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Subaru Impreza 5D 1.5R


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Before you decide where to fix the gauges, I suggest you walk around the shop and check their quality of work.

 

Few years back, I was at this very reputable garage. There was a WRX having some gauges installed, the technician opened up the ECU, located at the floorboard on the front passenger side, and he was happily cutting off the wires by trial and error to tap the signal to the gauges. Those wrong ones will twisted back together and taped over with electrical insulation.

 

That type of workmanship is definitely not acceptable to me. Maybe it's just me :p

 

:)

such trial n error one word F**K UP i will nv accept tht kind of standard.. Well i hav onli patronise them once, bought a Pivot Volt Stab fr them n got it install in my dad's van thts few yrs back.

 

I dun think its the road condition. I tried it on a straight, flat road and the problem still persist. While driving, I did not hands off the steering wheel. The thing is that I need to turn the steering wheel slightly to the left to keep the vehicle going straight. If I turn it to the straight position, the car will slowly go towards the right. That's an alignment problem?

Well its either u return to Harrey Potter or u go to tire shop to hav them check on ur alignment.

Wah, this is not acceptable to me too. I don't need any mech to trial and error on my car. :sian:

 

Hmm think u better get some reputable workshop wif gd mechanic to hand on ur ride..

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The Light Began to dim.. Music Fading out.. I Begin to Miss You

......................The Visual Cycle..........................

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:lol: :lol: btw y ur car suddenly so quiet.. :cheeky:

 

Noisy not gd.. quiet is still a wiser choice.. haha.. i'm on stock extractor mah..

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The Light Began to dim.. Music Fading out.. I Begin to Miss You

......................The Visual Cycle..........................

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:lol: :lol: btw y ur car suddenly so quiet.. :cheeky:

 

He on secretive mode mah.. but den still kanna spot by u.. Chey~~!:dot:

:cheeky:

We the safe riders, pledge to be alert at all times,considerate to other road users and follow all traffic rules so as to make riding a safer and more enjoyable experience.

We pledge to ride safely and stay alive.

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wah the 1.5R is really very laggy... moving off from standstill is a headache... throttle response also very terok... anyways to improve it? like make the throttle more responsive? For bike, I would have changed the air filter and change the exhaust and the throttle response and acceleration will be greatly improved. Does it work the same for car?

 

Something you could consider installing, Pivot 3 drive or Blitz throttle controller..it doesn`t increase up HP,but tricks ur ecu into opening the valve bigger even if you r not stepping too hard on ur accelerator thus giving better acceleration..Read up more info in the link..hope this helps..

 

http://www.sg3gwrx.com/index.php?topic=4209.15

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Something you could consider installing, Pivot 3 drive or Blitz throttle controller..it doesn`t increase up HP,but tricks ur ecu into opening the valve bigger even if you r not stepping too hard on ur accelerator thus giving better acceleration..Read up more info in the link..hope this helps..

 

http://www.sg3gwrx.com/index.php?topic=4209.15

 

Yeah I am considering that now... but its kinda costly... :dozed:

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imho if i have a budget of $400-$600, pivot, blitz, tuning... i will still take tuning package first then maybe in future i will get the controller toy to fulfil my urge. Save up more and hold ur horse first, by the times come u will realise u will be saving $.. dun be penny foolish :lol:

:cool:
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imho if i have a budget of $400-$600, pivot, blitz, tuning... i will still take tuning package first then maybe in future i will get the controller toy to fulfil my urge. Save up more and hold ur horse first, by the times come u will realise u will be saving $.. dun be penny foolish :lol:

 

I'm sure friedfishz is expecting a very healthy bonus, and what's more his new car, so it's normal behavior wanting to splurge.

 

Do take note that the Pivot 3 drive or Blitz throttle controller is not a performance mod. I have tested an E-throttle system, it felt good initially but after a while your foot get use to it, it's back to square one.

 

On a bike, that's equivalent to changing the throttle tube that has a better mechanical advantage than the stock tube but a throttle tube cost less than $35

 

:)

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I'm sure friedfishz is expecting a very healthy bonus, and what's more his new car, so it's normal behavior wanting to splurge.

 

Do take note that the Pivot 3 drive or Blitz throttle controller is not a performance mod. I have tested an E-throttle system, it felt good initially but after a while your foot get use to it, it's back to square one.

 

On a bike, that's equivalent to changing the throttle tube that has a better mechanical advantage than the stock tube but a throttle tube cost less than $35

 

:)

 

No lah... bonus not healthy at all... haiz.. think about it also sad. Agree that I feel like splurging but the pocket not deep enough. Anyway, I think its also good to spread out the modifications so that the car can last me longer... haha.. do it one at a time, once a month... hehe... I think I'll skip Pivot 3 Drive for now cuz its too expensive and I agree with you that very soon, I will get used to it and it will be back to square one... :thumb:

 

imho if i have a budget of $400-$600, pivot, blitz, tuning... i will still take tuning package first then maybe in future i will get the controller toy to fulfil my urge. Save up more and hold ur horse first, by the times come u will realise u will be saving $.. dun be penny foolish :lol:

 

Tuning package? Wouldn't it be useful only after I fix the exhaust and unichip?

 

Anyway I just threw in the drop-in K&N Air Filter... car feels slightly better. Not too sure if CAI would have any big improvement?

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like i said unichip is not really a must nowadays, unichip + tune is ard $900.

