Brazil Motorcycle Police Chase Is Absolutely Nuts

Estimated read time2 min read

In case you haven’t been paying attention for a really long time, Brazil has quite the problem with robbers on motorcycles. Typically, these people will pick out a target and have at least two people involved, one to snatch a purse/bag or hold someone up to steal money or other valuables, then a getaway rider. Sometimes they strike in groups with two or three bikes.

Things have gotten so bad with these outlaws that some Brazilians have taken to plowing them down with their cars when they see a robbery in progress. Others pack heat and turn the tables. You might be wondering why people would be so fed up with the problem, but to see a police officer on a motorcycle try chasing down this pair of robbers on a motorcycle might give you a hint.

 

Both are excellent riders and seem to know the city streets like the back of their hand. It’s like something out of a movie, only there are no random explosions or other wanton violence. But there are plenty of nail biting moments where the robbers and officer take blind corners at speed, something which easily could have ended in tragedy.

 

The number of close calls with cars, buses, heavy trucks, and inanimate objects is insane. Both take the speed humps in the road with grace and show an adeptness for cutting corners without hitting curbs that would make many riders envious.

However, the chase can’t go on forever. As the cop stays on their tail, you can see the passenger and rider keep looking back as if they can’t believe they haven’t lost him. That’s when the suspect rider pushes things to a whole other level, going down narrow alleys that are barely wide enough for either motorcycle, and it’s a gamble that absolutely backfires.

 

Article Credits: theautowire

 

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How to lane-splitting on a motorbike: Expert advice to help you make proper progress in traffic

It’s a question we get asked a lot: how do you filter safely and legally on a motorbike? As cars and 4x4s get ever fatter, the lanes we use for filtering (otherwise known as ‘lane-splitting’) are becoming narrower, the margins for error tighter. So more than ever the slickest and safest way to slip through traffic is to slow everything down.

On dual carriageways and motorways aim to travel at no more than 20mph faster than the traffic you are passing. That means your max speed will be 20mph if the traffic is stationary; 30mph if it’s moving at 10mph. This speed differential, the relationship between your speed and that of the other traffic, is the ticket to a serene and effortless passage.  

Yes, the key is not to rush but to give yourself the space and time to question and ask ‘what if?’. What if a car in the right-hand lane suddenly fills the gap that’s appearing in the middle lane? What if an angry driver ahead, perhaps one who resents filtering motorcycles, decides to squeeze the gap you are aiming for?  

If you question rather than assume, your speed will naturally fall within the 20mph differential. 

Traffic hates a vacuum anywhere but in town especially any gap is likely to be quickly filled by frustrated drivers eager to grab any opportunity to progress. When you filter past junctions expect cars to be emerging or forcefully turning across your path, quite likely both.

Pedestrians, too, live on another planet to motorcyclists and can be wildly unpredictable, with any gap in the traffic becoming an impromptu crossing for runners, school kids and shoppers. If one emerges more may follow – all erroneously believing in safety in numbers.

Create a presence: be ready to use your horn to wake up a dozy driver, who these days is more cocooned than ever from the world outside his car. Take any perceived aggression out of the situation by a wave of acknowledgement afterwards.  

Above all, slow it down, give yourself time to assess and be smooth. Riders who don’t think are normally the fastest filterers. For a while.   

Are you allowed to filter through traffic on a motorbike?

Absolutely. The Highway Code says “You should be aware of what is behind and to the sides before manoeuvring. Look behind you; use mirrors if they are fitted. When in traffic queues look out for pedestrians crossing between vehicles and vehicles emerging from junctions or changing lanes. Position yourself so that drivers in front can see you in their mirrors. Additionally, when filtering in slow-moving traffic, take care and keep your speed low.”

Top tips for filtering/lane-splitting on a motorcycle

• Check your speed when filtering; are you within the maximum 20mph differential?
• Question, scan and try to identify gaps in the traffic where traffic may cross your path
• Watch out for any potential surface changes such as painted white lines, and think about how they could affect you
• Practise using the horn: when you need it, you need to know where the button is first time

Filtering/lane-splitting FAQs

Is filtering on a motorbike legal in the Singapore?

Lane-splitting is not technically illegal in Singapore, but should never impact your safety, or that of other road users.

Is filtering the same as overtaking?

In its most simple terms, yes, filtering is simply overtaking. With that in mind, be very careful not to cross solid white lines.

Are motorbikes allowed to undertake?

Passing a vehicle on the left (which could also be called undertaking) is only allowed either when the vehicle ahead of indicating right, or when traffic in the right-hand lane is moving slower than your lane. Source: White Dalton solicitors

Article Credits: MCN

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'Russia's Most Beautiful Biker': Influencer Dies After Her Bike Collides With Truck In Turkey

MotoTanya, was a famous motoblogger, with a following of around 8 million across her social media accounts.

Russian influencer Tatyana Ozolina | Visuals from the crash spot | Photo: X/@berkutchii/@TrollCTO69420

Social media influencer Tatyana Ozolina, dubbed as 'Russia's most beautiful biker', was killed in horrific bike crash in Turkey.

The 38-year-old MotoTanya 'lost control' of her red-coloured BMW S1000RR 2015 bike, leading to the collision with a truck near Milas, somewhere between the provincial capital of Mugla and a famous resort Bodrum. She reportedly had passed away even before the paramedics arrived at the scene.

 

Onur Obut, a Turkish biker, who was accompanying Ozolina survived the accident but suffered grievous injuries. Obut is currently undergoing treatment in a hospital.

According to the Daily Mail, which cited local reports, a third biker at the scene survived uninjured.

MotoTanya had a vast following on social media, with around five million followers on TikTok, two million subscribers on YouTube and some 973K on Instagram.

She had reportedly been denied entry in to the European Union at the Greek border given the curbs placed on Russians amid President Vladimir Putin's war against Ukraine.

In one of her last posts on social, she had posted saying, "I was upset that I didn't get to ride in Europe, but not too much, because I knew that this could happen. So I go on, to conquer the beautiful, warm and hospitable Turkey."

Ozolina's family, including her 13-year-old son, are in "state of shock".

Head of the MotoMoscow Association, Andrei Ivanov, said in tribute to Ozolina, "MotoTanya is not with us anymore, she had a bright and beautiful life, millions of people followed her. Perhaps there is not a single motorcyclist in the country who was indifferent to Tatyana."

"She was adored, envied, admired, copies, awarded as a top blogger and, at the same time, discussed and slandered. Now all that remains is her memory. Sleep well," Ivanov was quoted as saying by the Daily Mail.

Notably, crowdfunding platform Kickstarter recognised Ozolina as Motoblogger of the Year in 2023 and Travel Blogger of the Year in April 2024.

 

"Tanya was one of the biggest bloggers in the motorcycle industry. She told her subscribers about her adventures and passion for speed," newspaper Komsomolskaya Pravda was cited as saying.

Reportedly, Ozolina had braked right in front of the truck, however the truck driver did not react and hit her bike, leading her to lose control and fall in the ditch.

Article Credits: OutlookIndia

 

 

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In Indonesia’s ‘Gotham City’, police hunt 13 former cops on wanted list involved in motorcycle theft syndicate

The Medan Metropolitan Police Department shared the list showing the alleged suspects in their full police uniforms that was subsequently posted on social media. 

The former officers from the Medan Metropolitan Police Department who are on the wanted list. (Source: North Sumatra Police Department)

MEDAN: Police in Indonesia’s North Sumatra province are on the hunt for 13 former cops who were allegedly involved in a suspected motorcycle theft syndicate even as social media was set ablaze by the authorities’ revelation of the crimes with the issuance of a “wanted list” involving them. 

Last week, the Medan Metropolitan Police Department shared a wanted list featuring 15 people who themselves were members of the department that was subsequently posted on social media. All have since been dismissed from their posts. 

Of the 15, two have already been dealt with by the law.   

They were shown on the wanted list wearing their police uniforms in the photos, and the images are now displayed on the announcement board at the Medan Metropolitan Police Department headquarters. 

According to a report from Indonesian news outlet Kompas, the 15 former officers were allegedly involved in a motorcycle theft syndicate that had operated under the guise of a cash on delivery (COD) transaction system since October 2022.

COD is a type of transaction where the recipient pays for a good at the time of delivery rather than using credit. 

Medan, the city in which the syndicate allegedly operated in, ranks as the second most crime-ridden city in Indonesia after Jakarta, according to 2020 data from the Central Bureau of Statistics.

The city - which is the country’s fifth most populous - has even earned the moniker "Gotham City" akin to the shadowy fictional city in DC Comics where Bruce Wayne/Batman resides.

Medan's current mayor is Mr Bobby Nasution, who is President Joko Widodo’s son-in-law.  

HOW THE SYNDICATE WORKED 

Two of the former officers on the list who had already been charged - and identified as Chief Brigadier Ari Galih Gumilang and First Brigadier Haris Kurnia Putra - had allegedly worked with two civilians and another cop to rob a man by posing as prospective buyers interested in purchasing a motorcycle that had been advertised for sale on Facebook.  

After an initial contact through WhatsApp, the prospective seller - identified as Mr Benny Setiawan Sembiring - agreed to meet up. Mr Sembiring brought along his wife and daughter.

The two civilians colluding with the officers then came on a motorcycle to the meeting point posing as prospective buyers.

"At first, those two people came to inspect (my) motorcycle and learn how to use the remote control. I began to suspect something was off," Mr Sembiring reportedly told local media. 

Sometime later, Ari, Haris and the third cop - who was not included on the authorities’ wanted list - arrived and introduced themselves as officers from the North Sumatra Police Department. 

They confiscated Mr Sembiring’s motorcycle registration certificate and keys, claiming the vehicle was linked to a criminal case and insisting on taking it to Sunggal Police Station, one of Medan's district police stations.

Mr Sembiring refused to surrender to their demands and began recording the incident. 

They then tried to take the motorcycle and the registration certificate forcefully but were thwarted when Mr Sembiring disabled the vehicle’s ignition. The group continued to threaten Mr Sembiring and tried to force him into their car. 

Mr Sembiring then threatened to call his associate at the North Sumatra Police Department: Chief Commissioner Tatan Dirsan Atmaja, who is the Director of Criminal Investigation.

Upon hearing Mr Tatan’s name, the five hastily retreated to their vehicle to flee.   

Mr Sembiring’s wife was injured while attempting to prevent their escape and was dragged by the fleeing car.

After the incident, Mr Sembiring reported the robbery attempt to the police. 

The three officers were subsequently apprehended. Investigations revealed that the trio had committed over 10 similar motorcycle thefts using the COD method.

They had colluded with police officers from Sunggal Police Station and Helvetia Police Station in Medan. In addition, they were also found to be involved in drug offenses.

The internal affairs division of North Sumatra Police dismissed them from service on Nov 11, 2022.

Ari and the third cop were sentenced to 1.5 years jail each while Haris was imprisoned for a year. The two other men involved in Mr Sembiring’s attempted robbery remain at large.   

FORMER COPS REMAIN AT LARGE 

The remaining 13 officers on the wanted list have also been dishonorably dismissed, local media reported. 

Adjunct chief commissioner Sonny W Siregar, head of public information at the North Sumatra Police Department, said that some of the 15 former officers have been captured, but did not provide specifics on who had been arrested. 

The full list of wanted former officers include first Sub-Inspector Sutarso, Chief Brigadier Ari Galih Gumilang, Sutrisno, and Riswandi.

The other wanted former officers - all with the rank of brigadier - are: Eliot TM Silitonga, Mulyadi, Refandi, Rudianto Ginting, Afriyanto Maha, Safril, M Ade Nugraha, and Jefri Suzaldi.

