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    STORM
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    hi guys , can intro some good coolant cos going to flush my coolant?
    by the way how to make sure there is no air bubble in the system when topiing up the coolant?
    Fcuk U! Kawasaki is back!

  2. #2
    StreetFighter63
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    My fren told me that the coolant that Caltex perol stn is selling is quite good. Never overheat one. To make sure so bubbles, after pouring in ur coolant, on ur engine and let itr running. if the coolant level drop, top up again. MAke sure rev ur throttle a few times then check again. If the level mantain ... then ur coolant enuff already lor .. hjeheheheheh .. Hope this helps.

     

     
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    hi guys , can intro some good coolant cos going to flush my coolant?
    by the way how to make sure there is no air bubble in the system when topiing up the coolant?
    Im using "ENGINE ICE" it cost me $35 including flushing,bascially it does not need to mix with water juz flush and pour..its blue in color..quite happy with it...cools off fast IMO.


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    hi guys , can intro some good coolant cos going to flush my coolant?
    by the way how to make sure there is no air bubble in the system when topiing up the coolant?
    Im using "ENGINE ICE" it cost me $35 including flushing,bascially it does not need to mix with water juz flush and pour..its blue in color..quite happy with it...cools off fast IMO.

    thanks guys
    Fcuk U! Kawasaki is back!

  5. #5
    ZZR-Pilot
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    To make sure so bubbles, after pouring in ur coolant, on ur engine and let itr running. if the coolant level drop, top up again. MAke sure rev ur throttle a few times then check again. If the level mantain ... then ur coolant enuff already lor .. hjeheheheheh .. Hope this helps.
    To get rid of air locks & bubbles inside the cooling system, I use the easy way - let the heat cycle take care of it! When running at operating temp, the coolant inside heats up and expands. This in itself will push the air out through the radiator cap. When the radiator cools down, the coolant contracts and sucks spare coolant from the expansion bottle.

    Some bikes like mine are a b!tch to start while filling up the radiator (the petrol tank must be removed altogether to access the radiator). So I'd just fill up the radiator as much as it can go, then overfill the expansion bottle slightly past the 'max' line to allow the heat cycle top off the cooling system by itself. Kaotim! After that you can ride the bike as usual - just keep an eye on the spare coolant level in the expansion bottle. When it settles in the next few days (which means the cooling system has been totally purged of air bubbles), then just refill the bottle to the proper level. That's all, no need to start engine & rev.

    If you radiator is easily accessible, then Streetfighter's method can be used.

  6. #6
    aiya4
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    I have a question

    I ride S4vtec, If lets say I wanna remove the bubbles, I topup new coolant into the radiator, I switch on bike and rev abit, but at this point of time, my fuel tank was removed, how to let the bike rev without petrol? Wouldn't that spoil the engine? If lets say the carb hold a certain amount of petrol without the fuel tank, how long can we let the bike run idle without depleting the fuel and cause potential damage to the engine?

    gum sia many many....

  7. #7
    ZZR-Pilot
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    I have a question

    I ride S4vtec, If lets say I wanna remove the bubbles, I topup new coolant into the radiator, I switch on bike and rev abit, but at this point of time, my fuel tank was removed, how to let the bike rev without petrol? Wouldn't that spoil the engine? If lets say the carb hold a certain amount of petrol without the fuel tank, how long can we let the bike run idle without depleting the fuel and cause potential damage to the engine?

    gum sia many many....
    I had just made a posting on how to get rid of air bubbles in your cooling system without bothering to start the engine and rev it while topping up the radiator. It's right up there.

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    aiya4
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    To get rid of air locks & bubbles inside the cooling system, I use the easy way - let the heat cycle take care of it! When running at operating temp, the coolant inside heats up and expands. This in itself will push the air out through the radiator cap. When the radiator cools down, the coolant contracts and sucks spare coolant from the expansion bottle.

    Some bikes like mine are a b!tch to start while filling up the radiator (the petrol tank must be removed altogether to access the radiator). So I'd just fill up the radiator as much as it can go, then overfill the expansion bottle slightly past the 'max' line to allow the heat cycle top off the cooling system by itself. Kaotim! After that you can ride the bike as usual - just keep an eye on the spare coolant level in the expansion bottle. When it settles in the next few days (which means the cooling system has been totally purged of air bubbles), then just refill the bottle to the proper level. That's all, no need to start engine & rev
    You mean the expansion bottle is the spare bottle which is normally at the back of the bike? When you say running at operating temperature, what do you actually mean? Ok i tell you my idea regarding your method, you correct me ok?

