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[Group] TRIUMPH Speed Triple Riders


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If i remember correctly, even if they give you free servicing, it's only free for labour. You still have to pay for the parts, I.e engine oil, oil filter etc.

 

thats standard for all shops.

 

 

even for the 1st servicing after run in??

 

no man, unfortunately, ZERO free servicing.

 

and when I mention servicing, Im referring to the basic, oil & filter plus the basic checking of idle, brake & coolant levels, wear on tyres, air pressure, levers' freeplay, etc when the bike is still in running in stage.

Most people go through life following the crowd.

 

Others think for themselves.

 

They go their own way.

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I finally have the energy to come here. Been busy with work and now deployed for SYOG duties.

 

Congratulations Raymond, on your new GTR on 2 wheels :lol: It's about time for me to change my rubber ... hopefully got enough $$$ to change them within 1-2mths :(

 

 

 

Yeah If you buy a new Harley, a 2-years service package is included. Almost everything is free, except for brake pads and tyres (and maybe some other consumables).

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outside :)

 

only for warranty issues then bring it back.

 

which can be pretty frequent if ure fussy :D

 

Where do you do your servicing?

 

Im not that fussy i suppose..

Im going to set the rev limit to higer.. its so irritating at nite when cruising at 95kph, and the damn blue light blinds me...

next will be the DB killers... hehehe

 

Oh, for anyone intending to get the zard slip ons.. the legal one is already loud enuff.. my neighbour's R1 is abt the same sound with my DB killer on.. i cant wait to remove it.. lol

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I finally have the energy to come here. Been busy with work and now deployed for SYOG duties.

 

Congratulations Raymond, on your new GTR on 2 wheels :lol: It's about time for me to change my rubber ... hopefully got enough $$$ to change them within 1-2mths :(

 

 

 

Yeah If you buy a new Harley, a 2-years service package is included. Almost everything is free, except for brake pads and tyres (and maybe some other consumables).

 

GTR on 2 wheels? I think a bit too much lah.. this is not a busa leh..

 

:p

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Where do you do your servicing?

 

 

different places for different purposes.

 

if its just oil & filter most places with decent prices will take care of your bike.

 

but its mechanical non-warranty issues there are a no. of ppl who are familiar with triumph as most of the parts are actually jap, nissin brakes, ecu, etc.

Most people go through life following the crowd.

 

Others think for themselves.

 

They go their own way.

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I find the run in process prob the most impt stage of an engine's life to get longevitiy in engine components and optimum hp & torque.

 

Being a firm believer of a soft run-ins(following manufactuers specs), the dyno readings I had from my previous & currents bike/car is usually on par or slighter higher than most stock readings at the wheel.

 

I have re-dynoed the bike/cars at 15,000km-20,000km odo readings and still read no loss in power compared to friends with alot lower mileage who followed the hard run in procedures. These were stock vs stock bike/car comparisons.

 

Semi-syn oils are impt for the first couple of oil changes.

Rule of thumb, the switch to fully syn can be after 3000 or even 5000km.

The property of the oils allows proper bedding in of valve seals among many things and in summary, ensure combustion cycles are as efficient as possible.

 

One of the major causes of lost in power is lost of compression in the cylinders.

 

The other impt part of running in are the rpm range and duration it is in, then there is also running in for the gearbox.

 

Motul is a good oil! 300V is pricey but one of the better fully syn ones around.

 

Have fun running in! :)

Most people go through life following the crowd.

 

Others think for themselves.

 

They go their own way.

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I find the run in process prob the most impt stage of an engine's life to get longevitiy in engine components and optimum hp & torque.

 

Being a firm believer of a soft run-ins(following manufactuers specs), the dyno readings I had from my previous & currents bike/car is usually on par or slighter higher than most stock readings at the wheel.

 

I have re-dynoed the bike/cars at 15,000km-20,000km odo readings and still read no loss in power compared to friends with alot lower mileage who followed the hard run in procedures. These were stock vs stock bike/car comparisons.

 

Semi-syn oils are impt for the first couple of oil changes.

Rule of thumb, the switch to fully syn can be after 3000 or even 5000km.

The property of the oils allows proper bedding in of valve seals among many things and in summary, ensure combustion cycles are as efficient as possible.

 

One of the major causes of lost in power is lost of compression in the cylinders.

 

The other impt part of running in are the rpm range and duration it is in, then there is also running in for the gearbox.

 

Motul is a good oil! 300V is pricey but one of the better fully syn ones around.

 

Have fun running in! :)

 

With regards to running in, there has always been long debates of which is best suited. I unforuntately do not follow both school of thoughts, although i tend to move closer to what motorman does in his article.

I normally rev max to abt 60% of the rev counter and not wanting to exceed that. I do vary my rev alot during the run in, trying to use different gear to load the engine at various rev. While it may be not the norm among most, i find no loss of power. I do feel the 1st servicing is important and shld be done earlier then later. With the new technology of engine buiding, there are very little metal shavings found in the oil..