The last three names on the list are First Brigadier Haris Kurnia Putra, Second Brigadier Erdi Kurniawan, and Second Brigadier Hasanudin Sitohang.

Article Credits: CNA

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TOP 10 BEST VALUE MOTORCYCLES UP TO 500CC

You may not have the biggest budget or the biggest need to go big power but there are plenty of treats to be had in the sub-500cc motorcycle segment

There’s no more obvious ‘middle point’ in bike capacities than 500cc, and while most motorcycles seem to fall on either side of the magic marker, the line right down the middle represents some of the most keenly-contested - and big selling - segments. However, finding a bike in the mid-capacity segments that is both appealing to you and to your budget is no more straightforward than in those either above or below.

 

So, for this Top 10 we’re going sub-500cc, doing so on what we reckon is a reasonable budget, and we’re going to tell you which we reckon is the very best of all.

Budget never looked so bountiful.

10. Benelli TRK 502 (from £5,999)

 

 

Forget the extra ‘2’, the TRK is actually 500cc and is effectively a slightly larger, slightly cruder, Italian/Chinese version of Honda’s brilliant, class-leading (and just updated again) CB500X, now NX500. 

Like the Honda, it’s a parallel twin pumping out an A2-licence compliant 47bhp. It’s a little harsher than the Honda but otherwise more than acceptable. Being slightly bigger it suits taller riders, especially in wire-wheeled, more rugged ‘X’ form. 

Plus its spec now (with LCD clocks etc) is a touch dated, but it’s also a more than capable 500cc all-rounder and great value as well. Just ask the Italians… the Benelli 502 TRK has sold more than any other motorcycle over there this year.

9. Vespa GTS300 (£5,700)

 

We couldn’t overlook scooters entirely here, but which to choose? Easy. The class-leading TMAX, at now 560cc, is too big to be included here and BMW’s C400s are too sensible, so there can be only one. 

The Vespa GTS remains the definitive scoot, and in 300cc form, it’s an impressively able and classy all-rounder. Boasting Piaggio’s 300 HPE engine, the GTS300 produces 24bhp and 19lb ft, but it’s not the performance that makes this scoot appeal as much as its beautiful, subtle, curved lines and retro aesthetic.

Yup, at £5,700 it’s not the least expensive thing out there, but sub-500cc scooters simply don’t get classier.

8. Honda CRF300L (£5,799)

 

 

Once upon a time (ie in the late 1970s and early ‘80s) 125-500cc trail bikes were everywhere. Machines like Yamaha’s two-stroke/four-stroke DT175/250 and XT250/500, Suzuki’s similar TS/DRs and many more defined a generation and delivered a brilliant introduction to on/off-road riding. 

Not any more. The Honda CRF300L, however, stands out. Introduced in 2012 powered by a 23bhp, liquid-cooled, DOHC single, it’s a ‘proper’ trail bike, more than capable off-road and a pleasant, easy road bike, too. 

A Dakar-style adventure version was added in 2017 before both were boosted by an enlarged engine for 2021. If you want a proper, dual-purpose, sub-500cc trailie in the spirit of the 1970s, this is the one.

7. BMW G310R (£5,190)

 

 

First launched in 2016, BMW’s Indian-built, entry-level roadster single was updated for 2021 with Euro5 compliance, new LED lights and adjustable levers and remains the best sub-500cc introduction to premium BMW motorcycling (there’s also a G310GS which is somehow less convincing). 

In truth, there’s nothing particularly outstanding about it. With 34bhp it’s not that powerful. Though a pleasant handler and great around town it’s not as exciting as, say, KTM’s offering, and it’s not particularly lavishly equipped, either. 

But that’s missing the point: the G310R is sweet looking, a better-than-average performer, not bad value and, best of all, it’s a BMW, starting your motorcycling journey with one of the most admired brands of all. For a sub-500cc bike nothing does it better.

6. Yamaha MT-03 (£6,005)

 

Yamaha’s A2-compliant, 321cc twins, the sports-styled YZF-R3 and its naked brother, the MT-03 have tended to be overshadowed by both more glamorous rivals (such as Kawasaki’s Ninja/Z 400 duo) and by Yamaha’s more mainstream or larger stablemates, such as the R125, MT-07 and R1 – but they’re both great bikes and, after a 2020 update, better than ever. 

Now with inverted forks, a smart new LCD dash and freshened-up styling, the MT-03 is a great all-rounder and brilliant introduction to bigger bikes. Its engine produces a willing 41bhp, its chassis is agile, intuitive and fun and it’s good-looking and decently equipped. 

It might not have the wow factor of KTM’s 390 Duke or the updated aplomb of the new CB500 Hornet, but it’s a great sub-500cc roadster which won’t leave you disappointed.

5. Royal Enfield Meteor 350 (from £4,059)

 

 

If Enfield’s new (yes it is new, honest) Meteor 350 is anything to go by there seems to be a growing trend for ever LESS powerful motorcycles – but don’t let that put you off, cos really, Royal Enfield’s new ‘cruiser’ single is a sweetie. 

Sure its meagre 20bhp won’t get anyone excited, but it’s a willing puppy of a bike, a pleasure to humbly thrum around on, with a charming olde worlde style, idiot-proof manners and impressive commuting economy. 

Best of all, though, its quality, style and detailing are huge advances over previous Enfields and it costs mere pennies. Want a cheap, sorta-cool, sub-500cc (but 125cc+) commuter? This is the one you need…

4. KTM Duke 390 (£5,699)

 

 

KTM’s supermoto-derived Dukes are rightly legendary: ultra-lightweight and nimble, powered by punchy, cutting-edge singles and with an aggressive style all their own. 

But, while at 17 you’ll go for the 125, the latest 890R is a wicked weasel of a motorcycle, and the big 1290 very much lives up to its ‘Beast’ nickname, it’s the midrange, 44bhp 390 which is arguably the best of all. 

Nimble, lively, sub-500cc bikes don’t get much better and, if you’re not convinced by its ‘naked’ style, the Austrian firm also offers the punchy 390 single in its 390 Adventure or recently-updated RC390 sportster as well…

3. Husqvarna Svartpilen 401 (£5,499)

 

 

When KTM-owned Husqvarna first unveiled its Duke 390 derived, restyled 401 Vitpilen café racer and its sister bike, the semi-scrambler/roadster Svartpilen in 2018 it’s fair to say they got mixed reviews. 

The style and base mechanicals were loved, the excessive, approaching £6000 prices, less so. Not any more. By now, the Vitpilen is out of production, but a major price cut compared to its earliest days sees the 401 Svartpilen coming in at the £5,500 mark.

If you want a lively, great performing – but different and more fashion conscious sub-500cc bike, the Svartpilen is more than worth a look.

2. Fantic Caballero Scrambler 500 (from £6,700)

 

 

You might think this is a bit of a curveball. We think it’s one of the most fun, stylish, entertaining and different ‘500s’ you can buy. 

Launched by the revived Italian off-road brand in 2019, the Caballero is a brilliant mix of retro style and modern mechanicals and performance with the result being one of the best ‘feel good’ bikes you can buy. 

Sure it’s a bit niche, dealers aren’t exactly everywhere and its base mechanicals are mostly Chinese. But the Caballero Scrambler also somehow feels just ‘right’, is one of the most natural 500s in this group, and the 39bhp from its liquid-cooled, 449cc single is more than sufficient.

The whole thing is an absolute hoot on a sunny Sunday afternoon, thus one of the best 500cc bikes of all. Period.

1. Honda CB500 Hornet / Honda CBR500R / Honda NX500 (from £6,199)

 

 

There wasn’t much wrong with them but… they’ve improved them again anyway. 

Launched originally way back in 2014 as Honda’s then all-new three-strong offerings for the A2 class, the CB family (comprising CB500F roadster, CBR500 sportster and CB500X adventure bike) has just been updated again. This has been a bit of a significant update, as the CB500X has become the NX500, the CBR500R has remained the same, and the CB500F has become the CB500 Hornet.

For our money, the taller, roomier NX is the best, but we’ve got no argument with any of them. All are based around the same frame and brilliantly willing, easy and versatile 471cc 47bhp twin. They’re also fine, neutral handlers, decently equipped, reliable and good value. 

For 2024, they keep the uprated suspension from the 2022 update, with Showa Big Piston forks and radial brakes. 

The name changes, though, have brought new styling, with the CBR gaining side pods, the NX moving further in the direction of the Transalp, and the Hornet adopting aesthetics that line it up with the CB750 Hornet and CB1000 Hornet.

There are also ECU updates improving acceleration and bringing HSTC, and new TFTs (in the case of the NX, taken from the XL750 Transalp) in place of old LCDs.
Pricing begins at £6,199 for the Hornet, while the CBR500R comes in at £6,699, and the NX500 at £6,799.

 

Article Credits: visordown

 

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Under Pressure

There was a time when riders routinely performed a series of checks before hitting the road. A day’s ride almost always began with a pop of the gas cap to check fuel level, a swipe of the oil dipstick and a careful check of tire pressures. Today, thanks to technology, motorcycles practically manage themselves, requiring less of us when it comes to maintenance. Unfortunately, that’s made many of us complacent about performing pre-ride inspections.

Among the most commonly overlooked maintenance items are tires, yet the condition of these black hoops is vital to the handling of the motorcycle and safety of its rider. OK, so your bike has tire pressure monitoring sensors (TPMS), right? By the time you get a warning on the instrument panel, air pressures have already dropped to a level that can compromise safety. It doesn’t account for loads that call for higher tire pressures, nor can TPMS tell you when there is a nail in the tread.

So grab your gauge and get down to it. A quick glance or a kick of the boot won’t do the trick. Modern motorcycle tires have stiff sidewalls and don’t distort enough to reveal underinflation (see pictures above). While you’re there, check tire condition and look for foreign objects. It’s not uncommon for riders to unknowingly cover hundreds of miles with multiple metal objects lodged in their tires.

Getting on my knees and crawling around on the driveway to check tire pressures isn’t one of my favorite things. But wrestling with a blowout or sitting at the edge of the road with a flat tire is even less appealing.

Article Credits: ridermagazine

Like dodging downpours? Find out how to ride your motorcycle in rain

The latest rubber offers incredible wet weather grip, but we often wonder whether it helps to be a bit obsessive about riding a bike. Obsessive people think about every detail, and test the smallest little things to see if they make an improvement. Nowhere is that mindset more useful than when the wind is howling and it’s pouring with rain.

The critical problem with rain riding isn’t tyre grip or smooth throttle response. It’s being able to see where you’re going, and concentrate. Being dazzled by oncoming traffic in the dark, or making a poorly-timed overtake because you’re freezing your tail off – these things are far more problematic than a slippery road.

Look after your visor

Clear vision is even more important in heavy rain. This is doubly important as rainwater also tends to cling to a mucky visor, further reducing what you can see.

Use an anti-fog device such as a Pinlock on your visor to prevent it steaming up, and try to avoid opening your visor, as once rain gets on the inside it can be very hard to clear.

How far should I be from the vehicle in front?

You need to double your braking distance in heavy rain for two reasons. Firstly because you physically can’t stop as quickly as in the dry and, secondly because your visibility is impaired, which will give you less time to react.

Which lane is safest when it’s wet?

Generally speaking, on dual carriageways and motorways the inside lane holds the most water. This is because trucks often create two ‘gutters’ – deeper channels of water where the lorry wheels run. Beware, especially when moving back into this lane.

Danger lurks in dips

Dips or undulations in the road will hold water. One classic location is where a road passes through a tunnel under a larger road.

Take particular care in autumn as leaves can block drains causing flooding.

How do I ride a motorbike in deep water?

With extreme caution. Are there any obstructions you can’t see? Do you know for certain how deep it is? If you decide to enter, do so slowly and try to avoid braking.

