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[Group] TRIUMPH Speed Triple Riders


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Wow are the screw and nut from somewhere critical? Mine was from the radiator cowl, not very important if one drops off, so still ok.

 

Oh man! The mechanic told me water is fine!! The coolant is actually pink/reddish in colour. Looks like I better go back this Saturday again and ask them to put in real coolant for me. I hope they don't charge me for that. Sigh!

 

Hey you got to watch your Tiger's engine oil level. Also ask Alex to watch his. I was flipping through an old issue of my BIKE magazine today (pg. 160 of Nov. 2007 issue) and it commented abt the new Tiger and Daytona "drinking" engine oil! It seems that the warning lights didn't come up even when the oil level is dangerously low! So some of the bearings in the cylinders got fried and screwed up the engine! So don't depend on the electronics. Better check manually.

 

One thing I hate is that the bike does not have a window for me to check the oil level (like Ducati has). I got to literally pull the stupid oily stick out to check. They say they used different pistons for the Street Triple (same engine as Daytona) to reduce oil consumption but I am still not letting my guards down!

 

Yah 6L/100km is my average FC. Today I checked, it dropped to 5.9L/100km. Slight improvement there haha!! Cos I have been riding a lot of expressways last week. So it does change, nothing wrong with it. Ok one less thing to worry.

 

I haven't been checking the instantaneous FC for quite some time now. If I remember correctly, when moving off, it was like 14.5 - 15L/100km. It then drops to 4.5 - 6L/100km when you are at constant speed. The rest I can't remember .........

 

 

 

 

The nut & screw was from the handguard, prob hit MR Sloggi on the way back from Port **** and he didnt realise it. :p

I should have gone back to Mah and look for the Nut.

 

My coolant level, after 5000km, still in the high zone, no issue.

I believe the mech said use water ONLY if it is the last resort. eg. almost no coolant in the overflow tank. Then only use water, then go to workshop to get it replaced with coolant immediately. Rust happens very quickly with water in the radiator. Even when it is flushed now and there is no rust, subsequent flushes you may notice some rusting. Rusting reduces the effectiveness of the radiator. If my coolant is low, I rather go buy coolant then top up with h2o and ride there. Safety first. Now you have a cocktail of coolant & h20.

 

I tested some of the sensors, and they work, and the engine mgt light comes on as required. Will double check oil level with tyre pressure everywk. Tks for the heads up.

 

Are you serious? 6L/100km? Thats pretty high, cause Im getting about 6.5L/100km and Ive got 25kg boxes and another 30kg extra load to haul. Maybe time to move up from 92 RON fuel. Could be your exhaust also. Check current mths Superbike mag. They did a dyno run with the Arrows and stock. With the AirLows, it is 2kg lighter, but the street triple loses about 5hp. Last mth's PB mag also reports same power loss on dyno with airlows, and the bike actually runs hotter than with stock even after remapping.

 

Moving off with it showing max FC is also inaccurate. I double checked the forums already. The other owners dont get this. This extreme high reading gives a wrong avg FC consumption which gives wrong fuel gauge reading which also leads to incorrect dist to refuel mileage.

 

The official Triumph agent in Spore says its normal.

The ppl in UK says its not.

 

Who can fix this issue?

Most people go through life following the crowd.

 

Others think for themselves.

 

They go their own way.

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My coolant in the reservior is just below the LOW mark, but not as "tremendous" as CMYRS said lah. haha. I tought the coolant was green in colour when we 1st got our bike, red doesnt look healthy leh. I have change the coolant since my 2nd oil change. Think its time u change urs.

 

Below the LOW not considered low?:giddy:

 

A few traffic lights in Spore I think low might become lowerrrrrrr......

 

But so far, even in jams, the gauge never show it overheat yet.

 

YET.

Most people go through life following the crowd.

 

Others think for themselves.

 

They go their own way.

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something for you to read:

http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=20375

http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10931

 

I seems to have the same problem as well. Might be what those guys were saying; that plastic elbow thing or radiator cap. I suspect maybe also due to loose radiator hose. But so far i too busy to check.