    1. Top up coolant till max at radiator
    2. Close radiator cap
    3. Fill expansion bottle to abit higher than max level
    4. Switch on and run bike <-- at this point you mean to ride or rev at idle? At this point the cap of the radiator is closed tight, how does the bubbles/air escape?
    5. Check expansion bottle and topup to recommended level if necessary. <-- will the level of the coolant in the expansion bottle not reduce under your method? What if it still stays at higher than max level? Or 100% it will reduce level?

    Thanks

  9. #9
    ZZR-Pilot
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    1. Top up coolant till max at radiator
    2. Close radiator cap
    3. Fill expansion bottle to abit higher than max level
    4. Switch on and run bike <-- at this point you mean to ride or rev at idle? At this point the cap of the radiator is closed tight, how does the bubbles/air escape?
    5. Check expansion bottle and topup to recommended level if necessary. <-- will the level of the coolant in the expansion bottle not reduce under your method? What if it still stays at higher than max level? Or 100% it will reduce level?
    All correct.

    No 4 = ride the bike like usual lor. Doesn't have to be immediately. You can ride it to work the next day. Just as long as you work the engine to operating temperature so that the coolant expands and pushes the air out. When it cools, it sucks the extra coolant in. This is what you call the heat cycle. After several heat cycles, there'll be no more air inside your cooling system.

    As for the radiator cap, well you must know that a radiator cap isn't like a bottle cap. Look at the radiator filler neck. See the little drain hole that connects to the tube running to the expansion bottle? Now look at the radiator cap - notice the spring underneath? A radiator cap, together with the hole on the filler neck, act as a safety valve. If the pressure inside a radiator increases beyond a certain point (measured in bar), the pressure will push and compress the spring. This allows the radiator to puke thru the hole and into your expansion bottle to relieve the pressure. When you get home & switch off the engine, the radiator cools and as it cools the coolant contracts. If there isn't enough coolant, the contraction will make the pressure inside the radiator drop. This will suck the spring and make it extend downwards, allowing the vacuum to suck extra coolant from the expansion bottle to replace any loss.

    No 5 = If your radiator cap is in working order, the coolant level in your expansion bottle *will* drop. Unless the bugger is all rusted out and seized solid, in which case you should replace it anyway. A seized cap may not help the radiator vent excess pressure... no prizes for guessing what'll happen then.

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    aiya4
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    Oh.... NOW I know.. thanx man ZZR, I learnt alot

    Ok so lets say I die die use StreetFighter's method, meaning I will be removing my fuel tank and rev to make the coolant level drop. So will this method damage the carbs or engine? cos I keep having this idea that without fuel in the fuel tank to run the bike, or just using that small amount of fuel in the carbs to rev the bike(what if the fuel depletes), it will damage my carbs or engine.

    Anyone any opinions?

  11. #11
    ZZR-Pilot
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    Oh.... NOW I know.. thanx man ZZR, I learnt alot

    Ok so lets say I die die use StreetFighter's method, meaning I will be removing my fuel tank and rev to make the coolant level drop. So will this method damage the carbs or engine? cos I keep having this idea that without fuel in the fuel tank to run the bike, or just using that small amount of fuel in the carbs to rev the bike(what if the fuel depletes), it will damage my carbs or engine.

    Anyone any opinions?
    Carb bowls will hold some fuel. How long it'll last, I dunno. If the carb bowls run dry after you run the engine without the tank, no damage will be done. It'll be like running out of petrol on the road lah. But a bit paiseh afterwards cos after you attach the tank, you gotta prime the carbs again (refill the carb bowls by selecting prime or PRI on the fuel tap and wait a while). From my experience, restarting a bike after the carbs have dried can be a b!tch sometimes.

    But I don't think the carbs will go dry if you just start the bike and rev it a few times to fill up the radiator properly. I don't do it that way because I couldn't be bothered to. Just fill up, re-attach the tank and go.

     

     
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    Oh.... NOW I know.. thanx man ZZR, I learnt alot

    Ok so lets say I die die use StreetFighter's method, meaning I will be removing my fuel tank and rev to make the coolant level drop. So will this method damage the carbs or engine? cos I keep having this idea that without fuel in the fuel tank to run the bike, or just using that small amount of fuel in the carbs to rev the bike(what if the fuel depletes), it will damage my carbs or engine.

