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Thread: <Info> Silverwing 400cc / 600cc Tech Corner

  1. #1
    scoobydoo
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    Silverwing 400cc/600cc Tech/Info Corner

    SW Thread archives...

    SBF Silverwings Cafe 2008 - JDM/Euro 400/600

    SBF Silverwings Cafe 2009 / 2010 - JDM/Euro 400/600

    (Closed) Silverwing 400cc/600cc Tech Corner



    Index @ post #3 below


    Other useful Honda Silver Wing forums:

    http://silverwing600.forumotion.com/

    http://www.silverwing600.com/
    http://www.silverwing600.com/f7-main...tips-and-hints
    http://www.silverwing600.com/f21-pictorials-maintenance

    http://silverwing.org/

    http://www.silverwingclub.it/
    Last edited by Brembo; 29-05-2013 at 06:21 PM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  2. #2
    scoobydoo
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    Talking Index

    Silverwing 400cc/600cc Tech/Info Corner

    SW Thread archives...

    <Archive> Silverwing 400cc / 600cc Tech Corner

    SBF Silverwings Cafe 2008 - JDM/Euro 400/600

    SBF Silverwings Cafe 2009 / 2010 - JDM/Euro 400/600

    Index
    ... reorganising the layout in progress

    General SW Info

    * Recommended Workshops, Contacts & Lobangs
    * The Honda Silver Wing Scooter (Part 1)
    * The Honda Silver Wing Scooter (Part 2)
    * Silver Wing meets Euro III Standard?
    * SW Owners Manual
    * SW Maintenance Schedule & FAQ
    * Touring on Honda Silver Wing?
    * Silver Wings SW-T400 vs. GT 400
    * JDMs are PI
    * Authorized Bike Dealers
    * Sums Of Buying A New Bike
    * Buying An Used (Aka 2nd Hand) Silver Wing?
    * New SW owner? Some pointers...
    * Additional HISS keys for SW
    * Amount of Reserve Fuel
    * Fuel Guage Calibration & Consumption
    * RPM, GPS Speeds & Speedo Speeds
    * Safety Feature Before Engine Can Start
    * Running In

    Maintenance: Electrical

    * Electricals
    * FJS400 Electrical Wiring Diagram
    * Battery & Fuses (Part 1)
    * Battery & Fuses (Part 2)
    * Lithium Ion Battery Review
    * Troubleshooting Battery is Damaged or Weak
    * Meters resets on crank start?
    * Time/Clock on Speedometer Keeps Resetting
    * System Rechecks Again When Starting Bike
    * V-Matic Indicator
    * Headlights & Hazard Lights
    * Replace FJS Headlight Bulbs
    * Adjusting Headlight Angle
    * Honda Ignition Security System aka H.I.S.S.
    * Pulse (Pulser) Coil Defective
    * FJS Flasher Relay
    * SW Speedo Rear Connection
    * FJS400 Speedometer Connection/Socket
    * Replacing FJS Headlight Bulbs


    Maintenance

    * SW Parts Catalogue
    * Spare Parts for Honda Silver Wing
    * Fluids in the SW
    * Variator, Roller Weights & Contra spring
    * SW Transmission Assembly
    * Checking the CVT Belt
    * "3-in-1" Maintenance
    * Engines & Overhaul
    * Engine Right Side Cover Leaking
    * Normal Gear Oil For Final Transmission? Not Recommended!
    * Using Car Motor/Engine Oil in Silver Wing
    * SAE Engine Oil vs. Gear Oil Viscosity
    * Crankcase Breather
    * Using a Vacuum Guage or Carb Tuner?
    * Air Screw Synchronisation
    * Changing Spark Plugs Of SW
    * Use Iridium Spark Plugs?
    * Design Symbols for Spark Plugs
    * More About Spark Plugs
    * Genuine, Parallel Imported & Fake Spark Plugs
    * K&N Air Filter For SW400/600
    * Mod: Foam Filter Element for SW
    * Coolant Flush
    * Changing Coolant
    * Radiator & Radiator Cap
    * Removing FJS/JDM Head Cowl
    * About SW Front Suspension
    * Suspension Setting
    * When To Change Suspensions?
    * Combined ABS System for SW
    * Brake Pads
    * Changing Rear Tyres
    * Tyre Markings
    * Tyre Balancing
    * Tyre Mounting/Match Balancing
    * Tyre Valve Caps... got purpose?
    * Tyre & Hydroplaning
    * How to DIY Tyre Balancing
    * Your Rear Tire Does Not Need Balancing
    * Replacement seat gas strut from ebay
    * Replacing the Seat Damper-Opener
    * Re-Wrapping the SW's Seat
    * Rear Spoiler (aka Tail Fin)
    * Adjusting the Parking Brake
    * Checking the SW's Steering Cone
    * Front Brake Caliper "Tock" Sound


    Bike Enhancements

    * Bike Enhancements/Mods
    * 1st 10 Enhancements?
    * Top Boxes
    * Ideas for Non-Stock Silverwing???
    * Aftermarket Variators, Rollers & Torque Spring
    * How To Improve Power?
    * Fabricated Mini Switchboard
    * LED Lights For Silver Wing
    * Types of Switches
    * SWT: installing custom dynamic's EDFR relay for LED signals
    * Headlight Shield
    * Brake Light Modification
    * Silverwing Handguards Project
    * Heavy Aftermarket Bar-End Sliders (aka Balancers)
    * Screen Extension
    * Aftermarket Wind Shields for Honda Silver Wing
    * After-market Suspensions
    * Capacitor Based Add-Ons & Multi-Point Grounding
    * Fork Seal Protectors
    * Street Legal Exhaust for SW (Arrow)
    * Street Legal Exhaust for SW (Leo Vince)
    * DIY Exhaust Headers Wrap
    * Polycarbonate Motorcycle Windshields & Restoration
    * Using a Voltmeter
    * Digital Video Recorder (DVR) on SW - Part 1
    * Digital Video Recorder (DVR) on SW - Part 2
    * Rear Shocks Cover/Protector (DIY)
    * Electric Horns
    * Utility Hooks

    Others

    * Additives in Motor/Engine Oil
    * Garmin Waterproof GPS & RAM Mounting Solutions
    * Petrol... Caltex, ExxonMobil, Shell, SPC, etc.
    * Emergency Tyre Repair/Plugging
    * What To Do If Fuel Tank Emptied... Push Bike?
    * What You Should Know About Motorcycle Helmets
    * Specs for Motorcycle License Plates
    * Stainless Steel = Rustless Steel???
    * Insurance Matters (Part 1): Comprehensive Coverage?
    * Insurance Matters (Part 2): What To Cover?
    * GST... Payable?
    * Some Tips for Convenience




    Acknowledgement & Disclaimer
    * Special thanks ALL CONTRIBUTORS, including 2_wheeler, recko, CCK, momo, patriots, 867k, spin37 and especially loleks who is the initiator of this very useful thread.
    * All info in this thread are contributed by volunteers sharing their personal info & knowledge, and collated published info from the various websites. We do not, at any time, claim that those are our works.
    * Readers shall exercise their own discretion when using information/recommendations from here, contributors to this thread shall not be responsibility for any resulting consequences.
    * There will exist some errors and/or superseded/obsolete information here-n-there due to typo, inaccurate information from Internet "findings", changes over time, etc. Resders are advised that information in this thread are only for reference. Accurate and updated information are best obtained from the respective owners and service manuals, parts manufacturers catalogs/quotes, etc.
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 11-08-2016 at 02:31 PM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

     

     
  3. #3
    greenday
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackChocobo View Post
    Me upz it too~ I suggest to Sticky it~
    Refreshing this thread ~ I also suggest to Sticky this

  4. #4
    scoobydoo
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    Default Recommended Workshops, Contacts & Lobangs

    added some info... updated Performance Motors & Motovation


    Honda Agent: Boon Siew Singapore Pte Ltd
    Tel: 62105081 (parts), 62105099 (service)
    75 Bukit Timah Road, #01-01, Boon Siew Building, Singapore 229833
    http://gothere.sg/maps#q:75%20Bukit%20Timah%20Road
    workmanship: $100 onwards
    belt: $179($135)
    rollers: $42($32)
    sliders(u-clips): $20($15)
    eo filter: $26($20)
    air filter: $57($43)
    battery: $210 (no discount)
    "silver wing" chrome insignia 1 pair: $89 (via order)
    windshield: $500
    * bike from BS can get 25% or 15% discounts on items purchase from their parts centre

    Parts dealer: FJT Parts & Accessories Pte Ltd
    Tel: 63925928, 63925927
    15 Rowell Road, Singapore 207973
    http://gothere.sg/maps#q:15%20Rowell%20Road
    (only sell spares, find you own mechanic)
    belt: $115
    rollers: $40
    sliders(u-clips): $14
    eo filter: $15
    air filter: $45
    magnetic coil (magneto): $260
    yuasa battery: YTZ12S $145, YTZ14S $155
    yuasa battery with honda logo: >$200+ (didn't ask for exact figure)
    "silver wing" chrome insignia 1 pair: abt $80 (via order)
    rear shocks: $210 each

    Parts dealer: Ever Success Auto Parts Pte Ltd
    Tel: 62925909
    17 Lembu Rd, Singapore 208450
    http://gothere.sg/maps#q:17%20Lembu%20Rd
    (only sell spares, find you own mechanic)
    belt: $135
    rollers: $40
    sliders(u-clips): $14
    eo filter: $8 (oem)
    air filter: $42

    Parts dealer: Everfit Motor Pte Ltd
    Tel: 6293 8925
    96 Desker Road, Singapore 209618http://gothere.sg/maps#q:96%20Desker%20Road
    (only sell spares, find you own mechanic)
    sliders: $9+
    clutch pegs: $65+

    Regular/Recommended workshops for servicing:

    A.C. Motor
    Tel: 90220203 (look for Ah Choong)
    10 Kaki Bukit Rd 2 #01-22 (formerly #03-02 then #03-25) First East Centre, S417868
    http://gothere.sg/maps#q:10%20Kaki%20Bukit%20Road%202
    ps: this is a regular shop many of us (including me) go to, good service at reasonable prices. suggest you call to check service availability (minimise waiting time).

    K & T Accessory Trading Pte Ltd
    Tel: 67455463 (look for Clifford)
    3006 Ubi Rd 1 #01-372, Singapore 408700
    http://gothere.sg/maps#q:3006%20Ubi%20Rd%201
    ps: this is a regular shop many of us (including me) go to, good service at reasonable prices. suggest you call to check service availability (minimise waiting time).

    Other workshops:

    Unique Motorsports Pte Ltd
    Main Tel: 68446378 (look for ALEC)
    1 Kaki Bukit Ave 6 #02-54 Autobay @ Kaki Bukit Singapore 417883
    http://gothere.sg/maps#q:417883
    Branch Tel: 6515 4978 (look for ALEX)
    38 Toh Guan Rd East #01-57 Enterprise Hub Singapore 608581
    http://gothere.sg/maps#q:38%20Toh%20Guan%20Rd%20East
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums...=1#post6945212

    Sports Motor
    Tel: 6684 0172 (look for Omar)
    1 Bukit Batok Crescent #02-58 WCEGA Plaza Singapore 658064
    http://gothere.sg/maps#q:wcega%20plaza
    https://www.facebook.com/Sports-Moto...3392952570447/
    Liqui Moly motorbike engine flush $14, full syn EO 10w50 $23 per bott (10w40 is semi syn), K&N oil filter $20, stock oil filter $18, Liqui Moly 75w90 gear oil $18, etc.
    Note: this shop promotes Liqui Moly products in general but also carry other brands at reasonable prices (also got discounts). imo, LM eo is very smooth but may not be very suitable for older bikes where the "thicker" eo helps keep the engine quieter.

    Hodaka Motoworld Pte Ltd
    Tel: 68440792, 68440079 (look for Muji)
    KB Industrial Building, 10 Kaki Bukit Rd 1, #01-08 Singapore 416175
    Boutique Showroom (City Branch) Tel: 63361126
    http://www.motoworld.com.sg/locate.php#
    note: distributor of pirilli bike tyres

    Future Scootering
    Tel: 63922393 (look for Kenny)
    50 Bukit Batok Street 23 #02-26 @ MidView Building Singapore 659578
    http://gothere.sg/maps#q:midview%20building
    ps: IMO, prices have gone up quite a bit, too much for my preference

    Wonderful Motor
    Tel: 96936520 - look for "Botak" (boss)
    494 Macpherson Rd, Singapore 368200
    http://gothere.sg/maps#q:494%20Macpherson%20Rd
    ps: I haven't gone there since 2008, can't comment on prices and services there.

    Sporting Motors Pte Ltd
    1 Kaki Bukit Ave 6 #02-60 Autobay @ Kaki Bukit Singapore 417883
    http://gothere.sg/maps#q:417883
    Tel: 6396 0230

    Parts/Accessories Suppliers:

    Lim Ah Boy Pte Ltd (aka LAB)
    Tel: 62967914, 62968035
    23 Kelantan Lane #01-03 Kim Hoe Centre S(208642)
    http://gothere.sg/maps#q:23%20Kelant...20Hoe%20Centre
    - sells almost everything you need for a bike, except the bike, towing too
    - Givi E450 Simply (matt black) + plastic base plate $100
    - Givi E450 Simply (matt black) + brake lights + plastic base plate $110
    - Givi E52 Maxia case only $280
    - Givi aluminium base plate for Maxia $50
    - throttle rocker $4

    Cyclenet Pte Ltd
    ~ Givi authorised distributor in Singapore
    1179 Serangoon Road, Singapore 328232
    Tel: 62956393, 62950748
    Email: elyngoh10@<a href="http://www.singap...hoo</a>.com.sg
    company is together with Mah Pte Ltd (not Mah Motor)

    Tat Beng & Co Battery Service
    Tel: 62981110
    121 Lavender Street S338732
    http://gothere.sg/maps#q:121%20Lavender%20Street
    Yuasa YTZ-14S $145 (cash), +7% GST if with invoice
    ~ as at 28/03/2011

    Wing Yap Motor Pte Ltd
    Tel: 64513338 (look for Jackson)
    Blk 4003 #01-114 AMK Ave 10
    Singapore 569624
    http://www.wingyap.com.sg/
    Skyrich Lithium Battery - Singapore distributor

    Eugene Saddlery
    203A Jalan Besar Singapore 208889
    Tel: 62933613, 94307471 (look for Eugene)
    https://www.facebook.com/pages/Eugen...64522110267438
    http://eugenesaddlery.weebly.com/

    Performance Motors (Bukit Timah)
    Sime Darby Centre, 896 Dunearn Road Singapore 589472
    (go to level 2)
    Tel: 6319 0208
    ~ BMW motorcycle grip $23.10

    Motorvation Accessory
    53 Ubi Ave 1 Paya Ubi Industrial Park #03-29 Singapore 408934
    Tel: 67471477, Fax: 67471477
    Monday-Friday 1030hrs-1630hrs, Saturday 1030hrs-1400hrs
    http://www.motovation-accessory.com....hp?act=contact
    ~ Stainless Steel Barend Sliders (for Suzuki), Model: #SSS02 $70.00


    Looking for Stock & OEM parts online?

    Check these out... note that many parts from FSC600 (US sites) are also usable.

    WeBike.net ... Shop in Japan
    http://japan.webike.net/HONDA/SW-T40...0%29/228/mtop/

    Wemoto.com ... Shop in UK
    http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/honda/fj...verwing/06-08/
    http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/honda/fj...wing_a9_d9/09/

    Racing Planet UK ... Shop in UK
    http://www.racing-planet.co.uk/silve...4_27489-1.html
    http://www.racing-planet.co.uk/silve...4_27523-1.html

    BikeParts Honda ... Shop in France
    http://www.bike-parts-honda.com/hond...-400-2009.html
    http://www.bike-parts-honda.com/hond...-400-2010.html

    OEM Motorparts.com ... Shop in The Netherlands (aka Hollan)
    https://www.oemmotorparts.com/oem4.a...&L=HO-FJS400D8

    Service Honda ... Shop in US
    http://www.servicehonda.com/parts.html

    JC Whitney ... Shop in US
    http://www.jcwhitney.com/motorcycle/...id=d60196y2009

    Twisted Throttle ... Shop in US
    http://www.twistedthrottle.com/shop-...silverwing-600

    Scooter West ... Shop in US
    http://www.scooterwest.com/pv_items/...600/global/137


    For used spare parts, may also consider scrapyards, e.g.

    Ah Ann Trading
    76 Sungei Kadut St 1 (near J5 Block)
    http://gothere.sg/maps#q:76%20Sungei%20Kadut%20St%201
    ... updated as at Dec 2013
    Recommended to ask if they have what you want before going down
    Ah Ann HP 96256549

    Need Headlights Halogen Bulbs? SW uses H7
    Personally, I'ld recommend the Philips Xtreme Vision (or Power) over the Osrams or Ring which I have used, other than those much cheaper Korean or few dollars "standard" halogen bulbs.
    Why not the very popular Diamond Vision? Cos its colour temperated is rated at 5000K, not LTA friendly.

    anodise57
    <CMO> Premium Products - HELLA, Philips & Osram

    SMS or Whatsapp: 98898161

    MXTradings
    Frontier 50 Ubi Ave 3, #05-13 Singapore 408866
    Tue~Fri: 1pm to 8pm
    Weekends: 10.30am~2pm
    Closed on Mondays & Public Holidays
    HP: 90262657 (Nicholas)
    http://www.mxtradings.com/Osram%20Philips.htm
    H7 Philips Xtreme Vision costs S$63 a pair.

    Autolamps-Online.com
    http://www.autolamps-online.com/cate...dtreme-Vision/
    H7 Philips Xtreme Vision costs US$38.22 (excl. VAT) a pair.
    ... convert at 1.265 ... around S$48.35 a pair

    PowerBulbs.com
    http://www.powerbulbs.com/
    for comparison purpose, H7 Philips Xtreme Vision costs US$42.85 a pair.
    ... convert at 1.265 ... around S$54.21


    _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

    notes:
    ~ prices may vary according to your bargaining skills, friendship power, any promotion or package deals, etc.
    ~ unless otherwise stated, prices are historical prices only for reference as a guide, i.e. not current quotes.
    ~ prices may vary according to market conditions and foreign exchange fluctuations (e.g. more expensive when japanese yen appreciates)
    ~ workmanship charges WILL differ at different motorshops/mechanics thus not included here
    ~ workmanship charges of $100 at BS is for only changing the belt, roller & u-clips job, WILL increase when other jobs are also done
    _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 06-04-2016 at 09:07 AM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  5. #5
    paithorn
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    Quote Originally Posted by lokeks View Post
    just to clarify,
    I believe BOON SIEW only had JDM SW600, not JDM SW400.
    Their (Boon Siew) SW400 shd be all EURO version, becos they only bring in this year after April I believe.
    So, all SW400 (in Sg) after april this year shd be Euro version.
    I went to Boon Siew. The sales guy said that Boon Siew does not bring in 600s and they are all PI.
    Likewise all JDM 400s are PI.

  6. #6
    paithorn
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    Default Authorized Bike Dealers

    Authorized Bike Dealers

    A. S. Phoon Pte Ltd
    399 Changi Road, Singapore 419846
    Tel: 6747 0770 Fax: 6841 1263

    Ban Hon Brothers Pte Ltd
    Blk 5022 Ang Mo Kio Industrail Park 2, #01-19, Singapore 569525
    Tel: 6481 7277 Fax: 6482 4077

    Bike Production Pte Ltd
    610 Serangoon Road, Singapore 218216
    Tel: 6392 2555 Fax: 6299 5537

    Guan Hoe Cheong Trading Co.
    1108/ 1110 Serangoon Road, Singapore 328200
    Tel: 6292 3737 Fax: 6292 7252

    HH Motor Co. Pte Ltd
    Blk 1006 Bukit Merah Lane 2, #01-02, Singapore 159762
    Tel: 6270 9810 Fax: 6272 4225

    Heng Motor Enterprise
    471 Changi Road 5 1/2 M.S. Singapore 419889
    Tel: 6747 8788 Fax: 6747 2411

    L H Motor Pte Ltd
    873/875 Upper Bukit Timah Road, Singapore 678176
    Tel: 6769 1717 Fax: 6760 0626

    Looi's Motor
    55 Kaki Bukit Place, Singapore 416230
    Tel: 6743 1072 Fax: 6742 2204

    Mah Motor Agencies
    361 Jalan Besar, Singapore 208993
    Tel: 6294 7648 Fax:6298 2065
    Mah Pte Ltd
    1179 Serangoon Road, Singapore 328232
    Tel: 6295 6393 Fax:6295 0748

    Meng Motor Co.
    211 Jalan Besar, Singapore 208896
    Tel: 6297 6623 Fax: 6293 6637

    Yew Heng Credit (Albert Motor)
    Blk 1008 Bukit Merah Lane 3, #01-10 Singapore 159722
    Tel: 6273 7188 Fax: 273 7790

  7. #7
    scoobydoo
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    Default Electricals

    Have you ever wondered where the current required to power our bikes' electric system comes from, apart from the battery?

