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ConceptFuel
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Everything posted by ConceptFuel
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What model are you riding?
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Great, something to be done there. Are you going to get a newer 200NS or a classic 200dts-i?
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Good morning, if I still remember you have to retake the Singapore highway code for this conversion or just go to the traffic police office for license renewal. Many of the Bajaj Pulsar bike are of new Generation 200NS on the road, and only a handful of Bajaj Pulsar 180 and 200dts-i left on the road.
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As tried riding it for three weeks, the pilot fuel screw have to be reduce to 2 turns open from 2.5 despite using a pilot jet normally use on a 150c.c engine. Idling RPM starts to go up by 150rpm to 1400, which normally I maintain the idling RPM at 1250rpm. Given the adjusted carb situation, the engine is very quiet at idling the to smooth combustion going on in the engine. And also on cruising speed of 15% throttle at 65-70kph. Most probably even the current stock main jet of 110 have to be reduce by one step of just have to lower the carb needle position by a rising the clip by one to avoid vary rich mixture. But there is still alot of unused heat that is wasted from the engine production during higher speed and the engine is starting to bog, with the carb sweating excessively. Due to the constraint of heat transfer from the hot engine oil to the carb on higher speed, the HERS have to be upgraded. With aluminum foil strips removed, and sourcing some industrial grade hoses, material not specify for certain reasons, carefully I layout the best route for the liquid base cooling to utilize the heat (recovery) from the hot oil to the carrier liquid inside the hose and transport it to the carb with three places of heating, and not just any how wrap around the carb. While waiting for the low wattage and low flow with proper calculation in place. I just have to settle with natural convention of the heat carrier liquid flowing in the hose, until the mini pump arrived. A DISCLAIMER: Please take note that what I am doing is not just plug and play like a computer, it take some basic calculation, material selection, energy conversion and usage consideration in place. Following just blindly will end up with major engine damage, or even higher fuel consumption in return. Do refer to certain topics related like physics, mechanical, chemistry and basic thermodynamics and lastly metallurgy. Most importantly understand the law of nature and dont go against it, you never win. Ride safely everyone :).
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Continuation of fuel intake system by implementing HERS and recalibration of fuel dosage to the combustion chamber. After months of break, so as continue on the I.C.E enhancement upgrades on the bike. As for a benchmark, a simple solid state heat transfer strip is being added to some part of the carb body preheating the fuel especially the pilot circuit. Simple with don't need to be thinking too much, aluminum foil as a start. Pulling some heat off from the hot oil line to the camshafts. And attach it to the pilot area of the carb body for the fuel preheater. While on the right side of the carb the foil strip also take the heat from the same source hot oil line supplying engine oil to the camshaft. Not much strip is being use as temperature must not be too high for the petrol (gasoline) to be preheat. The foil is wrapped on the right side of the carb to improve on the atomization pf the fuel into the air mixture before going into the engine at 20% throttling onwards opening.
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Makan + Slow Cruising around SG
ConceptFuel replied to pinksheep's topic in Local SG Events & Gatherings
As long local rides I am ok with it, just name the place and time -
At your service, just glad to help if possible. Just leave a reply here when there is any doubts. Or meet ups or kopi to talk about any mech issue if I can resolved it. Some things can be fix in a simple ways
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Are you referring to engine rubber mounting or the rear wheel rubber hub, for the bearings, is it wheel bearings on the front? It might just be a chain that is slacking too much that just require tightening. Try take a picture of the drive chain if possible, might be just that as a issue
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There is actually a shop in Johor Baru where a former mechanic use to work at Bajaj shop at Bukit Merah, you can bring ride up there for a check up. One main reason a gear shift is hard is not usually the clutch. But as a fact that it is actually easier to shift with a worn out clutch. Try these two things on check first. Since yours, mine and common bike out there use mechanical cable operated clutch, the cable position have to be adjusted as the clutch plate worn out with use. Secondly check the bike chain slack, too much slack movement due to stretching as you ride with distance, also can hinder your gear shift, when you tighten your chain back you will notice the gear change is easier. Do these two things first alright Also, since I usually work on the road at night, I can even drop by your area to visually see if there is anything wrong, so do just msg me if you need some visual check if there is any doubt
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Hi Rajak, Basically wet plate multiple clutch can last from as short as 2 years for harsh users and up to 12-15 years from rider who can really control and operate their clutch lever, throttle and engine rpm conservatively and also last longer than a dry single or multiple plate type. Do take note that a worm out wet clutch plate can show a very obvious sign when you ride the bike. One way you will notice that the engine rpm can just rise up fast even when you accelerate gradually, lost of certain speed despite the usual engine rpm and especially when you go up hill, you will hear the engine rpm just go up high due to clutch slipping effect. Those are signs you need to change the clutch plates and pressure plates. Worst still if it is totally worn out, your bike won't even move when you pull the throttle at first gear and even can change to other gear without operating the clutch lever to any gear and still not stalling the bike engine. If your bike dont feel any of any condition above, I suggest just keep using the clutch currently in your bike till you can start to feel a bit of slipping on the clutch disengaged operation, but to play safe change it every 5-8 years or 80,000km-100,000k as a preventive maintenance, remember wet clutches are design for long life and daily use unlike dry clutches on bikes, not to compare to cars alright for certain reasons , hope that helps.