 

I haven't top up yet, I think no big issue as long as there is coolant in the reservior. Personally I dont like to mix the coolant with water, I suggest u change ur coolant while tighten those hose clamps.

 

I have checked through my hoses time and again. Found no visible sign of leakage. Just checked my coolant and engine oil level few minutes ago (engine was cold) and everything seems alright now. Funny. Hey better play safe man, go top up your coolant. Just a simple job, rather than risk damaging the engine. Actually I should have warmed up the engine before checking the engine oil level. Just realised that!

 

My coolant in the reservior is just below the LOW mark, but not as "tremendous" as CMYRS said lah. haha. I tought the coolant was green in colour when we 1st got our bike, red doesnt look healthy leh. I have change the coolant since my 2nd oil change. Think its time u change urs.

 

Eh sorry man, double-checked. The coolant is green. My bad.

 

The nut & screw was from the handguard, prob hit MR Sloggi on the way back from Port **** and he didnt realise it. :p

I should have gone back to Mah and look for the Nut.

 

My coolant level, after 5000km, still in the high zone, no issue.

I believe the mech said use water ONLY if it is the last resort. eg. almost no coolant in the overflow tank. Then only use water, then go to workshop to get it replaced with coolant immediately. Rust happens very quickly with water in the radiator. Even when it is flushed now and there is no rust, subsequent flushes you may notice some rusting. Rusting reduces the effectiveness of the radiator. If my coolant is low, I rather go buy coolant then top up with h2o and ride there. Safety first. Now you have a cocktail of coolant & h20.

 

I tested some of the sensors, and they work, and the engine mgt light comes on as required. Will double check oil level with tyre pressure everywk. Tks for the heads up.

 

Are you serious? 6L/100km? Thats pretty high, cause Im getting about 6.5L/100km and Ive got 25kg boxes and another 30kg extra load to haul. Maybe time to move up from 92 RON fuel. Could be your exhaust also. Check current mths Superbike mag. They did a dyno run with the Arrows and stock. With the AirLows, it is 2kg lighter, but the street triple loses about 5hp. Last mth's PB mag also reports same power loss on dyno with airlows, and the bike actually runs hotter than with stock even after remapping.

 

Moving off with it showing max FC is also inaccurate. I double checked the forums already. The other owners dont get this. This extreme high reading gives a wrong avg FC consumption which gives wrong fuel gauge reading which also leads to incorrect dist to refuel mileage.

 

The official Triumph agent in Spore says its normal.

The ppl in UK says its not.

 

Who can fix this issue?

 

Hey I still don't know who Mr Sloggi is. Is he riding a black Daytona?? No leh I remembered clearly that the mechanic said it is ok to leave the water inside the coolant mixture. I guess rusting won't happen that easily becasue the coolant mixture contains corrosion inhibitor which prevents rusting. But since the mixture is off now, I better get it fixed ASAP. That is why I don't feel safe now. I better go back and flush out the mixture and replace with fresh coolant.

 

For the average FC, lower figure actually means better mileage. 5L/100km is better than 6L/100km. Because you use less fuel for the same distance mah. Yes, exhausts definately affects FC. But no choice, want to look and sound nice haha. About the performance part, I heard about it too but I'm not too concerned because I'm more concerned with the cosmetic part hehe.

 

15L/100km when moving off but after that it changes to 4.5 - 6L/100km after a few seconds, so should be normal right? Because it is instananeous, it is showing the FC at that instant? Cos the bike consumes more fuel when moving off from a stop, that is normal right? I calculated using my petrol receipt (the amount of fuel I pumped in and the amount of fuel I used up according to the gauage) and it is quite accurate leh?

 

But as with all things electronics, you cannot really trust them, even the temperature and engine oil gauges. So from now on I'm gonna do it the manual way when checking the levels (too bad I cannot test the temperature hehe).

