User Tag List

Page 3 of 8 FirstFirst 1234567 ... LastLast
Results 101 to 150 of 357

Thread: <Info> Silverwing 400cc / 600cc Tech Corner

  1. #101
    scoobydoo
    ^_^
    TeePee scoobydoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Jurong
    Posts
    4,951
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default V-Matic Indicator - below speedometer, orange color light with a V-sign



    V-Matic Indicator

    As an odometer based reminder ... MOST of the time is due to this
    The the V-matic indicator is a "trip based" indicator "programmed" to light up at 24k km intervals clocked by the odometer, i.e. expect to see it come on at 24k km, 48k km, 72k km, etc.
    Why every 24k km? Probably becos the manual recommends change belt at 24k km.

    No need to be alarmed or jump to any conclusions as it is only a reminder, something like an alarm set to ring at 7am every morning. Simply reset the indicator (procedures also stated in manual) and continue on your maintenance program will suffice. Some riders change their belt at 20k km (3-in-1 set) while some stretch it till >40k km. Risky? Depends on respective riding patterns.

    As a "out of the norm" sensor
    http://www.silverwing600.com/t889-v-matic-service-light
    The service light comes on every 16,000 miles which is the factory recommended replacement interval for the drive belt. The light also comes on if the onboard computer senses a difference between speed and RPM which is outside the programmed parameters. For instance, if your belt wears prematurely, or stretches, or if your rollers wear, it will take more RPM to go a given speed. If those RPMs are outside the programmed range, the light will come on.

    How to reset V-matic indicator?
    Resetting the indicator is as simple as ABC...
    (a) Off the ignition
    (b) Press and hold down the 2 black rubber buttons (mode & reset) on the meter
    (c) Turn the ignition on while still holding the 2 buttons down (about 5~8 seconds) and wait for the V-matic indicator to blink, then let go of the buttons and "V-light" will go off.
    ... whala... done!

    Last edited by scoobydoo; 30-08-2016 at 09:08 AM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  2. #102
    Elton
    u can kiss my aaaasssss
    SBF Scooters Elton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    South
    Posts
    2,512
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Yo Scoodydoo,
    Mind sharing abit on running in new swings? lol
    Like 1000km not exceeding how many Km/h or RPM. lol

     

     
  3. #103
    SW9000
    Have Gun Will Travel
    TeePee SW9000's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Rivendell, Middle Earth
    Posts
    4,779
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    23 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Elton View Post
    Yo Scoodydoo,
    Mind sharing abit on running in new swings? lol
    Like 1000km not exceeding how many Km/h or RPM. lol
    Everyone does it differently.
    The general rule is not to exceed rpm 5k for 1st 500km. That means no sudden acceleration and to vary the speed when travelling (use more engine brakes). After 500km, can gradual increase cruising speed. Should be able to try max top speed after 2500km.

    Mine Kiasu type:
    100km - Engine Oil/Gear Oil (mineral) & oil filter **Ehh... some say it is the most important change (me say too). Actually, my 1st SW I changed at 30km... hehehe.
    500km - EO/GO & oil filter
    1000km - EO/GO & oil filter
    2000km - EO/GO (full synthetic), oil filter, iridium spark plugs & throttle bodies synchronisation.

    Others may follow the interval stated in the service card by BS.
    Last edited by SW9000; 30-12-2011 at 10:59 AM.

  4. #104
    Elton
    u can kiss my aaaasssss
    SBF Scooters Elton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    South
    Posts
    2,512
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Thks for the info! Lol

  5. #105
    scoobydoo
    ^_^
    TeePee scoobydoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Jurong
    Posts
    4,951
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default Running In

    This article I extract, copy-n-paste from a previous post of another forumer

    What is Running In?

    The main objective of running in (also called break-in) an engine, is to get the engine to the point where all the rubbing surfaces are nicely mated to each otheras little unnecessary wear to the engine as possible at all temperatures likely to be attained, while causing in the process.

    Wiki...
    The goal of modern engine break-ins is the settling of piston rings into an engine's cylinder wall. A cylinder wall is not perfectly smooth but has a deliberate slight roughness to help oil adhesion. As the engine is powered up, the piston rings between the pistons and cylinder wall will begin to seal against the wall's small ridges.
    Remember that metal expands with heat, thus a well perfectly mated piston/rings when cold in the cylinder may become too tight when the engine heats up. The benefits of doing a proper run-in are twofolds:
    * the engine would be a “better” engine throughout it's life, and
    * engine life would be extended.

    All new bikes need to be run-in, as are engines that are overhauled to near "factory state". It allows the parts in your engine to gradually become seasoned. If you don't run-in your engine properly, you can seriously shorten its lifespan. Over-revving an unseasoned engine or putting too much load and stress on the motor could result in jammed pistons, potential cause of injuries or something worse.

    And don't forget to use an appropriate engine oil and change it after running-in the engine.


    Wiki...
    The following are consequences of a bad engine break-in:
    1. Oil will be allowed to gather in the cylinder wall, and a vehicle will use much more of it than necessary.
    2. If a ring does not set into the grooves of the cylinder wall but creates friction against them each time an engine runs, the cylinder wall will be worn out.
    3. Unsuccessfully setting piston rings into a cylinder wall will result in the necessity of new engine parts, or the entire engine depending on how extensive the damage is.
    Method 1: Traditional Run-In (aka Soft Break-In)

    How Far / How Long?

    Depending on the motorbike manufacturer's recommendations, running-in periods are usually between 500km to 1000km. i.e. different bikes have different requirements. For overhauled engines, it depends on what parts are changed as well... better to check with the mechanic or workshop that completed the overhaul.

    Although the SW owners' manual says 500km, most of us do 1,000km...
    Help assure your scooter’s future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you ride during the first 300 miles (500 km).
    During this period, avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration.
    A conventional or normal run-in could take a rider as little as few days or as long as few months; it really depending on usage.
    If a rider decides to take a slow leisurely ride up to Hatyai and back, run-in could be completed within a trip

    How Fast or Engine Revs Limit?

    Although this is very much dependent on the make/model of your bike, a common run-in engine rev limit is usually set around <5,000 rpm. While some smaller bikes could travel around 60-70km/h, 5,000 rpm for a Silver Wing 400cc is around 90+km/h (stock transmission setup).
    Personally, I limited my speed to <80km/h when running in my SW400, something like <4,500rpm.

    Revving the unseasoned engine too high would not only wear out the engine excessively but also grossly increase the chances of the piston(s) to jam, although it is rather unlikely under normal circumstances.

    If your bike is new, chances are the tyres are also new... new tyres are slippery and also need "running in". Limiting riding speed and lighter cornering is a safe bet.

    What Engine Oil To Use?

    Most would recommended that mineral oils should be used for the run-in because the engine is not doing prolonged high revs and synthetic oils are too “good” and could slow down the desired seasoning of rubbing parts. Mineral oils are also more economical and has to be changed immediately when run-in is completed.

    Summary

    A commonly adopted recommendation:
    * 1st 500km: run on mineral oil (comes with bike), limit to <5,000rpm or <90km/h; check that eo level is sufficient
    * @ 500km: change engine oil (10w40 mineral oil) and oil filter; some riders prefers not to change filter even when it is not costly (a original honda filter costs <$20)
    * next 500km: run on mineral oil, limit to <5,000rpm or <90km/h
    * @ 1,000km: run in completed:
    note that some bikers practice extended run ins, 1,500km or 2,000km or 2,500km.
    ... change engine oil to preferred 10w40 weighted oil; brand, semi or fully synthetic engine oil is matter of personal preference but strongly recommend to use 10w40
    ... must change oil filter
    ... change transmission oil; owner's manual says to use 10w40 motor oil (another name for engine oil) so most of us use the same engine oil we use for the engine bay. note that some mechanics will recommend to use gear oil instead of engine oil, based on their many years of experience and some SW are indeed using gear oils. fact is, honda's service manual for Silver Wing clearly stated to use 10w40 engine oil, there must be a reason.

    Normally, the engine oil and transmission oil drained out at these stages are rather blackish due to the many metal "power" in the oil, the by-products of running in. That is why changing the filter is very important at the end of the run in; the filter is supposed to keep the eo clean instead of "contaminating" it.
    It is best to check with the manufacturer (owners’ manual) and your regular/proficient mechanic.


    Other than the traditional "Slow-n-Steady" run in method ("Soft" run-in), another popular but controversial method is the Hard run in (Hard break-in) method.


    Method 2: Hard Break-In?

    Hard running-in usually makes life easier, taking as little as less than an hour using a Dynojet machine. This is especially popular for busy bikers.

    Dyno run-ins basically do the run-in in a "lab" like environment. Instead of running the bike on the road, bike is strapped and ran on something like a track mill, following a predetermined procedure. Electronic and computerised gadgets/sensors are fitted onto various parts of the bike to monitor bike's performance such as torque, vibrations, FC, temperature, etc. Fans are usually used to help maintain desired bike temperatures.

    Advantage of hard run-in is that it is done by a mechanic under a controlled environment, without the rider having to keep an eye on the tachometer while riding in traffic... a very much safer option at a affordable price.

    read this: Run It Hard! ... author is someone who advocates hard run ins. the article wrote about the 3 types of run ins and also piston ring sealing. its up to us to form our own opinion how we want to run-in our beloved bikes.

    A variation to the typical Hard break-in involves running the bike through a predetermined procedure on the road instead of on the Dyno. While being fast, convenient and more economical than using a Dyno, both the bike and rider are exposed to much higher risks such as engine blow-out, piston jams, etc.


    Preferred Method?

    Most bikers would prefer to run in our bike the traditional way because it is easy, free and allows us to feel our bike better.


    Last edited by scoobydoo; 02-02-2011 at 02:19 AM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  6. #106
    Elton
    u can kiss my aaaasssss
    SBF Scooters Elton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    South
    Posts
    2,512
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Thks scooby! Lol

  7. #107
    scoobydoo
    ^_^
    TeePee scoobydoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Jurong
    Posts
    4,951
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default Engines & Overhaul

    since we've covered running in... a good topic to cover for info would be overhauling an petrol internal combustion engine. if we keep the ride long enough, some level of overhaul would be necessary to restore its performance, hopefully none of us needs prematurely

    What is an Engine Overhaul?

    A general term for major engine work that usually requires removing the engine from the vehicle/bike, and rebuilding or replacing internal components (e.g. pistons, piston rings, connecting rods, valves, etc.), usually in attempt to restore it near “factory” state. Note that changes of parts like timing belt, magnetic coil, etc. do not constitute an overhaul.

