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Thread: Newbie's Guide To Bikes

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    Metalfyre
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    Since PKC's a forum that caters to new riders, there would invariably be some fresh license holders coming in, asking little questions to ascertain which bike they'd invest their hard earned moolah on...so I've decided to, instead of repeating myself over and over again, compile a small list of what I think every new rider should know, as this knowledge will definately influence the rider's final decision on his or her ride.

    Here goes.


    Summarize of Newbies Topic Covered


    • Type Of Category Of Bikes

    • Engine Type

    • Class 2B Bikes Reviews

    • Getting Your Bikes

    • Get the best Cover

    • Buying The Right Helmet

    • Riding Gears

    • Looking after your No.1

    • Getting Accquainted

    • Type of Final Transmission

    • 2A Bikes Review

    • 2A Bikes Reviews part 2

    • Continue on 2A Bikes Reviews

    • Class 2 Bikes

    • Facts on Carb VS EFI Bikes

    • Newbie Guide to Sprocket and Chain Modification

    • Newbie Guide to Sprocket and Chain Modification 2

    • Newbie Guide to Sprocket and Chain Modification 3

    • Good tips on pumping petrol to give you some extra $mileages.



    -------------------------------------


    Disclaimer
    All the info here is based on my personal know-how (what i heard, what I read), so there may be certain mistakes. Any one spot a mistake just lemme know and I'll amend..

    Any requests on a certain topic, just ask and I'll help as far as possible.

    Other lao jiaos can come in too

    I'll add more as I think of more stuffs too...

    I hope this helps...

    -----------------------------------

    update by Kev on 4/3/11
    Last edited by Kev's; 04-03-2011 at 02:00 PM.
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    What's the difference?
    Do You Know Your Retros From Your Roadsters And Your Scooters From Your Commuters? Here's A Handy Guide...

    Superbike
    These are what you see hurtling past you at Pasir Gudang of a Sunday afternoon. Superbikes are usually either 750cc or 1000cc inline fours (Kawasaki ZX-7R or Yamaha R1 for example), or 1000cc V-twins (Ducati 999 or Aprilia Mille), are very high performance with a typical top speed of 170mph. They are light, manoeuvrable bikes that are ideal for Sunday blasts and the odd track day, but you wouldn't be wanting to ride to the North of West Malaysia on one - well, you can, but you'd be needing a new backside by the time you got to Butterworth. For under 30k, you get the performance of cars that cost many times as much - we're talking 0-100mph in less than six seconds here.

    Retros
    Retros are typically large-engined, unfaired brutes with not a great deal of ground clearance. They do, however, offer a comfortable riding position, so long as you don't want to do hundreds of miles at 100mph plus. Some say retros are just parts-bin specials: unwanted engines slung into bendy frames with half-decent suspension.
    To that we say poo poo, because although it may be true, retros are far better than the sum of their parts. Big wide bars and large seats make them great in town and for fast-ish sunny Sunday blasts - a lot of R1 riders are most surprised when a man on a GSX1400 comes past them on a long straight.

    Roadster
    Roadsters sit right in the middle of the biking rainbow - they're user-friendly, comfy, fun, practical, quick and handle pretty well. They'll do pretty much everything thrown at them, even the odd track day. Middleweight roadsters like the Fazer 600 and Hornet 600 are cheap to insure (well, relatively) and offer close-to-sportsbike performance. Others in that class, like the Kawa ZR-7 and CB500, offer less performance but are more comfortable and practical. Larger roadsters are good for wheelies but, with a set of luggage, you can tour too. Handling and brakes on large roadsters are good - they tend to get last year's sportbike kit, which is nice.

    Sports-Tourer
    Sports-tourers are, traditionally, the bikes that can do it all. Honda's VFR800 is universally acknowledged as the best do everything bike money can buy. Of course, there are bikes that are comfier than a sports-tourer and there are bikes that are faster but these give you the chance to get plenty of use out of one model.
    If you want to load up with luggage and pillion, travel across the NSHW in comfort, but still want a touch of spice, a sports-tourer is the one for you.

    All Rounder
    Often unfaired, but by no means always, and rarely a machine at the cutting edge of technology (Yamaha Diversion anyone?), an all-rounder will rarely shine at any one aspect of motorcycling, but should be able to make a decent fist of anything you throw at it.
    There'll be a fair bit of cross-over between an all-rounder and a roadster, but all-rounders tend to fall more on the sensible shoes side - although Ducati's new Multistrada bucks that trend.

    Supermoto
    Supermoto is a product of the continental fascination for taking motocross bikes, throwing away the knobblies, fitting sticky road rims and tyres, and racing them on mixed dirt and tarmac racetracks. Now many of the main factories have caught on and offer them as standard bikes. Typically large single cylinder four-strokes, they tend to be ace on backroads and for stunts, and less useful on faster roads.

    Trail/Off Road
    If it's got knobbly tyres, it's a trail bike, but that doesn't mean it'll actually be any good off-road. Some, like Suzuki's DR-Z400, have quite useful off-road abilities but the bigger the bikes get, the harder they are to muscle around on the dirt and even harder to pick up when (not if...) they fall over. Some bikes are more for off-road than on - KTM and Husqvarna, for instance, make serious competition bikes that have just enough legality to use them on the road.

    Supersports
    Supersports bikes really are baby superbikes. Probably the most hotly-contested market segment, 600cc supersports bikes are the weapon of choice for many as they're about half as expensive to insure as superbikes and, for most, they don't need very much more power than the 100 or so bhp on tap. Current kings are the GSX600R and the Kwak ZX636R.
    These middleweights are quick, agile and usually a bit more comfortable than their bigger brothers. They're also lighter, in the main, which makes them easier to sling around twisty backroads. These versatile bikes are all inline four-cylinder (besides Ducati's 748 and 749), so there's always plenty of power waiting at the other end of the throttle cable.

    Tourer
    Vast, huge, massive settees on wheels capable of getting you from Watford to Warsaw in three days with only the faintest hint of backside ache. Honda's GoldWing is the daddy, and comes complete with reverse gear, CD player and a fridge, most probably.
    They're bikes which can safely carry half of your wardrobe in the capacious panniers, they have great big fairings to hide behind, are mostly shaft-drive and have smooth, multi-cylinder engines (besides Harley's Electra Glide which, as with all Harleys, is a V-twin with belt drive, and some flat-twin BMWs).
    The downside with tourers is that they are heavy and hard to move around at low speed - they're the oil tankers of the bike world: imposing and sedate, but tricky to turn around in a hurry, and not ideal as daily drivers.

    Cruiser
    Almost all cruisers are based on one Harley Davidson design or another and all of the major manufacturers (dave for Ducati and Aprilia) have at least one in their model ranges.
    Typically, they are V-twins in a variety of different capacities - anything from Yamaha's XV125 Drag Star up to Honda's mighty VTX1800 - and are all about riding in style. Cruisers are not for backlane scratching, they're more for posing on the high street.
    All large capacity cruisers have the same feet-forward riding position, and have masses of torque, meaning you can leave it in top gear and just roll on and off the throttle to overtake.
    To get the full cruiser experience you need to be on a Harley Road King, doing the NSHW with no lid and wearing sunglasses.

    Hypersports
    These bikes are all about speed. The three fastest bikes in the world are hypersports bikes - Suzuki's Hayabusa, Kawasaki's ZX-12R and Honda's Blackbird - and are all capable of 180mph with ease. All of them are pretty comfortable - truth be told they're really just bloody quick sports-tourers.
    Hypersports bikes aren't the lightest or most agile machines in the world, but they handle pretty well. Double figure cruising is what hypersports bikes are all about, which is fine on police-free French autoroutes, but no much on local teepee infested highways.
    All of that power (160bhp or so) is fine and dady but don't expect your rear tyre to last very long. Having the fastest bike in the world is great for pub one-upmanship but you'll never use all the performance unless you live in Germany.

    Scooter
    Most of the scooters on the road today are characterised by their twist and go automatic transmissions, which allow anyone who can ride a pushbike to hop on and not have to worry about clutch and gearbox control. The few exceptions are a few traditional scooters from Vespa and a couple of Indian manufacturers, which have clutch and gearbox arrangements. Scooters always used to be 2-strokers but now clean, fuss-free 4-strokers are starting to take over.

    Super-Scooter
    Once upon a time 125cc was considered pretty big for a scooter, with 200cc reserved for the real speed freaks. Now, a whole new breed has appeared, with 250s common, and a few much bigger scoots like Yamaha's 500cc TMax and Suzuki's huge and stately 650cc Burgman at the forefront (it has electronic quick-change gear selection). These are scooters you could go touring on, with big comfy seats, load of luggage space, and true 100mph crusing capability.

    Commuter
    Not the most exciting bikes on the planet, but they're built to do a job, and that job is to carve through stationary traffic to get you to work in time - and to do it cheaply and efficiently.
    Scooters have taken over the bulk of this market in recent years, but most of the manufacturers still offer a few worthy machines, usually using faily old engines and running gear - Honda's CB250 has an engine almost identical to the Dream and Superdream of twenty five years ago...
    Last edited by Kev's; 04-03-2011 at 10:40 AM.
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  3. #3
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    Engine Types
    Another guild to different engine setups

    Single Cylinder Thumpers
    These are engines with one piston and block. Provides you with plenty of low end torque, which translates into initial pickups from standstill positions, but suffers in the top end (top speed). Mostly found in scramblers that need the power to get over the myraid bumps they find on their forays into offroad trails. Most 2B bikes possess this setup as well.

    V-twins
    V-twins are engines with two cylinders and blocks, set up in a Vee shape in varying degrees. This setup brings you power on the low end of the tacho, best optimised when you roll on your throttle. Top speed however, is hardly fantastic. More suited for city riding where you can overtake easily by simply throttling past stagnant traffic.

    V4
    A V4 engine is something like a V-twin doubled over. Two cylinders on each side to form a Vee shape, which provides fantastic midrange power. Best suited for our local highways, where you are cruising around in your midrange where your powerband is, without busting any traffic laws.

