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Thread: Honda NSR150SP Riders

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    Quote Originally Posted by fx110 View Post
    the K&N air filter,drop-in type.
    Price around S$100.
    Quote Originally Posted by jbdoggy View Post
    The last time i checked for k&n filter was with Unique. Sgd$120 including installation. Need to order & wait something like a mth+- somemore. So I forego it. What i hv now is normal stock filter which is just a sponge ordered by tsk when i overhauled. Rm$80 only.

    For carb setting, there is an air screw next to your idle setting knob (yellow star/flower shaped knob). The normal stock setting is 2 turns out (counter clockwise). So if you want leaner setting (more air) you gv it quarter turn out. But you must be careful, too lean & there will be too much heat, or you get hanging idle (idling speed can shoot up to 3-5k revs & stay there). Normal setting gives abt 21km/l or so. Mine, I lean out a bit.... abt 23-25km/l. But if always in stop go traffic, consumption will be quite bad. Sp is bike most happy on the run! haha

    btw, can anyone tell me how hvg an air filter improves engine breathing as claimed by k&n? I would think hvg no filter is freer air flow, just that lots more dust enter the cylinder?? So filter is to trap dust only??
    I search knn website, with shipping it will be about 70+ SGD, cheaper than order from shop.
    And my bike running lean, sometimes my throttle will stick and go down slowly, other SP riders said running lean easier to piston jam. Dk whether it's worth it to buy the knn filter or stock on enough, ah boy say $15 for stock lol.


    Quote Originally Posted by Fluffygrenz View Post
    Hi there guys, I'm a new NSR Rider. I just got my bike and it feels a little sluggish when I throttle. Went to Unique and they said that it's due to tuning of carburetor. Do you guys know of any other place that can do servicing for sp including tuning?

    Thanks guys. And is there any WhatsApp group for SP riders?
    I'm in the nsr WhatsApp grp, pm me then I add you in

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    Quote Originally Posted by Crazybiker View Post
    I search knn website, with shipping it will be about 70+ SGD, cheaper than order from shop.
    And my bike running lean, sometimes my throttle will stick and go down slowly, other SP riders said running lean easier to piston jam. Dk whether it's worth it to buy the knn filter or stock on enough, ah boy say $15 for stock lol.
    You mean your revs will stick & go down slowly? If yes, then that is a lean symptom. Gv your air screw a quarter turn in & see if it helps normalise things. If not, then gv another quarter turn in.

    Yes, running lean also can cause seizure cos of heat. Petrol also acts as a coolant. So if your air-fuel mix too lean, there wont be enuf coolant inside the cylinder => faster heat build up => piston expands faster then cylinder=> seizure.

    Ah boy only sell stock air filter only $15?? Wah! like that nxt time i better chk for parts with ah boy, & then gv TSK to install. Go for stock air filter can liao la....what for spend so much for k&n? The only advantage of hvg k&n will be its longer lasting, but since stock so cheap, replace every few yrs also no prblm. Its just to trap dust only. Ask mech to wash it every time you go for full service.
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    Then I better get carb tuned soon, also my throttle response not so good. Like don't have the snappy quick acceleration from before.

    And I'm thinking of reducing 2t intake because using motul 710 also got smoke during idle and when whack throttle. Because when overhaul the mech increase it so lesser chances of jam in future..


    Btw anyone got service at project motor in Yishun before? Heard he's good in sp

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    To further add to the confusion, too rich oil-fuel ratio also leans out air-fuel ratio. So lets say you want more oil, you need to jet your carb for more fuel.

    How much your 2t consumption? I was like topping up 1l 2t every 50l of petrol before my seizure. Its now abt 1l to abt 95l or so petrol. But unlike premix where the ratio oil-fuel ratio is fixed whatever your revs. Pump is variable dosage. So it will consume a lot less at idling & consume more at higher revs.

