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CB250 Nighthawk, Following  

17 members have voted

  1. 1. CB250 Nighthawk, Following

    • Coe sufficient
    • Modding potential
    • Parts availability
    • Plugs change frequency
    • Engine oil type and change frequency
    • Lifespan of original parts
    • Flexibility of cheaper parts use
    • Moifying potential
    • Able to use any grade of petrol fuel
    • Potential for 4 rounds of COE
    • Easy to pass inspection
    • Low road tax
    • Daily ride potential
    • Low fuel consumption
    • Ease of maintenance
    • Ease of riding


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I have gotten a 1998 super four and need help identifying what parts the previous owner has used. At a guess it has a cbr600 rim and they have used a cbr250rr mc19 sprocket carrier hub. The cbr250 hub doesn't fit perfect but it works ok.

I'm happy to swap the hub with a different one if anyone knows of a better option?

This is the most detailed cb400sf forum on the net so looking forwarded to leaning from you guys.

 

http://i68.tinypic.com/14jngx5.jpg

 

http://i67.tinypic.com/2v8ic91.jpg

 

http://i63.tinypic.com/8y5po6.jpg

 

http://i67.tinypic.com/1497fuq.jpg

 

http://i66.tinypic.com/nv17y0.jpg

 

Just want to check with you what do you intend to do with the current rear rim? I believe at the moment its fitted with 180/55 sized tyre as you say its fitted with 5.5inch rim...I cant really see clearly as the pictures are not that clear...

Do you want to go back to the original size rim or what's your plans?

Its a 1998 super 400sf....The original sized tyres are 110/70 front and 140/70 rear....

Are you using a modified swing arm?...looks original though...cheers

I ride at 70km/hr only...please please dont blow2 at me or overtake me dangerously....wait i change into Incredible Hulk n dont know why my little baby bike will always be ahead of u if u do that

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Thanx for replying to my post. I found out its the rim and sprocket carrier from a 250 hornet. We don't have them in Australia and no one I showed recognised it.

Its the original swing arm and I'll keep this setup as it never caused me problems. Plus I like the look ;)

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  • 3 months later...

Hi Brohers & Sisters;)

 

Am planning to buy a new bike but would kindly need some of your advise.

 

My 1st and trusty bike till now COE extended was a RXZ i bought in 2005, Can say considered paid in full as it was thru my company loan with very low2 interest rate on the 95% of the bike price OTR and3 years later bike was fully paid.

 

Passed my 2A last year and after close to 13 years riding my RXZ, As mentioned it’s time for a change and i have set my mind on a new S4 Revo.

 

1. So S4 Revo is the latest bike model right?

2. Am thinking of getting a 100% loan without deposit with loan tenure of 4-5 years, What is the current market interest rate like?

3. Am staying in Punggol, Where should i go to start rekee bike prices...

4. Any other tips and advise i should know, Please fell free to share away for my knowledged.

 

Thank you inadvanced for reading😊

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just got my 2A license and decided to get a used super four. From what I noticed from the market, older Spec 3 seems very expensive compare to newer Revo? Most of them are selling at $13-15k (even those '05 or '06), while I can find a '08 Revo easily at $5.5k-6.5k, then renew the COE @ around $5k, add up only $11-12K? May I know what's the reason Spec 3 is so expensive?

 

My budget is below $8.5K on next purchase:

1) spec2 coe '22/23,$7k+

2) revo '07/08,$5-6k+

3) revo '09/10/11,$8k+

 

Any advise? Thanks. :weep:

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  • 3 weeks later...

I believe it's because the spec 3 is the last carburettor model for the Super4 family. Revo onwards is using EFI controlled by ECU. Carburetted bikes are mechanically/electronically simpler as compared to EFI... From what I read, if you need to change your key set on a Revo, ECU needs to be replaced as well as it's programmed together.

 

And from what i heard, the earlier Revo models have several electrical/wiring issues. That could be why they're cheaper than the newer Revos.

 

Nonetheless, it's just hearsay... I could be wrong since I don't have proper facts :/

 

I too am looking for a Super4... Spec 3 in fact hehehe...

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi guys,

 

I need some advise. I laid up my super 4 spec 2 (registered july 2002) and till date it has been 6 months. I disconnected the battery and never touched it. There is a lil fuel in the tank to avoid rust. Now im gonna send for inspection and start riding again. Newd advise on what do i do to get the bike running in good condition and then slowly do the less priority.

 

I would think these are the few... please do advise if any add ons in order of priority. Thanks so much!

