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Posted
Originally posted by Akrapovic55@Apr 6 2005, 09:46 PM

CB

Chicken Backside? :confused:

http://picturesky.com/albums/userpics/11161/yamaha.jpg<span style=\'font-family:impact\'>I go 60 nia

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forum/uploads/photo-1478.jpg

 

For Sale: Arai Gunmetal gray side cover for RR4, right side (Still in packaging)

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Posted
Originally posted by Akrapovic55@Apr 6 2005, 10:10 PM

HE SUPER CCB. :mad:

Super curry chicken backside?

__________________

Good friend is like underwear ,always cover u . Better friend is like a condom, always save u. Your best friend is like VIAGRA: when u r down, he keeps u UP!!

 

BeST DEAL

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Posted
Originally posted by kimderson@Apr 6 2005, 09:03 AM

so bro how the outcome for ur tri-oval & the bagster?

still waiting... :weep: i will be free when i cum back from oversea then can do my own things liao........

Posted

brothers, have a question..

 

my friend is running in his k5 using the method prescribed in the manual..

It says must replace 4t after 1000km.

 

The main question: This replacement is with synthetic, semi, or minerals?

And how much must be replaced, ie, what capacity? 3L? 2.8L? or 3.5?

 

Thanks for the answers.

Posted
Originally posted by mojoz F3@Apr 7 2005, 12:18 AM

brothers, have a question..

 

my friend is running in his k5 using the method prescribed in the manual..

It says must replace 4t after 1000km.

 

The main question: This replacement is with synthetic, semi, or minerals?

And how much must be replaced, ie, what capacity? 3L? 2.8L? or 3.5?

 

Thanks for the answers.

It will be better if u use mineral oil for running-in period.

Posted

You can choose to use either one. But normally ppl use mineral oil during runing in due to it is more economical, and it tend to breakdown faster thus more rough, more suitable for running in. But it is ok for you to use semi or full. For my case, I use full syth after the 1000km mark, but the brand is Total from carefour cause it is cheap. Total = total lost!! (Joking)

 

Next the top up of engine oil. For my bike, with oil filter change, the oil top up is around 2.8l. Not sure about your friend bike. Theorically is is the same, but then you can always find the correct amount for your bike by the following method. Top up engine oil to around 2.5l first then start engine (remember to close the engine oil cap). let it idle for a while.. then switch off the engine. Wait a while for the engine oil to settle down. and then slowly top up the engine oil till it is around 1/3 mark of the high/low indicator. Always remember to straighten the bike before checking the oil level. Having a friend to assit you helps. By next day morning, it will normally rise to half wy point due to all the engine oil drip back to the oil sump.

:cheeky:

Posted
Originally posted by kinwei@Apr 6 2005, 09:46 PM

Hey, anyone wants Maxima chain wax?? I can get $11 per small bottle. But need at least 10 orders. Beside the normal chain wax which we are used to, there is also a new product called chain guard. detail spec of the product can be view at this link, http://www.maximausa.com/products/chainlubes/chainguard.asp

 

For those interested party, just PM me with your qty, product.

Quick quick PM me for order!! So that we can get it fast fast!! need 10 bottles! Dun worry, chain lube is best in the market!! No horse run! Can also ask any of your biker friend to order also.

Posted
Originally posted by mojoz F3@Apr 7 2005, 12:18 AM

brothers, have a question..

 

my friend is running in his k5 using the method prescribed in the manual..

It says must replace 4t after 1000km.

 

The main question: This replacement is with synthetic, semi, or minerals?

And how much must be replaced, ie, what capacity? 3L? 2.8L? or 3.5?

 

Thanks for the answers.

Running in

FORGET ALL THAT nonsense about sticking to rev limits for a certain number of miles, just ride normally, allowing the engine to rev freely (but not redlining) and never let it labour. Go up and down the gearbox and up and down the revs. Dont't sit on a motorway for hours hoping to speed up the process - it doesn't work.

Engine tuner Dave Setphenson, who's run in hundreds of bikes, has two tips:

 

"Find a long downhill stretch, get in top at about 50mph (80kph) and wait till the bike's pulling ahead of the engine, then whack the throttle open. When it starts to pull, shut it again. That causes a vacuum in the crankcase, pushes the piston rings against the cylinder walls and helps them bed in."

 

The second tip is not to use synthetic oil for running in. "It won't just slow the running in process, it ruins it - do 20 miles (32km) for new on synthetic and the engine'll need stripping." the bores and bearing surfaces end up polished and unable to hold a film of oil. the same thing happens when you run engines in too carefully

 

 

cheers...

