WhySquare

Is this in reference to any of the specific junctions in the test route? If it's the one at the coffeeshop, you should inch forward, rear wheel clears the furthest line but bike points straight ahead since gliding right will force you over the divider and into the opposite lane. If you are asking in general and there is a yellow box, you can wait in the box, near the X. Just imagine a pocket there and position accordingly. If there are 2 right-turn lanes (in major roads after you obtain your license), there will usually be pockets. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Barely. You're better off joining the Whatsapp chat group. See the 4th message before this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If it's jerky with stuttering, that means insufficient acceleration. So the remedy is to open the throttle more when moving off initially. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You're right! I misunderstood. Haha. What you're doing should be acceptable, as long as the fingers don't dwell on the clutch lever for too long. This is true. It depends on the bike sometimes. When they were still the old bikes, some would require a hard rev while others can get to gear 2 speed with a gentle coax. It will depend on your feel with the bike. Not sure about the new ones. In short, just get to gear 2 as soon as possible from the start line, so you can concentrate on regulating your entry speed. One good tip I got from the instructors: for the first cone, aim to slot your bike in before the midpoint of the cones. Then you will find it easier to go round the following cones. For example, in the diagram below, pass the bike to the right of the X, which is supposed to be the midpoint between cones 1 and 2. o.........X.........o Cone 2 Cone 1 If need be, jam the foot brakes to get it, then add throttle when coming out from there to maintain balance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dude... Don't make that a habit. You need to release the throttle fully unless you are in gear 1. If not, that is going to be considered "wrong posture". Forgot if it's 2 or 4 points. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea. The good habits carry over. Must practice until they become natural. Lots of maniacs driving on the road these days. For those who have already cleared 3(2) and above, if at any time your next lesson is more than a week later, you can consider taking an RC lesson while waiting. That way, you won't lose touch of the feel of riding and you can squeeze in extra practice. Practicing u-turn in the circuit (go plank, pylon, u-turn down the road and u-turn to plank again...) is much cheaper and more efficient too (edit: not a total substitute if you are not used to road conditions; if unfamiliar with lane changing or riding alongside real traffic, still better to have some RRs). And the best is - it's sheltered - no problem, whether rain or shine. RRs only give you a maximum of 4 u-turn tries on the road, then another 30 minutes or so in circuit. And it's more expensive. Also, it's very possible to pass the first time. And, mister.skudder: The instructors do watch for circuit techniques as well. In fact, one of the instructors is very strict on the courses during lesson 4. He is usually stationed at the plank. Not sure if anything's changed. Lesson 7 is more relaxing because it's only 1 instructor for the whole circuit portion, then 1-to-1 for road evaluation. The circuit instructors usually station at the course until all lesson 7 students clear it so they can't see what you do (or did not do) if you're too far away from them. Haha... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The only 3 spots I can think of when you need to make a turn right after you move off are: circuit flag off point, stop line before traffic light junction (after you clear crank course and on your way to e-brake) and if you stop while exiting figure 8 course. These are the more challenging ones to check blind spot due to the balance. For the rest of the circuit, you should have more time to react as you have at least the width of a lane to check the blind spot. In fact, for most blind spot checking, they should be done about 1 to 1.5 car lengths *before* you enter the bend. For example, when approaching the crank course, you should check blind spot once you clear the T-junction and before you have passed the "parking bay". That's according to TP tester standard. With this advanced length, you should have sufficient reaction time and also, your bike should still be straight and hence have lesser difficulty doing so. As for the 3 spots I mentioned, what you can do is to maintain the throttle at gear 1, and apply the foot brakes. This will ensure there is sufficient centripetal force within the tyres (and engine, to some extent) and help maintain balance. When checking, just turn in an exaggerated manner then keep your eye point focused on where you want to go. No need to turn back fully after checking. For your subsequent riding practices, practice using the foot brake almost exclusively. It will help you stabilize better and prevent wobble especially on the road, when you have to stop or slow down for u-turn from a high speed. Learning this habit helps you to avoid touching the front brake when turning, which is again bad riding posture. Anticipation is key, and apply front brake only to complement the stopping force when necessary. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok. Never mind. Roy from Ubi branch diagnosed it as a faulty charging coil. Will seek further help if things don't work out after I have changed it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Look far, grab the tank with your thighs and control the throttle and rear brake. Just keep the clutch constantly at biting point and use only the rear brake to slow down. Important thing to remember is: when the bike is free-wheeling, it loses balance easier. Also, "practice the plank" wherever you are. By that, I mean just choosing a straight line and "balancing" along that line whenever you come to a low speed section in the circuit like traffic light or at stop line, especially after crank course toward the e-brake if you have already done lesson 3(2). That way, you get used to the balance point and center of the bike at every opportunity, not just when on the plank. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi RWR-ers. I just got a 2nd hand, 8-year old RWR125 and have been experiencing some issues with it. I am hoping to get some feedback or advice as I am unsure where else to look since this is the first bike I have ever owned. Google did not help this time round. 1. Every morning, and sometimes in the evening after I knock off from work, I have difficulty performing a cold start on the bike. The engine would crank a few times and then sputter pitifully before dying off. When I first went to view the bike before purchasing, the same thing happened when I asked for the bike to be started. I was told that this was normal for an FI engine since the bike has been there for a couple of days at least. Now, it doesn't seem normal to me anymore, but have any of you experienced similar issues? 2. My battery does not seem to be able to charge up properly when riding. A brand new stock battery died within a month (it was replaced when I got it from CKA, but I just replaced it yesterday since it totally died and I had to push start to ride the bike to a workshop). Has anyone else faced this before? What parts had to be replaced, and how much did it cost? Would it be the alternator or rectifier that is causing an issue? Anyone? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tofuuuuuu's original question about opening throttle when lowering gear is something called "rev matching" to ensure smoother transition to a lower gear. You basically close throttle, then *clutch in, accelerate, step gear down, close throttle again* before releasing the clutch. Everything between the ** are done nearly simultaneously. You can do that in daily riding but because it is not a technique taught in the school, it's best not to use it. Also, you may want to avoid it during the TP test in case you over-rev. That costs some points. What the others have advised is correct. When lowering gear, you should first close the throttle, then apply the brakes until it's slow enough before pulling the clutch lever in, stepping down ONE GEAR, and then releasing the clutch lever slowly (you can accelerate a little at this point of the engine braking effect is too strong). Pull clutch lever in and step down again as needed if gear is still too high. Don't "throw" the clutch out because it will cause you to be jerky due to high wheel revolution not matching engine rpm. Again, costs points for being either wobbly or having bad posture if not done properly. Worse, if your leg comes down due to the sudden jerk... And for holding on to clutch lever while not changing gear, it is again considered "wrong posture" so don't hold on for too long. Just lift your fingers off if you're not using the clutch lever. And don't wait for the speed to get too low via engine brake, in case the engine stalls. Go for more rounds to gauge the speed you can make the turn so you know how slow you need to be before you enter the bend. After all the ways on how easy to obtain points, some good news about taking the test in SSDC is that: the notoriously strict TP tester has been rotated to Ubi. It's easier to pass this year on until the next rotation of testers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk