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Thread: [Group] SUZUKI Bandit

  1. #2501
    S750WP
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    Originally posted by jkaiser@Feb 16 2005, 03:00 PM
    costs more than the plates? hmm so the idea is change plates will improve the situation but it wun be solved until u change the sleeves too?

    i using royal purple...full syn...cheap lah..no money...10 bucks per 900ml
    Margaret quote me $250 to change the clutch plates and clutch sleeve hub.

    Assume the following price at Guan Hoe

    Engine oil 3L, $18 * 3 = $54
    Clutch Plates $85
    Gasket $7
    Workmanship $49

    Then clutch sleeve hub will be $104. Have you tried using better fully syn oil? it helps in clutch shifting and I have read some riders avoid expensive repair by changing to better oil. I have tried Repsol fully syn on mine and it doesnt help in gear shifting when the bike is hot during traffic jam however engine very smooth compare to Total 4T.

    My haynes manual says if indention are deep on the clutch housing they can prevent clutch release, which means the clutch plate are still engage when you clutch in which make gear shifting difficult, and it must be replace. If the indention can be remove easily with a file the housing life span can be extend.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Originally posted by RG@Feb 16 2005, 04:05 PM
    Even if u ask Mr Han(the boss), he'll tell u the same thing.
    By the way, Hazzan is not new, in fact he is quite experienced.
    Most bike shop will tell you to change because they make more $$.

    I prefer bike shop which check the parts to see if its spoilt before advicing the customer need to change or not. And I have read planet motorcycle will not change parts unneccessarily, unless its unrepairable.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

     

     
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    Originally posted by DREAM_MACHINE@Feb 16 2005, 06:18 PM
    I'm also having the same clutch problems..i wonder watz needed to be change..
    upgear is easy..but down gear kinda hard..
    the bike also move jus a bit when engaging gear one..
    I'm using Castrol HD engine oil..$20 for 5 ltrs.
    Wanna check wit u guys,where are ur I.U units mounted?on the side wit bracket?
    I'm looking for bracket to mount the I.U on the center(like S4)..any lobangs?or do i hav to go custom make one?
    Have you check your clutch cable free play? Try to use better engine oil (e.g Mobil, Fuchs, Motul Fully syn oil before going for the more expensive repair e.g replacing the clutch plates?

    Go to Mah motor, opp SLT, they sell the IU bracket for $15, I got mine installed there. If not can ask the Super 4 forummer, they use the pipe clamp, $3 to mount their IU unit on the handle bar.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Went to SLT and got all the capactors, even the high temp ones 105 degree c is available. Check the new capacitors, they too exhibit high resistance at first and the value slowly dropping, maybe the old capacitors are ok. Anyway going to solder them on the board this sunday, should be very easy because there is a soldering station at my work place.

    Saw the casing at SLT, couldn't find the size I want, may need to get a slightly bigger one to see if can fit under the seat once the board is tested ok on the bike.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    My spare CDI board which I have already desolder the capacitor. The second picture I draw red arrow to show where the old caps used to be.



    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Originally posted by S750WP@Feb 16 2005, 08:38 PM
    My spare CDI board which I have already desolder the capacitor. The second picture I draw red arrow to show where the old caps used to be.



    Ya my capacitor also same location as urs... The casing after solder i just use black tape tape all over... dunno how long it will last... hehehehe...

    BURN RUBBER NOT YOUR SOUL - My 3 babies

  7. #2507
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    Originally posted by jkaiser@Feb 16 2005, 03:00 PM
    costs more than the plates? hmm so the idea is change plates will improve the situation but it wun be solved until u change the sleeves too?

    i using royal purple...full syn...cheap lah..no money...10 bucks per 900ml
    Where u buy tht royal purple ar?