    Inline 4
    An inline 4 setup has 4 cylinders lined up in a row. Peak power comes when the bike is screaming at the top end, and this setup augments the bike's top speed. It's at its best when you need to maintain a high speed for a relatively long distance, for instance, in the NSHW.
    Last edited by Kev's; 04-03-2011 at 11:15 AM.
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    Class 2B Bike Review
    (Only popular models..u want other reviews ask me hor)
    disclaimer: based on personal opinion

    Phantom TA150/200
    Pros: Fuel efficient, standard Honda reliability, stylish, relaxed riding posture.
    Cons: Unbalanced weight distribution, which may put new riders off, also leads to iffy handling in the wet. Long wheelbase may also prove to be an obstacle to fresh license holders in handling the bike confidently.

    Shadow 125
    Pros: Humongous fuel tank, looks almost exactly like its bigger 400cc brother.
    Cons: No power. At all.

    Honda NSR150SP
    Pros: Well balanced, with pro-arm give more umph when taking corners. Sporty and stylish looking.
    Cons: No longer in production, so very likely to have been abused before, attracts attention from teepee, power cut limits speed to 160km/h on its meter (unless FP plate)

    Kawasaki KRR150ZX
    Pros: Well balanced, cheapest sportsbike in the 2B range (not counting TZR), decent top speed.
    Cons: Poor fairing design; you lose a chuck of fairing when you slide, attracts attention from teepee, very common since its cheap.

    Yamaha TZM
    Pros: King of 2B, fastest top speed (among jap bikes)
    Cons: No longer in production, 99% possibility of having been abused before, pricey, fuel tank position jeopardises family jewels.

    Yamaha RXK
    Pros: Super cheap. Easy to maintain.
    Cons: Super old, prone to breakdowns. Super uncle style. Ice cream tires.

    Yamaha RXZ
    Pros: Cheapest to repair, easy to maintain, decent speed and handling
    Cons: Uncle style. Ice cream tires.

    EN125, YBR125
    Pros: Fuel efficient. Reasonable handling.
    Cons: Laughable top speed. Uncle style.

    Aprillia RS 125
    Pros: Best handling ever, wide protective fairings. Sharp looks.
    Cons: Really, REALLY expensive & frequent maintainence.

    Cagiva Mito 125
    Pros: Has stock steering damper. Capable of really serious speeds.
    Cons: Another biatch to maintain.

    Any Kup Kia
    Pros: Most fuel efficient. Nimble in traffic. Convenient basket access.
    Cons: Small fuel capacity, light enough to be swept to another lane when optimus prime moves past, often mistaken as malaysian. Ice cream tires.

    (scrambler i know nuts...i'll let other ppl add)
    (please don't PM and ask me about scooters...the only scooter lim peh ever rode in my lifetime = the electric scooter 3 yr old ginnar ride around chinatown, $2 for 30 minutes one. Those who know and got time please add here)
    Last edited by Metalfyre; 13-04-2010 at 01:15 AM.
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    Getting Your Bike
    Ok, so now you've decided on what kind of bike you'd like to be seen whizzing down highways on. But how to be sure you get yourself a good deal, and how to avoid a lemon?

    Do Your Homework
    Look around, surf the net, read up on bike magazines. Making sure you really know what you're getting into when you get a particular bike will ensure you're happy with your ride and thus, save money on a bike change just because you feel you don't like a particular aspect of the bike some time down the road.
    Check out bike shops, classified ads on the net to get a rough feel on how much that particular bike model's going to bleed your wallet. For ads that open their prices to negotiation, you can probably slash $200-300 from your price estimate. Once you've ascertained which rides are going off at a bargain price, arrange a viewing.

    Get A Friend
    Get a friend to accompany you on your viewing trip, preferrably a mechanic. If you can't find a mechanic friend, find someone who's been in the biking world for quite some time. Being new to the biking world, there will be certain things you won't know what to make out off; the seller might tell you that the cranking buzz you hear when you throttle at the fifth gear is a normal occurance, but your mechanic friend would know better.

    Plan Your Finances
    When scouting or negotiating, always leave at least half a grand aside for maintainence purposes. Remember, when you are getting a second hand ride, you are buying something that the seller doesn't want, for some reason. Whether that reason is just because he wants to ride something bigger, or because the crankshaft is faulty, you don't want to be finding out that reason especially when you've blown your last wad of cash getting the machine, only to have it die on you in the carpark on your first day at work. Remember, you have to factor in the insurance and transfer fees as well.

    Just in case you can't get a bike savvy friend to tag along, here are some tips I stole from somewhere (lazy to type out myself) that'll give you an idea as to what to look out for when you go viewing bikes

    Look at it!
    Don't just start the engine and take it round the block. Start examining the front end and work your way through to the tail light. Note every single fault you see on a piece of paper (so you don't forget) and also note its likely cost.

    Looking at the bike first will also allow the engine to cool slightly, if the seller has warmed it up before you arrived, and engines should always be started from cold just to see if they do start easily!

    1) Front tyre:
    Should have plenty of tread. Look for cuts and gashes. Budget S$40 - 150 for a replacement (according to model)

    2) Brakes:
    Check thickness of disc pads by squinting down the caliper. Budget S$20 a set for replacements (ie: S$40 for a double disc front end).
    Drum brakes - see if the adjuster at the brake end has been fully wound in. If so, the linings are close to the limit. Again, budget S$20 a set for new linings.

    3) Forks:
    Squint at them sideways to make sure they are straight and parallel. If not, the bike has been in a crash, and the frame may be bent as well.

    Look for any oil leaks from the seals and signs of pitting on the fork stanchions (the polished bits) themselves. People sometimes replace the seals but leave the pitting and the pits will wear out new seals in days. Budget S$10 per seal (if you do the work yourself) and S$70 for full servicing per stanchion.

    4) Head race bearings:
    If the bike has a centre stand get someone to push down the back of the bike to lift the front wheel off the ground. If not, pull the bike towards you on the side stand to lift the front wheel. Turn the bars gently. If you feel a notch, or worse still, several, the head races are shot and need replacement. New races will cost about S$30 (again, depends on bike model) and mean stripping down the front end to fit them. A dealer will charge about S$100 for the whole job.

    5) Lock stops:
    These are the lugs welded to the steering head that stop the bars turning before they bash into the tank. If the bike has been dropped or crashed, they will be bent or otherwise damaged. This is a danger sign!

    6) Bar ends, mirrors, lever ends:
    Look for scrape marks as a sign that the bike's been down the road. These are easy and cheap to replace, so don't take an absence of scrapes as a sign that the bike's never been dropped.

    7) Bodywork:
    If it's non-standard, be suspicious: it might have had a respray after a crash. In any case, non-standard paint generally knocks down the resale value of a bike.

    8) Frame:
    On alloy beam frames look for any signs of deformation where the rails bend towards the headstock. Alloy is softer than steel and much harder to fix. Any signs of damage - walk away

    9) Rear suspension:
    Grab the rear tyre and try and move it from side to side. Play here means wear in the rear suspension bearings. This can be easy or difficult to fix, depending on how complex the rear end is and whether the bearings will be all seized and rusted into place. Assume the worst.

    Bounce on the seat. A dry creaking noise from the suspension indicates worn and seized linkages. This can cost up to S$150 to fix. The rear end should also bounce once, returning to its former position. If it boings up and down two or three times, or just sags, the rear shock(s) is/are worn out. This will cost at least S$250 and maybe as much as S$800 to replace with a decent aftermarket unit on a big bike. Twin-shock bikes are cheaper, but still allow S$150 - 200.

    10) Rear tyre:
    Should have plenty of tread. Look for cuts and gashes. Budget S$40-S$150 for a replacement, according to size of bike!

    11) Rear brakes:
    Check and budget as per front

    12) Rear wheel bearings:
    Grab top and bottom of rear wheel and try to move it from side to side. If it does rock slightly, the rear wheel bearings are shot. Easy job, but still budget S$20 for replacements

    13) Chain & sprockets:
    Look at the wear indicators (if fitted) and the chain adjuster marks (if not). If the rear wheel is pulled far back on the adjusters, the chain is worn out.

    See if you can pull a link off the rear sprocket. if you can, it's shot.
    A dry slack rusty chain will also cast doubt over how the rest of the bike has been looked after.
    Look for wear and hooking on the sprocket teeth. A new chain will cost S$70-80 for a big bike. A chain and sprocket set will cost over S$200! More if you intend to use gold-chain.

    14) Engine:
    Before starting, look for any signs of oil leaks and the presence of gasket cement (usually red, sometimes clear/white). If you see gasket goo oozing from joints, walk away. The engine has been rebuilt by a careless motodiam. The Japanese don't use the stuff except on crankcase joints and sometimes on camshaft end caps, after all. Even then, they use it very sparingly. Someone who's slapping the stuff around like cement is too tight to buy proper gaskets, and too careless to worry. Gasket goo is good stuff, but excess goo can get sucked into the lube system and filter and block them, and wreck the engine. It just isn't worth the risk.
    It should start instantly. If it churns away on the starter for ages before firing, or if the starter rattles and clunks, just walk away. Again, it's not worth the risk.

    Let the engine warm up properly. There should be no rattles. Rattles from the top end indicate camshaft or camchain wear. This can be expensive to fix.

    Rattles or rumbles from the bottom end of the engine indicate crankshaft or main bearing wear. This can be very expensive to fix. Walk away.

    When test riding, rev the engine hard in as many gears as you can, then shut the throttle off, go down hard on the over-run, and whack the throttle open again. If it's going to jump out of gear, this is when it will do it.

    Also, as you whack it open after going down on the over-run, look behind you for smoke. This action forces oil into the bores. A little puff of smoke is normal. A cloud isn't, and means the rings and/or valve guide seals are worn.

    See if it steers properly hands-off. Beware wobbles! If it shows a reluctance to turn in one direction and a tendency to dive into another, the frame is probably bent from an accident. (only to be attempted by an experienced rider)

    Try the brakes, hard, several times. Make sure you aren't being tailgated when you do this....
    When you get back, listen again to the engine. It should sound quieter and sweeter than it did when it was started from cold.

    15) Electrics:
    Check every single function. If you have a multimeter, put it across the battery terminals and measure. It should read about 12.5v and rise to maybe 14.5v as the revs rise. If it doesn't, or if it shoots up past 20v, the regulator/rectifier is fried and maybe the alternator with it. Cost: maybe S$100 for a reg/rec and S$50 for a rewound alternator.

