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Thread: DIY Guide: Bleeding n change of brake fluid

  1. #101
    Beng23
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtzx View Post
    so i'm a newbie. it's best just to go straight down to chong. ask him get it done for me?

    approx 2 year bleed brakes fuid once?
    Which Chong shop you go? Got address? Thank you guys.

    Sharing of experience helps to save money!!

  2. #102
    deadsoulz
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    Have tried the bleeding method on my front brakes(2 pot caliper), have get rid of all the air bubble but it seems that the piston in the brake caliper doesn't "protrude out" when brake fully depress thus its not pushing on the brake pads and no braking effect at all. The brake lever can be fully depress all the way and which shouldn't be the case. Before bleeding, I 've accidentaly retract the piston by pressing the brake pads onto the piston when changing the brake pads, now it seems that the piston doesn't "comes out". Found some info on the net that the piston might be rusty? Any one has any idea or remedy? thx.

     

     
  3. #103
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    There are still air in your brake lines.

    Keep doing it until you can feel pressure in the brake lever. If you are using the pump lever method, it takes many many pump at the lever to get air bleeded once you have introduced air into the system.

    Quote Originally Posted by deadsoulz View Post
    Have tried the bleeding method on my front brakes(2 pot caliper), have get rid of all the air bubble but it seems that the piston in the brake caliper doesn't "protrude out" when brake fully depress thus its not pushing on the brake pads and no braking effect at all. The brake lever can be fully depress all the way and which shouldn't be the case. Before bleeding, I 've accidentaly retract the piston by pressing the brake pads onto the piston when changing the brake pads, now it seems that the piston doesn't "comes out". Found some info on the net that the piston might be rusty? Any one has any idea or remedy? thx.

  4. #104
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    Thks for your advise... will get back to pumping the lever...

  5. #105
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    bleeding the brakes tomolo night... in case anyone wants to join. wish me luck! hahahaha...

    Cheers,
    HiLMi

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiLMi View Post
    bleeding the brakes tomolo night... in case anyone wants to join. wish me luck! hahahaha...

    Cheers,
    HiLMi
    if u hav the rite tools to diy bleeding, very high chances nothing will go wrong..

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    hahaha... agreed bro! postponed to tonight cos didn't have a size 8 wrench. initially tried the adjustable type, but couldn't grip properly enough, so didn't wanna risk rounding the nut. tonight it is!! hahaha...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aalex82 View Post
    if u hav the rite tools to diy bleeding, very high chances nothing will go wrong..
    well, you were right abt the bleeding. quite an ez affair cos managed to bleed 2 out of 3. my front right brake nipple refused to budge, and i suspect i've rounded the nut a tad too much. looks like a visit to the bike shop is needed soon...

    Cheers,
    HiLMi

  9. #109
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    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkxcQzhgJLU

    just share a clip for better understanding how to change brake fluid..

  10. #110
    Trueno
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    its nt that hard actually i hekpeed my friends bleed b4 eg s4,phanton,r1 even my blackbird w CBS hahaha all voice down to 1 thing do it nice n slow don ever rush.

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    whats the size of the tube u guys use to connect to the bleeder?
    where to get ah?

     

     
  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by AeROSmitH View Post
    whats the size of the tube u guys use to connect to the bleeder?
    where to get ah?
    get from the aquarium shop..
    juz get the normal grade..

    2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)
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    2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

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    hey guys im riding sp and i assume the nipple nut size is a universal size 8?

    i just wanna confirm which tool is used to unscrew the nut. i dont wanna end up with a round nut If its possible can someone post a pic of the tool, cuz im not sure which name belongs to which tool. thanks a LOAD
    Ride, Eat, Sleep, Repeat...

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ahys View Post
    hey guys im riding sp and i assume the nipple nut size is a universal size 8?

    i just wanna confirm which tool is used to unscrew the nut. i dont wanna end up with a round nut If its possible can someone post a pic of the tool, cuz im not sure which name belongs to which tool. thanks a LOAD
    size 8 ring spanner..

    2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)
    2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK
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  15. #115
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    Default spanner

    is that the ring spanner on the left? sorry very noob
    Ride, Eat, Sleep, Repeat...

  16. #116
    Phang
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    The tool in the picture is a combination wrench/spanner. It has an open wrench in one end and a 12 points ring wrench at the other end.

    You can use the ring end to open or close the bleed nipple.



    Avoid using the open end.



    Flare nut wrench/line wrench is the better tool, minimize the chances of rounding off the bleed nipple




  17. #117
    Ahys
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    Default !!!!!!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Phang View Post
    The tool in the picture is a combination wrench/spanner. It has an open wrench in one end and a 12 points ring wrench at the other end.

    You can use the ring end to open or close the bleed nipple.



    Avoid using the open end.



    Flare nut wrench/line wrench is the better tool, minimize the chances of rounding off the bleed nipple






    thank you bro!! really2 helpful with those pics
    ima get that tool now... ill update on how it goes..
    Ride, Eat, Sleep, Repeat...

  18. #118
    fmaorui
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    you could try finding Ah Heng, a bmech that works at Sunburst at AMK industrial hub. he does excellent servicing, better than most shops from what iI heard. plus if there're any problems arising after he's done he'll fix it up for you. last time I had some problems after maintenance he rectified for free

  19. #119
    pFittz
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    Very helpful guide, changed both my front and back brake fluid, after poor workmanship from shop caused lots of air bubbles in the system damn scary, both front and back brakes very loose. PRC *ahem* mechanic. Since then I only trust myself to service my brakes

    Heres a warning though, if your bike got fairing, please please cover it up nicely with newspaper or best, take out. Even if naked bike, the fluid might drip onto your front mudguard and destroy the paint.

  20. #120
    0401897D
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    anyone doing bleeding...i hav a bottle of dot 4 brake fluid 4 sale....didint got to use it

    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums...ht=brake+fluid

    interested pm me or msg me at 8 one 2 55 zero six 5

    Adi
    cooling off day

  21. #121
    naim
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    thanks for the guide! changed my both my front n back brake fluid! amazed at hw milky my rear ones were.. my front still ok, cux shop bled about 3 mths back.. was quite a quick job, although pumping my front brake was damn tiring! but very nice feeling! my rear brakes no longer spongy!
    A ride a day, keeps the doctor away!

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  22. #122
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    Upz for cool thread~
    Just give me a confirm answer

  23. #123
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    I had very spongey brakes (wave s) today on the way to vivo, to the point where i could depress my brake lever almost fully >_> so when I got home, started reading SBF, and figured I should check my brake reservoir..opened it and to my shock (and horror) it was completely empty..

    So I rushed to mustafa and tried to find some stuff to bleed/refill my brake fluid, but couldnt find the hose and stuff. Ended up buying some DOT4 from shell on the way home, and just topping up the reservoir. Now the brakes are alot better, more flex and feel, better stopping power too.

    But I can't help feeling worried that something is leaking >_> brake fluid doesnt just "disappear" or get "used up" like that right???? wiki says brake fluid isn't a "top-up" type of liquid..anyone know any ways o checking for leaks? or is the only option bringing it down to the mech....advise please! =\
    past rides: Wave-S, ZXR400-L7, DT200r, CMX250, SL750

  24. #124
    crazydj
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    Does anyone here find that stainless steel brake hoses are way too sensitive compared to the stock rubber ones?
    [2005 Yamaha YBR 125]


  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeyue View Post
    I had very spongey brakes (wave s) today on the way to vivo, to the point where i could depress my brake lever almost fully >_> so when I got home, started reading SBF, and figured I should check my brake reservoir..opened it and to my shock (and horror) it was completely empty..

    So I rushed to mustafa and tried to find some stuff to bleed/refill my brake fluid, but couldnt find the hose and stuff. Ended up buying some DOT4 from shell on the way home, and just topping up the reservoir. Now the brakes are alot better, more flex and feel, better stopping power too.

    But I can't help feeling worried that something is leaking >_> brake fluid doesnt just "disappear" or get "used up" like that right???? wiki says brake fluid isn't a "top-up" type of liquid..anyone know any ways o checking for leaks? or is the only option bringing it down to the mech....advise please! =\
    Well, if your fluid is old or you've been overheating the pads like mad, could cause it to boil off. More likely is that as you use up brake pad material, more fluid goes into the void where the pistons used to be. e.g. fluid goes down and stays in the piston cuz they have moved out more to push the thinner pads to the disc. You'll see the fluid level drop gradually over time as compared to when you have just installed new pads. If it's dropping at quite a rapid rate, yea, you might have a leak. How to check, i dunno, may one of the laojiaos come in to explain.

