!
    Oh.. He bo chup u.. why didnt u walk over tap tap on his car..
    Den... **Opps.. not accidentally one..** hehe..
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  20. #120
    hit.man
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    Quote Originally Posted by Demon View Post
    Be prepared to get their motherhood reply "It's liddat one"

    Seriously, the roads are cambered to one side for drainage purpose so you car will never track straight forever.

    If you hold on to your steering wheel straight, drive at a constant speed, say 60kph, with hands off the wheel, the car should track straight, and only after a while, it will slowly drift to the side which the road is cambered.

    If you are steering the car, you should not have to fight the steering for it to track straight, and if you hands off the steering, it should not suddenly veer to either side.

    All these can be corrected by alignment. If you replace shocks, coil, change to different size rims, or hit a kerb even at parking speed, you should get your alignment check.

    I dun think its the road condition. I tried it on a straight, flat road and the problem still persist. While driving, I did not hands off the steering wheel. The thing is that I need to turn the steering wheel slightly to the left to keep the vehicle going straight. If I turn it to the straight position, the car will slowly go towards the right. That's an alignment problem?

  21. #121
    hit.man
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    Quote Originally Posted by Demon View Post
    Before you decide where to fix the gauges, I suggest you walk around the shop and check their quality of work.

    Few years back, I was at this very reputable garage. There was a WRX having some gauges installed, the technician opened up the ECU, located at the floorboard on the front passenger side, and he was happily cutting off the wires by trial and error to tap the signal to the gauges. Those wrong ones will twisted back together and taped over with electrical insulation.

    That type of workmanship is definitely not acceptable to me. Maybe it's just me

    Wah, this is not acceptable to me too. I don't need any mech to trial and error on my car.

     

     
  22. #122
    MinistryofAlex
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    Quote Originally Posted by friedfishz View Post
    I dun think its the road condition. I tried it on a straight, flat road and the problem still persist. While driving, I did not hands off the steering wheel. The thing is that I need to turn the steering wheel slightly to the left to keep the vehicle going straight. If I turn it to the straight position, the car will slowly go towards the right. That's an alignment problem?
    most likely... if not, u got bigger problems

  23. #123
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    i have to agree even reputation workshops also will have poor standards sometimes.. case to case basis, maybe the mech still a noob to scooby at that point of time.

    best is still stay ard there to see their workmanship while they're fixing up smaller stuffs

  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neegie View Post
    Oh.. He bo chup u.. why didnt u walk over tap tap on his car..
    Den... **Opps.. not accidentally one..** hehe..
    i paiseh la, somemore he on moving speed.. u wan me to die ah

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by MinistryofAlex View Post
    i paiseh la, somemore he on moving speed.. u wan me to die ah
    mai pai seh lah.. haha.. i won't kill u one.. scooby no kill ka ki lang haha...

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  26. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by Demon View Post
    Before you decide where to fix the gauges, I suggest you walk around the shop and check their quality of work.

    Few years back, I was at this very reputable garage. There was a WRX having some gauges installed, the technician opened up the ECU, located at the floorboard on the front passenger side, and he was happily cutting off the wires by trial and error to tap the signal to the gauges. Those wrong ones will twisted back together and taped over with electrical insulation.

    That type of workmanship is definitely not acceptable to me. Maybe it's just me

    such trial n error one word F**K UP i will nv accept tht kind of standard.. Well i hav onli patronise them once, bought a Pivot Volt Stab fr them n got it install in my dad's van thts few yrs back.

    Quote Originally Posted by friedfishz View Post
    I dun think its the road condition. I tried it on a straight, flat road and the problem still persist. While driving, I did not hands off the steering wheel. The thing is that I need to turn the steering wheel slightly to the left to keep the vehicle going straight. If I turn it to the straight position, the car will slowly go towards the right. That's an alignment problem?
    Well its either u return to Harrey Potter or u go to tire shop to hav them check on ur alignment.
    Quote Originally Posted by friedfishz View Post
    Wah, this is not acceptable to me too. I don't need any mech to trial and error on my car.
    Hmm think u better get some reputable workshop wif gd mechanic to hand on ur ride..

    The Light Began to dim.. Music Fading out.. I Begin to Miss You
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  27. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by West Spec View Post
    mai pai seh lah.. haha.. i won't kill u one.. scooby no kill ka ki lang haha...
    btw y ur car suddenly so quiet..

  28. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by MinistryofAlex View Post
    btw y ur car suddenly so quiet..
    Noisy not gd.. quiet is still a wiser choice.. haha.. i'm on stock extractor mah..

