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Everything posted by jbdoggy

  1. Anyone tried putting LED bulbs for sp yet? Does it burn the wiring or lightset etc?
  2. before turning, signal right....but once go up the ramp left side, signal left. Cos youre stopping on left side so you need to signal left to show pple behind you that youre going to the left side. When moving off, youre coming off your stop & entering main route, so need to signal right to inform pple behind you youre coming bk in....chk bk right & move off Slope always chk away from kerb. So if youre on the right side is chk bk left.
  3. You mean put bike on main stand? Put your foot on the lever of the main stand push it down to the ground. Make sure both legs of the stand are in contact with the ground. Which means the bike is totally vertical & not leaning a bit to the left or right. Hold the bike steady in that position with your left hand on handlebar & right hand on the crash bar. Now press the mainstand harder with your foot & give the crash bar a little tug up while your left hand pull the bike backwards....tadaa mk sure gear is in neutral. Otherwise you wont be able to move the bike at all.
  4. The S1krr is truly a fantastic bike to ride, but im also still happily riding my sp as my workhorse! Best 2b bike imo
  5. @Crazybiker, mine is actually white SP but have repsol green top cowl if thats what youre referring to. Its a new replacement aftr my original white 1 cracked badly after kena buang 1 wet morning. Yes i wear a white hjc open face helmet. Am I the guy you saw? @Gerrard smith When did you overhaul? Was the block & piston brand new? Completed break in process yet? I remember when i just overhauled with brand new block & cylinder, engine was kinda tight/stiff. Getting it beyond 5k revs was a bit difficult at 1st. Had to force it a bit. Brand new block & piston no continous revs beyo
  6. @Crazybiker, 1 step i remember abt the 2t pump adjustment is once you hv adjusted the nut up or down, you hv to chk by opening full throttle & make sure that the 2 marks at the pump there coincides. This is a critical chk. @KennethJc, I was at x performance to decarbonise exhaust fri nite. A bluish purple metallic sp came & parked nxt to mine. On front cowl had the name Kenneth. Was that you?
  7. Castrol power 1 racing 2t not bad. Was using it for abt 8 -9 mths before switching to motul. I got it abt $18 at bendemeer rd. At motodiam abt $22-23. But was surprised motul costs $28 there. Need to refill 2-3 tanks is excessive. Uncle Chong told me shld be abt 5-7 tanks. There was a blog which showed how to do it by Willie Fang. If not wrong, nut turned down is to decrease. But unfortunately now cant see the photos on that blog cos that ability now blocked by photobucket it seems. http://williefang.com/2010/06/12/adjusting-nsr-150-oil-pump/. I had mine adjusted by Uncle Chong for $5 only!
  8. weird leh... never heard jus change rings only. Its always the whole set - piston, rings, bearing & clip. Lagi worse is every service change rings. & if really you have blow by problem, the whole piston is condemned already. Not just rings. Thats why i trust only TSK in jb. Always honda genuine parts. Refer to Sp parts catalogue, quote the part number & order. Workmanship also top level. I Go X performance only to decarbonise exhaust or get certain accessories only.
  9. I saw on ebay brand new sp instrument cluster. abt usd$130 or so. Free shipping from thailand. Quite tempted to get. My original 1, speedo needle broke aftr kena buang at causeway on cny eve. Fitted 2nd hand instrument cluster replacement. Now the speedo & odo gives higher readings then normal. Speedo now gvs abt 10km/h more, odo now gvs abt 10% more. Fuel gauge now also a bit haywire. Chk with you guys, 6th gear 5k revs. What speedo reading you hv? Mine now is a bit under 95km/h. My original 1 gv 80km/h. At 7k revs gv abt 110km/h. Now it shows 125 km/h. There was a guy selling used
  10. True. The swingarm & exhaust belly are totally extinct now both in sg & jb. YSS rear shock getting harder to find. My endcan was the last one Chong Aik had. Everfit & FJT dun have. TSK ordered my swingarm bearings for rear wheel & the bush for the swingarm to chassis connection. Took at least 2 - 3 weeks for each to arrive. Yes. My Vesrah pads are for the ninja. Front & rear pads are different plate shape & size. So make sure you buy front set & rear set. Interesting point is the ninja krr150 rear shock can also use on sp. jus hv to terbalik it only.
  11. Feb 2021. Think I will renew coe when the time comes. Excellent bike to get around super congested jb.
  12. Saw 1 in the used bike section going at just under 8k for i think 6-7 yrs coe. Was quite tempted to get it. Comes with the hrc card too. considering that a 3 yr coe s4 is abt $8k now, thot it (nsr250) was quite a good deal! Jus hv to be aware that its a dry clutch bike. Uncle Chong frm had told me of goons who thought it was also wet clutch & added gear oil & ruined the whole thing! Very prosperous business replacing that ruined clutch he says! btw congrats to crazybiker & Kenneth on your 2a!
