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About mechwira

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  • Birthday 07/10/1980
  1. its actually very easy to remember: anywhere you can normally park legally using the HDB/URA coupon, you can now park for free. anywhere normally you cannot park even with the HDB/URA coupon, you still cannot park. you apply this simple logic and its obvious where can and cannot park.
  2. simply removing the battery and doing nothing else will have no effect whatsoever on the rest of the bike. other than the clock which will reset.
  3. having your agreement in black and white is always good, but you also have to understand that if he does run off with your money without completing the handover, even with that black and white your only recourse is to bring him to court. bringing that black and white to the police and expecting them to grab the bike and hand over to you won't happen because they will consider it a dispute and not a crime. thats because under LTA records ownership of the bike is still under the other fella. but if it does happen and you do bring him to court, the black and white will help a lot getting it settl
  4. ah yup..... fond memories of that and dun forget that trail of smoke behind you're right, dats exactly how a 2b 2-stroke engine behaves. by contrast, a 2b 4-stroke goes nothing-nothing-nothing and....... nothing. and like i said, most, if not all, 2a 4-strokes are likely to beat the sp. but when you consider only the world of 2b, chasing that powerband and then feeling that aggression kick in and the accompanying engine wail, theres nothing else like it if you restrict yourself to just the world of 2b. do the same on a modern class 2 sportsbike though, and your underwear will turn b
  5. 15 years ago i first got my 2b and rode a phantom150, the 2-stroke version with the same engine as the sp. and my 2 close pals rode the sp. it seems everywhere you look, ppl were on either the phantom150 or the sp, and a few RS125 or TZM150 or remnants of new(ish) RXZ. it was the 'climax' of the 2-stroke era and also, very very unfortunately, the beginning of the end. i can tell you now, on a new or good condition sp, if you ever feel sian of it today, the only way to get a new kick is to up 2a. no brand new 4-stroke 2b bike you can buy today can hold a candle to that engine, by a significa
  6. the easy answer is, look at your bike manual under scheduled maintenance, and simply go mechanic and ask for the stated service at the stated mileage interval. if you do not have a copy of the manual, it should be easy enough to find on net and download. if you currently have a brand new bike, the key servicing that you should look out for is oil change at 1,000km. in general, most mechanics will ask you service more frequently than stated in manual. you want to believe them or manual is your choice. personally i always bear in mind the manual is from the actual manufacturer, and if t
  7. If the two fuels were purely fuels with different RON, then the only thing the 98 will do for your vehicle is increase consumption with no added benefits whatsoever. on this (correct) basis, many people will tell you it makes no difference, might as well pump the lower RON save money and fuel. but the truth is, the oil company mixes in additives with the 98 to make your vehicle perform marginally better than if you pumped the 95. so there is a chance that when you pump the 98, you can really 'feel' a difference in performance from your vehicle, so that you are enticed to pump the 98 and pay
  8. the ninja 250 has ceased production for quite some time already, its been replaced by the ninja 300 for at least the past 4 years. i am riding a 4 year old ninja 300. Technically, indonesia sells a ninja 300 sleeved down to 250cc and marketed as ninja 250, but it seems to be the only place selling this sleeved down model; no other country i know sells this 250 version. The CBR250RR is all new, and not to be confused with CBR250R that can be seen on the road. actually, the CBR250R supposed to be replaced by a CBR300R, but i haven seen it either. I have, however, seen the CBR400R, which is ag
  9. the whole point of 'barefoot running' (either literally barefoot or wearing very minimalist shoes) is to change your running style such that you land on the mid or fore foot, with your heel taking absolutely none of the impact. the idea here is that this type of running style eliminates pain in the heel, ankle, shin and knees. if you do this properly, then it will do the opposite of wat you claim: really no pain in heel and ankle (and shin and knees). but its not for everyone. whoever wants to try it out must properly know what is midfoot or forefoot strike, by reading or watching videos
  10. read the book in my 2b days more than a decade ago, and equally applicable when i finally got on a class 2. the book has more info than the video. besides, motorcycle technology continues to improve as the years go by but until they invent a self-driven bike, the monkey on top of it still has to do the same thing regardless of the bike technology. that book is DEFINITIVE.
  11. i recommend the book, Twist of the Wrist by Keith Code. I consider that book compulsory reading for all road riders. It was my bible of road riding skills. not sure about websites. Try searching for that same author. He's famous in the the riding world.
  12. i have to agree, burnouts, stoppies and wheelies are not the first things that come to mind when improving riding skills. and you are not likely to find any place legal in singapore to do so. they are not even encouraged on track, and may get you banned. the most basic way is to read up on riding skills, from books or internet, and consciously practice on the road. do not, trying out these skills on the road is not supposed to be dangerous, because they teach where to look, how to position your body, etc etc so there is nothing wrong with actually trying them out on the road. its how i myse
  13. i assume this happened while you were taking either 2a or 2. when i was taking 2b, we were told only open face allowed as instructors/testers specifically want to spot your eyes and where you are looking. this was no longer a concern on 2a and 2 because by then it was about your ability to control the bike through the obstacles.
  14. i'm just going to share my opinion. when i buy my helmets, i check for international certifications like ECE and SNELL, and i will buy and wear helmets with such certification even without PSB because i consider those standards and testing superior to PSB. i am NOT however part of the anti-PSB brigade. i believe PSB certification is absolutely necessary in general specifically for generic cheap helmets bought and worn by a large segment of bikers. my own father will always buy and wear the cheapest open face he can buy, and luckily he makes sure there is PSB if only to avoid TP summons a
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