    I also use motul 710. Dont believe all this anti smoke formula thing la. As long as 2 stroke, will always hv smoke. Morning & cold starts definitely more smokey. All the leftover 2t from the prev ride which did not burn up all condense & settle around the cylinder & crankshaft area. The moment you start in the morning the new 2t+ last nites condensate burn together gvg more rich oil mix. After warm up, will be less smokey. The thing is better brands of 2t will hv less visible smoke (less white). Even aftr my new pump setting after overhaul i still kena nea letter for smokey exhaust=> resend inspection. I also recommend Elf Moto 2 Race 2t. This i find better then motul. Also ester synthetic. Seems smoother, & smoke less visible. But cant find in sg, only Jb. TSK recommend to me. RM$90.

    Motul you can get cheaper if you order frm this 1 guy Iride Sg (look up facebook or carousell). $22 per pack. But if you order 3 or more packs he will deliver to your house for another $3. Motortiam sell I think abt $26-29 per pack.
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    Liqui moly is good also. $22 from most seller. One guy sells $20 but no stock now.

    It's smooth and no smoke even if whack. But that was before overhaul and using a moderate/low 2t setting.

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    Damn my rear brake is dragging and need to service it. I see videos and I can diy. Just need to get the brake piston seal.

    Anyone know the price of the seal?

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    Hi anyone know any shop that do full servicing for sp? i went to many shop but all of them say difficult to find parts.

    can anyone recommend any shop?

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    Quote Originally Posted by eyfeyf View Post
    Hi anyone know any shop that do full servicing for sp? i went to many shop but all of them say difficult to find parts.

    can anyone recommend any shop?
    try project motors in yishun, he does quite a number of sp. but you doing servicing or overhaul? servicing only need to change gaskets unless they open gearbox then need to change bearings also

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    Quote Originally Posted by Crazybiker View Post
    try project motors in yishun, he does quite a number of sp. but you doing servicing or overhaul? servicing only need to change gaskets unless they open gearbox then need to change bearings also
    i doing full overhaul. they got do? dont mind pass me the adress? thanks


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    PROJECT MOTORS
    11 Yishun Industrial Street 1
    NorthSpring Bizhub
    #01-109
    S(768089)


    Call andy 81618865 before going down.
    Irregular operating hours (usually at night till dawn)


    https://www.facebook.com/Project-Mot...2982459949485/

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ongchaiyai View Post
    PROJECT MOTORS
    11 Yishun Industrial Street 1
    NorthSpring Bizhub
    #01-109
    S(768089)


    Call andy 81618865 before going down.
    Irregular operating hours (usually at night till dawn)


    https://www.facebook.com/Project-Mot...2982459949485/
    Thanks!!


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    how to find brake pads suitable for our bikes ah? i'm thinking of changing to semi sintered pads for more braking power and less brake fade. but i need to know the model number and such.

    stock for rear is : 06435-KW6-841
    front : 06455-KW6-844

    but aftermarket ones how to find? need to manually check each brand website?

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    Im currently using Vesrah high performance organic pads. Very good stopping power & good feel too!. The ones im using is same model for ninja 250.
    I am the wisest man alive, for I know one thing, and that is that I know nothing - Socrates

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    Quote Originally Posted by jbdoggy View Post
    Im currently using Vesrah high performance organic pads. Very good stopping power & good feel too!. The ones im using is same model for ninja 250.
    do you have aftermarket caliper as well?


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    Quote Originally Posted by eyfeyf View Post
    do you have aftermarket caliper as well?
    Nope. Still stock. No point spending so much to mod your calipers la....unless your calipers are quite gone case. Frm my own experience riding the last 2 years, the stock calipers are already very very good!

    If anything, better to spend $$ on a good set of pads (not to say stock pads are lousy). organic, semi sintered or sintered... tk your pick. Just know the pros & cons of what you decide to buy:

    Organic: Cheapest. Not as much stopping power as sintered & wears out faster. But provides very good feel & does not wear out your disk as quickly as sintered.

    Sintered: Most expensive. Best stopping power. Not very much feel & wears out the disk fastest.

    Semi sintered: Its the in between. feelwise more then sintered but less then organic. Stopping power more then organic but less then sintered. disk wear faster then organic but slower then sintered.

    For me, feel is very very important... hence i chose a high performance organic. An upgrade from stock.