    Gary: How is CDI project?sucessful? .... damn i work 15 hours a day man....dunno when got time to meet up

    Kenneth
    Kenneth

    Leisure riding...explore riding... but not FREE RIDING

    Telur sebiji, riuh sekampung! - (Direct translation) Lay one egg, tell whole village

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    Originally posted by DatsunKing@Feb 16 2005, 01:42 AM
    BTW when you free? i wanna fix the horn... U still have?
    As for d horns, I left wif one set. Currently, wanting for them to sent over....

    I pass to U my Used CDI on my next DIY session...
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    Originally posted by S750WP@Feb 16 2005, 05:54 AM
    How is your gear shifting after you change the clutch plate at planet motorcycles, did you change the clutch spring and clutch release bearing?
    Better but he told me my clutch hosing is gone. Tat happen 3 mth back...

    I just got a few items for K.S motorcycles company today.

    Clutch Housing X1 - 21200-34843 - $170
    Clutch Cable X1 - 582000-100 - $20
    Clutch Release X1 - 23200-3200 - $32
    Clutch Casket X1 - 11482-32011 - $10
    Clutch Spring X5 - 09440-15031 - $20

    Total $252

    Hope this price list n product no will help u guys if u wanna buy these product.
    Going to change these stuff tat i brought today on this Sat. Will give U guys a feedback when install.
    Honda NSR 150 SP - FT4977D (June 01 - March 03)
    Honda CBR 400 RR- FL2119U (Dec 02 - Jan 04)
    Honda CBR 929 RR - FS4382A (Feb 04 - Dec 04)
    Susuki Hayabusa 1300- FX9524Z (April 05 - Oct 05)
    Susuki Bandit400- FL3540D (Mar 03 - Dec 05)
    Honda Super 4 Spec 3 - FZ9528C (Dec 05 - Jan 07)
    Honda Walve125S - FW8025J (Aug 06 - June 07)
    Yamaha Spark135 LE - FBB4..7C (March 07 - ???)

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    Originally posted by chee_teck@Feb 17 2005, 01:23 AM
    Where u buy tht royal purple ar?

    Gary: How is CDI project?sucessful? .... damn i work 15 hours a day man....dunno when got time to meet up

    Kenneth
    It's okay. If ure boss dun pay U OT, tell me, I go MOM complain him... Make our poor Gary super overwork...
    Honda NSR 150 SP - FT4977D (June 01 - March 03)
    Honda CBR 400 RR- FL2119U (Dec 02 - Jan 04)
    Honda CBR 929 RR - FS4382A (Feb 04 - Dec 04)
    Susuki Hayabusa 1300- FX9524Z (April 05 - Oct 05)
    Susuki Bandit400- FL3540D (Mar 03 - Dec 05)
    Honda Super 4 Spec 3 - FZ9528C (Dec 05 - Jan 07)
    Honda Walve125S - FW8025J (Aug 06 - June 07)
    Yamaha Spark135 LE - FBB4..7C (March 07 - ???)

  11. #2511
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    Go to Mah motor, opp SLT, they sell the IU bracket for $15, I got mine installed there. If not can ask the Super 4 forummer, they use the pipe clamp, $3 to mount their IU unit on the handle bar.

    S750WP>>u mean urs is the center bracket?

     

     
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    Originally posted by kata_killer@Feb 17 2005, 01:33 AM
    Better but he told me my clutch hosing is gone. Tat happen 3 mth back...

    I just got a few items for K.S motorcycles company today.

    Clutch Housing X1 - 21200-34843 - $170
    Clutch Cable X1 - 582000-100 - $20
    Clutch Release X1 - 23200-3200 - $32
    Clutch Casket X1 - 11482-32011 - $10
    Clutch Spring X5 - 09440-15031 - $20

    Total $252

    Hope this price list n product no will help u guys if u wanna buy these product.
    Going to change these stuff tat i brought today on this Sat. Will give U guys a feedback when install.
    The clutch housing is ex!!! and the repair not yet include engine oil change and workmanship.