    If you haven't a multimeter, turn the lights on and see if they brighten when the engine is revved. It won't tell you if the reg/rec is fritzed, but it will tell you the alternator is working.

    16) Paperwork:
    The registration document or logbook is vital. It tells you everything you need to know. It should bear the bike's registration number, the engine number, the frame number, the colour. Check all of these. Be very suspicious if there's a discrepancy. Engine and/or frame numbers not tallying mean it's almost certainly stolen. On no account believe the "I'm selling it for a mate" or "I haven't got around to changing the logbook" stories. This may not matter to you, but it will probably mean that he's working on a profit margin and will not be amenable to offers. The logbook also carries the name and address of the last owner and the date the bike last changed hands. The newer log card version only carries the name and address of the current owner. If this was very recently, be suspicious. Why is the seller getting rid of it so fast? hhhmmmm...

    ON NO ACCOUNT BUY A BIKE WITHOUT A LOGBOOK/LOGCARD. DO NOT ACCEPT PHOTOCOPIES.

    If someone says he does his own maintenance, ask him what the valve clearances should be or what grade of oil he uses - competent mechanics know these details. Ask if he has a manual. If not, how does he do the work? If so, oily thumbprints on the relevant pages are a good sign (but oily thumbprints on pages detailing, for example, gearbox rebuilds, may not be!)

    17) Haggling:
    Tot up the cost of every single worn or damaged component you have noticed, using the guide above. Compare the resultant figure to the cost of an equivalent bike in a dealer's price. Point out that the dealer will sell the bike with decent tyres, brakes, etc, plus a warranty. You want to aim for a price that's 20% less than what the dealer is asking, when all is said and done. If a lot of work needs to be done, make that 30%, to cover the hassle factor. If the seller can't see the logic of your arguments, walk away. You might as well buy from a another dealer.

    18) Accessories:
    Some add to the value of the bike: most don't. Almost every BMW ever sold comes with panniers/box - they're worth less if they aren't. A Harley that's got the usual desirable mods done - carb, pipe, brakes etc. - will fetch more than one that doesn't. To a lesser degree this applies to some Italian bikes as well. Apart from these exceptions, extra money spent on tuning, go-faster, handle-better, look-neater, weigh-less mods will not add one penny to the value. They may even detract from it. On some Japanese bikes (Yamaha FJ1200, 900 Diversion, Honda VFR750, Honda Africa Twin 750) a decent luggage kit may add S$150 - 300 to the value.

    To sum up, you can spend five thousand dollars on gold-plating a Hayabusa or an R1, but you won't sell it for five thousand more than an unplated one. Get it?

    19) If humanly possible, take someone with you when you buy:
    A sceptical mate will not be blinded by the shiny paint and the "I-wannit-now" syndrome, and may save you a fortune. Enough said.

    20) Finally ......
    Make sure you read through every paper you sign and don't forget to check and see that there's some form of black and white guarantee on the bike (for at least a month). Changing ownership of a bike can be done directly at the LTA with both parties present (or get hold of either one's IC) and insurance transfer can also be done at the insurance office itself. Some people go through bike shops which charge a ridiculous amount! So be warned...
    Last edited by Kev's; 04-03-2011 at 11:57 AM.
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  6. #6
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    Get The Best Cover

    Most people begrudge paying for insurance. After all, it can be expensive and you don't get anything in exchange for your money, except a certificate. But then you have an accident and, as you look over the carnage, it begins to make sense. You can walk away (within reason) leaving someone else to sort out the mess, whether you caused it or not. Hopefully it never comes to that. No one intends to have an accident, which is why paying money for something you never intend to use can seem like a leg lift. But then motor behicle insurance is a legal requirement so it doesn't matter how we feed - just knuckle under and cough up.

    What Is Insurance?

    Insurance is, in a nutshell, risk sharing. Yep, you're actually getting way more than just a piece of paper, which is a good thing considering the fortune you're forking out for this bit. I'm going to try to explain insurance as simply as I can, which will hopefully serve to make new riders a bit more willing to get the right cover they need.

    For simplicity's sake, imagine this community of bikers has a total population of 100 people. And assume each of these 100 people earn $100 every year. Everyone spends their money the way they see fit, to maximise their pleasure...to eat to survive etc. Now, let's say the statistics say that every year, 1 person out of these 100 will get into an accident. The victim loses everything to pay for repairs, hospital bills, as well as not being able to work.

    So we have:
    Population: 100
    Wage per person: $100
    1/100 per year will have his income drop to 0 due to an accident.

    Nobody wants to be that 1 person, and since this community is so caring...every year everyone will get together and donate $1 to whoever suffered from the accident. This reduces everyone's annual wage to $99, but also ensures that all 100 will have $99 every year; you will either lose $1 donating, or gain $99 if you are the accident victim.

    So if 1 person was appointed as the 'treasurer', and everyone gave their $1 to him ahead of time instead of looking for the accident victim, that 'treasurer' becomes the insurer. The accident victim will look for the insurer for reimbursement after the accident happens. This is the accident claim.

    How Premiums Are Calculated

    Sceptical as they make us, insurance quotes are premiums are not figures plucked from the sky. They are simply calculated risks and take into account several variables. These are usually age, experience, driving record, occupation, age and model of bike, how much it will be used and what it will be used for, the cost of repairs for that particular model and, of course, no claims discounts. Improve any single variable in the eyes of the insurers and your premium will fall.

    In all, paying $1 every year to ensure you don't ever have to lose $100 is a pretty good deal.

    Types Of Cover
    Third Party is the lowest type of cover available, and is therefore the cheapest. The odd thing is, it doesn't cover you at all. Instead, it covers other parties involved in an accident with you. If an accident is deemed to be your fault, your insurers will pay out to them but you won't get anything (unless it's from the third party's insurers). Quite simply, your policy covers damage and personal injury to third parties (i.e. not you (first party) or your insurers (second party)).

    Third Party, Fire and Theft insurance does exactly what it says on the tin. It covers you against third party liability, but also covers your vehicle against fire and theft. Fire on bike is not a common problem. Other than arson, you're probably going to be around to do something about it quickly should your bike burst into flames.
    Bike theft is much more of a problem and always happens when you're not around, which makes TPFT cover a worthwhile thing to have. It also makes it much more expensive too. The cost of cover is proportional to the value and nickability of your bike. For some reason age seems to come into it as well.

    Comprehensive cover is, well...comprehensive. It covers everything third party and TPFT policies cover, but also extends to cover any damage you might cause by dropping the bike or to clothing. It also means you're covered if you return to find some cretin has knocked your bike over in the car park and drives off. It's really a "no worries" policy, but because of the scope it covers there is more chance of it having to pay out on a claim. And so it's more expensive.
    Last edited by Metalfyre; 24-12-2014 at 02:19 AM. Reason: Updated Insurance Explanation
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    Buying the right helmet

    Never is it more important to try wearing something than when purchasing a helmet. Different brands suit different heads, and while one rider may prefer a Shoei, another might only be comfortable in a Shark. A lid should be tight - they do give a little - but not to the point of discomfort, so when trying one on for the first time don't just attempt to shove it on - pull apart the opening whilst holding the strap and the helmet should pop onto your head. Give it a juggle to get comfy and try holding it still whilst moving your head around inside - if you can it's too big. If all feels good have a go with the chin strap. Many people prefer the convenience of a seat-belt type fasterner, while others would argue that a double-D ring system can be more secure. Finally buy the one that you can afford, and feel most comfortable in. Remember that a helmet must have the PSB approval to be legal in this country.
    Last edited by Kev's; 04-03-2011 at 11:17 AM.
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    Riding Gear

    It's the last thing many people budget for, but decent riding kit is one of the most important things you should buy. You might see people riding in jeans, and old pair of workman's boots and a wax jacket, and you'd be right in thinking that they've saved a fair bit of moeny on that flashy, costly kit you saw when you bought your bike.
    But before you consider what you could save, try putting a price on your health - the squeamish may want to look away now... Jeans might be fairly tough for knocking around in, but remember that they're only made of cotton, and at 30mph bare skin can abrade at a depth of up to an inch per second. The same goes for wax jackets - great at keeping the rain off, but not so good at standing up to asphalt. Workman's shoes? A bike will often fall on one of your legs in a crash, which is why quality bike boots have reinforced soles to prevent your foot from being crushed. They also don't contain steel toe-caps, which will cut off your little piggies should the boots fold. But hey, biking's supposed to be fun, not a morbid affair, which is why, with a little know how you can get yourself into some top gear without busting your budget. Catch the sales, go to bike shows and read ride magazines to get the best deal.
    Last edited by Kev's; 04-03-2011 at 11:21 AM.
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    Looking After Your No.1

    Ok, so you've bought a bike and whether it's new or second hand, properly maintaining your machine is a must. Why? Safety is the primary concern. A badly maintained bike can be a potentially dangerous weapon. Modern bikes are capable of seriously high speeds and keeping an eye on your bike's well-being will not only give you a deeper understanding of how your motorcycle works but can also keep you safe on the road.
    Regular weekly maintainance will also benefit you when you sell your bike; buyers prefer a machine that's been properly looked after.
    This article is a guide, not a gospel. If you have any doubt regarding your bike, or your ability to carry out any work, remember the golden rule - consult your friendly motodiam..

    Tires
    Check your tyre's tread visually or using a depth gauge, which are readily available at motoring accessory shops. It may have plenty of tread left at the edges but what's the main part of the tyre like? Check the tyre (including sidewalls) for lumps, cuts, nails or glass. Any damaged tyre should be replaced immediately - it's not worth the risk.
    Check the pressures with a good quality gauge, not a garage forecourt job - which are hopelessly inaccurate. This should be done when the tyres are cold. Look in the owner's manual to find the correct tyre pressures and set them up to the specified pressure for solo or two-up riding as required.

    Suspension
    Sit on the bike and bounce up and down on the suspension. Then, check for any oil weeping from the fork seals. This is the point where the shiny part of the fork leg enters the stanchion, or lower end of the unit. If they're leaking, they need changing. It's not a simple job; so if you're not confident enough to take it on, take the bike to your motodiam.