    Anyone any opinions?
    went to do my coolant today , actually no need to rev for the first few pours of coolant just rock the bike left n right , the coolant will go down.
    after rocking the bike after a few pours the coolant wun go down then its time to start the bike n give it a little rev , the petrol in the cabr will last u till the radiator is full
    hope this helps!
    Fcuk U! Kawasaki is back!

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    hi guys , can intro some good coolant cos going to flush my coolant?
    by the way how to make sure there is no air bubble in the system when topiing up the coolant?
    Im using "ENGINE ICE" it cost me $35 including flushing,bascially it does not need to mix with water juz flush and pour..its blue in color..quite happy with it...cools off fast IMO.

    is it flushing solution or coolant? I wanna flush 1st before topping with new coolants. Any idea where to get good flushing solution?

  14. #14
    StreetFighter63
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    hi guys , can intro some good coolant cos going to flush my coolant?
    by the way how to make sure there is no air bubble in the system when topiing up the coolant?
    Im using "ENGINE ICE" it cost me $35 including flushing,bascially it does not need to mix with water juz flush and pour..its blue in color..quite happy with it...cools off fast IMO.
    Maybe ur bike is a 2-stroke machine and that is why u find it good. Few of my frens riding 4-stroke machines who used that Engine Ice says that it's terrible. The bike gets heated up fast. One of them riding Hayabusa says he needs 2 bottles of that coolant to make his coolant full. Imagine spending $70 on coolant and find that ur engine gets heated up faster?

  15. #15
    StreetFighter63
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    I have yet to personally go and see the product myself to see what's the ingredient. My fren told me that his bike gets heated up faster than usual. What he meant was in everyday context of moving and not stuck in jam. Stuck in jam sure very fast hot mah.

  16. #16
    StreetFighter63
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    Alamak ... at what temp that one I never ask lah ... but the bike did not overheat.

  17. #17
    StreetFighter63
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    What's the use of having a hotter bike than normal days (although in working range) after u used an expensive coolant?

  18. #18
    StreetFighter63
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    What's good for u may not be good for me. So what's the point for u to say that whatever I said is wrong? If u think it's good .. go ahead and use it. I'm merely stating what I've been told as a precaution to others. Lot's of people here are giving misleading and info which is not true. Go and correct them also lah .. why only me?

  19. #19
    StreetFighter63
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    I didn't say the lower the temparature, the better. What I said was .. why have a higher temp bike after using an expensive coolant when ur temp is lower and ur bike is functioning while using a cheaper coolant??

  20. #20
    StreetFighter63
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    I dun think that I'm contradicting myself. Which is better? A cooler engine which runs smoothly or a hotter engine which runs smoothly? For me, I'll definitely go for the cooler engine. So why pay more to have a hotter engine when u can spend less with a cooler engine when both engines can run smoothly? Can u see that there are 2 points that I'm stating here? One is cost effective, the other one is having a cooler engine but still runs smoothly.

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    Well ... if u want numbers .. then I got nothing to say. I dun have the facts u needed. So if I'm wrong .. sorry then.

     

     
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    Anyone know where to get Castrol Coolant?

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    flushed out my vtec1 radiator today.
    quite a chore. couldn't even get the fuel tank completely off.
    anyway, pored in a radiator flush in the morning, and then ran some errands on my bike.
    came back, waited an hr for the engine to cool, then drained the radiator. poured in distilled water for a clean flush. afterwhich, poured in abt 250ml of concentrated coolant and 1.5l of distilled water.
    will go riding again tomorrow to see whats the diff...
    Be sure, not slow.

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    Anyone know where to get Castrol Coolant?
    Castrol Radicool (pre-mixed with ionised water)
    BP petrol kiosk.
    $3.50 per 500ml bottle.
    ---------A LIFE IN THE FAST LANE! ------->
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    Castrol Radicool (pre-mixed with ionised water)
    BP petrol kiosk.
    $3.50 per 500ml bottle.
    Thanks but I think that's for car I'm looking for this one http://217.37.205.213:1027/castrol/ancilla...ain_coolant.htm but can't find

  26. #26
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    hi people.i;m riding a TZR now and as u all know that TZR doesnt have a temp gauge to see what's the temp of the engine.just wanna ask how do we know whether the engine has overheated?i actually can feel the diff between the performance of the bike on hot and on cool day.riding on cool day is better than riding on hot day.is it because of the coolant and the temp if the engine?

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    Thanks but I think that's for car I'm looking for this one http://217.37.205.213:1027/castrol/ancilla...ain_coolant.htm but can't find
    Castrol Radicool can be use on Motorcycles ... anyway haben seen tt castrol motorcycle coolant u mention above here in sg yet ... mayb diff country selling different product n packaging !