    Quote Originally Posted by Crazybiker View Post

    but aftermarket ones how to find? need to manually check each brand website?
    Can go to any mototiam & ask. Motoworld also sell - Mostly SBS if im not wrong. But also depend on if you have a particular brand in mind or not. My Vesrah pads was what they had.
    Last edited by jbdoggy; 18-06-2017 at 01:33 AM.
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    hey guys. recently my friend was riding my bike at around 120km/h and he did a sudden brake without clutching in. the engine died but when i try to kickstart it, it does not have any compression. does anyone know if its the rings or the block or piston? i didnt have time to take apart to take a look at it yet. thanks in advance.


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    Quote Originally Posted by eyfeyf View Post
    hey guys. recently my friend was riding my bike at around 120km/h and he did a sudden brake without clutching in. the engine died but when i try to kickstart it, it does not have any compression. does anyone know if its the rings or the block or piston? i didnt have time to take apart to take a look at it yet. thanks in advance.


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    piston seize Liao, need to open up and see the extent of damage. Might be able to save the block but confirm need to change piston and rings.

    He brake because of other vehicles or what?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Crazybiker View Post
    piston seize Liao, need to open up and see the extent of damage. Might be able to save the block but confirm need to change piston and rings.

    He brake because of other vehicles or what?
    he brake cause he missed his exit. already open up the bike. and its the piston. 😩😩😩


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  19. #140219
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    stop reading at friend riding owner bike at 120km/h
    一路向北 4 EVER , my friend



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    Quote Originally Posted by wait4me View Post
    stop reading at friend riding owner bike at 120km/h
    didnt read properly and thought friends was riding his own bike.

    firstly, make sure whoever rides your bikes know how to ride a 2t, you do sudden stop from high rpm of course seize. 4t can whack and E brake until no petrol and probably won't seize unless no EO.

    second, your friend miss exit then take the next one la, bad driving/road skills leh, regardless his bike or not.

    third, i hope he pays for the repair, luckily is only piston gone. block still can use right? do a full service and clean the valves & carb at the same time. can do other miscellaneous stuff like brakes, cables or electronics also if you want

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    hi anyone knows where to buy rear suspension for sp? and roughly how much?


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    Quote Originally Posted by eyfeyf View Post
    hi anyone knows where to buy rear suspension for sp? and roughly how much?


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    around $400 or more in sg. jb cheaper for normal type. they might not have yss rear shock.

    sg can try project motors, planet motors or lian hup heng

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    whats the best aftermarket gantong for sp? anyone know?


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    Hello fellow riders. Very quick question. Can someone just explain to me the difference between 'normal servicing' 'top servicing' 'Full servicing' 'top overhaul' and 'full overhaul'
    I have the general idea of it through word of mouth by friends. But it would be great if I can get other people's advice and perception of it. Thanks in advance!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sigara View Post
    Hello fellow riders. Very quick question. Can someone just explain to me the difference between 'normal servicing' 'top servicing' 'Full servicing' 'top overhaul' and 'full overhaul'
    I have the general idea of it through word of mouth by friends. But it would be great if I can get other people's advice and perception of it. Thanks in advance!
    normal servicing would be change of engine oil and spark plug. might change other stuff like brake pads or coolant also. this one can DIY to save cost, very easy. can clean carb also if you want to

    top/full service is open the block and clean the carbon on the block,piston, rc valve and block head. engine oil, plug and coolant will be changed also. carb is cleaned also.

    top overhaul is usually change the block and piston i think.
    full overhaul should be change the block, block head and piston. usually other stuff like wiring is done with full overhaul.

    for 2t you need to specify what you want to service to the mech because ours got many things to do

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    Quote Originally Posted by Crazybiker View Post
    normal servicing would be change of engine oil and spark plug. might change other stuff like brake pads or coolant also. this one can DIY to save cost, very easy. can clean carb also if you want to

    top/full service is open the block and clean the carbon on the block,piston, rc valve and block head. engine oil, plug and coolant will be changed also. carb is cleaned also.

    top overhaul is usually change the block and piston i think.
    full overhaul should be change the block, block head and piston. usually other stuff like wiring is done with full overhaul.

