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Thread: DIY Guide: Bleeding n change of brake fluid

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    darren_soh86
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    I haven seen ani guides in the forum bout this so i tot i post my humble research here for the benefits of newbies like me... If you guyz find it useful can request to mods to make this sticky.. here goes:\

    I SUPER RECOMMEND tis to sum one hu has nvr change e brake fluid for a zillion yrs.. nw my rear brake lock lik no body business.. wahaha.. gif ur brakes new life !

    Personalli tested n proven, the below process works.. and i used:

    Shell DOT4 Brake n Clutch Fluid $6+
    0.5M of fish tank air pump pipe $0.20
    empty container FOC


    1. Open up the master cylinder and wrap a piece of cloth around it to absorb any spills, brake fluid are LETHALto your paintwork.



    2. Find out the specs of the brake fluid required by your machine by referring to the master cylinder cap. It comes in DOT. Dot 3, 4, 5 n so on. Buy a bottle of suitable brake fluid from any motordiam u like.



    3. Start by connecting a length of clear plastic hose to the caliper bleed screw. Run the other end of the hose into a clear plastic container. Pour a few ounces of fresh brake fluid into the container. This will seal the open end of the line and prevent air from siphoning back into the system.



    4. Open the bleed screw and pump the brake lever. You should see old, dirty fluid and perhaps a few air bubbles flowing out of the line.



    5. Pump the lever while keeping an eye on the master cylinder. Top off the master cylinder with fresh fluid whenever the level drops to the add mark. Don't forget to check your catch can occasionally. It's easy to overflow it with old fluid and create a real mess.



    6. Eventually you'll see only clean fluid flowing. At that point, tighten the bleed screw, pump the lever a few times and then, while holding the lever down, open the bleed screw as you normally would when bleeding the brakes. If no air bubbles or dirty fluid drains out, you're all done. If you’re working on a dual-caliper brake, repeat the process on the opposite caliper.



    7. Top off the master cylinder, secure the cap and you're good to go for another year!



    Source: http://motorcyclecruiser.com/tech/brakeserv04/

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    The method is correct. But for me before I attempt to do myself, I let the workshop to do first and I watch and learn from them. The next time round than I do myself.

    Cheers.
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    Gd for you......very detailed.... but for part 6, when you tighten the bleed screw after which you pump a few times, do you tighten with the brake depressed or released? somehow i have a feeling that there is a difference....


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    Before u lock the bleeder, press your break a few times until u found that the pressure is build up. (make sure u found no bubble coming out from the bleeder)
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    always press on to the lever while locking the bleeder nipple nut.
    Remember no bike is the fastest, no place is that far and no road is that tough.
    Mind Over Body

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    Originally posted by dominator@Mar 30 2005, 07:35 PM
    always press on to the lever while locking the bleeder nipple nut.
    yup i tink so too.. depress n tighten.. so that air dun get suck backwards into the system while u tighten..

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    still to chim and complicated for mi

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    must depress very hard. sometimes can squeeze half way only. then when u loosen the bleeder, the lever will go all the way in. but remember to tighten first before releasing the lever.
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    Originally posted by ambasnakeman@Apr 1 2005, 04:13 PM
    must depress very hard. sometimes can squeeze half way only. then when u loosen the bleeder, the lever will go all the way in. but remember to tighten first before releasing the lever.
    tat's mean hold it there until u tighten the nut,isit?

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    Originally posted by ProjectD@Apr 7 2005, 09:44 PM
    tat's mean hold it there until u tighten the nut,isit?
    yes
    Remember no bike is the fastest, no place is that far and no road is that tough.
    Mind Over Body

     

     
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    is it need the engine to run for the bleeding process?are they related?

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    Originally posted by IsphytonZ@May 23 2005, 11:10 AM
    is it need the engine to run for the bleeding process?are they related?
    Nop~ not related in ani way man..