    Quote Originally Posted by crazydj View Post
    Does anyone here find that stainless steel brake hoses are way too sensitive compared to the stock rubber ones?
    Sensitive is good innit? Anyway, there shouldn't be too much of a diff if stock rubber ones are new as well. If old, noticable under hard braking only should be the norm. Perhaps it's the change of brake fluid which makes the brakes feel less spongy?





    I've just done my brake bleeding and would like to share a method posted on an overseas forum which gives a tip on how to bleed quickly with no bubbles!

    1) Crack open bleed nipple
    2) Attach tubing
    3) Route/Direct tubing upwards over handlebar and down the otherside into a bottle with old fluid covering the tube exit in it (Make sure bottle is propped higher than caliper position.
    4) Crack open bleed nipple, start pumping like crazy.
    5) Top up reservoir without letting it get empty.

    Gravity keeps the fluid column flowing "down" towards the bleed nipple, bubbles will head up the fluid column.
    Since you can pump hard and fast this way, bubbles in the brake lines get forced down the brake hose out of the caliper.
    As the fluid is flowing "downwards" when you let go, it doesn't suck air bubbles back in from the nipple (I applied a little silicone grease to the threads to keep air from going past the threads)

    Using this method and 500ml of fluid, I managed to bleed both front brakes in 15mins. And the rear in 10. Result? Solid-as-hell brake levers.

    edit: *just realised the only diff this is from the guide on the first page is the routing of the tubing up and over the handlebars. Not sure if it makes any diff, but in my mind, helps the bubbles get away from the bleed nipple as they head upwards.*
    Last edited by Tachnicolour; 07-05-2011 at 10:18 AM.

  26. #126
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    thanks for sharing. great write up
    Dragstar 400 classic & Zx6r

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    I just did mine. Isnt my first time though. No damage when dripped on my ride hmm.. anyway, im surveying prices. Dot 4. Shell 8.80. Ah boy putolene $8. Where to buy a proper fitting hose? thanks.
    Dragstar 400 classic & Zx6r

  28. #128
    crazydj
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tachnicolour View Post
    Sensitive is good innit? Anyway, there shouldn't be too much of a diff if stock rubber ones are new as well. If old, noticable under hard braking only should be the norm. Perhaps it's the change of brake fluid which makes the brakes feel less spongy?
    No the thing is that, you press a little bit, it will bite hard and press a little more and the wheel will lock. This is what i mean by sensitive.
    [2005 Yamaha YBR 125]


  29. #129
    lollibear
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    Seriously, 2 for this thread. Bled my bike brakes with confidence after reading this, and saved myself some money!

  30. #130
    elvinpeh
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    Hi guys need help here... When im done my bleeding i tighten the nipple n put bk the rubber for the nipple but when i do tat my nipple side will bleed out brake fluid.... Is it the nipple need to change?

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    Did you tighten it properly? How did you bleed that time when you pump and close the nipple? Was any fluid leaking out?
    [2005 Yamaha YBR 125]


     

     
  32. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazydj View Post
    Did you tighten it properly? How did you bleed that time when you pump and close the nipple? Was any fluid leaking out?
    ya i did tighten it... i put a dube at the nipple with a empty bottle i pump my brake for the air to come out when tighten the nipple i would hold the brake lever n tighten it...

  33. #133
    naim
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    Quote Originally Posted by elvinpeh View Post
    ya i did tighten it... i put a dube at the nipple with a empty bottle i pump my brake for the air to come out when tighten the nipple i would hold the brake lever n tighten it...
    U can try removing d nipple, clean the threads then wrap it wif a few layers of teflon plumbing tape. Make sure u dun block the hole at the bottom. Jux cover the threads. reinsert, then bleed again.

    Leaking very dangerous esp if d brake fluid drips onto ur disc.
    A ride a day, keeps the doctor away!

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  34. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by naim View Post
    U can try removing d nipple, clean the threads then wrap it wif a few layers of teflon plumbing tape. Make sure u dun block the hole at the bottom. Jux cover the threads. reinsert, then bleed again.

    Leaking very dangerous esp if d brake fluid drips onto ur disc.
    If i change new nipple Will it help? Where can i get one?

  35. #135
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    ty... now wouldnt bleed anymore....

  36. #136
    Isopropyl
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    just bleed my brake fluid last wednesday. got one bottle of carlube DOT 4 from NTUC at $6.90

    first time doing it. actually it is quite a simple and fast job. get a couple of friends to do it together so you guys can share the fluid as there will be plenty of left over if you do it alone.

    plan to do it yearly

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    naim
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    Its a good practice to do so yearly. Singapore being so humid, thr is bound to be alot of moisture absorbed into d brake fluid. Will prevent rusting of internal metal parts.
    A ride a day, keeps the doctor away!