    for 2t you need to specify what you want to service to the mech because ours got many things to do
    er....
    repair gearbox, replace clutch & engine bearings under full overhaul or other category ?
    sorry that i quite sometime no touching 2T bike liao... intend get a SP in future, a lot old days memory
    2007-Honda NSR150SP
    2008-Honda NSR150SP,CB400 PB1,CBR400RR NC23
    2009-Honda NSR150SP,CB400 PB1,CBR400RR NC23
    2010-Honda C70,CB400 PB1,CBR400RRK,Suzuki GSX1300R隼
    2011-Honda C70,Yamaha 125z Super Sport ,XJ900S Diversion
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crazybiker View Post
    normal servicing would be change of engine oil and spark plug. might change other stuff like brake pads or coolant also. this one can DIY to save cost, very easy. can clean carb also if you want to

    top/full service is open the block and clean the carbon on the block,piston, rc valve and block head. engine oil, plug and coolant will be changed also. carb is cleaned also.

    top overhaul is usually change the block and piston i think.
    full overhaul should be change the block, block head and piston. usually other stuff like wiring is done with full overhaul.

    for 2t you need to specify what you want to service to


    the mech because ours got many things to do
    So that would mean that top and full servicing is the same ? Does that also include cleaning of air filter ? Anyways thank you for the clarifications!

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    Quote Originally Posted by fx110 View Post
    er....
    repair gearbox, replace clutch & engine bearings under full overhaul or other category ?
    sorry that i quite sometime no touching 2T bike liao... intend get a SP in future, a lot old days memory
    that would be full overhaul, because if you need to change those stuff especially gearbox youll change the block and piston also. but can be done separately also.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sigara View Post
    So that would mean that top and full servicing is the same ? Does that also include cleaning of air filter ? Anyways thank you for the clarifications!
    for me it's the same, for others is different because their full service might just be a normal service. and air filter just throw and get new one la, the foam so fragile if you wash might tear. and need to wait for it to dry.

    buy from parts agent or ah boy for $15

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    Castrol A747 can use on SP? (premix only?)
    any feedback?
    2007-Honda NSR150SP
    2008-Honda NSR150SP,CB400 PB1,CBR400RR NC23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crazybiker View Post
    that would be full overhaul, because if you need to change those stuff especially gearbox youll change the block and piston also. but can be done separately also.
    ok thanks
    2007-Honda NSR150SP
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    Quote Originally Posted by fx110 View Post
    Castrol A747 can use on SP? (premix only?)
    any feedback?
    A747 is castor based right? Yes can use, but cannot mix w your synthetic or semi synthetic 2t inside your tank.

    Use up or drain off whatever balance you have in your tank 1st & then use the castor based oil.

    yes. for premix only
    Last edited by jbdoggy; 24-07-2017 at 04:27 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbdoggy View Post
    A747 is castor based right? Yes can use, but cannot mix w your synthetic or semi synthetic 2t inside your tank.

    Use up or drain off whatever balance you have in your tank 1st & then use the castor based oil.

    yes. for premix only
    Thank~ :)




    https://carousell.com/p/【wtb】-ipone-...ttle-117620531
    Looking for Ipone 2T Empty Bottle
    Condition:-
    1.No crack
    2.Yellowish is acceptable
    3.Not required clean bottle
    4.With or without label is acceptable

    Required 3-4 pcs
    PM me your offer
    2007-Honda NSR150SP
    2008-Honda NSR150SP,CB400 PB1,CBR400RR NC23
    2009-Honda NSR150SP,CB400 PB1,CBR400RR NC23
    2010-Honda C70,CB400 PB1,CBR400RRK,Suzuki GSX1300R隼
    2011-Honda C70,Yamaha 125z Super Sport ,XJ900S Diversion
    2012-on Honda C70,Yamaha XJ900S Diversion

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    fx,

    just to clarify, the tank i was referring to is the fuel tank. I was straightaway assuming an already premix bike. So have to use up or drain off the balance premix if its using non castor based 2t.

    If the bike is running on pump, then the mech will have to cut off the pump operation & drain away the balance 2t from the 2t tank.