    Brakes
    Check the fluid level on your bike's front and rear brake reservoirs. The fluid should be between the minimum and maximum level marked on the reservoir. Fluids are rated by DOT numbers - 3 is the lowest and 6 is highest. DOT4 is the industry standard. It's nasty stuff that'll eat through your paintwork, never mind your skin. So protect paint from spills with a cloth, and protect yourself by wearing rubber gloves and wash thoroughly if it gets on your skin.
    Next, inspect the brake pads for wear. Use a torch, as it'll help you see into the caliper. Look for how much actual material is left on the pad - there should be a visible wear limit groove in the centre.
    The manufacturer's recommendation is no less than 1mm left on the pad itself but don't take chances. Safety rules, OK? If grinding or metallic scraping noises are coming from the disc while braking, then it's definately time for an inspection. Leaving worn out pads in for too long is false economy - you risk damanging the discs themselves and discs aren't cheap.

    Engine Oil
    The lifeblood of any engine. It's vital that you check your oil on a regular basis, preferably everytime you use your bike. Some bikes use a dipstick, others a sight glass. The oil should be checked when the engine's cold and the bike's totally upright. Do this by standing the machine on firm and level ground. If it needs topping up, use the recommended oil and only add small amounts at a time to prevent overfilling.

    Drive Chain
    A poorly adjusted chain is noisy and inefficient - it can be dangerous if it's really slack or tight - but fortunately it's easy to sort out. Put the bike on the centre stand if you have one, or use a paddock stand if you can get one. Check the chain's tension by measuring the amount of travel at the midway point between front and rear sprocket. Take this measurement at varying points on the chain by turning the rear wheel a few inches at a time. There should be, on average, 30-50mm of freeplay at the tightest point - your owner's manual will give the exact specification.
    If there's too much or too little slack, you need to adjust it. Once you've adjusted the chain, apply some chain lube. The best way to do this is to get the bike on its centre stand (if it doesn't have one, get a mate to balance the bike on the sidestand and keep the rear wheel clear of the floor).
    Then spin the wheel forwards and spray the lube into where the chain and sprocket meets at the bottom, so the lube gets carried round onto the sprocket. It's best to do this at least a couple of hours before you ride - this gives the solvent time to evaporate and stops the lube getting flung all over your back wheel.

    Cables
    Throttle and clutch cables should be tested for smooth operation. The throttle in particular should snap back to the shut position, without sticking, when it's released. If they don't operate smoothly, then oil or replace them. Simple cable oiling tools are cheap and easy to use, although sometimes a bit messy, and will extend the life of your cables as well as making your bike nicer to ride.

    Cooling System
    For a water cooled bike, when the engine's cold, you need to check that the coolant level in the radiator expansion tank is between the minimum and maximum marks. The tank can be hidden in varios places, so check the manual if you're struggling to find it. If it needs topping up, mix the recommended amount of water and coolant (varies from brand to brand), and fill to the maximum level.

    Battery
    It's fairly simple to remove most batteries for inspection and doing so will prevent your object of desire goin gup in flames from a rogue spark. Disconnect the earth(negative) terminal first and reconnect it last. Exdamine the acid level indicated on the side of the battery. Top it up with distilled water if needed (never with tap water) and then charge it up with a bike-specific charger (many car chargers supply too much current for bike batteries).When charging, it&'s wise to losen the filler plugs to allow expanding gas to escape safely. Don't attempt to top up jelly filled or sealed batteries. When reinstalling the battery, ensure the connections are on the right way and are tight, and don't forget to reconnect the breather pipe.

    Cleaning Your Bike
    If you do it regularly, washing your bike shouldn't take too long and it'll give you the chance to spot anything amiss with your machine. Use a good quality wax shampoo in plenty of hot water. A dish brush is good for hard to get areas and a sponge is ideal for washing down bodywork. Once you've given the bike a good going over, rinse with plenty of fresh water and see if you've missed any bits.
    Avoid using pressure washers too close to the bike as they can blast essential grease and oils from bearings and cables - a strong one can even strip stickers from bodywork; A liberal coat of protective spray, such as Scottoil FS365 will help sustain your bike's finish. It's slippery, so ensure you don't spray it anywhere near the brakes, discs, footrests or hand controls.

    In General
    Check every nut and bolt you can see and get to make sure they're properly tight. Then there's just one more thing to do before you ride - test every bulb on the bike. Sidelight, low beam, high beam, left and right indicators, stop light (by testing both front and rear brakes individually) and rear light. It's worth checking all your lights work every time you ride your bike. It may sound like overkill but a dark bulb is all the excuse a bored copper needs to pull you over and spoil your day.
    Last edited by Kev's; 04-03-2011 at 11:27 AM.
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  10. #10
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    Gettin Accquainted

    Getting to know your bike is perhaps one of the most essential things a new rider should grasp. Sometimes, this knowledge makes the difference on whether you kiss the tarmac or escape within a whisker's breadth. For instance, knowing how maneouverable your machine can be with a little counter-steering, you might have chosen to swerve narrowly past the lane-changing cabbie instead of smacking into his tailend. Or knowing that your bike could fit into that little gap between traffic, you could've filtered inbetween the lanes instead of jamming your brakes and locking your wheels when the lorry in front suddenly came to a stop.

    Ride your bike around your estate before going any further. Get used to the power delivery, where the peak powerband is, how your throttle, brake or clutch input affects the bike's performance, direction. Get a feel as to how your bike responds when you shift your weight just so from your right butt cheek to your left. Experiment. Try out stuff. It's far easier on both your machine and your body if you were to foul up travelling at 30km/h around your estate, mentally prepared for anything since you are experimenting, rather than botching up at 90km/h along the expressways with traffic on either side of you.

    Very often, you'd be surprised that what limits the bike's performance is not the bike's design in ergonomics or geometry, but the rider's mindset. Once you get used to your bike's characteristics, you' be in a better position to manupulate the bike to your best advantage, flaunting the advantages and tempering the flaws.

    And finally, when you do take to the roads, try to do so with an experienced rider, at the very least, for a month or so. You'll pick up handy tricks and tips watching your friend weave his way through traffic, setting his lines in corners and such.
    Last edited by Metalfyre; 23-08-2007 at 01:03 AM.
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    Frequently Asked Question

    Q: I'm currently riding a 2B bike, and am taking my class 2A license. Is it more advisable to stick with my 2B bike and jump straight to a class 2 bike when I get my class 2? Or should I upgrade to a 2A bike first.

    A: This is very much up to you. I know the itchy feelings surface the moment you sign up for your class 2A lessons. A few points to consider:

    - Jumping straight to a class 2 bike makes financial sense; you do not suffer depreciation on a 2A bike you'll only ride for a year.

    - Some class 2 bikes have lower maintenance costs than class 2A bikes; my R6 only requires 3 bottles of EO vs 4 bottles for a Super 4.

    - Typical 4-stroke 2B horsepower: 10-15bhps. Class 2A horsepower cap: 58bhps. Typical 600cc supersport: 110bhps. Typical 1000cc superbike: 170bhps.
    - Typical 4-stroke 2B bike weight: 120kg. Typical class 2A weight: 170kg. Typical 600cc weight: 160kg. Typical 1000cc weight: 170kg.

    Those are HUGE differences; the horsepower is doubled going up a mere 200ccs from a Super 4 to a modern supersport bike. 1000cc bikes have close to 1:1 power-weight ratio. These are ballpark figures, but you get the idea.

    Therefore, it is up to you to decide if you think you can handle a >10x increase in horsepower by jumping from a 2B to a class 2 bike. IMO, the more gradual increase makes more sense to most riders' skill-set progression; a lot of people are overwhelmed by the power increase and ride like pussies on their big bikes, when they would have learnt a lot more daring to try things out on a more manageable 400cc machine in between. It's your choice though.

    Q: Any tips on how to clear the 2B TP test?

    A: Plenty of sleep, sufficient hydration are the best preparations you can have. Yeah, it's something you'd hear your SAF PTI say, but it's true here as well. Remain calm, focus your eyelines; remember that this isn't something you haven't done before. You have done it and passed it and are now qualified to take the test because you have done it before. One more thing that could help would be booking Self Practice sessions immediately before the TP test. Testers check for safety and competency. If you can show these qualities, you will pass.

    Q: How do i go about checking the insurance price for myself, for the different types of bikes and different age & experience?

    A: Your best bet is checking with different bike shops and asking them to break down the quotation for you. Most bike shops are tied to various insurers and will have an up-to-date easy reference chart for charges based on factors such as riding experience and age, across many insurance companies. The more bike shops you can check with, the more accurate the picture will become. This will also help you zero in on insurers who are cheaper, and it will be a simple task to ring them up directly to find out if you can save a few bucks by walking in to purchase directly from them.

    It is impossible to recommend an insurance company simply because my circumstances differ from yours. For example, AXA currently offers the lowest rates, but if you are below 20 they will not accept you.

    Q: Is insurance transferable?

    A: No. Insurance policies are made out to the insured's name(s). Premiums are calculated individually. This is because the owner will have different risk/liability levels compared to the buyer. If you purchase a bike from a private owner, he will have to cancel his insurance policy and you will have to purchase one for yourself. NCDs are non-transferable between parties. If you sell a bike and cancel your insurance, you will have the balance premium refunded.

    Q: What's the difference between Super 4 Spec 1, 2 and 3?

    A: The difference in series are relatively small. PB1, Versions R and S do not come with VTEC, Spec 1-3 do. Between Spec 2 and 3, there are 15 listed changes...of which 3 involve the tail lights. If you're the DIY type of person, be aware that Spec 3 has more electronics. The RPM for setting off the VTEC differs slightly in all 3 Spec versions also. However, if you're the type who just rides whatever speed he wants without thinking of fuel savings and simply sends his bike to the workshop, there shouldn't be any significant difference other than the bike's age that would make you decide on one version over another.

    Q: What bike do you recommend for new 2B riders? Is a Vespa/R125/Kips good for transport?

    A: Very hard to answer this generically. It depends on what you want out of your bike. Different people have different ideas when it comes to 'just having a bike for transport'. Personally, I detest Vespas...small wheels = no performance; the only reason I can think of people wanting one is..it's cute. But that's just me having a preference for performance over looks. If I tell you that a Pulsar 150 is the best, and you get it but don't really like it (looks-wise etc), you will end up wanting to get rid of it prematurely, defeating the purpose of such recommendations. What I do advice is trying out as many different models as possible. Whatever you choose, it should fit you and you should like it inside out.
    Last edited by Metalfyre; 31-08-2015 at 01:47 AM.
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  12. #12
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    Anyone knows wat's the difference between these 2 final drives?