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    I need to change my entire brake pump. Is there anything that I have to look out for when I drain the old brake fluid (so that I can install the new pump) and add brake fluid to the new pump? thanks!

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    Hi, how often shld I change my brake fluid? Wat's the frequency of changing of brake fluid like?
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    Originally posted by zeth83@Aug 3 2005, 08:18 AM
    Hi, how often shld I change my brake fluid? Wat's the frequency of changing of brake fluid like?
    Hi,

    Best to do it when the brake fluid is low (there's a window to where you can see your brake fluid level). Also done whent the brake fluid gets a bit "rotten".

    If in doubt, simply go around riding (and braking)...If you think your brakes are not giving you enough stopping power even when you squeeze the brake lever hard, then it's time to change the brake fluid. There's a post regarding brake effectiveness.

    As for frequency, up to you...For me, when my brakes are starting to lose its effectiveness and I know it's because of the fluid, change...
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    hi..need to top up my brake fluid...problem is i dont know what brand of fluid is already in my bike..and whether its dot 3 or dot 4...the instructions on the fluid window say dot 3 and dot 4 is ok...my qn is...is it all right to mix different brands? and is it ok to top up dot 4 if the fluid already in the bike is dot 3?

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    Originally posted by tyrant1983@Sep 15 2005, 06:13 PM
    hi..need to top up my brake fluid...problem is i dont know what brand of fluid is already in my bike..and whether its dot 3 or dot 4...the instructions on the fluid window say dot 3 and dot 4 is ok...my qn is...is it all right to mix different brands? and is it ok to top up dot 4 if the fluid already in the bike is dot 3?
    yes it's OK to mix. but what i suggest you do is to just bleed your brake, adding new fluid until it's clear. Esso sells a 500ml of DOT 4 fluid for only $6.70. LAB, Putoline 250ml DOT4, $5.

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    ok thanks for ur ans...but i have no idea where my master brake cylinder is much less noe how to bleed the brakes myself....riding a ta200...can advise? also...i have to repeat the process above for both front and rear brakes right?

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    hey i just now try to open the bleed screw but is so hard to open until the nut become round like this then i just top up the brake fluid should i change a new pair of brake pad if i top up my brake fluid?

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    Originally posted by CruSheR@Oct 15 2005, 07:12 PM
    hey i just now try to open the bleed screw but is so hard to open until the nut become round like this then i just top up the brake fluid should i change a new pair of brake pad if i top up my brake fluid?
    The "balding" of the bleed screw nut also happened to me too. Don't continue to force it, bring it to the mechs to solve.

    In your case, if you simply forgo the bleeding and proceed with the topping up of brake fluid, you still have your existing brake fluid still inside the brake pipe. And who knows, the brake fluid in there might be dirty. Plus, any air or water inside the pipe might still be in there so you have to bleed if these persists.

    * Bleed only if you think your brakes aren't performing well or as Mr Darren Soh stated above, every 1 year.
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    yup.. like wat i said... unless u too free den its alrite to do all the time..
    aniwae.. the problems u guyz encountered, regarding the brake nipple srew getting rounded..

    my front one is rounded and rusted sum more already.. i empathsize on the point.. if it gets rounded abit, STOP.

    u guyz can get to ur mech to solve it or here's a suggestion.. go to Vector1 to get the nipple replaced with a stainless steel one.

    regarding TA200.. the masterbrake cylinder is normally on the right handle bar, a small black box.. read the box cover and it says sumting bout DOT3 or DOT4. yes u do the same for front and back..

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    Originally posted by CruSheR@Oct 15 2005, 07:12 PM
    hey i just now try to open the bleed screw but is so hard to open until the nut become round like this then i just top up the brake fluid should i change a new pair of brake pad if i top up my brake fluid?
    Tuff on your rounded screw. Get a good vice grip and try to get out. Get a replacement on hand once that comes off. Try tapping the screw as you unscrew - it is probably locked in by rust.
    Check your pad for remaining friction material, there is an indicator wear grooves notched into the pad. If the pad is worn down to the bottom of that groove, change it. This is not related to fluid change or bleeding - which has its own maintenance and replacement regime.