Get the right motorcycle tyres for riding in the rain

Over the years tyre development means the level of grip in cold and wet conditions has improved vastly.

Even so, sport or trackday tyres aren’t going to work as well as all-purpose/touring tyres in the wet. If you intend to ride throughout winter choose the correct rubber. The difference between a trackday tyre and a winter tyre in the wet is huge.

Tyre pressure is vital too; the grooves in the tyre won’t work correctly in the wet if the pressure is too high or too low.

Do I need electronic aids on my motorbike?

From 2016 when Euro4 regulations came into effect, it became a legal requirement to have anti-lock braking systems (ABS) installed on all new bikes over 125cc capacity, and for bikes of any size you also now need either ABS or a linked braking system.

If you’re lucky enough to have rider aids on your older bike, use them. Turn up the traction control, turn down the power and make sure the ABS is activated. All too often we forget about rider aids or just don’t bother. If applicable, also adjust the suspension as some bikes have a wet mode which makes the suspension softer.

How do I brake in the wet on a motorcycle?

Like most other things in life, braking in the wet is straightforward if you plan ahead.

The first part of the plan is to practice applying the brakes on a traffic-free stretch of road with a consistent road surface.

Start out slowly, focussing on the front brake and building up the lever pressure gradually so that you get more and more of a feel for the power of your brakes and the feel of the tyre on the road.

When a tyre is getting close to skidding it loses speed rapidly before lock up.

If you are focussed on your braking you’ll feel it in your hands and all you’ve got to do is release lever pressure and the tyre will speed up and you’ll continue to slow down in control.

And the great thing about the wet is that although the ultimate limit is earlier, the zone when it starts to break away is wider so you’ve got more time to react.

But that doesn’t mean you can ride up close to other vehicles because the fact is they can stop harder than you can and if you don’t leave plenty of room ahead you could be picking your bike up off the floor, so make sure you plan to have plenty of distance between you and other vehicles.

Be smoother too, as sudden changes of input will unsettle your bike and make it harder for you to keep that vital feel for what’s happening under your backside.

When you are braking more smoothly and gently in the wet that will bring your rear brake into play more as there’s less weight transfer, so get a feel for that too, making sure the pedal is positioned just under the sole of your boot. 

Still up for riding your motorbike in the rain? Check out the following waterproof kit recommendations on MCN:

How to ride your motorcycle on a trackday in the rain

Don’t let rain wreck your trackday! Here are some tips to help make you a wet circuit master, from MCN’s very own Chief Road Tester, racing and track driving specialist, Michael Neeves.

Be an old smoothie

Rain doesn’t need to spoil your trackday but the key to safe riding in the wet is being smooth on the controls and shifting your weight around. Concentrate on the straights; braking and accelerating hard when upright, and taking it steady in the corners.

Be progressive on the brakes

Gently release the throttle and wait for the weight to transfer to the front tyre before braking. Squeeze the front brake lever lightly at first, to get the front tyre dug in, then progressively harder, feeling for grip. Finish braking before tipping-in. Blip the throttle on down-changes to reduce engine braking.

V-shape cornering 

Do your turning off the brakes and with a neutral throttle to give the front tyre the best chance of gripping. To stabilise the bike, and give you one less to think about on the way in, hang-off way before the braking zone so you’re in the correct position before the turn. Keep the bike as upright as possible into, through and out of the corner, taking pointy V-shaped lines.

Wide, swooping arcs means leaning on the front tyre’s tiny contact patch which is risky.

Note the slippy zones

Remember where the slippery bits of track are and mentally log them for the next lap. You might have to ride off-line to avoid the smoothed-out tarmac of an apex, and you should always accelerate gently out of an off-cambered corner. Avoid painted kerbs like the plague and watch out for painted grid spots.

Give it a spin

Build confidence by deliberately making the rear wheel spin in a straight line on a long, un-cambered piece of track. You’ll be surprised by how much it actually takes to get the rear to break traction.  

Stay on the fat rubber

Hang-off to reduce your lean angle and gently pick up the throttle to get the weight transferred to the rear tyre. Only accelerate hard when the bike is completely upright. 

What tyres?

Sports touring rubber is the most suitable in the wet – sticky trackday tyres simply won’t work.

Keep the heat on

You could use tyre warmers on wets (on a low heat setting) to make them pliable, but as soon as you take them off they’ll quickly lose heat as you go from the paddock to the track.

It’s better to start cold and gradually build speed, adding heat, grip, and confidence as you go.

Article Credits: MCN

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Man rides custom-built pink 'Mini Bullet' on Delhi roads, calls it Pinki!!

A video has gone viral on the internet showing a pink-coloured custom-built miniature motorcycle riding on the streets of Delhi, garnering interest from not only netizens but also turning heads out on the road. The owner of the custom motorcycle has named it 'Pinki', signifying the pink body colour of the bike including the alloy wheels.
The 'Mini Bullet' features a single-seat, bobber-like setup with an offset monoshock at the rear and telescopic forks at the front. The retro theme of the bike is obvious with its circular headlamp and round turn indicators, with a teardrop shaped fuel tank. While the specs or dimensions of the motorcycle aren't available, it is far smaller than a regular motorcycle.

 

 

 

The motorcycle has been built by Delhi-based 'NCR Motorcycles', owned by the person seen riding it. The modifier claims that he has built this motorcycle for his daughter and is actually based on a 2013 Honda Activa scooter rather than a motorcycle. 'Pinki' uses Activa's 110 cc single-cylinder engine and chassis, with the latter having slightly modified.
The fuel tank has been taken from a Royal Enfield motorcycle, but is of course shortened a bit. The front suspension is taken from a Honda Aviator along with the front disc, while the handlebar is said to be from Royal Enfield Classic 350. A host of parts have also been custom made like the mudguard, frame, and so on.

 

What do you think about this custom-built 'Mini Bullet'? Let us know in the comments down below.

 

Article Credits: TOI

 

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Teen In China Sells Inherited House At Half The Price To Buy Motorcycle

The court expressed surprise at Xiaohua's childish behaviour, but his mother insisted it was an unfair trade.

A teenager in China sold a property he inherited worth 1 million yuan ($139,000) as half price to buy a motorcycle, a report in South China Morning Post (SCMP) said. However, a legal action by the family of 18-year-old cancelled the sale. The incident took place in Henan province in central China and came to limelight after the matter was brought before a court, the outlet further said. The court examined the papers of the deal between the teen, nicknamed Xiaohua, and two property dealers and found it unfair.

The teenager decided to sell the property he inherited from his grandfather after his parents refused to buy him a motorcycle. He did not inform the parents and approached the property agents.

The 18-year-old agreed to sell it for $72,000, and the property agent further sold it to another agent for a profit, the SCMP report said.

When Xiaohua's mother learned about the deal, she approached the property agents and requested them to cancel the deal. But when they refused, the parents took the legal route.

The court expressed surprise at Xiaohua's childish behaviour, but his mother insisted it was an unfair trade.

The judge then examined the sale deed and listened to the conversation between the teenager and the property agents. It arrived at the conclusion that the teenager was unaware of the property's market value and that the property agent duped him to sell it at much lower price.

"Xiaowu (the name of the property dealer) took advantage of Xiaohua," the judge said, as per SCMP report.

Post a commentThe court overturned the deal, and awarded the ownership of the property to Xiaohua.

Article Credits: NDTV

 

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Motorcycle rider who rammed into JPJ roadblock in PD, injuring officer, pleads guilty in court – RM5k fine

The motorcycle rider who attempted to ride through a JPJ roadblock and rammed into an officer, injuring him, has pleaded guilty at the Port Dickson magistrate court. He has been handed a RM5,000 fine by the court, TV3 reported.

The video of the incident, which went viral, showed a motorcyclist attempting to evade a JPJ roadblock, swerving and hitting an officer in the process. Both fell from the impact, and the rider was arrested.

The roadblock was on a highway in Port Dickson, Negeri Sembilan, and the incident happened last Sunday. It has been said that the rider, who was on a Yamaha 125ZR, attempted the dangerous manoeuvre as he did not have a valid license.

 

Article Credits: paultan.org

 

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Troubleshooting a Stiff Motorcycle Clutch Lever: 13 Potential Causes and Detailed Fixes

Operating a motorcycle's clutch lever should be smooth and effortless. When it starts to feel stiff or resistant, it's essential to identify the underlying issue.

Below, we delve into 13 specific causes of a hard-to-pull clutch lever and offer detailed solutions for each scenario.

1.) Dirty or Damaged Clutch Cable:

Issue: Accumulated dirt and damage within the cable housing hinder smooth movement.

Solution: Inspect for cable damage and thoroughly clean. Lubricate using a cable lubrication tool to restore proper function.

2.) Clutch Cable Obstruction:

Issue: The cable might be snagging or pinched along its route, impeding free movement.

Solution: Conduct a visual inspection along the cable's path. Reroute if necessary to ensure unobstructed motion.

3.) Excessive Clutch Cable Tension:

Issue: Over-tightened cable creates unnecessary pressure on clutch return springs, leading to a stiffer lever.

Solution: Adjust the cable tension at the lever for the recommended 3-4 mm of free play.

4.) Maintenance of Clutch Lever Pivot Point:

Issue: A dirty, rusted, or overly tight pivot point restricts lever movement.

Solution: Clean the pivot point thoroughly with soap and water, and lubricate it with WD40. If corroded, consider replacement.

5.) Improper Clutch Lever Adjustment:

Issue: Incorrect lever positioning can make clutch operation more strenuous.

Solution: If adjustable, set the lever to a comfortable position for two-finger operation.

6.) Clutch Actuator Issues:

Issue: Damaged or corroded actuator arms impede movement.

Solution: Inspect the actuator arm and pushrod for damage. Seek professional assistance for replacement or thorough cleaning.

7.) Stiff Clutch Springs:

Issue: Heavy-duty springs increase resistance at the lever.

Solution: Consider installing appropriately rated springs or explore aftermarket hydraulic clutch options.

8.) Damage to Clutch Plates or Basket:

Issue: Although rare, damage to clutch components can cause binding.

Solution: Open the clutch cover, inspect the friction plates, and replace if necessary.

9.) Low Transmission Oil Level:

Issue: Wet clutches require sufficient oil for optimal function.

Solution: Ensure proper oil levels in both the engine and transmission.

10.) Clutch Lever Length and Condition:

Issue: A broken or short lever reduces leverage, making it harder to pull.

Solution: Replace the lever if damaged. Consider installing an aftermarket lever for improved ergonomics.

11.) Clutch Lever Positioning:

Issue: Incorrect positioning strains the wrist and forearm.

Solution: Adjust the lever's position on the handlebars for a natural wrist alignment.

12.) Sticking Master or Slave Cylinder:

Issue: In hydraulic systems, binding in the cylinders can increase resistance.

Solution: Consider professional maintenance or cylinder replacement if necessary.

13.) Weak Hand and Wrist Muscles:

Issue: In some cases, the problem may be weak hand muscles.

Solution: Strengthen hand and arm muscles through targeted exercises and grip strengtheners.

Conclusion:

           A well-functioning clutch lever is crucial for a smooth and safe riding experience. By meticulously troubleshooting potential issues and applying the corresponding solutions, riders can ensure their motorcycle's clutch operation remains efficient and comfortable. Remember, routine maintenance and proper adjustments are key to preserving the longevity and performance of your clutch system.

Article Credits: Adventure Bike Troop

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How Your Motorcycle Helmet Design Can Save Your Life

All motorcyclists need to wear a motorcycle helmet, according to Singapore law. But understanding the “why” behind this law and how your motorcycle helmet works to protect you can significantly bolster your conviction to never ride without one.

