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[Technical] Queries for TA200


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Thank you all for your replies. And sorry i did not make my question clear.

According to my seniors, It is just perfectly fine machanically. There is no knocking or any other kind of unexpected noise.

It is just bit of loud, like what those racing guys produced to show the power. So what I wonder is , whether their is some simple way to make it more quiet.

 

Thank you all guys

 

do u have any side boxes? wen i 1st had my saddle bag, my exhaust actually sound softer, when i remove my saddle bag, i can hear the powerful sound... but anyways its music to my ears :cheeky:

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Think that's Dangerous too! Correct me if I'm wrong. Cheers!

Its up to the individual. It worked fine for me when I was riding my Harley.

BlackDawn aka kiamh

"There is no man more free than the one who doesn't give a damn what society thinks of him"

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Think that's Dangerous too! Correct me if I'm wrong. Cheers!

 

its very normal to wear ear plugs while riding... the bike can be so loud that it poise a health problem over time... occasionally I would wear my ear plugs... :smile:

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Overhaul? Full overhaul?

I just did top overhaul...change piston, reboring block or something...just the top part, $390 @ Planet.

http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/pp169/lawlietvashie/Vashie4.jpg

Class 2B - 29th March 2010 [30th April 2010 - Phantom]

Class 3 - 4th June 2008

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Need help from the masters of phantom out there.

 

There's a weird sound coming from my engine. It sounds like a loose nut inside my engine. It happened after i changed my engine oil (Motul300v - $28 @ Planet). I wonder if it's the engine oil, or issit something else which spoilt. I get this sound sometimes when i start my engine, but once i ride and my engine warms up, this sound goes away.

 

I just wanna know if it's safe for me to continue riding (i have been riding one week with this problem, I don't have time to visit Dr Chong until this coming weekend) - until I have a chance to visit Dr Chong @ Planet this Saturday (I work on weekdays).

 

Any bros got any advice?

 

Video 1 (Transition from normal sound to weird sound - take note at 0:19)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x973KJnstFM

 

 

Video 2 (Just the weird sound after startup)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Dx9sEwkxA4

 

Thanks!

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i am no professional but i think that ur cam chain tensioner might b spoilt... n if u dun get it changed asap, ur engine might go to... haha... i am really no pro, but this is my guess... changing chain tensioner costs $65, overhaul, $380... make ur choice, haha... from my opinion, ur bike is not safe to b ridden, might make it worse... :)

 

if what i said is wrong, pls do correct me... :)

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Okay that is -really- loud. It's time for appointment with Dr Chong!

 

Ps. When you ride does the sound go away after a while? Or only when cold starting?

 

Hi Bro... when i ride it goes away after awhile... but usually when the engine is hot this sound goes away. Cold start 80% will get the sound immediately. the other 20% the sound comes after i run the engine for 20sec. :(:(:(

 

oh btw i used an overkill motul 300V 5W40 coz i wanted to give my bike something nice for a change. Could that have been the cause?

Edited by itsybitsyspidy
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Hi Bro... when i ride it goes away after awhile... but usually when the engine is hot this sound goes away. Cold start 80% will get the sound immediately. the other 20% the sound comes after i run the engine for 20sec. :(:(:(

 

oh btw i used an overkill motul 300V 5W40 coz i wanted to give my bike something nice for a change. Could that have been the cause?

 

 

Valve clearances are out of recommended range. As the engine warms up, the sound reduces or even disappears as the valves expand giving you normal valve clearance. I believe a top service should be enough to ensure normal running.

 

 

There is also a lubrication component of this issue: For aircooled engines it is recommended to stick to 10W40/50, PKs seem to like 15W50s too in the form of Motul Semi Synthetic 5100. Why?

 

Aircooled engines like ours have greater manufacturing tolerances.

 

Your current 5W means that the oil is of a very low viscosity (ie, very light) when cold, and it may not be giving the type of protection our ancient engines need, that a thicker oil provides. The 5W has a very fast cold flow rate but is simply not thick enough to 'stick' to the top end of the engine, thus creating that massive racket on startup.

 

I'm hoping that changing the oil back to a heavier type will dampen the sound, if not, it will not hurt to do a valve clearance check and adjustment if it's necessary.

 

For a future synthetic oil type I can recommend either the Motul 300V 10W40 type (the heavier rating), or Chex9000 fully synthetic 10W40 at $16 only.

 

Chex gives all the benefits of a synthetic oil and does not have a tendency to evaporate under heavy loads. And it's cheap!

 

But the best part about Chex is it's cold start performance. The oil is 10W40 but behaves like a heavier oil grade (very thick film) when cold, and warms up very fast for maximum flow.

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Valve clearances are out of recommended range. As the engine warms up, the sound reduces or even disappears as the valves expand giving you normal valve clearance. I believe a top service should be enough to ensure normal running.

 

 

There is also a lubrication component of this issue: For aircooled engines it is recommended to stick to 10W40/50, PKs seem to like 15W50s too in the form of Motul Semi Synthetic 5100. Why?

 

Aircooled engines like ours have greater manufacturing tolerances.

 

Your current 5W means that the oil is of a very low viscosity (ie, very light) when cold, and it may not be giving the type of protection our ancient engines need, that a thicker oil provides. The 5W has a very fast cold flow rate but is simply not thick enough to 'stick' to the top end of the engine, thus creating that massive racket on startup.

 

I'm hoping that changing the oil back to a heavier type will dampen the sound, if not, it will not hurt to do a valve clearance check and adjustment if it's necessary.