    Electrical supply comes from a combination of parts, each performing a different role of the "supply chain"

    * 12V DC Battery
    * Alternator (produces AC)
    * Rectifiers (converts AC into DC)
    * Filters smooth out the DC


    Alternator (sometimes called Magnetic Coil)

    Note: magnetic coil for SWT is slightly different (more expensive too) than that used for FJS/JDM model.

    Alternators are used to charge the battery and to power the electric system of a car/motorcycle when the engine is running. An alternator is an electromechanical device that converts mechanical energy to alternating current (AC) electrical energy. Most alternators use a rotating magnetic field but linear alternators are occasionally used. In principle, any AC electrical generator can be called an alternator, but usually the word refers to small rotating machines driven by automotive and other internal combustion engines.



    SW's magnetic coil is located in the crank case just behind the right side engine cover.





    There are two main types of alternator that are fitted to most bikes, each requiring a different type of regulator rectifier.

    1) Permanent Magnet Rotor alternator (PMR):
    This has permanent magnets that revolve with the engine (rotor), either inside or around a set of wound coils (stator) to produce power. These come in various shapes and sizes. Some have two output wires (single phase), but most have three (three phase).

    2) Field Control Type (FCT):
    This has a 'field' or 'exciter' coil that is in place of the fixed magnets. When supplied with power from the regulator this becomes magnetised. Some types have this coil spinning inside the output 'phase' coils to give power, and will have carbon brush connections. Others have a stationary field coil, stationary phase coils and have a metal rotor spinning between the two, and need no brushes. The amount of power supplied to the field coil from the regulator decides how much output the alternator will give.


    Rectifiers

    The electric system of a car/motorcycle uses direct current (DC) instead of AC current. Thus, the AC output from the alternator has to be converted into a DC current before being supplied to the battery and electrical system. Rectifiers (or diode bridge) are used to convert AC to DC. A rectifier is an electrical device that converts alternating current (AC) to direct current (DC), a process known as rectification.

    In half wave rectification, either the positive or negative half of the AC wave is passed, while the other half is blocked. Because only one half of the input waveform reaches the output, it is very inefficient if used for power transfer. A full-wave rectifier converts the whole of the input waveform to one of constant polarity (positive or negative) at its output. Full-wave rectification converts both polarities of the input waveform to DC (direct current), and is more efficient.


    Filters

    While half-wave and full-wave rectification suffice to deliver a form of DC output, neither produces constant-voltage DC. In order to produce steady DC from a rectified AC supply, a smoothing circuit or filter is required. Basically, it is a reservoir capacitor, filter/smoothing capacitor, placed at the DC output of the rectifier. There will still remain an amount of AC ripple voltage where the voltage is not completely smoothed.


    Voltage Regulators

    If the DC load is very demanding of a smooth supply voltage, a voltage regulator will be used in addition to the capacitor-input filter, both to remove the last of the ripple and to deal with variations in supply and load characteristics.

    Some aftermarket products that perform such function are voltage stabilisers, power abuser, etc., all of which uses capacitors to store charge in order to smoothen the DC supply to the electrical system.

    How to test the Regulator Rectifier?

    Check the battery voltage, with the engine not running. Start the bike (increase the rpm's up a little), the voltage should now be a couple of volts more than the original battery voltage. Check both voltages (running and not running) at battery terminals.

    What can go wrong with it
    If yours does fail. Before going to the time and bother and expense of replacing one, it is prudent to consider that there are usually contributory factors to a failure. You should conduct a thorough inspection of all other parts of the electrical system and verify that all components are in good working order and that the regulator was correctly mounted to allow dissipation of heat produced. You could also perform some basic postmortem checks on the regulator/rectifier itself, and attempt to determine what has failed, internally if you have the necessary test equipment.

    Total failure
    Total failure does not usually mean that every part inside the unit died at the same time. All of the parts share a common ground or hot connection; if the unit tests out totally dead, then this internal connection could have failed. This is typically due to either a manufacturing defect, overheating or metal fatigue from too many heating and cooling cycles. A failed connection can cause any of the observed failure modes, so keep that in mind: just because the device doesn't test out totally dead, doesn't mean that it wasn't defective or simply overheated one too many times.

    Failed diodes
    If this happens, your battery will stop being charged, the lights become progressively more dim, and eventually the engine will stop. First look for a short or bad connection to the alternator stator coils. A bad connection can cause some serious voltage spikes, which can destroy diodes. Check also for a bad battery connection and any oxide build up on the terminals and connectors. A shorted battery or reversed terminals could cause the diodes to draw too much current and burn out. These symptoms could also point to stator failure so check the coil resistances and or output voltage if your meter has an AC range, to eliminate this.

    Failed Shunt Regulator
    If this happens, your headlight may become very bright and then blow. Your battery may have boiled dry also.

    If the regulator burned out, check your battery connections, if they are loose or corroded the regulator has nowhere to route the output and so must get rid of the power produced in the form of heat. Also, make sure that all of your running lights are working; remember, the regulator sinks excess power, and generates a lot of heat in the process. If all of the lights aren't working, that's more heat for the regulator to get rid of.


    Relevant Readings:
    11 * Battery & Fuses (Part 1)
    12 * Battery & Fuses (Part 2)





    acknowledgement:
    information extracted from various internet sites, too many to remember
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 19-07-2012 at 01:02 PM. Reason: additional information
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  8. #8
    paithorn
    loves my new ride!
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    Default

    I was researching some difference btn SW400 and 600 and realised their FC defers quite a lot?

  9. #9
    bigcow
    has no scooter, but still travel
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    Quote Originally Posted by paithorn View Post
    I was researching some difference btn SW400 and 600 and realised their FC defers quite a lot?
    its actually damn a lot
    TEAM RedBull Singapore

    Daniel aka bigcow +65 9105-0569

    ScooTourers: Have Scooter, Will Travel...

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    scoobydoo
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    Default Battery & Fuses (Part 1)

    Batteries for Honda Silver Wing (FJS/JDM 400, SWT/GT 400 & FSC600 uses same model)

    * 12V DC
    * Part Nos.: YTZ9, YTZ12, YTZ12-S, etc
    * Standard = Maintenance free type; usually using gel or factory sealed cos SW's batt is fitted sideways, lying down inside left rear panel access through under-seat storage compartment
    * Sizes vary a little with different manufacturers and performance rating: but generally around
    ___ L150mm x W87mm x H110mm
    ___ L6" x W3.4375 x H4.375"
    * Charging: approx. 14V, 1.1A
    * Capacity: 9~12 Ah

    * Althernative = Lithium type
    E.g. MO lithium battery, Skyrich lithium battery, Ballistic lithium battery, etc.

    <CMO> Super Light Weight Lithium Batteries for Bikes
    Cell count - size - weight - price
    4 cell 2.3Ah - 55x70x55mm - 330gm - $90 (not usually on hand)
    8 cell 4.6Ah - 105x70x55mm - 650gm - $180
    12 cell 6.9Ah - 105x70x83mm - 950gm - $240
    SW uses either 8 or 12 cells



    Skyrich lithium battery

    read this for more info (my review on Skyrich)
    * Lithium Ion Battery Review



    Ballistic Lithium battery


    About Maintenance Free Batteries

    Note: can also use YTZ14-S since physical dimension is the same

    Comparisons:

    . . . . . . . YTZ12-S . YTZ14-S
    Voltage . . 12V . . . . 12V
    Capacity .. 11.0 . . .. 11.2
    Weight . .. 3.7kg . .. 3.9kg
    Amps . . .. 1.1 . . . .. 1.1
    CCA . . . .. 210 . . . . 230

    Yuasa Batteries - Technical Manual
    http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/TechMan.pdf
    http://www.mdsbattery.co.uk/datashee...-technical.pdf


    Need to change your battery?
    no need to buy the original "honda" battery... i was quoted >$220+ in mid 2008, dunno inflated to how much now. but hey! it is no different from the Yuasa YTZ12S which costs only ½ of that, only difference is the Yuasa-Honda case. you pay double for the "chicken wing" logo.

    personally, i have used all 3 types; YTX12A-BS, YTZ14S and the "honda" YTZ12S that came with bike.
    my recommendation is to pay $10+ more and get the bigger capacity YTZ14S (used in bigger Honda bikes like STX). yes, it fits nicely as both 12S & 14S has the same physical dimensions. many of us have been using that for years.
    i wouldn't recommend the much cheaper (<$70 from LAB) and smaller 12A-BS, although it can still start the SW. battery is the life source of the SW... invest in a good one.

    best price we know is from KS Motor Co... $130 for a YTZ14S
    see Tech post #5 for address & contact
    Ampere-hours (A·h) is the product of the time that a battery can deliver a certain amount of current (in hours) times that current (in amps), for a particular discharge period. This is one indication of the total amount of charge a battery is able to store and deliver at its rated voltage. This rating is rarely stated for automotive batteries.
    * Cold Cranking Amperes: 75~115A
    Cranking amps are the numbers of amperes a lead-acid battery at 32 degrees F (0 degrees C) can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12 volt battery). In other words, CA/cranking amps determine how much power you have to start your car in most climates. The basic job of a battery is to start an engine; it must crank, or rotate the crankshaft while at the same time maintain sufficient voltage to activate the ignition system until the engine fires and maintains rotation. This requirement involves a high discharge rate in amperes for a short period of time. Since it is more difficult for a battery to deliver power when it is cold, and since the engine requires more power to turn over when it is cold, the Cold Cranking rating is defined as: The number of amperes a lead-acid battery at 0 degrees F (-17.8 degrees C) can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12-volt battery). In other words, CCA/cold cranking amps determine how much power you have to start your car on cold winter mornings.
    maintenance free batts that can fit SilverWing (sealed & factory activated)...






    additional readings at Silverwing Forum (silvering.org):
    http://silverwing.org/cgi-bin/topic_show.pl?tid=3026

    for those who doesn't have or have lost the owner's manual, attached is the extracts from the manual; page 112 - 117 showing:

    * gaining access to battery
    battery is located inside the left side panel (see page 12 & 113 of manual), accessible via under-seat storage... lift the seat, you will see a plastic cover with 2 screws on the left side, battery is inside there.
    (note that battery is the sealed maintenance-free type, i.e. no need to check for electrolyte level or add distilled water)

    The Battery
    The SW uses a maintenance free accumulator battery which is physically similar to those used in cars, except that it is smaller and uses specially formulated electrolyte (likely in gel form) instead of sulphuric acid so that users don't need to top up battery water (distilled water).
    The battery's case is usually made of toughened polypropylene plastic which is covered or sealed once the electrolytes are filled. Some maintenance free batteries' seal design allow the unit to be positioned lying down without having the electrolyte flowing out.

    Chemical Electricity
    Electrical energy from the accumulator battery is generated via a chemical process between the electrolytes and electrodes; usually made up of a series of connected +ve and +ve galvanic lead plates in a electrolyte solution (e.g. 35% sulfuric acid & 65% distilled water along with lead oxide (powdered lead). The chemical reaction between the acidic fluid and lead plates gives out electrons that pass from the plates to the +ve and -ve nodes of the battery, delivering electrical energy. Outputs are measured in Volts and Amperes.
    As the purity condition of the electrolyte and electrodes deteriorates, the amount of electrons thus electrical energy produced by the battery also reduces accordingly.

    Functions
    The primary functions of a battery are starting, lighting, and ignition. Their two electrical output functions are in volts and amps. Although we 12V is also available from a single 12V dry cell battery (or by connecting 8x 1.5V dry cell batteries), they do not have the sufficient amperage (100~200A) to crank start the engine.

    The batter powers up the car starter which then spins the engine's flywheel and subsequently, the crankcase. The crankcase is connected to the belt/chain driven pulleys that the alternator (magnetic coil) is integrated with. The alternator takes over the recharging supply to the battery once the engine is running. Without charging from the alternator, the battery would be drained and dead in a matter of hours. Although an alternator is unlikely to fully recharge a battery, it resupply the battery with the energy it has lost from starting the vehicle and the electrical energy drawn from it.

    Activation
    Generally, an accumulator battery is activated when the electrolyte (chemicals like sulphuric acid or gel) starts reacting with the electrodes (usually lead) inside the battery. Some batteries are sold pre-activated while some require the buyer to pour electrolyte into the "empty" cell, then wait for a few hours before usage. Care has to be exercised when handling the electrolyte as it is highly acidic and produces unhealthy fumes; protective gloves and well ventilated environment are highly recommended.

    Shelf Life
    A battery is not ready for use after manufacturing until it is activated. Factory activated batteries starts to weaken during the period between storage, shipping, retail placement, and finally purchased by the consumer. Sulfation or the build up of lead sulfates inside the battery compartments slowly deteriorates the battery. Therefore, it is very important to check the manufacture date of factory activated batteries; reputable battery manufacturers and retailers usually date stamp their batteries to help monitor the "freshness" of their products.

    The SW's stock battery is factory activated. If buying used bikes, checking for age of battery is a must.

    Charging
    Charging of a typical accumulator battery takes place when voltage is around 14V (13.8V~14.3V), between 2A~10A (depending on charging time), and takes more than just a few minutes; few hours are required for "full" charge even when using high Amperage charging (commonly known as quick charge).
    Recommended way to recharge is to use small ampere (e.g. ~2A) over for a long period of time; commonly known as "Trickle Charge". Quick charging may be done by using a higher amp setting (e.g. 10A); should only be done if time is limited as overcharging will cause damage to the battery.

    Generally, charging may be done:

    (a) While riding the bike...
    If you have a voltmeter fitted (more accurate if use a multimeter to measure directly from the 2 nodes of the battery), you will see that voltage generated by the bikes alternator (aka magneto or magnetic coil) at idling (about 1.2k rpm) is only around 12+~13V and increases to 14+V as we rev the rpm up (e.g. >4k rpm). This is one common way to test the bike's alternator for working condition. If 14+V cannot be consistently achieved with higher rpm, then something may be wrong with the alternator. This is on the basis that voltmeter is not defective and measures the output accurately (within spec).
    Charging using this mode has 2 criteria, sufficient voltage from the alternator and sufficient charging duration. In other words, charging is unlikely to occur if we merely start the engine and leave it running at idling for a few minutes.

    (b) At the workshop using battery chargers...
    Charging services are commonly available at workshops costing only a few dollars, sometimes FOC on goodwill. The batt is taken out and connected to battery charger which runs a stipulated current through it over few hours.
    e.g. 14+V & 2A for overnight charge, 14+V & 10A for few hours quick charge, etc.
    Note that overcharging (too long hours or too high Amperage) a battery may cause damage which may be irreversible, depending on extent of damage to the electrodes.
    E.g. suppose 16A is used to charge a bike battery, the high current could damage the electrodes (warp at lead plates and overheating) and ruined the battery. Not sure about risk of battery exploding.

    e.g. of commercial batt charger
    http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.gif
    http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg
    http://image.ec21.com/image/luck168/...Tranformer.jpg
    e.g. of a small "home" bike batt charger http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...lL._SS500_.jpg
    e.g. of portable solar batt charger http://www.gadgetreview.com/wp-conte...6/07/99737.jpg

    Some indications of battery health?
    + Age is a consideration but a properly maintained battery could last much longer than one that is taxed and poorly taken cared of. The SW uses a maintenance free battery (e.g..YTZ12S or 14S) so maintenance is somewhat out of the equation.
    + Riding the bike regularly means the battery is charged regularly. It is said that the battery of a seldom used bike tends to die earlier.
    + Physical condition issues such as cracks, electrolyte leakage or excessive oxidation at the nodes could be early tell-tale signs.
    + After turning on the ignition, a faint but distinct “eeeeeeeee” sound could be heard coming from inside the bike is a good sign that battery is “critically” ill.
    + When starting bike, it takes a longer than normal time to finish crank phase (turning of the crankshaft) before engine is fired up; some pp describe it as if bike is “struggling” to start.
    + While some pp regard the syndrome of electronics/meters resetting every time cranking is done is a sign that battery is weak and due for servicing/replacement, there are others who feels otherwise.

    bike not started...
    a healthy fully charged batt should give output 12+ to around 13V. if voltage is <12V, it may not be properly charged or it is not able to hold charge.

    bike started and at idling...
    alternator (magnetic coil) start to work but generates lower voltage due to lower rpm. voltage reading is usually around 13+V.

    bike started and rev to higher rpm...
    alternator (magnetic coil) works harder and generates higher voltage, sufficient to power the bike and charge the batt. typically, lead-acid typed batts (including maintenance free types) require around 13.9~14.4V for proper charging to take place.

    if voltage readings are well below, something may be defective. usual checks are:
    a) condition of batt, try sending the batt for charging and see if its the batt problem.
    b) condition of charging system units. i.e. magnetic coil, rectifier.
    c) circuit "leaks"; difficult as it involves tracing the electrical harness for connections that continues to draw power when it is not "in use" or any short circuits.
    BIG Question... is battery being charged?

    if there's a problem with your bike's charging system, changing a new battery doesn't help as the new battery will run flat in no time... drained since no charging occurs. many SWingers installed Voltmeters on their bike to monitor the health of their batteries... voltage should be within "normal" ranges when bike is at idling (about 12+V) and on the run (14V~14.5V).

    nevertheless, there's no need to panic if voltage falls outside the normal range, cos voltmeter could be defective. we can do a simple DIY test, with a simple multimeter (not costly too) which is readily available at many hardware/electrical shops or supermarkets.

    DIY test steps

    (a) location
    put bike at main stand at a well ventilated location (select a place that does not cause inconvenience or disturbance to your neighbors). switch off all electrical components, including headlights if possible.

    (b) measure the voltages at battery
    lift seat, remove battery cover and connect a multimeter to measure the voltage directly from the nodes of battery. see if voltage is within normal range.

    (c) interpret the readings
    normal ranges:
    ... +/-12V when engine not started
    ... 12+V when started/idling
    ... 13~14+V when rev up to 3-4k rpm

    if voltage doesn't increase with higher rpm, then something is likely wrong. voltmeter error? defective charging system?

    voltmeter no longer reliable?
    check the difference between the readings of the voltmeter (if fitted) and the multimeter (more accurate to measure directly at the battery). it's normal for voltmeter readings to be slightly lower than the multimeter readings as voltmeters are usually connected to the electrical harness after the ignition switch (many components draw power from the battery once the ignition is turned on).
    but if the readings differ a lot, or when voltmeter readings do not rise as much as multimeter readings when rpm increases, then do consider the voltmeter as "no longer reliable".

    poor/no charging?
    charging problems could be caused a few elements, most commonly the magnetic coil and/or the rectifier. do note that we need at least about 14V to supply power to the bike and charge the battery.

    if voltage does not increase when rpm increases, chances are, magnetic coil is defective (usually due to some burnt coil) as it is supposed to generate higher "electromagnetic" energy (raw output is AC) at higher rpms.

    if voltage readings "jumps" about (between +ve and -ve), chances are, rectifier is defective and no charging could occur. 14+V DC voltage is required to charge the battery and converting AC current to DC current to power up all the electricals and electronics in the bike is the job of the rectifier. defective rectifier, no charging.

    (d) measure the voltage at output terminal
    the output terminal of the magnetic coil is located under/behind the right side pillion foot rest plate. remove the plate and use the multimeter to test the output.

    p/s: i'm unable to describe the process cos only saw ah choong did it. didn't DIY.

    i remembered that BS tested my charging system (few years ago) in 2 stages:
    * when bike is "cool"

    * when bike is hot
    i was told by BS mech that my charging was ok when engine is not hot, but magnetic coil's performance deteriorated when it became hot, after having the engine running for some time. this is a sign of partially defective aka about to "die" magnetic coil
    Some causes of battery problems?
    + Wear-n-tear. As the battery is used, the electrolytes inside deteriorates and the electrodes (usually made of lead) are slowly “eaten” away.
    + Sulfation is like cancer to a human body and causes premature “death” to a battery by impairing the condition of the electrodes.
    + Battery not charged; charging system may be defective. Defective components could be the stator aka magnetic coil (located at inside of right crank case cover) and/or the rectifier (located inside right side head cowl near the coolant reservoir).
    + Shorted electricals form closed circuits and drains the battery continuously; usually caused by poor/bad wirings of additional gadgets or damages to the rubber sleeves of wires/harness. Serious shorts usually cause fuse(s) to blow immediately which in turn disables the bike.
    + A common drain among cars could be leaving the headlights on overnight. But for a stock SW, the only live light after ignition is turned off (suppose seat was not closed properly or defective sensor) could be the under-seat cabin light which does not draw much current, not an issue if left on overnight but may have consequences if left on over prolonged periods. Some riders added a switch simply too out the not so useful bulb.

    Date codes on batteries
    http://silverwing.org/mwf/attach/13/..._DATE_CODE.pdf


    Fuses

    * checking / replacing fuses
    fuses are located at 3 locations (see page 114-117 of manual)... 2 fuse boxes externally/easily accessible under the seat (10A, 15A & main fuse B 30A), 1 main fuse A (30A) inside left side panel which needs some dismantling






    acknowledgement:
    information extracted from the Yuasa website, Honda Silver Wing owner's manual and mentioned websites
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 13-07-2015 at 09:49 AM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  11. #11
    scoobydoo
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    Default Battery & Fuses (Part 2)

    This is a follow up on the Battery discussion...