    1) O ring seal chain

    2) enclosed shaft drive

    Thanks..
    Last edited by Kev's; 04-03-2011 at 11:28 AM.
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    Originally posted by Technician III@January 22, 2007 05:04 pm
    Anyone knows wat's the difference between these 2 final drives?

    1) O ring seal chain

    2) enclosed shaft drive

    Thanks..
    Difference is very obvious,

    one is chain transmission, common on most bikes

    one is shaft transmission which same as used on cars, normally only very big cc bike use this cos very heavy
    Last edited by Kev's; 04-03-2011 at 11:28 AM.

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    Shaft driven is shaft driven and chain driven is chain driven?

    I think shafts are generally more durable and they do not have chain-lengthening problems, I don't remember that you have to replace them also unless for a major wear and tear. So that you do not have to periodically adjust the wheel on the swingarm. Shaft like the chain has to be lubricated also, but not so often.

    But chain driven bikes are easier to make and they're lighter.

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    Adding on , Shaft driven bike are being lubricated by shaft oil which are required to replace periodically. The shaft itself usually have a very long lifespan, which may even outrun the bike lifespan itself.


    However shaft driven bikes, the powerloss through the final transmission are much more higher than chain driven bike. Thus majority of the superbikes are chain driven.

    Shaft driven bike are generally good for tourers or minority road bike, like FJR/ST/Deuville/Dragstar. Maintainence free compared to chain-driven bike with the exception of changing the shaft oil periodically. No worry of sagging/rusty/dirty chain.
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    Hmm.. How to c the difference between a shaft driven bike and a chain driven bike?

    or say in a simplier way.. those bike which r shaft driven won't have the chain rite?

    Pai seh everyone.. Cuz I quite curious bout this shaft and chain final drive thing.. Nv seen a shaft driven bike b4..
    Last edited by Kev's; 04-03-2011 at 11:28 AM.
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    u left out belt drive. belt drive is common on harleys. u see a belt than a chain.
    shaft drive identify by looking at the rear wheel lor. if u see no sprocket(gear) but a long long thing,then its shaft driven lor..just llok at most BMW bikes,most is shaft driven. BMW R1200GS is shaft driven.
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    A Typical Shaft Driven Bike. Enclosed.


    Chain Driven bike, which is very common.



    Belt Driven . Can be found in scooters and HDs


    You have seen a shaft driven bike before, just that you may not pay so much attention to it.


    The Honda ST1100/1300 , Yamaha FJR , BMW GS/RT/R Series , Yamaha Dragstar , Honda Goldwing and much more are shaft driven.
    Last edited by Kev's; 04-03-2011 at 01:24 PM.
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    Oh ic.. Thanks veri much for ur infomation given.. It has cleared my doubts..
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    Default Class 2A Bike Reviews

    *Again, based purely on my personal opinions.
    **Broken up into categories for your easy purview.

    Sportbikes

    Honda CBR400RR Hurricane [400cc inline 4]

    Pros: No power cut, so one of the highest top ends available in this class of inline 4s. Good ergonomics for flipping corners.
    Cons: Rare, spares may be a problem unless you source at scrapyards. Problematic bike which will likely increase hours spent in the motordiam as critical parts like the rectifier are very prone to giving up on you. Due to it's age, 99.999999% kana rape b4 and the engine may be about to fall out.

    Honda CBR400RRR Fireblade [400cc inline 4]

    Pros: Being the most recent 2A inline 4 sportsbike, it tends to be far more reliable than any other sportbike in its class. Good ergonomics for flipping corners. With a few performance mods, can potentially be the fastest in its class.
    Cons: Again, being rather old, there will be parts that inevitably fail due to wear and tear. Other than that, I've no complaints about this bike.

    Honda VFR 400 [400cc V4] (Never ridden b4)

    Pros: It's rare. You may want to collect it.
    Cons: An old v4 that no longer holds the reputation of being reliable.

    Honda RVF NC 35 [400cc V4]

    Pros: The most recent 2A sportsbike. Short wheelbase for flipping fast corners. Stands for Run Very Fast.
    Cons: More expensive to maintain as it is a replica. Parts like spark plugs are specific to this bike only, so will be a hassle to find. Cramped riding posture. Also stands for Revoke Very Fast.

    Honda PGM3/4 250 [250cc v-twin]

    Pros: Will give some class 2 bikes a good run for their money on the track (PG only). Being a 2 stroker means you slice through corners faster than the 400cc 4 strokers, if you have the know-how.
    Cons: Being a 2-stoker, you'll have to mind the 2T. More prone to piston jams, smelly, smokey exhaust emissions...the basic trouble you get with a 2-stroker. Also very easy to sabo.

    Yamaha FZR400 [400cc inline 4]

    Pros: One rare, head turning babe of a bike.
    Cons: You probably won't even find one for sale. And if you do, you'll be hard pressed to find spares.

    Yamaha TZR 250 [250cc v-twin] (Never ridden b4)

    Pros: One rare,funky bike. I hear it's pretty quick. Underseat exhausts!
    Cons: You probably won't even find one for sale. And if you do, you'll be hard pressed to find spares. The Regular 2-stroker problems as well.

    Kawasaki ZXR400R [400cc inline 4]

    Pros: Pretty quick for its class, on straights and in corners. Plenty of spares lying around to be found as there are many of this kind still in service in Malaysia.
    Cons: From what I hear, you'll probably need the spares as it has the reputation of being a problematic bike, same old song of short-lived rectifiers and such. If you must have one, look for the L9. Expensive to insure. Also, Steven Lim owns one.

    Suzuki GSX400R [400cc inline 4]

    Pros: Fast, with a very nice and loud original exhaust note. Inverted forks!
    Cons: Due to its age, you'll probably have to spend as much as you paid for the bike to get it into the kind of riding condition where you won't have to visit the motordiam until your next oil change.

    Suzuki RGV250 Pepsi/Beta/Gamma [250cc v-twin]

    Pros: Fast track (PG only) machine. Very, very flickable. And rare. Has inverted forks too!
    Cons: Spares will be a problem, as well as its age, since many have been raped before..aside from the Gamma (which I've only seem one of in SG). 2 stroke bike that comes with the regular issues.

    Aprillia RS250 [250cc v-twin]

    Pros: One of the quickest track(PG only) machines. Light and flickable.
    Cons: The regular 2-stroke issues aside, a real biatch to maintain. Get only if you just struck toto or found a sugar mummy.

    All Rounders

    Kawasaki KLE400 [400cc inline twin] (never ridden b4)

    Pros: It looks damn funky. And looks like it'll throw a decent fist if you take it offroad.
    Cons: Spares will be hard to find. Hard to sell when you wanna get rid of it. Expensive to insure.



    Cruisers

    Honda Steed 400 [400cc v-twin]

    Pros: Very torquey. The most retro 2A cruiser you'll find.
    Cons: Also happens to be the oldest cruiser around that I know of. Effort and $$ required to maintain/restore it. Typical cruiser handling in corners.

    Honda Shadow 400 [400cc v-twin]

    Pros: Looks big and bling. Terribly sturdy down straight roads.
    Cons: Heavy for its class. Is slower than some class 2B bikes.

    Yamaha Virago 250 [250cc v-twin] (never ridden b4)

    Pros: First ever v-twin cruiser by Yamaha. Comfy n relatively lightweight. More nimble than it's counterparts.
    Cons: Relatively underpowered.

    *I'm not familiar with other 2A cruisers like the Daystar etc...so will leave them out. If anyone feels so inclined, kindly update on this as well)
    Last edited by Kev's; 04-03-2011 at 11:35 AM.
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    Streetbikes

    Honda CB400 Super 4/Bol'dor [400cc inline 4]

    Pros: The daddy of 2A bikes. Spares are in abundance, making this the most moddable bike in its class. Comfortable enough, decent speeds achievable, and the version S has the best FC in it's class.
    Cons: Very common. The Vtec series forces you to travel at roughly 80km/h to maintain good fuel efficiency. Rear suspension is very nickable. Limited potential. Not called the 'domesticator' for nothing.

    Honda Hornet 250 [250cc inline 4]

    Pros: Fantastic midrange torque, 180 rear tyres allow you to kup kup kup corner all the way! Nice high mount exhaust.
    Cons: 16 inch front rims causes the bike to dive into corners...and tyres will be hard to find for the front. Becareful you're not getting one of the learning center's bikes.

    Honda Nighthawk 250 [250cc single cylinder]

    Pros: Retro RXZ style. Fantastic fuel economy. Your dad will like it. Bulletproof A to B ride.
    Cons: Old bike that will need some money and effort if you get one to refurbish it. Not the quickest in its class.

    Yamaha XJR 400 [400cc inline 4] (never ridden b4)

    Pros: Same all round comfort, speed and FC as super 4...i think.
    Cons: Rare bike that may have problems with spares.

    Yamaha FZ 400 Fazer [400cc inline 4] (never ridden b4)

    Pros: Should be more fun to ride than the S4 and its direct competitors. Funky twin headlights.
    Cons: Rare bike. Don't think you'll find one for sale.

    Suzuki GSR400 [400cc inline 4] (never ridden b4)

    Pros: The most recent 2A bike. Likely to be the most reliable as a result. Sleek, modern looks.
    Cons: I dunno man...anyone riding a GSR care to update?

    Suzuki SV400s [400cc v-twin]

    Pros: Rare eyeturner. Easy V-twin handling. Cheaper to maintain due to its engine setup. Good FC overall.
    Cons: Spares will be hard to find. Not the easiest bike to take corners with due to the wheelbase and the single front disc brake system.

    Suzuki GN250 [250cc single cylinder]

    Pros: Retro RXZ style. Fantastic fuel economy. Your dad will like it too. Bulletproof A to B ride.
    Cons: Old bike that will need some money and effort if you get one to refurbish it. Not the quickest in its class.

    Ducati Monster M400 [400cc v-twin]

    Pros: Nice exhaust note. A real head turning machine. Will make a mechanic out of you.
    Cons: Slow for its cc. Expensive to maintain.

