Poured 2T oil in 4 Stroker -Resolved on Yahoo Answers!

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Found this post on Yahoo Answers, tot i'd share this with the folks here..

http://sg.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080218110655AAkhjUG

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I put 2 stroke oil in my Honda CBR 125, Now its not working, What do I do?

I now know i should have put 4 stroke oil in my motorbike, the engine now makes a noise and it moves at around 10mph.

 

Its a Honda CBR 125cc 2006 model, I used Castrol Actevo oil in my bike (the oil is red)

 

What do I do? Do i need a new engine???

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Best Answer - Chosen by Voters

That's always interesting.

 

Know what 2 Stroke Oil is??

 

Highly Concentrated "ENGINE OIL FLUSH" mixed about 50/50 with engine oil

 

It Flashes Out of the Crankcase of a 4 stroke very quickly(relatively speaking),,

and beats the Livin' Daylights outa the Oil on it's way out.

 

It AGES the Oil Package at a rate of 5~10X normal.

 

What You end up with is a Crankcase with a LOW Oil Level(Because 1/3 to 1/2 of the LIQUID VOLUME has almost Immediately Evaporated)

Whats Left is Non Detergent Base Oil.

 

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It has several side effects which are foreign to 4 Stroke Operation.

 

It Destroys Spark Plugs.

It Pings/detonates .

It carries a load of raw oil Into Combustion Chamber ,,,via rings and valve guides.

 

It's a "Penetrating Oil" type effect.

 

And the Solvent Fumes aspirated thru all the engine's working clearances acts like Really ROTTEN ,Low Grade Fuel

 

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The components which are at greatest risk in YOUR engine,,Your Honda CBR 125,,,,are the EXACT SAME parts which would be at greatest risk in Honda Engines since 1950's 50cc Cub 50's.

 

Valve TrainAssy.

Primarily ,,Camshaft "Bearings" which is The Cylinder Head itself.

And the Cam and Rockers.

 

If Youu wanna open the Valve Covers and feel the things,,,they should have barely noticeable rocker arm/valve clearance "by feel".

If they have a bunch,,,where you can notice a larger,distinct motion of the rockers/valve adjusters going up & down when you feel them----all that Clearance came from SOMEWHERE.

 

In such cases where cam/Bearing damage is suspected,,,it's often a sign that Cam has eaten the Bearing surface,,,and thus dropped down lower "into" head & away from rockers,,,increasing Valve Clearance as a result.

Bad Sign,,,real bad sign.

Easy to pull cam and viisually inspect if so desired.

 

Piston and Cylinder Do Not Care.

Valve Guides Do Not Care .

Roller Bearings,,Do Not Care

Needle Bearings,,Do Not Care

 

They only care about having Oil,,and 2T IS Oil

 

It IS Oil with a Double Dose of "Engine Flush",,

 

AND "Fuel Injection Cleaner" which is MEANT to clean valves,ring grooves,carbon deposits

 

When the 2T Oil is Run in a SUMP where it recirculates,,

and NOT "Total Loss" >>Depleted as intended for 2 Strokes,,

It begins to Thicken and GEL.

 

It takes quite a bit of run time to actually experience probs with that

 

Ever fool with Diesel Engines??

(NOT ME,,I hate the stinkin',rattlin' things.

Though I do respect them.)

 

The Effect of 2T oil being run in a Sump is VERY Similar to what a Diesel Engine Oil experiences from the inevitable presence of DIESEL FUEL gradually contaminating the Engine Oil.

 

At Oil Change Time,,,Diesel oil is BLACK,,"Dirty"--Carbon Loaded,,,and Congealed from the effects of the Fuel.

 

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So,,,what Using Wrong Oil in your bike has accomplished from Nearly the Beginning of being in the motor

is the exact same as running VERY OLD,,,VERY DIRTY Light Weight Oil.

 

Got any Idea how many 10's of MILLIONS of engines are Run like that?

 

NOPE,,NOT Good ,,Not at All.

But they DO Run,,,long time.

Eventually the Wear does get to them,,,or Damage occurs during extreme operating conditions.