First and foremost, without the structural protection of a car, the motorcycle helmet acts as a piece of armour for the rider against serious head injuries in the event of a crash or collision.

Because it’s such a crucial piece of protective equipment, choosing the right type and fit are incredibly important to ensure optimal protection.

In this article, we take an inside look into how motorbike helmets are designed to help mitigate damage in the event of a motorcycle accident, and what you need to pay attention to specifically. 
It’s also essential to note that only PSB-approved helmets are allowed for use in Singapore, so pay special attention to the section below on how to ensure your motorcycle helmet meets the safety standards in Singapore! 

The 5 Design Components of a Motorcycle Helmet

It’s clear that your motorcycle helmet protects your head from hard impact. But understanding what goes into motorcycle helmet design and how exactly each component works to protect you as a rider can deepen your respect for this utilitarian motorcycle gear piece.
 

1. Hit Zone

In a motorcycle accident, the rider is very often thrown off the bike. Your head landing on the hard ground can cause some serious damage. 

And we’re not talking just outer injuries such as a cracked jaw or skull, but also traumatic brain injuries that occur inside, such as a coup-contrecoup injury (when the brain shifts violently inside the skull), or hematomas (bleeding) that can lead to serious brain damage, and even death.
You would think that the hugest hit zones would be the front and back of a helmet, but surprisingly - and important to note! - the most major impact zone is the chin and jaw area, followed by the forehead. 

That is why full face helmets are always recommended, since they offer the highest level of protection. 

Open face helmets are popular in Singapore because they are lighter, easier to put on and take off, and also cooler in the hot Singapore weather. But it’s also worthy to consider that the coolness you feel from the additional exposed area can also be a negative when you need protection the most.

If, in the event of a bike accident, you land face first on the road, you will be thankful you splurged a bit extra on a quality full face helmet instead of an open face helmet with just a padded chin strap.

2. Outer Shell

The outer shell of a bike helmet is obviously the first point of impact in an accident. That’s why it’s usually made of tough materials like polycarbonate or fiberglass, to prevent the penetration of sharp and high speed objects, as well as to withstand hard knocks and abrasions from daily use.

Most importantly, it helps distribute the force of impact over a larger area in a motorcycle accident. This prevents that intense, concentrated force from a collision from affecting a single point in your skull and head, and reduces the risk of skull fractures or localized injuries. 

For this simple reason, you should always purchase a new motorcycle helmet, as you will never know what kind of damage or shock a second hand bike helmet might have undergone, thus significantly reducing its protective power.

3. Impact-Absorbing Liner

A tough outer shell may help against hard knocks, but just like an egg shell, it isn’t enough of a safety barrier between your head and the gravel road or pavement to keep you safe.

That’s why all motorcycle helmets are also designed with an impact-absorbing liner, typically made of expanded polystyrene (EPS) foam. 

While the outer shell might bend and warp, the impact-absorbing liner compresses upon impact, cushioning your head, and effectively absorbing and dispersing the energy generated during a crash. 

By absorbing some of the impact force, the helmet (and this liner in particular) minimizes the transfer of force to your head and brain in a great way. The dense inner layer also absorbs the shock and inertia created, when the helmet stops and the head continues moving from the impact. It’s sort of like a form of bubble wrap for your head, to prevent the contents from rattling too much!

Tip!  Motorbike helmet manufacturers like Arai and Shoei recommend that motorcyclists should change their helmets every 5 years, even if the outer shell has no damage. This is because the foam inside the helmet might have degraded over time, and might not offer the same level of protection as a newly manufactured helmet.
 

4. Retention System

Needless to say, a motorcycle helmet can only protect you if it remains on your head in a crash. 

Whether you’re wearing a full face helmet, or an open face helmet, the chin straps and fasteners are designed as part of this mechanism to keep your helmet on at all times, and not fly off in a high-impact situation.

So it’s crucial that your chin straps and fasteners are secure when you’re riding. When properly positioned, you should be able to put just two fingers between your chin and the strap, and not more than that. 

An important point to note is that the only approved type of chin strap system allowed in Singapore is the double D-ring attachment system, so make sure that you are choosing a motorcycle helmet that meets Singapore’s safety standards.
The best protection is a bike helmet that fits you well and sits comfortably and snug on your head. There shouldn’t be any pressure points around the head, and the helmet should not be too loose or too tight.

5. Motorcycle Helmet Visor

For day to day use, your motorcycle helmet visor will help you manage wind resistance, dust, fog, and generally help keep your visibility optimal while on the roads. For extra safety, you can consider getting a motorcycle helmet with a built-in sun visor, or wear sunglasses while riding to reduce sun glare.

In the event of a crash, however, your helmet visor also serves as an essential shield to protect your face and eyes against flying debris, road particles, and other road hazards that can cause injury.
That is why your helmet visor or face shield is also designed to be an impact-resistant barrier against foreign object penetration, and also disperses the force of impact over a larger area, providing an additional layer of protection.

Check this out!  Here’s a really interesting animation to explain how motorcycle helmets keep you safe, produced by American motorcycle helmet company SNELL. While their helmets are not currently approved for use in Singapore, the logic still stands!

The Importance of Singapore PSB Approved Helmets

As a responsible motorcyclist, you should always protect yourself while riding. In Singapore, you can be issued a penalty of $150 and 3 demerit points for failing to wear or not securely wearing a protective helmet. So, you should invest in a good bike helmet that meets all the crucial requirements and safety standards. 

It’s also worth noting that in Singapore, motorbike riders caught wearing non-approved helmets could face severe penalties. The current law states that first-time offenders could be jailed for up to three months and/or fined up to S$500. If you’re caught a second time, you could be jailed for up to six months and/or fined up to S$1,000. And the Singapore government is even seeking to impose stiffer penalties on the importing or selling of non-approved helmets.

The safety requirements for motorcyclists’ protective helmets is based on the Singapore Standard 9 : 2014, which is listed by the PSB (Singapore’s Productivity and Standards Board), now renamed SPRING (Standards, Productivity and Innovation Board) Singapore.

Based on this, testing of motorcycle helmets involving various methods is conducted by a German testing, inspection and certification firm, known as TUV SUD. 

This organization is responsible for testing the protective padding material, motorcycle shell structure integrity, helmet visor and the effectiveness of the retention system that keeps the helmet snug on the rider’s head. 

If approved, a sticker with a blue tick and the words “Batch Inspected” is affixed at the back of the helmet to certify that it’s compliant with the safety standards and approved for use in Singapore.

(Source: channelnewsasia.com)

Important!  ONLY PSB approved helmets with this approved sticker are legal for use in Singapore. Helmets that have passed international testing such as the ECE (Economic Commission for Europe), DOT (US Department of Transportation), and SNELL safety standards are not recognized in Singapore as approved helmets.
 

Never Ride Without a Helmet!

Knowing what you now know about how the various design components in your motorcycle helmet help keep you safe and alive, you should remember to never ride without a (/an approved) helmet!

However, it’s possible that bike accidents may still occur even if you take all the necessary precautions to avoid the fatal risk of skull damage and traumatic brain injury. If you are involved in a motorcycle accident resulting in serious injury – whether sustained by yourself or another road user – that’s when your motorcycle insurance is going to help. That’s why it is important to choose the right bike insurance cover and protection to cater for unexpected incidents.

Article Credits: DirectAsia

'Really good-hearted' motorcyclist gets off bike to help woman with walker and trolley cross road

Another Good Samaritan has been spotted in Singapore.

A motorcyclist who got off his bike to help an elderly woman with a walker and a trolley cross the road is earning kudos online for his good deed.

Stomper Siva was moved by the video of the incident he saw on TikTok.

"A really good-hearted person who helped a elderly person," said the Stomper.

"That's the true spirit of Singaporeans."

In the 86-second video posted by TikTok user Akasha on Friday (Aug 25), a man wearing a motorcycle helmet is standing next to a parked motorcycle and an elderly woman at a corner at the junction of Kim Pong Road and Tiong Bahru Road.

When the light changed to their favour, both crossed the road with the man pushing a shopping trolley and the woman using a walker.

After reaching the other side of the road, they stopped to wait for the light to change to cross another road. The video ends right after the light changed.

The video appears to be taken by a motorist waiting at the traffic junction and has more than 49,000 views.

The subtitle in Chinese said: "There is warmth everywhere in the world. God bless the good."

Netizens lauded the motorcyclist for his compassion.

"Brother, I salute you" is a typical comment.

But one commenter wondered: "How was the aunty going to push the trolley and use the walker later after the rider left?"

Good question.

Article Credits: tnp.straitstimes.com

Act gone wrong in China as stunt rider in ‘globe of death’ turns into ball of flames 

A normally fiery motorcycle show in China went out in a blaze, but not one of glory, leaving one of the performers injured.

On Tuesday, two stunt riders were performing their “globe of death” routine in the Happy Valley theme park in Wujinshan Forest Park in Shanxi, China.

The “globe of death” is a popular circus and carnival stunt involving motorcyclists looping horizontally or vertically within a spherical steel cage at breakneck speed.

In videos that were widely circulated on the Internet, both riders are seen circling the globe in choreographed unison, riding past each other at speed, with their bikes emanating sparks constantly.

But after completing a number of revolutions, one of the riders appears to lose his grip on the cage’s walls and falls to the bottom of the globe. His bike then bursts into flames, while his stunt partner continues looping around the globe, possibly to avoid the flames.

According to local media Sohu News, members of the audience were shocked, with some calling for help for the riders. Some staff members tried putting out the flames with a fire extinguisher, while others attempted to open the gate to the globe.

On Wednesday, Jinzhong city’s culture and tourism bureau said a theme park performer suffered injuries to his leg and arm as a result of the incident, adding that he was taken to hospital without elaborating on the extent of the injuries.

Investigations are ongoing to find out the cause of the accident.

A theme park-goer who was at Happy Valley on Tuesday said the motorcycle performance had started at around 4pm, and many had received complimentary entry tickets from the park as part of a promotional drive.

“At first I thought (the fire) was a special effect, but I realised it was a real fire when the venue was filled with the smell of smoke,” the unnamed visitor told Jimu News, adding that the accident happened about two minutes into the act.

The globe of death performance at Happy Valley had resumed on Wednesday.

 

Article Credits: tnp.straitstime

 

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10+1 BRILLIANT MOTORCYCLE TV ADVERTS THAT WILL DEFINITELY BRIGHTEN UP YOUR DAY

What does it take for an advert to stand out and make us sit up and take notice? We've compiled these 10+1 Motorcycle Adverts that either made us laugh, groan or feel the feels.

DirectAsia: Best Motorcycle Rain Gear to Stay Safe in Wet Weather

Open skies, open road, wind in your hair – motorcycle riding is a thrill any day and in any weather. Well, almost any weather. When the skies above turn dark and unleash their watery fury, your joyride can quickly turn into a damp disaster – and a dangerous one.

Even though Singapore is mostly known as a sunny isle, if you live here you’ll know that every other day can be peppered with raindrops; not to mention, the dreaded “monsoon months” towards the end of the year. Therefore, it’s best to be prepared at all times and invest in the right motorcycle gear against rain.

In this blog, we’ll discuss the best motorcycle rain gear you should invest in, the features you should look out for, and how to choose the right fit. The right investment will help you defy the rain gods and ensure you always reach your destination warm and dry and more importantly, safe! 
 

Benefits of Good Motorcycle Rain Gear

But first things first, before we even get to purchasing anything, let’s consider why it’s even worth investing in motorcycle rainwear.