    Do you hear a slight rattling sound during idle coming from your bike and when you clutch in the sound will be gone? tell tale sign of clutch housing worn out and bike shop commonly called it clutch housing loose.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Originally posted by DREAM_MACHINE@Feb 17 2005, 08:43 AM
    Go to Mah motor, opp SLT, they sell the IU bracket for $15, I got mine installed there. If not can ask the Super 4 forummer, they use the pipe clamp, $3 to mount their IU unit on the handle bar.

    S750WP>>u mean urs is the center bracket?
    Mine is mounted on the handle bar clamp, they remove one of the screw and mount the IU holder there. The centre one should have also but I didn;t ask Jefferey how much is it.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Originally posted by silver@Feb 9 2005, 02:58 PM
    Hi sgss,

    hard to meet another 600 rider. I usually see the 1200 bandit.
    can see that you are riding the generation2 bandit.
    Mine is the 1st generation (got to call her jie jie)
    silver,
    maybe got to see your bike to compare, cuz i got no knowledge of bandit/suzuki at all. i used to ride hornet 600 till i sold it. just take over this 600 from my bro few months back only.
    just got my fork stuffs done at planet motor. not sure y but still feels the suspension not good esp when i turn (i don't do cornering )
    sg

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    Originally posted by chee_teck@Feb 17 2005, 01:23 AM
    Where u buy tht royal purple ar?

    Gary: How is CDI project?sucessful? .... damn i work 15 hours a day man....dunno when got time to meet up

    Kenneth
    Get something better to pamper your engine lah, work so much OT. Try Motul300v, Fuch Pro4 plus or Redline engine oil, hearing good feedback on these oil.

    Going to solder the capacitors this sunday when I go to work, hopefully it will work and I will have a spare CDI..
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Originally posted by sgss@Feb 17 2005, 09:09 AM
    silver,
    maybe got to see your bike to compare, cuz i got no knowledge of bandit/suzuki at all. i used to ride hornet 600 till i sold it. just take over this 600 from my bro few months back only.
    just got my fork stuffs done at planet motor. not sure y but still feels the suspension not good esp when i turn (i don't do cornering )
    GO back and complain to the boss Ah Chong. Anyway the Bandit fork spring are weak in the first place, if got $$ can change to a better after market one. I read from the old Bandit post there is a guy, DCspare, selling off his Bandit fork spring and rear shock for Bandit1200 maybe can fit onto your bike.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

  17. #2517
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    Originally posted by S750WP@Feb 17 2005, 09:10 AM
    Get something better to pamper your engine lah, work so much OT. Try Motul300v, Fuch Pro4 plus or Redline engine oil, hearing good feedback on these oil.

    Going to solder the capacitors this sunday when I go to work, hopefully it will work and I will have a spare CDI..
    if use better oil in ecchange for not changing clutch housing...i think forget it..since better oil is only temp solution

    chee_teck...RP oil @ tanjong pagar plaza
    From the ice cream man bike aka my little black lamb RX100..to All Blacks Bandit 400, to the legendary 1285 bandit

    NUS Students' Motorcycling Interest Group "NUSRiders" Forum
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    Originally posted by jkaiser@Feb 17 2005, 01:41 PM
    if use better oil in ecchange for not changing clutch housing...i think forget it..since better oil is only temp solution

    chee_teck...RP oil @ tanjong pagar plaza
    Hard to shift gear may not be just your clutch housing or clutch plate worn, it maybe the low grade of oil you are using. And changing to a better oil may solve your problem. You maybe surprise your clutch plate may still look brand new when you take them out.

    Even though you change new housing and clutch plate but still continue to use low grade of engine oil you will still experience difficult is gear shifting. Get my drift?

    Btw good oil protect your engine and save you $$ for engine overhaul in the long term, its your call.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Wats the best oil to use?any recommends bros?

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    Yee ha...I just open the clutch cover and remove all the clutch plate

    Tools needed for the operation

    5mm allen key
    8mm wrench
    17mm wrench
    21mm wrench
    Rubber mallet
    Cable tie x 2
    Oil container
    Rags

    You will be surprise changing clutch plate is easier than removing the carburetor.