    A bro asked me what to do when his SW's batt went flat recently, so i tot maybe we should something on that


    My battery is dead?

    + When a battery holds no charge (zero voltage), it is dead. Depending on condition, it may be revived by charging using external chargers provided that the electrodes and electrolytes inside are not beyond recovery; some cases may require replacing/refilling the electrolytes.

    + A non-functional battery may be as "good" as dead; it may still hold charge but insufficient to start the engine as it is unable to deliver sufficient current to turn the stationary crankshaft and fire up the engine at the same time; the alternator takes over once the engine is started. Usually, charging could get it back operational again.


    What to do if your battery is "dead"?

    + Call for towing services (e.g. Bikebulance +65 64255333, +65 96880928) or call your regular mechanic/motortiam (they have contacts/vendors) to arrange for recovery.

    + Call for “mobile mechanics” (e.g. Ah Hwa 97641031, Ah Peng 90028236, Ah Lai 94316851) who could possibly resolve your basic breakdowns on-site. We need to tell them over the phone what is wrong/symptoms so that they could decide whether able to repair on-site and make necessary preparations (e.g. parts). Some motortiams also provide similar on-site services.

    + Call a family member or friend who is free and willing to buy/deliver the required battery to you.

    + Park bike somewhere safe, remove and take the battery to motortiam for charging (quick charge needs about 1~2hrs if battery is still recoverable). Then return to bike with charged battery, mount it and start bike again.

    + Jump starting. Can try flagging down a passing by car/bike (or call a family member or friend) but a “jumper” cable is required. Some bikers always carry a small set (usually fabricated) as those commonly available for cars are too bulky.

    After bike is revived, always ride it to a mechanic for proper diagnosis… a battery usually don’t go dead out of the blue for nothing. Even if a new battery is fitted, it will go flat very soon if the charging system is defective



    Notes:
    (1) Although Bikebulance also offers towing services for breakdowns in Malaysia & Thailand, it is more economical to buy a battery (if breakdown is due to dead battery) than to pay the hefty tow charges (a few hundred SGD). They don’t do towing in Thailand so if bike broke down in southern Thailand (e.g. Hatyai), we have to get the bike pass Malaysian customs/immigration at Bt Kayu Hitam (Kedah) before they will meet you there. We also need to provide paperwork (e.g. photocopies of owner’s passport, log card, sign some forms, etc) to facilitate customs clearing into Singapore.

    (2) I have checked with a mechanic who is based in KL and his recommendation for a SW breakdown in Malaysia (other than simple faults or battery problem that does not require SW specific spare parts) is to ship the bike back to Singapore. Reason is there are no spare parts (unless mod or use compatible parts) for SW and lack of knowhow due to lack of SW in “Boleh-land”; heard that the very few SW inside are bought and serviced in Singapore.

    Last edited by scoobydoo; 17-06-2011 at 02:06 PM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

     

     
  12. #12
    scoobydoo
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    Default Use Iridium Spark Plugs?

    Whether it is time to replace your worn out plugs or thinking of getting a little more efficiency from your stock engine setup or just reading/listening to other riders talk about better accelerations by using better spark plugs, the information below would be of much value


    These are what the manufacturers says…

    What's all the fuzz about iridium plugs?
    What is Iridium?
    Iridium is a precious, silver-white metal and one of the densest materials found on earth.
    The natural properties of Iridium offered NGK the opportunity to create one of the world's finest spark plugs. The result are spark plugs that require less voltage to spark, burns fuel more efficiently, sparks at leaner air/fuel mixtures, and delivers higher horsepower and better gas mileage.
    The fine electrode tip is engineered for greater ignitability. And it's in the design of the iridium tip that makes Iridium IX a better spark plug.
    The electrode is not too thin and not too thick. It's just the right size to reduce the voltage required for spark and to maximize the overall longer life qualities of iridium.
    Q. Why was Iridium not used until today?
    A. The extreme strength of the metal inhibited its large-scale usage in spark plugs. However, through recent technological advances, DENSO has harnessed the power of Iridium. DENSO’s patented alloy is composed of iridium, complimented by rhodium (an even stronger metal). The rhodium is added to increase oxidation and wear resistance. DENSO was able to make this durable alloy workable by pioneering and patenting a Laser-Welding/process. This process provides a 360-degree weld so reliable that the electrode resists wear, even in the harshest conditions.
    Why use iridium plugs?
    Q. What makes Iridium better?
    A. Until recently, platinum was considered the best material to use on the top of an electrode because of its durability. However, Iridium is 6 times harder, 8 times stronger, and has a melting point 1200 degrees higher than platinum. Put that into a harsh environment such as an engine piston chamber, and you have a spark plug that can resist wear much better than platinum. Additionally, the DENSO Iridium Power alloy is so durable; it allowed our engineers to produce the world’s smallest center electrode (.4mm) which reduces the voltage requirements, concentrating its sparking power. Also, its smaller size, combined with the tapered U-Groove ground electrode, allows more room for the flame kernel to develop and produce a more efficient combustion.
    Q. What kind of performance will I get from this plug?
    A. Generally, you do not purchase spark plugs for performance enhancement. While DENSO Iridium Power spark plugs have contributed to numerous accomplishments through dyno-testing and actual use, their true benefit lies in their efficiency, durability, and improved firing power. Serious tuners modify their vehicles by increasing boost through turbo-chargers, super-chargers, and Nitrous. They are also known to add high-energy ignition systems, tinker with timing, adjust fuel mixture ratios, and increase horsepower through other means. Putting these kinds of demands on their engine increases the need for an efficient, durable spark plug that can handle these kind of harsh environments. That’s where DENSO Iridium Power can make a major difference.
    Who are the major makers?

    Main makes in Singapore…
    Denso…
    NGK…
    OWS…

    Others…
    Volker… German
    http://www.volker-iridium.com/images/volker pack1.jpg
    Torch Iridium spark plugs… China
    http://upload.ecvv.com/upload/Produc...park_plugs.jpg
    Wanbaolong Iridium spark plugs 070D… China
    http://img.alibaba.com/photo/5209611..._Plug_070D.jpg

    Which to choose?

    Be it Denso, NGK or OWS, each has got their own group of supporters. Manufacturers have their claims and users have their preferences.
    It is very much a matter of personal preference, but get the real thing! There’s rumours that “imitations” (claimed to be OEM) are also in the market.
    Going by budget (from quotes I got in Jun 2008), NGK is more economical, followed by Denso and then OWS.
    My personal preference is for Denso or NGK. Have considered the twin iridium tipped OWS but dropped the idea after reading some scary feedbacks from other riders using them.
    Definitely wouldn’t even think about other makes to be on the safe side.

    Here’s the results of a poll made http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums...lts&pollid=800
    Some feedbacks… OWS & Hodaka iridium spark plugs broke inside engine
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums...&postcount=487
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums...&postcount=519
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums...&postcount=521
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums...ark+plug+broke
    Q5. Which Iridium plugs are better? NGK Iridium IX or Denso Iridium Power?
    A5. That really depends on what you want from your plugs. Denso's Iridium Power reputedly offer the best performance but have a shorter service life than NGK's Iridium IX.
    What plugs does Honda Silver Wing uses?

    Honda Silver Wing FJS 400 (Euro) owner's manual indicated that we can use the following spark plugs:
    __ Denso: U22FER-9, U24FER-9 (IUH-24 / 24D not stated but cross referenced)
    __ NGK : CR7EH-9, CR8EH-9 (CR8EHIX-9 not stated but cross referenced)
    e.g. IUH24 means 0.4mm diameter iridium tip, 10 diameter x 19mm reach (half thread) x 16.0mm hex, heat range 24. IUH24D is same but has no u-grove at incone1 ground electrode.
    http://www.globaldenso.com/en/produc...ower/spec.html

    IUH24 or IUH24D?
    Both can be used for the SW. Difference between them is only the U-Grove that is available in the IUH24. Function of the grove is to let the flame kernel caused by the spark to grow to a larger size, even at lower spark voltage and narrower gap.




    Quote Originally Posted by SW9000 View Post
    IUH24D don't have the groove thus is less powerful, less torque but seems slightly smoother.

    Go for the recommended IUH24.
    To find out more about what these codes mean, read Design Symbols for Spark Plugs

    Where to buy and how much?

    Parts suppliers (e.g. FJT, 219, etc), all major motorshops (Looi’s, Mah, ASP, HKL, etc) and the all famous LAB carries but prices will vary from $15 to $20+ each, depending on your bargaining skills and whether installation included.
    Motoworld quoted $40 (2x IUH24) including installation so I went to LAB and got them for $30, DIY and saved $10.

    When to change (service life)?

    Recommendations from the manufacturers...
    Denso = 30,000 miles or 50,000 km
    NGK = 50,000 miles or 80,000 km
    OWS = 200,000 miles or 320,000 km
    Q. How long will Iridium Last?
    A. For example, many newer Lexus’ and Toyota models carry an ultra long-life Iridium plug variation (.7mm with platinum tipped ground) that is capable of up to 120,000 miles of service. DENSO Iridium Power plugs, with their .4mm center electrode, have been developed for performance applications. Because gradual wear will “round-off” firing points over time, the concentrated firing power and voltage requirement benefits will be reduced. For this reason, DENSO advises replacement after 30,000 miles.
    Q6. How long should my spark plugs last?
    A6. That is dependant on the application and condition of the engine. High revving engines, driven hard, (eg motorcycles) will wear plugs much more quickly than a large engined car which is used for cruising. Standard copper plugs usually have an estimated service life of 10,000 to 20,000 miles depending upon design and application, Denso recommend changing their Iridium Power plugs before the maximum 30,000 miles, NGK's Iridium IX may last up to 60,000 miles in a standard use car engine. Double platinum types may last 60,000 miles or more and some NGK and Denso OEM Iridium types may last up to 120,000 miles. The plugs optimum performance level is passed a long time before these intervals so we would recommend changing plugs regularly as a matter of course. An engine, ignition or carburation/injection fault or poor adjustment may cause premature wear and/or failure. Tuned engines, engines driven hard, poor quality fuel amongst other factors can all dramatically reduce service life.
    Common practice...
    Quote Originally Posted by scoobydoo View Post
    although by spec the iridium sparkies can last much longer, i change them every 20k kms. at my rate of riding nowadays, it'll probably take near 2 years to get there, even with touring. guess i'ld just have to use my butt-dyno to decide; maybe change after 1+ years or when don't like the feel anymore

    some riders take the sparkies out to check/clean (not all will check gap though), then put back and ride for another few k if sparkies still look ok.
    for me, i don't like to put sparkies back once they're taken out at 20k; if still good, keep as spare for emergency use, else throw. the wear on electrodes may be minor, but gasket (usually 2 soft metallic washers) may not seal as tight when "reused". at correct torque and tightening technique, the 2 washers are partially/sufficiently crushed to form a tight seal between the flat surface of the head and the spark plug housing (just above the threads). reusing and crushing the metallic washers a 2nd time may not achieve the desired sealing for optimal performance.
    我不喜欢漏气


    How to change?

    Most convenient… most motor-shops will sell their plugs with installation.
    DIY… see
    post #144 How to change spark plugs?
    or http://silverwing.org/cgi-bin/topic_...14325#pid14325

    Acknowledgement:
    Information is compiled from many articles in the Internet, including Denso and NGK manufacturers' websites
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 20-02-2014 at 08:50 AM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  13. #13
    scoobydoo
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    Default Bike Enhancements/Mods

    repost... in case they "flush" the pre-2009 posts

    estimated costs... only estimates and also depends on how much motortiam carrot you

    engine/performance related:
    + electric or air horn (life saving) ~$20 (DIY), $50 to >$120 (include fitting) depends on make/model
    + steel braided brake hose (more sensitive braking) easily to $500+ coz SW needs longer n more hoses (can customise)
    + PA2/Revtec/voltage stabiliser (preserve batt, smoother engine, better fc, etc) ~$99, check out advertisers board
    + grounding (preserve batt, smoother engine) ~$35, check out advertisers board
    + PA ignite (more torque) think is >$250, check out advertisers board
    + iridium spark plugs (more torque) ~$20 ea, cheaper if buy only plugs
    + spark plug wires (more torque)
    + rollers & multivar (low/high end performance) check out advertisers board
    + front fork suspensions (better road handling) ~$220 to change spring
    + rear shock absorbers (better road handling) ~$400 to $900 depends on make/model
    + after-market cruise control systems
    + tires... this one is necessity, not really considered mod
    + nitrogen gas for tires
    + ABS (anti-locking)... models sold in Europe comes with ABS
    + brake master cylinders/pumps
    + brake levers (more cosmetics)
    + brake disc rotors
    + brake pads
    + radiator protector (needs DIY)
    + air filters (e.g. K&N)
    + aftermarket end-can or full systems (exhausts) ~$900+
    + short wind shields
    + power commanders (tune fuel/air ratio) ~$680 (include dyno/mapping)

    lights/electricals:
    + hazard lights ~$15 to >$40 depends on type of switch/method
    + pilot lights ~$25 to >$40 depends on where fitted
    + secondary brake lights (some top-boxes already have) ~$30 to >$80 depends on what/where fitted
    + flashing brake lights lights ~$25 to >$50 depends on where fitted
    + flashing hazard lights when apply brakes ~$25 to >$50 depends on where fitted
    + reading light for front dashboard ~$35 to >$80 depends on where fitted
    + HID kit (brighter whiter headlights) ~$180 to >$400 depends on make/model
    + spot/fog lights (safety in the dark, illegal in sinkapor) ~$90 to >$200 depends on make/model
    + LED/neon lights (cosmetics) ~$45 to >$100 depends on type
    + blinkers/strobe lights (may be illegal) ~$25 to >$700 depends on make/model, check out advertisers board
    + 1-way or 2-way alarm systems (security) ~$120 to >$700 depends on make/model, check out advertisers board
    + voltmeter (monitor batt) ~$45 to >$70
    + speed-trap detector (illegal in sinkapor) no estimates available
    + long range 2-way radios (not walkie-talkies, need license)
    + rider-pillion communicator sets ~$170 to >$800 depends on make/model
    + sound/music when apply brakes ~$25 to >$100
    + stereo system (entertainment) ~really depends on what you put in
    + battery ~$70 to $170 (stock)
    + automatic signal canceler & controller
    + under seat LED lighting ~$20+ (DIY)

    bodyworks/utility:
    + side mirrors (for less vibrations or better cosmetics) ~$15 to >$$$ depends on type/design
    + balancers (less vibrations) ~$25 to >$50 for motovation
    + chain locks or disc lock or disc lock alarm (security) ~$25 to >$700 depends on make/model
    + hand grips (friction & comfort) ~$25 to >$100
    + top boxes ~$80 to >$400 depends on make/model
    + dashboard hooks ~$25 to >$80 depends on make/model
    + headlight protector (preserve headlight) ~$35
    + bigger/wider wind shield (more comfort) ~$220 to >$350+ (imports)
    + bike seat cover (comfort & design) ~$50 to >$100 depends on design/material
    + gel seat padding (under the cover)
    + IU cover/jacket (looks only) ~$12 to $20
    + Seng kwang IU bracket ~$80+ (depends on customisation)
    + respray paintwork ~$500 to >$1k depends on colours/design
    + air-brush artwork
    + cup holders
    + hand guards (protects hand at handgrips)
    + throttle rocker (relief stress/strain on wrist/hand to hold throttle) ~$4 (LAB)
    + GPS/mobile phone holder (our handle bar difficult to use ram mount)
    + camera holder (DIY or customise at sengkwang)
    + underseat boot electric release
    + rider back support


    + + sooooooo many
    hey bros... lets add in or update the prices
    please... please dun get the WRONG idea that i have all of them hor


    big $$ question... does changing to aftermarket exhausts really help?

    Quote Originally Posted by Fazli View Post
    Get exhaust bro. Will improve on performance. I'm getting 21km/l. Aggressive riding too.
    Quote Originally Posted by Fazli View Post
    So far I haven't re-tune anything yet. Have yet to check my air filter and spark plugs. Intend to do the air filter and replace to iridium spark plugs and then go for synchro. With baffle, sound is just a little louder than stock. Still very quite just that the droning sound is slightly more obvious. Typical of a parallel twin cylinder engine. Maybe you want to meet up and hear for yourself.
    Quote Originally Posted by confusehaha View Post
    Bro btw after installing the full system, did u send ur bike for a re- tune? Or is not require?
    Tempting to replace buit just afraid I will miss out the smooth quite sound produce will stock exhaust.. Lol
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 05-11-2014 at 09:22 AM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  14. #14
    Trance Energy
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    Default

    Upz for this useful thread..

  15. #15
    scoobydoo
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    Default Variator, Roller Weights & Contra spring: Mechanics for Dummies!

    Variator, Roller Weights, Torque/Contra Spring, Clutch Springs

    As a summary from my understanding, the SW's transmission system may be subdivided into 3 main assemblies:
    (1) Drive Face assembly... mounted/driven by crank shaft
    (2) Driven Face assembly (including clutch)... (1) & (2) connected by drive belt
    (3) Final Transmission (aka final drive gears)... to turn rear wheel
    See below for how variator systems works.


    Primary functions of Drive Face assembly are to:
    + tow the drive belt that turns the Driven Face assembly
    + "change gears" by varying (opening and closing) the gap between the 2 drive faces that grip the belt... maybe that's how the name "variators" came about.

    Some common issues:
    - Worn belt such that variator faces could not grip it firmly, result in belt slippage
    - Worn variator faces (can see deep groves cut by the belt) causing ineffective grips on the belt, resulting in belt slippage, rough/uneven "gear" changing as belt movements impeded by the groves, etc.
    Note that a light grove is usually there at the outer section of the face plates due to normal usage, normal as long as cut is not deep.
    - Worn rollers (can see roller face no longer round with flat areas), resulting in uneven "gear" changing as rollers could not roll properly due to flat faces), worst case situation is stuck at high gear when roller(s) get stuck at its outer position and unable to drop back), etc.
    - Worn slides or u-clips (aka u-shoes) may impede the smooth movement of the ramp plate inwards and outwards of the assembly when pushed by the rollers.
    - Motor oil leak due to damaged/worn oil seal/o-ring... belt slippage, clutch slippage (oil carried from front to rear by the oily belt), may cause clutch pads to wear/overheat due to prolonged slippage, etc.
    - Dirt from dirty transmission may cause damage (e.g. scratches, premature wearing, etc) to variator faces and/or rollers, etc.


    Primary functions of Driven Face assembly (including clutch) are to:
    + engage and disengage the "gears"... controlled by the clutch assembly
    + return "gears" to lower level... workings of torque (also called contra) spring
    + turn the final drive gears which turns the rear wheel

    Some common issues:
    - Worn clutch pads, resulting in clutch slippage and may cause damage to clutch bell when peg body comes into contact with bell.
    - Dirty or oily stained clutch pads or clutch bell results in clutch slippage. Larger dirt substances may damage the clutch bell by scarring the contact surfaces.
    - Dirt inside the "pivots" where the clutch pegs turn obstructs smooth in/out movements of the 5 clutch pegs, resulting in slippage due to improper/uneven clutch grips on the bell, e.g. loss of grip or not all pegs gripping the bell evenly.
    - Weak clutch springs may not return the clutch pegs sufficiently to their disengaged positions at lower rpms (e.g. at idling), causing unintended engagement or contact between pegs and bell (bad for pads due to heat from contact and unnecessary wearing). Similar effects when 1 or more springs are broken.
    - Similar to drive face assembly, worn/scarred face plates are usually caused by the belt cutting groves on the plates' faces.
    Light grove is also there at the outer section of the face plates due to normal usage, normal as long as cut is not deep.
    - A weakened torque spring may not deliver enough push to close the variator plates at desired "rate", resulting is insufficient or slow "drop gear" action.
    A good example could be when riding up shears bridge from ECP towards west at say 70+km/h (abt 4+krpm). With a good torque spring, rider can lower throttle, variator drops gear instantaneously (spring exerts force to press driven face plates together, forcing belt to move outwards once tension from front is eased), increase throttle for more pull to ride up the slope. If torque spring is weak, it takes a longer time to drop gear as bike needs to slow down sufficiently to achieve lower rpm before the driven face plates closes to push the belt outwards.
    - A worn belt is bad as it will cut the faces of both drive and driven variator plates. Center of belt is reinforced by some fibre thingy and when the rubbery compound wears out, this reinforcement element starts to cut the variator plates.
    - Results of a broken belt is needless to explain, no drive. Worse, the snapping/whipping motion of the belt is likely to case damage to the transmission case and maybe even the variators inside.


    Primary function of Final Transmission (aka final drive gears)
    is to convert the energy from transmission to turn the rear wheel. It is very important that the gears are properly lubricated.
    Do note that Honda recommended 10w40 motor oil instead of the normal gear oil for the SW, unlike other scooters.


    - - - -

    See also tech corner post #24 "Normal Gear Oil For Final Transmission? Not Recommended!" for more info.