Top 4 Must-Have Motorcycle Gear Against Wet Weather 

There are many different options when it comes to rain gear, but here are four waterproof motorcycle gear we think you should have in your arsenal when it comes to battling Singapore’s rainy weather:

1. Motorcycle rain suit
2. Motorcycle gloves
3. Visor insert
4. Motorcycle boots

Now, let’s dive into each of them and what’s most vital to consider when making your purchasing decisions.

1. Motorcycle Rain Suit

Your motorcycle rain suit will be your main armour against riding in the rain, so looking for one with the best protection is key.

Two-piece vs One-piece

Rain suits come in the one-piece option, much like a onesie with a full body length zipper, and a two-piece option, made up of a rain jacket and pants.

Many motorcycle riders in Singapore recommend a two-piece option over the one-piece for a variety of reasons:

Material choice

When selecting the best motorcycle rain gear, material choice is a crucial factor that determines its effectiveness and overall performance in wet conditions. What’s important to note is also that good rainwear is never made out of just one type of material, but a range of materials that each serve their own purpose.

Here are some key considerations to help you pick the right materials for your motorcycle rain gear:

Waterproofness: The primary requirement for rain gear is its ability to keep you dry. Look for materials that are explicitly designed to be waterproof or water-resistant. Common waterproof materials include nylon, polyester, and Gore-Tex®. These fabrics have a special coating or membrane that prevents water from penetrating the fabric while allowing moisture vapour to escape, keeping you dry and comfortable.
 

Top tip!  “Weatherproof” and “waterproof” are not the same thing. Weatherproof gear will only protect you from light rain for a short period of time, but a truly waterproof motorcycle rain suit should have a moisture IP rating of 6 and above to protect you even when you’re riding in a heavy downpour.

The material itself is one thing, but don’t forget to pay attention to all the potential holes water can seep in through. Look for reinforced or heat-sealed seams and adjustable Velcro fasteners that help seal wrist and ankle openings, and ensure that the neck or collar area is also covered to prevent rain from getting in. Rainwear jackets with a hood are a good way to stay dry, and those fastened by Velcro are even better since they allow for easy removal if the rain stops and the sun comes back out.
 

Breathability: While it's important for rainwear to keep water out, it's equally vital for it to allow moisture and sweat to escape. Look for breathable poly-mesh linings that allow for good air circulation. This helps prevent the buildup of sweat and condensation inside your rain gear, enhancing your overall comfort and reducing the chances of overheating.
 

Flexibility: Your rain gear should allow for freedom of movement while riding. Look for materials that are flexible and offer a good range of motion. Avoid stiff or restrictive fabrics that may hinder your ability to manoeuvre comfortably. Stretch panels or gussets in critical areas, such as the shoulders, elbows, and knees, can enhance flexibility and ensure a better fit.
 

Reflectivity: Since visibility is crucial, especially in rainy conditions, always try to choose motorcycle gear with highly reflective elements.

Packability: Your rain suit will be stowed away on your motorcycle when it’s not raining, so you may also want to look for lightweight materials that can easily be folded or compressed into a compact size.
 

How to ensure a good fit

Size up: Don’t forget that your rain suit needs to be loose enough to fit over the clothing you’re already wearing. Sizing up at least one size bigger will allow more room for you to manoeuvre easily without feeling constricted. If the motorcycle rain jacket feels tight when your elbows are bent, your movement might be restricted, which is highly dangerous. And while it may look more flattering for your figure, your rain pants cannot afford to be too fitting as well, or it will cause difficulty climbing on and off your bike. Tight rainwear also increases chafing and abrasion, wear and tear, and will ultimately reduce the life of your investment.
 

Try it on: Where possible, try your rain suit on in a store, and put it through the test with a whole range of motions to ensure it is not restrictive in any way. It’s even better if you can try it out with the rest of your motorcycle gear such as helmet, gloves, and boots, to ensure compatibility with your existing riding gear.
 

Read reviews: If you’re purchasing online, make sure you read all the customer reviews, not only for quality and protectability, but also to see how different sizes fit other customers. If there are reviews that state “M was a good fit for me, I’m usually a UK 10” then it gives you a good guide for your own size reference. 
 

2. Motorcycle Gloves

The choice to wear motorcycle gloves is quite a subjective one, as it depends on your personal comfort and gripability. If you have a better grip on your motorcycle’s handlebars without gloves, even despite a heavy downpour, then by all means, go glove-less! If, however, the cold from the rain affects your comfort level and control, then getting the right motorcycle gloves is a definite must.

Consider these three factors when looking to purchase a good pair of waterproof motorcycle gloves for optimal performance and protection:
 

1. Traction: Control and handling is everything, especially in wet weather conditions. Gloves with grippy palms or fingers with features like silicone or rubberized grips can significantly enhance your handling.
2. Fit: There’s a reason for the phrase “fits like a glove.” Finding the right fit of motorcycle gloves for you has to be exactly just like Prince Charming looking for his perfect-footed Cinderella. Your gloves cannot be too loose, as they need to fit snugly to ensure natural finger movement; and they also cannot not be too tight or restrictive, otherwise it can affect the accuracy or speed of your reaction. Make sure you test these before purchasing, or if buying online, make sure there is a return policy so you can always return a pair that doesn’t feel “perfect” for your hands.
3. Insulation: Yes, you want the gloves to be thermally insulated to keep your hands warm even when riding in heavy rain, but you also don’t want them to feel stuffy and sweaty in Singapore’s humid weather if it’s just a slight drizzle. It’ll be up to you to find that sweet spot that feels just right. We promise we won’t judge if you’re waving your gloved hands in front of an air-conditioner in the shop! 
    

3. Visor Insert

The problem with rainy weather in a humid climate like Singapore is, it makes the inside of your motorcycle helmet visor fog up easily. To prevent this from happening, you can purchase an anti-fogging visor insert. Riders say that once you have tried riding with one, you’ll never go back, so it is definitely worth the investment!

There are different sorts of visor inserts – some can be applied to the inside of your visor, while others need to be locked in place with a pin (commonly known as a Pinlock visor). To explore the options and find one that is the most compatible with your existing helmet, it’s best to check out local motorcycle shops and official dealers.

No matter what sort of visor insert you go for, make sure that your motorcycle helmet, visor and inserts are all up to the PSB Singapore Standard 9 : 2014 safety requirement.
 

4. Motorcycle Boots

It may be tempting to ride in the rain with slippers a.k.a. flip flops, but they simply scream “safety hazard”! Imagine riding on the PIE (expressway) and your flip flop flies off and hits another motorist in the face!

For your and other motorists’ safety and protection, wearing proper protective gear such as motorcycle boots is always better, whether or not it rains. Motorcycle riding boots also protect your ankles much more than any other type of motorcycle shoes.

Look for a pair of motorbike boots that are waterproof and breathable, high cut enough so your rain pants cover the top of them, and that come with anti-slip soles for better grip on damp roads.

Other than that, your choice in waterproof motorcycle boots will come down to style and design, so go ahead and purchase something that will make you feel stylish and comfortable!

Stay Dry & Stay Safe with The Right Motorcycle Rain Gear

Staying dry while motorcycle riding in wet weather isn’t just about avoiding discomfort or to prevent arriving at your 9am work meeting soaking wet.

In many cases, staying dry goes hand in hand with staying safe, which should always be top of mind whenever you get on that motorcycle.

Remember, safety should never be compromised, and while investing in high quality motorcycle rain gear comes with quite some expenditure, it is paramount to keeping your riding experience comfortable, and keeping you alive.

Purchasing them is one thing, though, the other is to never leave home without them! Make sure you stow your rainwear in your motorcycle compartment, or in a carry-on bag that you take along with you every time you ride.

We also recommend that you try to stop at a safe place to put on your rain gear – if it suddenly starts to pour while you’re riding – or ensure that you signal the other road users if you’re forced to stop by the shoulder of the highway.

Final Thoughts

But, no matter how prepared you can be with the right motorcycle gear on, accidents can still happen due to poor weather conditions and wet roads. So it's crucial to invest in good motorcycle insurance in the case of an unavoidable accident when it rains. DirectAsia provides three motorcycle insurance cover types to choose from, including a Comprehensive plan that covers your motorcycle if it gets damaged in a flood due to heavy rains. You can also add on Optional Benefits that includes 24-hour breakdown assistance in case your motorcycle gets impaired in the rain.

Credits to : Direct Asia

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN PURCHASING THE IDEAL MOTORCYCLE HELMET FOR YOU

Choosing the correct motorcycle is a tricky task. With so many styles on offer, it can be all too easy to just buy the one you think looks the coolest. But how do you know that’s the right product for you?

 

But how do you know that the lid you're looking at in the warm, dry and well-lit shop is the best one for you – after all, there is a vast array of different helmets in myriad shapes and sizes to suit all budgets in all manner of jazzy shades. 

However, a helmet needs to be the right one for you for it to do its job properly if and when it needs to... so heed these tips to ensure your helmet protects that precious head of yours.

 

How much should I spend on a crash helmet?

The way I’ve always bought lids (and I’ve bought more than I’ve got for free before you say it) is to go for the best suited, and the highest quality item I can afford.

Think about it like this: You wouldn’t spend months and months saving £5000 to buy a car to ferry the family around but then go and spend half that on a rusty wreck would you? Lids are the same. Your brain is a magic sack of synapses and voodoo, don’t do it a disservice and buy the best you can afford - without starving the family!

 

 

 

How do I choose the correct type of lid?

The first thing to do is work out the type of riding you do, this will define the construction of the lid you should use. The following examples should give you an idea of the type of helmet that will suit your needs.

 

 

What’s a full-face crash helmet?

If much of your time is going to be spent on dual-carriageways or motorways, a full-face lid is probably the way to go. A full-face helmet completely covers the back and sides of your head and has a chin bar that covers your lower face. Most will have a visor that protects your eyes from dust, water, stones and wildlife that could otherwise cause you harm.

If you want to do trackdays, a full face lid is a must and companies will insist on these before they let you out on track.

Pros:

• Offers the most protection
• Most are water-tight
• Keeps your face warmer in winter

Cons:

• Visors can fog up in cold/wet weather
• Must be removed in shops, garages and petrol stations

 

What’s a modular crash helmet?

A modular helmet (also known as a flip-front) is a full-face lid that has a hinge – normally near your ear – that lets the chin bar flip up over the top of your head, allowing your face to be seen. They’re handy as most businesses allow flip-front lids to be worn when carrying out transactions, petrol stations and so on. They also allow you to have conversations with people without shouting, handy if you are riding in a group and stop to chat at a junction.

Some modular helmets are homologated (tested) in such a way that you can ride safely with the chin bar in the up (or flipped) position. If you own a modular lid that isn’t homologated to this standard, you should never ride with it in that manner. For some modular helmets, the chin bar forms a structural part of the shell, and when not locked in the down position, the helmet’s ability to protect you in a crash is massively reduced.

Pros:

• Offers a good level of protection
• Keeps your face warmer in winter
• Can be flipped up to talk to people or enter businesses

Cons:

• Some flip-fronts can whistle at speed due to the design of the shell
• Visors can still fog up in cold/wet weather
• Sometimes look bulkier and less sleek than a normal full-face lid

 

What is an open-faced helmet?

Open-faced (sometimes called jet-style) lids are exactly that, lids that have no chin-bar and have a large opening at the front that makes your whole face visible. The lack of a chin bar means protection is reduced, especially if the incident involves tumbling or sliding down the road on your front. That said, they do have their benefits and some people go their whole life using open-faced helmets without a problem.

Best suited to short rides at low speed in fine weather. Sometimes the choice to get an open-faced lid is more about the type of bike you ride, with customs, classics and retro scooters all seeming to attract the open-face helmet rider. And it works, on most of those styles of bike, a full-face looks a bit naff. In the same way that riding a 1000cc superbike through town with an open-faced lid on would look a little odd.

