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Posts posted by il4

  1. Originally posted by zasper@January 09, 2007 07:37 pm

    abt the settings of the suspension , i tink im gonna try coz i juz dnt feel right for the handling my zx4 ... i tink its too hard on the back suspension ... can any1 feel same as me ?? or i tink mayb im still nt use to it :giddy: :giddy:

    The rear shock is overly damp by nature. maybe you like to set your Laden sag to your weight and set the rebound damping to 1st click to give you a plush ride.

  2. Originally posted by MiLeNkO@Dec 23 2006, 02:25 AM



    got a question..


    just change my tyres last week on my zx400


    110/150 sportec m1


    take corners really well, bike dives automatically but recently, i've been having problems doing smaller turns.


    problem only comes after the tyres warm up. i cannot make small turns properply. have problems even turning within a car park. alot of resistance when turning the handle bars. haha is this normal?


    :giddy: :giddy:

    ZXR400 have a 3.5" wide front rim, the correct size to use is 12 60/16 for the front tire.


    110 70/17 is not appropriate choice.

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  4. I am pretty sick of waiting for my braided brakelines to arrive. Seemingly it took forever.


    http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b349/Uberstore/raptured.jpgRaptured OEM brake lines


    I do not want such shits to happen to me so I gave Bikelab a call and got a pleasant surprise. They are now they agent for


    Spiegler Brake lines










    Fancy designing your own custom lines?


    Anyway I went for black braided lines and grey banjo nuts so that my bike dont stands out (conservative ha ha).


    Now the best part is that delivery is immediate. Joshua from Bikelab did an excellent job of installing the brake lines.


    I am now a very happy rider riding a bike with very good feel of my brakes. So much confidence.


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  5. Originally posted by RxzDelux@Jan 9 2006, 02:45 AM

    Thanks for the guidance Mr Anr Impex. I hav download it and see it already. I think it's simply not fair. Some of the EO is not fully though. Wan to compare must compare fully with fully.


    Some oils which r not fully syn in the test r:


    SAE40 Group

    Golden Spectro 4 10W40 Syn/Petroleum Blend Base = Semi-Synthetic

    Maxima Maxum 4 10W40 Syn/Petroleum Blend Base = Semi-Synthetic

    Penzzoil Motorcycle Oil 10W40 Petroleum Base


    SAE50 Group

    Castrol GPS 20W50 Syn/Petroleum Blend Base = Semi-Synthetic

    Castrol V-Twin 20W50 Syn/Petroleum Blend Base = Semi-Synthetic

    Golden Spectro 4 20W50 Syn/Petroleum Blend Base = Semi-Synthetic

    Golden Spectro American 4 20W50 Syn/Petroleum Blend Base = Semi-Synthetic

    Penzzoil Motorcycle 20W50 Petroleum Base

    Valvoline 4 Stroke 20W50 Petroleum Base

    Yamalube 4-R Syn/Petroleum Blend Base = Semi-Synthetic



    Funny man their Test? Like comparing the high end wif the lower end range? Sure lower end lose out la.... :faint:

    So ca we conclude that Semi Synthetic are no match for Fully Synthetic in terms of protection.

  6. Originally posted by ANR Impex@Jan 9 2006, 01:39 AM

    Amsoil MCF, MX4T, 300V and TorcoTSR = Fully Syns

    Maxum 4 here = semi syn


    Better film strength in a fully syn base bro. Besides 4 ball wear is an EP test, not a typical engine oil criterion test. If they bother to test some Maxima Ultra, the trace moly content together with the polyol ester base will give stellar results in that test. Why not compare apples to apples and test all fully syns? Amsoil have some cunning marketing pple who know how to pick their competition carefully.

    Dear Forumers, if you have follow this thread......


    You probably learn a thing or two. Fully Synthetic Oil delivers the best protection for your engine.


    Even Semi-Synthetic Engine Oil with generous dosage of addictives not even near.


    Therefore, insist on Fully Synthetic Oil (Except Hydrocracked "synthetic" oil).