 

:pray: that nothing happen to our bikes. Good to share all these information :thumb:

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I have checked through my hoses time and again. Found no visible sign of leakage. Just checked my coolant and engine oil level few minutes ago (engine was cold) and everything seems alright now. Just a simple job, rather than risk damaging the engine. Actually I should have warmed up the engine before checking the engine oil level. Just realised that!

 

Hey I still don't know who Mr Sloggi is. Is he riding a black Daytona?? No leh I remembered clearly that the mechanic said it is ok to leave the water inside the coolant mixture. I guess rusting won't happen that easily becasue the coolant mixture contains corrosion inhibitor which prevents rusting. But since the mixture is off now, I better get it fixed ASAP. That is why I don't feel safe now. I better go back and flush out the mixture and replace with fresh coolant.

 

For the average FC, lower figure actually means better mileage. 5L/100km is better than 6L/100km. Because you use less fuel for the same distance mah. Yes, exhausts definately affects FC. But no choice, want to look and sound nice haha. About the performance part, I heard about it too but I'm not too concerned because I'm more concerned with the cosmetic part hehe.

 

15L/100km when moving off but after that it changes to 4.5 - 6L/100km after a few seconds, so should be normal right? Because it is instananeous, it is showing the FC at that instant? Cos the bike consumes more fuel when moving off from a stop, that is normal right? I calculated using my petrol receipt (the amount of fuel I pumped in and the amount of fuel I used up according to the gauage) and it is quite accurate leh?

 

But as with all things electronics, you cannot really trust them, even the temperature and engine oil gauges. So from now on I'm gonna do it the manual way when checking the levels (too bad I cannot test the temperature hehe).

 

:pray: that nothing happen to our bikes. Good to share all these information :thumb:

 

Should warm up the bike entirely or after a heavy jam ride, check the coolant.

Thats the best time. Esp. when its at the hottest and the fan comes on.

So u know at the hottest pt, highest pressure, if there are leaks, you should see it. Tighten all hoses and check radiator cap for leaks. Check over flow tank if its near to the brim, which may explain spill over, so loss in coolant.

 

mr sloggi wears black underwear on wkends only. :p

 

yes, there is corrosion inhibitor but im sure u want the best for your bike!!

dont want it circulating around the engine. once rust starts inside, how to stop? spreads like wild bush fire.

 

 

Ok, good, now ure aware of the 15L/100km.

Now, try this, moving off down a slope, clutch in, you also get a reading of 15L/100km even with ZERO throttle input.

Is this correct?

 

Ive tried 2nd-6th gear full throttle runs from 50km/h - 200km/h and I cannot get the gauge to read 15L/100km. Ure aware, 15L/100km is the highest figure the gauge can show.

 

How can they justify a downhill slop with zero throttle input (clutch in rpm1200) showing 15L/100km compared to 150-180km/h (6800rpm) full throttle showing 10-11L/100km?????

 

does this make any sense at all?

Most people go through life following the crowd.

 

Others think for themselves.

 

They go their own way.

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if i cannot rely on the electronics then y borther having it.

imagine yr gear shift light comes on at 3000rpm instead of 7000 all the time?

 

btw, u can install a mechanical oil temp. gauge into the engine oil sump.

that one is mechanical, not electrical and it is reliable.

Most people go through life following the crowd.

 

Others think for themselves.

 

They go their own way.

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Wow are the screw and nut from somewhere critical? Mine was from the radiator cowl, not very important if one drops off, so still ok.

 

Oh man! The mechanic told me water is fine!! The coolant is actually pink/reddish in colour. Looks like I better go back this Saturday again and ask them to put in real coolant for me. I hope they don't charge me for that. Sigh!

 

Hey you got to watch your Tiger's engine oil level. Also ask Alex to watch his. I was flipping through an old issue of my BIKE magazine today (pg. 160 of Nov. 2007 issue) and it commented abt the new Tiger and Daytona "drinking" engine oil! It seems that the warning lights didn't come up even when the oil level is dangerously low! So some of the bearings in the cylinders got fried and screwed up the engine! So don't depend on the electronics. Better check manually.