Pros:

• Great for summer and warm weather rides
• Looks great if you have the right bike to go with it
• Great peripheral vision and no chin bar to obscure the dash
• Can be worn in shops etc

Cons:

• Less protection than a full-face product
• Limited to warm weather use
• Flies, stones and other gunk can hit your face
• Goggles are required above 40mph which can fog in adverse weather

 

What is a motocross helmet?

Motocross or off-road lids are generally angular in appearance with a prominent chin bar, pointy sides and a large peak. The shape of the lid and the peak is designed to deflect branches and foliage away from the face or over the top of your head when riding off-road.

If riding through the brush in a peaked lid, dipping your head when riding through branches and bushes can help push them over your head, instead of them hitting your face, and can also catch the muddy roost from a bike ahead before it reaches your face!

Dedicated off-road lids require goggles to be worn as most don’t have a visor which adds an extra layer of complication and cost. On the plus side, they are often lighter than road helmets which takes a load off your neck.

Off-road riding is hard work and because of this, off-road lids tend to be airy and allow lots of air movement around your face. Great for hammering up technical trails – not so good on the M40.

Pros:

• The airy interior makes for comfortable trail riding
• Specifically designed for the purpose
• Interiors are easy to clean
• Off-road lids are generally brightly coloured which helps visibility
• Normally of lighter construction than road helmets

Cons:

• Not watertight
• Most require goggles
• Airy interior rules out long miles at speed
• Winter riding in an off-road lid is only for the hardy

 

What is an ADV helmet?

An ADV (adventure) helmet is also known as a dual-sport helmet. Think of it as a cross between a full-face and motocross lid. They’re designed to provide the comfort and weatherproofing of a road-biased lid but give you some of the design touches that make off-road riding that little bit easier.

ADV lids include a visor and some even work with goggles if the visor is removed. They still tend to be more spacious inside, but most are fitted with close-able vents and chin skirts; to keep things comfortable if it’s chilly.

An ADV helmet still has a peak but it’s designed to cause the rider less discomfort at speed. Cutaways and vents mean motorway cruising won't cause neckache in the way a motocross lid could.

Pros:

• Off-road style but full-face comfort
• Peak works well to deflect glare on the motorway
• Airy design helps prevent misting in bad weather

Cons:

• Can become uncomfortable above motorway speeds
• Peaks can whistle and rattle if not fitted properly

 

How do you know if your motorcycle helmet fits properly?

There are two very important reasons to ensure your lid fits properly. Firstly; a properly fitting lid provides maximum protection in a crash. Secondly; a lid that fits properly will be more comfortable and that helps you to maintain concentration.

The best way to ensure a comfortable and well fitted helmet is to get to a shop or a show and try them on. This is the best way to check that the lid fits the size of your head and the shape of your head. If that’s not possible you can always stick to what you know; if Shoei has worked for you in the past, there’s a good chance they’re still the best bet for you.

 

 

Another way to get an idea of the fit is to measure your bonce! Take a dressmakers tape measure and wrap it around your head. The tape should pass just over your ears, looping down around the back of your head slightly and then run up and across your forehead, just above your eyebrows. If you don’t have a soft tape measure you can use some string and then measure that. Most helmet manufacturers have a sizing guide on their site that you can use to get an idea of your size. It’s not foolproof as it doesn’t consider your head shape, but it should give you a good idea of the size to go for.

When your lid is on, do up the chin strap and tighten it until you can just slip one finger between the strap and your chin. Now take both hands a try and push the chin bar (or the sides of the lid if it’s an open face) up, as if you were trying to remove it. The helmet should only move slightly, if your face begins to stick out below the chin bar or if the helmet comes off altogether, that’s not the lid for you.

 

 

Now grab the back edge of the helmet with both hands and try and pull it off your head forwards. Again, there should be negligible amounts of movement and if the lid comes off – it’s not for you.

Next, with the helmet still done up, place your hands on either side of the helmet and try and turn it left and right. You should just have a small amount of movement, if the sides of the visor openings begin to obscure your vision or the lid freely turns more than an inch it’s possibly not the size or internal shape you need.

If you need any more proof that a snug fitting lid is important, look at the riders in the MotoGP and BSB. Most will have their cheeks pushed upwards and inwards by the padding in the interior lining. This is an extreme example but goes to show that the better the fit, the more protection you have.

 

Article Credits: visordown

 

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HOW TO CLEAN YOUR MOTORCYCLE HELMET

Cleaning your helmet is something we all think we can take care of, but do you really know how to do it properly? If you’re nodding your head smugly while reaching for the furniture polish and an old rag, think again. We’ll show you everything you need to know to maintain the life and looks of the most important piece of your riding clobber this summer.

Before we begin you will need:

• An old toothbrush
• A soft nailbrush
• Some cotton buds
• Four lint-free cloths
• A non-abrasive sponge
• Cleaning products

Step 1: Prep

First things first. Wash your hands, make sure all of your cloths are clean, the last thing you want to do is damage the paintwork on your helmet because a piece of dirt was hidden in a cloth. Lay out your tools on a clean work-surface, the kitchen side should do it. Take pictures of the inside and outside of your helmet if you need to, these will help when you are trying to put the thing back together again.

Step 2: Strip

Strip down your helmet. We’ve used an Arai for this feature but the same rules apply to any make of helmet. Carefully remove anything that you know you can remove, if you are unsure consult the manual that came with your helmet. If like 99.9% of bikers you lobbed it in the bin get on the phone to the helmet manufacturer, ask for the technical department and find out what you need to do to strip it down. Don’t be too heavy handed, if it feels like it’s about to snap, it probably is.

Step 3: Bare essentials

If you are confident you can unscrew and remove base plates etc, do so. Lay out what you have removed in the order you need to put them back in. Don’t get carried away and strip the thing down to nothing, just remove what you need.

 

 

 

 

Step 4: Get wet

Most helmets have at least removable cheek pads, some will have fully removable linings. Once removed, soak them in warm water with a small amount of PH neutral baby shampoo. Massage all the parts thoroughly and then rinse. You’ll be horrified at the black slime that comes out. Lay a towel in the bottom of the sink or bath, rest your helmet on the towel and shower it out with warm water. Get the helmet soaked, add a little of the shampoo and work it into everything. Rinse thoroughly with cold water at least five times. Now put the helmet and any wet parts in front of a cool fan for half a day. Don’t be tempted to use a hairdryer or the airing cupboard.

Step 5: Visor

Clean your visor with a non-abrasive cloth. Soak it in warm water and rub some mild soap solution into it. Use your fingers to remove the dirt if you can, it will reduce the chances of scratching the surface of your visor. Allow the visor to drip dry naturally, stood up. Take care with your visor if it has an anti-fog coating. Once dry carefully re-apply any anti fog coating.

 

Step 6: Clean

Clean the shell of your helmet with a non-abrasive cloth and some mild soap solution. Avoid using petroleum based cleaning products, they will eat into the lifespan of your helmet. Again, use warm water and be careful not to be too heavy handed. Use the cotton buds to get into the vents if you need to. Use the toothbrush or nailbrush in the hard to reach places, repeat the process two or three times. Cover up small stone chips with touch up pens designed for cars. This won’t completely remove the chip but will disguise it and will prevent water ingress, which will degrade the quality of your helmet over time.

 

 

Step 7: Lube

Lubricate the working parts of your visor mechanism with silicon grease, remember to wipe off any excess to prevent further damaging your helmet. You also need to lubricate the seal around your visor aperture. Do this sparingly and wipe away any excess.

Step 8: Re-assemble

Re-assemble your helmet (carefully). Take your time to reposition your visor properly. Baseplates on most helmets are adjustable, treat it like suspension. Try little and often until you get it right. Clean and replace side pods/covers. Ensure they are all properly reconnected to the shell, if you have any screws left over you have definitely done something wrong.

 

 

Step 9: Polish

Once rebuilt, polish the whole helmet with a suitable polish, do the visor as well. A mild abrasive is okay to use on the helmet. Lay it on fairly thick, leave to dry and then buff. A good layer of polish on the shell and visor will help water to bead and roll off easier in the rain.

Article Credits: visordown

 

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TOP TEN THINGS NO BIKER SHOULD EVER DO... BUT PROBABLY HAVE

Whether new to biking or not, you may benefit from reading these top ten things no biker should ever do…

2. Use a disc lock without a reminder

A disc lock reminder adds a little extra inconvenience to locking up your bike, especially if it’s cold and wet and you’re in a hurry – and it’s easy to tell yourself you don’t need it.

You do. Maybe not every time you unlock your bike, but we promise at some point you’ll be distracted and won’t remember that lock until it wallops into your brake caliper as you try to pull away.

If you’re lucky it might only be embarrassing. If you’re not, it could cost you hundreds for a new disc and caliper. You could even get hurt – and it could all be prevented by a £2 plastic coil with one end looped around the lock and the other around the handlebar.

3. Ride at anyone else’s pace

He got around that corner, so physics says I can too, right?

Not necessarily, because a crucial variable is ignored in that hypothesis: the rider.

He may be well within his comfort zone, while any sense of confidence you’re experiencing is vicarious and apt to take flight if startled.  

With a lifetime’s experience, there will still be some riders that you are unable to keep up with, and you don’t have to, because you’ll never be at your best when you’re over-reaching your ability.

4. Panic brake

And here’s what can go wrong when newish riders push too hard too soon. It’s such a textbook error that an experienced rider will probably be able to tell you what went wrong even though you may not be sure (and examples of it, like the one above, are all over YouTube).

You were taking a corner. Suddenly your brain decided you were going too fast and told your fingers to grab the front brake. As a result, you went off-road or into the opposing lane, either because you locked the front and crashed or because braking caused the radius of your turn to increase.

Don’t grab the front brake. Unless you’ve got cornering ABS, it makes a crash more likely, not less. If you can’t train your brain to resist the temptation, slow down until you can.

5. Get too cold

Everything’s more difficult when you’re really cold, including concentrating and spotting hazards in good time.

Twenty years ago, perhaps, we had an excuse. With the riding gear that’s available now, we don’t.

A £100 heated vest will help make even sub-zero motorway rides entirely bearable. Warm and waterproof textiles are available to suit a range of budgets (although Gore-Tex probably remains the most reliable option for keeping you dry).

Heated grips will make any winter ride so much nicer.

It’s all no-going-back stuff – once you’ve had it, you’ll never be without it.

6. Assume anyone has seen you

There’s a bike somewhere in the picture above. Okay, so the Department for Transport edited the road safety image to make the bike even harder to spot.

The fact is, you’re really looking for it – and car drivers are not really looking for you.

Hi-vis kit does no harm but there’s no substitute for riding like you’re the invisible man on a dark night.

7. Ride when angry, stressed or upset

When Yamaha released this promo video for the Tracer 700, some Visordown readers commented that riding after an argument probably wasn’t to be recommended. And while we don’t think Yamaha intended the video as road safety advice, we sort of agree.

Having a bad day? A really bad one? Then think about not getting on your bike. Feeling angry, stressed or otherwise upset can lead to bad decisions, as well as effecting concentration. Motorcycles are as safe as you make them. Make yours safer by putting someone else in control for the day, like a bus driver.

8. Take things personally

Some drivers resent motorcyclists slicing through traffic, blind to the fact that by doing so we’re reducing their journey time as well as ours.

So they’ll try things like sticking to the car in front, to deny you any gap to pull into should you need one.

Let them. Back off, pull in behind and then overtake them and a dozen other cars at the next safe opportunity.

The battle to stop motorcyclists filtering is one that angry driver can never win – but which you could lose by making it a personal stand-off.

