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Thread: DIY Guide: Bleeding n change of brake fluid

  1. #51
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    is there a need to bleed brake fluids?

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    Only when you have any of these symptoms, or you know that:
    • Your brake fluid is dirty (look at your brake fluid cylinder, should be clear)
    • You notice that you need more effort when applying the brake; brake lever travel increased unlike before,
    • Brake lever operation feels "spongy," instead of feeling some firm resistance (full brake application) halfway through
    • It has been a year or two since you've changed the brake fluid and you want to do something about it.
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    For the rear caliper, there's another master cylinder for it am i right? Located near the foot brake pedal? I should repeat the process with that master cylinder to bleed the rear brake hose??

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    Yep, that's correct.
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    thanks nelly (",)

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    hey guys...anyone here knows how to do this for a CBS system? wat are the additional steps?
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    how about change to steel braided lines ? also need to bleed and change the brake fluid?
    Is this real?
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    Any bro doing it like soon? maybe we can do it together or something?
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    i think we should. anyone?
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    Thinking of doing on sat. Anyone want to join?
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    my brake nipple become round. before that i try to tighten then loose but still cant open. anyone got special tool to open it? and where can i get good stainless steel nipple screw?

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    Try using grip pliers. After that change new nipple. Good luck

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    Quote Originally Posted by gysmily View Post
    Try using grip pliers. After that change new nipple. Good luck
    gysmily is right



    use a vice grip to remove the old nipple and buy a stainless steel one from the shop that sells HEL brake hose.


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    Watch out for the brake fluid liquid bros...it can ruin paint if allowed to drip on your paintwork.
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    Quote Originally Posted by picooz View Post
    my brake nipple become round. before that i try to tighten then loose but still cant open. anyone got special tool to open it? and where can i get good stainless steel nipple screw?

    once you have your new bleed nipple, pls only use either a flare nut wrench or a hex-sided close end wrench.. even a 12-sided close end wrench is not recommended... open-end wrench or adjustable spanner is definitely a big NO...


    brakes save your life bro... so spend that extra few dollars on a high quality tool to service your brakes...

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    err.. where can get grip pliers? can lock iszit? i cant find any in self fix shops.. and roughly how much is that?.. or anyone can lend me 1 day? heh

    for close wrench .. should be size 8? im riding rxk. stardard brake.

    im interested getting a stainless screw.. recommend me any gd ones?.. location?. and yaa price will be nice.

    thanks alot u guys.. i've been using rear brake since last week. i know its dangerous. rode below 60km/h everyday.

    i'd love to diy my bike rather than go to bikeshop.

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    how much will it cost to replace the brake fluid or mayb the change of brake pump for a cbr400?
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    er how to bleed if the caliper's bleed nipple has broken or dropped off?

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    someone told me if broke... might as well you change the whole caliper.

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    Quote Originally Posted by picooz View Post
    someone told me if broke... might as well you change the whole caliper.
    That is, if you leave brake bleeding in the hands of a mechanic who is either those who have no tools or capability to remove the nipple, or that he is the "do it fast" or the money-earner one.
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    While I read the thread, although I find that there're quite a number of people who knows the job, but there's a faster and more efficient way of bleeding brakes. But it may cost a bit more.

    Borrow an air compressor to do the job.
    There's a special suction tool powered by an air compressor which can connect the ports to the nipple and conduct bleeding with a fraction of the effort and several times effective to ensure a clean fresh brake fluid.



    When I replaced my brake hoses for my R1, I used this tool to speed up my job. Clean, little hassle, thorough, extremely fast, overall very much efficient. Perhaps people who're interested can opt to buy this tool. Very cheap (definately <$100) Just plug into any air compressor with a suitable port and you can do the job too. If you have problems looking for a compressor, then hitch your regular workshop and probably buy brake fluid from them and do it yourself. This suction tool not only deals with hydraulic brake system, it deals with hydraulic clutch system. Anything that runs on a small hydraulic system.

    For brake calipers with dual ports, you can always buy an auxiliary Y hose to conduct the bleeding. If not you can do it sequentially with a single hose too. Doesn't matter. Those bikes with complicated brake hose system like the Honda Blackbird CBS, don't bother doing with the manual method. You'll take ages to complete.

    This tool simply don't bleed. It actually flushes your brake hose brake fluid.

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  22. #72
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    btw can explain to me why isit must we change the brake fluid??

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    I came across this sometime ago..Anyone tried it before? Sure looks like a good and simple way to bleed the brakes..

    Wonder which size can fit my little bike..
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    After reading sum article on the net, realise that the screws that connects the hose to the master pump or to the calipers isn't disturb, isit??
    So the few screws that will be loosen & tighten are the nipples & the cover of the reservoir hor??

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    Quote Originally Posted by stinkybutt View Post
    After reading sum article on the net, realise that the screws that connects the hose to the master pump or to the calipers isn't disturb, isit??
    So the few screws that will be loosen & tighten are the nipples & the cover of the reservoir hor??
    the banjo nut that attach the hose cannot be touch if u are not very sure..
    if do normal bleeding, juz use a size 8 ring spanner to loose the nipples and screw driver for the reservoir..

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    Can ani1 here can change for me my brake lines??? im riding a r6 08 still new...... i dun wanna go to motordiam they charge me so expensive..... nid help here.... thanks bros.... can pm me if ani of u guys can help......

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aalex82 View Post
    the banjo nut that attach the hose cannot be touch if u are not very sure..
    if do normal bleeding, juz use a size 8 ring spanner to loose the nipples and screw driver for the reservoir..
    if i dun use any speedbleeder or sumting lyk dat, instead using a hose & a bottle will do right?? coz the dot4 will eventually drip of from de nipples, i tink so.

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    Quote Originally Posted by stinkybutt View Post
    if i dun use any speedbleeder or sumting lyk dat, instead using a hose & a bottle will do right?? coz the dot4 will eventually drip of from de nipples, i tink so.
    actually speedbleeder work like normal nipple for the brake caliper.. juz that it prevent air from going into the brake system from the nipple side when u release the brake lever.. all u need to prevent it in a conventional method is fill the bottle wif a little of fresh brake fluid to cover the end of the hose within the bottle..
    this prevent air to back flow into the hose then to the brake caliper..

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    i recommend for first timers to do it with an experience person around,to play safe if anything goes wrong.If not that person will be taking a huge risk,if all things goes wrong he or she might lose the front/rear braking power.That increases the chances of the accident rate not only to himself or herself but other road users as well.Its good and wise to save and learn but with people with expertise on that matter to guide and help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by acak View Post
    Can ani1 here can change for me my brake lines??? im riding a r6 08 still new...... i dun wanna go to motordiam they charge me so expensive..... nid help here.... thanks bros.... can pm me if ani of u guys can help......
    U can afford R6-08 but cannot afford labour charges to change brake lines ?

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    just for information's sake, anyone here knows how much is the labour cost for bleeding and changing of brake fluid?

    different class of bike means different pricing?

     

     
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenneth.C View Post
    just for information's sake, anyone here knows how much is the labour cost for bleeding and changing of brake fluid?

    different class of bike means different pricing?
    Planet charges $10 for bleeding each brake line. So front and rear total $20.
    I don't think different class will be different pricing. Its not really a difficult job.

    But i rather diy cos the bottle of brake fluid used at the shop would usually be opened for some time (ie, not 'fresh').
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    Quote Originally Posted by stRobe View Post
    Planet charges $10 for bleeding each brake line. So front and rear total $20.
    I don't think different class will be different pricing. Its not really a difficult job.

    But i rather diy cos the bottle of brake fluid used at the shop would usually be opened for some time (ie, not 'fresh').
    Using air pump (automated) or pump using hand (old fashioned way) ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Guapo View Post
    Using air pump (automated) or pump using hand (old fashioned way) ?
    pump using hand..

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aalex82 View Post
    pump using hand..
    EEEWWWWWW........

    Anywhere using air pump ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Guapo View Post
    EEEWWWWWW........

    Anywhere using air pump ?
    air pump is better than by hand??

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aalex82 View Post
    air pump is better than by hand??
    I said wrongly. Actually it's called a vacumm pump.
    It draws out brake fluid consistantly without leaving air bubbles in the lines.
    Faster,cleaner and more efficient.

    Maybe u've never tried it.
    If u see it in action maybe u will understand what i mean.

    An example : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wIlo5ck8jg4

    Cheers !

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    Any guy buy steel braided hose and DIY before?Same method as changing the brake fluid ?


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    Quote Originally Posted by Guapo View Post
    I said wrongly. Actually it's called a vacumm pump.
    It draws out brake fluid consistantly without leaving air bubbles in the lines.
    Faster,cleaner and more efficient.

    Maybe u've never tried it.
    If u see it in action maybe u will understand what i mean.

    An example : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wIlo5ck8jg4

    Cheers !
    the hose was bleeded b4 using the hand and the pump method..
    but i find that hand is better.. that y i ask u y u find pump is better to compare wif wat i learn..
    imo, the feel is much better by hand compare to pump..
    maybe is the air around the hose attach to the nipple, was draw into the nipple while the fluid is suck out from the tube..

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    Quote Originally Posted by tng2377 View Post
    Any guy buy steel braided hose and DIY before?Same method as changing the brake fluid ?
    not completely the same..
    cos u are filling the empty and small diamter of hose compare to replace of existing brake fluid..

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    Quote Originally Posted by tng2377 View Post
    Any guy buy steel braided hose and DIY before?Same method as changing the brake fluid ?
    yup it's the same method.
    Only difference is it'll take a longer time and more cycles of the fluid through the lines till the lines are primed before you start to perform bleeding of air from calipers and master cylinders.

    If you have time, let gravity do the work; this way you don't have to do the pump-hold-bleed action at all if done correctly. Just open the bleed nipple a little bit enough for fluid to drip out slowly carrying trapped air. But note that it'll take longer time.