    2 general levels of Engine Overhaul:

    (1) Top Overhaul:
    … covers mainly the replacement of components at the “topside” of an engine, parts that are accessible after removing the engine’s top cover; usually do not involve removal of engine from the vehicle/bike.
    Common works done are to dismantle and change cylinder head assembly parts such as valves, rocker arm, piston head, piston rings, gasket, etc.

    For the Silver Wing, it could involve dismantling the throttle body, cylinder head cover/head set, etc. to service/replace components like the valves, camshafts, cam chain, etc.
    Much of the body kit (fairings) needs to be removed to allow access.

    (2) Full Overhaul:
    … covers the replacement of most if not all engine components and requires the entire engine to be removed from the vehicle/bike. Works include replacing connecting rods, crankshaft bearings, etc. in addition to the items in top overhaul.
    Understandably, a full overhaul service costs more than a top overhaul.

    For the Silver Wing, it could (in addition to those of top overhaul) involve dismantling the crank case, cylinder, to work on (or replace) components like crank shaft, bearings, piston, connecting rods, piston rings, etc.

    Generally, Overhaul Costs = Components Cost + Labour Cost

    Note: whether a bike's engine need a top or full overhaul depends on the extent of wear and/or damage to the engine's parts.

    Different bikes and different engine condition will cost differently. I overhauled my TZR125 (1 cylinder) for about $250 but my CBX400 Custom (4 cylinders, 16 valves) cost me >$1,000. The CBX engine is very heavy to remove, more complicated design, more expensive parts, more skill & time needed, etc... obviously more expensive lor

    Problems? Yes... if you don't run in the bike properly.
    My TZR's piston jammed while running above recommended revolutions before the proper run-in is completed. Skidded along AYE and was lucky not to get myself killed... was only about 1 feet from being run over by a car. End up going back to workshop and spend more $$$.
    ADVICE: do the run-in religiously for your own safety
    In addition to the main engine, other systems of the bike may be worked upon during an Overhaul, not just the engine. E.g. oil and water pump, cooling system, transmission system, swing arm, electrical harness/system, etc.

    Transmission System… Gears/Gearbox
    The Honda Silver Wing uses the Continuous Variable Transmission (CVT) system instead of the sequential manual system. The Silver Wing’s transmission gears are located at the rear behind and connected to the rear driven face and clutch assembly.

    Transmission system… Clutch Assembly (Variators for CVT)
    Motorcycle clutches are usually made up of a stack of alternating plain steel and friction plates. typically two clutch plates, one fixed to the engine's crankshaft, the other fixed to a basket that turns the transmission shaft, which turns the gears (gearbox) and finally front sprocket. the plates are forced together by a set of coil springs when the clutch is engaged.
    Clutch plates should be changed if the contact parts are worn out.

    The Honda Silver Wing’s CVT system comprised on a “drive face” (connected to the engine’s crankshaft) and a “driven face” (connected to the gears which in turn drives the rear wheel).
    Key components of the drive face/assembly include the inner/outer variator plates, rollers, sliders (aka u-clips), etc. Key components of the driven face include the belt, clutch assembly (clutch pads, clutch bell, clutch plate, contra sprint, lunar plate, etc.

    Cooling System
    Petrol engines may be air-cooled, by fins on the cylinders (e.g. TA200 phantom), or liquid-cooled by a water jacket and radiator (e.g. Silver Wing, Super 4, etc.). The coolant was formerly water but is now usually a mixture of water and ethylene glycol. This mixture has a lower freezing-point and a higher boiling-point than pure water. In addition, the cooling system is usually slightly pressurised to minimise evaporation of coolant.
    Other than the water-based engine radiator system, some bikes has an additional radiator for cooling the engine oil.
    Popular coolants include the Engine Ice, Redline’s Water Wetter, Maxima’s Coolaide, etc.

    Major engine components of Silver Wing's engine
    ~ excluding transmission system

    Key components/assemblies are:
    * engine block (aka body)
    * cylinder head assembly
    * camshaft assembly
    * cyclinder
    * crank/shaft assembly
    * throttle body
    * starter assembly
    * alternator/generator (magnetic coil) assembly
    * etc.
    * water, oil pump
    * etc.




    Petrol Internal Combustion Engine

    To understand an overhaul job better, knowing how the petrol internal combustion engine works would be helpful.

    The Silver Wing scooter is driven by a 400cc (or 600cc) parallel twin petrol engine, summarised as:
    * 2 cylinders
    * 4 valves to each cylinder (total 8 valves)
    * double over head cam design (DOHC)
    * 4 stroke
    * liquid cooled

    What does 2-stroke or 4 stroke engine means?

    A single sweep of the cylinder by the piston in an upward or downward motion is known as a stroke. i.e.
    2-stroke = bang, down, up, bang, down up, bang .. .. ..
    4-stroke = bang, down, up, down, up, bang, down, up, down, up, bang .... .... ....



    Key components of a typical 4-stroke engine:



    Typical 4-stroke DOHC engine in action:
    (1) Induction or Suction stroke... air and vaporised fuel are drawn into cylinder from carburettor.
    (2) Compression stroke... fuel vapor and air are compressed by the piston/cylinder and ready for ignition by "sparks" generated by spark plug.
    (3) Power stroke... combustion take place and piston is pushed downwards to push the crankshaft into a rotating motion.
    (4) Exhaust stroke... burnt waste is driven or squeeze out of the cylinder for fresh air and vaporised fuel to be drawn in.

    This is a good webby read... "How Stuff Works"
    http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine1.htm

    What is Double Overhead Camshaft (DOHC)?

    A DOHC train layout is characterized by two camshafts located within the cylinder head, one operating the intake valves and one operating the exhaust valves. Some engines have more than one bank of cylinder heads (V8 and flat-four being two well-known examples) and these have more than two camshafts in total, but they remain DOHC.


    DOHC designs are commonly used in modern cars and motorcycles. With multiple valves per cylinder (Silver Wing 4 valves per cyclinder), engineers place 2x intake valves on the opposite side from the 2x exhaust vales. The result is an engine that can "breath" better and faster, producing higher horsepowers with smaller engine capacity.
    Pros: High efficiency, possible to install multiple valves per cylinder and adopt variable timing.
    Cons: More complex and more expensive

    Single Overhead Cam (SOHC):


    What is Parallel Twin?

    The Silver Wing uses a parallel twin engine (2-cylinder engines are commonly known as twins) where both pistons move up and down together, parallel to each other but on opposite strokes.. i.e. when one is on the compression stroke, the other is exhausting; every revolution you have a power stroke from alternating cylinders.
    Because the pistons move together, balancers are required to counter the weight shifts within the engine. Otherwise, the pistons will be "kicking" the engine up and down, causing lots of vibrations.
    See the "stripped down" view of the Silver Wing's parallel twin engine (engine parts) above.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LoCk4ai46lw

    The parallel twin as in most common British and Japanese motorcycles until the 90s when engines with 4 cylinders became commonly seen on production market. These engines typically have the cylinders side by side and vertically above the crankcase, with the exhaust ports pointing forward to maximise airflow cooling.

    - - -

    There are many variations to crankshaft configurations, e.g.:

    * Inline (aka straight) ... cylinders arranged in a straight row and usually across the fore-arf line for better cooling and space considerations; e.g. honda CB400 aka Super 4's inline 4 engine


    * Inline twin ... cylinders arranged in a straight row but crankshaft configuration uses a 180° offset between the pistons, i.e. one piston moves up while the other moves down for a inline twin.

    * Parallel twin ... similar to inline engines; both cylinders are arranged parallel to each other and its crankshaft configuration uses a 360° offset, i.e. both pistons move up and down together and parallel to each other. because the pistons move together, balancers are required/used to counter the weight shifts within the engine. otherwise, we can expect quite a bit of vibrations.
    Today, the Parallel Twin engine isn't as popular as it once was, but it produces torque like a single, is light in weight and produce almost double the RPM and have good horsepower and top speed as well. ... ...
    Thanks to having two pistons and with the use of counter balancers to counter the effect of piston forces parallel twin engines are much more smooth than Singles.
    * V ... offsets the pistons 90° from each other.


    * Flat (aka Boxer) ... pistons arranged on opposite sides; one of its popular subtype is the "boxer" setup


    * Tandem Twin... cylinders are longitudinal and have two cranks geared together.

    Parallel vs. Inline

    Mechanical balance & vibrations:
    • In Inline configuration (180° offset), pistons moves in “opposite” directions, countering each other’s weight shifts thus causing less vibrations than the Parallel.
    • In addition to less vibrations (don’t need counter balancers), Inline twins suffer fewer pumping losses and displacement in the crankcase stays roughly constant.
    • Mechanical balance of a 4-stroke Parallel twin engine is similar to that of a similar displacement 4-stroke single-cylinder engine. This is because both pistons move up and down the parallel cylinders together.
    • To reduce vibrations caused by the Parallel twin’s “rocking couple”, counter balancers are required for bigger displacement bikes.

    Firing & Ignition:
    • A key advantage of Parallel twin setups is that firing is regular, with one cylinder firing each revolution of the crankshaft rather than every second revolution of the 4-stroke.
    • In Inline twin setups, the firing is uneven; the left cylinder fires, then 180° later the right cylinder fires, then the engine rotates 540° (360°+180°) before the left cylinder again fires.
    • An Inline twin engine requires a separate ignition system for each cylinder while a Parallel twin usually have a single ignition system for both cylinders.
    • A Parallel twin simpler/single ignition experiences a “wasted” spark on each cylinder's exhaust stroke. Since spark plugs are fired in pairs, the spark inside the cylinder which is compressed for the purpose of “squeezing” out the exhaust is deemed “wasted” as it generates no power.
    • In some sense, the wasted spark is not really wasted since the "double firing" helps to reduce exhaust gas emissions by burning whatever remaining fuel left over from the previous combustion stroke before it has a chance to exit the engine through the tail pipe.




    Acknowledgment:
    This article is a compilation of info from many sources including Wikipedia.org, samarins.com, auto.howstuffswork.com, etc.
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 05-12-2011 at 02:44 PM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  8. #108
    Elton
    u can kiss my aaaasssss
    SBF Scooters Elton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    South
    Posts
    2,512
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Hi fusionjaz, do you mind sharing with everyone how you feel after changing the rear shocks to hagon.