9. Join the back of the queue

Quite apart from easing congestiong for everyone, there’s another reason why filtering is a good idea. It’s when moving traffic suddenly slows that some numpty on his phone is most likely to plough into the vehicle in front.

If you’re filtering through the queues instead of at the back, it won’t be you that bears the brunt.

10. Don't be that armchair bore

You know every bike ever made, and you’ve probably ridden most of them. When you go for a ride with your mates, you have to stop and wait for them every couple of miles. Knee down? You’ve had your elbow down, and you once scraped the cylinder head on an R1200GS.

You can precisely diagnose any serious mechanical issue from 1,000 yards and probably fix it before lunch. 

In short, you have nothing new to learn about motorcycling.

Wrong.

Like every good hobby, motorcycling attracts some people who are determined to be the world authority on it.

You’re not the world authority but you have become an armchair bore. Just ride.

Article Credits: visordown

How to: Change your motorcycle engine oil

The oil in your engine is its lifeblood: it lubricates the moving parts and stops them wearing or destroying themselves; it helps keep everything cool, particularly on ‘air’-cooled engines; and it removes harmful deposits and helps prevent them from building up again.

Oil eventually deteriorates as a result of heat cycles as well as its intended purpose of carrying dirt and debris away from key parts of the engine, and so it needs changing regularly to make sure it can keep doing its job. But changing it is a very straightforward process and is well within the scope of the average home mechanic.

There are different types of oil; mineral, semi-synthetic and fully synthetic. The former is derived entirely from crude oil and is well suited to lower-specification engines that don’t run at high revs. Semi-synthetic uses a mixture of mineral and synthetic oils to add a range of qualities that help offer higher performance for more complicated engines.

Fully synthetic is, as the name suggests, man-made and can be tailored to give whatever qualities are required but is the most expensive option of the three.

There are then several identifiers for the compatibility of oil for your bike. The first is the American Petroleum Institute which rates oil for performance, the ‘higher’ the letter, the better. So, for example, an oil rated API SN means it is certified for a spark-ignited engine (the S) and performance level N, which is higher than M or L.

The second rating is the Japanese Automobile Standards Organisation (JASO) rating that indicates whether an oil is suitable for a bike with a wet clutch – which runs in the same engine oil – or not. An MA rating means oil that will maintain the engine and transmission and allow the wet clutch to operate effectively.

Oils also have a viscosity rating expressed by numbers and letters as part of the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) rating. For example, SAE 10W30 means the oil works in ambient temperatures down to -25°C (the number before the W for ‘Winter’ is the coldest working temperature) up to 30°C. Note these are ambient, not the engine, temperatures and the higher the numbers, the higher the temperatures.

You may also see 4T and 2T on the bottle – this means they are designed for four-stroke and two-stroke engines respectively.

Here’s how to change your oil and keep your engine happy.

Step 1:

Look in your owner’s handbook or workshop manual; these should tell you the specification of oil you need and the quantity. Get yourself online and order the necessary quantity as well as the relevant replacement oil filter and a new washer for the drain plug.

Step 2:

Run the engine for a short while to warm the oil up but not get it too hot. Warming it up will help it drain so as much of the old oil comes out as possible. Place a drain tray underneath the drain plug and, having put a pair of protective gloves on (old oil is fairly unpleasant stuff), loosen the drain plug and remove it by hand.

TIP: While you are undoing it, push it in to get the threads to seal as much as possible and don’t try to remove it until you feel the last thread come loose – this will help prevent warm oil running down your arm. Leave the oil draining for now.

Step 3:

Now you need to think about how you are going to remove the old oil filter. There are two main ways to do this – with a cup-style filter wrench that fits the flats on the filter and drives from a socket handle or a strap (or chain) wrench that tightens onto the filter body as you rotate it to loosen the filter. The choice comes down to personal preference or what’s available for your bike.

Step 4:

The wrench fits over the end of the filter housing and is very easy to use – you locate it like a large socket and use a ratchet or handle to undo it until it is hand tight and you can remove it. Be careful of the oil spill as you do so and lay plenty of rags or paper towels under where it locates, particularly if it is angled downwards as you work on it.

Step 5:

A strap wrench tightens itself on as you rotate it until it grips the filter housing and begins to rotate it until you can again, remove it by hand. These can be useful if access is tight or you can’t get a wrench over the top of the filter and get a handle to it directly.

Step 6:

Once the filter is off the engine, remove it and when convenient, drain its contents into the drain pan that now contains the contents of the engine. Use some carburettor cleaner or degreaser to clean the mounting face ready for the new filter.

Step 7:

Before fitting the new filter, smear a thin layer of oil around the rubber ‘O’ ring - this will help it seal properly. If the filter is mounted directly from the bottom of the engine, you can fill it with new oil to ‘prime’ it. If it isn’t then fit it empty and it will fill when you first run the engine.

Step 8:

Fit the new filter to the threaded section where the old one was removed from. Tighten it as per the instructions in the owner’s or workshop manual – this may be a torque value or a specific process.

Step 9:

Before you refit the drain plug so you can refill the engine, have a look at it to see whether there is evidence of worrying wear – metal particles, for example. If not, give it a clean and remove the old washer, replacing it with a new one.

Step 10:

Now refit the drain plug and tighten it to the relevant torque figure, as per the owner’s or workshop manual.

Step 11:

It’s now time to refill the engine with lovely clean oil. Using a funnel – to actually get it into the engine – or a measuring jug, either apply a measured quantity, taking into account any you may have already added to the filter before fitting it or fill to a level in the sight glass or on the dipstick, depending on your bike. Make sure the bike is upright and level when checking oil levels.

Step 12:

If filling to a level, check this with the sight-glass or dipstick and fill until you are roughly halfway between the upper and lower marks. Stop, then run the engine for a moment to circulate the oil, then shut off and wait until the level has settled and check again, as per the manual. If necessary, add more to compensate for filling the filter and there you go – job done.

Aricle Credits: motorcyclenews

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Thai man travels 300km with cats in sidecar back to hometown

A Thai man travelled some 300km from Bangkok to Korat with his 11 cats in tow on a motorcycle, attracting praise and “likes” from cat lovers online.  

Choowong Thepkoh, 65, who sells amulets and other knick knacks at flea markets in Bangkok, had travelled to Korat to sell his goods at a popular annual flea market. 

Choowong also hails from Korat, and wanted to bring his “kids,” or his cats, to visit his birthplace.

Facebook page, Kingdom of Tigers – dedicated to cat lovers, and whose followers know of Choowong as an ardent fan of cats – raised funds to buy the man a sidecar motorcycle, so he could travel with his feline friends.

On Friday, March 17, the page also urged its followers to donate cat food to Choowong as he was about to travel to Korat. 

In an interview, Choowong revealed that he left his hometown 26 years ago, and worked in flea markets in and around Bangkok to support himself and the cats that he would adopt over the years. 

All of his cats were strays, he said, and he would often bring them along everywhere he went. 

He also shared their names: Thong Kwak, Thong Ek, Thong K, Thong Daeng, Thong Kam, Thong Heng, Thong Pradab, Si Nuan, Si Som, Si Suay, and Si Baitong.

“Someone once offered to buy Thong Kwak for 20,000 baht ($780), but I refused to sell, fearing that the person would one day become bored of him and abandon him. I want to take care of him until the day he dies.”

Choowong said he was grateful to everyone who supported him and his cats. He received a lot of cat food from people he met along the way.

Article Credits: tnp.straitstimes

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Watch your speed: Top police hotspots of 2022

Before Help Arrives: Being Prepared in the Event of a Motorcycle Accident

During the first few minutes after TJ’s crash, he was woozy and in some pain. Once the adrenaline wore off, his condition became more serious. But without first aid training all we knew to do was call for help. (Photo by the author)

Like it or not, accidents happen. Fortunately, they tend to be rare events, and when they do happen they’re often minor, such as a parking lot tip over that does more harm to our pride than our body or bike. But sometimes accidents are more serious. Sand or gravel may cause us to lose traction. We may overcook a decreasing-radius corner. Or we may have a close encounter with a car or a leaping deer.

As responsible motorcyclists, we owe it to ourselves, our friends and our loved ones to be prepared in case an accident happens. If we’re riding in or near an urban area, then we can usually count on having a cell signal, the ability of first responders to access the scene quickly and the proximity of a hospital. But even in urban areas it could take up to 30 minutes or longer for an ambulance to arrive on the scene.

What should you do until help arrives? And what if the accident happens when you’re riding out in the country or other remote area? Those are exactly the sort of places we love to ride, where we can escape from the city or suburbia to enjoy winding roads and off-the-beaten-path scenery. How would you call for help? And even if you can call for help, how long will it take for an ambulance or helicopter to arrive?

A few years ago, during a dual-sport ride with friends, our buddy TJ crashed his GS on a downhill, landing on his right shoulder. He was woozy and in pain, but he was able to get up, remove his helmet and speak coherently. After a few minutes, TJ told us his fingers were numb, his arm felt cold and he had a history of heart problems. We were lucky. We had a weak cell signal and were able to use my GPS to provide precise coordinates to the 911 dispatcher, and an off-duty paramedic and a nurse happened to be in the area and attended to TJ while we waited for a helicopter. TJ was airlifted to a hospital where he was treated for a dislocated shoulder, a chipped bone in his upper arm and a bruised collarbone. 

We were relieved that first responders were able to provide assistance and evacuation so quickly, but what struck me about that incident was my ignorance of what to do other than dial 911. Recently I completed a weekend-long Wilderness First Aid course put on by NOLS, the National Outdoor Leadership School. Aimed at those who recreate outdoors where emergency medical response can be expected in less than eight hours, the course teaches the Patient Assessment System, basic first aid and how to make  evacuation decisions.

As luck would have it, members of the Pathfinders militia were training in the area, and a nurse and a paramedic from the group attended to TJ until a helicopter arrived. Since help is rarely available in remote areas, it’s good to be prepared with first aid training, a first aid kit and a reliable way to contact first responders. (Photo by the author)

One of the teachers was Dave Craig, a Senior Instructor at NOLS who is a Wilderness EMT as well as a motorcyclist. He enjoys long, exploratory rides on his Suzuki DR650S throughout Arizona and down into Mexico. When I asked Craig how wilderness first aid applies to motorcycling, he said, “When it comes to first response to a motorcycle accident, whether in remote areas or not, there are several important elements. First, secure the scene to prevent further injuries.” This is the first step in the Patient Assessment System (see sidebar below). If the accident occurs on the road or a popular trail, enlist friends or bystanders to control oncoming traffic, and beware of other potential hazards. If the injured rider is trapped under his or her motorcycle, make sure the bike is picked up safely without putting you or others at risk.

“Second, you should be prepared with training and materials to attend to threats to life,” said Craig. “Take a first aid/CPR course and always carry a first aid kit with medical gloves. For the injured rider, first assess the ABCs–Airway, Breathing and Circulation, and check for serious bleeding. Next, evaluate D–Disability; in particular, do you need to protect the spine? And E–Expose any injuries so they can be examined.” This is part of the initial assessment in the Patient Assessment System, which is the first priority after the scene has been secured.

Many believe you should never remove a motorcyclist’s helmet if he or she has been in an accident. However, a full-face helmet’s chinbar covers the rider’s mouth, making it difficult to check airway and breathing. (A flip-up or modular helmet allows a rider’s face to be exposed without removing the helmet.) Also, if the accident occurs in a remote area where it could be an hour or longer until help arrives, removing the helmet allows the rider’s head to be examined for injury and helps keep them cool and comfortable. Whether or not the helmet is removed, ensure that the rider’s head is supported to protect the spine. 