  28. #28
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    I'm using Engine Ice. Cools down fast, heats up fast. Many times My bike is operating at 100-110degree C in normal road riding whenever I stop or riding slow speed. But its good for track use since it can cool down very fast whenever its on the move with a reasonable speed. Much faster cooling than when I use Castrol Radicool on the move. Aided with wind on the radiator while moving, it could dip my temperature gauge by 10Deg C with one traffic light junction. But it'll build up heat very fast again.

    I find no point spending $30 per 1.89litre of ENGINE ICE. I'd have gotten something much cheaper and performs just as well.

    Do Not Tailgate Me!

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    hi people.i;m riding a TZR now and as u all know that TZR doesnt have a temp gauge to see what's the temp of the engine.just wanna ask how do we know whether the engine has overheated?i actually can feel the diff between the performance of the bike on hot and on cool day.riding on cool day is better than riding on hot day.is it because of the coolant and the temp if the engine?
    i personaly feel that riding at warm temp(not hot) feel better then cool leh...
    maybe different bike so have different feeling..
    but last time when i rdie kips.. i still feel the same as it will be more smooth while it warm then it cool...
    when at night i always leave my bike on for a while to let it warm.. coz it feel smoother when riding...
    i use the word warm not hot.. if hot.. the power delevery seems like abit delay ....

  30. #30
    Royal
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    why is it like that ah?for me riding on cool wheather is better...why is it like that?

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    maybe different bike got differnt feeling lor..
    even different person will effect the result too mah...
    but u meant cold weather u feel better or cold engine?
    what i saying is the engine not the weather..

     

     
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    yo bros.... is it eas yto do flushing ourselve? if so.... how to do it n where to buy the stuff?
    I LOVE u RS. Please dont breakdown. I\'m BROKE!!!

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    Saw this brand 'Total' coolant, 4 litres selling for $9 at Carrefour. Is it ok to use on bikes and what are the harmful ingredient to look out for??

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    here's another write-out abt coolant ...



    The Importance of Coolant Replacement

    Had the coolant changed in your motorcycle lately?

    Coolant in many motorcycles is horribly neglected. Various studies have concluded that about a third of all vehicles have coolant that needs attention. This attention being either coolant addition or coolant replacement.

    If the coolant level is low, it's easy enough to fix. Just top it off and go, right? Not necessarily.

    Even if the coolant is still electric green and appears as if it is new, it could be devoid of the corrosion-fighting additives that are most important to the health of your cooling system.

    The rate of cooling system corrosion is determined by a single factor: the acidity of the coolant. If the coolant remains alkaline, corrosion is inhibited. But if it breaks down and becomes acidic, the coolant begins to eat away at the interior of the cooling system. The long-term effects of old, acidic coolant in the cooling system can be detrimental to a motorcycle's overall condition. How? Coolant neglect causes corroded and mineral clogged radiators, eroded aluminum cylinder heads, eroded water pumps, seals, and housings, rotted radiator hoses, blown head gaskets and chronic overheating. Sounds expensive, doesn't it?

    Another problem with coolant, which is not detectable just by looking at it, is the concentration of antifreeze to water within the mixture. Often the amount of antifreeze within the cooling system is much greater than the 50/50 antifreeze-water mix that is recommended by motorcycle manufacturers. This problem usually occurs when a low radiator or coolant reservoir is just "topped off".

    Having too much antifreeze in the cooling system actually robs your motorcycle horsepower in two ways. How? Antifreeze's viscosity (a liquid's thickness) is much greater than water's. Meaning, if there is too much antifreeze in the system, then the water pump has to work harder in order to push the same amount of fluid. If the water pump is working harder, the engine is working harder and less efficiently. And for many of us, any significant decrease in crank horsepower is just unacceptable. Too much antifreeze in the cooling system also does not transfer heat as efficiently as a proper mixture. Consequently, higher running temperatures are a result. Definitely not a good thing!

    Changing the coolant doesn't just mean draining the radiator and refilling it either. Doing just those two things may leave a substantial amount of the old, acidic coolant, which is also contaminated with minerals and impurities, within the engine and the cooling system components. A complete coolant change entails draining the radiator, back-flushing the entire system, then adding a correctly balanced 50/50 mixture of fresh distilled (or de-ionized) water and fresh antifreeze, and pressure testing the cooling system.

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    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forum/viewto...opic.php?t=4849

    read and digest, the aswer lies in there

    Thanks, I will check and see if the 'Total' brand of coolant contain silicate, if not should safe to use right?