  9. #109
    scoobydoo
    ^_^
    TeePee scoobydoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Jurong
    Posts
    4,951
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default Emergency Tyre Repair/Plugging

    heard of the worm kit?
    here's it and how to use it

    A Comprehensive Tyre Repair Kit


    1a … Spiral Hole Cleaning Tool (Recommended)
    1b … Spiral Hole Cleaning Tool
    2a … Eyelet Repair Strip Insertion Tool (Recommended)
    2b … Eyelet Repair Strip Insertion Tool
    3 … Repair Strips (“Worm”)
    4 … Tube Repair Strip Glue
    5 … Repair Strip Trimming Knife
    6 … Compressed Air Canisters
    7 … Inflation Adaptor (for Canisters)
    Note:
    Insertion tool (2a) in illustration is the ½ insertion type (push tool) which is most commonly used. Notice that the "eye" at front tip has an opening pointing forward; tool will push the worm in but leave the worm in its place when tool is pulled outwards.
    another common design for ½ insertion tool head is

    Safety First:
    Before anything should be attempted, the first thing to do is to find a safe place to stop over.


    Although a petrol station would be ideal (other than a tyre shop or workshop), there may be times where one needs to pull-over to the road shoulders of an expressway or some busy road. If so required to work in the “wilderness”,

    • DO NOT stop near blind spots (e.g. behind turns, bends or corners blocked by some signages) where you and your bike could be “invisible” to oncoming motorists until its too late;
    • DO NOT stop and work at areas where lighting is poor at night;
    • DO switch on the bike’s hazard lights (if equipped);
    • DO display the hazard triangle reflector at an appropriate location/distance to forewarn oncoming motorists;
    • DO keep an eye on oncoming traffic in case oncoming motorists pass too close or make misjudgment;
    • DO work with caution while mending the tyre.



    Step 1 = Find the Leak

    Finding the leak could be straight forward if the culprit (e.g. nail) is still on the tyre. But if you don't see any screw, nail or piece of something sticking on the tyre, it may be tough finding out where the air is escaping. The most common method to find the leak is to apply “soapy” solution over the suspect area and look for the bubble.
    Problem is, how many of us carry soap solution as a SOP item? Most riders saliva as a readily available substitute when nothing else is available.

    Step 2 = Remove the Culprit

    Before removing the culprit (e.g. nail, screw, splint, etc.) from the tyre, it is strongly recommended to leave a marking on the tyre to indicate the leak or point to be plugged; a marker or tape would be useful. If really nothing better, grab a stone and leave some appropriate “scratch” marks to help.

    Step 3 = Prepare the “Hole”

    There a round file looking took in the tire repair kit (see items 1a & 1b). The type with a T-handle (item 1a) is recommended as it allows its user to exert more force when inserting and pulling it out of the tyre, as compare to one with a screwdriver design (item 1b).

    Push this tool in and out of the hole firmly and perpendicularly to the tyres surface for a few times (about 5~6 cycles). This is to clean out and roughen up the hole in the tire prior to plugging.

    Step 4 = Prepare the Worm (Repair Strip)

    Peel a strip of the “tar-worm” repair strip (item 3) out from the pack and thread it through the plugging tool (items 2a & 2b). Typically, a plugging tool has an eye at its front tip, like a giant needle but with an “outlet gap” (position depends on full or half insertion design) for the worm to leave the tool during extraction.

    Insert the worm into the tool’s eye, positioning the eye to around the middle of the worm’s length. Although the worms are already sticky, most kits come with a tube of glue (item 4). Apply some glue sparingly on the worm, concentrating on parts that are entering the hole. The glue is used to reinforce the seal and also helps make sure the worm stays in place.

    Step 5 = Insert the Repair Strip or Worm

    With the worm threaded onto the plugging tool, push the front end of the tool slowly/firmly and perpendicularly into the prepared hole to be plugged. Do not jam the worm in. This action usually requires quite a bit of effort if the seal is to be tight. If the insertion is easy or effortless, the hole may be too big for the worm and plug will not be effective to hold the air.

    Depending on the design of the plugging (worm insertion) tool, there are 2 variations:

    • Half insertion tool design (most common): push tool with opening at eye pointing forward
    Push the plugging tool and attached worm in until only about 1.5~2cm of the worm is left sticking outside. Then pull the plugging tool perpendicularly out leaving the worm firmly plugged in the hole.
    The whole worm will be left inside the tyre if you push it in all the way

    e.g.

    • Full insertion tool design: pull tool with opening at eye at around centre
    Push the plugging tool and attached worm fully into the hole. Then pull the tool slowly and perpendicularly outwards, pulling about 1.5~2cm of the worm out of the tyre. Remove/unhook the plugging tool from the worm which is firmly plugged in the hole.

    Step 6 = Remove Excess Strips

    Trip the excess section of the worm outside the tyre using a cutter (item 5). Although it is ok to trim it close to the tire, it is common to leave about 1~2mm excess. If there’s really nothing to trim the excess, leave it there and trim it later.
    Wait for about 10~15 minutes before inflating the tyre to allow the glue settle in.

    Step 7 = Inflate & Check Sealing

    If at a petrol station with air pressure pump unit, use it to inflate the tyre sufficiently to enable safe riding to the nearest tyre repair/replacement shop. If along roadside, use the compressed air canisters (items 6 & 7) or foot pump to inflate the tyre accordingly. Although some may disagree, many would recommended to go easy on the tyre pressure when on plugs.

    Repeat the “bubble check” at the plugged spot to see if the seal is properly done. If not, repeat the sealing process from step 3 onwards.

    Step 8 = Properly Mend/Patch or Replace the Tyre

    Worm kit repair jobs are only temporary or emergency measures. Affected tyres are not recommended for prolonged use and should be properly mended/patched at tyre repair shops or replaced altogether.

    - - - - - -

    Never attempt to plug a sidewall! Your tire's sidewall is under different strains and pressures than the part that makes contact with the road. Plugging a sidewall can result in a blowout, so don't try it.
    http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixit.../tire_plug.htm

    Videos:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdyLRdTRN3M
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8L_V6...eature=related
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zaa5y...eature=related

    There are many similar products that does the same function of plugging the leak.
    E.g. Stop & Go Tyre Plugger.
    http://www.stopngo.com/motorcycle-sc...repair-kits-1/
    E.g. Genuine Innovations Tire Repair & Inflation Kit
    http://image.motorcyclistonline.com/...repair02_z.jpg




    Modern tyre repair:
    E.g. Slime Moto Spair http://www.slime.com/shop/moto-spair-50001/


    E.g. Holts Tyreweld series of products… seals punctured & reinflate tyre in seconds.
    http://www.holtsauto.com/products/gr...ing/motorcycle
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 08-03-2013 at 01:43 PM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  10. #110
    twistofthewrist
    has no status.
    P Plate
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    74
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default SILVERWING 400 'Mode' Button

    Hi Guys,

    I just got my resale 2007 Silverwing 400, I believe it's a JDM model.

    Can someone please advice how the 'MODE' button (above the left brake pumpkit) works?

    I tried switching it on while riding but there wasn't any difference in rpm or speed...

    Thanks in advance!

  11. #111
    Elton
    u can kiss my aaaasssss
    SBF Scooters Elton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    South
    Posts
    2,512
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    If i'm not wrong, the "T-mode" button is only useful for overtaking or going up a slope.
    Its not a "turbo" button or a "N2 Boost button.
    It will just slightly adjust your ECU to input a little more fuel and a little more air to give you a little more burst, not significant.
    It works while you are throttling not on stand still mode.

     

     
  12. #112
    twistofthewrist
    has no status.
    P Plate
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    74
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Oh I see, thanks for the info Bro, appreciate it!

  13. #113
    Elton
    u can kiss my aaaasssss
    SBF Scooters Elton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    South
    Posts
    2,512
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    No worries, i'm not an expert but there are alot of experts in this forum. Join is for outings whenever there is one. We are all very friendly people. Would love to see more scooter riders get united

  14. #114
    twistofthewrist
    has no status.
    P Plate
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    74
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Hi Elton,

    Yes, I'll certainly like to join you guys on your outings, I'm sure it'll be fun.

    By the way, which bike are you riding?

    Cheers,
    Danny

  15. #115
    Elton
    u can kiss my aaaasssss
    SBF Scooters Elton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    South
    Posts
    2,512
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I'm currently still on my Atlantic, switching to SWT soon.

  16. #116
    twistofthewrist
    has no status.
    P Plate
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    74
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Cool Bro! The very best to your new bike!!

  17. #117
    peterlim34
    has no status.
    P Plate peterlim34's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    133
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Hi all,i a newbie in scoot & had book a SW-T400(Black) from ASP.Will be collecting bike end month.I have heard that the front & back shocks are soft...Should it be change to after market ones? But the bike is brand new? What other things i should look for @ day 1 when collect bike? I had read some tips from 'tech corner',is the top-box Kappa K46 sufficient? I have to top-up if i need to have a bigger one,if so what size? 49,52,54? The top-box is a free gift.....Please advise...thanks.

  18. #118
    Fazli
    has no status.
    SBF CB400s Fazli's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Senja Road
    Posts
    3,089
    Feedback Score
    1 (100%)
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    In my opinion, the K46 is enough. You have ample storage under your seat. This is one of the reason why I wanna convert to SW once I can break even my Super Four. Looking forward to the day I own a 400cc with relatively low maintenance and upkeep cost.

    Been reading up a lot on SW lately to find out more bout this bike.
    "Don't do onto others, what you don't want others to do onto you"
    "What goes around, comes around"

  19. #119
    OldSkoolRider
    is happily riding his JDM SWing.
    L Plate
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    27
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    In respect of this thread being a Tech Corner, I have removed my comment.
    My sincere apologies, got carried away.
    Last edited by OldSkoolRider; 26-10-2010 at 12:38 AM.

  20. #120
    scoobydoo
    ^_^
    TeePee scoobydoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Jurong
    Posts
    4,951
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default How to change spark plugs?

    Changing spark plugs on a Silver Wing scooter

    Tools Required
    • Philips head and flat head screwdrivers
    • Plug tool (or spark plug wrench with 16mm or 5/8” Hex)
    • Ratchet or spanner or T-spanner
    • Extender (plug tool provided by Honda together with bike is not long enough)


    Notes before starting:

    • Strongly recommended to use reputable brands such as Denso or NGK in view of reliability issues. There were cases where sparkplugs broke into two, leaving one half still in the engine.
    • Some bikers use a "plug gapping/feeler gauge" (see below pic) to check the plug gap and make sure it is correct. However, most bikers and mechanics will simply bypass this step and install the plug straight away. This is because the factory gap settings of modern plugs are suitable for most bikes in general.