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  29. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by MinistryofAlex View Post
    btw y ur car suddenly so quiet..
    He on secretive mode mah.. but den still kanna spot by u.. Chey~~!
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  30. #130
    hit.man
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    yeah! Finally an off day tomorrow.. can go do some shopping for the car already!

  31. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by friedfishz View Post
    wah the 1.5R is really very laggy... moving off from standstill is a headache... throttle response also very terok... anyways to improve it? like make the throttle more responsive? For bike, I would have changed the air filter and change the exhaust and the throttle response and acceleration will be greatly improved. Does it work the same for car?
    Something you could consider installing, Pivot 3 drive or Blitz throttle controller..it doesn`t increase up HP,but tricks ur ecu into opening the valve bigger even if you r not stepping too hard on ur accelerator thus giving better acceleration..Read up more info in the link..hope this helps..

    http://www.sg3gwrx.com/index.php?topic=4209.15

     

     
  32. #132
    hit.man
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    Quote Originally Posted by warblade View Post
    Something you could consider installing, Pivot 3 drive or Blitz throttle controller..it doesn`t increase up HP,but tricks ur ecu into opening the valve bigger even if you r not stepping too hard on ur accelerator thus giving better acceleration..Read up more info in the link..hope this helps..

    http://www.sg3gwrx.com/index.php?topic=4209.15
    Yeah I am considering that now... but its kinda costly...

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    imho if i have a budget of $400-$600, pivot, blitz, tuning... i will still take tuning package first then maybe in future i will get the controller toy to fulfil my urge. Save up more and hold ur horse first, by the times come u will realise u will be saving $.. dun be penny foolish

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    Quote Originally Posted by MinistryofAlex View Post
    imho if i have a budget of $400-$600, pivot, blitz, tuning... i will still take tuning package first then maybe in future i will get the controller toy to fulfil my urge. Save up more and hold ur horse first, by the times come u will realise u will be saving $.. dun be penny foolish
    I'm sure friedfishz is expecting a very healthy bonus, and what's more his new car, so it's normal behavior wanting to splurge.

    Do take note that the Pivot 3 drive or Blitz throttle controller is not a performance mod. I have tested an E-throttle system, it felt good initially but after a while your foot get use to it, it's back to square one.

    On a bike, that's equivalent to changing the throttle tube that has a better mechanical advantage than the stock tube but a throttle tube cost less than $35


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    hit.man
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    Quote Originally Posted by Demon View Post
    I'm sure friedfishz is expecting a very healthy bonus, and what's more his new car, so it's normal behavior wanting to splurge.

    Do take note that the Pivot 3 drive or Blitz throttle controller is not a performance mod. I have tested an E-throttle system, it felt good initially but after a while your foot get use to it, it's back to square one.

    On a bike, that's equivalent to changing the throttle tube that has a better mechanical advantage than the stock tube but a throttle tube cost less than $35

    No lah... bonus not healthy at all... haiz.. think about it also sad. Agree that I feel like splurging but the pocket not deep enough. Anyway, I think its also good to spread out the modifications so that the car can last me longer... haha.. do it one at a time, once a month... hehe... I think I'll skip Pivot 3 Drive for now cuz its too expensive and I agree with you that very soon, I will get used to it and it will be back to square one...

    Quote Originally Posted by MinistryofAlex View Post
    imho if i have a budget of $400-$600, pivot, blitz, tuning... i will still take tuning package first then maybe in future i will get the controller toy to fulfil my urge. Save up more and hold ur horse first, by the times come u will realise u will be saving $.. dun be penny foolish
    Tuning package? Wouldn't it be useful only after I fix the exhaust and unichip?

    Anyway I just threw in the drop-in K&N Air Filter... car feels slightly better. Not too sure if CAI would have any big improvement?

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    like i said unichip is not really a must nowadays, unichip + tune is ard $900.

    afterall unichip is not standalone and reflash programs has been getting better and better nowadays.

    Why ppl use unichip in the past: turbo module for tc cars, speed cut removal 180km, if board get short circuited it will burn unichip first, reflash programs not that stable lesser functions etc.

    After years of reflash programs improvement, reflashing and standalone will be the ones continue to move forward, piggyback already stagnant. and nowadays u can fetch a 2nd hand stock ecu at dirt cheap price, there's practically nothing to worry.

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    hit.man
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    Quote Originally Posted by MinistryofAlex View Post
    like i said unichip is not really a must nowadays, unichip + tune is ard $900.

    afterall unichip is not standalone and reflash programs has been getting better and better nowadays.

    Why ppl use unichip in the past: turbo module for tc cars, speed cut removal 180km, if board get short circuited it will burn unichip first, reflash programs not that stable lesser functions etc.