    - - - -

    [quote=scoobydoo;5106038]someone posted a very good writeup on variator, rollers weights and contra spring (even though its at aprilla forum). recommended readings
    http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=8960

    this post i found from another forum is particularly useful to newcomers to the CVT scooter world.

    reading the post, you can:
    • learn about how the transmission system works - changing from lower to higher gears
    • names of the various parts (e.g. belt, rollers, variator, sliders or u-clips, torque or contra spring, etc) and their functions




    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-tdVY6Kone4
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9FmhS...eature=related
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZilL7...eature=related

    -------------------------------------
    Variator, roller weights and contra spring mechanics for dummies! Learn how it works

    http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=8960

    "duplicating" his post here in case its lost

    OK, another issue I see asked a lot is about different roller weights, different variators, and different contra springs. So I am going to attempt to put it out in simple terms. I drew these pictures real quick, and they are not to scale, but they should work and give you a good idea.

    The truth of the matter is, A new variator, spring, and weights WILL NOT increase your vehicles over all power!!!

    What it does do is adjust your rate of acceleration, and at what RPM your motor runs at while it is accelerating, and at what speed the motor is reving when you reach the highest gear ratio available.

    Now having said both of those things, the key is to have your motor running at about 8000 - 8500 rpm's consistantly while accelerating. This is where your greatest horsepower is generated. If you are accelerating at 5000 rpm's or 9500 rpm's, this will decrease your acceleration because your horsepower is not at it's peak.

    This is achieved through trial and error. Changing your contra spring, and then trying different roller weights is how this is achieved.

    In order for you to understand which way you need to go with weights and springs, you must first understand how the entire drive train works.

    Lets start with the front pully of the variator. This is where your roller weights and ramp plate are located.


    Now as the rpm's of the motor increase, the centrifugal force pushes the roller weights out (Number 1 in picture).

    The roller weights push out and onto the angle plates surface. This causes the rear half of the pully to move toward the front half of the pully (Number 2 in Picture).

    When the rear half of the pully pushes to the front pulley, it forces the belt out to a higher gear ratio. (Number 3 in picture).


    If you are thinking about getting a new variator, Let me first start by telling you that it will probably not have any effect on your over all top speed. What it will do is give you a more steady acceleration. The distance that the rear half of the pully can travels pretty much remains the same. Meaning that it will only push the belt out as far as the stock variator will which results in the same high gear ratio as the stock variator. The key difference between the stock and performance variators is the angle on which the roller weights travel and the angle on the angle plate in the rear of the variator. This will only help give you a smoother - more constant acceleration.

    Now as for the different weights for the rollers. It is really rather simple. The heavier the weight, the more force will be applied to the angle plate forcing the rear pully forward faster. If the roller weights are too heavy, it will force the gear into too high of a gear too fast.

    I like to use a 10 speed bicycle as a comparrison. From a dead start, if you are in 10th gear, it is very difficult to get going. But if you are in first gear, it is very easy to get moving. the same principle applies here. You want the weights to keep you in first gear, and as the rpm's increase, it will gradually step the gears up untill it reaches tenth gear.

    If your roller weights are too light, then there will not be enough force to push the ramp plate out and the rear half forward. This will result in good acceleration, but a low top end.

    This is what the ratio looks like in low gear. You will see that the front pully is small, and the rear pully is large. This is like first gear of the 10 speed bike:


    This is what the gear ratio looks like when the roller weights are pushed out and the rear half of the pully is forward. The belt is pushed out to a higher ration. This is like tenth gear on the bicycle:


    Contra Spring = Torque Spring
    Quote Originally Posted by Fusionjaz View Post
    Torque spring is a spring that is pressing on the rear variatior. Installing a higher tension spring will increase the overall torque curve. You will feel it when the scoot is going up slope (Benjamin Shears bridge). You will have more torque to conquer up hill roads but lose out on top speed.
    Now the other factor in this equation is the rear pully. The rear pully has a spring holding it together. This is your contra spring.

    The front half of the pully is also torque controlled. There are angled grooves that the pully travels on. As torque is applied, this limits the belt from traveling in too quickly. Likewise, as you go up a hill and torque is applied to the pully, it is supposed to force the pully together giving you a lower gear ratio.

    This is what the rear pully looks like at low rpm's:


    This is what the rear pully looks like at high rpm's:


    If your roller weights are giving you good acceleration, and a good top end, but when you approach a small hill the scooter slows drastically, this may be caused by having too light of a contra spring. The contra spring helps push the rear pully back together when torque is applied to the rear pully.

    Also if you are running good at say 50MPH, and you slow down to say 35MPH. If you try to accelerate, and you have hardly any acceleration, this can also be caused by having too light of a contra spring. When you slow down, the spring is supposed to push the rear pully together into a lower gear ratio. If the spring isn't strong enough, the pully will remain in a high gear, and then when you try to accelerate, there isn't enough power to push you because you are in too high of a gear.

    On the other hand, if your spring is too strong, then the roller weights may not be heavy enough to force the belt out all the way and into it's highest gear ratio.

    If you go with a heavier contra spring, you may need to go to a slightly higher roller weight. Likewise, if you go to a lower spring, you may need to go to a lighter weight.

    There is a very fine balance that you must achieve between the contra spring and your roller weights. This is only accomplished through trial and error.

    --------------------------------

    Acknowledgement:
    Information is compiled from many articles in the Internet, including Youtube.com and Aprilia Forum
    some pics from Fusionjaz
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 05-04-2012 at 03:24 PM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  16. #16
    SW9000
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    Default About SW Front Suspension

    In General:
    1. Fork oil level is measured when the fork is compressed fully without the spring inside. When compressed, the fork tube exposed should be about 9cm from top of fork to the rubber dust cover. *Take note that some fork tubes might get stuck at the lowest point when fully compressed. The mech should be able to extend it back with a slight knock.
    The actual oil measurement (amount of air) is from the top of the fork opening to the level of the oil inside the fork.
    http://66.163.168.225/babelfish/tran...%26Itemid%3d44
    2. If there is no manual available, it is sometimes normal for a mech to set the oil up to the rubber dust cover.

    Stock Front Suspension:
    1. 10cm of air
    2. or 302mm of fork oil.
    3. Honda Fork Oil SAE10 (Approx. viscosity 32)
    Leave this setting alone if you like your fork to be a soft and don't play with corners that much. Bike will be a bit bouncy on uneven roads and corners.

    Some Minor Improvements to Stock Setting:
    1. Use SAE 15 fork oils (viscosity in the range of 45 +/-) to increase the dampings - e.g. Maxima Fork Oil 15wt & Silkolene Pro RSF 10wt Fully Synthetic.
    ** The bike will be more stable and calm but can feel more of the uneven roads and the bumps are harder.
    http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/lowspeed.htm
    ** SAE 20wt oils may be too thick for SW. Bike handling will feel heavy but some people may still like it that way.
    2. Decrease the amount of air in the fork (add more oil) - 9cm air for better handling and 8cm if you like it harder. Try not to go below 8cm becos the bike will feel rough (vibrations) and the fork seal might burst under extreme condition.
    3. Or do what the Italians do... turn the spring upside down to further minimise vibration.

    Major Improvement:
    Replace with a Hyperpro Fork Spring (approx. $240 without installation or $260 with installation from Motoworld). Bike will be more stable into corners though handling will feel a bit stiff. You can use the 20wt fork oil that comes with it or use a lighter 15wt oil to minimise the bumps.

    The above write-up is only for sharing.
    Feel free to input additional knowledge to improve this almost perfect bike.
    Additional link for suspension knowledge below:
    http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Suspension.html
    Last edited by SW9000; 30-12-2011 at 10:49 AM.
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    2018

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  17. #17
    scoobydoo
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    Default SAE Engine Oil vs. Gear Oil Viscosity

    my understanding of multi-grade oils tells me that the 6 Winter-grades (from 0W to 25W) makes no difference in tropical countries like Singapore and Malaysia where temperatures has never fall below 20 degrees.
    can i say that AZO, ASL and ATM oils delivers the same performance in hot tropical countries, since they are of the same 30 weight?

    another thing... other than the motorcycle oil MCF, is the signature series oil suitable for use in a motorcycle with a stand-alone clutch assembly outside the engine (i.e. no contact with engine oil at all). i often run the bike at >7000 rpm for prolonged hours during long distanced interstate touring in peninsula Malaysia.
    To answer in short:

    1. AZO, ASL & ATM have different Kinematic Viscosity at 40°C. As 90% of engine wear occurs during the start-up period, ideally we should try to minimise such wear by choosing one with lowest Kinematic Viscosity (which is AZO in this case).

    2. Yes. No doubt signature series will work (just like any other oil). However, my recommendation is against such practice (even for stand-alone clutch assembly). For optimum performance & protection, you should go for dedicated motorcycle oil.

    Hope it helps. Thanks.
    Question:
    Difference Between Car and Motorcycle Oils
    What is the difference from motorcycle oil than car oil?
    -- Matt Coffman, Attica, NY
    Answer:
    Motorcycle oils and passenger car oils are very similar, with the exception of a couple of areas that are key to motorcycle operation. The first area concerns common sumps, or the use of motor oil, to lubricate and cool the transmission. As you know, in a passenger car the transmission is lubricated by an ATF fluid, which has frictional properties required for transmission operation. In a motorcycle, where the transmission may be lubricated by the engine oil, an engine oil that does not have the same level of friction modification (for fuel economy) of a typical passenger car engine oil will provide better transmission performance in terms of transmission lock-up and slippage. So motorcycle engine oil does not contain the friction modifiers of a passenger car engine oil. The second area of concern for motorcycle engine oils is that they tend to shear (breakdown viscosity) more quickly than a typical passenger car. Mobil 1 motorcycle oils are designed to provide exceptional protection against viscosity loss.

    Mobil
    http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...cycle_Oil.aspx
    More than you ever want to know about engine oil
    http://micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

    Lots of articles about engine oil... good read
    http://members.themotoroilevaluator....dex.php?id=153



    http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/index....d=48&Itemid=55

    Last edited by scoobydoo; 18-11-2011 at 09:25 AM.
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    Trips:
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  18. #18
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    Default Using a Vacuum Guage or Carb Tuner?

    Vacuum gauges (also known as carb tuners) are possibly one of the most useful diagnostic tool in engine diagnosis. They are used to measure the manifold pressure. The vacuum gauge reads in either millimeters of mercury (mm Hg) or inches of mercury (in Hg). Those measurements mean the vacuum is strong enough to support a column of mercury in a tube to a height of so many millimeters or inches. 0 in Hg is equal to atmospheric pressure. A fully loaded engine at wide-open throttle will reach close to this reading. 30 in Hg is referred to as a perfect vacuum. It is a point where there is no pressure at all. It is a theoretical number because it is impossible to achieve. An engine decelerating on closed throttle will reach close to this reading.

    Healthy engines will create more vacuum in their inlet manifolds than worn engines. So a pressure comparison between a known healthy reading and the engine you are testing can assist in determining the state of wear of the engine. Apart from diagnostics, vacuum gauges are also used for tuning or synchronizing the carbs (also applicable to efi bodies), thus the name carb tuners.
    On most occasions, turning the mixture screw in (clockwise) leans the mixture, while counterclockwise (out) enriches the mixture. The goal of adjusting the idle-mixture screws is to achieve the highest possible idle vacuum at a set idle speed. If the idle speed increases after you adjust the idle-mixture screws (which is likely), be sure to adjust the idle speed back to the base speed. This is important because a higher idle speed will increase the vacuum reading. Maintaining a standard idle speed will make it easier to evaluate changes to the idle-mixture screws.
    simple analogue vacuum gauge


    multi-column carb tuner



    Using Vacuum Gauges to Diagnose Engine Health

    Where the Vacuum Comes From?

    On the intake system of a petrol internal combustion engine there exists a throttle valve. It doesn’t matter if it’s an old carby engine or a fuel injected engine, in both cases power is limited by closing off the airflow. (It’s not for nothing that the valve is known as a ‘throttle’ – when less than fully open, it’s literally chocking off the airflow!)

    When the engine is working at less than wide-open throttle, vacuum – or a pressure lower than atmospheric – occurs after the throttle.

    So when it’s sitting there idling, the engine is trying to draw in as much air as you’d expect from a big air pump, but the nearly closed throttle is actually restricting the flow to just a trickle. As a result, after the throttle there exists a vacuum. Think about it for a moment and you can see that the better the air pump (ie engine) is working, the higher will be the vacuum reading. Or, to put it another way, if the pistons rings are leaking badly, the engine will be trying to draw in less air than it should – so the vacuum won’t be as strong.

    The use of a vacuum gauge plumbed into the intake system after the throttle can therefore give a guide to the engine’s mechanical health. Furthermore, the way the needle moves on the gauge can tell you additional information – especially when the throttle of the running engine is rapidly opened and closed. In fact, a vacuum gauge can give you information about problems such as:

    * Rings
    * Valves
    * Leaking intake manifold gaskets
    * Exhaust blockages
    * Wrong ignition timing
    * Valve timing
    Normal: steady reading of 17-22 when engine at idling


    Normal: when throttle is opened and closed rapidly, needle falls to 2 and swings back to 24 or 25, falling back to normal idle reading... indicates rings and valves are ok


    video clips
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?gl=GB&h...2-96Ik0&fmt=18
    http://www.fz6-forum.com/forum/fz6-t...nch-movie.html

    References:
    http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Using...3/article.html
    http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm
    http://www.international-auto.com/fi...uum-gauges.cfm
    http://books.google.com.sg/books?id=...+EFI#PPA168,M2
    http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/ho...638/index.html
    http://www.tuningmadeeasy.com/tuning...e-wonder-tool/
    http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...acuumLeaks.htm
    http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/in.../Vacuum_Tuning


    Acknowledgement:
    Information is compiled from many articles in the Internet, including Morgan Carbtune's website
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 25-04-2012 at 02:12 PM.
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    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
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  19. #19
    scoobydoo
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    Default Air Screw Synchronisation

    see the attached guide... what you need:
    * 2 vacuum gauges; 1 also can, take reading of 1 and adjust the other to that same reading... but very leh-chay alternatively, can use dedicated instruments such as Carb Tune Pro
    * rubber hoses (to connect from manifold to gauges)
    * screw drivers
    * airy working space,
    (we don't need external petrol dripper coz engine uses fuel pump)



    the attached "vacuum gauge.pdf" illustrates how such vacuum gauges can be used to test and tune the engines

    so where are the screws?
    there're 3 screws visible (see pic) after you remove the black plastic top cover, the one on its own and most towards the front is the idle "knob".



    have personally tried some different settings (see attached):
    (a) right & left 2.0 turns... somewhat sluggish response, FC about 22+km/L
    (b) right 1.8 turns, left 1.65 turns (staggering*)... most responsive, FC near 25km/L
    (c) right & left 1.75 turns... responsive, FC about 25+km/L

    * heard from some mechs that some riders purposely stagger their setting so as to get a more "rugged" response. in theory, this may not be good for the engine "workload" between the 2 cylinders are uneven; one richer/leaner than the other.

    Steps

    * best time to do the tweak is after a ride, when the engine is warmed up.
    * stop engine and park bike on main stand at a well ventilated space.
    * lift seat and remove the black seat under cover.
    * before you do anything, take note of existing setting (how many turns) by turning the screw in (clockwise) slowly while counting the turns; factory setting is usually around 2 turns.
    * connect the hoses of the vacuum gauges (or balancer) as shown in the manual (see attached).
    * select a primary screw for referencing (say left screw for illustration). always work on 1 air-screw at a time.
    * close (clockwise) the primary air-screw fully and make a marking at the "zero" point (see pic below).
    * turn the air-screw out (anti-clockwise) to the desired setting, say 1.75 turns.
    * repeat the same for the second air-screw; use the same setting as the primary air-screw.
    * note the settings: e.g. Left 1.75 / Right 1.75.
    * start engine and let it run at idle till fan starts.
    * balance second air-screw to same level as primary air-screw (reference).
    * adjust the idle rpm to desired level (around 1.2k); idle rpm will run when air-screw settings are changed.
    * rev the engine a little and let it idle again.
    * check gauge levels for both sides. if out, balance again. if same, balancing done.
    * stop engine and let it cool a little.
    * put back the original vacuum hose connections and the cover... job done

    note: strongly suggest you make a red mark (can use normal perm marker) at the fully closed position for referencing


    sticking to option (c) for the time being, good FC & reasonable response from the engine


    Quote Originally Posted by SW9000 View Post
    Ahh... not so easy to learn and set to the optimum.
    I realised that the Honda manual says 'Air Screw', which means it's different from mixture screw:
    1. Air screw - turn out (anti-clockwise) = lean mixture.
    2. Mixture screw - turn out (anti-clockwise) = rich mixture.

    Brain now got stuck thinking how to tune. I can either:
    Option1.
    1. Leave both screws at 2 turns out and adjust from there. *That was the stock number of turns I got when I 1st meddle with them at 5k. It is also my current setting. Told K & T Ah Jin to keep it near 2 turns during all the tuning.
    FC has been 25-26km/L (90-100km/h). Bike very smooth all the way to 130km/h (rpm 7) after that a bit strain. Not sure if the bike is like that (hey, it's only a 400cc) or the setting is a bit lean (since most SW are getting 23-25).
    2. I might try 1.75 turns (or even 1.5) and see if got power increase since the mixture would be richer?
    3. If no improvement in performance, then I'll fall back to my current setting.

    Option2.
    1. Adjust 1 screw to the highest reading it can sustain at steady state. ** Some say the highest steady level is the best air/fuel mix.
    2. Adjust the other screw to match.
    Ehh... This method I got no review. So not sure how true or accurate the adjustment will be.

    Anyway, just ordered a Morgan Carbtune Pro to play with. Should be arriving in 1-2 weeks.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 12-04-2012 at 04:20 PM. Reason: update pic & PDF file
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
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  20. #20
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    Default Tyre Markings

    Tyre Markings

    our Silverwing uses tyres with specs: front 120/80 14M/C 58S, rear 150/70 13M/C 64S... and these specs are found on the tyres

    ever wonder what they mean?

    p/s: info is from various Internet sources
    http://www.irc-tire.com/mce/
    http://www.motorcycle-tyres.com/tyremarkings.html
    http://www.pneus-online.co.uk/load-a...es-advice.html
    http://www.tst-tyres.co.uk/info.htm
    etc... etc... etc...

    e.g. 120/80 14M/C 58S
    120 = nominal section width of tyre in millimeters
    /80 = ratio of height as % of width is 80%
    14 = wheel/rim diameter is 14 inches
    M/C = tyre construction
    58 = maximum load 218Kg
    S = speed index, max. speed 180 km/h

    e.g. 150/70 13M/C 64S
    150 = nominal section width of tyre in millimeters
    /70 = ratio of height as % of width is 70%
    13 = wheel/rim diameter is 13 inches
    M/C = tyre construction
    64 = maximum load 280Kg
    S = speed index, max. speed 180 km/h

    FAQ: Is it OK to use a different size?
    First, lets compare tyres of differences specifications, e.g. smaller tyres.
    Michelin City Grip 120/70-14 140/60-13

    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tir...0r14-120-70r14

    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tir...0r13-140-60r13

    Generally, slightly larger or smaller tyres may be used, but there will be some differences in performance and handling (safety) compared to the recommended or stock setups. Using tyres of different sizes also alters the braking dynamics of the bike, in areas such as force experienced by the brake callipers/assembly and balance of the bike, especially during e-braking.

    Some reasons to use larger (or smaller) tyres
    * Calibration ... to get "real" speed
    Most bikes/cars have their speedometer/odometer calibrated according to the size of their respective tyre sizes. Somehow, speedometer readings are usually slightly higher then the actual travelling speeds. e.g. SW speedo is around 4-8km/h faster, depending on speed ranges.
    From the tables above, we can see that smaller tyres register faster speeds as they need to rotate more turns to travel the same distance.
    In such cases, using a larger tyre may help reduce the difference between real and speedo speeds, provided the tyre can fit the bike/car.
    * Larger ... fuel economy on long haul/leg travelling
    Larger tyres (bigger circumference) needs less turns to travel a specific distance as compared to smaller one. This allows the bike/car to travel at lower rpms and possibly some fuel savings over long stretches of travelling on highways.
    * Smaller ... fuel economy for start-stop city use
    Comparing with larger tyres, smaller tyres (smaller radius) needs less torque to move the bike/car, especially during pickups. This helps to reduce unburn fuel during accelerations which in turn leads to fuel savings, more evident for city travellers.

    Age of Tyre
    Apart from fitting & load/speed specs, age of tyre is also a very important thing to note.
    Tyres have a high percentage of natural rubber in their makeup which is biodegradable and therefore, have a shelf life. A typical lifespan tyre is about 4 years (some manufacturers claim theirs is 5 years). Once it reached their lifespan, rubber would have started to harden & more prone to crack when running under hot weather. Or at the very least not grip as effectively as when it was new. So to be on the safe side, do consider changing your tyre once it’s expired irregardless if the threads are still good. Even if tyre is not used, the rubber compound of tyre looses its elasticity (in about 2 years if stowed properly) and can also harden or crack.