    Motards/Scrams

    Suzuki DRZ 400 SM [400cc single cylinder]

    Pros: Nifty pickup, good handling and as recent as the GSR. Squeezing through traffic is easy on this. Nice to stunt around on. Has the best feel in this category.
    Cons: You'll be really sad if you go on touring trips, watching your friends disappear into the distance.

    Yamaha WR 400 [400cc single cylinder]

    Pros: Really quick pick up and good handling. Squeezing through tight traffic is a breeze. Nice to stunt around on.
    Cons: You wouldn't want to go on long trips with this. Vibrations go over the roof, making maintaining high speeds a real chore.

    Honda XR 4 [400cc single cylinder]

    Pros: Fast pickup and pretty quick through corners. Squeezing is, again, a breeze. Nice stunt bike. Needs mods to realise its full potential though.
    Cons: Long trips will again be a pain in the arse..literally. But that's what scrams are all about. Fast pickups, lousy top ends. Again, a high level of vibration will be experienced when you push the bike faster...but if you have a female pillion you wanna lay, I suppose this can be considered one of the pros...?

    *Again, not familiar with the KTM. Will someone nice help out here?
    **Also, I'm not terribly familiar with scramblers...so every scram except the DRZ seemed the same to me when I rode it. Any mistakes or if you feel something should be added on, just gimme a shout.
    *** I'm leaving scooters out totally as I ain't familiar enough with them to start shooting off tips here. So for bikes like the Yamaha Majesty 250, Honda Silverwing etc, you'll get better advice in the scooter forum. Friendly folk they have there, so I heard.
    **** Overall any mistakes or things you feel I left out, again let me know ya? Doing this at 4am in the morning is zzz...and even though I took 1 hour to compile and proof read the list, there may still be mistakes.

    That's it. All the 2A bikes I'm aware that exist within Singapore that I'm familiar enough with to drop tips on.

    Hope it helps.

    Ride safe.
    Last edited by Kev's; 04-03-2011 at 03:01 PM.
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    For class 2 bikes, there are simply too much to cover.
    However, perharps some of the commons one.

    Let me add on some for 2A Category.

    All Rounder.

    Honda Transalp 400




    Similar to KLE400, 400cc enduro all adventure bike are basicly rare .
    Pros: For translap, It comes from the studdy manufacture. HONDA, reliablilty wise, needless to say. A bike you can tour comfortable with, on multi terrain.
    Cons: Same for all old bikes which already out of production a decade or more ago.. spare parts are hard to come by. Especially electronics parts for this model.




    Honda VTR 250 (Streetbike - V Twin Engine)



    Wow, a ducati-monster replicas from HONDA minus off an exhaust(single sided)
    From far, it look similar to a monster with its main frame chasis and engine.
    Also a VTwin Engine but in 250cc form, Dont expect too much for power wise.
    Main factor to buy this bike, for its unique factor and its head turning factor on street.



    Honda Silverwing 400



    Still ongoing production currently. A very sleek looking and comfortable maxi scooter you can own in the 400cc category.

    Pros: BIG, Comfortable, Powerwise very predictable yet acceptable. Very huge compartment underseat.
    Cons: Fuel consumption for Swinger 400 is slightly high for its class. Generally maintainance for this 400 machine are similar as the CB400s , but minus off dropping the bikes or crashing it. The fairings can be quite a headache. Dry weight for this bike is heavy.


    Yamaha Majesty 250



    A middle weight scooters between 2A-2B . Low CG. 2 Version MK1 and MK2.
    MK1 model using drum brake for rear. While Mk2 the newer one using disc brake for both.

    Pros: Very light weight, and easy to handle scooters available in the market. Comfortable with its floorboard area and as well as huge compartment underseat as well. Best part is, It is one of the most fuel economy scooter in SGP market.
    Cons: No much fancy mods available in singapore althou there are some exist in jap (They are crazy!!) . Very fun bike, but since its lightweighted. might experience some wobble when going on high speed.


    Suzuki Impulse 400



    Another Streetfighter bike from suzuki

    pros: Performance similar to typical inline 4 engine. Less prone to theft. Decent FC
    cons: Market not very big in singapore, thus spares can be quite a headache for this bike also.

    Suzuki Bandit 400



    Pros: Performance similar to typical inline 4 engine. Less prone to theft. Decent FC
    Cons: Another old bike, thus spares can be quite a headache for this bike also.
    Last edited by Kev's; 04-03-2011 at 01:27 PM.
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    Class 2 Bike


    There are way too many bikes to list them one by one here.
    just casual typing i can list you down these as below...

    Cruiser


    Harley Davidsons (HDs alone have plenty of models)
    Honda VTX 1300/1800
    Honda Shadow 750/1100
    Yamaha Dragstar 1100
    Suzuki Boulevard
    Kawasaki Vulcan 500/900/1600/2000
    Triumph Rocket III 2300
    Magna 750
    VMax 1200
    Yamaha MT01 1700

    Adventure


    Honda Varadero 1000
    Suzuki Vstrom 1000/650
    Yamaha TDM 900/850
    BMW GS Adventure 1150/1200




    Sports

    Too many to list!

    For the commons one locally

    Yamaha YZF R1 (1000cc) / YZF R6 (600cc)
    Honda CBR 1000 RR / 600RR
    Suzuki GSX 1000 / 600 / 750
    Suzuki GSX 1300 Hayabusa
    Kawasaki ZZR1400 / ZX10 (1000cc) /ZX636 (636cc)
    Ducati 748/749/916/996/998/999/1098
    Triumph Daytona 675
    MV Agusta F4 Series
    Honda VTR 10000
    Suzuki TL1000R
    Honda CBR 900/919/929/954
    Honda CBR1100xx BlackBird
    Aprillia RSV 1000
    Honda VFR800





    Scooters


    Gilera Nexus 500
    Silverwing 600
    TMax 500
    X9 500
    Burgman 650




    Full Tourer

    Honda ST1100/STX
    Honda NT650/700
    Yamaha FJR 1300
    Honda Goldwing 1300/1500/1800
    Kawasaki Concourse 1400
    Kawasaki ZX1100
    Triumph Sprint


    Street Fighter


    Yamaha Fazer 1000/600
    Honda Hornet 600/900
    Honda CB750/1000/1300
    Kawasaki ER6/Z750/Z1000
    Suzuki SV650/1000
    Suzuki GSR 600
    Ducati Monster 600/750/900
    Ducati Multistrada 1000
    Triumph Speedtriple 1050
    MV Agusta Brutale 910
    Honda X11
    BMW Roadster Series



    might have miss out alot more that can be found locally..
    just casual posting.
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  25. #25
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    Thanks arjen. Basically, you folk can simply refer up to the bike categories to see what the class 2 bikes in various categories are capable of, roughly. For individual bike quirks you'll just have to ask individually and we'll see what we can do to answer. There are, as mentioned, simply too many class 2 bikes to list out. If I took over an hour to compile the >20 2A bikes...I think a full, comprehensive class 2 list will take a week.

    Added the Hornet 250.
    Last edited by Metalfyre; 23-08-2007 at 12:51 AM.
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    One of the best ways to stay savvy with the latest class 2 bikes is by getting bike magazines and reading them. Personally, I'd recommend UK's Fastbikes, available at Kino and the Thambi Magazine shop at Holland V.

    Added Virago 250.
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    Some Informative Facts for CARB Bike Vs EFI Bike


    Carburetors or EFI?

    Discussion has been circulating at that local hang-out between car enthusiasts over what type of fuel delivery is better. I am here to offer my opinion along with facts. I will admit that I am a little bias toward EFI, but will offer my 2.5 years of training and 5 years of experience concerning this matter.

    Carburetors have been around for over a century. This is a device that, simply put, delivers the amount of fuel an engine needs in relation to the amount of air that is pushed through it by atmospheric pressure. Carburetors work on a pressure-drop principle in which I will not go into great detail other than when tuned properly for atmospheric and weather conditions, carburetors work very well.

    There are many types of Electronic Fuel Injection on the market today. I will touch base on 3 major types known as: Throttle Body Injection, Port Fuel Injection, and Direct Fuel Injection. All of these systems are controlled by very similar computer systems and related sensors.

    Throttle Body Injection is the most simple type of EFI and the closest to carburetion in operation. Fuel is injected above the throttle blades by one or more fuel injector nozzles. Both fuel and air are carried throughout the entire intake tract.

    Port Fuel Injection is the most widely utilized form of injection today. Fuel is injected at each intake port, usually at the cylinder head and intake manifold. Only air travels through the intake tract until it reaches the point in which fuel is injected. This method allows a wide variety of intake system designs to be explored and utilized depending on application, thus making super- and turbo-charging extremely feasible.

    Direct Fuel Injection is a new technology. This system utilizes injectors similar to diesel engines in which fuel is injected directly into the cylinder. Obviously cost is high due the custom cylinder head configuration and high-temp injector required. Not much is known about this system relating to performance usage be the foundation has been laid for previously untold amounts of attainable power potential.

    CARBS vs. EFI

    The real question: Which is better? Well, this depends on a lot of factors. For one, what do you do with, and how do you drive your car? Obviously, if you race a vehicle professionally in which rules are involved that restrict the type of fuel delivery that can be used, you have little choice.

    The age old question has always been disputed: Which makes more power? Well, this too is a good question. Carb enthusiasts argue that carbs make more power over port injection because the fuel helps "cool" the intake manifold. If this were true, what about Throttle Body Injection? I have seen little evidence to prove that carbs out-perform port efi on identical engines and vice-versa in controlled conditions.

    Again, your choice depends on what you plan to do with your vehicle. In my opinion, carbs work great in ideal weather conditions and areas of the country which see little climate changes. Unfortunately, there are rarely 'ideal' conditions present. This leaves you to change jets and tune your carburetor to the changing weather conditions as the day goes on. On the other hand, EFI systems automatically compensate for changing conditions.

    What about cost? Well, here again, it depends on what you want to do with your vehicle. If you don't mind drivability problems when the engine is cold or the humidity is high then carbs are for you. Simply put, no carburetor can do what a feedback efi system can do compared by cost. I have never seen a carb that you didn't have to tune to offset changing conditions. These changes require carb disassembly in most cases. EFI can compensate for most any change in weather conditions. Those that cannot be automatically compensated for by the ECM can be easily reprogrammed by PC or Laptop computer in just minutes without getting your hands dirty.