 

One thing I hate is that the bike does not have a window for me to check the oil level (like Ducati has). I got to literally pull the stupid oily stick out to check. They say they used different pistons for the Street Triple (same engine as Daytona) to reduce oil consumption but I am still not letting my guards down!

 

Yah 6L/100km is my average FC. Today I checked, it dropped to 5.9L/100km. Slight improvement there haha!! Cos I have been riding a lot of expressways last week. So it does change, nothing wrong with it. Ok one less thing to worry.

 

I haven't been checking the instantaneous FC for quite some time now. If I remember correctly, when moving off, it was like 14.5 - 15L/100km. It then drops to 4.5 - 6L/100km when you are at constant speed. The rest I can't remember .........

 

 

 

Hey minime,

 

I went to the show room last week and saw the Black Street Triple still sitting there haha ... it could have been yours if it is green. Then there was another green one sitting there with Arrow low-boy full system and Triumph bar-end mirror, waiting for collection. Looks like green is still the more popular colour choice

 

Wow, I wonder who's Green machine does it belongs to? It's been sitting there for almost 2 months. If he's not eager to get it starting. I'm more than willing to get it on the road soon.;)

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Should warm up the bike entirely or after a heavy jam ride, check the coolant.

Thats the best time. Esp. when its at the hottest and the fan comes on.

So u know at the hottest pt, highest pressure, if there are leaks, you should see it. Tighten all hoses and check radiator cap for leaks. Check over flow tank if its near to the brim, which may explain spill over, so loss in coolant.

 

mr sloggi wears black underwear on wkends only. :p

 

yes, there is corrosion inhibitor but im sure u want the best for your bike!!

dont want it circulating around the engine. once rust starts inside, how to stop? spreads like wild bush fire.

 

 

Ok, good, now ure aware of the 15L/100km.

Now, try this, moving off down a slope, clutch in, you also get a reading of 15L/100km even with ZERO throttle input.

Is this correct?

 

Ive tried 2nd-6th gear full throttle runs from 50km/h - 200km/h and I cannot get the gauge to read 15L/100km. Ure aware, 15L/100km is the highest figure the gauge can show.

 

How can they justify a downhill slop with zero throttle input (clutch in rpm1200) showing 15L/100km compared to 150-180km/h (6800rpm) full throttle showing 10-11L/100km?????

 

does this make any sense at all?

 

Actually for checking coolant, it's the opposite. Should check when bike is cool. That is accoridng to the manual lah. But as you've said, it might be easier to check for leaks when the bike is still piping hot. My coolant level has been ok for now so I really doubt there is any leakage. Just need to flush out the old mixture and get new one in. I think coolant level drops tremendously when we ride the bike hard too ..

 

I have to try the zero throttle thing to give you my feedback. So can I say Mr Sloggi is Mr Alex? :p Sloggi sounds like a womens' product hehehe.

 

if i cannot rely on the electronics then y borther having it.

imagine yr gear shift light comes on at 3000rpm instead of 7000 all the time?

 

btw, u can install a mechanical oil temp. gauge into the engine oil sump.

that one is mechanical, not electrical and it is reliable.

 

No lah .. I'm saying you can rely on electronics but not totally .. so it is safer to check manually once every week maybe. On the side note, the shift lights can be adjusted to light up at 3000rpm if you want to, hehe. I've adjusted mine to come on at 6000rpm. That was just to warn myself not to go beyond 6000rpm during that running-in period. Now lazy to change it back. Instructions are in the manual. :p

 

Wow, I wonder who's Green machine does it belongs to? It's been sitting there for almost 2 months. If he's not eager to get it starting. I'm more than willing to get it on the road soon.;)

 

Must be some rich guy who is on overseas business trip right now or someone who has too many bikes to play with, no time for the Street Triple yet haha! Try offering a higher price and see if the agent is willing to sell it to you? Hehehe!! :p

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Hi all

 

Just curious. Did any of you guys send your Triumph regardless of any model back to the agent for any servicing before? Any problem with the parts and service backup?

 

Cheers!