    The date of manufacture is usually indicated on one side of tyre in week-week-year-year format.
    e.g. 2106 means tyre was manufactured on week 21 of 2006 (52 weeks a year). suppose today is week 24 of 2008, tyre would be more than 2 years old and you may wanna ask for a "younger" one

    The U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) requires that Tire Identification Code be a combination of eleven or twelve letters and numbers that identify the manufacturing location, tire size, manufacturer's code, and week and year the tire was manufactured.

    Today, the week and year the tire was manufactured is contained in the last four digits of the serial number, with the 2 digits used to identify the week a tire was manufactured immediately preceding the 2 digits used to identify the year.



    1. Means tyere meets or exceeds Departement of Transportation safety standards
    2. Manufacturer and Plant Code Number (Assigned by DOT)
    3. Tyre Size Code Number
    4. Group of symbols determined by manufacturer
    5. Week of manufacture


    Pirelli Tyre Markings
    http://www.pirelli.com/tyre/sg/en/ca...out_tyres.html


    DOT = (Department Of Transportation) is a legal marking required in many countries in order to sell the tyres. DOT means the tyres meet or exceed the Department of Transportation’s safety standards.
    93 = Manufacturer and Plant Code Number (Assigned by DOT)
    NU = Tyre Size Code Number
    K653 = Group of Optional Symbols for the Manufacturer ( To identify the brand or other significant characteristics of the tyre)
    4308 = Date of manufacture in (Week Week Year Year format); i.e. week 43 of year 2008




    acknowledgement:
    information extracted from the various websites mentioned above
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 20-08-2014 at 03:59 PM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  21. #21
    scoobydoo
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    Default Changing Rear Tyre

    changing your rear tires? check this out... in case its the mechanic's first time changing for Silver Wing

    step by step guide to changing the rear tyre...
    https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...YzkzYTBi&hl=en

    acknowledgement:
    this guide is adopted from SWing Forum (US) http://silverwing.org/cgi-bin/forum_show.pl

    additional info...

    as the exhaust needs to be removed during the rear tyre-change process, make sure the mechanic mount it back the correct position at the "top bracket". otherwise, the exhaust will be outwards pointing at an angle instead of being flushed with the fore-n-aft of the bike.

    Quote Originally Posted by TitanicLexus View Post
    Went to adjust back my SW exhaust, see the picture, the correct position of mounting our SW exhaust;



    It should mount at back not infront (arrow position) like S4 or other class 2 bike mounting ..... sigh

    Caution

    Remember to ride with extra care over the first few hundred km, cos new tyres are very slippery and need some breaking in; lots of anecdotal evidence are available to support this caution.
    Common theory is that new tyres are soaked with mold release agents (that's why they're usually oily and shiny) but that's something the manufacturers' deny.

    The slippery surface on a new tyre is caused by 2 main reasons.
    ~When new, a tyre has a very smooth surface & in order to obtain maximum grip, the smooth surface needs to be 'scrubbed in'.
    ~Some manufacturers use 'releasing agents' when they make the tyres. These 'releasing agents' contain 'anti-ageing preservatives' which help to stop a tyre degrading whilst in storage. Releasing agents need to be scrubbed from a new tyres surface.
    http://www.whitedogbikes.com/Motorcy...nformation.htm
    this rider in the clip would tell you lots...
    http://www.visordown.com/snippets/ne...off/13360.html


    believe it or not... better be safe than to be sorry
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 29-03-2012 at 04:52 PM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
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  22. #22
    SW9000
    Have Gun Will Travel
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    Default System recheck switching on your bike

    For info.
    If you ever encounter system recheck, time to take a look at the batteries.

    http://www.silverwing.org/cgi-bin/to...ow.pl?tid=1738
    2017
    11 - 25 Nov - 15D, Taiwan - Fly and Scoot
    2018

    7 - 15 Apr - 9D, Phuket and Hatyai Songkran
    17 Nov to 2 Dec - 16D, North East Thailand (Issan)
    2019
    30 Mar to 7 Apr - 9D Korea/Jeju Fly and Ride
    8 - 24 Nov - 16D, Mae Hong Son
    http://thehouseofdaviz.blogspot.sg/

  23. #23
    scoobydoo
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    Default normal gear oil for final transmission? NO!!!

    the question of whether to use motor oil (aka engine oil) or gear oil for the final transmission/drive has been asked in many SW forums, including overseas ones.

    the SW's service manual (not the owners' manual that comes with the bike) recommended 10w40 motor oil for final drive/reduction oil, something that is rather unusual to most mechanics/motortiams when you go for servicing. see below:


    nevertheless, there're also SW running on the usual #w70~90 gear oils but have yet to encounter problem with their gears yet... my guess is they haven't gone on long touring trips yet. local riding or "transport" riding is very different from touring trips which stress the gears over prolonged periods. running the SW at high speeds (e.g. 130km/h) over hundreds of km is definitely different from local riding.
    but its still up to individual owners to decide

    according to a SWinger's post (on US forum http://www.silverwing600.com/t1827-f...rive+oil#15521), his reasons for using gear oil are:
    * viscosity of 75w90 gear oil and 10w30 motor oil are both approximately the same,
    * the additives in gear oil are more suitable for gears.
    well, that's what he claim... but does he know the SW better than those who designed it?
    Motoroil has additives that keep wear and combustion particles in suspension to help prevent deposits (not a good thing for gears) and get them to the filter. They also have some additives which harm thrust washers in gear drives. ( I can't find that reference again)

    Gear oil have a different additive package that is more conducive to the high pressure of meshing gears. they have EP additives to help it cling to gears when they mesh and not get squeezed out. Good thing.
    personally, i strongly recommend to follow the honda SW service manual by using 10w40 4T motor oil (or w50 if using the brand's w40 is much less viscous) instead of gear oil for your final transmission/drive.

    few questions to ponder about...
    * if motor and gear oils are interchangeable as long as viscosity are similar, then why need to separate motor oil and gear oil?
    * if gear oil is more suitable due to additives, why did honda specify the use of 10w40 motor oil?

    why not to follow the manual and use 10w40 motor oil?
    having paid to learn my lesson, i now do the 3-in-1 when doing my regular "5k kiasu 10w40 motor oil servicing", or after every long tour trips. i.e. change engine oil, oil filter and final transmission/drive oil altogether using 3 bottles of motor oil; using maxima extra 10w40 full synthetic oil as a matter of personal preference.
    engine bay & filter needs abt 2.2L, drive bay needs 220~330ml, use some for "flushing" the bays and there'll be just a little left, which sometimes i don't bother to bring home.

    symptoms of worn gears/bearings:
    you can hear a rough or "grinding" noise from the rear drive area when bike is idling on main stand. rough noise disappears when you rotate the rear tire in the moving forward direction but becomes more audible when rotated in the reverse direction. throttle up and you can't hear a thing except the normal engine/exhaust and transmission noise
    basically, something is loose or not meshing properly inside and the affected parts vibrates at a relatively lower frequency when bike is idling, causing the "garak garak" sound. sound is gone when drive shaft rotates (together with rear tire). maybe the movements of parts inside dampened the vibration, maybe vibration frequency increases and blends into the other noises, can't be sure.

    changed: rear drive shaft, drive shaft lunar plate, 3x bearings, o-rings, oil seals, 10w40 4T oil... about $432 excluding workmanship

    the stuffs... , lunar plate...



    although there's no concrete proof that the gear shaft & bearings are "damaged" by the use of heavier oil, the breakdown just few weeks after changing to an 80w90 gear oil (premium brand) is a "coincidence" that cannot be neglected.
    in case you wonder if my SW is the only one that encountered this problem, no! there're other SWinger that had to spend >500 to get their final transmission assembly repaired after touring with gear oil.

    just sharing my pain so that other SWingers need not go through the same
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 19-07-2012 at 01:12 PM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  24. #24
    scoobydoo
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    Default Symbols for Spark Plugs

    Symbols for Spark Plugs

    Honda Silverwing FJS 400 (Euro) owner's manual indicated that we can use the following spark plugs:
    Denso:U22FER-9, U24FER-9
    NGK: CR7EH-9,CR8EH-9

    ever wonder what these symbols mean?

    e.g. Denso U24FER-9
    U = thread size 10mm, hex size 16mm
    24 = heat rating 24 (9 hottest, 37 coldest)
    FE = half thread 19mm (3/4" total reach)
    R = resister type
    9 = 0.9mm gap
    thus, the U22FER-9 would be a relatively hotter plug
    http://www.globaldenso.com/en/produc...pec/index.html
    http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/t...l/densojpg.htm
    Iridium equivalent = IUH-24 or IUH-24D (not stated in manual but cross referenced)

    e.g. NGK CR8EH-9
    C = 10mm, hex size 16mm or 5/8"
    R = resister type
    8 = heat rating 8 (2 hottest, 11 coldest)
    EH = partial thread 19mm (3/4" total reach), 12.7mm (1/2" total reach)
    9 = 0.9mm gap
    thus, the CR7EH-9 would be a relatively hotter plug
    http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...tnumberkey.pdf
    http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/ngkjpg.htm
    Iridium equivalent = CR8EHIX-9 (not stated in manual but cross referenced)



    acknowledgement:
    information extracted from Denso, NGK and Spark plugs UK websites
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 16-06-2011 at 11:16 PM.
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  25. #25
    merz65
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    Default

    time for new battey ..

  26. #26
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    Default Maintenance Schedule & FAQ

    Maintenance Schedule for Silver Wing
    (from FJS400 owners manual)




    My personal (a matter of personal preference) servicing/wear-n-tear replacement pattern:
    (during the times when my FJS was still regularly used)
    ~ note that prices will depend a lot on which workshop you go, especially for labour services

    Every 5k km:
    * change fully synthetic 10w40 EO, 3 bottles of 1L each
    . . engine bay requires 2L, and approx 2.2+L if changing oil filter
    . . remaining 0.7+L to be used for final drive
    . . price range depends on brand/model of EO, around $24 per bottle
    * change final drive oil (oil from 3rd can of EO)
    * change oil filter
    . . price range from $18 to $25 depending on stock or aftermarket filters

    Every 10k km:
    ~ in addition to 5k km servicing
    * check/clean transmission assembly (rollers, belt, CVT plates, etc)
    * check/clean clutch assembly (clutch pegs, bell, etc)
    * check/tighten spark plugs (DIY)
    * clean air filter
    . . i'm using K&N so a good "blow job" is enough unless returning from tour

    Every 20k km:
    ~ in addition to 5k km servicing
    * change 3-in-1 replacement (rollers, belt & u-clips set)
    . . some riders change later (or 3 items at different intervals) but i lazy to monitor, "3-in-1" easier to remember
    . . price range from $220 to $250 depending workshop (include labour)
    * wash air filter
    . . K&N air filters to be maintained/washed with specific solvents
    * change spark plugs (denso iridium IUH-24)
    . . price range from $15 to $25 depending workshop or DIY (buy from LAB)
    * check/synchronise air-screw
    . . i usually DIY, some workshops charge about $30-$40 for service

    Every 25k km:
    ~ approx 1 year due to daily "E-W touring" and overseas tour trips
    ~ in addition to 5k km servicing
    * change tyres (both front & rear)
    . . or change when worn, or after use for 1 year
    . . usually use Pirelli Diablo Scoot, price range from $180 to $220 depending on workshop
    * check/change wheel bearings if worn
    * drain/change brake oil
    * change coolant
    . . usually use "Engine Ice", price around $60 depending on workshop

    note:
    since my bike became a "weekend bike", maintenance schedule also became another story
    Added lately ...
    Note: the below price estimates exclude labour/workmanship costs...
    Quote Originally Posted by SW9000 View Post
    Below are estimates. Other than belt and rollers that are specifics for scooters, the rest are similar to other bikes that should be serviced at your own discretion.

    EO = 5k. 2 litres about $46.
    Oil filter = 10k. $15. Alternated EO change.
    Transmission Oil = 10k. Alternative EO change, together with oil filter. * Use left over EO from oil filter/EO change.
    Spark plugs = 15k of more. Normal plugs at $8 or Iridium at $18++.
    Air filter = 20k. Stock must replace ($40), K & N can re-use ($90).

    Belt = 24k. $130++
    Rollers = 48k. $40++
    U-clip = 48k. $8++
    Quote Originally Posted by ahjm87 View Post
    Hi All,

    I am thinking of upgrading to 2nd hand Silverwing 400. But i am not sure whether would i spend more on servicing,etc. can someone share with me like the things to change during servicing and how much it cost? And how frequent it need to change.
    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - - - - -

    FAQ posts below are transferred from <Archive>
    posted by lokeks on 03-10-2006 06:56 AM ... as below


    Silverwing all model

    General FAQ

    Q: wat is the power difference between the 600 n 400 sw?
    A: If you would have downloaded the manual or been to the website of HONDA, you would have know it is about 36[49]/7,000 and 28[38]/7,500 (kw[PS]/rpm).

    Q: wats the price for a 2rd hand 400/600 avg?
    A: Ask the bike shops/ seller . 2nd bike bikes depends on body/bike condition and supply/demand, too many factors to name.

    Q:is there a lot of vibration when criusing ard 100km/h?rpm range?
    A: which bike doesnt? Anyway, any vibration is very minor. In fact, for silverwing, it is a very smooth bike at all speed.

    Q: which shops recommended to get 2rd hand for 600 /400?
    A: Any shops have that them in the 1st place.

    Q: what r the problems to look out for 4 a 2rd hand?
    A: Ask the bike shops or owners. Else, you need to open up the scoot and inspect.
    SW is generally a very reliable bike.

    Q: having a hard time tinking either a 400 or 600 cuz i and my partner are heavy weighted.
    A: Maximun laden weight of SW is 180kg.

    ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++

    1. is there any special features for e lastest model compare to e previous? i heard theres a switch to turn on power to overtake...
    Lately i saw the new version 06' model (Euro), there is 2 pilot light beside the head light. But no more 'Turbo' switch which i think is not neccessary as the bike got 'power' liao, and also they don't come with hazard light which i think it is useful when needed.

    2. how much for a 1st hand if my age is 26yrs old?
    12.6k on the road with 3rd party fire & thife.pls note: Price will varies

    3. how much is e normal maintainance n full servicing (change belt etc..)?
    look at bro lokeks signature, consider low maintainances, belt price is almost on par or slightly higher than piaggio but last longer, 24K km change but riders hv tried even longer distance covered.

    4. are e spare parts readily available? where to get?
    Where else? FJT, ever success or chong aik. Now i think sparts parts should be no problem compare 1 yr ago.

    5. wats e downside for tis bike?
    Suspension so so onli, wind screen abit shaky during high speed, no hazard light, no wire mash to protect radiactor, petrol hungry, heavy in weight.

    6. wats e upside?
    reliable machine for light touring, 1 of the best scooter to me in 400cc range.

    ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++

    1)can the wing use a 160 tire instead of a 150 ?(width)

    2)can the rider butt rest be removed?

    3)how many belts r there?in the bike?

    4)even the 600 use single disc brake for the front?

    5)it use 2 litre engine oil and some trnsmission oil?

    6)the rear pillion grip and also mount the box?

    7)any news newer models coming?

    8)can e 600 hit 300km on a full tank including reserve?

    9)can e underseat carry two full face helments?

    1. yes
    2. yes
    3. 1
    4. yes
    5. no
    6. dunno wad u asking
    7. no
    8. no
    9. depends

    ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++

    1) Can a SW cruise at 90-120 without must prob?

    Ans: Yes,a silverwing can curise at 120km/hr without any problem,in fact its consider a touring scooter.SO 120km/hr or more for this scooter is definitely not a problem to this powerful scooter.

    2) How is the fuel consumption like?

    Ans: Fuel consumption is like 18-20km for per liter of petrol use subject to the riders' riding pattern and road conditions.

    3) Maintenance wise? (how many spark plug, engine oil, belt, others)?

    Ans: Silverwing only uses two(2) spark plugs(not to worries about the changing of plugs cause the changing of plugs only occur after 20,000km of usage).Engine change is only 2 liters for non oil filter change and 2.2 liters for oil filter change.Normally i change my engine oil after every 2500km interval.Belt changing is superb.one single change of belt can goes up to 50,000km.Again,The changing of belt is subject to riders' riding pattern as well.(i suggest you don't drag your scooter duirng start-up.Accelerate and increase the RPM smoothly to achieve higher mileage belt change.

    4) Price? 1 hand or 2nd hand (ard 2yr old)

    Ans: Price for 1st hand inclusive of insurance should cost from $12,500 to $13,500 depending on your age.2nd hand should cost not more than $9000 at the age of 2 years old.

    5) Insurance?

    Ans: Insurance denpends on your age.Mine insurance for 2nd party only cost me $295 after 10% No-Claim Discount.Check it outta the insurance from the motorshop for more accurate pricing.We cannot tell you from here.

    6) Wher can i go to see the real thing or rather to find out more info?

    Ans: ASPoon at changi and Loois' motor at kaki bukit are the most reputable shop to enquire.Check them outta.

    7) Given another chance to choose, will u choose SW again?

    Ans: Once start to ride this bike,i dont even think of trading or selling it away.The riding comfort is great compare to any other scooters around in the market.Believe me,you will fall in love with the scooter once you own it.

    Hopes it helps much.i urge you to consider getting this scooter cause the reliablity and comfort is great!Spare parts are easy to find as well.Needs any help on spare part,enquire from us,we are delight to help
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 03-05-2016 at 02:24 PM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  27. #27
    scoobydoo
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    Default K&N Air Filter for SW400/600

    K&N Air Filter HA-6002: designed for FSC600 but can fit SW 400cc (FJS, JDM, SWT, GT) but has 1 centre screw thread less. no worries, no impact to performance
    costs around $85~$125 include installation & depends on shop/mech.



    DIY: see pic below
    (1) remove lower rear cover: need to unscrew 2 screws from rear
    (2) remove left rear cover: lift the seat then remove the 2 retainer screws from top, then gently full the side cover outwards and be careful not to break any support "legs" or loose the clips. common problem at this stage is many SWingers scratched the top part of the cover just below the pillion's handlebar. you may wanna paste musking/scotch tapes to protect that area.
    (3) Remove the air filter cover: think there are around 8 screws to remove
    (4) Replace air filter: there is a retainer screw
    (5) Put everything back in reverse order: the K&N filter has 1 hole less (right at the centre) compared to the stock filter, thus 1 screw will be left unused but no issue.


    http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1279676319


    review 1: K&N air filter
    when i first installed it, i felt smoother pickup (probably due to smoother or higher airflow (compare to the stock filter). however, FC deteriorated to about 21km/L partly due to heavier wrist (playing with the pickup) and suboptimal airflow for my 80/20 highway/city traveling pattern.
    then i adjusted the airscrews by trial-n-error and finally settled down with a 1.75T setting for my airscrews. i'm currently getting slightly over 25km/L on a regular basis for my 80/20 highway/city traveling pattern.
    the biggest performance gain is obtained when we go touring. can't exactly tell how much but i refuel less petrol over the same distance traveled compared to SW9000 whose FJS SW400 i believe has the best FC among the group

    review 2: removing the airflow duct
    initial feel was that the bike becomes more responsive during stationary move offs and has better pickup when overtaking, riding in city with lots of start-stops seems to be more pleasant. think there's also a small change in "sound" when throttling, dunno if its vibrations. FC deteriorates a little but hey! no free lunch in this world ya? a little more consumption for a more pleasant city riding sounds fair.
    took the bike for touring and there's an issue on FC. the more abundant airflow somehow resulted in FC deteriorating quite a fair bit as compared to when the duct is not removed. this was my conclusion after having rode up n down the NS under 3 different airflow setups; stock filter with duct, K&N with duct, and K&N without duct (haven't try stock filter without duct).

    recommendation:
    removing the airflow duct may be good if you do mostly city riding and dun mind paying a little more fuel for better bike response. for touring, i would personally prefer to have it on as the FC is substantially different. if you're someone who prioritise FC over performance, keep that rubber there.

    Last edited by scoobydoo; 15-12-2010 at 05:39 PM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  28. #28
    Dick Steele
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    Class 2B Dick Steele's Avatar
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    Default Holp...Help...Help...

    Gud day SWing Gurus...

    I have a ride buddy who crashed his SWing 400 a while back. While many of the damage were mostly cosmetic, (aside from his ego), were repairable, the only remaining parts that was not salvageable were the Windshield & Front headlight.

    My Questions are: Are the Windshield & Front Headlight from an SWing 600 fit a 400?? While the 400 is a much more rare Maxi than the 600, Im hoping to get an accurate feedback from everyone here. The 600 Swing is much easier to source out its 400cc brother.

    Any help will be appreciated.... Ride safe.
    Motorcycle Philippines.com, M.I.B., Maxi Scooter Riders (MSR), Honda CB Riders, 400GreyBikes, BikePics, HondaNet.