  13. Crazybiker, Kenneth Im now waiting to retake my cl2 TP 3rd attempt. Never bought a 2a bike even tho was so tempted to either get a s4 or rvf or cbr. But at the end of the day the thought of spending some $8k for a 3 yrs more coe put me off. Then the arf thing came out which further reinforced my idea to save $$ for cl2 dream bike. Still happily riding my sp. Spent so much replacing various parts which failed during my ownership + the overhaul with brand new block & piston....I think I jus want to enjoy my 'new' bike a bit longer. lol All the best for your 2a bros!
  14. Dunno leh. I only kno as you say, tank abt 1.2l or so at most. But that time when i top up 1l that time i saw still hv space for more (thinking its the 200ml more). So I took 2nd pack & kept pouring until to the tank top level. Abt half pack leh. My guess is the tank is 1.2l. But from the tank onwards, all the filled tubings & the oil collector where the sensor is, is abt 300ml. The sensor spoiled is what im most worried abt. Cos i really dunno if spoiled or not. Thats why 1 way i use is to look at my smoke. Very little means need to be very careful liao. Do 1 medium blip, still hv
  15. Crazybiker, 5100 can get at planet. cant remember the price but definitely cheaper then 7100. Betn $18-$22 something like that lah. I went jb yesterday nite but didnt realise that 2t tank almost dry! Completely forgot to top up with my motul stocks. So this morning went TSK to get Elf Moto 2 Race but they dont have. Instead they gv me Elf moto 2 tech. Fully synthetic ester based. Rm69. Also very good! Acceleration & high rev running very smooth. Also seems to feel smoother then motul. Has anyone ever experienced the 2t oil light on speedo there come on? I havent yet. But there was
  16. The mech recommended to me by prev owner used gear oil. Castrol Manual GL4. Problem is that oil is heavy duty oil meant for heavy vehicles! Caused me a lot of problems cos clutch plates got stuck. Whole clutch changed by TSK. There is gear oil made for 2 stroke bikes - Motul Transoil Expert, Can get at X performance. The other one is Elf Moto Gear Oil 2t from TSK. Ive only tried moto gear only. These oils are semi synthetic. I still personally prefer Elf Moto 4 Tech (fully synthetic) over Moto Gear. Gear shifting feels smoother & oil lasts longer. But a bit more ex la. Moto gear abt Rm6
  17. You sure its white signboard? I always remembered it as red. The shop is i think the 2nd or 3rd unit of the 2nd blk of terrace buildings. It is 1 of the very few shops which operates 2 storeys. Downstairs is workshop. Upstairs is helmets, apparels, oils etc. The mechanics all wear red t shirts. Its probably the brightest lit workshop along that whole stretch. There is another x performance shop opp the road which operates as single storey, alongside the road leading to JB town. That signboard also red.
  18. Oh....Xifu Lam! I thought there was another xifu/sifu around or some other shop name which i wasnt aware of.
  19. I only trust Planet & TSK with my SP. TSK in the past had a team racing sps. Now they race ninja 250s. But those bearings which i mentioned, need to order. You can gv them a call & then you go there to install after they get the parts. The bearing which connects swingarm to chassis, cant do on sunday cos that bearing needs to be punched in. The punching shop closed on sun. So sat or weekdays only can do that 1.
  20. I did mine at Tai Seng Kooi. The bearing set at rear wheel rm300+. The bearing at the part which connects the swing arm to the chassis is rm160.
  21. X performance is red signboard. One of the units somewhere in the middle of that whole slope. Cant miss it la...the signboard is perpendicular to the road. So as you enter that lorong just keep your eyes up for the signboard. All the mechs wear red t shirts. Quite a number of sg bikes go there too. Its also one of the very few shops which have a boutique upstairs. I changed all my fairing screws there too.
  22. When i 1st coverted back to pump, the shop recommended by the prev owner filled my tank with Challenger fully synthetic 2t. Supposedly for high performance 2t engine. Philipino or Thai brand $10. Engine not smooth. So when that 1 almost used up i top up with my original castrol power 1 racing 2t. This 1 also not bad, quite smooth. $18 from bendemeer rd. Most other shops sell abt $23-$25. But funny thing is if use jb v power, the exhaust smell is very pungent. With sg petrols is ok. Now using motul 710 or if cant find motul, Elf moto 2 race. Elf also ester. At 8k revs v v nice & smoot
  23. Which shop you went? The 1 i went to was x performance motors. They heat up section by section. The 1st time i went there was good. The guy did neck, belly & end. Took abt 20mins + of heating. Wait to cool & respray. belly is rm48 & endcan is rm 28. The 2nd time i went there was a new guy, only did neck & belly, charged me rm 70+ . When i questioned him abt the prev price, he said price increased liao. Just dont go to the 1st corner shop you see. Didnt do proper thorough job, Didnt remove endcan, a bit more ex then x performance & worst of all used water to cool down t
  24. smok3anddfly, You did not specify what type of vibrations youre experiencing. Is it a high frequency buzz at the handlebars? If yes, thats normal at abt 6k+ revs. But that should smoothen out at higher revs say 7k onwards. But if the vibrations are the sort like knocking & shaking type as you ride fast, then that 1 is steering cone or wheel bearings worn out. For me it felt like riding an earthquake when at 8k revs+. Problem disappeared after changing steering cone & front wheel bearings. The rest i think crazybiker has answered quite well. But just to add abt battery - If
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