I do endorse using semi syn oil for 1st oil change (mineral previously) for both my cars and bikes, and this seems to work well.

now i am doing most gears to ard 6k rpm with a with burst bring it up to ard 8k rpm.. but its so hard to stop... :lol:

 

I was wondering (owning my 1st brand new bike) what semi syn oil are there out in the market? Shld i expect the semi syn oil to run slightly hoter then the fully syn ones?

 

I am not sure how much the motul v300 oil are for bikes, but on my car they cost ard 38per litre which i wont stinge.. i rather pay abit more and be paying afew grand for a overhaul...

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the oils only do part of the job, the driver is the impt bit.

 

I have tried both hard and soft run in same model cars and tested compression after 25,000kms to notice a significant difference, and the power lost was already apparently on the dynos.

 

Taking the engine apart for both bottom and top end overhauls, the extra wear on the pistons heads, cylinder walls are visible.

 

I have also seen the same effect in airplane and helicopter engines. These engines have no room for failure and zero tolerance for lack of care.

Most people go through life following the crowd.

 

Others think for themselves.

 

They go their own way.

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i was just wondering those street triple owner, what is normal bar indicator on the bike?

I see 6 bar for most of the time.

 

During warm up it goes to 5bar in like 3mins..

 

imust admit i have not check the coolent levels yet...

Just wondering what ppl get..

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this is part of running in, like a vagina, it just gets loose with more use :)

 

One way of putting it, not sure if I would use the same comparison though.

 

Most important is not put the engine under too much load, as in wide open throttle in 6th gear at low kph speeds as well as keeping the revs lowish.

 

I guess that the motors you mention in helicopters etc, have no choice other than to receive 100% demand from the start. Never seen a helicopter motor so I,ll shut up.

 

There is a lot of debate about running in but I really have to agree that its best to be gentle for some time, before giving it a prolonged good thrashing. Gradually increasing the load.

I,m talking about engines here and not the other as mentioned above.

Forever the Foreigner

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i was just wondering those street triple owner, what is normal bar indicator on the bike?

I see 6 bar for most of the time.

 

During warm up it goes to 5bar in like 3mins..

 

imust admit i have not check the coolent levels yet...

Just wondering what ppl get..

 

Yes around 6-7 bars, depending on the amount of time standing.

 

I have noticed that the bars rise quite quickly from cold.

Forever the Foreigner

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hi guys, would like to ask if its a norm to remove the exup valve???Not too sure of the benefit but am aware of things after reading the overseas forum on daytona 675..Thing is my ECU light(the orange colour) came up and was wondering wat it could be and from wat iread most daytona owners will face this and most are concluded with a freeze exup valve..

 

I would want to go to MAH as a last resort if Meng Tong was still there i would have gone there asap, but he isnt and the other guy dun seem to put much dedication to work...anyone have any suggestions?:weep:

Those Who Don't Know Pain

Can Never Know True Peace

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One way of putting it, not sure if I would use the same comparison though.

 

Most important is not put the engine under too much load, as in wide open throttle in 6th gear at low kph speeds as well as keeping the revs lowish.

 

I guess that the motors you mention in helicopters etc, have no choice other than to receive 100% demand from the start. Never seen a helicopter motor so I,ll shut up.

 

There is a lot of debate about running in but I really have to agree that its best to be gentle for some time, before giving it a prolonged good thrashing. Gradually increasing the load.

I,m talking about engines here and not the other as mentioned above.

 

LOL... with the above above mention... it shld be thrashing it as soon as u get it..

depending if you own it or pick it up as u go...

 

:angel:

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Yes around 6-7 bars, depending on the amount of time standing.

 

I have noticed that the bars rise quite quickly from cold.

 

So far i have not seen 7bars yet. I think the max is 8..

Read the manual it says normal is 3-5bar.. so was a bit concern.

 

I also notice that during warm up, the rev doesnt actually increase.

It seems to be holding stable at 1k rpm throughout.. Is that normal?

I thought it suppose to hover at a higher rev then ease back after its warm up?

I notice this is the case for the ducatis..

 

Last one, anyone did anything with the heat from the exhaust? I wore shorts the other day and damn i can feel the heat...

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I don't notice the heat, the bike has carbon covered Zards on it , you can put your hand on the cans whilst the pipes are maximum temp.

 

My tickover has gone a bit mad, when I got the bike it had 5000km on it and tickover was what you say. Now it likes to stall when pulling the clutch in when coming to a stop, keep it running and it maintains 1000rpm (ish) on tick over.

Will be going to the shop with it soon.

Forever the Foreigner

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LOL... with the above above mention... it shld be thrashing it as soon as u get it..

depending if you own it or pick it up as u go...

 

:angel:

 

;)

From my experience, I think that an immediate thrash is in order for a used one as it will be have been reasonably well run in by then. So nothing to worry about there.

Trouble is trying to assess the previous history , especially if its a bit of a slapper and smokes a lot.

 

 

I better get back to work actually.

Forever the Foreigner

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Hi peeps...I just met and chat with a super cool dude on a triumph street triple and he did mention about triumph owners looking for R&G parts..well,im the dealer of R&G in singapore for the past 2.5 months,check out sbf advertisers board #97 personified motosports

 

cheers

:cheers:

 

btw i waiting for my triumph too..a 675 daytona on the way!!! yeah!!!:thumb:

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