 

 

for older models, alan/gopa can handle the machines pretty well. i used to sent it to ah ta at mah but i understand he is no longer around.

 

the problem is sometimes sourcing for parts. i used to get all my parts from overseas and didn't even bother with mah.....for those who use bike daily as transport, some planning maybe required to reduce down time at the shop.

 

just do some research on line on the parts give uk/us a call/email and within 2weeks your parts are here.

 

for the FI models, they are similar unless you need to get the ECU remapped etc.

 

oil filter of old machines are similar to those of the honda cb750, get a K&N and you will be sorted for life. i think brake pads are similar to some honda models for the older t3 series. for those models, u do need an additional gasket if you want to change the front sprocket, also recommend to replace the sprocket nut washer at the same time.

 

you will get addicted to the machine, its sounds like a bag of bolts has been thrown into the engine but rev it up and saviour its wail, especially on illegal pipes:thumb: !

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzitech.dk/english/index.htm

 

1981 dt125

 

"its bad but not too bad"

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for older models, alan/gopa can handle the machines pretty well. i used to sent it to ah ta at mah but i understand he is no longer around.

 

the problem is sometimes sourcing for parts. i used to get all my parts from overseas and didn't even bother with mah.....for those who use bike daily as transport, some planning maybe required to reduce down time at the shop.

 

just do some research on line on the parts give uk/us a call/email and within 2weeks your parts are here.

 

for the FI models, they are similar unless you need to get the ECU remapped etc.

 

oil filter of old machines are similar to those of the honda cb750, get a K&N and you will be sorted for life. i think brake pads are similar to some honda models for the older t3 series. for those models, u do need an additional gasket if you want to change the front sprocket, also recommend to replace the sprocket nut washer at the same time.

 

you will get addicted to the machine, its sounds like a bag of bolts has been thrown into the engine but rev it up and saviour its wail, especially on illegal pipes:thumb: !

 

Thanks for the info dude! Just hope that the brand is reliable. Don't want to headache when there's problem with the bike.

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for older models, alan/gopa can handle the machines pretty well. i used to sent it to ah ta at mah but i understand he is no longer around.

 

the problem is sometimes sourcing for parts. i used to get all my parts from overseas and didn't even bother with mah.....for those who use bike daily as transport, some planning maybe required to reduce down time at the shop.

 

just do some research on line on the parts give uk/us a call/email and within 2weeks your parts are here.

 

for the FI models, they are similar unless you need to get the ECU remapped etc.

 

oil filter of old machines are similar to those of the honda cb750, get a K&N and you will be sorted for life. i think brake pads are similar to some honda models for the older t3 series. for those models, u do need an additional gasket if you want to change the front sprocket, also recommend to replace the sprocket nut washer at the same time.

 

you will get addicted to the machine, its sounds like a bag of bolts has been thrown into the engine but rev it up and saviour its wail, especially on illegal pipes:thumb: !

 

Sorry, about my list of qns.

 

But who is alan/gopa?

Where are they located?

Can they handle the newer machines(i.e '08 models)?

 

What parts are required for replacing during major servicing?

no worries, on brake pads and oil filters, all easily replaceable with jap ones.

 

Re-mapping ecu, who in Sillypore can do this well?

i need my engine fan to come on earlier, not the current 105 degrees suitable for uK weather. if im not wrong jap bikes come on at 95. At least this will help with the heat, and not to mention reduce engine wear at lower temps.

 

Tks in advance for your advice.

which model are u riding btw?

Most people go through life following the crowd.

 

Others think for themselves.

 

They go their own way.

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for older models, alan/gopa can handle the machines pretty well. i used to sent it to ah ta at mah but i understand he is no longer around.

 

the problem is sometimes sourcing for parts. i used to get all my parts from overseas and didn't even bother with mah.....for those who use bike daily as transport, some planning maybe required to reduce down time at the shop.

 

just do some research on line on the parts give uk/us a call/email and within 2weeks your parts are here.

 

for the FI models, they are similar unless you need to get the ECU remapped etc.