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  38. #138
    Isopropyl
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    Quote Originally Posted by naim View Post
    Its a good practice to do so yearly. Singapore being so humid, thr is bound to be alot of moisture absorbed into d brake fluid. Will prevent rusting of internal metal parts.
    agree

    further more, it such a simple job there is no reason not to do it. even going to a motortiam is not expensive. i think it one of the most neglected fluid together with coolant for a bike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by naim View Post
    thanks for the guide! changed my both my front n back brake fluid! amazed at hw milky my rear ones were.. my front still ok, cux shop bled about 3 mths back.. was quite a quick job, although pumping my front brake was damn tiring! but very nice feeling! my rear brakes no longer spongy!
    I remove the bleed nipples totally, then slightly depress the brakes till the opening start to drip the fluid, stop depressing once the fluid start to flow. Then ensure to fill the master pump and don't let it dry out. No need to always depress the brake levers. When you see clear fluid flowing out, replace the bleed nipple. No need for drain pipe, just a container to collect the used fluid...

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    where to buy new bleed nipples? tokico 6 ports
    Dragstar 400 classic & Zx6r

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    A ride a day, keeps the doctor away!

    2010-2012 : Honda Phantom TA200
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    hi guys, just to share, instead of blaming it on the Master cylinder for the spongy braking, try cleaning out the pistons of your calipers.(dont be afraid.. read on)

    Works for dragging of brakes too(screeching) eg. when you spin your wheel, it cant spin freely.

    I had the problem of too much lever travel despite all sorts of bleeding methods. and was hesistant in getting a brembo master cylinder.
    In the end, i just cleaning the pistons for pratically FOC and now, the lever is great.
    Hope it stays this way.

    here is a very good video.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mteOSu7icCk
    Dragstar 400 classic & Zx6r

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    just a head up. if you have service your brake caliper at the bike shop, took note of the grease they use for the brake caliper pins.

    normally and almost all the time, bike shop just use some conventional grease which is bad for your caliper. conventional grease will just "cake up" under prolong heat condition. also, petroleum based grease will swell up some rubber components. this might cause your brake caliper to slide less freely causing drag and in worst case, jam up your brake.

    after using conventional grease for 6 months, i found the grease have harden. you need brake caliper grease or at least some silicone grease. i cleaned it up abit and apply some normal grease that i have for the time being until i get something better. now my front wheel rotate more freely

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    Try using copper grease on the back of the pads and the pins. They last longer as well since they are more water-resistant and holds up better under heat.
    A ride a day, keeps the doctor away!

    2010-2012 : Honda Phantom TA200
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    where to get this? I usually use heavy duty grease or silicone grease but have to service more often.

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    i have both permatex anti-seize and crc brake caliper grease.

    Its such a messy job that i avoid it.
    Dragstar 400 classic & Zx6r

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    after doing some research and stop short of ordering brake caliper specific grease oversea, i got some Dow Corning 111 compound from hardware shop. Dow Corning make good stuff but can be quite expensive.

    it one of the recommended grease for brake caliper job by dow corning although not theirs specific caliper pin grease. it more of a general purpose silicone grease which is suitable for the intented purpose. the good thing is i can use it for jobs other then caliper pins. it pretty inert so you can even use it for the caliper piston without affecting the brake fluid.

    it extremely clean grease and NLGI 3 rated which make it exceptional easy to work with. did i mention it is food grade grease?

    will update again in 6 months on how it hold up.

    here an interesting read on caliper pin grease.
    Last edited by Isopropyl; 11-12-2013 at 11:24 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ber View Post
    where to get this? I usually use heavy duty grease or silicone grease but have to service more often.
    those hardware shop near industrial area should carry it. it cost about $22 for a tin but should last you forever.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hydher View Post
    i have both permatex anti-seize and crc brake caliper grease.

    Its such a messy job that i avoid it.
    i almost got the CRC brake caliper grease too it a PAO based grease with FM and hence can be a bit messy.

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    bleed the brake fluid today. first time doing it alone so it a bit messy.

    next round i will standby a bottle of water to wash off the spill ASAP. brake fluid is water soluble so it should be enough to manage small amount of spill.

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