    • Most spark plugs comes with a terminal nut over the threads of the plug’s upper electrode. Remember to remove them before installing the sparkplugs.
    • Make sure that the oil, water, dirt, etc. (e.g. rain, sand, etc.) do not enter the engine interior from the plug access.
    • Use the correct wrench for the hex on the plug, and be careful not to damage the insulator.
    • Make sure the sparkplugs are clean, especially at the screw threads before installation.
    • Do not over tighten the sparkplugs. Although the manual states some recommended torque (e.g. 16 ft/lbs), most of us don’t have such precision tools but use our own hands; lots of feel and judgement required… see below.
    • Over tightening may break the sparkplug or even damage the threads the sparkplugs and/or the engine.

    Tightening by Hand (without using a Torque Wrench)

    Whenever possible it is recommended that the spark plug should be installed by using a torque wrench. However, since most riders do not possess a torque wrench, the “Locking Turn” method is commonly used (also described in owners manual):

    New Sparkplugs:
    Tighten the plugs TWICE to prevent loosening… 1st tightening compresses the new “tapered” washers, 2nd tightening locks the sparkplug firmly in place.
    • Screw in the sparkplug (together with the new washers) till it is firmly seated; do not screw the plugs in by force or the screw threads may be damaged (commonly known as cross-threading).
    • 1st tightening:
    . . . o Denso: make an additional 1 turn
    . . . o NGK: make an additional 1/2 turn
    • Loosen the sparkplug and retighten the sparkplug again.
    • 2nd tightening/locking:
    . . . o Denso & NGK... make an additional 1/8 turn
    • Do not over tighten the sparkplug.
    • Note: Some mechanics do not practice this 2 step tightening.


    Used Sparkplugs:
    Sparkplugs may be re-used if they are still in good condition after inspection. Many bikers keep used good conditioned sparkplugs as spares.
    • Screw in the sparkplug (together with the flattened washers) till it is firmly seated.
    • Make an additional 1/8 turn to lock the sparkplug firmly in place.

    Steps

















    Reverse the process... job done


    Spark Plug Gap

    If the plug gap is wide, the flame core is larger and the quenching effect is smaller, so reliable ignition can be expected. But if the gap is too wide, a large discharge voltage becomes necessary. If the limits of the coil performance are exceeded, and discharge becomes impossible.



    The recommended spark plug gap is not stated in my old owner’s manual but a webby recommended this…
    Gap 0.80 - 0.90 mm (0.031 - 0.035")
    Specifications of Denso Iridium Power IUH24 indicated that they are gapped at 0.9mm… this means the plugs are “good to go” unless you want to modify them.
    http://www.globaldenso.com/en/produc...ower/spec.html

    The incorrect plug gap for your engine can contribute to a high rate of misfires, loss of power, plug fouling, poor fuel economy, and accelerated plug wear. It is always best to check the gap against the manufacturer's specifications.

    Another consideration that should be taken into account is the extent of any modifications that you may have made to the engine. As an example, when you raise compression or add forced induction (e.g. turbo, nitrous or supercharger kit), you must reduce the gap (about 0.101mm or 0.004” for every 50hp you add). However, when you add a high power ignition system (e.g. MSD, Crane, Nology systems) you can open the gap from 0.051mm~0.127mm or 0.002”~0.005”.

    Generally, the bigger the spark plug gap, the more voltage you require to have the spark arc across the gap. The same applies when the combustion chamber pressure is increased. The spark plug gap also has a bearing on engine performance. The bigger the spark plug gap, the more air/fuel mixture will come into contact with the spark and the easier it will be to ignite the air/fuel mixture. However, it's not simply a matter of increasing the spark plug gap and the output voltage from the coil. Firstly, there is a limit to the amount of voltage the ignition system can handle and, secondly, there is an optimal spark plug gap that will best performance for your engine and your driving style.

    How to Gap a Spark Plug?

    1. For used plugs, remove the spark plugs from the engines and clean the electrodes with a lint free cloth as necessary.
    For new plugs, remove the plastic protectors covering the electrodes.
    2. Check the owner's manual for the recommended gap setting.
    3. Use a gap tool to check the gap of the spark plug by slipping the appropriate part of the tool between the ground electrode and center electrode.
    The gap tool should fit snugly at the recommended gap width indicated on the tool.
    4. Push the tool carefully between the electrodes a few times to confirm the accurate gauging. Be careful not to damage the electrodes.
    5. If the gap is too wide, press the ground electrode firmly against a flat surface (e.g. wall) to bend it inwards, closing the gap between the ground and centre electrodes.
    If gap is too narrow, use a suitable plier to bend it outwards gently and by a little at a time. Do not exert too much force or the ground electrode may become damaged.
    6. Check the gap again and repeat steps 3 ~ 5 until the desired again is attained.
    7. Install the spark plug to the engine and reattach the spark plug wires.

    acknowledgements:
    photos are courtesy of Jeff at http://silverwing.org/cgi-bin/topic_show.pl?tid=1364
    NGK & Denso websites
    http://www.jacksscootershop.com/main...da_FSC600.html
    http://www.custom-car.us/ignition/spark-plug/gap.aspx
    many other websites
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 02-11-2010 at 10:35 AM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  21. #121
    scoobydoo
    ^_^
    TeePee scoobydoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Jurong
    Posts
    4,951
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default Genuine, Parallel Imported & Fake Spark Plugs

    Genuine, Parallel Imported & Fake Spark Plugs

    There are many make and models of spark plugs on sale in the market. Some commonly known ones are Denso, NGK, Bosch, Champion, OWS, Splitfire, Hodaka, Pulstar, ACDelco, etc.
    However, we shall discuss only Denso and NGK, the 2 makes recommended by Honda.

    Local Distributor


    The authorised Denso spark plugs dealer (for motorcycles) in Singapore is Premo International Pte Ltd, located at 39B Jalan Pemimpin #04-00 Prime Industrial Building Singapore 577184. The company is open to non-corporate sales (i.e. Tom, D1ck or Harry) provided the order meets a minimal quantity, e.g. 10 boxes (4 plugs in each box). Can do MO
    http://www.denso.com.sg/tpl/dealer_singapore.html
    When specifically asked, a Premo's sales staff feedback that they did not supply to LAB, i.e. Ah Boy imported his stocks of Denso plugs himself.


    Searching the webbies for a local NGK distributor was futile and there are no NGK Regional Office in Singapore (according to NGK's website); the nearest ones are in Malaysia (HQ in Penang, Branch in KL) and Indonesia (Jarkarta).
    http://www.ngkntk.co.jp/english/company/world.html
    http://www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/english/global/index.html
    Maybe there is no local distributor appointed for sales of NGK spark plugs in Singapore. Maybe someone is importing the plugs in bulk before reselling them to the local shops.
    Update: According to a fellow SWinger, NGK has a distributor in Singapore... Boon Siew, was told the plugs are imported from Thailand.

    Parallel Imports or Fakes?

    It is said that parallel imports and fake Denso or NGK spark plugs are being sold in Singapore and around the world. Spark plugs not sold through official/local agents cannot be guaranteed of their quality.
    Hmmm... how about genuine but parallel imports?

    Now that it is confirmed that LAB’s stocks for Denso spark plugs are not from local distributor, question is whether his competitively priced spark plugs are parallel imports or fakes.
    A parallel import is a non-counterfeit product imported from another country without the permission of the intellectual property owner. Parallel imports are often referred to as grey product, and are implicated in issues of international trade, and intellectual property.
    Parallel imports can still be genuine stuffs, only that they are brought into local market bypassing the local distributor.
    Technically speaking... Fakes are Fakes. Parallel Imports are NOT Fakes.
    We can’t say that Honda Silver Wing sold by parallel importers are fakes, right?

    IMO, as long as the spark plugs are parallel imports and not fakes, I am comfortable to save the bucks.
    Tricky issue now is, how to know whether the spark plugs are fakes?


    How to identify fakes Denso/NGK plugs?

    Both Denso and NGK have publish articles describing the differences between genuine and fake plugs. The method described is by close inspection of the physical finishing of the plugs. Unfortunately for us, the quality gaps may have narrowed significantly beyond the capacity of naked eyes with modern technology and “copy” techniques.



    http://www.globaldenso.com/en/produc...005/09_2a.html



    http://www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/english...ake/index.html


    The next time you buy Denso or NGK plugs from any budget accessories/parts store, take a closer look... hopefully the plugs are at least parallel imports and not fakes


    acknowledgements:
    Denso & NGK local & international webbies, Wikipedia, etc.
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 11-11-2010 at 11:17 PM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

     

     
  22. #122
    bigcow
    has no scooter, but still travel
    SBF Scooters bigcow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    7,443
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    there is NGK distributor in singapore
    TEAM RedBull Singapore

    Daniel aka bigcow +65 9105-0569

    ScooTourers: Have Scooter, Will Travel...

  23. #123
    scoobydoo
    ^_^
    TeePee scoobydoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Jurong
    Posts
    4,951
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default LED Lights for Silver Wing

    What LED bulbs are usable on a Silver Wing?

    This list is compiled from contributions of SWingers who have changed their stock bulbs to LEDs (without modifying the connection type).
    If you have new/further/correction inputs, kindly post in the discussion section so that we may update this list... thank you.

    Please refer to your respective manuals on how to change the bulbs; FJS/JDM and SWT models vary slightly.

    2x Pilot Lights
    ... 194/168 type T10 wedge base LED bulbs; commonly referred to as T10
    ... available in many colors (e.g. white/yellowish, amber, blue, red, green, etc); stock is white/yellowish (LTA friendly)

    1x License Plate Light
    ... 194/168 type T10 wedge base LED bulbs; commonly referred to as T10
    ... from the manaul, looks like T10 LED may be used but require the "wide angle" instead of "mono" directional types
    ... anyone can confirm?
    ... although some riders use colored bulbs (e.g. white/yellowish, amber, blue, red, green, etc), any color other than non-white/yellowish is not LTA friendly

    1x Under Seat Compartment Light
    ... 3022 type Festoon (31mm x 10mm) LED bulbs
    ... do not get the 3710 type (37mm x 10mm) as they are too long to fit the stock socket/housing

    2x Brake Lights
    ... 7443 type T20 16mm wedge base, 2-contact, 2-intensity LED bulbs
    ... since SW's clear plastic lens is already red, using a white bulb could desirable since similar spec white LEDs are generally brighter than red ones
    ... do not buy 7440 T20 as they are 1-intensity LED bulbs generally used for for signals, reverse, other lightings, etc.