 

For a future synthetic oil type I can recommend either the Motul 300V 10W40 type (the heavier rating), or Chex9000 fully synthetic 10W40 at $16 only.

 

Chex gives all the benefits of a synthetic oil and does not have a tendency to evaporate under heavy loads. And it's cheap!

 

But the best part about Chex is it's cold start performance. The oil is 10W40 but behaves like a heavier oil grade (very thick film) when cold, and warms up very fast for maximum flow.

 

Thanks alot Kalyan! I just did a check and realised my EO was 300V 10W50 after all. Thanks for recommended Chex 9000. I saw it just now at Planet when i went to fix my bike.

 

Turns out that armani123sg was right. It was the cam chain tensioner. But the mechanic told me lucky my "engine chain" (dunno what's that) still long enough. But he say probably in a few month's time will need to change that. Can further enlighten me on what's that?

 

So i just changed my cam chain tensioner ($55) and the weird sound went away. Glad that my bike is running fine for now.

 

Thanks everyone for the great help!

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Ah, I'm a Phantom newbie too lol, and will probably want to inspect the tensioner when I pass 10,000km. Thanks for the quick feedback and servicing report :3

 

Oil is fine, infact like you said, should be overkill. I don't think anyone can safely use 5W or even 0W oils in tropical weather. Not even for the fuel saving effect of a lightweight oil.

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Any tips to reduce vibration on the TA200..using fully synthetic oil such as Motul 300v helps.how about effect of different brands of petrol?any other additives or parts that helps??

maybe we should start a new topic as this will be faced by everyone..

Bajaj Pulsar 180 - May 2006 - May 2007

Hyosung Comet GT125- June 2008 - January 2010

Honda Phantom TA 200- January 2010 - 2012

Honda CB 400 Ver S - 2012 - Jan 2016

Adiva AD2 200 - Jan 2016 - July 2016

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1. Change sprockets to enable lower RPM highway cruising

2. Use Shell V Power

3. Don't ride Phantom like NSR (unless you're on TA150)

4. Modify intake for greater torque

5. Water injection for fuel-air charge cooling. Once again, engine produces greater power per stroke, less throttle needed to reach a specific speed = no vibrations. don't look at me, it works :D

 

Don't do 4 unless you want a lecture from me from airbox/carb physics, and don't do 5 unless you know 1943 aircraft engine technology (and I can give lecture on that too :D)

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he is refering to your main transmission chain...that one that next to your left leg when u r on your bike...

 

he is saying your chain has lengthen too much..cannot adjust to the correct tension anymore..grown longer...its about time u get a new set.

 

thanks bro. but heng havent "grow" too long yet. still can dong another few mths i hope. haha :cheeky:

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1. Change sprockets to enable lower RPM highway cruising

2. Use Shell V Power

3. Don't ride Phantom like NSR (unless you're on TA150)

4. Modify intake for greater torque

5. Water injection for fuel-air charge cooling. Once again, engine produces greater power per stroke, less throttle needed to reach a specific speed = no vibrations. don't look at me, it works :D

 

Don't do 4 unless you want a lecture from me from airbox/carb physics, and don't do 5 unless you know 1943 aircraft engine technology (and I can give lecture on that too :D)

 

I must say I've experienced lesser vibrations after switching to that overkill 300v 10W50. May it's just me.... :cheeky:

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Lol synthetics ARE superior in terms of protection and high temperature / shear resistance.

 

I must say I'm not disappointed with my first synthetic oil - Chex9000. No idea how it works but it's thick and flows fast at the same time = quiet idling, excellent protection at high rpms. German sorcery.

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1. Change sprockets to enable lower RPM highway cruising

2. Use Shell V Power

3. Don't ride Phantom like NSR (unless you're on TA150)

4. Modify intake for greater torque

5. Water injection for fuel-air charge cooling. Once again, engine produces greater power per stroke, less throttle needed to reach a specific speed = no vibrations. don't look at me, it works :D

 

Don't do 4 unless you want a lecture from me from airbox/carb physics, and don't do 5 unless you know 1943 aircraft engine technology (and I can give lecture on that too :D)

 

 

thanks, will try the vpower..vpower kinda caused my old comet 125 some issues when i used it.so was stayin away from it..

then does increasing idling help??one mech said it helps, but engine will overheat pretty fast...

wat else?suspension settings??getting rid of the boxes/crashguard???

Bajaj Pulsar 180 - May 2006 - May 2007

Hyosung Comet GT125- June 2008 - January 2010

Honda Phantom TA 200- January 2010 - 2012

Honda CB 400 Ver S - 2012 - Jan 2016

Adiva AD2 200 - Jan 2016 - July 2016

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Increasing idling - don't do it, unless you like reaching under the fuel tank every traffic light stop. Recommended not to use idling settings as 'cruise control' unless bike is having major backfiring problems and can't engine brake safely.

 

That's because if you're at high idle and have to wait 5 mins at traffic light lol, its wasting lots of fuel!

 

And on the highway for safety reasons and also to conserve mechanical braking power / brake pad life, you do need the engine braking.

 

Accessories weight etc... actually the reverse is true. My extra wide sidebox mountings absorb all the vibration leaving mine feeling like a 2 stroke when moving. More weight = suspension absorbs more bumps (strange but it's true).

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can tell me more about cam chain tensioner ?? what are the signs that it needs to be changed???

 

Been sometime since i replaced that already.

JOSHUA

class2B -26/2/09

class 2A -27/7/10

class 3 - 6/1/11

class 2 - 30/8/12

 

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