here's an article which i posted, b4 the database was corrupted. was too lazy to retyped it again... but since its a really good article n it might benefit ppl here... so wat the heck
The way you treat your engine, from cold start to switching off hot and ticking, has a huge effect on its life and performance
FORGET ALL THAT nonsense about sticking to rev limits for a certain number of miles, just ride normally, allowing the engine to rev freely (but not redlining) and never let it labour. Go up and down the gearbox and up and down the revs. Dont't sit on a motorway for hours hoping to speed up the process - it doesn't work.
Engine tuner Dave Setphenson, who's run in hundreds of bikes, has two tips:
"Find a long downhill stretch, get in top at about 50mph (80kph) and wait till the bike's pulling ahead of the engine, then whack the throttle open. When it starts to pull, shut it again. That causes a vacuum in the crankcase, pushes the piston rings against the cylinder walls and helps them bed in."
The second tip is not to use synthetic oil for running in. "It won't just slow the running in process, it ruins it - do 20 miles (32km) for new on synthetic and the engine'll need stripping." the bores and bearing surfaces end up polished and unable to hold a film of oil. the same thing happens when you run engines in too carefully
Most engine wear occurs in the few seconds after starting from cold. The oil is thicker can can't circulate, and while the bike was parked all the oil drained away from the top end of the engine. You can help circulation by cranking the starter for a few seconds wifh the kill switch off.
Modern sportsbikes are enve more at rick, as Dave explains: "Because they've only got sidestands, the oil drain away more from the right side of the engine. It's common to find big-end and main bearings porgressively worn across from number one, with number four scrap."
When you start the bike, don't let it race on choke, ride off as soon as it'll run evenly, be gentle with the throttle and give the oil a chance to warm up and circulate.
Ride it, don't tickle it
Engines are built with a particular duty cycle in mind. Lawnmowers are designed to run at one speed all day, but bike engines aren't. They're designed to rev (crusiers excepted). So you won't do your GSX-R any favours if you never take it above 6000rpm. Dave: "Engines last better if you use them fairly hard, and especially if you rev them throught the gears (not redlining, just letting them spin) instead of short shifting. It keep them clean and healthy. There's more damage done by people who sit at 60 all day than by lads doing track days." Watch out on down changes, though, change too early and you could over-rev the engine, bending valves in the process.
Don't get too good at wheelies
Bikes are designed with two whees, so if you choose to u se just one, you're outside the engine's design parameters. On most bikes, a lengthy wheelie will drain all the oil to the back of the crankcase, and away from the oil pick-up pipe, which can strave the bearings. Early Nineties Yamaha EXUPs and YZFs are particularly prone to this. On some bikes (notably Ducatis) you might even end up with most of the oil spat back out through the crankcase breather and into the airbox. So the better you get at them, the more damage you're likely to be doing to your engine.
One last thing
Everyone does it, and no-one knows why: that last blip of the throttle before you turn the engine off. If you have a Scott Squirrel two-stroke it might help clear the plugs, but for the rest of us it has the unhappy consequence of dumping a large shot neat fuel down the bores, washing the oil away. That means extra wear when your start up or corrosion if you leave it standing for too long. So don't do it.
Extracts from Bike April 2002
finally me no expert in these stuff.. me jus cut n pasted for a magazine...