 

 

If You went and ran the shittz outa your bike for an extended time,,,

You've done nothing any different than run it on Old,worn out Oil.

Did You DAMAGE anything??

 

Besides Spark Plug,,,,NOT Necessarily.

 

But it sure will RUN Bad real quick.

 

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Go Find some NON-Detergent Oil.

20W or 30W

 

Use that and run engine at Low Speeds,,,under Light Load/small throttle openings.

Meaning,,Dont Lug it around in Hi Gear just to keep Revs Down

 

Ride it about 5~10 minutes,,,then LET IT SIT a Few Hours and Drain it.

Let It Drain at least 30 minutes or so till Not a Drop is hanging.

 

Sounds Counter Intuitive to use NON-Detergent Oil to CLEAN the Engine Out.

I look foward to all the Corrections from the Yahoo Bike & Oil Experts about that.

 

But we AINT cleaning out the Engine.

We are Cleaning out the CARBON.

You Poured More Volatile Hydrocarbon into that engine ,,,and are left with more CARBON in it (The crap which turns Oil Black),,

Than all the Carbon left in a Texas Ranch BBQ Pit Mornin' after July 4th Picnic.

 

Detergent Oil CARRIES Carbon,,so as to Carry it OUT of the Drain Plug.

Meanwhile,,,it CIRCULATES and SUSPENDS it In The Oil.

 

Trying to get Your OVERDOSE outa that motor with Detergent Oil is like Wet Moppin' a Dirt Floor.

All Your Doing is Spreading it Around.

 

NON-Detergent Oil dont float SQUAT.

Carbon Falls OUT of it.

Let nasty old Black NonDetergent sit in a Glass overnite,,,You'll Find Sediment settled on Bottom,,and Clear Oil Floating on Top.

 

Detergent Oil wont ever settle out and clear up

 

Thats what You wanna do 1st---"Rinse Engine" with NON-detergent so the Excess carbon falls to Bottom of sump,,,instead of just getting swirled around and recirculated.

 

OK?

Just a Few Minutes Run time at full operating temp & low/moderate speeds.

 

THEN,,,Refill with some Light Multi Vis,,,10w30 or whatever.

 

RIDE it about 30 minutes going thru the gears frequently,,,"Stop & go",,like around the neighborhood.

 

NOW,,with the Detergent Oil which Will Carry the Carbon along,,,

You want it swirling thru all the gears,internal shifting mechanism,clutch,etc.

 

So just a short "hi-way cruise" dont achieve that goal as well as going up/down thru the gears and clutching it.

 

After That,,,

Change Oil AGAIN to a good high quality 20w-50.

Run it for a 100 or 200 miles,,,and Change it again.

 

That should put you back on normal schedule

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*Drain the 2Stroke Oil,,,Fill with NON detergent RIDE a few Minutes

*Drain the Non-D,,,Fill with LIGHT Multi-Vis and ride a few minutes

*Drain the LIGHTweight Oil,,,,Fill with Correct,Normal Oil,,,ride a few HOURS

*Finally,,,Drain that,,,and Fill with Proper Oil.

 

Dont Imagine that You can Use an "ENGINE FLUSH" as a Shortcut.

 

And,, Detergent Oil gets Overwhelmed almost Instantly,,Initially.

 

You already DID That with the 2T,,,"On BIblical Proportions"!!!

You gotta get that Overdose OUT.

 

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You can Expect to trash a New Plug or 2 while all this is taking place.

Bring a Plug & Wrench with you on your RINSE Rides

 

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On the Other hand,,,I'm not a Psychic.

Maybe it IS Toast already??

I'd be surprised,,,but it's Possible.

 

If a Fresh Plug and Oil dont make it run and quiet the Noise Right Away,,,Maybe it has been damaged?

 

Majority of the engine is almost Immune to damages from the type mistake you made.

 

But the Cam/Valve Train is Very susceptible to damage.

And such damage Will make it Sound Terrible and Run way bad.

 

If You've Been Running that wrong oil consistently for a long time,,,Very Good chance of damage.

 

If it was only a 1-time error,,,ya probly didnt hurt it

 

Good Luck