    Procedures

    a. Park the bike on side stand and drain the engine oil, use 21mm wrench for the drain bolt.
    b. Loosen and remove the 5mm allen bolts, take note 2 of the bolts are longer, mark those.
    c. Tap around the clutch cover with mallet to loosen it up and remove the cover
    d. Hold the generator rotor with 17mm wrench and loosen the pressure plate 8mm bolts in a criss cross manner.
    e. Remove the 8mm bolts, spring and specer.
    f. Remove the clutch plates one by one and arrange them in order then secure it in a bundle with cable tie so you can remember the order of installation later.

    Preliminary inspection

    a. The gasket is in one piece and reuseable
    b. Clutch release bearing in good condition
    c. Clutch spring all the same length will check the spec of the serviceable length
    d. The metal plate no burnt mark, will check on my mosac with feeler gauge
    e. The fibre material plate looks very thin and some of them very dry, will measure to confirm
    f. The clutch housing looks normal to me couldn't feel any burs on then, will check throughly again.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Originally posted by DREAM_MACHINE@Feb 17 2005, 04:09 PM
    Wats the best oil to use?any recommends bros?
    Fuch Pro plus, Motul300V, Redline engine oil. All this oil cost $20 and above per litre.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

     

     
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    Btw you need to have clutch sleeve holder if you want to change the clutch sleeve housing. I tried engaging first gear and jam on my rear brake still the housing will turn. The holder can be fabricated with 2 long piece of metal plates according to my haynes manual.

    And to remove the primary gear, the outer housing, for inspection the generator needs to be remove first and that requires another special tool.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    The clutch plates, spring, push rod, bearing and pressure plate.

    Found only the inner most metal plate got 2 burnt mark and one layer of black coating(I suspect its the fibre material) which I wipe off easily. The burnt mark I use scotch brite to polish off.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Originally posted by S750WP@Feb 17 2005, 08:59 AM
    Do you hear a slight rattling sound during idle coming from your bike and when you clutch in the sound will be gone? tell tale sign of clutch housing worn out and bike shop commonly called it clutch housing loose.
    I hear a slight rattling sound during idle coming out from my bike and when I clutch in, more worst... tat y i need to chaNGE those stuff.
    Honda NSR 150 SP - FT4977D (June 01 - March 03)
    Honda CBR 400 RR- FL2119U (Dec 02 - Jan 04)
    Honda CBR 929 RR - FS4382A (Feb 04 - Dec 04)
    Susuki Hayabusa 1300- FX9524Z (April 05 - Oct 05)
    Susuki Bandit400- FL3540D (Mar 03 - Dec 05)
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    Originally posted by S750WP@Feb 17 2005, 01:59 PM

    Hard to shift gear may not be just your clutch housing or clutch plate worn, it maybe the low grade of oil you are using. And changing to a better oil may solve your problem. You maybe surprise your clutch plate may still look brand new when you take them out.

    Even though you change new housing and clutch plate but still continue to use low grade of engine oil you will still experience difficult is gear shifting. Get my drift?

    Btw good oil protect your engine and save you $$ for engine overhaul in the long term, its your call.
    ok i'm not sure about this, but y do u assume that RP is poor oil... pampering bike is one thing, but @ the expense of burning ur own pocket, esp when i'm a student..i think twice
    From the ice cream man bike aka my little black lamb RX100..to All Blacks Bandit 400, to the legendary 1285 bandit

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    Originally posted by jkaiser@Feb 17 2005, 10:22 PM
    ok i'm not sure about this, but y do u assume that RP is poor oil... pampering bike is one thing, but @ the expense of burning ur own pocket, esp when i'm a student..i think twice
    As for me, I dun really agree to wat u say. My statement will be d same as S750WP. I will change gd stuff on my bike n dun think I will save $$ in any part tat need to be used on d bike. I always wan my things to be perfect, free from any problem. Dun wish to call tow truck in d middle on d road....