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    where can i find the screws that actually hold the brake reservoir cap? my screws are all rusted liao i scared if i dun change them soon i'll have problem next time if i wanna do bleeding or topping up of the brake fluid. any stainless steel ones available? i ride a honda CBR 150R

    thanks in advance!
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    Actually you can get them from most hardware shop that sells screws. Just show them the sample when you reach the shop.

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    actually... if u feel difficulty in loosening the nut... dun force as it may round the nut. try reverse-engineering... spray WD40... then TIGHTEN the nut a bit and try loosening it. more often than not will work.
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    Had bleed my brake at Planet recently

    Did not see the mech tighten the brake nipple back...

    Will anything happen if it is not tighten?

    But i nv see any brake fluid flow out...

    Anyone can advised
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    Originally posted by aH_gUAn@May 22 2006, 12:23 PM
    Had bleed my brake at Planet recently

    Did not see the mech tighten the brake nipple back...

    Will anything happen if it is not tighten?

    But i nv see any brake fluid flow out...

    Anyone can advised
    if not tighten fluid will cum out.. if u are unsure, juz tighten it urself lo..

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    It took me a few times reading this and checking the original article before I spotted a very important part in section 3 which is rare/original compared to other online guides: "Pour a few ounces of fresh brake fluid into the container. This will seal the open end of the line and prevent air from siphoning back into the system." Of course, the tube would have to extend to the bottom of container below the level of the fresh brake fluid to be effective.

    This makes this simple method a true "one man brake job" without requiring a second person to hold the brake lever down while you tighten the bleeder screw. It also seems to remove the necessity for (1) expensive MityVac (2) Speedbleeders - which I almost bought and (3) one-way valves to fit inside the clear hose - which I was trying to find in Singapore!

    The extra brake fluid in the container acts as the "one way valve" preventing air back into the system. Thanks Darren for sharing the article.

    Anyone know where to get Valvoline Syntetic Brake/Clutch fluid or similar synthetics at a good price?

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    Originally posted by iliew@Jun 21 2006, 02:30 PM
    It also seems to remove the necessity for (1) expensive MityVac (2) Speedbleeders - which I almost bought and (3) one-way valves to fit inside the clear hose - which I was trying to find in Singapore!
    Have u ever thought of using a big syringe ???
    Same actions performed. Suck out old fluid without letting air back in.
    Also a 1 man operation ! Cheap too !

    Cheers !

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    can someone explain no.5 in details?
    as i dun get wat they are tokking abt in technical jargon.
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    Can I check if this procedure can apply if i DIY change the brakelines?

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    Originally posted by rAjOaNa@Sep 8 2006, 09:43 PM
    can someone explain no.5 in details?
    as i dun get wat they are tokking abt in technical jargon.
    5. Pump the lever while keeping an eye on the master cylinder. Top off the master cylinder with fresh fluid whenever the level drops to the add mark. Don't forget to check your catch can occasionally. It's easy to overflow it with old fluid and create a real mess.

    Bottom of the brake line, you have the "catch" which is a bottle connected to collect the dirty fluid.

    At the top, you have the "master cylinder", where brake fluid is to be poured in during the bleed process.

    Basically, it's like this: To flush away the old fluid, pour some fluid into the master cylinder. Doing so would push the fluid down the brake line and into the catch.

    The author also stated that to completely flush away the old fluid, you need to force [the liquid inside the brake line] down as well. Pump the brake lever (squeeze it, let-go, squeeze it, let-go) while you pour the brake fluid capful by capful.

    Stop when all the dirty fluid is flushed out and new fluid starts to come out from the bottom "catch" without any bubbles. Quickly tighten the bleed screw -- that will stop any more fluid from flowing out, implying that you're done with the whole bleeding process.