    Many thanks to Resident Engine Oil Guru TeePeePhobee for spending time to educate fellow bikers :thumb:

  7. Originally posted by ANR Impex@Jan 8 2006, 01:10 AM

    Well, Maxima's antiwear ZDDP levels exceeds Spectro's. There IS already a top notch cycle oil in Singapore :shades: Amsoil did Maxima (and Spectro) a favour, you can find on Amsoil's website how well a semi syn Maxima and Spectro compares in terms of antiwear and HTHS (measures the shear resistance of oil at high temp) to a FULLY SYN Amsoil. But it did show an unusually high volatility and curiously poor 'rust protection' in the Spectro sample. I guess a possible reason Amsoil left out any of Maxima's and Spectro's fully syn products is that the results will no longer be that marketable.



    I have to agree with TeePeePhobe.


    Certain Oil have extremely high Zinc and Phospherous as addictives, use as last line of defense against component contacting with each other.


    However such addictives added to the engine oil (to reduce undesirable wear) will only be meaningful if it can serve it purpose, reduce metal wear.




    Strangely one particular brand which reported to have high zinc phoperous content (2,464ppm) and another brand which have lesser content (at 1,474ppm) register the same scar diameter.


    Zinc for those oils performing the best, AMSOIL MCF, Mobil 1 MX4T, Motul 300V Sport & Torco T-4SR ranged from 1,061 to 1,762ppm.


    In a nutshell, the above results strongly suggest that simply having high levels of zinc is not sufficient to effectively minimized wear.


    Mixing the right amount of addictive is crucial to do the right job properly is essential i reckon.

  8. Originally posted by eyz@Jan 5 2006, 09:09 PM

    umm frankly speaking.. i'm still using the stock pads...


    yes, 6 years old, since the bike was manufactured.. hehe

    but it performed it's task well while on the track..


    but i guess i'll have a change of pad before the next track session..

    most probably 2 pair braking for the front and rear..


    which model do ya recommend il4? i thnk there are 2 model and the price differences isn't tat much.. btw, the distributorship of braking product is now under Regina, not Ideal anymore.. tat was wat i was being informed by my fren..


    i jus dun feel justifiable paying 60++ for a pair of rear EBC HH pads.. it's smaller, yet it cost as much as the front..

    Braking ranges includes from off road (SM1) to Race Application (CM66).


    For your kinda usage, I reckon CM55 will be ideal choice.


    Your friend's information on the change in Braking distributorship is fast. But from what I gather Regina is not ready to take any orders yet, till further notice.



    If you are still interested in EBC, I have HH front for RS125 going for $45 and Kevlar rear for $38. Will you consider my offer?


    FYI I have very limited inventory for them.

  9. Originally posted by eyz@Jan 5 2006, 04:03 PM

    il4, ya got good lobang for EBC sintered pads eh??


    those bits are exp man..


    i prefer braking.. it's kinda cheap and efficient..

    Are you using Braking CM55 Sintered brake pads?


    single caliper for a sports bike is already very easy on the bank account. I pity those on '04 636 and K3.

  10. Originally posted by xxes123@Jan 5 2006, 03:33 PM

    currently , i am using gold friend brake pads, as a temporary ones before my new brake disc and HEL comes in mid jan.. i tried isumi, braking , ebc , new friend ,etc,


    enough braking power for normal use but jus not enough when wrist is itchy and at high rpm

    Hi there,


    thank you for your prompt reply, however you fail to indicate which model from a specific brand you have used, or you are going to use for your new brake set up.


    Most brake pads manufacturer have a few models of brake pads. Ranging from Race use (probably 0.65 heating rating onwards) to sports use (0.55 heat rating) to Kevlar/Ceramic brake pads.


    For instance EBC range from (example) FA126 and FA126HH is alot of difference.


    Will you mind indicating which are the specific models you have used and going to use for your new brake set up.