    LEDs for Signal Lights
    LEDs draw significantly less power than incandescent bulbs. Thus, the standard flasher unit in our bike will activate the LEDs faster than the normal rate (as if blown bulb situation).
    2 ways to overcome this:
    … use LED bulbs with built-in resistors (neatest but such bulbs are more costly and may be hard to find)
    … add an electronic flasher unit (preferred) or resistor kit to existing circuitry
    see ttp://www.superbrightleds.com/pdfs/load_resistor_info.pdf

    2x Front Signal Lights
    for FJS Euro: 1156 type BAU15S (Euro) single contact candelabra bayonet base, amber
    ... bayonet pins are off set at 150 degrees instead of the normal 180 degrees
    ... amber bulbs are required as FJS's clear plastic lens are "plain" colored
    ... JDM (Japs) may use white bulbs if clear plastic lens are amber in color
    for SWT: 7440 type T20 16mm wedge base, 1-intensity LED bulbs, amber
    ... bayonet pins are off set at 150 degrees instead of the normal 180 degrees
    ... amber bulbs are required as FJS's clear plastic lens are "plain" colored
    ... GT (Japs) may use white bulbs if clear plastic lens are amber in color

    2x Rear Signal Lights
    for both FJS & SWT: 1156 type BAU15S (Euro) single contact candelabra bayonet base, amber
    ... bayonet pins are off set at 150 degrees instead of the normal 180 degrees
    ... amber bulbs are required as clear plastic lens are "plain" colored

    2x Head Lights (Low/High Beam)
    The SW's headlights (both low and high beams) are powered by H7 halogen bulbs. Although high power H7 LED bulbs are already available, their relative brightness and "throw" are still lacking when compared to moder high powered halogen based bulbs and Halogen Infrared Reflecting (HIR) bulbs that may be used on the stock socket. As such, it may not be advisable to use H7 LED bulbs, at least for the time being.



    List of many other types of bulb base:
    http://autolumination.com/bulb_reference.html


    What is LED?

    A light-emitting diode (LED) is a semiconductor light source, commonly used as indicator lamps in many electrical/electronic devices in the past but are increasingly used in place of conventional incandescent lightings.
    LED bulbs/strips are becoming more and more popular in automotive lamps as they consumes significantly less power, lasts longer, vibration friendly and much smaller (thus more versatile) when compared to the old-school incandescent bulbs.

    Why LED?

    One of the few setbacks of using LEDs could be the high switch-over cost, especially for high powered LED bulbs; e.g. a normal incandescent bulb may cost just few dollars while a compatible high powered LED bulb could cost >$30. Nevertheless, many automotive owners still find the investment worthwhile, especially for rear brake lights to enhance safety. LED bulbs light up much faster than incandescent bulbs (by up to 0.5 seconds) and thus help shorten the delay for "signal" to be sent to road users behind; a 0.5 seconds delay on a 90km/h highway could mean a headway difference of up to 25 metres.

    However, it does not mean we should change all bulbs on the bike to LED, at least for now. We have to consider the pros and cons of applying LEDs at the respective lightings on the bike.
    E.g. the headlights are currently using H7 halogen bulbs. While H7 LED replacement bulbs are available, their brilliance are still lacking when compared to high performance halogen bulbs and high intensity discharge (HID) lighting systems. Also, the use of load resistor kits or LED bulbs with built in resistors may "cancel" out the purpose of lowering power consumption, other than possibly having a brighter bulb.

    contribution from TitanicLexus
    Quote Originally Posted by TitanicLexus
    ... actually i do some research online for the LED bulb and realized that the different between the wedge base for 1156 type BAU15S and 7440/7443 type T20.

    *Wedge base for 1156 type BAU15S for FJS/SWT both using bayonet pins are off set at 150 degrees instead of the normal 180 degrees.

    *Wedge base for 7443/7440 type T20 for FJS/SWT both using 16mm wedge base, 2-contact, 2-intensity LED bulbs. If for Brake light both FJS/SWT must use 7443 T20, 2-contact and 2-intensity LED bulb. If for signal only for SWT, can use 7440 T20 1-intensity amber colour.

    Meaning for SWT: 7440 type T20 16mm wedge base, 1-intensity LED bulbs, amber
    ... bayonet pins are off set at 150 degrees instead of the normal 180 degrees <-- not applicable cos wedge base is 16mm, not 150 degree type for 1156?
    Ride safe

    acknowledgements:
    fellow SWingers
    wikipedia
    http://www.limbat.com.sg/
    www.autotoys.com
    http://www.superbrightleds.com
    http://store.ijdmtoy.com/
    many other webbies
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 04-01-2011 at 10:32 AM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  24. #124
    kmkoon
    has no status.
    Class 2A kmkoon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Woodlands
    Posts
    671
    Feedback Score
    1 (100%)
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Hi..
    If today I Pump esso 95.. few days later i pump shell 98.. then shell v-power.. then malaysia shell 97.. Will it cause any damage to the engine??
    will the FC become higher??

  25. #125
    kmkoon
    has no status.
    Class 2A kmkoon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Woodlands
    Posts
    671
    Feedback Score
    1 (100%)
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Hi..
    If today I Pump esso 95.. few days later i pump shell 98.. then shell v-power.. then malaysia shell 97.. Will it cause any damage to the engine??
    will the FC become higher??

  26. #126
    spin37
    has no status.
    Class 2 spin37's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    NorthEast / Hougang
    Posts
    1,357
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kmkoon View Post
    Hi..
    If today I Pump esso 95.. few days later i pump shell 98.. then shell v-power.. then malaysia shell 97.. Will it cause any damage to the engine??
    will the FC become higher??
    No la, no problem one. As long as its petrol. If got problem, then wat abt those who always go touring in the north ? Almost different petrol station at every stop. Then in Thailand, those pump gasohol ? Ethanol plus petrol, worst ? According to the manual, SW use ron92 can already. But 92 gives very sluggish output..95 is good enough, 98 is better, vpower is best..lol

    2 roads diverged into a wood, and I-I took the road less traveled and that makes all the difference!


  27. #127
    spin37
    has no status.
    Class 2 spin37's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    NorthEast / Hougang
    Posts
    1,357
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kmkoon View Post
    Hi..
    If today I Pump esso 95.. few days later i pump shell 98.. then shell v-power.. then malaysia shell 97.. Will it cause any damage to the engine??
    will the FC become higher??
    No la, no problem one. As long as its petrol. If got problem, then wat abt those who always go touring in the north ? Almost different petrol station at every stop. Then in Thailand, those pump gasohol ? Ethanol plus petrol, worst ? According to the manual, SW use ron92 can already. But 92 gives very sluggish output..95 is good enough, 98 is better, vpower is best..lol

    2 roads diverged into a wood, and I-I took the road less traveled and that makes all the difference!


  28. #128
    scoobydoo
    ^_^
    TeePee scoobydoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Jurong
    Posts
    4,951
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    hehe... i happen to be a Caltex man in the past and have asked the techkies a similar question then.

    Among the various petrol from Caltex, Esso, Mobil, BP, Shell, etc. which is better?
    His reply was...
    All about the same despite the many differences claimed by the petrol companies. Not that they are lying, just that small things made big

    BTW, I pumped BP petrol despite working in Caltex not because BP’s petrol are better but out of convenience; petrol of the same octane level have minimal differences.
    One thing I'm more concerned about is the petrol's cleanliness. Dunno how true but it is said that impurities in the tank gets stirred up by the petrol gushing into the tank. Thus, better to refuel after the impurities settle down. I always avoid pumping petrol soon after the big fuel truck load up the station's underground tank.

    will dig up an old post and paste it here later tonight
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 16-11-2010 at 12:59 PM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  29. #129
    scoobydoo
    ^_^
    TeePee scoobydoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Jurong
    Posts
    4,951
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default Petrol... Caltex, ExxonMobil, Shell, SPC, etc.

    According to SgCarMart.com's directory, there are >200 stations in Singapore supplying petrol from Shell (64), ExxonMobil (68), SPC (39) and Caltex (34).

    Any "Real" Differences Between Their Petrol?

    If we don't consider the deeper aspects, differences between the various petrol offerings to end users like you and me could be summaried as:

    · Octane levels
    · Additives
    · Colouring
    · Tons of marketing

    Although much is said about F1 cars using the same fuel as those available (RON98) at our neighborhood stations, that is one saying many find hard to believe.
    Exotic high-density fuel blends for F1 are tuned for maximum performance in given weather conditions or different circuits. General consumer petrol are blend for economy with some performance

    (A) Octane Levels/Ratings

    When used in high compression internal combustion engines, petrol has a tendency to auto-ignite, resulting in "engine knocking" which is damaging to the engines.

    Octane rating is a measure of the resistance of petrol to engine knocking. While some vehicles require a high octane fuel, some can run on lower octane fuel safely. Always use the minimum octane rating recommended by manufacturers.
    Octane rating does not relate to the energy content of the fuel (see heating value). It is only a measure of the fuel's tendency to burn in a controlled manner, rather than exploding in an uncontrolled manner.

    What does RON92 or RON98 means?

    RON is the abbreviation for Research Octane Number. It is determined by running the petrol in a test engine with a variable compression ratio under controlled conditions, and comparing the results with those for mixtures of iso-octane and n-heptane.
    E.g. Petrol with the same knocking characteristics as a mixture of 98% iso-octane and 2% heptane would be rated as RON98.

    It is also possible for a fuel to have a RON of >100, because iso-octane is not the most knock-resistant substance available. Racing fuels, avgas, LPG, and alcohol fuels such as methanol or ethanol may have octane ratings of >110; e.g. ethanol's RON is 129.

    How does Octane levels affect petrol performance?

    Higher octane ratings correlate to higher activation energies. i.e. less likely that a given compression will cause uncontrolled auto-ignition, something undesirable in all sense in a spark ignition engine. Imagine what would happen when timing of combustions in each cylinder of the engine go haywire? Simply haywire!

    Higher RON petrol can be run at a higher compression ratio without causing auto or uncontrolled detonation. Generally, higher compression generates higher power and thermodynamic efficiency. High-performance engines are designed to operate with a high maximum compression, and thus demand high-octane premium petrol.

    Higher RON mean more Power? Not necessary!

    A common misconception is that power output or fuel mileage can be improved by burning higher octane fuel in all engines. Or at least what lots of marketing is saying, without the fine prints of course.

    Fact is, power output of an engine depends in part on the energy density of its fuel; that’s why fuel density is so important in F1 cars. But petrol with different RON may have similar density. Since switching to a higher octane petrol does not add any more hydrocarbon content or oxygen, the engine is unlikely to produce more power.