    Mixing castor & non based castor 2t will cause resins to form which will eventually choke up your engine.
    I am the wisest man alive, for I know one thing, and that is that I know nothing - Socrates

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    Quote Originally Posted by jbdoggy View Post
    fx,

    just to clarify, the tank i was referring to is the fuel tank. I was straightaway assuming an already premix bike. So have to use up or drain off the balance premix if its using non castor based 2t.

    If the bike is running on pump, then the mech will have to cut off the pump operation & drain away the balance 2t from the 2t tank.

    Mixing castor & non based castor 2t will cause resins to form which will eventually choke up your engine.
    Noted with thanks

    one more things, possible to use stock 2T pump still running with 2T(not A747) &
    A747 as premix in fuel tank at the same time,
    the A747 use as supplement for long distance ride?
    2007-Honda NSR150SP
    2008-Honda NSR150SP,CB400 PB1,CBR400RR NC23
    2009-Honda NSR150SP,CB400 PB1,CBR400RR NC23
    2010-Honda C70,CB400 PB1,CBR400RRK,Suzuki GSX1300R隼
    2011-Honda C70,Yamaha 125z Super Sport ,XJ900S Diversion
    2012-on Honda C70,Yamaha XJ900S Diversion

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    Quote Originally Posted by fx110 View Post
    Noted with thanks

    one more things, possible to use stock 2T pump still running with 2T(not A747) &
    A747 as premix in fuel tank at the same time,
    the A747 use as supplement for long distance ride?
    don't think it's a good idea to mix 2 kinds especially castor and synthetic as mentioned above.

    A747 mainly for racing on track from what i heard, dk about long distance. i think you need to whack frequently if using a747 to reduce carbon buildup because it's thick

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    Quote Originally Posted by fx110 View Post
    Noted with thanks

    one more things, possible to use stock 2T pump still running with 2T(not A747) &
    A747 as premix in fuel tank at the same time,
    the A747 use as supplement for long distance ride?
    Nope. Cant mix castor & non castor oils.

    But you can eg use synthetic 2t for pump & supplement synthetic or semi synthetic 2t as premix for long distance rides. Maybe 1-2 caps full.

    Dont try & put 100ml or more into the tank for supplement. I did that once...filled up 850ml into the 2t tank. Balance I throw into fuel tank as premix. Bike became very sick. Loss of power also. Recovered only after all the premix used up & top up fresh petrol.

    Im not sure of any castor based 2t which can use for pump. The only other castor brand i know is maxima 927 & that 1 also premix.
    I am the wisest man alive, for I know one thing, and that is that I know nothing - Socrates

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    anyone use putoline rs959?

    its fully synth and ester based also. seems cheaper than motul and belray by like $5. gonna try 1 bottle to test

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    Quote Originally Posted by jbdoggy View Post
    Nope. Cant mix castor & non castor oils.

    But you can eg use synthetic 2t for pump & supplement synthetic or semi synthetic 2t as premix for long distance rides. Maybe 1-2 caps full.

    Dont try & put 100ml or more into the tank for supplement. I did that once...filled up 850ml into the 2t tank. Balance I throw into fuel tank as premix. Bike became very sick. Loss of power also. Recovered only after all the premix used up & top up fresh petrol.

    Im not sure of any castor based 2t which can use for pump. The only other castor brand i know is maxima 927 & that 1 also premix.
    Noted
    A747 is very thick oil, PDS mention SAE 50, thickness like 4T

    i found below Racing 2T which able to get in SG.
    Castrol A747
    Maxima CASTOR 927
    Maxima FORMULA K2
    Putoline Castor R
    IPONE STROKE 2R


    Quote Originally Posted by Crazybiker View Post
    don't think it's a good idea to mix 2 kinds especially castor and synthetic as mentioned above.