Posted
Originally posted by islander@Apr 7 2005, 01:19 AM

Running in

FORGET ALL THAT nonsense about sticking to rev limits for a certain number of miles, just ride normally, allowing the engine to rev freely (but not redlining) and never let it labour. Go up and down the gearbox and up and down the revs. Dont't sit on a motorway for hours hoping to speed up the process - it doesn't work.

Engine tuner Dave Setphenson, who's run in hundreds of bikes, has two tips:

 

"Find a long downhill stretch, get in top at about 50mph (80kph) and wait till the bike's pulling ahead of the engine, then whack the throttle open. When it starts to pull, shut it again. That causes a vacuum in the crankcase, pushes the piston rings against the cylinder walls and helps them bed in."

 

The second tip is not to use synthetic oil for running in. "It won't just slow the running in process, it ruins it - do 20 miles (32km) for new on synthetic and the engine'll need stripping." the bores and bearing surfaces end up polished and unable to hold a film of oil. the same thing happens when you run engines in too carefully

 

 

cheers...

Thats "breaking in" for you. Another version of "running in". Actually this 2 method doesn't makes a big difference if you intend to keep the bike like for 2??3 yrs. The big difference might happen after 5 yrs?? or more. It just that some ppl have this feeling of running in properly is the correct method cause that is what last time ppl did all the times. Anyway anyone know hows a bike's engine condition after more than 5 yrs with breaking in method? So far I only know those using run in method is ok.

Guest kimderson
Posted
Originally posted by chottoh_89@Apr 7 2005, 12:08 AM

still waiting... :weep: i will be free when i cum back from oversea then can do my own things liao........

thanks .let me know cos i'm kind of piss off with bagster later. mail to them so more time no respond.

Posted

maybe can get akra legal tit endcan for 1k(excluding inspection fees)..waiting for another shop to confirm..

 

Get the Maxima Chain Wax bros..u will not look back and regret.. :thumb:

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i42/akrapovick4/thedoctor.jpg
Posted
Originally posted by kinwei@Apr 7 2005, 05:31 PM

Eh, heard your G1 under the sea arr??

You this Super CCB guy.Buy that akra,or i go steal your yoshi.

Posted
Originally posted by Akrapovic55@Apr 8 2005, 08:08 AM

You this Super CCB guy.Buy that akra,or i go steal your yoshi.

Haha, steady.. I buy, you pay!! Onz?? :cheer:

Posted
Originally posted by mojoz F3@Apr 8 2005, 08:23 PM

brothers, full tank what is your mileage?

fully stock... Never play throttle so much...

 

thanks for any feedback...

200km reserve light on, 60km left after reserve.

One In The Chamber!!

Posted
Originally posted by mojoz F3@Apr 8 2005, 08:23 PM

brothers, full tank what is your mileage?

fully stock... Never play throttle so much...

 

thanks for any feedback...

For a stock bike, the mileage for main tank is ard 210km~230km. The furthest I hit for reserve is 70km @ 130km/hr constant. But left around 1L more.. so reserve roughly ard 80km~90km. For singapore riding, no whacking of bike is roughly ard 17~18km/L. Some guy bring their G6 for Teka mapping and manage to get 290km before hit reserve. Hope this helps. Meanwhile Happy Riding!:cheer:

Posted

anyone got the problem with idleling?clutch in too fast,the bike dies straight away.

i juz got my throttle body wash and tuning set.its help but not totally.sometimes

comes back again.set idleling to more higher but drops a bit later by itself.and

bike is very hard to start after using,means it is still warm.

any solutions to help?:thumb:

You may be faster than wind,but never time! It's alright for not having any fond memories at the older age... But it'll be awful for having only regrets. There are things in life which you'll never be able to recover once they've passed away,even when you use the fastest machine in the world.Treasure your life and the others too! Play hard, Ride safe...

Posted
Originally posted by SUZUk4@Apr 9 2005, 01:22 AM

anyone got the problem with idleling?clutch in too fast,the bike dies straight away.

i juz got my throttle body wash and tuning set.its help but not totally.sometimes

comes back again.set idleling to more higher but drops a bit later by itself.and

bike is very hard to start after using,means it is still warm.

any solutions to help?:thumb:

time to clear carbon perhaps...after u clear,ur idling will raise up..

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i42/akrapovick4/thedoctor.jpg

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