 

- change engine oil

- do i recharge bat since i change new battery before dc?

- flush out brake fluid and top up new

- spark plug

- chain and spocket changed to brand new before lay up.

- rubber tubings (scared wear and tear) - i changed sometime some low quality as coolen leaked.

- carburator (what do i do?)

 

Anything else? If someone can, pls do prioritize the things i need to do and price. Relatively a newbie to super 4 and i want to get hands on with my bike. Thanks in advance for letting me understand the bike more!

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  • 2 weeks later...

- change engine oil (definitely)

- do i recharge bat since i change new battery before dc? (surely need to recharge, if its fully charged i would be surprised really)

 

- flush out brake fluid and top up new (not necessary, probably just do a bleeding)

 

- spark plug (depends on condition can just do an check)

 

- chain and spocket changed to brand new before lay up. (nothing to see here)

 

- rubber tubings (scared wear and tear) - i changed sometime some low quality as coolen leaked.

 

- carburator (what do i do?) (in my opinion just do normal servicing and check tuning)

 

left my bike unmoved for 6 months, so i basically did the normal servicing.

 

in addition,

 

check tyres for deformation incase its been in a stagnant position all while

flush coolant as stagnation may cause it to deteriorate.

 

thats all i can remember for now. GL

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Hi guys, it's my first post here!

 

I just passed 2A recently and want to get a used CB400.

 

Should I get an older spec (S/1/2) to save cost, but risk of more wear and tear, or should I spend more to get spec 3/revo?

 

I don't have plans to get a Class 2 bike yet, but I will definitely go for the license.

 

Probably gonna ride CB400 for 1-3 years at least.

 

Thanks!

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Congrats on passing 2A!

 

I bought a spec 1 for 3k+ last year. Although an older bike will cost less upfront, be prepared to spend more on maintaining it. For my bike, I spent 1.5k afterwards to repair and replace the important parts like brake pads and cylinders, lights, tyres, chain, and a few others. So far I've been riding it for a few months and it hasn't given me any problems yet. Super 4 is really a damn reliable bike!

 

To me, that was the most cost-effective way, though your experience may be different. Good thing about older bikes also is the cheaper upfront cost, which means you might not need to take out a loan if you don't have the capital.

 

Note that 10+ year old bikes have more expensive road tax.

 

Do your own calculations on the annual cost of ownership (bike cost + one-time maintenance + taxes + yearly maintenance + inspections divided by years left) to figure out what's more suitable for you!

 

Ride safe!

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go for spec 3 if you wanna ride it for longer. frankly speaking super4 is a super reliable and efficent bike for singapore road.

i wouldn't take the risk of spec1/2 due to the uprising unforesee problems (cdi / engine etc) as they are about 15yrs old or more.

 

its true you will save on the upfront, but who knows if the maintenance will kill you.

 

in the end luck also plays a part. i personally prefer bikes that has less transfer count, and lower mileage, go down for viewing and see how sincere are the seller!

 

but if like what dwh12 said, work on the capital you have.

 

good luck!

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Congrats on getting 2A license! Personally I am riding spec 1. Changed some minor parts of the wear and tear (is normal). I intend to upgrade after get my class 2. That's y I get spec 1 due as the price quite a big different from spec 3 or revo.

 

Imo. Since you said u will be riding about 3 years preferably get a spec 3 or revo that suit ur budget will be better. Probably lesser problem but newer spec doesn't mean no problem. Depend on the previous owner riding style and maintenance of the bike. If the person know how to take care of bike, even older spec condition better than newer spec. Take your time to view the bike you like and check the condition. Regardless of any s4 Vtec is worth to get. Especially when the Vtec open..

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Hi All,

 

Can someone guide me on how to change the time on a Spec1? :? Mine is running late.

http://img23.exs.cx/img23/8058/1794.gif

 

In My World of Cruising, Racing, Living Fast Dying Young,

Here is A Story of True Romance. AWW...How F.U.Kin Sweet http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs258.snc1/10534_1140208501731_1122979945_30367651_5951968_n.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Hey all. New to here. I’m from Ireland. Recently picked up a 2004 spec 3. But the vtec is not kicking in. Iv givin the bike a full service. Oil ,filter, plugs,leads. Air filter. Still feels the same. Drives fine until u hit around 6k rpm. Also the speedo or odometer isn’t working. Iv seen on someone’s post this might b the cause of the vtec failure. Just wondering if anyone had any more info about it. Cheers in advance. Doc

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