    A747 mainly for racing on track from what i heard, dk about long distance. i think you need to whack frequently if using a747 to reduce carbon buildup because it's thick
    noted

    Quote Originally Posted by Crazybiker View Post
    anyone use putoline rs959?

    its fully synth and ester based also. seems cheaper than motul and belray by like $5. gonna try 1 bottle to test
    RS959, the smell is great, like burn metal
    2007-Honda NSR150SP
    2008-Honda NSR150SP,CB400 PB1,CBR400RR NC23
    2009-Honda NSR150SP,CB400 PB1,CBR400RR NC23
    2010-Honda C70,CB400 PB1,CBR400RRK,Suzuki GSX1300R隼
    2011-Honda C70,Yamaha 125z Super Sport ,XJ900S Diversion
    2012-on Honda C70,Yamaha XJ900S Diversion

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    yes, premix oils are thicker than pump oils. Thats why cant use for pump. Motul 800 factory line also for premix only. For ordinary road use will have more carbon deposits & tar dripping from exhaust.

    But true blue racing/track bikes are all premix bikes. There is no such thing as a racing/track bike which runs on pump.

    Pumps are installed for convenience for street use. No need to keep pouring in 2t when topping up petrol. Also less oil burnt at lower revs & idling => less oil wastage & less polluting to environment. 2t consumption increases with throttle input.

    But of course nothing wrong, if you wish to hv a premix bike. Some people swear by it. my prev owner also premix advocate jus that i too lazy to carry around 2t for each refill. Thats why i had the pump reconnected.
    I am the wisest man alive, for I know one thing, and that is that I know nothing - Socrates

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    for full/top service to open block and clean carbon we need to replace the top gaskets rights? other than that nothing else to replace if condition ok?

    and whats the pros and cons of glue gasket that some shops use?

    because i planning to go service in JB bapok lane, then give them the gaskets to replace.
    Last edited by Crazybiker; 25-07-2017 at 06:26 PM.

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    Hello all,just passed tp recently. I've an sp that my uncle gave as he no longer rides. Quite a number of problems with it.
    1) No lights on meter or anywhere at all when i turn the keys to on. Switch put on still nothing. However i can still kickstart the bike and have it run. But the neutral lights and headlight would flicker. My uncle told me he changed battery 2 months ago so what could be the problem? Rectifier?
    2) The bike would vibrate really badly when i try to go above 6k rpm. Gear 1&2 not so bad but after gear 3 try to speed up would vibrate really bad until hand numb.
    3)Bike temps go more than the half way line. Need to top up coolant? If so,where? The radiator?

    If anyone can help me identify the problem and recommend me places to go for servicing that would be extremely helpful! Not planning to go to jb for servicing until i fix this vibrating issue. Its really a major problem for me cuz i dont think i can ride it any longer than 30mins. Thanks!!

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

     

     
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    PROJECT MOTORS
    11 Yishun Industrial Street 1
    NorthSpring Bizhub
    #01-109
    S(768089)


    Call andy 81618865 before going down.
    Irregular operating hours (usually at night till dawn)

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    Quote Originally Posted by smok3anddfly View Post
    Hello all,just passed tp recently. I've an sp that my uncle gave as he no longer rides. Quite a number of problems with it.
    1) No lights on meter or anywhere at all when i turn the keys to on. Switch put on still nothing. However i can still kickstart the bike and have it run. But the neutral lights and headlight would flicker. My uncle told me he changed battery 2 months ago so what could be the problem? Rectifier?
    2) The bike would vibrate really badly when i try to go above 6k rpm. Gear 1&2 not so bad but after gear 3 try to speed up would vibrate really bad until hand numb.
    3)Bike temps go more than the half way line. Need to top up coolant? If so,where? The radiator?

    If anyone can help me identify the problem and recommend me places to go for servicing that would be extremely helpful! Not planning to go to jb for servicing until i fix this vibrating issue. Its really a major problem for me cuz i dont think i can ride it any longer than 30mins. Thanks!!

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
    1) might be fuses blown or bulb blown. get a multimeter and check if got resistance across those parts. have resistance means that part can work, no resis mean blown and need to replace. or could be your coil or rectifier gone. rectifier and fuse and DIY replace and cheaper than going to shop.

    2)proabably never service for awhile and too much carbon in the block and rc valve. the valve open at 7k so that's why you feel a lot of vibration at 6k onwards.

