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Engine etiquette


Guest BoBOKik

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hey tis article is even easier to understand den wat my article was tryin to say.. kudos to buja :thumb:

 

no offense dude but i have a little doubt about the credibility of the authors of these articles. :confused:

 

issit possible to find some form of identification or at least some hearsay truth from first hand experience in running in engines in this "breakthrough" way?

 

even if it was the truth... i'd put my money on the tried and true "easy break in" bcos thats how everybody does it, its recommended by the manufacturer. but most imptly... bcos we fear wat might happen if we played it rough on our new bikes. Wat if it caused a seizure? who are you going to hold responsible?

 

Nobody will be responsible for your imprudence except yourself.

 

if some form of scholarly study or engineering research by academics on this subject officially showed signs of advantages in these new break in methods, then it would ease a lot of queeziness on my part. till then... i'm not risking my brand new engine and a few hundred hardearned bucks.

 

speaking of scholarlies... The manufacturers of these bikes hail from Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawasaki and the likes. To be able to be part of the technial research team of engineers in these awesome companies require smoe Extreme engineering education and PhD's and MB.Sc's. These are the experts of the world in engine performances, NOT THE PRIVATE COMPANIES. If the manufacturer recommended something, there must have been a reason for it, if not they wouldn bother wasting their precious time making useless recommendations only to be ridiculed abt.

 

In the MotoMan webbie, the webmaster criticised the manufacturers recommendations... With what credibility does he make such austentious comments?? Is he saying he knows better than the manufacturers? Then why isn he working with Honda proposing his concept in all new bike recommendations? :sian:

Sitting on my hands... Must... Not... Rebutt...!! [email protected]

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Guest BoBOKik

well.. its all up to u to believe anot.. it will be a nvr ending argument, everybody have their own view... like how science n religon dont alway agreed wif each other...

 

so if u have yr doubts jus treat tis article as some interesting n entertainin readin material, dat oppose normal logics.... :smile:

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well.. its all up to u to believe anot.. it will be a nvr ending argument, everybody have their own view... like how science n religon dont alway agreed wif each other...

 

so if u have yr doubts jus treat tis article as some interesting n entertainin readin material, dat oppose normal logics.... :smile:

 

agreed. :cheer:

Sitting on my hands... Must... Not... Rebutt...!! [email protected]

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well.. its all up to u to believe anot.. it will be a nvr ending argument, everybody have their own view... like how science n religon dont alway agreed wif each other...

 

so if u have yr doubts jus treat tis article as some interesting n entertainin readin material, dat oppose normal logics.... :smile:

 

Science and religion do agree with each other! In recent years, science has made some serious breakthroughs to agree with the Bible. If interested to find out more, read up on Gerald Schroeder's 'The Science of God'.

 

Cheers mate!

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Guest BoBOKik

 

Science and religion do agree with each other! In recent years, science has made some serious breakthroughs to agree with the Bible. If interested to find out more, read up on Gerald Schroeder's 'The Science of God'.

 

Cheers mate!

 

haha tks for the info but hor.. we will be goin :offtopic:, if we cont to discuss here..

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Science and religion do agree with each other! In recent years, science has made some serious breakthroughs to agree with the Bible. If interested to find out more, read up on Gerald Schroeder's 'The Science of God'.

 

Cheers mate!

 

my goodness please dun start on that topic...

 

World War 3 might break out. :sian:

Sitting on my hands... Must... Not... Rebutt...!! [email protected]

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  • 1 month later...

With reference to the controversial articles brought out by BoBokik and Buja and the reply by feng125, may I suggest that everybody is right in a certain way. Cos....perhaps.....when one gets a new car or bike, the vehicle would have a done a certain mileage ...50 to 100 km? So where did this mileage come from? "That is a good question".

This could have been the scenario: A new bike is born. The Jap engineers have to test it to ensure that it runs smoothly. Hence they would rev the engine hard! This in turn, break in the engine for the 1st 20 miles or so. Having bedded in the piston ring 80%, they then discard the engine oil. So, when we get the new bike there is now no need to rev the engine anymore. Normal riding conditions will run in the final 20%. ....anyway Bobo and Buja have done a great job :bounce: :bounce: :bounce:

The miracle isn\'t that you finished....the miracle is that you

had the courage to <span style=\'font-size:27pt;line-height:100%\'>START

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  • 4 weeks later...

Does this run-in method apply on 2-stroke engines?

 

For example, if I just did a top end overhaul on my RXZ, can I use this method?

RXZ NSR150SP SV650 CBR400RR GSXR1000 FZ6S VFR800 CBR1000RR R1200GS

Galant ES 2.4A Civic Si 2.0A

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  • 1 month later...

Please DO NOT apply the Mototune USA break in method to 2 strokes.

 

The truth sometimes hurt. It's not easy to accept running a brand new bike progressively hard as the 'best' way of breaking in a new bike. Please allow for the sharing of my experiences utilizing motoman's break in method...

 

I recently had the chance to break in my brand new K3 via the mototune method. I utilized motoman's Dyno method on the street, sticking solely with 2nd gear for the entire duration of his method after which I turned off the bike and allowed it to cool down to ambient temperature.

 

I then followed up in addition to his break in method by accelerating and decelerating the bike hard (1/2 to 3/4 throttle) in the first 3 gears, never exceeding 10k rpm for the first 500km and 12k rpm for 1000km. I make it a point to cool down completely to ambient temperature and stick to 10-15 minutes of hard running everytime.

 

My K3 is currently clocked at 1189km on the odometer. I had the chance to break in a friend's brand new K3 yesterday, also with the mototune method. What really surprised me was the fact that my bike actually felt more powerful. It was less 'tight' resulting in the the throttle reving more freely. My engine also seemed more powerful comparatively at various RPMs and gears.

 

Granted, comparison is unfair without the aid of a Dyno machine or some other BHP measuring equipment. But I am disclaiming that as this is purely just a relation of my experiences. Personally, it has been very fruitful. No only does my bike seem to run faster now, it also revs much more freely. And all that while it's still on MINERAL based oil!

 

 

Please WARM UP totally everytime before running the bike hard. Change oil and filter before the first 32km and as much as possible there after. I've changed my oil and filter 5 times already throughout my entire break in and EVERY oil change had metal flakes floating around in the oil and small particles depositing at the bottom of the oil drain pan... Stick only to MINERAL based oil for the first 2400km as recommanded by motoman. Good luck! :D

 

For more information regarding motoman's break in method, visit

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

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  • 4 weeks later...
Please DO NOT apply the Mototune USA break in method to 2 strokes.

 

The truth sometimes hurt. It's not easy to accept running a brand new bike progressively hard as the 'best' way of breaking in a new bike. Please allow for the sharing of my experiences utilizing motoman's break in method...

 

I recently had the chance to break in my brand new K3 via the mototune method. I utilized motoman's Dyno method on the street, sticking solely with 2nd gear for the entire duration of his method after which I turned off the bike and allowed it to cool down to ambient temperature.

 

I then followed up in addition to his break in method by accelerating and decelerating the bike hard (1/2 to 3/4 throttle) in the first 3 gears, never exceeding 10k rpm for the first 500km and 12k rpm for 1000km. I make it a point to cool down completely to ambient temperature and stick to 10-15 minutes of hard running everytime.

 

My K3 is currently clocked at 1189km on the odometer. I had the chance to break in a friend's brand new K3 yesterday, also with the mototune method. What really surprised me was the fact that my bike actually felt more powerful. It was less 'tight' resulting in the the throttle reving more freely. My engine also seemed more powerful comparatively at various RPMs and gears.

 

Granted, comparison is unfair without the aid of a Dyno machine or some other BHP measuring equipment. But I am disclaiming that as this is purely just a relation of my experiences. Personally, it has been very fruitful. No only does my bike seem to run faster now, it also revs much more freely. And all that while it's still on MINERAL based oil!

 

 

Please WARM UP totally everytime before running the bike hard. Change oil and filter before the first 32km and as much as possible there after. I've changed my oil and filter 5 times already throughout my entire break in and EVERY oil change had metal flakes floating around in the oil and small particles depositing at the bottom of the oil drain pan... Stick only to MINERAL based oil for the first 2400km as recommanded by motoman. Good luck! :D

 

For more information regarding motoman's break in method, visit

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

So how to we run-in a 2 Stroke bike properly ??

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even if u think the hard breaking applies, its too late coz the 1st 30 km is the most crucial part of the hard breakin in method.

 

Can you clearly describe the entire procedure instead of bluntly saying it's too late ??

I'm sure other 2 stroke riders here will benefit from your knowledge of bikes whether or not it's too late.

 

First 30km ?? Are you going to say to change the oil after that ??

Why ? Does the engine oil coat the piston like it does on a 4 stroker ??

 

Please give us riders proper reasoning behind the whole logic. Don't leave us in the dark.

 

Cheers !

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  • 1 month later...
Guest BoBOKik
the website mention say use petroluem for breaking in?

err in which part of the website did he mentioned aabt using petroluem for breaking in???

 

Does it refers to minerals oil? Where to get it?

 

err minerals oil = non-synthetic engin oil..

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Haha, always kanna from others when riding smaller CC bikes, so try try when I got a bigger bike. Engine feels a little....stiff after a while. Never knew why but that puts me off doing it too often. Good for giving some DRIVERS a wake up call... :D especially those with their windows wind down and techno loud loud, weaving in and out of traffic at 100km/h as if that proves their skills very good. :mad:

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Haha, always kanna from others when riding smaller CC bikes, so try try when I got a bigger bike. Engine feels a little....stiff after a while. Never knew why but that puts me off doing it too often. Good for giving some DRIVERS a wake up call... :D especially those with their windows wind down and techno loud loud, weaving in and out of traffic at 100km/h as if that proves their skills very good. :mad:

 

as if bikers dun do that..... :sweat:

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It is a lot more intimidating for a car to do that ya know. :mad:

 

A vehicle the size of a car doing what a bike normally does. HMMMMM. :pity:

 

It's still a road hazard no matter what.

Be it bike or car or bus or lorry or van or trailer.

 

Cheers !

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  • 2 weeks later...
:smile: To any1 out there, I am currently riding Super4 and notice that I need to compress my start key the 2nd time before my bike can really start. :mad: It alway die off the 1st time I press the start button. :giddy: Does any1 out there know the reason behind this & how can I prevent this????????/ :? :?
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