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    seriously, u can consider Engine Ice if u wanna....
    My bike req 2.7L in the main plus 300ml coolant in the reserve, its a heavy sum of $$ with EI.

    Currently I'm using the Putoline coolant, $5/L, from LAB, works fine on my bike, wan to try if Total is the next cheaper alternative.

  37. #37
    ZZR-Pilot
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    yo bros.... is it eas yto do flushing ourselve? if so.... how to do it n where to buy the stuff?
    Dead easy on my car. But slightly more hassle on my bike, coz need to remove my fuel tank to get to the radiator cap.

  38. #38
    Jade
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    A few questions:

    1) Change coolant must flush it first?

    2) How often do we have to change coolant?

    3) How do we know it's time to change then?


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    Its better to flush the radiator to get rid of all the scale when changing coolant.

    Change it every 2 years as recommended by my service manaul, but if you kia Su/Si, change it yearly.

    When the bike always overheat then its time to flush your radiator, and change the coolant.

    Also its recommended to change the radiator hose every 4 years as recommded in the service manual. Or you wait till it leaks then change.

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    On my FireBlade, when I'm stationary under hot sun, it maxes to 102 celcius During riding, the temperature ranges from 80+ to 90+ celcius, never below. I'll be happy to get between 50-80.

    This could be due to the climate here. What are the temperature readings on you guys' bikes? Care to share?

    Bike Model:
    Stationary Temperature Range:
    Riding Temperature Range:

  41. #41
    pufferfis
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    Its better to flush the radiator to get rid of all the scale when changing coolant.

    Change it every 2 years as recommended by my service manaul, but if you kia Su/Si, change it yearly.

    When the bike always overheat then its time to flush your radiator, and change the coolant.

    Also its recommended to change the radiator hose every 4 years as recommded in the service manual. Or you wait till it leaks then change.
    wat do u flush ur radiator with?...do u pour the product in ..then later drain it out?..any recommendations wat to flush e radiator w?

     

     
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    Thank you for your query.

    The coolant (SuperCool) that we sell at our service stations is not
    silicate free (it's has low silicate content). The majority of the
    vehicles in Singapore is still able to use this coolant. It will
    not cause premature wear of water pump seals or radiator passages blockage.
    The advantage of using silicate free coolant (also known as Organic acid
    coolant) is that it offers longer drain interval advantage. We have such
    a product in Europe but has yet to bring into S'pore due to lack of demand.

    Please feel free to contact us for any further clarification.

    With Best Regards
    Jimmy Tan P H
    Technical Services Manager, Singapore
    Tel : +(65) 6263 2032 Mobile : +(65) 9782 0171
    Fax : +(65) 6263 2049
    e-mail : jimmy.ph.tan@shell.com

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    Hmmm, I don't think I'm taking any chances with my bike. Anyone here can recommend a high quality ethylene glycol based coolant that is silicate free?

  44. #44
    djugashvili
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    how do I know when I should replace/top up my coolant?

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    hi people.i;m riding a TZR now and as u all know that TZR doesnt have a temp gauge to see what's the temp of the engine.just wanna ask how do we know whether the engine has overheated?i actually can feel the diff between the performance of the bike on hot and on cool day.riding on cool day is better than riding on hot day.is it because of the coolant and the temp if the engine?
    can try fix temp gauge for ur bike... me oso finding one...

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    how do I know when I should replace/top up my coolant?
    i think need to check coolant level every now & then...

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    Engine Ice.
    pricey though
    any cheap suggestions for flushing radiator??

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    anytime you're changing (or taking out for whatever reason) your coolant, flush the system with a simple 50/50 dilution of Water and WHITE DISTILLED VINEGAR (available at your local grocery store). Fill the system with the solution, start the motor, allow it to get warm, then cool the motor and drain. The vinegar solution is acidic enough to remove and deposits inside your engine and well as "scrub off" and residue from your old coolant product...but it isn't harmful to your delicate seals and gaskets like an automotive radiator flush would be....BTW - After you flush with the solution, remember to run some clear water through to get the vinegar out.

    it cannot get any cheaper
    huh??? tat's sounds very cheap!!! thks a lot mate, y definitely try it out...

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    Where can i purchase the Engine Ice?

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    I wish to change the coolant and flush the radiator. I have read the whole topic on this, but maybe i'm too slow . I can't unthestand how to do is. Can any kind one to reply me a step by step for change coolant and flushing of the radiator??? Pls say a few coolant that is good and which is good to flush the radiator too. Thank you very much....

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