    3) temps is during normal highway/road riding or when lane splitting/stuck in jams? mine will go above middle when stuck in jam like at customs or jams and cant lanesplit. other than that even if whack during afternoon hot sun will be at middle most of the time. open your rider seat and you'll see 2 tanks. the one on the right side of the bike is coolant tank. top up to the full/high marking. dont add water, buy coolant from petrol station or motorshop. normal ones will do. or could be your radiator fins bents, clogged inside with crap or pump spoil.

    seems like you need to do a full service and change all your fluid: engine oil, coolant, brake fluid etc because it sounds like the bike has been sitting there and never use for long time

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    Quote Originally Posted by Crazybiker View Post
    1) might be fuses blown or bulb blown. get a multimeter and check if got resistance across those parts. have resistance means that part can work, no resis mean blown and need to replace. or could be your coil or rectifier gone. rectifier and fuse and DIY replace and cheaper than going to shop.

    2)proabably never service for awhile and too much carbon in the block and rc valve. the valve open at 7k so that's why you feel a lot of vibration at 6k onwards.

    3) temps is during normal highway/road riding or when lane splitting/stuck in jams? mine will go above middle when stuck in jam like at customs or jams and cant lanesplit. other than that even if whack during afternoon hot sun will be at middle most of the time. open your rider seat and you'll see 2 tanks. the one on the right side of the bike is coolant tank. top up to the full/high marking. dont add water, buy coolant from petrol station or motorshop. normal ones will do. or could be your radiator fins bents, clogged inside with crap or pump spoil.

    seems like you need to do a full service and change all your fluid: engine oil, coolant, brake fluid etc because it sounds like the bike has been sitting there and never use for long time
    Hey crazybiker! Thanks for the input! Will check those out asap. Any idea how much roughly for full service?

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

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    smok3anddfly,

    You did not specify what type of vibrations youre experiencing. Is it a high frequency buzz at the handlebars? If yes, thats normal at abt 6k+ revs. But that should smoothen out at higher revs say 7k onwards.

    But if the vibrations are the sort like knocking & shaking type as you ride fast, then that 1 is steering cone or wheel bearings worn out. For me it felt like riding an earthquake when at 8k revs+. Problem disappeared after changing steering cone & front wheel bearings.

    The rest i think crazybiker has answered quite well.

    But just to add abt battery - If with lights on cannot start, but with lights off can start => battery abt to die, change. Dim lights or flickering lights => battery weak, need to charge. Let the bike run idle with some revs until lights brighten up. If they dim down again after releasing the revs => battery not keeping charge, time to change. If by revving & doesnt improve the situation => battery not charging => rectifier prblm. If while on the road & come to a stop, lights start to dim/flicker & suddenly the whole bike goes dead & refuse to start => battery dead, change.

    Fuse - Dashboard lights, signal lights, brake/rear lights, head lights all out at the same time => blown fuse. I kena before 1 nite. Inside the fuse box have 2 spare fuses. Use the spare to change with the blown 1. Chk fuse either with multimeter or take out one by one & check. Planet charged me $10 i think to change.
    I am the wisest man alive, for I know one thing, and that is that I know nothing - Socrates

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    guys racing boys shocks or KYB? any opinion? thanks


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    anyone use belray si-7 2t?

    it's fully synth ester, want to test it. they have h1r for race use, both can use in pumps. but h1r is like $25 sgd/bottle

  48. #140248
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    hi there. Anyone selling sp left 1-2 years coe?

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    That time ah boy no motul so I bought belray. Honestly the ride about the same la. But belray will smell like plastic burning. Maybe you'll feel abit different. Don't have the same 'smooth' ride when you use belray compared to motul. But that's just your mind. Cause it's too used to motul liao.

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    once upon time.......
    2007-Honda NSR150SP
    2008-Honda NSR150SP,CB400 PB1,CBR400RR NC23
    2009-Honda NSR150SP,CB400 PB1,CBR400RR NC23
    2010-Honda C70,CB400 PB1,CBR400RRK,Suzuki GSX1300R隼
    2011-Honda C70,Yamaha 125z Super Sport ,XJ900S Diversion
    2012-on Honda C70,Yamaha XJ900S Diversion

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