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Makan + Slow Cruising around SG
ConceptFuel replied to pinksheep's topic in Local SG Events & Gatherings
When do you plan to go? -
Just glad to help to my best knowledge, at your service, enjoy your trip
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Actually you can park inside the area as guest. As I use to regularly stay there during my visit to KL last time. There should be no problem parking inside the vicinity. I don't know how accurate the review is, but I can rest assured as actual former hotel guest, you can park in the vicinity as long as you are the hotel guest users
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Makan + Slow Cruising around SG
ConceptFuel replied to pinksheep's topic in Local SG Events & Gatherings
I like the Grand Finale, the breakfast part , the best moment -
I would suggest Lodge Paradize Hotel located beside Hotel Istana, is located just beside Raja Chulan Monorail station is a great location near city centre with a great price for staying a while. Also it is a walking distance to some place in KL while your bike can rest too while exploring KL. I hope that helps to my best knowledge. Also they held Salsa dance every Thursday or Friday. Is been awhile I never travel but don't know if the event still held it or not. Simple place to stay good price and also with security parking.
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Makan + Slow Cruising around SG
ConceptFuel replied to pinksheep's topic in Local SG Events & Gatherings
Sorry I just read your msg, kopi session again yeah :D -
Solid Lah!!!! Good information to share around on history of Pulsar. Favourite
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Is great to see 2000's era bike still around despite is left a few on the roads , great meetup Urabummer
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Like wise I can suggest, I rarely advice. Usually I hang out at Yung Sheng 101 at Yung Sheng Road, where Boon Lay Power Basi Lemak Taman Jurong branch is located or at time I just go to one kopi shop where it is in quiet area in between woodlands and Jurong somewhere in industrial area where MRT line cross. Surely we can meet up and talk over. Just PM me when you are free
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This was my very first Pulsar 200dtsi Version 2 one month before it had to send for scrap when COE ended codename NCC-1578A. Hate to scrap it when it still looks new and run like new after taking care of it very well.
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Good Morning Urabummer. This is actually my 4th Pulsar in my lifetime. The first was actually a Pulsar 180 UG3(the only first hand I have brought). Then came in my most beloved 2009 Pulsar 200dtsi Version 2 red colour which was already scrapped due to COE expired, I name it NCC-1578A base on the number plate FBE1578. I failed to save it despite its mint condition due to extreme COE price and I was injured also during that period. After riding few other bikes, I still came back to buy a blue pulsar 200dtsi version 2 code name NCC-1578B and eventually the current black one just two years later NCC-1578C. One reason is, its reliability of the engine, but sadly not maintain well by alot of riders here who brought it, another, the running cost of maintaining the bike is very low provided you tuned it well Second thing is the spare parts are cheap almost uncomparable to other brands provided you know where to buy it but not in Singapore. Adding that the engine is actually very tunable and upgradable to a spec that can still surpass current generation motorcycle in 2B segment in terms of efficiency. The odometer can be actually be reseted but need a chip to replace it in the meter. The bike is infamous due to the country of manufacture, looks, marketing mainly. Parts wise many will mainly look for aftermarket parts in brands and website while I usually head to the factories to fabricate, or even DIY it myself to fit into the bike. Is a long story if I were to type it here, but I stay somewhere in the west. You also notice my bike is always name after a initial bike plate number and I just ignore the plate number fitted on what ever pulsar I currently own. There is a reason for that.
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For which bike model you are referring to. If Bajaj Pulsar 200dts-i itself is usually at the mirror. Just like my own bike, or the centre mount handlebar which you have to attach a bar at the centre of the handlebar. Or inside the front fairing which I plan to do it in the future to make it discreet. For now I try to upload the picture but error keep popping up in the website.
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Simple things can cause the range of the bike to drop, this is what I can suggest - 1) Check tire pressure (cold), ensure it is at operating range. Lower tyre pressure will cause lower range but at expense of higher road grip. 2) Tyre surface worn, if you usually ride on straights like expressways mostly, the centre side of the tyre might be flatten a bit on the surface due to wear and tear creating more tyre contact patch for grip at a expense of shorter fuel range. 3) Air filter, it might be dirty causing less air going into the engine causing power loss making rider have to throttle harder just for same speed. This cause higher fuel consumption. 4) Transmission Chain condition, if it is badly worn, power loss from the engine to the rear wheel can be as much to 10-15% from just 3-5% when it is new. 5) Engine oil condition and type of engine oil use. Assuming you are using the right type of engine oil, the life of the engine oil might be towards it's end of life and due for oil change, or there might be low engine oil level in your engine. 6) Spark plugs, as you have use your bike for quite awhile now, spark plug might need to be inspected or even change after the running cycle of the engine due to wear and tear of electrodes of the plugs. 7) Engine intake and exhaust valve clearance, might be a bit off, which usually you can hear a "tik tik tik" sound located at the engine block head even when it is already on operating temperature. Valve clearance adjustment might need to be adjust by the mech. Last thing I can say and hopefully not, the worst case scenario, your engine oil level keep dropping slowly but with no visible oil leak on the engine surface. Might be a indication that your engine piston rings might have worn out cause engine to run at poor compression, thus making rider have to throttle more for same speed. I put this as last one and hopefully not the issue your bike is going thru. Engine oil level can also drop due to other things when the engine is running but I shall not further explained for the time being. This are the things you can check or ask your shop mech to check for you on your bike from number 1 to 6. Finally, if the machine is working fine, most probably is the human side, the rider itself, factors like have you gain weight, have you start to ride the bike more aggressively, I hope what I mention helps somehow
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- How old is your bike? - How much mileage have you done with your bike on the odometer? - Did you buy brand new or second hand? - You last bike recent maintenance?
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You saw my nick before? Maybe a look alike or just coincidence somewhere the name is same. Last time KR150 I rode was just a slight tune on the carburetor also on the air settings, making the mixture just about right to lubricate the engine internal while still burn off the 2T off in the combustion chamber to maintain the exhaust dry, once awhile since the engine is equip with power valve, have to rev it high three to four times a week just to ensure the valve is not sticking when you need it.