    GET TO WORK!!! (+69317-998-4999)
    Suzuki Skywave 650 (04), Suzuki Burgman 400 (09), Motocompo

  29. #29
    scoobydoo
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    Default

    dear Mr Steele
    the 400cc & 600cc SW basically use the same chasis (body), chances are the parts are inter-usable.
    your friend's situation is different from ours in Singapore, where most of the SW on our roads are FJS400 or JDM400 instead of FSC600. shops here has stopped bringing in 600cc SW for a while.
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 13-11-2009 at 02:08 PM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  30. #30
    scoobydoo
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    Default Buying an used (aka 2nd hand) Silver Wing?

    technically not technical issue... for easier future reference
    checklist when buying a used Silver Wing?
    (revised)

    General things to look out for (used bike):
    for a 2nd hand or used bike, there're many things to lookout for, such as bike's age/condition, odometer mileage-to-age, buying from owner or motortiam, etc.

    one of the best buys is to buy from people you or your friends know... at least someone know something about the bike.

    basically, i would check...
    (p/s: this is not a exhaustive list)

    body (engine not started):
    ~ 1st amongst all would have to be physical condition of bike itself.
    while the body may not be in pristine condition, it must be in reasonably good condition unless price is discounted sufficiently to cover the necessary restoration. scratches ok, broken or cannot align or mount properly no no. bear in mind that broken body parts may need to be replaced and could add up to quite an amount.
    ~ occasionally, we see a newly "sprayed" SW, these are the bikes we need to be extra careful. common question now is why need to respray? something wrong with original? personally, i'ld go for bikes with original paintwork, at least i can see what and where the "damages" are instead of all "covered up".
    ~ always ask seller if bike has been in an accident; usually won't get truth but you'll never know if the seller is a honest soul... no harm asking
    ~ check that windshield and all tupperwares are there and are in good conditions, e.g. no cracks, "abrasion wounds", loose fittings (probably due to broken internal retainers), all adjoining sections flush nicely, etc. negotiate for lower price if repairs are required, e.g. patch n respray, replace, etc. tupperware replacement for all bikes aren't cheap.
    ~ check for abrasion marks due to skids or stationary drops; brake levels, edge of side mirrors, bar-ends, etc.
    ~ check that no crack exists at head/rear/signal light assemblies; a headlight assembly can cost >$500 before discount
    ~ check that left glove and underseat compartments can be easily/properly locked n unlocked with key provided
    ~ check the left/right pillion foot-peg assemblies are in good condition
    ~ if box included, check condition of box & mount on tailfin
    ~ check condition of seat cover; common to have “cat claws” and may need rewrap if serious
    ~ put front wheel at front-n-back position then check handlebar position for alignment (a rough estimate since cannot test ride)
    ~ check radiator condition; no major dents/depressions in the cooling vanes
    ~ check exhaust cover for abrasion (sure to have if bike dropped on right side unless changed or stickered up)
    ~ some pp “finger” the exhaust “holes” to see if the holes are “wet” (should be carbon only dry); oily residues is usually associated with exhausts with high eo content, i.e. eo may be leaking into chamber n burnt together with fuel, possible caused by worn piston rings
    ~ check condition of front forks; no rust on chrome parts, no leaking at seals, no abrasions or dents (small scratches are normal), etc.
    ~ some pp test front fork springs by “rocking” the bike
    ~ check that both wheels (aka rims) are in good condition, no scuffing or dents, etc.
    ~ check age and condition (e.g. threads, cracks, etc.) of tyres
    ~ check condition of brake assembly, see if there’re heavy dirt clots the brake callipers (signs of poor maintenance)
    ~ check thickness of brake pads (front, rear & hand)
    ~ as most sellers will not permit test rides, try pushing the bike around and see if there is any abnormal sound (e.g. bearing damage, brake disk problem, etc.) or if bike tends to drift in certain direction (e.g. loose/worn steering cone, bad alignment, etc)
    ~ check for bike alignment if you know how

    machine (rider standard nia, not mech standard hor):
    ~ check odometer of the bike for total mileage; while low is generally good, "too" low (e.g. compared to bikes age n wear conditions) may be an indication that the meter assemble has been changed for some reasons
    ~ check right side engine cover for engine oil leaks (common problem if not sealed properly or worn liow); use a tissue paper and swipe the side/bottom of the joint parts
    ~ open the eo dipstick and check whether is dirty, some pp smell the eo for “bad odour”
    ~ check for condition of battery and charging system (needs a voltmeter)
    ~ start bike on main-stand, see if bike starts up spontaneously or needs long cranking
    ~ check that meters do not reset again (a sign that batt needs to be replaced) upon cranking
    ~ check for damages at left & right throttle assembly; test all the buttons/switches (emergency stop, lights and sound)
    ~ rev reasonably and check for any abnormal vibrations or wobbling at the rear wheel/tyre when it spins
    ~ lift the seat and listen for abnormal sound (engine is just below seat), note that a faint consistent "tik tik tik" sound from the valves is normal
    ~ seat still lifted, check if there's any strong petrol smell when engine is stopped (heard may be due to overflow)
    ~ check exhaust for any abnormal sound (too loud or vibrations) when engine running
    ~ if idle too high or too low, ask seller to adjust to about 1.2k rpm and see if rpm can stays smoothly at that level reasonably. if rmp runs up and down by a lot, something is wrong.
    ~ listen to abnormal sound from rear gear assembly (center of rear wheel) when engine at idling, gently turn wheel in reverse direction and listen again; bearings or gears may be worn if got “garak garak” sound
    ~ revving a bit and release throttle, listen to abnormal sound inside transmission cover (variator and clutch area) when engine idling
    ~ don’t think seller will allow us to check spark plugs
    ~ take notes and photos if possible as proof of original condition; dishonest sellers may change some parts or dekit (e.g. voltmeters, barends, VS, etc.) to minimise loss
    ~ check that bike is in same condition as previously seen during next meetup... voice out immediately if found things are different or new damages

    administrative (before n collecting bike):
    ~ find out when and what has been changed or repaired (as a rough guide), with receipts would be best but many of us don't bother to keep receipts cos our regular mech is the proof... haahaahaa
    ~ how many previous owners; generally, many changes is commonly associated with higher risk
    ~ ask if any outstanding traffic offences... for info only becos offences before you own the bike is not your problem
    ~ ask if seller is registered owner (see documentation if possible) or only a sub-rider under carry on installment schemes (they're not legal owners); to prevent disagreements in future
    ~ obtain "black-n-white" for all the agreed items on the bike, e.g. new paintwork, change tyres, repair damaged parts, etc. this is to prevent seller claiming otherwise. take photos as proof.
    ~ must obtain "black-n-white" (aka receipt) if making downpayment to reserve/book the bike; receipts (hand written or printed) from seller must indicate clearly his/her particulars such as NRIC/passport nos., address, contact nos., effective dates, bike registration nos., signature of seller, etc. if buy from motortiam, should get a signed official receipt
    ~ when collecting, check all paperworks are available; e.g. transfer papers, insurance, inspection cert, "street legal" cert (if fitted with aftermarket stuffs), etc.
    ~ if on loan, get a photocopy of "log card" to facilitate application for seasons parking n many other purposes (e.g. riding into thailand)
    ~ check when road tax expires, when due for inspection (if >3 yrs old)
    ~ get all keys available (including box if fitted) n test that all are programmed to start engine
    ~ ask for owners manual (if have)
    ~ ask for tools set (hopefully can get full set, otherwise BYO)

    safety checks before riding off:
    ~ check all lights working (head/high, rear, signals, brakes)
    ~ test horn, test brakes
    ~ check petrol (enough to get to a kiosk), eo level, brake fluid levels
    ~ check engine oil and coolant level
    ~ make sure tires have sufficient pressure

    Post Purchase:
    now that the bike is ours, the next most important thing is to make sure that the bike is properly maintained for safety and performance.
    ~ strip and clean the transmission assemblies… variator and clutch
    ~ check condition of belt, rollers and u-clips, change if necessary
    ~ check condition of clutch pegs and clutch bell, change if necessary
    ~ clean or change the air-filter
    ~ depending on age of bike, may not need to change the flush/change coolant unless you want "special stuffs" (heard the stock coolant is very good and can last a 2-3 years no issue)
    ~ change engine oil, eo filter and final drive oil… should change regardless of what the seller says
    ~ check/change spark plugs
    ~ check tires condition and age (i'ld change when near 3yrs old even if threads are good)
    ~ check wheel alignments
    ~ check/pump tyre pressure
    ~ check/test brakes, including pads (front, rear & hand)
    ~ check or change brake oil
    ~ check battery age and voltage (change or charge as necessary)
    ~ check fork seals n test their dampening (consider if want to change for oil or spring if very loose)
    ~ set the desired idle rpm
    ~ tune air-screw synchronisation & air-fuel mixture
    ~ run fuel system cleaning program; e.g. use Caltex platinum or Shell V-power or injector cleaners like FP60, STP, etc.
    ~ check all lights are working; headlights (normal/high), signals (left/right & front/rear), brakes, etc.
    ~ firm/tighten all screws
    ~ any others as necessary
    after those are done, then i'll start considering the add-ons and enhancements such as...
    ~ loud electric horn (strongly recommended)
    ~ power abusers, voltage stabilisers, revtec, etc
    ~ hazard lights
    ~ "blink-blinks"... hahahaha
    ~ etc, etc, etc

    Welcome to the Club
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 21-10-2014 at 09:56 AM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  31. #31
    scoobydoo
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    Default Sums Of Buying A New Bike

    technically not technical issue... for easier future reference

    "so how much is this bike?", you asked.
    the motortiam fella asks for your age, check a few tables and then says "on-the-road $17K".
    do you know what exactly you are paying for or going to be paying for?

    "On-the-Road" means?
    OTR price is a very loosely used term with various versions of compositions. basically, it means the price to pay in order to take ownership of the purchased unit and operate it on the road, in a condition that meets both roadworthy and legal requirements.
    to most, it is the all inclusive price to pay (not including interests when loans are involved). nevertheless, some shops's OTR price excludes IU which is not mandantory to have while riding on the road.
    basically, the OTR price should cover the following:
    + machine price
    + COE (no GST is payable on COE)
    + LTA registration fees
    + 6 months road tax *
    + 1 year insurance **
    + IU & installation ***
    + admin fees (some shops waive)
    + GST ****
    + any optional goodies (if any)

    notes:
    * standard for new registration bikes (shops claim this is LTA regulation)
    ** must confirm wit shop which is given; 3rd party fire & theft or only 3rd party
    (strongly recommend "upgrade" to 1st party)
    *** most shops quote inclusive, but some shops exclude
    **** COE, registration fee and road tax are NOT subject to GST

    if loan is involved:
    + min./max. loan amount available
    + interest rate p.a.
    + total interest payable over the loan period
    + loan agreement & processing fees
    + monthly installments
    + early payment fees/penalty


    Other Considerations

    ~ which year is bike manufactured?
    old stock bikes are usually priced lower than new shipments. e.g. at same shop, i was quoted $12.7k for a 08 model but only $11.5k if i take a 06 stock.

    ~ what insurance is given? age already factored in?
    with insurance premiums sky-rocketing, most shops will adjust quotes up when rider is young and some shops give only 3P instead of 3PFT (aka 2nd party). buyer top up extra if want 3PFT, probably a few hundreds.
    my personal recommendation is to get/"upgrade" to comprehensive insurance as difference is not a lot; it is worth the extra cos parts of the SW can be rather costly (e.g. fairings, headlight unit, etc).

    ~ any attached conditions?
    most if not all shops quote "with-loan" prices, i.e. must take min. loan at x% interest. e.g. one shop quoted me "no-loan" price = OTR price + $500


    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle View Post
    do you think if you buy full cash from BS, the price will be better than anywhere else, since it's no difference from them selling to bike shops?

    Quote Originally Posted by scoobydoo View Post
    ahh... uncle got a very very good point

    BS's price remains the same with or without loan, and comes with comprehensive insurance.
    from a recent quote, OTR SWT400 prices (incl. GST) for rider aged >40 are ~$18.4k for standard model and ~$19.6k with ABS.
    like uncle suggested, we should get a quote from BS based on the buyer's profile, then compare apple to apple if buying "cash-n-take". prices for different aged riders are different due to different insurance costs.

    shops buy from BS at special dealer prices, prices we don't and won't get to know. it all depends on how much the dealers want for their margin (thus profit). some markup higher some lower, but many (of not most) ask for higher prices for "cash-n-take" deals; at least Looi's and Bike production does that.
    so if prices work out to the same or similar, then other considerations comes into play, like dealers' "sweeteners", after-sales, "friendship" and not forgetting availability of "trade-in" arrangements. BS don't take trade-ins
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 20-02-2012 at 05:23 PM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

     

     
  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by scoobydoo View Post
    dear Mr Steele
    the 400cc & 600cc SW basically use the same chasis (body), chances are the parts are inter-usable.
    your friend's situation is different from ours in Singapore, where most of the SW on our roads are FJS400 or JDM400 instead of FSC600. shops here has stopped bringing in 600cc SW for a while.

    btw, its good to keep this thread for "technical" discussions. we have another thread where most SWingers visit and talk about almost anything. more eyes will see your questions there and you should get some replies fairly quickly... thanks bro
    My bad... Sorry, i figure that since it was a body related matter i thought i would be more fitting on this forum than on the other wherein they more often discuss rides & such. Nevertheless, i really appreciate the rapid response & assistance. More power & Ride safe....
    Motorcycle Philippines.com, M.I.B., Maxi Scooter Riders (MSR), Honda CB Riders, 400GreyBikes, BikePics, HondaNet.

    GET TO WORK!!! (+69317-998-4999)
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  33. #33
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    no worries bro, you've got a point too... there's no clear line for this thread anyway.
    we just try to keep this thread less congested so that people can find the technical and reference materials easily (especially for new or prospective SWingers) without having to search read through hundreds of pages in the main thread

    maybe it shouldn't be called "Technical Corner"... "Reference Corner" (sounds like a library ) could be more appropriate
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
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    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

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    Thankx again. I any case. Do you have info already on the new SWing GT 400 & 600 ABS that just came out??
    Motorcycle Philippines.com, M.I.B., Maxi Scooter Riders (MSR), Honda CB Riders, 400GreyBikes, BikePics, HondaNet.

    GET TO WORK!!! (+69317-998-4999)
    Suzuki Skywave 650 (04), Suzuki Burgman 400 (09), Motocompo

  35. #35
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    Default Fabricated Mini Switchboard


    some SWingers have asked me about this little black box i have on my left handlebar... its a DIY and here's how to get it done

    materials required:
    a) bought from sim lim tower level 3
    ~ 3x rocker switches ($1 ea)


    switch must have 3 legs if you want to use it for hazard lights; those with lights look good but are much bigger in size

    ~ 1x black plactic case ($1.10)
    size must fit the size/number of switches desired

    ~ heat wrap, optional for nicer looks (have on hand)

    ~ electrical wires of desired length & 3 screws (have on hand)

    ~ silicone glue, optional for some water-proofing (on hand)

    b) bought from neighbourhood hardware shop
    ~ aluminium L-bar; those use for edges of furnitures (15cm for <$2)
    ... ...
    simple design to fabricate the bracket using the L-bar

    tools required:
    ~ small drill
    ~ small hack saw or cutter to cut aluminium L-bar to size
    ~ small file to size a rectangular hole on plastic case to fit the switches
    ~ soldering iron & self-flux solder to solder wires to switch "legs"

    steps:
    1a. drill a small hole (just big ebough for small file to access) at location to place centre switch (depends on how many switches you want)
    1b. file hole to rectangular shape exactly sized to fit in the small switch firmly
    1c. push switch into prepared hole (if hole is of right size, switch will sit in firmly)
    2a. repeat steps 1 for remaining switches
    2b. push all switches into prepared hole
    2c. optional: apply some silicone glue at gaps or where desired
    3a. solder the wires to the switch legs accordingly
    3b. optional: shrink wrap the wires for looks & tidyness
    3c. cut a small recess at side of box just enought to allow wires to come out
    4a. place box onto L-bar to get dimension and draw lines to aid cutting
    4b. remove box and cut L-bar as required (refer to above drawings)
    4c. drill the necessary holes, 5 in total (1 for mounting to handlebar, 3 for screws to hold box, 1 at bottom to drain water)
    4d. bend the 2 side "gutters" that will hold the box by the side (see pic)
    4e. make a mark on box through side holes, drill holes on box for screws
    4f. optional: spray mount to black if desired
    5a. place and screw box onto mount and its done

    final product... &

    happy DIYing
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 16-06-2011 at 10:44 PM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  36. #36
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    Default SW Transmission Assembly

    The SW's transmission assembly comprised of:
    * Drive face/assembly
    * Driven (clutch) face/assembly
    * Final drive (gears) assembly




    Clutch Outer (aka Bell) & Drive Shaft


    Clutch Outer (aka Bell)


    Clutch Pegs & Clutch Springs (mounted)


    Removing the Torque Spring


    Torque Spring (removed)


    Drive-Plate



    interestingly, not all SW comes with the clutch side plate...
    dunno why honda removed it from the assembly in later years, or was it only available for FSC 600.

    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle View Post
    Manual says have this side plate at the clutch shoes but mine don't have. Anyone can verify have or not?

    This is actually a superceded part 22361-MCT-000 used in 2003 to 2004 models. Now is replaced by 5 trust washers. I think main reason is cost as it seems to perform better logically by holding the pins in place. Dr Pulley Hit Clutch and Malossi Fly/Delta Clutch have something similar also. Gotta try it!



    scoobydoo's posting says have:



    SW9000's posting on FJS400D7 don't have:



    SW9000's posting on SWT-400 don't have:


    acknowledgements:
    photos contributed by fellow SWinger uncle, silverwing.it and other internet sources.
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 04-06-2012 at 01:21 PM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  37. #37
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    TYRES & HYDROPLANING

    The Honda Silver Wing Scooter FJS/JDM/SWT/GT 400cc/600cc uses tyres with specs:

    • Front 120/80 14M/C 58S
    • Rear 150/70 13M/C 64S
    Refer to post #21 “Tyre Markings” for what those numbers mean.

    Commonly used tyres for the Honda Silver Wing scooter are:

    Among them, the Pirelli Diablo Scooter is the most popular among our group of SW kakis. This is mainly due to its competitive pricing (about $175 a pair including installation) and good balance of traction vs. durability. Note that softer compound tyres provide better traction but wear out at faster rates, thus a trade-off exists.


    To understand more about the tyres we use, lets look at the different types/construction of tyres.

    Tyre Construction

    Radial
    Radial tyre construction utilizes body ply cords extending from the beads and across the tread so that the cords are laid at approximately right angles to the center-line of the tread, and parallel to each other, as well as stabilizer belts directly beneath the tread. The belts may be cord or steel. The advantages of this construction include longer tread life, better steering control, and lower rolling resistance. Disadvantages of the radial tyre include a harder ride at low speeds on rough roads and in the context of off-roading, decreased "self-cleaning" ability and lower grip ability at low speeds.

    Radial tyres are probably the most popular construction for tyres nowadays; their advantages have obviously outweighed the disadvantages.



    Bias
    Bias tyre (or cross ply) construction utilizes body ply cords that extend diagonally from bead to bead, usually at angles in the range of 30 to 40 degrees, with successive plies laid at opposing angles forming a crisscross pattern to which the tread is applied. The design allows the entire tyre body to flex easily, providing the main advantage of this construction, a smooth ride on rough surfaces. This cushioning characteristic also causes the major disadvantages of a bias tyre: increased rolling resistance and less control and traction at higher speeds.

    Belted bias
    A belted bias tyre starts with two or more bias-plies to which stabilizer belts are bonded directly beneath the tread. This construction provides smoother ride that is similar to the bias tyre, while lessening rolling resistance because the belts increase tread stiffness. The plies and belts are at different angles, which improves performance compared to non-belted bias tyres. The belts may be cord or steel.

    Solid
    Many tyres used in industrial and commercial applications are non-pneumatic, and are manufactured from solid rubber and plastic compounds via molding operations. Solid tyres include those used for lawn mowers, skateboards, golf carts, scooters, and many types of light industrial vehicles, carts, and trailers. One of the most common applications for solid tyres is for material handling equipment (forklifts). Such tyres are installed by means of a hydraulic tyre press.

    Semi-pneumatic
    Semi-pneumatic tyres have a hollow center, but they are not pressurized. They are light-weight, low-cost, puncture proof, and provide cushioning. These tyres often come as a complete assembly with the wheel and even integral ball bearings. They are used on lawn mowers, wheelchairs, and wheelbarrows. They can also be rugged, typically used in industrial applications, and are designed to not pull off their rim under use.
    Tyres that are hollow but are not pressurized have also been designed for automotive use, such as the Tweel (a portmanteau of tyre and wheel), which is an experimental tyre design being developed at Michelin. The outer casing is rubber as in ordinary radial tyres, but the interior has special compressible polyurethane springs to contribute to a comfortable ride. Besides the impossibility of going flat, the tyres are intended to combine the comfort offered by higher-profile tyres (with tall sidewalls) with the resistance to cornering forces offered by low profile tyres. They have not yet been delivered for broad market use.


    Typical Tyre Components

    The tyre is an assembly of numerous components that are built up on a drum and then cured under heat and pressure. Heat facilitates a polymerization reaction that cross-links rubber monomers to create long elastic molecules. These polymers create the elastic quality that permits the tyre to be compressed in the area where the tyre contacts the road surface and spring back to its original shape under high-frequency cycles.

    To understand more about the tyre, lets look at its parts/components:




    Tread

    The word tread is often used incorrectly to referred to the pattern of grooves cut into the rubber/compound. Those grooves are actually tread pattern (or simply pattern).