    But carbs only cost $200 compared to $1000 for EFI system and programming hardware/software. Where are the savings? Well, $200 is just the initial cost of the average carb, new. Later, jet kits, gaskets, various diaphrams, and springs are required to maintain and tune carbs. Most efi systems have a highway mode operation in which fuel can be saved during periods of cruising that don't effect any other driving period. Personally, I have experienced a 4+mpg gain in fuel mileage utilizing such "built-in" features of GM EFI systems. Cost savings are self-explanitory, not to mention the time you save by simply sitting at a computer to tune your car instead of disassembling a carb.

    What kind of features does EFI offer over carbs?
    Well, simply put: a carburetor just sits there. A typical GM EFI computer system can be programmed in the following areas:


    Fuel Delivery based on MAP (Manifold Pressure), TP (Throttle Position), RPM, ECT (coolant temp)


    Spark Advance based on MAP, TP, RPM, ECT


    TCC Lockup characteristics based on TP, VSS (Vehicle Speed)


    Highway Mode Air/Fuel Ratio based on MAP, TP, VSS, Time


    Open Loop A/F Ratio and Power Enrichment Changes


    Closed Loop parameters


    Manifold Air Temp influence on timing and A/F ratio


    Idle Speed based on ECT


    Transmission Shift firmness and Shift Points (electronic automatics)


    Cooling Fan(s) Operation besed on ECT, VSS


    Trouble Code Parameters

    and Much, Much More....



    The Facts:

    Carbs EFI

    Winter Drivability: Poor Excellent

    Summer Drivebility: Excellent Excellent

    Skill Level Required: Average Advanced

    Long-term cost: High Manageable

    Performance: Good Better

    Turbo-compatible: Poor Excellent

    Supercharger-compatible: Depends Excellent

    N2O-compatible: Good Good

    Emissions Friendly: Poor Excellent

    "Wow" Factor: Fair Excellent

    Reliability: Good Excellent

    Fuel Distribution: Fair Excellent (Port and Direct)

    Intake Configurations: Limited Unlimited (Port and Direct)

    Pros: 6 12

    Cons: 8 2
    Last edited by arjen; 11-09-2007 at 02:43 AM.
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  28. #28
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    Lol so which 2B bike have EFI?

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    Eg: Honda WAVE I , SYM Joyride 180 EFI
    Quite Limited.
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    Quote Originally Posted by arjen View Post
    Eg: Honda WAVE I , SYM Joyride 180 EFI
    Quite Limited.
    den would wave be a headache to maintain???since its not a carb operated???
    Go as far as you can see; when you get there, you'll be able to see farther.
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    Not exactly. An EFI system is not much more expensive to service than a carb. The main difference is the simplicity between the two; I know how to open up a carb and clean it, put it together, do a rough tune and having working. An EFI system is more complicated...but not by much in single cylinder bikes like the Wave. The difference in maintainence costs whenever you do your clearances (say every 1/2 year) is often not more than ten dollars for these bikes.
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    Default Newbie guide to Sprocket and Chain.

    Dummies for Sprocket and Chain

    For most current motorcycles, the power from the engine and transmission is delivered to the rear wheel via a drive chain (majority), driveshafts or belts.

    For users of chains and sprockets, the tooth count on the front and rear sprockets create a specific final drive ratio.

    This ratio can easily be altered by changing the sprockets with replacements that have a different tooth count.

    Why might you want to do this?

    Because it allows you to trade some effective top-end HP for added effective low-end torque, to give you faster acceleration (at the sacrifice of absolute top-end speed).

    It also permits you to calculate a specific RPM you want the engine to be turning at your preferred cruising speed. For example, if your motorcycle currently runs 5200 RPM at 100 km/h, by altering the tooth counts, you could push that RPM number up (to put it further into the powerband for better roll-on performance) or down (to reduce vibration and improve fuel mileage/tank range if you do lots of highway driving).
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    Type of Chain

    Just as modern chains come in a variety of widths, sprockets come in matched widths for use with specific chains.

    If you use a #530 chain, use sprockets designed to work with a #530 chain.

    It is differentiate by a number of simple criteria: width, length, and roller-support lubrication design.
    Standard widths are 520 and 530.
    Standard lengths are counted by the number of links in the chain -- 110/112/114/116/118/120 are standard link counts, and you can obtain chains up to 140 links from most manufacturers.

    Efficient SPROCKET RATIO

    There are only two basic equations for sprocket math:
    (1)calculating the sprocket drive ratio.
    (2)calculating the percentage change in sprocket ratios.


    Calculating the sprocket drive ratio:


    (Rear tooth count) / (front tooth count) = drive ratio

    Example 1:
    Bike ships stock with 47 tooth rear sprocket, 15 tooth front sprocket.
    47 / 15 = 3.13333
    So 3.13333 is the stock sprocket ratio.

    Example 2:
    You buy a 50 tooth rear sprocket and a 15 tooth front sprocket for the above bike.
    50 / 15 = 3.33333
    So 3.33333 is the new sprocket ratio.
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    Calculating the percentage change in sprocket ratios:

    ((new ratio / old Ratio) - 1) * 100 = change as a percentage.
    NOTE: Positive percentages indicate higher gearing ratios, negative numbers mean lower gearing ratios

    Example (using the numbers from the first set of equations):
    Motorcycle had a 3.1333 sprocket ratio,
    cycle will now have a 3.3333 sprocket ratio

    ((3.3333 / 3.1333) - 1) * 100) =
    ((1.0638) - 1) * 100) =
    (.0638) * 100) = 6.38% change



    Effect On Altering The Sprocket Ratio



    1) The Percentage change is the increase or decrease in available torque compared to stock. It is also the percentage that your RPM's will increase/decrease for any given steady speed (i.e. - if stock is 5000 RPM at 100Km/h, a 10% change will make the RPMs 5500 at 100km/h. Additionally, if your bike reads the speed off the front sprocket, your speedo will be off by this amount as well.

    2) By altering the sprocket ratios to a positive percentage change, you are trading some effective top-end HP for effective low-end torque. Torque primarily affects acceleration between 0 - 100km/h, while effective HP affects primarily speeds above 100 (especially top speed), and the ability to counteract wind resistance. If your bike can reach speeds above 160 km/h, expect a 12% - 15% change to cut off your top speed by certain %, because that HP you've traded is critical to overcoming the wind resistance at high speeds. Also expect seriously degraded fuel-mileage as a result of the trade-off.

    3) By altering the sprocket ratios to a negative percentage change, you are trading some effective torque for increased effective HP, but this is likely to only alter your mileage at steady cruising speeds (constant NS highway riding) , not increase your top speed, as the actual total HP for the bike has not increased.
    The primary reason for going with a negative percentage change is to reduce the RPM's required to cruise at whatever standard cruising speed you ride at if you do a lot of long-haul touring or commuting (e.g. - getting you out of a zone of vibration if you happen to normally cruise right at the same RPM that the bike vibrates the most).

    4) Large percentage (more than 8% or so) changes in either direction (from stock) can produce undesirable results.
    - Large positive percentage changes can cut your top speed significantly, reduce your effective traction under high throttle applications, and may cause the front end to become light or wheelie in response to the increase in torque.
    - Large negative percentage changes can actually increase your gas mileage if you are not cruising steady (as you try to compensate for sluggish performance by giving it more gas during acceleration), and will reduce your rate of acceleration (including out of a dangerous situations).

    5) Changes under 3% from the current ratio are not likely to be noticed by the rider.

    6) Whenever feasible to obtain a specific ratio, avoid using a smaller than stock front sprocket. The smaller sprocket requires the links of the chain to turn a tighter radius, which increases friction and decreases the life expectancy of the chain (by decreasing the life-expectancy of the o-ring seals of the chain).

    7) Adding sprockets with additional teeth will require a chain with a higher link count to compensate for the longer path the chain now needs to take. Using sprockets with fewer teeth will require a chain with less links to cover the same adjustment range.

    8) Unless you very recently replaced your chain, always replace chains when replacing sprockets (and visa-versa). The two surfaces are designed to mate and wear together (the sprocket-tooth/chain-roller interface) and use of a new sprocket with a worn chain can quickly ruin the sprocket... similarly, use of a worn sprocket with a new chain will quickly ruin the chain.


    Maintainence of Sprocket and Chain coming up next

    Attachment are a copy of Sprocket Ratio Chart for easy conversion.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by arjen; 21-09-2007 at 06:55 PM.
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    Hi. Thx Metalfyre for the comprehensive guide on checking 2nd hand bike. Thing is may i know the procedure for the paperwork once after "Yes this is the bike i wanna get". lol paiseh i noob + suck at paper...

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    If it's a deal done at a shop, you simply need to bring your license and identity card along with you. Almost always, the shop will settle the works for you.

    However, if you're purchasing a bike from a private seller, you'll first need to purchase insurance for the bike under your own name. Simply waltz into any of the outlets (eg NTUC's @ Bras Basah) or call to get a quotation. After which, you'll have to proceed down to LTA @ Sin Min to get the vehicle ownership transfer done. You'll again need your identity card as well as your certificate of insurance that you have just purchased. If the seller is unable to make it, you can procure the form online at the one-motoring website and ask him to sign it first. You'll also require his identity card as well.
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    Good tips on pumping petrol to give you some extra $mileages.

    Gas (Petrol)

    Someone who has been in petroleum pipeline business for about 31 years
    and is currently working for the Kinder-Morgan Pipeline in San Jose, CA
    wrote the following information:

    We deliver about 4 million gallons in a 24-hour period from the pipe
    line; one day it's diesel, the next day it's jet fuel and gasoline. We
    have 34 storage tanks here with a total capacity of 16,800,000 gallons.
    Here are some tricks to help you get your money's worth.

    1. Fill up your car or truck in the morning when the temperature is
    still cool. Remember that all service stations have their storage tanks
    buried below ground; and the colder the ground, the denser the gasoline.
    When it gets warmer gasoline expands, so if you're filling up in the
    afternoon or in the evening, what should be a gallon is not exactly a
    gallon. In the petroleum business, the specific gravity and temperature
    of the fuel (gasoline, diesel, jet fuel, ethanol and other petroleum
    products) are significant. Every truckload that we load is
    temperature-compensated so that the indicated gallonage is actually the
    amount pumped. A one-degree rise in temperature is a big deal for
    businesses, but service stations don't have temperature compensation at
    their pumps.