    Hope this helps.
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    bleeding both brakes lines together?
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    where can i discard all the old brake fluid?

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    a new brake fluid is abt $5-$6, so how much would it be to get it done at shops?
    heard most shops would ask you to change the hose as well when u change the fluid. it is necessary?

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    how long does it takes to do bleeding when changing the brake hoses??

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    Originally posted by LimHammett@January 11, 2007 12:08 pm
    how long does it takes to do bleeding when changing the brake hoses??
    abt a hour plus..
    unless u hav the equipment, if not u hav to do very very slowly..

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    Originally posted by thepunkz@January 11, 2007 10:54 am
    a new brake fluid is abt $5-$6, so how much would it be to get it done at shops?
    heard most shops would ask you to change the hose as well when u change the fluid. it is necessary?
    not really necessary unless your rubber hoses are showing signs of wearing out...
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    Originally posted by Aalex82@January 12, 2007 08:22 am
    abt a hour plus..
    unless u hav the equipment, if not u hav to do very very slowly..
    hmm..

    bro.. bleeding wat type of equipment they use to speed it up??

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    Originally posted by LimHammett@January 12, 2007 01:09 pm
    hmm..

    bro.. bleeding wat type of equipment they use to speed it up??
    some bike shop hav a equipment that they connect to the air hose..
    the fluid is then pump into the hose straightaway..

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    Originally posted by Aalex82@January 13, 2007 08:15 am
    some bike shop hav a equipment that they connect to the air hose..
    the fluid is then pump into the hose straightaway..
    air hose?? u mean the bleeding hole issit??

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    Hmmm.... just so happened the Galfer steel braided brake hoses I ordered for my DRZ was DHL to me today. Will be swopping out the lines tomorrow.

    The fastest way to 'prime' a newly fitted brake line is to just open the bleed valve and keep pumping on the brake lever. The level in the brake reservoir will drop very fast so you would want to keep an eye on that, you want to keep topping up the reservoir to maintain a full level. If you let the reservoir dry out... you will introduce air into the brake lines and the 'bleeding' process is going to take you quite a while and will use up alot of brake fluid.

    Once there is a bubble free flow of brake fluid from the bleed valve, indicating that the lines are now 'primed' with brake fluid... you close the bleed valve and start bleeding the brakes.

    While priming the lines or bleeding the brakes... it is advisable to cover the brake reservoir temporarily with the cap.. or else a little geyser of brake fluid is going to fly up and splash all over the bike during the return stroke.


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    Originally posted by LimHammett@January 13, 2007 12:28 pm
    air hose?? u mean the bleeding hole issit??
    nope..
    is the bike shop air hose where they insert their compress gun to open super tight nuts..
    or use the compressed air to blow away dirt when they wash yr carb..

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    orite guys thanks! now i understand the bleeding process.. gonna fix venhill lines for my sp soon!


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    It's all good advice that has been posted here, I would like to add a couple of things, most manufacturers recommend changing the barke fluid every two years. It draws in water and can cause the fulid to boil under hard braking as well as causing corrosion in the system. If you get air into the system bleed as already described, often you will find it can be really difficult to get all of the air out. If this is the case here is a handy tip that really works, with the system in its normal condition, ie bleed nipple closed and system topped up with fluid, cable tie or tie wrap the brake lever back to the handle bars, or as far as you can get it and leave it overnight. In the morning simple cut the cable tie free and you will often see air bubbles pass through to the master cylinder. remember to cut off the cable tie as starting off in the morning with the front brake full on just isnt funny! Except for any bystanders.
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    just a question to ask. how much does it cost to get the brake fluid done at motorshop?

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    Was at motordiam just now... per line S$15.

    So min $30 for front/rear.

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    wa, per brake line $15? like real ex compare to D.I.Y.

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    maybe other brothers have better priced motorshop to recommend (other then agl in JB)

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