    The tread is the thick rubber or rubber/composite that surrounds the tyre carcass and which comes in contact with the road surface, or like what some may say, grips the road. Treads are often designed to meet specific product marketing positions. Contrary to what many people have understood, it is that part which determines the traction performance of a tyre, not the groves or pattern design.

    Tread compounds include additives to impart wear resistance and traction in addition to environmental resistance. Tread compound development is an exercise in compromise, a trade-off between traction performance and durability. Generally, hard compounds have long wear characteristics but poor traction whereas soft compounds have good traction but poor wear characteristics.



    Tread Pattern

    Tread pattern are the grooves cut into the tread. Tread patterns are characterized by the geometrical shape of the grooves, lugs, voids and sipes. Grooves (patterns) run circumferentially around the tyre, and are needed to channel away water to prevent hydroplaning. Lugs are that portion of the tread design that contacts the road surface. Voids are spaces between lugs that allow the lugs to flex and evacuate water. Tread patterns feature non-symmetrical (or non-uniform) lug sizes circumferentially in order to minimize noise levels at discrete frequencies. Sipes are valleys cut across the tyre, usually perpendicular to the grooves, which allow the water from the grooves to escape to the sides in an effort to prevent hydroplaning.

    Rain Groove

    The rain groove is a design element of the tread pattern specifically arranged to channel water away from the footprint. Many high performance passenger tyres feature rain grooves that are angled from the center toward the sides of the tyre. Some tyre manufacturers claim that their tread pattern is designed to actively pump water out from under the tyre by the action of the tread flexing.

    Tread lug

    Tread lugs provide the contact surface necessary to provide traction. As the tread lug enters the road contact area, or footprint, it is compressed. As it rotates through the footprint it is deformed circumferentially. As it exits the footprint, it recovers to its original shape.



    Tread void

    Tread voids provide space for the lug to flex and deform as it enters and exits the footprint. Voids also provide channels for rainwater, mud, and snow to be channelled away from the footprint. The void ratio is the void area of the tyre divided by the entire tread area. Low void areas have high contact area and therefore higher traction on clean, dry pavement. tyres with high void areas are usually used in off-road situations as compared to those with low void areas.

    Sidewall

    The sidewall is that part of the tyre that bridges between the tread and bead. The sidewall is largely rubber but reinforced with fabric or steel cords that provide for strength and flexibility. Sidewall transmits the torque applied by the drive axle to the tread in order to create traction. In conjunction with air inflation, it also supports the load of the vehicle.

    Sidewalls are usually added with additives to give the sides good abrasion resistance and environmental resistance. Additives used in sidewall compounds include antioxidants and antiozonants. Sidewalls are molded with manufacturer-specific detail, government mandated warning labels, and other consumer information, and sometimes decorative ornamentation, like whitewalls.

    Shoulder

    The shoulder is that part of the tyre at the edge of the tread as it makes transition to the sidewall.

    Inner liner

    The inner liner is an extruded halobutyl rubber sheet compounded with additives that result in low air permeability. The inner liner assures that the tyre will hold high-pressure air inside, without the air gradually diffusing through the rubber structure.

    Body ply

    The body ply is a calendered sheet consisting of one layer of rubber, one layer of reinforcing fabric, and a second layer of rubber. The earliest textile used was cotton; later materials include rayon, nylon, polyester, and Kevlar. Passenger tyres typically have one or two body plies. Body plies give the tyre structure strength. Truck tyres, off-road tyres, and aircraft tyres have progressively more plies. The fabric cords are highly flexible but relatively inelastic.

    Ply

    Plies are layers of relatively inextensible cords embedded in the rubber to hold its shape by preventing the rubber from stretching in response to the internal pressure. The orientations of the plies plays a large role in the performance of the tyre and is one of the main ways that tyres are categorized.

    Beads

    Beads are bands of high tensile-strength steel wire encased in a rubber compound. Bead wire is coated with special alloys of bronze or brass. Coatings protect the steel from corrosion. Copper in the alloy and sulphur in the rubber cross-link to produce copper sulphide, which improves bonding of the bead to the rubber. Beads are inflexible and inelastic, and provide the mechanical strength to fit the tyre to the wheel. Bead rubber includes additives to maximize strength and toughness.

    The bead is that part of the tyre that contacts the rim on the wheel. The bead is typically reinforced with steel wire and compounded of high strength, low flexibility rubber. The bead seats tightly against the two rims on the wheel to ensure that a tubeless tyre holds air without leakage. The bead fit is tight to ensure the tyre does not shift circumferentially as the wheel rotates. The width of the rim in relationship to the tyre is a factor in the handling characteristics of an automobile, because the rim supports the tyre's profile.

    Apex

    The apex is a triangular extruded profile that mates against the bead. The apex provides a cushion between the rigid bead and the flexible inner liner and body ply assembly. Alternatively called "filler" (as in the diagram above).

    Belt package

    Belts are calendered sheets consisting of a layer of rubber, a layer of closely spaced steel cords, and a second layer of rubber. The steel cords are oriented radially in radial tyre construction, and at opposing angles in bias tyre construction. Belts give the tyre strength and dent resistance while allowing it to remain flexible. Passenger tyres are usually made with two or three belts.

    Cushion gum

    Many higher-performing tyres include an extruded component between the belt package and the tread to isolate the tread from mechanical wear from the steel belts.

    Other components

    Tyre construction methods vary somewhat in the number and type of components, as well as the compound formulations for each component, according to the tyre use and price point. tyre makers continuously introduce new materials and construction methods in order to achieve higher performance at lower cost.


    More About Motorcycle Tyres

    Contact Patch

    Unlike tread, contact patch is the portion of tread that is in actual contact with the road surface, at any one time. Also call “footprint”, it is the only connection between the road and the vehicle. The size and shape of the contact patch as well as the pressure distribution within the contact patch are important to the ride qualities and handling characteristics of the motorcycle. Because pneumatic tyres are flexible, the contact patch is different when the vehicle is in motion from when it is static. Generally, the size, shape, and pressure distribution are dependent on many factors, the most important of which are load on the tyre and inflation pressure:

    • The larger the load on the tyre, the larger the contact patch.
    • The larger the inflation pressure, the smaller the contact patch.


    It is for this reason that maintaining a suitable tyre pressure for different riding setups is important, for handling, wear and most importantly safety.

    • Manufacturers recommended higher inflation pressure when carrying pillion so as to prevent excessive/uneven tread wear (suboptimal contact patch), poor handling and poor fuel efficiency relating to under-inflated tyres.
    • When tyres are over-inflated (some riders increase pressure for better fuel economy), uneven tread wear may occur and tyres experience lower traction as contact patch are reduced, depending on extent of over-inflation.
    Please refer to Owners Manual...


    Different tyres for Different Purposes

    No one tyres is suitable for all conditions. There are various multi or dual-purpose tyres available in the market nowadays. Generally, the performance or suitability of a tyre for specific use is dependent on factors such as:

    • Tread … determines the amount of compound in contact with the surface; more contact means more grip.
    • Tread pattern … required for water dispersion and prevent hydroplaning.
    • Compound … softer compounds generally provides better grips, but wear off at higher rates compared to harder ones.
    High performance track tyres have no void/pattern (or little void ratios) to provide maximum rubber in contact with the road for higher traction, and may be compounded with softer rubber that provides better traction, but wears quickly. Off road tyres are designed with higher void ratios to channel away rain and mud, while providing better gripping performance. Specialized tyres will always work better than general/all purpose/all weather tyres when being used in the conditions the specialized tyres are designed for.



    Slick/Track Tyres

    A slick tyre (also known as a track/racing) is a type of tyre that has no tread pattern, used mostly in auto racing. By eliminating any grooves cut into the tread, such tyres provide the largest possible contact patch to the road, and maximize traction for any given tyre dimension. Slick tyres are used on road/track racing, where steering and braking require maximum traction from each wheel, but are typically used on only the driven (powered) wheels in drag racing, where the only concern is maximum traction to put power to the ground. They are used in racing where competitors can choose different tyres based on the weather conditions.

    Slick tyres are not suitable for use on common road vehicles, which must be able to operate in all weather conditions. They have far less traction than grooved tyres under wet conditions due to aquaplaning, having water trapped between the tyre contact area and the road surface. Grooved tyres are designed to remove water from the contact area through the grooves, thereby maintaining traction in wet conditions.

    Street/Scooter Tyres

    The tread pattern or grooves in the tyre compound are designed to allow water to be expelled from beneath the tyre and prevent hydroplaning. The proportion of rubber to air space on the road surface directly affects its traction. Design of tyre tread has an impact upon noise generated, especially at freeway speeds. Generally there is a tradeoff of tread friction capability. Deeper patterns often enhance safety, but simpler designs are less costly and produces less noise on the run. Less grooves provide better traction in the dry but less effective when on wet surfaces.

    These tyres often include wear limit indicators in the form of small raised bridges within the grooves. When the tread is worn down enough that the limit indicators make contact with the road, the tyre is deemed to be at the end of its service life.

    Off-Road/Mountain Bike Tyres
    Often comes in the form of studded tyres, off-road tyres used in mud or dirt feature individual knob patterns to allow the tyre to bite into the surface and lever the sides of the tread to get a better grip. Given the smaller contact patch, these tyres tend to wear quickly when used on asphalt (or bitumen roads). Some tyres feature an unbroken tread pattern that runs along its center. This feature provides better traction and lower noise on asphalt at high tyre pressure, but retains the ability to provide grip on a soft or loose surface- lower tyre pressure or soft ground will cause the side lugs to come into contact with the surface.


    HYDROPLANING



    Hydroplaning (also called aquaplaning) by the tyre occurs when a layer of water builds between the rubber tyres of the vehicle and the road surface, lifting the tyre off the ground. This leads to loss of traction, thus preventing the vehicle from responding to control inputs such as steering, braking or accelerating. If it occurs on both wheels, the motorcycle becomes an uncontrolled sled.



    The tread pattern (and rain grooves) of a rubber tyre are designed to disperse water from beneath the tyre, providing continuity of traction even in wet conditions. Hydroplaning occurs when a tyre encounters more water than it can dissipate. When that happens, water pressure in front of the wheel forces a wedge of water under the leading edge of the tyre, causing it to lift off from the road. The tyre then skates on a sheet of water with little, if any, direct road contact, resulting in loss of control.

    If unlucky, the motorcycle loses directional control and slide until it either:
    • collides with an obstacle, or
    • looses all momentum due to friction from scraping the ground.
    If lucky, it slows down sufficiently till one or more tyres regain traction with the road again, and hopefully the rider could maintain the motorcycle upright without falling.

    The risk of hydroplaning increases with the depth of standing water (puddles or minor flooding) on the road and the sensitivity of a vehicle to that water depth.
    Some factors that increases risk are:
    • Unsafe handling on wet grounds: high speed, rapid acceleration, hard braking (especially on the turn), and acute steering/banking.
    • Inappropriate type of tyre: insufficient tread pattern or groves to disperse water.
    • Worn tyres: lack of tread pattern or groove depth to disperse water sufficiently.
    • Under-inflation: can cause a tyre to deflect inward, raising the tyre center and preventing the tread from clearing water.
    • Tyres with small diameter and wide width: due to smaller contact patch (less traction) and wider surface “pushing” water; longer (tyres bigger diameter) and thinner (slimmer tyres) contact patch aids in the tyre “cutting” through the water patches.
    • Weight (motorcycle & rider/s): more weight on a properly inflated tyre lengthens the contact patch, improving its aspect ratio and traction. However, weight can increase risk if tyres are underinflated.
    Basically…
    Suitable and properly conditioned tyres must be used at all times, especially on wet floor. Motorcycles benefit from narrow tyres with round, canoe-shaped contact patches. Narrow tyres are less vulnerable to hydroplaning because vehicle weight is distributed over a smaller slimmer area, and rounded/wider tyres more likely to push water. These advantages diminish on lighter motorcycles with naturally wide tyres, like those in the super-sport class. Furthermore, wet conditions reduce the lateral force that any tyre can accommodate before the tyres loose traction and start sliding. Unlike a slide on a four-wheeled car, the same slide on a motorcycle usually cause a crash or rider to fall. Thus, despite the relative lack of hydroplaning danger in wet conditions (compared to cars), motorcycle riders must be even more cautious because overall traction is reduced by wet roadways.

    Recommended Response When Hydroplaning

    It is most unfortunate that when a motorcycle hydroplanes while at a turn, it usually skids out of control and rider falls as a result. Unlike cars where the driver could execute “counter steer” techniques (driver steers in the direction of the skid until the rear tyres gain traction and then rapidly steer in the other direction to straighten the car), a motorcycle usually looses its balance in the event of a similar skid.

    To recover from hydroplaning while travelling in a relatively straight line, the rider should:
    • refrain from steering handlebar at an angle and try to keep straight (along direction of movement) so as to keep centre of gravity as much to centre as possible to prevent falling/skidding sideways,
    • refrain from harder braking as this increases risk of wheels locking since affected tyre has lost traction with ground,
    • gently ease the throttle while attempting as best to stay upright/balanced on the 2-wheeled motorcycle (unlike cars with 4 wheels).
    Basically, slow the motorcycle gradually and let tyres regain traction on their own while trying to avoid falling.

    If braking is unavoidable, the rider should “tap-n-release” the brakes (repeatedly) very gently to slow the motorcycle down gradually until hydroplaning stops. During hydroplaning, the affected tyre is “lifted” off the ground (no traction) and “harder” braking is likely cause wheel lock, further increasing risk of skidding out of control.

    Most Important Response = Prevention

    The best strategy is to adopt defensive driving techniques and avoid contributors to hydroplaning. Selecting appropriate tyres for riding conditions/environment, unworn tyres, proper inflation pressure, safely avoid riding over puddles/standing water wherever possible, reduce to safe speeds, etc.



    Acknowledgement:
    Information were compiled from various websites such as wikipedia, tyre manufacturer's websites, etc.
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 12-10-2011 at 11:27 AM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  38. #38
    scoobydoo
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    Default 1st 10 Enhancements?

    First 10 Enhancements ... basic stuffs

    the beauty of SW is that its a pretty complete maxi-scoot, with a few minor flaws that could be overcome with after-market parts no bike is 100% some SWingers kept their bikes stock all they way.

    but if you really want to make the good bike even better or more comfortable by spending a little of year-end your bonus, here's 10 "not so expensive" enhancements that could potentially give immediate results (IMHO):

    1) make sure they hear you
    the first i will always recommend is to fit a loud horn, eg. stebel, hella electric horn (air-horns are not approved by lta), costs about $40 (including installation). can also buy horn (about $20) and then DIY. most drivers drive with windows wound up (enjoy air-con mah) and stereo playing. the stock horn is sometimes like mosquito buzzing and hardly noticeable. my stebel magnum 2 has saved my ass many times from drivers who refuse or "forget" to check blind spots.
    if they can't see you, make sure they can hear you!
    btw, electric horns are LTA friendly, air-horns are not.

    2) better handling
    change front fork springs to hyperpro, costs around $300 with installation & oil. this will improve handling by a lot as the SW's stock springs are pretty soft to "kup coner" comfortably.

    3) protect the fork seal
    at the same time when changing fork springs, add fork seal protector.

    4) more efficient combustion
    change to denso IUH-24 or IUH-24D irridium spark plugs, costs <$40 a pair include installation. cheaper if buy from LAB and DIY change. gives you better sparking/combustion, thus better FC & throttle response.

    5) stabilise handlebar
    change to heavy handle-bar balancer, costs about $35 a pair. heavier balancers help reduce the vibrations on the handlebar, giving better comfort.

    6) stabilise electricals
    can consider adding power abuser 2, or raizin voltage stabiliser or revtec plus grounding. such products claim to improve throttle response, pickup, FC, etc. but they basically work to stabilise the electrical supply. these are very controversial items coz many believes while many don't. personally, i've got PA2 in my SW and raizin in my car. wouldn't call myself a believer but try try lor... whahahaha. i can't really agree with the science behind these products but my butt dyno did felt some difference.

    7) enhance airflow
    change to K&N air filter, about $130 include installation. better airflow helps combustion and thus response. proven to give better FC at higher end, especially when touring.

    8) add switches for hazard & main head light
    costs about $45~$50+ at motorshops (switch and installation included). the hazard light is a very useful and safety function especially when we need to stop by the roadside to answer a call or change into rain gears, for touring and/or riding in the rain.
    the headlight switch is to allows rider to off the main beam when desired or necessary, e.g. trying to start engine when battery is weak, warming up bike at MSCP with headlights off to avoid shining into neighbors house, etc.

    9) top-box for storage
    although the SW comes with a generous underseat storage compartment, it is usually not sufficient if you're those that carry lots of stuffs everywhere you go, e.g. rain gears, tools, slippers, spare helmets, etc. furthermore, the underseat compartment is usually warm after some riding and storing the helmets there may not be quite desirable to some. if a top-box wasn't part of the sales deal, it is highly recommended to get one. costs from around $120 (givi simply E450 basic matt) to >$500 (h&p). can add a backrest onto top-box for pillion's comfort, costs about $45 to customise one at Eugene's or can get the ready-made piaggio's (can try to find 2nd hand).

    10) 12V "cigarette" socket
    unlike the FJS/JDM models, the SWT does not come with a 12V supply socket from factory. this socket is especially useful when you need to charge your electronic gadgets (hp, gps, etc) or run some 12V tools (e.g. air-pump, wrench, etc). cost of a socket range from few dollars to >$30 depending on quality, labor not included yet.


    with more budget, you can consider the more capital intensive stuffs like exhaust full-system, rear shocks, etc.

    happy modding
    another popular add-on is a voltmeter
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 21-11-2011 at 03:49 PM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  39. #39
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    Default FJS400 Electrical Wiring Diagram

    FJS400 Electrical Wiring Diagram
    Attached Files Attached Files

  40. #40
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    Default

    Aftermarket Variator, Rollers, Torque Springs


    Some common aftermarket variators for SW


    the front variator assembly is sometimes referred to as multivar, maybe it is the short form for "multi-speed variators".. just guessing

    left: Polini variator & rollers (roller weights & "jackets")
    right: stock variator & rollers


    * Polini Speed Control


    * Malossi Multivar 2000


    * Malossi Fly/Delta Clutch


    * J-Costa Variator (on right)
    ... notice that it uses friction pins instead of the usual rollers






    SW Clutch Bell (Honda Stock)

    Quote Originally Posted by SW9000 View Post
    Just found that the clutch bell for SW400 and SW-T are also different part number. Why? Because SW-T comes thicker (1.5mm) thus no pigeon sound.
    http://66.163.168.225/babelfish/tran...%26Itemid%3d83


    SW400 *Look part number 1
    Attachment 240893

    SW-T400

    Attachment 240894

    Rollers for SW

    So if i want more low end acceleration, i can change the rollers to lighter ones, Malossi 24Grams?
    Honda (Stock) Rollers
    1. The green 29g rollers actually belongs to JDM400. Part number 22123-MEF-000.

    2. The brown 25.3g rollers are for FJS400 and SW-T400. Part number 22123-MEF-D00.
    Honda stock items: clutch pegs (left) & rollers (right)

    Quote Originally Posted by SW9000 View Post
    That's the same roller part number most shops will replace even for the FJS or SW-T.
    Should get the D00 instead but I'm still waiting for stock to arrive.
    yes, using lighter rollers "allows" faster acceleration BUT you will be running bike at higher rpms... consumes more fuel??

    this is due to the science of centrifugal forces acting in the variator... rate of spinning (rpm) and weight of rollers (mass object) reacts to create centrifugalforces which "change the gears".

    * spinning fling/push the rollers outwards from the axis which in turn pushes the ramp and movable drive plates apart.
    * movement squeeze the drive plates (which hold the belt) closer and forces the belt to move outwards ("idle" position is closer to the crank shaft).
    * when belt at front variator increases it circumference, it pulls itself inwards at the rear variator (idle position is away from drive shaft).
    * when front has smaller circumference and rear has larger circumference, this is the equivalent of low gear; many rotations at front is required to cause 1 rotation at rear.
    * when front has larger circumference and rear has smaller circumference, this is the equivalent of high gear; 1 rotation at front causes many rotations at rear.

    Malossi rollers

    malossi also has rollers usable for SW; also has "whole" set for SW (variator, belt, clutch, springs, etc.). check this out:
    http://www.malossistore.eu/famiglia2...M=MO%2fHOSI400
    http://www.malossistore.eu/famiglia2...M=MO%2fHOSW400

    24g rollers: good for city use, ~1g lighter than honda "brown" ones
    21g rollers: very light rollers for zippy ride in city, not recommended as you'll operate bike at much higher rpms

    note: some riders alternate the rollers in attempt to "balance" out and get an average weight. i.e. 21g-24g-21g-24g- etc.
    not recommended as it will cause uneven wear on the roller ramps of the variator.
    why? heavier rollers experience higher centrifugal forces, thus works harder on the ramps to push the variator out. exaggerated illustration is like having 8 fellas (4 fellas slightly shorter) carrying a boat on their heads, the 4 taller fellas will bear most of the weight of the boat and gets tired out earlier.


    some SWingers have used Dr Pulley sliding rollers (mostly lighter than stock):
    http://www.unionmaterial.com/vsScooterTypeAll.htm
    some riders have posted their review/feedback in the forum and seems some experienced faster wear-n-tear after using. however, manufacturer/resellers claimed no such issue.