     

     
  42. #92
    hachi
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    Quote Originally Posted by samson View Post
    btw can explain to me why isit must we change the brake fluid??
    Brake oil is the weakest link in the brake system....
    Most brake pads have max temp of 400C...
    Rotors,MC,brake lines and etc.....have no problems coping with high temp...
    Best brake oil DOT5.1 Motul RBF have very high boiling point to prevent vapor lock....

    Extreme thermal resistance and stability :
    Very high boiling point (325°C / 617°F), superior to conventional DOT 5.1 non silicone base
    Efficient when rainy :
    Very high wet boiling point (204°C / 400°F) far exceeds the requirements of DOT 3 & 4 & DOT 5.1


    This is the case of the best brake oil,imagine you are using ARCHIPARA brand...When wet boiling poing is only 100C or so and you have not change them for years......

    Good luck when you need them most.....I always change them every 6 month or so....Cost less than $10 to DIY...
    You have have the most desirable brake Setup but without good and fresh oil...Will they work?...At least I dont think so....
    Bikes Owned: LC125 RXZ135 GSXR400RP CB400VS CB400Spec2 SV650 02CBRF4i FZ1000 CBR929 05YZF-R6 CBR150 HondaSonic125 Yamaha_CygnusX125 KymcoGrandink_250 Hornet_250 04_Yamaha_Tmax Silverwing 400 FZ6_S2 GSXR600K7

    Current bikes: NIL

    Gear 4th

  43. #93
    Guapo
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    Quote Originally Posted by hachi View Post
    Brake oil is the weakest link in the brake system....
    Most brake pads have max temp of 400C...
    Rotors,MC,brake lines and etc.....have no problems coping with high temp...
    Best brake oil DOT5.1 Motul RBF have very high boiling point to prevent vapor lock....
    Not entirely right. They have limits too.

    Here's a read up for the rest of the lurkers.
    Biker Boy Zaihan Talks About Braking

  44. #94
    mjv
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    just another add......

    you can mix various brands and specs.......apart form DOT 5, that's for HD's only and I have seen guys doing it!!

    you really can't say the 5.1 is the best for any bike, if you run your bike from/back work every day it is simply a waster! it has the higher specs but it also has a big downside, absorbing water quicker.....and I would say that's the downfall for SIN.

    I was running my bikes for years on the DOT 4 stuff and never had an issue, even after track days/weekends and weeks in the Alps! Now I'm on the DOT 5.1 and I have to change the fluid twice a year as the rear brake fluid is ageing faster than before......

    mjv

  45. #95
    Aalex82
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjv View Post
    just another add......

    you can mix various brands and specs.......apart form DOT 5, that's for HD's only and I have seen guys doing it!!

    you really can't say the 5.1 is the best for any bike, if you run your bike from/back work every day it is simply a waster! it has the higher specs but it also has a big downside, absorbing water quicker.....and I would say that's the downfall for SIN.

    I was running my bikes for years on the DOT 4 stuff and never had an issue, even after track days/weekends and weeks in the Alps! Now I'm on the DOT 5.1 and I have to change the fluid twice a year as the rear brake fluid is ageing faster than before......

    mjv
    i agree to it..
    as it absorb water faster, the spongy feeling will resurface rather fast..
    that i oso hav to bleed every 6 months..
    i even hav to share a bottle wif my friend as the brake fluid cannot stay fresh (waterless) for long after opening..

    2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)
    2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK
    2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK
    2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)
    2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

  46. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aalex82 View Post
    the brake fluid cannot stay fresh (waterless) for long after opening..
    Very important.
    Make sure the bikeshop opens a new bottle when they service ur bike.
    Insist if not at least pay for a new bottle.

    Cheers !

  47. #97
    Beng23
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    LAB told me that my phamton bike needs 2 bottles of Dot 4 Putoline to change the brake fluid. So I paid $40 for the 2 bottles including servicing. But used less than 1 bottle.

    Sharing of experience helps to save money!!
    Last edited by Beng23; 08-03-2009 at 11:04 PM.

  48. #98
    Hydher
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    lab charged me $7 for 250 ml of the dot 4 putoline. Caltex and shell 7.90 for 500ml.

    Planet bleeding and fluid $20 for front and back.
    Dragstar 400 classic & Zx6r

  49. #99
    jtzx
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    so i'm a newbie. it's best just to go straight down to chong. ask him get it done for me?

    approx 2 year bleed brakes fuid once?
    JOSHUA
    class2B -26/2/09
    class 2A -27/7/10
    class 3 - 6/1/11
    class 2 - 30/8/12



  50. #100
    Beng23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hydher View Post
    lab charged me $7 for 250 ml of the dot 4 putoline. Caltex and shell 7.90 for 500ml.

    Planet bleeding and fluid $20 for front and back.
    So I got "chop" by LAB. By the way, where's Planet...at Ubi?

    Sharing of experience helps to save money!!

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