    After years of reflash programs improvement, reflashing and standalone will be the ones continue to move forward, piggyback already stagnant. and nowadays u can fetch a 2nd hand stock ecu at dirt cheap price, there's practically nothing to worry.

    what do you mean by reflash and how do we do it? is it a programme for our stock ecu or is it something like a unichip?

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    hmm i put it in a easy way,

    A car with unichip is like having 2 motherboard in a cpu, unichip will act as a frontline storing all the info and passing it downwards, while ur stock ecu remains as a support. Unichip also requires tuning either by loading pre-maps in or custom maps, so these info will be kept in unichip.

    Reflash aka open source tuning, data and tuning perimeters will be kept inside ur stock ecu. 1 cpu 1 motherboard logic.

    Standalone means a whole aftermarket ecu replacing ur stock ecu, more perimeters, more function, more support.

    In this case, hardwares are stuff like ur ecu, unichip or standalone.

    Software is tuning programs, machiam ms office vs openoffice

    Impt factors is ur tuner.

    There're online guide to reflash ur vehicle if u wan to but u need to buy the cable to connect to ur ecu first from US. And fyi is like programming, so better leave it to the experts.

    Use a stock car for example, no mods.
    Tuning can go:
    According to driver its requirement, means car will behaves according to wat the driver expects and not after tuning must go get used to the power and new setting.

    Tuning also can go:
    According to make/model max capabilities, max out ur parts duty cycle, making it leaner and squeeze every single bit of juice out from the metal body, then u will accomodate according to the car.

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    Quote Originally Posted by friedfishz View Post
    what do you mean by reflash and how do we do it? is it a programme for our stock ecu or is it something like a unichip?
    You have to consider really carefully when you want to mettle with the ECU.

    The factory ECU mapping is usually the balance of emission constraints, fuel consumption, performance, reliability...etc. If you change any parameter, you will upset the balance, you may gain something but at the expense of others.

    If you want to real noticeable difference, then you must prepare to deviate drastically from the factory setting, and the consequences will be reliability, and warranty, since your car is still so new


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    Quote Originally Posted by MinistryofAlex View Post
    hmm i put it in a easy way,

    A car with unichip is like having 2 motherboard in a cpu, unichip will act as a frontline storing all the info and passing it downwards, while ur stock ecu remains as a support. Unichip also requires tuning either by loading pre-maps in or custom maps, so these info will be kept in unichip.

    Reflash aka open source tuning, data and tuning perimeters will be kept inside ur stock ecu. 1 cpu 1 motherboard logic.

    Standalone means a whole aftermarket ecu replacing ur stock ecu, more perimeters, more function, more support.

    In this case, hardwares are stuff like ur ecu, unichip or standalone.

    Software is tuning programs, machiam ms office vs openoffice

    Impt factors is ur tuner.

    There're online guide to reflash ur vehicle if u wan to but u need to buy the cable to connect to ur ecu first from US. And fyi is like programming, so better leave it to the experts.

    Use a stock car for example, no mods.
    Tuning can go:
    According to driver its requirement, means car will behaves according to wat the driver expects and not after tuning must go get used to the power and new setting.

    Tuning also can go:
    According to make/model max capabilities, max out ur parts duty cycle, making it leaner and squeeze every single bit of juice out from the metal body, then u will accomodate according to the car.
    Quote Originally Posted by Demon View Post
    You have to consider really carefully when you want to mettle with the ECU.

    The factory ECU mapping is usually the balance of emission constraints, fuel consumption, performance, reliability...etc. If you change any parameter, you will upset the balance, you may gain something but at the expense of others.

    If you want to real noticeable difference, then you must prepare to deviate drastically from the factory setting, and the consequences will be reliability, and warranty, since your car is still so new

    Thanx for the explanation! Sounds too risky to me... I'll leave the ecu stock for now...

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    Hi can anyone advised how to improve Subaru Impreza 5d 1.5r fuel consumption??

    Eg Change lighter rims , crank pulley, ATF cooler

     

     
  42. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nightkido View Post
    Hi can anyone advised how to improve Subaru Impreza 5d 1.5r fuel consumption??

    Eg Change lighter rims , crank pulley, ATF cooler
    Be gentle to the gas pedal.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nightkido View Post
    Hi can anyone advised how to improve Subaru Impreza 5d 1.5r fuel consumption??

    Eg Change lighter rims , crank pulley, ATF cooler
    If fuel consumption matters to you, you shouldnt have bought subaru impreza. Motorbike and Car FC cant be changed much. The engine is designed as it is for.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nightkido View Post
    Hi can anyone advised how to improve Subaru Impreza 5d 1.5r fuel consumption??

    Eg Change lighter rims , crank pulley, ATF cooler
    send it for a tune & then train ur right foot
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