    Just my 2 cents worth of comments. Dun get offended huh...
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    Originally posted by kata_killer@Feb 18 2005, 12:16 AM
    As for me, I dun really agree to wat u say. My statement will be d same as S750WP. I will change gd stuff on my bike n dun think I will save $$ in any part tat need to be used on d bike. I always wan my things to be perfect, free from any problem. Dun wish to call tow truck in d middle on d road....

    Just my 2 cents worth of comments. Dun get offended huh...
    eh no problem..it's a forum..we all have our own views...well i dun think i'm ill-treating my bike, since i bought it, i've been changing parts bit by bit..and even though i dun do own servicing i've learnt alot from u ppl here...i just feel that i should not spend excessivly on bike and cause myself to suffer in other areas.. got extra money then spend lor...if not..wait for money to come in lah
    From the ice cream man bike aka my little black lamb RX100..to All Blacks Bandit 400, to the legendary 1285 bandit

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    Originally posted by jkaiser@Feb 18 2005, 12:50 AM
    eh no problem..it's a forum..we all have our own views...well i dun think i'm ill-treating my bike, since i bought it, i've been changing parts bit by bit..and even though i dun do own servicing i've learnt alot from u ppl here...i just feel that i should not spend excessivly on bike and cause myself to suffer in other areas.. got extra money then spend lor...if not..wait for money to come in lah
    I agree... Since u r student dun spend too much on bike... Cos u dun earn or get much pocket $$$... Unles u r rich then different story lor...

    BURN RUBBER NOT YOUR SOUL - My 3 babies

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    Originally posted by jkaiser@Feb 18 2005, 12:50 AM
    eh no problem..it's a forum..we all have our own views...well i dun think i'm ill-treating my bike, since i bought it, i've been changing parts bit by bit..and even though i dun do own servicing i've learnt alot from u ppl here...i just feel that i should not spend excessivly on bike and cause myself to suffer in other areas.. got extra money then spend lor...if not..wait for money to come in lah
    Sorry if I offended you, I never say RP is a bad oil because I have never use it before.
    I am only making a suggestion maybe you can try other better oil (that has good review among bikers) to see if it help in your gear shifting problem so as to avoid the hefty cost of clutch repair. Also I did not imply that you are ill treating your bike, I only make this joke to Kenneth.

    Btw I'm am not rich also and I'm doing my bike bit by bit like you. I was a student like you before and I know $$ dun come easy.
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    Originally posted by S750WP@Feb 18 2005, 02:17 AM
    Sorry if I offended you, I never say RP is a bad oil because I have never use it before.
    I am only making a suggestion maybe you can try other better oil (that has good review among bikers) to see if it help in your gear shifting problem so as to avoid the hefty cost of clutch repair. Also I did not imply that you are ill treating your bike, I only make this joke to Kenneth.

    Btw I'm am not rich also and I'm doing my bike bit by bit like you. I was a student like you before and I know $$ dun come easy.
    eh no problem lah...RP got quite a few good reviews in sbf, of cos cannot compare to repsol, fuchs...but factor in the price..u get a good bang for ur buck..

    pat,i not rich kid..haha..so that answers the qn...
    From the ice cream man bike aka my little black lamb RX100..to All Blacks Bandit 400, to the legendary 1285 bandit

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    Here is the astonishing result I got today,

    Clutch spring length (service limit 31mm)
    **********************************
    32.17mm
    32.11mm
    32.12mm
    32.16mm
    32.14mm

    Analysis: All in good shape and reuseable.

    Cluch plate warp (service limit 0.004")
    ********************************
    5 out of 7 metal plate fail the test when place on a flat granite stone and check with a 0.004" feeler gauge.

    Analysis: Must replace.