  11. Originally posted by xxes123@Jan 5 2006, 04:12 AM

    nope, it wouldnt warp the disc, disc warpping is usually caused by the heat inbalance or poor heat dissipation... ours is a 320mm oversize disc , comparing to double 290mm disc as used by rs250 or other bikes the area isnt very big difference as in at max 1.5 times larger only, 320 mm disc area is ard 310cm sq per disc.. then u mus remenber the caliper piston area , aprilia caliper piston area is also oversize, pressure = force /area... so overall effect should be a very strong braking effect w/o wheel lock or skidding provided good tyres and braking skill , remenber our tyre contact area is also big enough to support this stronger MC , same MC on a kips, sp or cub would simply means wheel lock/skid..


    the first number is the pump cross sectional area and the second is the lenght which will translate to the vol of brake fluid being moved


    i would rather have better brakes than more power(torque) any day.. wan more speed mus also have more stopping power to complement ... i simply not satified by the power our stock braking system is to offer, for our bike during cruising or normal riding is more than enough , during acceleration of 13-14k rpm , our brakes cannot make it during ebrake, the bike momentum is simply to big ...


    having more braking power isnt overkill , it all depends on how u look at things, i wouldn wan telling myself this" knn car , suddenly jammed brake infront of me , knn, cb, f&*k up brakes cannot stop , then *BANG*, grow horns and tails ,go to hell and complain tat the car ebrake... having more spare braking power is better than maxing out watever u have in an emergency,


    similarly having more torque/power , an immature kiddo will speed ard disturbing other bikes he met on road and mature rider will jus keep the addtional torque for emergancy use eg speeding out of a tight/danger spot... its 2 side of a coin... how u look at things


    personally i feel having more/overkill for normal usage is ok rather than cursing and swearing during times of emergency

    Thank you for sharing, May I know what brake pads you use?

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  13. Originally posted by Stone@Dec 14 2005, 12:59 AM

    try bike lab, they did a good job on mine.. but price wise i think its on the high side..

    I reckon their price is very reasonable, a quick check on the internet, you recieve a rude shock that servicing shocks oversea cost a fortune. Count ourselve extremely fortunate to have competent lads from Bikelab to take care of the shock at decent price.

  14. Originally posted by Zer0@Dec 8 2005, 11:51 AM

    Different manufacturer, the actual jets are the same thing just different brand.

    Dynojet Needles are known to be detrimental to the carb's emulsion tube, it causes uneven wearing that results in certain needle position (usually below 3/4 Throttle Position) to be excessively Rich. Do you reckon Factory Jet will be the same as DJ needles?

  15. Originally posted by wolfclaw@Nov 25 2005, 03:40 AM

    I'm wondering.. between dunlop and bridgestone..


    which is better for class 2b naked bike front: 110/70 17 rear: 160/40 17?


    dunlop.. 240 with installation @ joo chiat's bikers D.I.Y


    any other good recommendation?

    what bike do you ride?


    How come the rear rides with 160 40/17?

  16. Originally posted by Bboytrez@Nov 1 2005, 01:06 AM

    hi kawa brothers..im lookin for zxr400..i search high and low liao..but find only 1..a 8 year old bike, and d shop offer me 3.8..how do u guys rate that and should i buy?? or if u guys have frenz willing to let go, do pm me yeah..hopin 2 join d kawas..tanx yeah..cheers

    Why a ZXR400?


    The legendary myth surrounding it is pretty much true......

  17. Originally posted by kata_killer@Oct 31 2005, 11:28 AM

    I got, but different brand n different size..... Front I'm having a 110 size? u wan meh?

    I think Pierre understand that its is WRONG to use a 110 70/17 tires on a RVF front rim with 3.5" wide front rim.


    Cheers to Katakiller for the thought

  18. Originally posted by winstonz+Nov 3 2005, 07:56 PM-->
    QUOTE (winstonz @ Nov 3 2005, 07:56 PM)
    i'm not changing to vesrah. got myself ferodo instead. Vesrah is a sintered brakepad which i read isnt so rotor friendly.[/b]

    rotor wear is part and parcel of wear and tear, and there will be a day when then rotors need to be replace.


    I can see where you are coming from for not using Sintered Brake Pads, however I do stress that you are sacrificing Braking for longivity of your rotors.


    Then again, you just increase your probability of inability to brake in time. This can also lead to head on collision which may inturn leads to your rotors having to be replace as well(crash damage).





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