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Metalfyre

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About Metalfyre

  • Birthday 08/19/1983

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  1. Technically yes..opening the throttle allows more air to enter the intake manifold, using the Bernoulli's principle (i.e. as the velocity increases, pressure falls) to suck in more fuel from the float chamber in the carb causing more fuel-air mixture to enter into the cylinder. AFAIK however opening the throttle does not make your fuel-air mixture leaner.
  2. http://www.nzblokes.co.nz/lane-splitting-on-motorbikes/ I just came across this video on FB on lane splitting that I thought is too good not to share. The video is an excellent, informative watch that I would recommend to any rider new or seasoned. Lane splitting aside, it touches on the attitude every rider should have; taking responsibility for your own safety and managing your own risks rather than expecting drivers to watch out for you, letting it go even if someone just tried to wipe you out with an abrupt lane shift...do watch it and pass the word. More awareness means more riders survive to ride another day. And further, this video highlights the importance for more awareness and skills regarding lane splitting..especially amongst riders. You're safer when you do it. And you may cause danger not only to yourselves but to others when you don't. Here are a few points derived from my own experience and what I've observed of riders on the road regarding lane splitting (disclaimer..my own opinion): 1) Reduce the time spent inside blindspots: This may sound like 'duh logic', but many times I've seen riders sticking to the rear corner of a vehicle that they are not confident they can pass. The driver is not going to see you in that blind spot, and the longer you stay there the more likely he's going to forget about your existence. Doing this also causes an obstruction to riders who are lane splitting behind you, dangerous because the 'rear corner hugger' forces them to dwell inside the blind spots of the car behind...or between 2 cars where there's less space. If you don't think you can pass, move over slightly and follow the outside wheel from behind. The driver can now see you in his rearview mirror, and other riders can pass. 2) Enforce your own space: One of the reasons lane splitting is safer is that it creates space for the rider. It may sound counter-intuitive since lane splitting means you're riding between vehicles with a couple of inches of clearance, but it's not. Imagine you're following behind a car. In this situation the space you have is your following distance to the car ahead and the space beside you. We'll ignore the space behind since we're talking about space that is usable to a rider, and most bikes can't reverse quickly. The space a rider has in this situation is dependent on the car ahead, and would resemble a box/rectangle. Now, switching over to lane splitting, the usable space at the sides decreases, but the space ahead is multiplied since you virtually have one 'lane' to yourself. So if traffic is heavy, lane splitting creates far more space for a rider than following traffic. However, many riders stay on the road markings even when there is no traffic around them. Lane splitting is a maneuver riders use to overtake, and is effective because riders possess a greater spatial awareness as discussed in the video. Drivers do not have this advantage, and if a rider forces them to overtake while occupying the lane splitting 'lane', there's less margin for error. The white paint between lanes also has crappy grip...especially in the wet. Create space for yourself when you can, and occupy a lane if there is no traffic around you. 3) Spatial awareness is a biker's greatest asset. Exploit it: Some riders subscribe to the fallacy that having no side mirrors (or small ones) help you to lane split better. This cannot be further from the truth. Your mirrors provide you with information, and removing them handicaps you. Having to turn your head constantly to check means less time with your eyes in front. Also, your mirrors are your best guide while lane splitting, and seasoned riders use them to gauge whether there is sufficient space to proceed. A slight misjudgment will at most result in your mirrors smacking against a car's side mirror. Without your mirrors, the thing that smacks into the car's side mirror will be your handlebars. You don't want to be losing directional control whilst lane splitting. In short, side mirrors provide riders with more spatial awareness, without which the task of arriving at point B safely becomes that much harder. Riders need all the help they can get. 4) Be predictable: Everything involving road safety has to do with predictability. Signalling in advance, travelling at a constant speed...all these help your fellow road users to map out their own future actions. Weaving in between lanes whilst lane splitting is far less predictable than going in a straight line. The latter also involves less road users, meaning less drivers have to make sense of what the rider is doing and react accordingly...which translates to a lower probability that a driver will miscalculate. Weaving or failing to signal may get you there faster (or save you 1/4th of a joule of finger energy), but it increases the risk of miscalculation. In the same light, a driver who inexplicably brakes when the road ahead of him is clear isn't one a rider wants to follow behind. Keep clear of unpredictable drivers. Remember...you chose to ride and take up the risk. Your safety and well-being are your own responsibility, and it's up to you to manage the risks. Ride safe, fellow riders! Please feel free to discuss, debate or contest any of my points.
  3. Hope you're doing ok and your shoulder is recovering well. Looking forward to further updates!