    Drive plate thickness (service limit 2.6mm)
    ************************************
    2.96 - 3.00mm
    2.94 - 2.97mm
    2.97 - 3.04mm
    2.95 - 2.97mm
    2.95 - 2.97mm
    2.95 - 2.98mm
    2.93 - 2.94mm
    2.96 - 3.02mm

    Drive plate claw width (service limit 11mm)
    ************************************
    All of them above 11mm between 11.8-12mm

    Standard drive plate thickness or the fibre plate is 2.90 - 3.10mm and the claw width is 11.8-12mm which means my fibre plates are as good as new.

    Analysis: Reuseable but may consider changing them together with the metal plates.

    Now I am left with the clutch sleeve hub to check.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


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    Originally posted by S750WP@Feb 18 2005, 07:34 PM
    Here is the astonishing result I got today,

    Clutch spring length (service limit 31mm)
    **********************************
    32.17mm
    32.11mm
    32.12mm
    32.16mm
    32.14mm

    Analysis: All in good shape and reuseable.

    Cluch plate warp (service limit 0.004")
    ********************************
    5 out of 7 metal plate fail the test when place on a flat granite stone and check with a 0.004" feeler gauge.

    Analysis: Must replace.

    Drive plate thickness (service limit 2.6mm)
    ************************************
    2.96 - 3.00mm
    2.94 - 2.97mm
    2.97 - 3.04mm
    2.95 - 2.97mm
    2.95 - 2.97mm
    2.95 - 2.98mm
    2.93 - 2.94mm
    2.96 - 3.02mm

    Drive plate claw width (service limit 11mm)
    ************************************
    All of them above 11mm between 11.8-12mm

    Standard drive plate thickness or the fibre plate is 2.90 - 3.10mm and the claw width is 11.8-12mm which means my fibre plates are as good as new.

    Analysis: Reuseable but may consider changing them together with the metal plates.

    Now I am left with the clutch sleeve hub to check.
    hmm why u do your clutch? Your clutch got problem?

    BURN RUBBER NOT YOUR SOUL - My 3 babies

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    Originally posted by DatsunKing@Feb 19 2005, 12:46 AM
    hmm why u do your clutch? Your clutch got problem?
    Hard to shift neutral and gear down when the bike is hot, anyway I was going to change engine oil so open the clutch cover to see what's wrong.
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    Read on some reviews by bikers about RP motor oil. Please take no offence, just for information sharing. eace:
    Royal Purple

    I think I will give RP Max cycle (not RP motor oil) a shot after I put in new clutch plates.
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    Originally posted by S750WP@Feb 19 2005, 01:15 AM
    Hard to shift neutral and gear down when the bike is hot, anyway I was going to change engine oil so open the clutch cover to see what's wrong.
    Change to good engine oil can liao...

    BURN RUBBER NOT YOUR SOUL - My 3 babies

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    now a proud owner of Riderz's bandit. hope to learn some stuff from u guys. i have always been a 2 stroke man so need to learn a lot from u all.
    www.facebook.com/B2Werkz

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    Originally posted by DatsunKing@Feb 19 2005, 04:30 AM
    Change to good engine oil can liao...
    Previously I use Repsol engine oil and adjust the clutch free play, it improves but the problem is still there when the bike heats up. Then I switch to Total, since its cheap and if I don't like it I can drain it out anytime, initially was ok after a while engine very rough, bike heats up easily and clutch shifting becomes difficult, mileage use approx 1000km or 2 mths.