    Nevertheless, using petrol with RON lower than required by the engine often reduces power output and efficiency one way or another, mainly due the knocking and auto-ignition.

    Verdict? Use petrol with suitable RON.


    (B) Additives

    Over the history of petrol as automotive fuel, many different types of additives were used to improve its performance and efficiency. Well known ones include lead (discontinued due to safety reasons), ethanol, cleaning agents, lubricants, etc.

    Lead (Leaded Petrol)... discontinued

    As discussed above, auto-ignition and "engine knocking" is a problem in petrol internal combustion engines. The use of lead additives (e.g. tetra-ethyl lead) reduced petrol’s tendency to auto-ignite under compression thus paving the way for more powerful higher compression engines. This led to its widespread adoption in the 1920s. Another advantage of using lead additives was its ability to protect valve seats from erosion.

    The use of lead additives started to drop in the 1980s due to safety/environmental concerns and their incompatibility with catalytic converters modern automobiles. Their use have been phased out in the 90s and are illegal in some countries.

    Ethanol

    In some countries, ethanol is added by law to a minimum level (e.g. 5.9%). While most petrol stations display a sticker stating that the fuel may contain up to 10% ethanol, some countries do not require such disclosures.

    Cleaning Agents

    Cleaning agents are probably the most popular and widely marketed additives in petrol. Some advantages of using such detergents are:
    · reduced internal engine carbon build ups
    · improved combustion thus fuel efficiency and better acceleration/power
    · reduced or cleaner emissions
    · smoother idling
    · easier starting in cold climates

    The highest levels of detergent can be found in Top Tier Detergent Gasolines; the specification developed by 4 automakers.
    In 2004 BMW, General Motors, Honda, and Toyota established a proprietary standard for a class of petrol called Top Tier Detergent Gasoline with increased levels of detergents. Volkswagen and Audi joined the consortium in 2007. Petrol brands can participate and get Top Tier listing if they meet the prescribed standards.

    Lubricating Agents

    Another popular additive could be the use of “lubricants” in petrol.
    E.g. Shell’s Friction Modifier Technology (FMT) in V-Power is basically additives used to “reduce friction between the cylinder and piston rings, a critical area of the engine where lubrication is difficult to achieve”. Objective is to help the pistons move more smoothly, engine turn more freely, reduce energy loss due to friction, reduce wear and tear in the cylinders.
    E.g. ExxonMobil’s Synergy 8000 includes a “fully synthetic friction reduction additive package, which can keep fuel injectors and intake valves of an engine clean, allowing the engine to perform at its optimum and provide measureable improvement in fuel economy. In addition, it provides corrosion protection to the vehicle’s fuel system”.

    (C) Dyes

    Have you ever wonder why the petrol from different brands look different in colour?
    They are different in colour not because of grade or quality, but plainly because of dyes.
    E.g. the red petrol from Esso is basically the same as the greenish petrol from Shell, differing only in octane level, additives and dyes.

    In the past, dyes were used mainly to differentiate the type of petrol; e.g. blue for aviation petrol, red for automotive use, etc. In recent years, colours have been used also for marketing effects.


    Petrol & Petroleum

    Petrol (called gasoline in North America) is a petroleum-derived liquid mixture used as mainly as fuel in internal combustion engines found in cars, motorcycles, generators, etc. When we talk about petrol, we cannot escape from knowing its origin, petroleum or crude oil of which it is refined from.

    Petroleum or crude oil is a naturally occurring, toxic, flammable liquid consisting of a complex mixture of hydrocarbons of various molecular weights and other liquid organic compounds. Small quantities of various additives are common, for purposes such as tuning engine performance or reducing harmful exhaust emissions. Some mixtures also contain significant quantities of ethanol as a partial alternative fuel.

    Quality and Classification of Petroleum

    The proportion of light hydrocarbons in the petroleum mixture is highly variable between different oil fields and ranges from as much as 97% by weight in the lighter oils to as little as 50% in the heavier oils and bitumens.

    The petroleum industry generally classifies crude oil by the geographic location it is produced in (e.g. West Texas Intermediate, Brent, or Oman), its API gravity (an oil industry measure of density), and by its sulfur content. Crude oil may be considered light if it has low density or heavy if it has high density; and it may be referred to as sweet if it contains relatively little sulfur or sour if it contains substantial amounts of sulfur.

    Light crude oil is more desirable than heavy oil since it produces a higher yield of petrol, while sweet oil commands a higher price than sour oil because it has fewer environmental problems and requires less refining to meet sulfur standards imposed on fuels in consuming countries. All in a nutshell, we can say:

    _ _ Most desirable quality = Sweet + Light
    _ _ Least desired quality = Sour + Heavy


    acknowledgements:
    friends, wikipedia
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  30. #130
    scoobydoo
    ^_^
    TeePee scoobydoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Jurong
    Posts
    4,951
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default Honda Ignition Security System aka H.I.S.S.

    HISS = Honda Ignition Security System

    About HISS

    First introduced in 1996 for cars, this is Honda's unique, electronically controlled security system. A chip in the original ignition key recognizes signals from the Engine Control Unit (ECU) and sends a special ID verification signal. If the signals do not match, the engine will not start. In 2001, HISS was made available for Honda motorcycles.

    Totally disabling the engine at the very heart of its ignition system, the system cannot be bypassed by either hot-wiring the ignition or exchanging the ignition switch module, thus effectively deterring joyriders and greatly reducing the possibility of ride-away theft.

    HISS for Silver Wing

    HISS works in tandem with the Honda's security coded keys; without the synchronised codes (commonly referred to as programming) between the key and the bike's ECU, its engine could not be started.

    There is no need to worry if you do not see the red HISS light blinking, HISS is automatically active whenever the ignition is turned off.

    The rider is able to manually activate the blinker by following the procedures in page 48 (see attached).
    However, the indicator function will be cancelled when the ignition is turned on again. i.e. rider will have to manually activate it if he/she wants the blinker to be on every time he/she parks the ride

    Other posts about HISS:
    Additional HISS keys for SW
    Attached Images Attached Images
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  31. #131
    peterlim34
    has no status.
    P Plate peterlim34's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    133
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Any guru had changed their exhaust system(LTA friendly),full system or only end can? Any improvement? need to do dyno-tune?
    Thanks.

     

     
  32. #132
    scoobydoo
    ^_^
    TeePee scoobydoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Jurong
    Posts
    4,951
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default Fuel Guage Calibration & Consumption

    According to specifications:
    * Fuel Tank Capacity = 16 Litres
    * Reserve = approx 3.5 Litres


    Generally, fuel efficiency (determined by average fuel consumption) of each Silver Wing differs, even if the scoots are of the same class and model/version. This is mainly due to differences in riding pattern, riding style, riding conditions, etc. Other factors that could affect FC are air-screw settings, grade/weight of engine oil used, petrol RON levels, exhaust systems, airflow or air filter type (e.g. stock or K&N), rollers & variator setups (e.g. stock or aftermarkets from Malossi, Polini, J-Costa, Dr Pulley, etc.), use of performance enhancing products (e.g. FP60, PA2, PA ignite, Raizin VS, Revtech, etc.), etc. and even tyre pressure plays a part.

    Information compiled here are for general reference only.

    Fuel Gauge Calibrations

    Reserve indicators for FJS/JDM and SWT/GT are different as their meter panels are different; FJS/JDM use digital black LCD display (blinker) while SWT/GT use a mechanical pointer (red zone)… see pic below.



    According to feedback from JDM SW 400cc riders, their FC is higher than those recorded by FJS 400cc units even when the T-mode (aka booster) were not used. Although the hardware are almost identical, it is said that the ECU setting is the main cause of the disparity.

    "Tank level" markings on the SW's gauges do not drop in a linear manner as the amount of fuel remaining in the tank decreases, especially from full tank to 1st marking.
    E.g. some SW arrive at their first bar after travelling about 90+km from full tank. Assuming FC is 24+km/L, this means approx 3.7L has been used. But that doesn’t mean each bar represents 3.7L as subsequent bars represents approx. 1.4L each till reserve.
    As each SW's FC is somewhat different, calibrations are expected to differ slightly.

    Quote Originally Posted by scoobydoo View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by skidrow View Post
    My fuel gauge starts to blink at the last bar when I am at 240km. From what I understand, another 50km more I should be pushing bike soon yes?

    I went up to 330km, and it will still going strong. I decided to pump petrol when I hit that number though. It filled to 15.3 litres (added: 21+km/L).

    Should I check the float in the fuel tank? Or just take 300km as my bench mark to look for a petrol station?
    its normal... that's becoz the SW's reserve is 4 litres out of a capacity of 16 litres. a very big reserve we have for sinkapor roads where gas stations are readily available

    when to refuel is a matter of personal preference. at least now you know you have to start looking for a gas station when trip meter crosses 330km.
    i don't refuel when the blinker appears but follow the trip meter; usually refuel after 350km (my FC about 24+km/l)... especially when using Rm gasoline
    Quote Originally Posted by SW9000 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by scoobydoo View Post
    as a quick reference, my FC about 25+km/l when...
    . 1st bar gone about 90+km
    .. indicator at "half" tank about 190+km
    ... reserve blinker appears about 300~305km

    if this bar goes off after 230+km, you're on good course for near 25km/l coz my last few bars clocks about 34km before hitting reserve
    Same same as mine:
    1st bar goes off = 95km
    2nd = 125km
    3rd = 155km
    4th (half way) = 195km
    5th = 225km
    6th = 255km
    7th (blink blink) = 295km

    But I normally can only pump 11.8L when blink so = 25km/L.
    Quote Originally Posted by SW9000 View Post
    Lets see. A gentle rider like me (90-100km/h) gets:

    1st Bar - 95km
    2nd Bar - 125km
    3rd Bar - 155km
    4th Bar - 195km
    5th Bar - 225km
    6th bar - 255km
    7th Bar - 295km

    Last 2 pumps:
    19 May 2010 - 367km @14.6L = 25.24km/L
    24 May 2010 - 370km @14.6L = 25.34km/L

    Maximum Range

    Some of us have tried the maximum "tank range" (intentionally and unintentionally) and best results so far is around 400km + a few loose km. After which the bike will "go on strike" with an empty tank.
    SW with higher FC would register a shorter maximum range

    Measuring Fuel Efficiency

    For more accuracy, average FC of a bike needs to be monitored over a longer period instead of basing on data collected over just 2 or 3 refills. Also, we should remove those abnormal conditions that deviates from our daily riding, a good example would be touring, where FC could either be higher due to higher rpms/speeds (e.g. 21+km/L at 130+km/h on NSHW to Thailand), or lower if still travelling at normal daily speeds but without the "start-stops" of city riding (e.g. ~26km/L leisurely at <6k rpm or ~110km/h to Melaka).