  4. I've tried many times to change out the POS heavy rear rim. Cannot means cannot. I do remember hearing somewhere that it's possible with a Steed/Shadow rear rim...but I can't confirm since spoke rims don't appeal to me and I've never tried it. If you clutch in..does the sound disappear or change? Try changing a different type of EO and see if the sound persists. I think a bit premature for a cam tensioner failure diagnosis. 90% is battery. You may have been a carrot on this occasion. The battery can have enough juice to light up the small neutral light bulb..but a lot more power is required to turn the starter motor. The easy way to check is to activate your lights and see if the neutral light becomes significantly dimmer/flickers off. 1st gen can on/off headlight...other models can try signal lights + brake lights and observe the headlight + neutral light. Or get a voltmeter and check. Chattering means sound? Or power transmission? You may need a bottom overhaul for your 4th gear. Hmm..if too rich, twisting the throttle should not solve the problem...the engine should sound different (dull/bloated? dunno how to describe) and won't rev up as well when you twist the throttle. You'd experience the same symptoms if you forget to disengage your choke and ride off...coz the choke reduces air in the air/fuel mixture and makes it richer. Am I missing something? A temporary solution would be to increase your idling speed. Last time I kena before..ppl di siao and turn my idling speed down lol.
  5. Can try Givi http://cdn3.volusion.com/ffxyt.jvnne/v/vspfiles/photos/GIVI%20SR691-2.jpg You can try Shorai. Good reviews from a couple of BWM riders I've met. Btw..hi fellow riders. Been riding a K1200RS for about a month
  6. Got a friend selling a Honda Steed, COE up till next year. PM if you're interested and I'll supply you with his contacts.
  7. 1. Describe your throttle position when you attempt to downshift. Is the throttle fully closed? 2. Sounds like your clutch is still engaged. 3. ^ Try adjusting your clutch cable again...pull your biting point further out. When you say 'problems came back', did your biting point 'move' back in? Try to observe whether your biting point is moving 'in', 'in' being closer to your grip (i.e. release a bit of clutch and it engages), and 'out' being further from your grip (need to release more of the clutch handle before it engages). Hopefully this solves your problems, although your stomping of your first 3 gears has most likely caused some damage. You can upshift without the clutch if you time it right, but downshifts hurt your transmission. If you've been stomping for a long time, the damage will be worse. Try listening to your bike when you're in the 1st 3 gears; any extra sound in that gear, or a loss of power in that gear is a pretty good indication that you have a worn gear. If it doesn't solve your problem (your problem still comes back but your biting point remains at the same clutch lever position), then...like what your mechanic said...need to change your transmission gears. As for why you can change gears normally at higher gears, take a look at how a motorcycle gearbox works: or a simpler one: You'll notice the sprockets that shift for each gear are different in both videos. But this should at least educate you on how it is possible for just 3 of your 6 gears to develop a problem. By this do you mean your left fork, or your left rear shock? Sounds like a loose nut/bolt/screw.
  8. Wow nice! I had been looking for stuff to do to my phantom a couple of years back..(even tried shoehorning a RS125 rear wheel onto a modified swingarm...which ended in failure), but I wasn't aware that engine work to this degree was an option. I've since scrapped that phantom since it seemed like the furthest I could go performance mods-wise was slapping on a pair of Bitubos. Definitely something I would have wanted to try if I still had the bike. I'll be watching with interest. Thanks for the updates! P.S. I think one of the main constraints for Singaporeans is space. Most of us live in flats and don't have a garage, or access to one. I've done most of my grunt work at the void deck of my block, and the main limitation of using public spaces like that is you can't leave your bike in pieces and come back the next day for part 2. Also, no access to power tools. This kinda limits most of us to DIY modifications we can complete within a day at the very most. To me, it's this constraint (rather than it being illegal) that's the biggest barrier to major work like this.
  9. No relevance srini? The road and its inhabitants must have been kind to you... To T.S: It's normal to feel discouraged, stressed, and to feel that perhaps the instructors are nitpicking. Just remember that you are there to learn, and that making mistakes are probably the quickest way you will learn. Take it from someone who has had to attempt the TP test 6x. You'll get there eventually with enough practice, and adopting a learning attitude will speed things along. In direct response to your issue, 'eyeline' is probably the most important aspect of steering. As Siphon already mentioned, you look at curb you will go to the curb. Keep your eyes on where you want to go, and if it helps draw an imaginery line from you to your target. As you are moving, consistently extend your 'target' further as befits your speed. Do not keep your eyeline fixed on a single spot. Hope it helps.
  10. Tires are the one place you get contact with the road, and many riders rightly preach about not skimping when it comes to buying the rubbers. Here's a tyre wear guide that will hopefully help you pick the right set of hoops, get the most out of the tires you splurged so much on, and hints on how your setup can affect your rubber's health :x Tire Sizes & Profiles Explained Tire Wear Guide When To Change Your Tires Tire Pressures For Trackdays
  11. Guide To Oils Oils are the lifeblood of your machine. This is probably the most important thing to know. Found a good resource that explains oil grades and such. http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Oil_Labelling_Explained
  12. The reality is, as a biker, accidents are inevitable. Of my 10+ years of riding experience, I only know one person who never kena accident before; it is a question of when...not if, and how serious it may be. Put yourself in that situation. If you meet with an accident, would you stop riding? In which case...u might want to reconsider taking a bike license. Or would you soldier on?
  13. I'm assuming it's not your bike. As many have mentioned, your posture is crucial. The reason you want to grip your fuel tank is so you do not have to put weight on your handlebars. The handlebars are the only thing that affect your direction, and wobbling indicates you have been somehow providing input to your handlebars. Grip them firmly, and relax. Keeping your eyeline as far as possible helps; the further your point of reference, the more stable you will be. Your body will not feel the need to 'correct' your balance. Finally...practice. There is no substitute to this.
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