 

oil filter of old machines are similar to those of the honda cb750, get a K&N and you will be sorted for life. i think brake pads are similar to some honda models for the older t3 series. for those models, u do need an additional gasket if you want to change the front sprocket, also recommend to replace the sprocket nut washer at the same time.

 

you will get addicted to the machine, its sounds like a bag of bolts has been thrown into the engine but rev it up and saviour its wail, especially on illegal pipes:thumb: !

 

Wah finally a veteran to enlighten us :) I agree with you that the engine sounds like a bag of bolts in there sometimes, and that got me worried. But still, it is silky smooth on the move haha and yes, the wail is dam intoxicating. I got to do it at least once a day (rev it up from 4000rpm onwards in 6th gear), if not my day won't be complete! Hahahaha! I think I'm going crazy.

 

BTW I am using a Honda oil filter right now. Everything's the same except for the brand and it is $10 cheaper. $10 is a lot of difference to me hehe. Don't think it'll do any damage to the bike right?? Sorry for one noob question: What does the K&N filter do to the bike? How much does it cost roughly? Thanks.

 

So nice to see everyone contributing useful information in this thread :)

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Below the LOW not considered low?:giddy:

 

A few traffic lights in Spore I think low might become lowerrrrrrr......

 

But so far, even in jams, the gauge never show it overheat yet.

 

YET.

 

I surpose if the reservior is not empty or near empty, that means I still safe. I just need to top up the coolant, only need time to do it. Very busy these few days, I still havent paid my instalments yet.

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What does the K&N filter do to the bike? How much does it cost roughly? Thanks.

 

QUOTE]

 

K&N air filter is an aftermarket air filter, it ranges from sgd70-100 depending on bike, and will basically last you a lifetime as you clean and reuse as compared to use and throw for the paper one that the manufacturer provides. It also lets the bike breathe better, hence it is suppose to improve performance. This is one of the first things I usually change when I get a bike.

 

You need a little research on this one…we found out that the fiat doblo (panel van) filter fits the v11 moto guzzi…funny huh….you guys can try to consolidate a group order to save on shipping etc.

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzitech.dk/english/index.htm

 

1981 dt125

 

"its bad but not too bad"

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I surpose if the reservior is not empty or near empty, that means I still safe. I just need to top up the coolant, only need time to do it. Very busy these few days, I still havent paid my instalments yet.

 

Not safe leh, better go top up FAST. Safest is to drive there, buy coolant, top up into bike at home so that your bike won't have to go into high temperature hehe.

 

mr yohji,

I gonna get the brass elbow thing and a better aftermarket radiator cap. I see if it works and let you know.

 

Ok please give feedback :)

 

K&N air filter is an aftermarket air filter, it ranges from sgd70-100 depending on bike, and will basically last you a lifetime as you clean and reuse as compared to use and throw for the paper one that the manufacturer provides. It also lets the bike breathe better, hence it is suppose to improve performance. This is one of the first things I usually change when I get a bike.

 

You need a little research on this one…we found out that the fiat doblo (panel van) filter fits the v11 moto guzzi…funny huh….you guys can try to consolidate a group order to save on shipping etc.

 

Oh I see. $100 for a bike's life time should be a worth-while investment. Wow use car's filter for bike. Interesting. But don't car filters cost more than bike filters? That's what I think lah .. I might be wrong.

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I surpose if the reservior is not empty or near empty, that means I still safe. I just need to top up the coolant, only need time to do it. Very busy these few days, I still havent paid my instalments yet.

 

Wah risky. I fry and seized up engine before with near empty coolant.

Cost me many many money.

 

Your instalment due yet?

I think I pay mine next wk too.

When the baby mah gets back.

i need to see him personally to settle outstanding issues.

Most people go through life following the crowd.

 

Others think for themselves.

 

They go their own way.

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K&N air filter is an aftermarket air filter, it ranges from sgd70-100 depending on bike, and will basically last you a lifetime as you clean and reuse as compared to use and throw for the paper one that the manufacturer provides. It also lets the bike breathe better, hence it is suppose to improve performance. This is one of the first things I usually change when I get a bike.