    Quote Originally Posted by SW9000 View Post
    Dr Pulley sliders got 26g, 25g, 24g and 21g.
    caa 6pm today, Tai Hin only have 21g left.

    If want the 26g, must pre-order. With installation, expect $95.

    Alternatively, can use the malossi 24g rollers (use with stock variator).
    Ah Choong left 3 sets I think, at $65 per set.

    Confirmation with Ah Choong's SW Manuals (JDM & FJS)

    1. The green 29g rollers actually belongs to JDM400. Part number 22123-MEF-000.

    2. The brown 25.3g rollers are for FJS400 and SW-T400. Part number 22123-MEF-D00.

    However, for god knows how long, FJS have come installed with the green rollers as stock. Likewise the 1st Gen SW-T.
    Now with the current SW-T, they finally used the correct brown rollers.
    Unfortunately, all parts agencies continue to bring in only the green ones, thinking that is stock. Alamak.

    I've ordered 2x brown sets from ACM. Hopefully will arrive by May 12.
    If they are the correct ones, I'll order some more just to keep spares. **Green ones are just too slow...

    Anyway, I took the 24g Malossi for testing also. Will fix on tmr and check the difference.

    Attachment 240798
    * Dr Pulley sliding rollers (by Union Material)
    ... Tai Hin is authorised distributor in SG
    despite many claims that these sliders cause premature wear on the variator plates (ramp), many users who experienced better performance from the non-linear "gear ratio" change.
    SW uses size 28x20, available in 3 weights 24g, 26g & 28g.

    http://www.unionmaterial.com/rollerweight6.htm
    http://www.unionmaterial.com/vsScooterTypeAll.htm

    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle View Post
    Dr Pulley Sliding Rollers SR2820 26g



    Installed today. The uniqueness is it makes the variator movement non-linear compared to normal round rollers. 26g seems just nice. Move-off rpm is slightly higher than stock at around 3.5krpm. Most of the "gear ratio change" occurs around 4.5-5.5krpm, which is near SW max torque. At high speed, rpm is about 500rpm lesser than stock to achieve the same speed. Engine brake seems lesser. Feels pretty good for a simple change.
    Quote Originally Posted by Fusionjaz View Post
    I don't have the experience of installing dr. Pulley rollers. But I do ever see the damage done after installing dr pulley rollers. The square rollers will cause friction damage on the roller guides in the variator. If you Want a higher torque, you can try installing a after market torque spring. I am running malossi torque spring.

    Clutch Springs




    Does anyone know the Spring Rate of the OEM Clutch springs?

    Does anyone know the Spring Rate of the various color springs of the Malossi spring set?
    What do you mean by saying rate?

    I know that the
    white malossi springs are 10% firmer then the oem springs.
    yellow malossi springs are 30% firmer then the oem springs.
    red malossi springs are 50% firmer then the oem springs.


    I am not an expert on this, but I think I understand it well enough to respond. Everybody, feel free to correct me if I am wrong.

    The drive train (variator, belt and clutch) depends upon friction and centrifugal force to make the scooter move.

    When we were kids, we thought it was neat to tie a string around a potato and swing it in a circle around our heads. At first, the potato would hang down near the ground, but as we swung it faster, it would rise and the string would straighten out - centrifugal force at work.

    The other thing we would do (again, as kids that didn't know any better) is to find two walls and climb them by putting our feet against one wall and our butts against the other wall. You could walk up the wall if you pressed hard enough - friction at work. If you did not press hard enough, you slipped and fell down. Rock climbers use the same technique.

    The variator works on centrifugal force - spin the motor faster and the roller/slider weights fling outwards, causing the variator to slide closer together and changing the motor speed/wheel speed ratio change.

    The belt works on friction. If it slips, you don't move.

    The clutch works on friction and centrifugal force. The faster it spins, the more the centrifugal force pushes the clutch pads (shoes?) against the bell housing of the clutch. The clutch springs (the little ones that attach to the clutch shoes, not the single big spring you can see when you take the cover off the driveline) hold the shoes away from the bell housing until the springs are overpowered by enough centrifugal force (about 2000-2200 RPM on stock springs) to cause them to contact the bell housing and make the rear wheel turn. The clutch shoes will slip a little at first because there is not enough centrifugal force to cause enough friction until close to 2800-3000 RPM to fully engage the shoes.

    So, if you are getting a slipping feel, it is coming from the belt or the clutch shoes.

    You could solve that problem in a couple of ways. 1)Use a new belt. 2)Use stronger clutch springs (yellow or red Malossi) so that the clutch does not engage until it can engage strongly. This might lead to jerkier starts, but with your sidecar's extra weight it probably won't be a problem for you. If you use weaker clutch springs, it would allow the clutch shoes to contact sooner (less than 2000 RPM), but in a weaker way (less centrifugal force) - allowing more slip. 3)Use a clutch with more shoes/pads for a greater contact area.

    How old is your belt? If it's old, try a new one. If your belt is fairly new, then you might want to start with clutch springs. If you feel like you just don't have the power to get up hills with the sidecar, you might want to put in lighter variator weights to allow the motor to rev higher. Personally, I do not think I would want to change the single big clutch spring - that would have a similar effect to using lighter variator weights. However, if you have a fresh belt and stronger clutch springs and you are still getting slippage, then heavier weights and a stronger single clutch spring would put the belt under more tension and reduce belt slippage.

    Hope this helps. Let us know what you do and how it affects your scoot.

    Philip
    http://silverwing.org/cgi-bin/topic_show.pl?tid=4499

    Torque (aka Contra) Spring

    Torque spring affects the rate at which the "gear ratio" is dropped when we close the throttle; feeling is something like engine brake effect.
    a stronger torque spring gives a speedier change but some riders prefer to experience less "engine brake"... matter of choice.
    all springs deteriorates or weaken over time. i.e. there will come a time where we need to change the torque spring, question is to use stock one or an aftermarket




    After taking off the black cover... this is what you see


    rollers & variator
    http://www.silverwing.org/mwf/attach.../swbeltrm3.jpg

    http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/a...1&d=1062438878
    http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/a...1&d=1062439099
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 18-02-2014 at 03:32 PM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  41. #41
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    Default More About Spark Plugs

    The conventional petrol internal combustion engine which the SW (almost all bikes) is running on depends on spark plugs to spark or fire the engine cycles. Many variables combined with the spark plugs to make the engine run smoothly and optimally. e.g. grade of petrol, fuel-air mixture, voltage from ignition coil, material (e.g. platinum, iridium, etc) and design (gap, grove, protrusion, heat range, etc) of plugs, wires, timing (advance or retard), etc.

    Read more about spark plugs here:
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spark_plug

    when you next change your sparkies, don't just throw them away as they are trying to tell you something about your current setting.
    so what are your sparkies trying to tell you?



    ... A tan colored plug means that the engine is running normal and the air/fuel mixture is correct. This is the correct color a spark plug should be and it tells you everything is fine with the engine. You would install a new properly gapped plug. When installing a new plug, replace the old one with the same heat range. This plug shows normal wear in the center electrode. A new plug would have square edges that helps the plug fire better.

    ... This plug is worn out from being used for a long period of time. Notice how the center electrode is round and worn from use. A spark plug that is worn takes a lot more voltage to fire and can cause poor engine running.

    ... This plug shows what can happen when something hits the spark plug. Something from inside the engine has hit the plug and this problem must be repaired before running the engine further. Make sure the spark plug is the correct length for the engine.

    ... Excessive detonation has caused the porcelin on this plug to break away. If this engine is allowed to run, engine damage can occur. Make sure the fuel octane is high enough for the engines requirements.

    ... A white colored plug is caused by engine overheating. Failure to repair this engine will result in severe engine damage. Common causes for this are:
    • Incorrect spark plug (too hot heat range).
    • Low octane fuel.
    • Timing is not set properly.
    • Cooling problems, (dirty cylinder fins, no or low water if water cooled, low or no engine oil).
    • Carburetor air/fuel mixture is too lean (too much air).
    • Leaking crankshaft seals, no oil, base or head gasket leaks, or crankcase leaks on two stroke engines.


    ... This plug has ash deposits which are light brownish deposits that are encrusted to the ground and/or center electrode. This situation is caused by the type of oil used and adding a fuel additive. This condition will cause a misfire. This can be also caused by changing oils in midstream.

    ... This plug is oiled fouled, caused by poor oil control.

    ... Pre-ignition, which will usually look as a melted center electrode and/or ground electrode. Check for incorrect heat range plug, over advanced timing, lean fuel mixtures or even hot spots or deposit accumulation inside the combustion chamber.

    ... Sustained Pre-ignition, which will usually look as a melted or missing center electrode and/or ground electrode as well as a destroyed insulator. Check for incorrect heat range plug, over advanced timing, lean fuel mixtures or even hot spots or deposit accumulation inside the combustion chamber.

    ... Splashed deposits look as if they are small islands of contaminants on the insulator. This is usually caused by dirty carburetor bores or air intake.


    ... A black dry fluffy colored plug is caused by deposits from a carburetor that is running too rich (too much gas), or excessive idling on some engines. Black smoke coming from the exhaust is a sign of a rich air/fuel mixture. The rich air/fuel mixture must be repaired before installing a new spark plug. Common causes for a rich air/fuel mixture are:

    • dirty air filter.
    • air mixture screw or carburetor needs adjusting.
    • choke is sticking.
    • carburetor float height is out of adjustment or float is sticking open.
    references:
    http://www.theultralightplace.com/sparkplugs.htm
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spark_plug
    Last edited by scoobydoo; 05-09-2010 at 12:02 PM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

     

     
  42. #42
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    Talking Ideas for Non-Stock Silverwing???

    Looks?
    + change to bike seat cover with designs or coloured
    + common mods on IU:
    . . . use IU cover/jacket or spray IU (to black or choice colour)
    . . . shift IU into right glove compartment
    . . . link IU power cable with a cigarette plug and use IU as plug-n-play device in left glove compartment
    . . . add power socket/lint to IU power cables to make it removable in right glove compartment
    + paste theme stickers or whole bike
    + airbrush pics/designs on bike
    + sports (shorter) windshield
    + tinted windshield
    + undercarriage LED illum lights
    + blinker or strobe lights
    + coloured LED for pilot lights

    Faster on Less?
    + add voltage regulator units (e.g. PA2, Revtec, VS, etc)
    + add grounding for smoother engine and preserve batt
    + improve sparking (e.g. PA ignite)
    + use iridium spark plugs
    + change to performance spark plug wires
    + use lighter rollers for faster pickup (e.g. Dr Pulley, Malossi)
    + change to aftermarket variators (e.g. Malossi Multivar, Pollini Speed Control, etc)
    + change to performance exhaust full system (e.g. Leo Vince)
    + change to K&N air-filter
    + modify airbox for better airflow
    + change air-fuel settings by adjusting air-screws
    + add fuel-filter for cleaner fuel
    + add fuel ionisers or catalyst (e.g. broquet)
    + use fuel additives for cleaner systems (e.g. FP60, STP additives range, etc)

    Safer?
    + non-slip bike seat cover ~$70+ to >$150 depends on design/material
    + add 3rd brake lights to box or body
    + add reflectors or stick reflector-strips to side and/or rear
    + change to brighter headlight bulbs
    + change to yellowish headlight bulbs (good for touring)
    + add hazard lights
    + change to harder springs for better handling (e.g. hyperpro)
    + change to harder rear shocks for better handling (e.g. haggon)
    + use steel braided brake hoses for more sensitive braking
    + change to electric horn (this is really a potential life saver)
    + change to better gripping tyres

    Comfortable?
    + add gel or high-density sponge under seat cover
    + change to heady balancers for less vibrations
    + change to BMW grips for better comfort & grips
    + add throttle rocker to relief wrist strain
    + change to bigger/taller/wider wind shields for more comfort
    + add rider’s raised backrest for long distance support
    + add pillion backrest
    + add pillion armrest
    + change pillion footrest to “floorboard” type

    “Functionable”?
    + add top box (some comes with built in brake lights)
    + add luggage rack to top-box
    + add side saddlebags or hard-cases
    + add console bag (centre above fuel tank)
    + add GPS/PDA/mobile phone mounts (RAM mounts or customised)
    + add HID kit for brighter whiter headlights
    + add voltmeter to monitor charging and battery level
    + add headlight protector to preserve headlight unit
    + add wire-mesh radiator protector (DIY)
    + add spot/fog lights for more illum in the dark
    + shift side mirrors to mount on fairing (head cowl)
    + add front fork-seal protector
    + add rear shocks dust cover or wrap (DIY)
    + change to L-shaped air-leads for easier tyre inflation
    + change to LED bulbs for rear/brake lights
    + change to LED bulbs for signal lights
    + add 1-way or 2-way alarm systems for additional security
    + add stereo system for some entertainment
    + add intercom system (wired)
    + change rider rubber foot-mat to metallic foot-board

    Disclaimer:
    Many of the additional or enhancement items in the ideas list above are not approved by LTA. SWingers who choose to adopt the ideas and make the various changes will have to bear responsibility for their own decisions and actions. I shall not be held responsible for any inconveniences, legal liabilities or injuries resulting from the changes made.


    Last edited by scoobydoo; 05-09-2010 at 12:05 PM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  43. #43
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    Default

    Anyone know where to getthe original underseat light with on/off switch. I saw it At the Italy sw community forum.

    http://66.163.168.225/babelfish/tran...%26Itemid%3d83

    Got the Honda serial number but went to FJT and chong aik both shop say they dun carry the parts.

    Any ideas where to find if? I find that the light now is wasting battery in the day. When u open the seat it will also turn on.

    That day I forget to lock the seat properly and the light was on the whole two days till I rode the bike.

    Where to get led Light for it and the pilot light?
    Last edited by *fishermen21*; 27-01-2010 at 02:04 AM.
    My First Bike - phantom 150 - Dec 1999, CBR 400 RN - 2003, Honda Wave -2003, Super4 Spec II -2004, Fazer 6 S2 - May 2007, SilverWing 400 Euro - Feb 2010, BMW R1200ST - July 2010

  44. #44
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    Default

    Hi SW Gurus,

    need some advice on purchasing a SW400 - Euro '07 Model.

    SW400 - Euro - '07
    Registered feb '07
    34K Mileage

    Outlook 8/10 - Silver - some minor scratches at the front fender
    Engine sounds ok.
    Brakes and lights work well.
    No visible rust on metal parts
    Dash need polishing

    That's all i can figure out within the bike shop.

    Taking the bike out is gonna cost me $9400 OTR (inc. insurance, road tax, 1 full servicing).
    Im taking a loan..so we'll leave tat part with the interest out.

    I need your opinions... is teh price of $9400 "ok" for a SW in teh condition i have mentioned ??

    cheers
    Last edited by nineh; 04-02-2010 at 02:29 PM.
    SH*T HAPPENS!
    Pick It Up. Start It. Ride It.
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  45. #45
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    Default Tyre Balancing

    Quote Originally Posted by scoobydoo View Post
    someone PM me about which shop can do rear tyre balancing but guess i'ld post reply here, for the good of anyone who's thinking of changing tyres soon...

    according info gathered from fellow SWinger, Sporting Motor has "gadgets" to do balancing for both front and rear tyres for SW... see tech corner post #5.
    from what i was told (i've never done rear balancing for my SW ), balancing the SW' rear wheel require special "calipers" to hold the wheel in place for spinning on the balancing machine; this is due to the odd shaping axle area (see pics below). another common issue is that the rear wheel's radius (with the tyre) is too small for many balancing machines even when they can be mounted; can't spin the wheel/tyre when the spinner unit can't touch the tyre.

    i believe the price for a pair of pirelli diablo scoot (incl. labor and f/r balancing) has increased... guess i'll still take the package as if around $170~$180+
    remember to check age of tyres.

    Sporting Motors Pte Ltd
    1 Kaki Bukit Ave 6 #02-60 Autobay @ Kaki Bukit Singapore 417883
    http://gothere.sg/maps#q:417883
    Tel: 6396 0230
    ~ balancing only: approx. $20 each wheel
    ~ pirelli diablo scoot (F/R set) include labour & front/rear balancing: approx $160+
    ~ brake pads include labor/GST: EBC FA261HH for SW front $67, FA196HH for SW rear $67





    Quote Originally Posted by SW9000 View Post
    AC also have 'gadget' for the rear wheel but they currently no have the machine to balance ANY wheel...

    some articles about tyre balancing...

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tire_balance
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balancing_machine
    http://customwheelsmarket.com/moinonwhba.html

    Example of a motorcycle "spinner" wheel balancer
    http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

    Note: scooter wheel adaptors needs to be separately purchased, something which many motortiams didn't invest in.

    Features:

    EEWB308D Balancer Includes
    1412 Conical Spring
    3607-01Conical Spring
    3609-01 Spacer
    EAC0054D14A Left Hand Crank
    EAM0006G16A Left Hand Crank Bolt
    WBM8430-02 Caliper Assembly
    EAA0255J43A Flange Assembly
    EAM0005D62A Distance Gauge Extender
    EAM0005D40A Calibration Weight
    EAK0221J13A Adaptor Kit
    7-14201A Power Adaptor (120VAC, 1.9 amps)

    EEWB308A Optional Accessories (not Included)
    EAA0260D16A BMW Adaptor. For rear monolever wheels.
    EAA0260D80A Basic Motorcycle Adaptor. For 14mm shafts.
    EAA0277D03A Shaft Assembly. 10mm shaft diameter.
    EAA0277D05A Scooter Adaptor.
    EAA0277D06A Scooter Rear Wheel Adaptor. 14mm shaft.
    EAA0277D07A Suzuki Adaptor. For 14mm shaft.
    EAA0277D09A Honda/Yamaha Wheel Adaptor.
    EAA0277D11A Aprilla Rear Monolever Wheel Adaptor.
    EAA0277D20A Ducati Adaptor. For 3/4" shaft.
    EAA0277D21A Ducati Adaptor. For 28.5mm shaft.
    EAA0277D22A Harley Davidson Shaft Assembly. For integrated shaft.
    EAA0277D29A Shaft Assembly. 14mm shaft diameter. 10.125" long.
    WBM1486-03 Bushing Set. 19mm.
    WBM1515 Shaft Set. 12mm shaft diameter.
    WWPR13A Wheel Weight Pliers

    Balancing the wheels/tyres yourself?
    (without using the expensive machines)

    Yes, it can be done. All you need is the relevant tools and some space, assuming that you're able to remove the tyres yourself for balancing in the first place.

    check this webby: Marc Parnes
    http://www.marcparnes.com/Honda_Moto...lancer.htm#SLW
    (balancers for other bikes also available)

    A sample of the balancer for SW looks like this:



    Does it work?
    http://silverwing.org/cgi-bin/topic_show.pl?tid=1741

    It is a simple steel mandrel which has two cones on it. After removing one of the cones, simply pass the mandrel thru the wheel hub and replace the cone which was removed.

    With the cones pressed firmly against the bores of the wheel hub, tighten the wing nuts on each cone to lock them to the mandrel.

    There are also low friction bearings at each end of the mandrel. Place the whole assembly on to two supports i.e. axel stands or even large engine oil containers and off you go.

    Full instructions and photo's are available on the marcparnes web site.

    Yes I do have one with cone adaptors for my Silverwing and also for my BMW R1150R. The tool is easy to use and works well. Usually take me about five to ten minutes per wheel.




    Last edited by scoobydoo; 23-08-2017 at 03:09 PM.
    ~
    Current Ride: FJS400 Silver Wing
    Trips:
    23~27 Dec 2014: 5D5N KL & Ipoh
    Scooby's blog http://scoobydooby-doo.blogspot.sg/
    Tech Corner http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

  46. #46
    Uncle
    is enjoying his new ride!
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    Default Tyre mounting / match balancing

    Articles on the yellow dot / red dot on tyres, how to mount tyres to use the least weights and minimise radial run-outs, and why it's done that way.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  47. #47
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    Hi
    Any recommend place to purchase and install a white colour headlight bulb, Not interested in HID. Thanks

  48. #48
    bigcow
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    Quote Originally Posted by LKW View Post
    Hi
    Any recommend place to purchase and install a white colour headlight bulb, Not interested in HID. Thanks
    dun use those lousy types like $10 to $20 per pair kind.
    use the Phillips Diamond Vision. Kind of ex. but the throw is far.
    but if u do ride in Malaysia, try not to use white bulbs. cos white light cannot penetrate through fog & mist.
    best is still yellow bulbs.
    TEAM RedBull Singapore

    Daniel aka bigcow +65 9105-0569

    ScooTourers: Have Scooter, Will Travel...

  49. #49
    SW9000
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    Bumpzzzzzzzz
    2017
    11 - 25 Nov - 15D, Taiwan - Fly and Scoot
    2018

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    Very useful thread...nice read...thanks to all the contributors.
    ...^_^
    Life is a journey...keep on walking

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