 

afterall unichip is not standalone and reflash programs has been getting better and better nowadays.

 

Why ppl use unichip in the past: turbo module for tc cars, speed cut removal 180km, if board get short circuited it will burn unichip first, reflash programs not that stable lesser functions etc.

 

After years of reflash programs improvement, reflashing and standalone will be the ones continue to move forward, piggyback already stagnant. and nowadays u can fetch a 2nd hand stock ecu at dirt cheap price, there's practically nothing to worry.

:cool:
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like i said unichip is not really a must nowadays, unichip + tune is ard $900.

 

afterall unichip is not standalone and reflash programs has been getting better and better nowadays.

 

Why ppl use unichip in the past: turbo module for tc cars, speed cut removal 180km, if board get short circuited it will burn unichip first, reflash programs not that stable lesser functions etc.

 

After years of reflash programs improvement, reflashing and standalone will be the ones continue to move forward, piggyback already stagnant. and nowadays u can fetch a 2nd hand stock ecu at dirt cheap price, there's practically nothing to worry.

 

 

what do you mean by reflash and how do we do it? is it a programme for our stock ecu or is it something like a unichip?

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hmm i put it in a easy way,

 

A car with unichip is like having 2 motherboard in a cpu, unichip will act as a frontline storing all the info and passing it downwards, while ur stock ecu remains as a support. Unichip also requires tuning either by loading pre-maps in or custom maps, so these info will be kept in unichip.

 

Reflash aka open source tuning, data and tuning perimeters will be kept inside ur stock ecu. 1 cpu 1 motherboard logic.

 

Standalone means a whole aftermarket ecu replacing ur stock ecu, more perimeters, more function, more support.

 

In this case, hardwares are stuff like ur ecu, unichip or standalone.

 

Software is tuning programs, machiam ms office vs openoffice

 

Impt factors is ur tuner.

 

There're online guide to reflash ur vehicle if u wan to but u need to buy the cable to connect to ur ecu first from US. And fyi is like programming, so better leave it to the experts.

 

Use a stock car for example, no mods.

Tuning can go:

According to driver its requirement, means car will behaves according to wat the driver expects and not after tuning must go get used to the power and new setting.

 

Tuning also can go:

According to make/model max capabilities, max out ur parts duty cycle, making it leaner and squeeze every single bit of juice out from the metal body, then u will accomodate according to the car.

:cool:
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what do you mean by reflash and how do we do it? is it a programme for our stock ecu or is it something like a unichip?

 

You have to consider really carefully when you want to mettle with the ECU.

 

The factory ECU mapping is usually the balance of emission constraints, fuel consumption, performance, reliability...etc. If you change any parameter, you will upset the balance, you may gain something but at the expense of others.

 

If you want to real noticeable difference, then you must prepare to deviate drastically from the factory setting, and the consequences will be reliability, and warranty, since your car is still so new

 

:)

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hmm i put it in a easy way,

 

A car with unichip is like having 2 motherboard in a cpu, unichip will act as a frontline storing all the info and passing it downwards, while ur stock ecu remains as a support. Unichip also requires tuning either by loading pre-maps in or custom maps, so these info will be kept in unichip.

 

Reflash aka open source tuning, data and tuning perimeters will be kept inside ur stock ecu. 1 cpu 1 motherboard logic.

 

Standalone means a whole aftermarket ecu replacing ur stock ecu, more perimeters, more function, more support.

 

In this case, hardwares are stuff like ur ecu, unichip or standalone.

 

Software is tuning programs, machiam ms office vs openoffice

 

Impt factors is ur tuner.

 

There're online guide to reflash ur vehicle if u wan to but u need to buy the cable to connect to ur ecu first from US. And fyi is like programming, so better leave it to the experts.

 

Use a stock car for example, no mods.

Tuning can go:

According to driver its requirement, means car will behaves according to wat the driver expects and not after tuning must go get used to the power and new setting.

 

Tuning also can go:

According to make/model max capabilities, max out ur parts duty cycle, making it leaner and squeeze every single bit of juice out from the metal body, then u will accomodate according to the car.

 

You have to consider really carefully when you want to mettle with the ECU.

 

The factory ECU mapping is usually the balance of emission constraints, fuel consumption, performance, reliability...etc. If you change any parameter, you will upset the balance, you may gain something but at the expense of others.

 

If you want to real noticeable difference, then you must prepare to deviate drastically from the factory setting, and the consequences will be reliability, and warranty, since your car is still so new

 

:)

 

Thanx for the explanation! Sounds too risky to me... I'll leave the ecu stock for now... :angel:

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  • 3 years later...
Hi can anyone advised how to improve Subaru Impreza 5d 1.5r fuel consumption??

 

Eg Change lighter rims , crank pulley, ATF cooler

 

Be gentle to the gas pedal.

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Hi can anyone advised how to improve Subaru Impreza 5d 1.5r fuel consumption??

 

Eg Change lighter rims , crank pulley, ATF cooler

 

If fuel consumption matters to you, you shouldnt have bought subaru impreza. Motorbike and Car FC cant be changed much. The engine is designed as it is for.

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Hi can anyone advised how to improve Subaru Impreza 5d 1.5r fuel consumption??

 

Eg Change lighter rims , crank pulley, ATF cooler

 

send it for a tune & then train ur right foot :thumb:

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