 

 

KNNNNN filter tried on monster, aprilia and car.

 

Personally, though there is better airflow, there are a few downsides to this.

 

1. with the highflow comes a change in the A/F ratio which our underwear bikes cant self-learn and remap the mixtures. which in the end means unbalanced equation. if u want the underwear to run @ its best then this has to be fixed.

 

2. knnnnn filters need to be washed. And then oiled. washing alone is not enough. it needs to be oiled so dirt, dust gets trapped in the filter. i have tried oiling it very very very lightly, but after a week or 2, the inside of the airbox is oily. after the airbox, guess where the oil goes?

 

not good to be riding oily underwear right?

Most people go through life following the crowd.

 

Others think for themselves.

 

They go their own way.

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mr yohji,

I gonna get the brass elbow thing and a better aftermarket radiator cap. I see if it works and let you know.

 

 

radiator cap have alot of good trusted brands.

 

hks

greddy

avs racing

cusco

top secret

supercheap auto

autobahn

Most people go through life following the crowd.

 

Others think for themselves.

 

They go their own way.

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guys i'm still looking for a pair of pipes for my triple...still no luck on ebay or elswhr..

 

u looking for brand new or 2nd hand ones?

Most people go through life following the crowd.

 

Others think for themselves.

 

They go their own way.

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guys i'm still looking for a pair of pipes for my triple...still no luck on ebay or elswhr..

 

u looking for brand new or 2nd hand ones?

Most people go through life following the crowd.

 

Others think for themselves.

 

They go their own way.

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Im also tempted to get a low exhaust but the problem is legality issues.

 

Playing hide and seek with the cops is no fun.

 

I prefer to ride on the roads with a peace of mind.

 

Its not worth the fine either.

 

i understand this, but I mostly drive in malaysia, in singapore is very rare that i take the bike, as i have no fun driving between the cars, only in the evening I like riding...

 

byt he way I was on sepang track yesterday, wow the street is really great fun on track, easy and trustfull!!!! but I discovered that the low exhaust in touching the track when taking the right corner....grrrrrr:gun:

so now i am looking for a solution as this is really a problem.....i am sure i am not the only one with this problem..

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Hey minime, the Street Triple gets top ratings from bike journalists and riders all over the globe so you can be more or less rest assured :) The bike feels something inbetween a vtwin and an inline4. Best of both worlds I would say. Smooth, yet torquey enough.

 

I'm still getting used to the bike's sensitive throttle. The cornering capabilities are excellent! Don't have to worry about your foot pegs scraping the tarmac (well maybe I didn't go low enough, but I know I went quite low hehe). The Dunlop Qualifier tyres are very confidence inspiring once you learn how to lean the bike. They are actually track/road tyres! Right now the only complain I have is that I have to tip toe (not very cool, especially at traffic stops with girls looking haha!) but that's not the bike's fault :lol: As for the hot engine and exhausts, I think I've got used to it already (but I don't pillion, so I don't know how comfortable the pillion will be on this bike). When you are riding and having fun, you won't be bothered about that. Just ride faster if you feel too hot :lol:

 

As for servicing at which shop, I think it is a sensitive topic. All I can say is I have not done any servicing at the agent so far. But all I did was oil and filter change. Any reputable shop can do it. Nothing major that requires the expertise of the agent so far *touch wood*

 

Wow man .. 2 months .. I totally understand how you are feeling right now. It is not easy. Try to do something which can kill time (watching youtube, sleep more, work OT) hehe!!

 

A couple of pics from yesterday. Went riding with my bro-in-law.

 

http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/4287/dsc00470sl7.jpg

 

http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/1251/dsc00469la6.jpg

 

I am sure you can find others to do the job, but the problem is the warranty, if you have a problem ( which normally you should not have as this bike is sooooo good...;) and you have done all the servicing by a non triumph agent, than they will not take your bike under warranty...this is no fun when really having a big problem...so better go to the agent during the warranty period..

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