    2. If a tanker truck is filling the station's tank at the time you want
    to buy gas, do not fill up; most likely dirt and sludge in the tank is
    being stirred up when gas is being delivered, and you might be
    transferring that dirt from the bottom of their tank into your car's
    tank.

    3. Fill up when your gas tank is half-full (or half-empty), because the
    more gas you have in your tank the less air there is and gasoline
    evaporates rapidly, especially when it's warm. (Gasoline storage tanks
    have an internal floating 'roof' membrane to act as a barrier between
    the gas and the atmosphere, thereby minimizing evaporation.)

    4. If you look at the trigger you'll see that it has three delivery
    settings: slow, medium and high. When you're filling up do not squeeze
    the trigger of the nozzle to the high setting.
    You should be pumping at the slow setting, thereby minimizing vapors
    created while you are pumping. Hoses at the pump are corrugated; the
    corrugations act as a return path for vapor recovery from gas that
    already has been metered. If you are pumping at the high setting, the
    agitated gasoline contains more vapor, which is being sucked back into
    the underground tank, so you're getting less gas for your money.

    Hope this will help ease your 'pain at the pump' !
    Mar'06~Aug'08: Phantom TA200

  38. #38
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    Compiled the list of topics and FAQ covered in the first page for easier navigation.
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    thanks arjen and metal,

    one more question, once metalfyre said that stop the bike by key, not using off-switch (kill-switch, near right hand-grip), coz kill-switch will harm engine parts.
    i used to stop the bike by kill-switch, but now trying to off the engine by key.
    can u guys add more info about this to newbie guide ?

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    to add to kmax's question, is it good if i clutch in and turn off my key when i can't reach my neutral gear..?

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    Information on Octane Ratings

    Gasoline or petrol is a petroleum-derived liquid mixture consisting mostly of aliphatic hydrocarbons and enhanced with aromatic hydrocarbons toluene, benzene or iso-octane to increase octane ratings, primarily used as fuel in internal combustion engines.

    An important characteristic of gasoline is its octane rating, which is a measure of how resistant gasoline is to the abnormal combustion phenomenon known as detonation (also known as knocking, pinging, spark knock, and other names). A higher-octane fuels allow for a higher compression ratio - this means less space in a cylinder on its combustion stroke, hence a higher cylinder temperature which improves efficiency according to Carnot's theorem, along with fewer wasted hydrocarbons (therefore less pollution and wasted energy), bringing higher power levels coupled with less pollution overall because of the greater efficiency.

    Different countries have some variation in what RON (Research Octane Number) is standard for gasoline, or petrol. In the UK, ordinary regular unleaded petrol is 91 RON (not commonly available), premium unleaded petrol is always 95 RON, and super unleaded is usually 97-98 RON. However both Shell and BP produce fuel at 102 RON for cars with hi-performance engines, and the supermarket chain Tesco began in 2006 to sell super unleaded petrol rated at 99 RON. In the US, octane ratings in fuels can vary between 86-87 AKI (91-92 RON) for regular, through 89-90 (94-95) for mid-grade (European Premium), up to 90-94 (RON 95-99) for premium unleaded or E10 (Super in Europe)

    Contrary to widespread belief, the octane rating doesn't indicate how much power the fuel delivers; all grades of gasoline contain roughly the same amount of heat energy. Rather, a higher octane rating means the fuel is less likely to cause your engine to knock or ping. Knock, also known as detonation, occurs when part of the fuel-air mixture in one or more of your car's cylinders ignites spontaneously due to compression, independent of the combustion initiated by the spark plug. (The ideal gas law tells us that a gas heats up when compressed.) Instead of a controlled burn, you get what amounts to an explosion--not a good thing for your engine. To avoid this, high-octane gas is formulated to burn slower than regular, making it less likely to ignite without benefit of spark.

    The majority of cars are designed to run on regular gas, and that's what the manuals tell the owners to use. Higher-performance cars often require midgrade or premium gas because their engines are designed for higher compression (higher compression = more power), and regular gas may cause knock. If your car needs high-octane gas, the manual will say so.

    Using high-octane gas in a car designed for regular accomplishes little except more rapid combustion of your money. Some refuse to believe this, claiming, for example, that premium gives the family Toyota better mileage or more power. These people are in dreamland. Others say premium is purer or contains detergents that will cleanse your engine of uncouth deposits. Likewise misguided thinking--government regulations require detergents in all grades of gasoline. Some automotive types claim that using premium in a car designed for regular will make the engine dirtier--something about deposits on the back side of the intake valves. Slower-burning high-octane gas produces less power when used in ordinary cars. Believe what you like; the point is, don't assume "premium" means "better."
    Mar'06~Aug'08: Phantom TA200

     

     
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    guys, this is one of our most informative reference threads. Lets try to keep it clean.
    Kindly refrain from chatting here. There are plenty of other threads for you to TCSS.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lif35ux View Post
    Hi. Anyone can help with this? i don wan my bike to be damage. i always use the kill-switch.
    I a bit lazy to explain. Suffice to say that a mechanic friend told me not to use the EMERGENCY kill switch because it is only for use in EMERGENCIES and not to regularly switch off your bike. Damage suffered is akin to throwing clutch and letting your bike die. U off using key, your engine can cycle down rather than come to an abrupt halt from whatever your idling speed might be. So if you don't want your bike to be damaged, use your key to off the bike.
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    Kill switch or ignition is the same. Both cut electrical power to the spark plug so as to stop the engine. Its got nothing to do with being in the same neighbourhood of throwing clutch. Either way the engine cycles to a natural stop rather than being forced to stop.

    I tend to prefer using the kill switch to stop my engine as its also less risky on the electrics with the rectifier and all stopped first before turning off the ignition that disconnects the battery.

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    Ultimately its up to you to believe or not. I very lazy to explain further. If you think it's the same, go on ahead and go on using your kill switch. On my part, I'll just go on trusting my mechanic friend.
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  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by SNapEl View Post
    Kill switch or ignition is the same. Both cut electrical power to the spark plug so as to stop the engine. Its got nothing to do with being in the same neighbourhood of throwing clutch. Either way the engine cycles to a natural stop rather than being forced to stop.

    I tend to prefer using the kill switch to stop my engine as its also less risky on the electrics with the rectifier and all stopped first before turning off the ignition that disconnects the battery.
    Quote Originally Posted by Metalfyre View Post
    Ultimately its up to you to believe or not. I very lazy to explain further. If you think it's the same, go on ahead and go on using your kill switch. On my part, I'll just go on trusting my mechanic friend.
    dudes, I'm wondering
    Cars/Atvs/JetSkis and many vehicles, they don't have this kill switch(some jetskis do; attached to wrist) So whats the difference with theirs to ours?

    SNapEl: does it mean cars will have the problem that you mentioned?

    Metalfyre: won't doubt your knowledge but I found this is intriguing since you brought it up long ago. Hope someone *hinting kmax* will dig up some info as supplement to our Singaporean brains

    smiles to all :]
    jB
    Click below link or copy+paste for good deals!
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/417915-WTS-Shoei-XR-1100-Diabolic-Cimmerian-Mint-Condition-L-Size-CHEAP!-9-8-10?p=8191458#post8191458

    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/406472-WTS-Blaupunkt-Style-Headphones-Unopened-BNIB!

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    Quote Originally Posted by jB View Post
    SNapEl: does it mean cars will have the problem that you mentioned?
    Modern cars now have PCBs, Chips and ECUs in between the driver controls and the rest of the whole car... I assume that the turning of the key to start the engine is not directly connected to the starter motor but rather signals the ECU that the ignition key is turned and to start the start/stop engine sequence.

    Of course i only meant that it lowers the risk of electrical damage due to surges.

    Then again i'm no expert nor mechanic, so this is only based on my own thinking and unprofessional reasoning.

    If others are too lazy to provide reasons otherwise and I can't google up relevant cons of using the kill switch often, then i guess i dun have a reason to think otherwise.

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    The reason I'm demurring from discussing this is because my mechanic friend did not explain it to me in full detail, and thus I am forced to theorize as to why using the kill switch induces the same damage as slipping your clutch. The lazy bit stems from having to try and dig out what I thought of when all that's swimming in my head now are topics with regards to my upcoming exams >_<

    So in that light, my theorizing is similiar to SNapEl's 'unprofessional reasoning'. But something to consider is this: if modern cars are insulated from the surging problem, what about older cars? Say, the older Porshe 911 that's still around, 10+ year old Sunnys and Civics etc. Years and years of attrition through switching off the engine using the ignition should have made such surges commonplace by now, but I haven't heard of it...yet. Maybe you'd like to enlighten regarding this?
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    Electrical relays and capacitors are widely available 10+ years ago and are also used to protect against surges then. I hope vehicle engineers have some sense to put them in the car when designing their electrical circuits. Then again surges happening may or may not be possible in the starting and stopping of an engine. I do not know for sure. I'm only saying that I am lowering risks as i deduce that it can be possible. If the risks are already 0 den i guess it doesn't apply but that is not the greatest factor in me using the kill switch to stop my engine. Its just for convenience and preference sake.

    When you say inducing the same damage as the slippage of clutch i assume you mean that the kill switch forces the engine to halt just as how it happens when a stationary bike has its clutch released. In that case with the kill switch on the starter motor should not be able to turn the engine, just like when the bike is left in gear 1. However that is not the case. Moreover the kill switch is only an electrical switch, no hydraulics nor tension cable to release the clutch while overwriting the clutch lever or induce a braking effect on the engine. Also imagine this, you are riding @ 70km/h and the kill switch is flipped on. In your case the engine will cause higher than normal engine braking due to both the clutch still being engaged to the engine and another braking effect to the engine due to the some device the kill switch activates. Won't that run a significant risk of rear wheel locking and skidding?

    I don't find it logical that the kill swtich should cause the engine to halt immediately due to it activating a device to cause a braking effect other than to cut power to the spark plug in order to stop igniting fuel and thus killing a running engine.
    Last edited by SNapEl; 01-06-2008 at 03:42 PM.

  50. #50
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    upon buying a 2nd hand bike from private owner, is there any doc which i will keep other then insurance?

    doc stating bike name , bike plate number ect?
    JOSHUA
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