    I guess the warp clutch metal plates are warping more when its hot and they push against the fibre plate even though I clutch in, hence the difficulty in gear shifting, but there is no clutch slip because the clutch fibre plate and clutch spring is still ok.
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    Originally posted by Lcbear350@Feb 19 2005, 01:17 PM
    now a proud owner of Riderz's bandit. hope to learn some stuff from u guys. i have always been a 2 stroke man so need to learn a lot from u all.
    Welcome to the bandit club dude, I saw your nick at sg tech riders before, you done up and riding the RD350 rite??
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    thanks.. yes, i was from STR last time. the 31k still with me. tempted to sell but can't bear to let it go. now still in pieces building up slowly. hope we can meet up some day and ask MJ to come along too. needed the bandit for transport as i intend to use my WR200 for more serious trail purposes.

    seems like my bandit has a lil loose head bearings. will tighten and see if it helps the handling cuz it seems to turn a bit wierd. the tire pressure was checked already. intend to change fork oil ratings also. too soft liao.
    www.facebook.com/B2Werkz

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    Originally posted by S750WP@Feb 17 2005, 09:15 AM
    GO back and complain to the boss Ah Chong. Anyway the Bandit fork spring are weak in the first place, if got $$ can change to a better after market one. I read from the old Bandit post there is a guy, DCspare, selling off his Bandit fork spring and rear shock for Bandit1200 maybe can fit onto your bike.
    Dont think can. I contact this guy before. His parts are for Bandit12 and is aftermaket (better than stock type). The spring length is longer and stronger than our stock 600 type. The shock is a binto (spelling error) shock with cylinder. His bandit is the 1st generator bandit, different from sgss 2nd generation therefore possiblity of no match. However can check up the binto (spelling error) webpage which they got state the model and length for different bikes to see if got a match.
    I just realised something.
    Life is not difficult. Its the people around who makes life seems difficult. :|

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    Originally posted by sgss@Feb 17 2005, 09:09 AM
    silver,
    maybe got to see your bike to compare, cuz i got no knowledge of bandit/suzuki at all. i used to ride hornet 600 till i sold it. just take over this 600 from my bro few months back only.
    just got my fork stuffs done at planet motor. not sure y but still feels the suspension not good esp when i turn (i don't do cornering   )
    This is a 1st gen naked bandit

    and a 1st gen half-naked bandit

    and a 2nd gen half-naked bandit

    Can different the 2 generation from the side panel and frame/fuel tank. 1st gen similar to Diversion frame

    Btw,HOw is the bandit performance compared to the hornet?
    I just realised something.
    Life is not difficult. Its the people around who makes life seems difficult. :|

     

     
  42. #2542
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    guys recently me go survey for bandit 400...
    why some got single disc n sum double disc brake huh?(front)
    anyway heard the brakin system no gd....
    anymore cons? tout of trading my phantom soon for 400cc bike...

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    Originally posted by Lcbear350@Feb 20 2005, 01:05 AM
    thanks.. yes, i was from STR last time. the 31k still with me. tempted to sell but can't bear to let it go. now still in pieces building up slowly. hope we can meet up some day and ask MJ to come along too. needed the bandit for transport as i intend to use my WR200 for more serious trail purposes.

    seems like my bandit has a lil loose head bearings. will tighten and see if it helps the handling cuz it seems to turn a bit wierd. the tire pressure was checked already. intend to change fork oil ratings also. too soft liao.
    The original fork oil was 10w, I change to 15w fork oil, the fork is better now. Also I installed 93 gsxr750 on my bandit, preload, rebound and compression setting is adjustable. I pump my front tire 1 psi higher than spec to make the steering quicker.

    I met MJ twice, but din see him post on the forum for a long time, last heard he was riding a shadow400.
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    Originally posted by silver@Feb 20 2005, 03:29 AM
    1st gen half-naked bandit
    Btw,HOw is the bandit performance compared to the hornet?
    I like the naked version and the 2nd generation half fairing model, the other one looks weird and the color scheme I dont like.

    I have rode the hornet600 at bbdc when taking class 2, the bike engine is silky smooth and the bike is beautiful. If I have the $$ I would choose the hornet but the bandit600 is the best value for money.
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    Originally posted by faradona@Feb 20 2005, 12:41 PM
    guys recently me go survey for bandit 400...
    why some got single disc n sum double disc brake huh?(front)
    anyway heard the brakin system no gd....
    anymore cons? tout of trading my phantom soon for 400cc bike...
    The double disc ones are Bandit400V with variable valve, something like Vtec. The single disc is Bandit400.