    Collecting FC Data:
    1) Refuel to full tank (level should always be the same for accuraccy).
    2) Reset trip meter to zero and start riding.
    3) At next refuel (to same full level), note down the km travelled and litres of fuel topped up; you have 1 data set.
    4) Reset the trip meter and start riding again.
    5) Repeat steps 3 & 4 for as many cycles (data sets) desired.
    6) Compute FC as follows:

    FC (km per litres) = Total Distance Travelled / Total Fuel Consumed

    A common communication error:
    Higher FC means less efficient, i.e. less km travelled per litre.
    Some riders got it mixed up by saying FC increased when they km/l increased; FC improved or FC decreased would be more appropriate.


    by lokeks
    How to calculate Fuel Comsumption (FC)


    dont bother when it start to blink.
    Mine now blink at 160km, use to be 200km.

    Go by a test method you can follow.
    You can start anytime.

    1) Put bike on main stand.
    2) Insert fuel nozzle all the way. (Any fuel grade will do)
    3) Press the fuel pump to pump (use the middle level so the flow of fuel is slower) until the nozzle automatically stop by itself. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REFUEL.
    4) Set your A TRIP to "0km" before moving off.
    5) Ride as per normal.
    6) Make sure you hit about 200km before your next refuel.
    (The longer the distance, the lesser is the error)
    7) Put bike on main stand.
    8) Before refuelling, take note of A TRIP. eg. "180.2km"
    9) Insert fuel nozzle all the way.
    10) Press the fuel pump to pump (use the middle level so the flow of fuel is slower) until the nozzle automatically stop by itself. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REFUEL.
    11) Take note of pump volume. eg. 8.65L

    Distance travelled/Fuel volume = Fuel Comsumption.

    In this case, eg. 180.2/8.65 = 20.8 km/L or 21km/L

    Do this method for at lest 3 times. This is to minimise errors again in the test methodolgy.

    (FC1+FC2+FC3)/3= Ave FC
    Common FC of SW 400cc

    FJS 400cc : from around 21~25km/L
    JDM 400cc : from around 17~22km/L
    SWT 400cc : similar to FJS (limited info)

    Quote Originally Posted by @h_LoNg View Post
    My fuel consumption always been less than 23km/L (260km+/- blink reserve) since the bike was 2000km old.

    Today I just spent $400/- to pamper the bike including:

    1. Maxima Extra E.O
    2. Air Filter (Original)
    3. Throttle body Syn + O Rings
    4. Steering cone bearings
    5. Fork oil (Maxima Fork Oil) + oil seal + addition of fork guard
    6. Transmission Oil (Maxima 80w gear oil)
    7. Brake Calipers cleaning + Brake Fluid Flush)

    Well, I hope my f/c will improve, if not it is really my riding style that is the main root cause of the problem
    Quote Originally Posted by chaochao View Post
    I rode my SW till empty - yes - literally empty tank! My purpose is to test how far can a SW go on 16L of petrol and how far can its reserve tank stretch. Here's my result:

    Road Cond: 50-50 City/E'way in Singapore only.
    Load capacity: 60% with pillon
    Riding style: take off from 3500RPM. E'way @ 90-100kph.
    Avg speed: 70-80kph
    Fuel Consumption: 22.6km/L

    Distance covered with 16L (incl reserve) - 363KM
    Distance covered with reserve - 89KM

    (SW9000/Scoobydoo... do u wanna add this info to the SW tech thread?)
    Quote Originally Posted by SW9000 View Post
    For 400cc, FC about 23-25km/L
    For 600cc, FC about 19-21km/L

    SW only got 16L tank and reserves starts at 12L.
    Since yours only 19km/L, then:
    Reserve at 228km with a balance mileage of 76km. *Total = 304km.
    Top up once it hit reserve to play safe. For info, we normally rest at every 150km++ during tours.

    For touring, best to maintain around rpm 6.5k, which is about 120km/h.
    But note that SW can generally cruise at 140km/h also. Depends on rider.
    Quote Originally Posted by patriots View Post
    My best FC is 23km/l (Max), approx 280km for 12litres, on last blinking fuel bar before refuelling..

    The FC you have indicated is as good as my previous X9 180cc, which gives me 30km/l with revtec installations.

    I guess you might got your calculation wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by CCK View Post
    It might not be the case. Just use the distances travelled/the amt of litres pump in = km/l.

    Mine is average of 22 - 24km/l. But I always move off slowly and pick up more later.
    Quote Originally Posted by mufc69 View Post
    no, sw 400. according to previous owner is 22km per litre. i might see wrongly the mileage. just pump up full tank will check how far it travel.
    Quote Originally Posted by DRK View Post
    new SW-T400 wont blink blink when the fuel indicator drop to last level wor.... only red red area...
    Quote Originally Posted by kmkoon View Post
    yah.. totally agree with you
    when you reach the red area you still got another 3 to 4 litres....
    which me average speed 100km/h = 24km/l
    3l = 3 X 24 = 72km etimated..
    Common FC of JDM SW 600cc

    FJS 600cc : unknown cos no posts available
    JDM 600cc : from around 17~21km/L

    Quote Originally Posted by bigcow View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by paithorn View Post
    I was researching some difference btn SW400 and 600 and realised their FC defers quite a lot?
    its actually damn a lot
    Quote Originally Posted by Andydy View Post
    my sw consumption is v bad. Everytime pump is ard 13-14Litres, about 250km on the odo (added:17~19+km/L). Normally when fuel hits reserve, i go looking for my usual SPC.
    For my bike, mileage for 98 octane is better than 95. Maybe drag alot when using 95.
    Haha, I dun like to push bike when tank's empty, so I din try to push it to the max like u.. haha.. 15.7L, another 300ml to empty sial.. Damn exciting loh.
    Quote Originally Posted by Paithorn View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Andydy View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Paithorn View Post
    I am riding a SW600. Actually am selling it too.... condition almost new

    FC 20-21km/litre on mineral engine oil
    wow, ur consumption is good.
    Mine is only around 19km/l, on fully syn oil.
    but most of the time 100km/h-130km/h..
    what's ur normal riding speed to attain 20-21km/h?
    Normally I ride between 90-110Km/hr...... at times 130Km/Hr....
    Maybe my car is also CVT so I am more used to handling this kind of transmission... I never exceed 3500rpm for initial pickup.....
    this is one example of FC for FJS ... lightweight rider + low wrist-power

    Last edited by scoobydoo; 26-02-2016 at 04:01 PM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  33. #133
    big4rider
    has no status.
    P Plate
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    120
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default "Your rear tire does not need balancing"

    Have you encounter this statement when you try to change your tires? Most shops do not have proper equipment to do rear tire balancing on silverwings and then they will tell you that it is not needed. "Just need to align the red dot with the valve stem and the balance is almost there already."

    I've just changed my rear tire @ sporting motor and got them balanced. After aligning the red dot with the valve stem, a total of 60g of weights were still required.

    Therefore, don't take their words granted when they say no balancing is needed.

    "It is essential tire/wheel assemblies be balanced before use and rebalanced each time the tire is removed or replaced. Unbalanced tire/wheel assemblies can vibrate at certain speeds, and tire wear will be greatly accelerated." (http://www.dunlopmotorcycle.com/info...tips.asp?id=16)

    Anyway, please share any other places with rear balancing if you find them, thx!

  34. #134
    scoobydoo
    ^_^
    TeePee scoobydoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Jurong
    Posts
    4,951
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    updated some... added unique motorsports
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 26-01-2011 at 12:28 PM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  35. #135
    stevebucknor1
    has no status.
    L Plate
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    6
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Silverwing only uses two(2) spark plugs(not to worries about the changing of plugs cause the changing of plugs only occur after 20,000km of usage).Engine change is only 2 liters for non oil filter change and 2.2 liters for oil filter change.Normally i change my engine oil after every 2500km interval.







    How to build muscle

  36. #136
    scoobydoo
    ^_^
    TeePee scoobydoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Jurong
    Posts
    4,951
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    updated... see later post
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 07-04-2011 at 10:11 AM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  37. #137
    scoobydoo
    ^_^
    TeePee scoobydoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Jurong
    Posts
    4,951
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default Garmin Waterproof GPS & RAM Mounting Solutions for SW

    For riders who would like own a waterproof GPS unit, here's some suggestions:

    (a) Nuvi 550/500 around US$260 from Amazon.com (before shipping), S$499 from JK Commercial in Sg (Nuvi 500)
    (b) Zumo 220 around S$800 (online shop) ... physically identical to Nuvi 500/550.

    Difference between Nuvi 550 & Nuvi 500?
    The only difference between the two new models is the preloaded maps - the nuvi 500 comes loaded with detailed street and topographic mapping for the lower 48 U.S. states, Hawaii and Puerto Rico, while the nuvi 550 comes with comprehensive street maps for the U.S. and Canada.

    (c) Zumo 350 around S$1000 (online shop), new models for bikes



    (d) Zumo 550 around US$605 from Amazon.com (before shipping)


    (e) Zumo 660 around US$650 from Amazon.com (before shipping), S$990 from JK Commercial, S$870 at Sim Lim
    Nuvi 660 comes in a complete set with RAM mount solutions.
    What's Included In The Box?

    The Garmin Zumo 660 ships with the following items included:
    * Garmin Zumo 660 (View this item)
    * Preloaded City Navigator® NT for North America (full coverage)
    * Garmin City Navigator North America NT DVD 2010 (View this item)
    * Garmin Zumo 220 550 660 665 Motorcycle Handle Base Assembly (View this item)
    * Garmin Zumo 660 and 665 Motorcycle Cradle with Integrated Power Cable (View this item)
    * Garmin Zumo 220 550 660 665 Motorcycle Handle Base Assembly (View this item)
    * Garmin Zumo 660 and 665 Carry Case (View this item)
    * Garmin Nuvi 5xx and Zumo 220 66x Lithium-Ion Battery (View this item)
    * Garmin Zumo 660 and 665 Vehicle Suction Mount (View this item)
    * Garmin Straight 18 Pin Cigarette Lighter Adapter (View this item)
    * Garmin USB PC Cable (View this item)
    * Garmin Single Large Adhesive Plate for Suction Cups (View this item)
    * Quick Start Manual
    More about Zumo 550 & 660:
    http://www.webbikeworld.com/garmin-g...mo-660-review/
    http://www.webbikeworld.com/garmin-g...s-zumo-550.htm
    http://www.prades.net/zumo660/index.html

    Why only Garmin?
    We would like to have more options but unfortunately, only Garmin units come with weather/water proof capabilities, at least for the time being.