“And third, after completing a thorough patient assessment, you need to have a way to contact emergency services in the areas in which you ride,” Craig said. At a minimum you should carry a cell phone, but a satellite communicator, such as those made by Garmin or SPOT (see Resources), is a great backup because they work anywhere and transmit precise location coordinates to first responders. Be sure to keep your phone and/or communicator in your pocket rather than on your bike in case you and your bike go separate ways in an accident, particularly if you’re riding solo.

Accidents are emotionally charged situations–for the rider(s) involved and for bystanders. If you witness an accident or are one of the first to arrive on the scene, it’s important to stay calm and help keep others calm. Assess the situation before diving in; help secure the scene and act in a thorough, deliberate manner. Just as motorcycle skills training prepares us to be better riders, hands-on first aid training prepares us to act with confidence so we can assist the injured as well as first responders. Always have emergency contact and personal medical information on your person in an easy-to-find location, as well as a first aid kit, a cell phone and, if traveling in remote areas, a satellite communicator.

Roadguardians.org offers an 8-hour Accident Scene Management Bystander Assistance Program for motorcyclists. (Photo by Scott A. Williams)

Patient Assessment System

Scene Size-up

• Identify hazards to self, other rescuers, bystanders, patient.
• Determine mechanism of injury.
• Form a general impression of seriousness.
• Determine the number of patients.
• Protect yourself with body substance isolation (e.g., wear gloves).
  Initial Assessment
• Obtain consent, assess for responsiveness and protect the spine.
• A – Airway: Open the airway; look in the mouth and clear obvious obstructions.
• B – Breathing: Look, listen and feel.
• C – Circulation: Check pulse at the neck; look and sweep body for severe bleeding.
• D – Disability: Decide if further spine protection is needed.
• E – Expose and examine major injuries.

Secondary Assessment

• Head-to-toe examination (look, listen, feel, smell, ask)
• Measurement of vital signs (responsiveness, heart rate, skin, respiration, temperature, pupils)
• Medical history (chief complaint; SAMPLE — Symptoms, Allergies, Medications, Past history, Last intake/output, Events)

Source: “NOLS Wilderness Medicine, 6th Edition” (see Resources below)

Resources

Training

• Accident Scene Management Bystander Assistance Program for motorcyclists; 8-hour course; visit roadguardians.org 
• American Red Cross Adult First Aid/CPR/AED Course; 6-hour course (certification valid for two years); visit redcross.org 
• NOLS Wilderness First Aid Course; 16 hours over two days (certification valid for two years); visit nols.edu
• “NOLS Wilderness Medicine, 6th Edition,” by Ted Schimelpfenig (Chapter 1 covers the Patient Assessment System in detail); $16.95, visit store.nols.edu

First Aid Kits/Supplies

• American Red Cross’ online store sells a variety of first aid kits, supplies and instructional books; visit redcross.org/store
• Singapore Red Cross’ provides training on critical skillsets relating to health, first aid, disaster response, emergency preparedness and more through its humanitarian learning centre, the Singapore Red Cross Academy; visit redcross.sg/get-trained/first-aid.html
• NOLS Med Kits are made by Adventure Medical Kits and range from the basic, 3.7-ounce Med Kit 1.0 ($16.95) to the well-stocked, 25-ounce Med Kit 5.0 ($84.99); resupply packs and individual supplies also available; add a NOLS Wilderness Medicine Pocket Guide for $4.99; visit store.nols.edu

Personal Medical Information

• Smartphones typically have easily accessible medical information and an emergency contact, as well as the ability to dial 911, directly from the home or lock screen. Look up the details for your device and fill in the forms as completely as possible.
• Rescue Facts Emergency Pack, which attaches to apparel or helmet with hook-and-loop, contains a rewritable medical information form so it is easily accessible by first responders; $10, visit aerostich.com

Satellite Communicators

• Garmin makes several products with inReach technology that allows two-way text messaging and S.O.S. signals via the global Iridium satellite network; starting at $349.99 plus required service plan; visit garmin.com 
• SPOT makes one-way (Gen3) and two-way (SPOT X) satellite communicators for sending text messages and S.O.S. signals; starting at $149.99 plus required service plan; visit findmespot.com

BMW Developing Adaptive Cooling Feature For Motorcycles

BMW is developing an adapting cooling system for motorcycles – not to prevent overheating, but to improve aerodynamics, using shutters to close off the radiators when demand for cooling is low. There’s actually nothing new about the idea as many modern cars – including BMWs – use the same system, but this would be a first for a bike.

A BMW patent application has revealed what the brand calls "tilting vehicle having a cooling arrangement with a movable air-guiding device.” The illustrations clearly reveal a cooling system at the front of the radiator. As in cars, where a similar system is used, the idea is to allow sufficient cooling to satisfy a high-performance engine working at full load, but also to provide better aerodynamics when the engine is not being used at its best performance.

Adaptive Cooling is an innovative feature by BMW. The automaker states that this feature makes the vehicle more aerodynamically efficient while proving the engine with the required air intake. While an open grille was always good for the engine in terms of cooling, it caused the radiator to create air resistance and thus render the vehicle less aerodynamically efficient. 

The patent identifies the issue with motorcycle radiators being mounted where they’re exposed to the most airflow possible, which creates a significant aerodynamic obstacle. BMW indicates that the brand will soon employ moveable air guiding devices in its motorcycles that can be opened and closed as per requirements. This feature also aims the fix the issue of ‘oversized cooling arrangements’ in motorcycles. BMW says that the cooling systems of its motorcycles are designed to handle extreme weather and performance conditions making it oversized for everyday use. The radiator in the motorcycles is placed where the airflow is maximum making it a substantial aerodynamic obstacle. 

Most motorcycles use a radiator to cool the engine, but this can create air resistance and inefficiency. BMW has come up with a solution called “active shutters.” It’s like a venetian blind that can open or close in front of the radiator to let in more or less air, depending on how much cooling is needed. 

By redirecting air around the radiator instead of through it, active shutters can reduce drag and make the motorcycle more efficient. 

The sketches featured in the patents show drawings of an adventure style motorcycle and the active shutters’ movement. It could be likely that is a reference to the upcoming R 1300 GS motorcycle featuring this new bit of tech. Since BMW already mass-produces an active grille system for use in millions of cars, translating it to motorcycles shouldn’t prove to be a hugely taxing task if the benefits prove to be as significant as the patent application suggests.

Article Credits: cycleworld and britishmotorcyclists

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15 Safety Tips for Motorcycle Riding in the Rain

[Safety Tips for Motorcycle Riding in the Rain was originally published in American Rider magazine]

The best advice you’ll hear regarding riding in the rain is don’t do it. Bad weather and wet roads raise motorcycle riding to a whole nother level of complexity and—let’s not pussyfoot around it—danger. Now, having said that, there is another side to this. That is, riding in the rain can be an enjoyable, rewarding experience. While you might not actively seek out this kind of fun, you can’t always be sure that a trip that starts with sunny skies will end that way. So, like it or not, let’s deal with riding in the rain. The keys to doing it safely and enjoyably are in the management of three highly variable factors: traction, visibility, and comfort.

Traction
One of the most overlooked improvements in the world of motorcycles over the years is the performance and quality of the tires on which we depend. Today’s touring tires are marvels at accommodating all the various surface, high-mileage, intense-heat, and wet-road conditions that we’re continually up against. Despite all this, they still can’t give you the same degree of traction and confidence on a wet road as they can on a dry one. How you deal with this difference will determine your success in the wet.

Rule number one is, simply, slow down. Generally, your braking distance is increased in the wet. A lower speed will help offset this, plus it reduces your lean angle in turns, which is where wet-road problems often pop up.
Which leads to rule number two: keep it upright. Now don’t get silly on me here. I’m not saying that you slow to the point where turns are taken at a parade pace, but keep in mind the more upright you are, the more weight that is applied perpendicular to mother road, thus increasing the amount of traction available to you. Avoid last-second turns, unnecessary swerves and rude imitations of bad road racers as these will do nothing but impress the EMT with your stupidity.

Rule number three in wrestling with the wet is, read the road. The worst rains of the season are the first ones. As the oily scum has yet to have been washed off, the surface can be particularly treacherous, all the more so at stop signs, tollbooths and in parking lots as these locations are often large drip pans for leaky cars. Subsequent rains serve to wash the surface a bit affording improved traction, but rules number one and number two still apply.

Watch carefully for standing water, those nasty pools that can lead to hydroplaning, which occurs when a layer of water sandwiches between your front tire and the road, resulting in zero traction. Reducing your speed reduces this possibility. (Are we noticing a thread here? Slower is better in the wet.) Rain also has the bad habit of spreading gravel and dirt around where you least enjoy it; watch for this stuff, particularly in rural areas. The best strategy is to assume that every turn is dirty, and ride accordingly.

Visibility

If the rain you’re riding in is overpowering the windshield wipers of passing cars and causing bow waves to form, stop, as the only view you’ll have is a very distorted one through a sheet of water. Get safely off the road and wait it out. The “enjoyable, rewarding experience” I wrote of earlier does not apply here as these conditionsare just too dangerous on a motorcycle. The most common visibility problem is one of a fogged faceshield and/or glasses. The cause of this is, simply, the difference in temperature between the outside air and the inside of your helmet. Your body is a 98-degree heater. Ride in, say, 45-degree weather and that 53-degree difference can mean instant fog. Usually this problem is at its worst when you first start off because the air is still. Get moving and the airflow will usually dissipate the fog. However, that time between still and moving can be dangerous. Combat this problem by using any of the various anti-fog solutions on the market (be sure to also treat the lenses of your glasses), leaving your faceshield slightly open until you’re moving, and waiting till the last moment to put on your helmet.

Once the rain has stopped it doesn’t always mean that the problems have disappeared. Wheel spray from cars and trucks can make it seem to be raining as hard as ever. Continue to keep your distance from other vehicles, and watch for those large puddles that offer up mini-tsunamis.

Comfort

Anything that distracts you is potentially dangerous. In rain conditions that distraction often takes the form of a trickle of cold water that leaks past your collar, chilling your whole body. Make sure that your rain gear fits properly and is in good shape. Cold is a huge distraction and, carried to its extreme, can cause hypothermia that dulls the senses and slows your reaction time. Finding the right combination of rain gear, including a warm jacket and proper pants, boots and gloves can be a hit-or-miss process that requires a bit of experience. Finding out that you’ve made a wardrobe mistake when the rain starts to fall is not fun. Road test your full cold/wet weather gear for fit and comfort in the sun. Part of this test is to have someone turn the hose on you (from above, simulating rain) to check for clothing leaks. The sweat you work up will be worth it.
Properly managing these three factors allows you to concentrate on the road and appreciate the fact that you’ve added another skill set to your riding. That’s when it really becomes an enjoyable, rewarding experience.

Pro Tips
1. Choose a rainsuit that incorporates a breathable membrane such as Gore-Tex, Reissa, Hipora or similar material.
2. Pack your rainsuit on top, not at the bottom of your saddlebag.
3. Watch windshield wipers of oncoming cars to see if it’s raining ahead.
4. Put your rain gear on before the rain starts.
5. Wear bright colors for increased visibility to others.
6. Transfer wallet, keys, and other essentials to waterproof outside pockets.
7. Your windshield should be low enough to look over, not just through.
8. Use four-way flashers in heavy rain or fog.
9. Increase your following distance, and watch for tailgaters.
10. Avoid standing water as it can hide potholes and debris.
11. Check tire pressures periodically. Underinflated tires are more likely to hydroplane.
12. Tap rear brake in advance of normal braking distance to alert followers.
13. Gently apply brakes periodically to wipe rotors of water/mud/debris.
14. Watch out for painted lines, arrows, etc. as they can be particularly slippery.
15. After the ride, don’t pack your rain gear away until after it’s dry.

Article Credits: RiderMagazine.com

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