    Bandit400 cheaper to maintain, because only single front disc and the valve clerance can easily DIY.

    My advice get the Bandit400V the bike is newer, the curves on the bike is nicer and more powerful. Its even more rare than the Bandit 400.
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    Originally posted by S750WP@Feb 20 2005, 01:09 PM

    I like the naked version and the 2nd generation half fairing model, the other one looks weird and the color scheme I dont like.

    I have rode the hornet600 at bbdc when taking class 2, the bike engine is silky smooth and the bike is beautiful. If I have the $$ I would choose the hornet but the bandit600 is the best value for money.
    initially i was looking for the 2nd gen half-fairing version but no one selling. that time all i found was the 1st gen. at first look does look abit weird but after looking at it everyday, finds that it doesnt look so bad at all........ oni complain is the front fairing too small.

    actually my bike look better on the left side w/o pipe then right side. the design of the pipe kind of spolit the look.
    I just realised something.
    Life is not difficult. Its the people around who makes life seems difficult. :|

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    Originally posted by silver@Feb 20 2005, 01:41 PM
    initially i was looking for the 2nd gen half-fairing version but no one selling. that time all i found was the 1st gen. at first look does look abit weird but after looking at it everyday, finds that it doesnt look so bad at all........ oni complain is the front fairing too small.

    actually my bike look better on the left side w/o pipe then right side. the design of the pipe kind of spolit the look.
    Your pipe looks exactly like my old gsxr750. Can try and send to SK (not Soo Kee) and ask then to rewrap the pipe for you. Or get a aftermarket exhaust pipe. I still have my yoshi for my old bike, maybe it can fit your bandit600 also.

    For the head fairing maybe can try to use the 2nd gen bandit mod abit and fit onto your bike.
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    Originally posted by S750WP@Feb 20 2005, 01:07 PM
    The original fork oil was 10w, I change to 15w fork oil, the fork is better now. Also I installed 93 gsxr750 on my bandit, preload, rebound and compression setting is adjustable. I pump my front tire 1 psi higher than spec to make the steering quicker.

    I met MJ twice, but din see him post on the forum for a long time, last heard he was riding a shadow400.
    will try to change the oil these few days. MJ is still riding the shadow. will post pics once the bike is done.
    www.facebook.com/B2Werkz

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    Originally posted by Lcbear350@Feb 20 2005, 01:51 PM
    will try to change the oil these few days. MJ is still riding the shadow. will post pics once the bike is done.
    You changing the fork oil yourself?? the Bandit400 service manaul is in the old post try to back trek abit. If not I can post it again.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Originally posted by S750WP@Feb 20 2005, 01:51 PM
    Your pipe looks exactly like my old gsxr750. Can try and send to SK (not Soo Kee) and ask then to rewrap the pipe for you. Or get a aftermarket exhaust pipe. I still have my yoshi for my old bike, maybe it can fit your bandit600 also.

    For the head fairing maybe can try to use the 2nd gen bandit mod abit and fit onto your bike.
    i thought of rewrapping before. I call up LTA, lied that my endcan buang untill jialut and since very old model cannot find stock pipe, can i rewrap pipe and pass inspection at road block (incase). the blur LTA fellow who doesnt ride bike (ask me send my "honda" down) say must go there let them inspection then know whether pass or not. i never go down.

    My office very near Ubi and i pass by TP everyday so dont want to put on yoshi pipe. btw, my endcan is welded to the midpipe so i dont think your yoshi can put on my bike. I might as well put a bandit1200 pipe and midpipe, just blur the model type and put in bandit600. i rather save my $500 fine

    Mod for the head fairing? no lah...frame different. last thing i want when i ride fast is to have the head fairing shaking and fly off
    I just realised something.
    Life is not difficult. Its the people around who makes life seems difficult. :|

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