    More information on GPS Personal Navigation Devices available in Singapore are available at
    http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.com/p/gps-pnd.html



    For the new owners who would like to install RAM Mounting kit on their beloved SW, here's some suggestions:

    Cradle for Garmin Nuvi Units
    for additional security, a RAM cradle for the GPS unit is highly recommended.
    these cradles hold the GPS unit firmly in place and prevent the unit from falling out from the holder due to vibration or when the bike hits a hump or pothole.
    Nuvi 550 (waterproof model) http://www.ram-mount.com/CatalogResu...5/Default.aspx


    Nuvi 1250 http://www.ram-mount.com/CatalogResu...5/Default.aspx

    Nuvi 1350 http://www.ram-mount.com/CatalogResu...5/Default.aspx

    Nuvi 1460 http://www.ram-mount.com/CatalogResu...5/Default.aspx

    a) Mount Ball in front of speedo, replacing one of the screws of handlebar top cover

    Product Number: RAM-B-367U



    Can also use the below type balls but needs a spacer (or an used roller) to fit the “depression” at the handlebar cover:



    And if you're also into some fabrication works, can consider using both the screws that holds the centre handlebar cover. There's a "strong" point (not as strong as chassis parts or those holding the other tupperwares though) just below the cover which we can use.
    See pic below... this mod is only for FJS/JDM models.



    Required materials:
    * RAM diamond adaptor base
    The screws came together with the pack when i bought it.
    * 2x stainless steel long screws
    Length is around 2", make sure the thread fits.
    * 2x rubber washers
    To go between the rollers and the tupperware to prevent damage on cover. DO NOT over tighten the screws.
    * 2x spacers
    Just go your scooter workshop and ask mech for some worn rollers, they have lots to throw away. SW rollers are too big, both in overall size (diameter) and centre hole. Size of centre hole should be just about nice for the screws to pass through, to help immobilise the assembly when mounted.

    * Black spray paint
    For cosmetic reasons; better to use the heat resistant ones cos out bike are exposed to sun baking.

    b) Mount Ball on top of brake reservoir cover (usually left side)

    Product Number: RAM-B-345U (ball in centre)



    Product Number: RAM-B-346U (ball at side)



    c) Mount Ball/Balls next to throttle assembly (usually left side)




    Product Number: RAM-B-309-1U


    Product Number: RAM-B-309-2U
    Product Number: RAM-B-309-6U (permanent balls)




    Where to buy?

    (1) Buy online, directly from RAM Mounting Systems, Inc.
    http://www.ram-mount.com/

    (2) Buy online, via Amazon.com & other resellers
    http://www.amazon.com/
    http://www.gpscity.com/rammounts
    http://prubuy.com/index.php?k=RAM+mount&c=all

    (3) RAM Reseller in Singapore... JK Commercials (look for “JK”)
    http://www.jkcommercial.com.sg/
    Prices will be higher than if you buy direct from US but hey! you pay for the convenience.
    JK sets his prices with a markup over the "buy from US prices", so suggest do some homework before going down.

    (4) Freelance sellers, nick is RidesAddon … see her MO thread
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums...mp-etc…..***

    (5) Mix-n-match purchases... "buy local" alternative
    ... buy the RAM cradle or whatever that RidesAddon doesn't have
    ... buy the rest from RidesAddon

    Note: if buy online, can consider the below shipping options:
    • Directly from US seller to your designated Singapore address
    • US seller to ship to VPost USA, the ship via VPost to your designated Singapore address… may be cheaper
    Amazon sometimes has free local (US) shipping offers; i.e. can have items shipped to your VPOSTUSA address, then ship back to Sg via VPOST (pay S$ for shipping).
    https://www.vpost.com.sg/vpost/index1.jsp

    Last edited by scoobydoo; 30-10-2014 at 11:44 AM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  38. #138
    etkach3
    All Motorcycle Lighting Solution in ONE Place @ Affordable Price!
    SBF Lacer
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    KALLANG YISHUN BEDOK JALAN BESAR
    Posts
    2,056
    Feedback Score
    7 (100%)
    Mentioned
    17 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Elton View Post
    Matching box with backrest and 12 lit storage





    Nice



    hi guys any idea where to get this box with back rest?

  39. #139
    CCT
    has no status.
    L Plate CCT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    35
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default Silverwing 400 vs burgman 400

    hi all, i m new here. been thinking of getting a maxi scooter choice between Suzu Burgman and Honda Silverwing, 400cc. also understand that silverwing comes with or without abs, dif in price is abt 1k, is the abs wirth the $1k? hmm... need somebody advise, before signing on dotted line... thanks

  40. #140
    CCT
    has no status.
    L Plate CCT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    35
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    found these 2 nice write ups on silverwing and burgman:
    http://www.mcnews.com.au/Testing/Hon...ing_Review.htm
    http://www.onewheeldrive.net/2006/10...uzuki-burgman/
    looking for local review, anybody happened to know?

    thanks.

  41. #141
    scoobydoo
    ^_^
    TeePee scoobydoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Jurong
    Posts
    4,951
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    unless you're considering the burgman 650, the burgman 400 is not really in the same class of the SW... new OTR pricing is one thing, difference in resale value of the two bikes (of same age) tells a lot about their respective quality and desirability.

    but of course it depends on the type of performance you're looking for. if you want something more zippy, lightweight and easy to handle, burgman may suit you. but if you're looking for silky smooth engine, stability and touring... the SW outperforms the burgman 400 anytime.

    0.0002 yen worth of my personal opinion
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

     

     
  42. #142
    Fazli
    has no status.
    SBF CB400s Fazli's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Senja Road
    Posts
    3,089
    Feedback Score
    1 (100%)
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    And if you read thru the SWing thread, you hardly will find an owner that has chronic problems with their SWing. I'm crossing over to SWing from my CB400 next year.
    "Don't do onto others, what you don't want others to do onto you"
    "What goes around, comes around"

  43. #143
    CCT
    has no status.
    L Plate CCT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    35
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    thanks man... can advise if there is much dif between the one with and without abs? btw, i m currently on gsr400 without abs, hvn't got any experience with abs..

  44. #144
    kmkoon
    has no status.
    Class 2A kmkoon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Woodlands
    Posts
    671
    Feedback Score
    1 (100%)
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Don't try abs on swing.. Not worth it unless u ride very fast and u like to brake fast then u take abs.. Swing is a relax bike to ride.
    Abs is 1k more than non abs but when anything happen wif the abs, u need more
    than 1k to repair.. BecoZ once the abs spoil, it will lock your wheel and
    u can't do anything unless the mech unlock for u, and it's not
    easy to unlock.. but if nothing happen then it's ok la...
    It's up to you to decide.. I'm just sharing some info hope this help
    2007 - 2008 Honda Phatom 200
    2008 - 2010 SYM GTS 200
    2010 - ???? Honda Silverwing SW-T400

  45. #145
    CCT
    has no status.
    L Plate CCT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    35
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    thanks guys... looked set to get SW..
    hv been scouting a few shops actually, price ranging from $17k-$17.5k for non abs.. any advise on what is a good catch in term of pricing and standard package?

    will join u all in SW cafe when i get it.. hope to go for some long distance ride after running in...
    cheers.

  46. #146
    kmkoon
    has no status.
    Class 2A kmkoon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Woodlands
    Posts
    671
    Feedback Score
    1 (100%)
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CCT View Post
    thanks guys... looked set to get SW..
    hv been scouting a few shops actually, price ranging from $17k-$17.5k for non abs.. any advise on what is a good catch in term of pricing and standard package?

    will join u all in SW cafe when i get it.. hope to go for some long distance ride after running in...
    cheers.
    really ah the price now 17-17.5k???
    i tot now the SW out of stock?? which shop u went??
    2007 - 2008 Honda Phatom 200
    2008 - 2010 SYM GTS 200
    2010 - ???? Honda Silverwing SW-T400

  47. #147
    Elton
    u can kiss my aaaasssss
    SBF Scooters Elton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    South
    Posts
    2,512
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    17.5 otr? wow its really ex now.
    I think asp got new container come in liao but its better to check with them

  48. #148
    scoobydoo
    ^_^
    TeePee scoobydoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Jurong
    Posts
    4,951
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CCT View Post
    thanks guys... looked set to get SW..
    hv been scouting a few shops actually, price ranging from $17k-$17.5k for non abs.. any advise on what is a good catch in term of pricing and standard package?

    will join u all in SW cafe when i get it.. hope to go for some long distance ride after running in...
    cheers.
    SW pricing all around there, unless kenna chopped or buy from Boon Siew (agent). some popular shops to buy new SW are Looi's, ASP, M1, Mah. can also Bike Production (if not taking loan) cos their prices sometimes very competitive even after the "no loan topup"

    dun have to ride a SW to join our gatherings... we have Silver Wings (of course), Gold Wing, BMW, Vespa, Forza, FZ6, Adiva, etc. in the group, soon may get to see the new downtown 300i. come in BMW BMX also can

    long distance riding? we're touring to Ko Samui this april... interested?
    check this our http://thehouseofdaviz.blogspot.com/
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  49. #149
    CCT
    has no status.
    L Plate CCT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    35
    Feedback Score
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    hi Scooby and guys, thanks. i managed to get my SW thru Sin Boon Motor at Northlink. He told me there is new shipment, and Boon Siew has ready stock for white. i am getting white from him expected to arrived by this week.

    any advise on running in and oil change?

    abt the Ko Samui trip, i think now this time- i may ended up being a burden to your convoy... :-)
    anyway, thanks for the invitation, will start with somewhere nearer, if there is...

  50. #150
    kmkoon
    has no status.
    Class 2A kmkoon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Woodlands
    Posts
    671
    Feedback Score
    1 (100%)
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CCT View Post
    hi Scooby and guys, thanks. i managed to get my SW thru Sin Boon Motor at Northlink. He told me there is new shipment, and Boon Siew has ready stock for white. i am getting white from him expected to arrived by this week.

    any advise on running in and oil change?

    abt the Ko Samui trip, i think now this time- i may ended up being a burden to your convoy... :-)
    anyway, thanks for the invitation, will start with somewhere nearer, if there is...
    how much they quote you??
    2007 - 2008 Honda Phatom 200
    2008 - 2010 SYM GTS 200
    2010 - ???? Honda Silverwing SW-T400

Page 3 of 8 FirstFirst 1234567 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •