SBF SYM Cafe 2009 / 2010

[bargarbutt]

Everything else seems fine, its a PGO GMAX 125CC.

Edited January 17, 2012 by Kushinagar

[Living stone]

is it the yellow one? mine is reg 2010. now itchy backside wanna change bike. hehe. but this bike is gd...problem free. but b sure to check the belt condition. mine had to b changed after 12k km of use. the whole belt got shredded n bike cant move. had to tow to shop. lucky no damage to other internal part.

 

Mine is black. Hunting for this model here for quite sometime. Part of the reason I choose this model is because of it's cool passenger foot rest. My wife got problem resting her legs as she not so tall. This model put a smile on her face.

[shorty]

Doesn't the V belt disintergrate when snapped like the T Max, Silverwing and Piaggio scooters !! If the Sym doesn't, then there is some serious problem !!!! ANyway, shall diligently changed at 12k as recommended by the manufacterer.

 

i dunno abt belt snapping. when i rode my x9, it can last 20k. didnt know for sym can last max 12k.

[shorty]

Mine is black. Hunting for this model here for quite sometime. Part of the reason I choose this model is because of it's cool passenger foot rest. My wife got problem resting her legs as she not so tall. This model put a smile on her face.

 

i chose this bike cos it's air cooled n a more simple bike than other scoots. simple maintenance with big underseat space.

[Living stone]

Yup. Read the review is pretty good.

[Dino Bravo]

Hi All...

My GTS200 water temp suddenly became very hot.

I've since changed the coolant (Flushed and replaced).

But its still hot.

 

Normal curising: highway 80-100kmh.

Normal temp : 1 bar constant. unless severe jam, 2 bars max.

 

Lately, curising at 80-100kmh, it is at 2 bars. Sometimes 3 bars.

For the first time today it hit 4 bars, just 1 bar below RED.

 

Today for the first time, the temp hit 4bars. Just 1bar below RED.

Can anyone advise?

 

Could it be water pump not working?

Or combustion running too lean?

Inferior coolant quality?

What are the possibilities?

Any experienced riders on GTS pls advise

[deepblur]

1. Let the engine and coolant cool down, than open the main tank top cover (be careful of pressure, only open when cold).

 

2. start engine and rise the RPM to about 3000~4000 (be careful back wheel don't touch the floor to avoid sudden movement).

 

3. observe the coolant opening, if you see the coolant flows according to the RPM, the water pump is ok, otherwise, the pump or other parts are in trouble.

 

4. when you ride and temp go very high, pull aside and try to listen to the cooling fan, 'hear' if it is working with wind sound, if no sound or the sound too gentle, the fins may be jammed hence cannot cool the tank.

 

There are other cause of failure commonly found in SYM cooling system like thermostat failure, temp sensor failure, wiring open circuit, etc but the most important is the water pump and the cooling fan, do try the initial test and get back here if you find some sight of abnormality.

[Dino Bravo]

Bro. Thanks for your advice.

 

My observations

 

Water pump seems alright. But only about rom 4.5k - 5k onwards then I see significant coolant flow

 

Fan operates well. Strong n loud

 

What would you advise from here on

[deepblur]

As long as there is flow is ok, so now confirm fan ok, water pump ok.

 

Do take note that this few days weather were very hot, so temp may up a bit.

 

Next question, if you flushed coolant tank, are you using 50/50 ratio or more water than coolant? more coolant is ok but make sure using non corrosive type of coolant only.

 

Also, have you change spark plug? if so, what plug you are using? only use CR8E and on others as bikeshop may use short plug which is cheaper but combustion will be bad. Fuel/air mixture can also raise temp, especially using wrong plug.

[Dino Bravo]

Thanks for the valuable advises.

 

Coolant ratio I'm not sure as the workshop did the top up

In fact the heating problem started before i flushed coolant

I've not changed plugs yet

 

My best bet now should be the air fuel mixture running lean.

Or thermostat.

 

I'm bringing it to another workshop tmr to check

 

 

Will update here

[syamfir]

Welcome to the family

 

Thanks Bro!

[kodokers]

 

if u guys remember,I am attempting to replace my variator and

 

clutch with aftermarket ones.

 

Not waiting for the spring anymore,no time.

 

It has somewhat hit a road block, couldnt get the variator nut off.

 

Transmission cover no problem in opening,8 short screws,1 long

 

screw and another screw which screws

 

the airbox together with the transmission cover.

 

Used an air impact wrench(taiwan) to loosen the clutch nut, no

 

problems but when i tried to loosen the variator nut it

 

wouldnt move! tried and tried sheesh.....maybe from factory

 

they whack strongest setting.

 

Forgive me for not taking pics of the original clutch bell and

 

clutch, visually not very nice with crude workmanship, mass

 

produced items what do I expect.

 

my next step will be to go for my servicing and ask them to

 

change for me the items.

 

Will it void my warranty? or should I go to another workshop

 

for that?

 

Thanks Guys

[Dino Bravo]

Thanks for the valuable advises.

 

Coolant ratio I'm not sure as the workshop did the top up

In fact the heating problem started before i flushed coolant

I've not changed plugs yet

 

My best bet now should be the air fuel mixture running lean.

Or thermostat.

 

I'm bringing it to another workshop tmr to check

 

 

Will update here

 

It seems like engine head gasket worn.

Any idea how much to replace?

[deepblur]

Gasket is not expensive, but the workmanship will be expensive.

 

Make sure find a reliable bikeshop to do the job, as things can go very wrong if handled by the wrong guy.

 

Good luck.

 

 

It seems like engine head gasket worn.

Any idea how much to replace?

[Dino Bravo]

Gasket is not expensive, but the workmanship will be expensive.

 

Make sure find a reliable bikeshop to do the job, as things can go very wrong if handled by the wrong guy.

 

Good luck.

 

Thanks for all the advise bro.

Went to get it checked just now.

 

It was the coolant reserve tank having a very tiny leak.

$120 in all, to flush the coolant and top up new coolant. (the coolant is "tea" colour even though I flushed 2weeks ago. Apparently the mech didnt do a good job.)

Of cos, I did belt and roller change as well.

Variator housing internal worn, changed it as well.

Damn cost me quite a bit.

Feels good now

[quizesilver]

Thanks for all the advise bro.

Went to get it checked just now.

 

It was the coolant reserve tank having a very tiny leak.

$120 in all, to flush the coolant and top up new coolant. (the coolant is "tea" colour even though I flushed 2weeks ago. Apparently the mech didnt do a good job.)

Of cos, I did belt and roller change as well.

Variator housing internal worn, changed it as well.

Damn cost me quite a bit.

Feels good now

 

your 120 include variator?? then it is quite cheap already right?!

[Dino Bravo]

120 is for the replacement of expansion tank n flushing / replacement coolant

20 for new pressure cap

180 for variator

175 for belt rollers n u-clips

 

548 in all. Including labour n such

[Dino Bravo]

Engine temp still running high. But much better than before

 

Previously after 3 min 3km riding, coolant start to boil

Now at 10 min 8km later, temp gauge shows 3-4 bars.

Hot but no signs of boiling.

pressure issued solved I guess

 

I'm going For the thermostat next and if it doesnt work, I'll have to change the damn radiator

 

Any idea how much

1) thermostat include labour

2) new radiator

[deepblur]

If your lamb's cooling fan did turn on when temp goes up, the thermostat is working, no need to change, unless the fan don't turn on when temp reaching red zone.

 

If the radiator is not rusty or leaking, no need to change also, no different even if you change it.

 

The more important is the type of coolant and the water pump, best to use good quality coolant with anti rust additive and better use pre-mixed type. Observe the coolant flow from the cap opening, it should flow quite smoothly and increase with RPM.

 

The higher than before temperature indication could be due to the temp sensor is 'cooked' and run off a little bit, no problem with that, use it till it don't work properly than change, don't need to spend unnecessary.

 

The above is my personal opinions, as I see no point spending on our lamb on things not really failed, otherwise you may ended up spending hundred of dollars every few months for no real advantage, Taiwanese lamb is 'so-so' quality, cannot compare it with Honda kind of technology and quality, so just let it run till it cry for help. If you go to bikeshop, they will scare you with all kinds of thing to make you change everything they can think of. If you really racing type, take care of EO, gear oil and spark plug, these 3 things are vital to the health of the lamb, cooling system is ok as long as it is working and try not to modify the electrical system as most bikeshop are not really good at electrical system, things can go wrong to the worst cause fire if short circuited.

[deepblur]

By the book, if you modify your lamb during warranty period, they can void your warranty but it is up to them to exercise this rights.

 

If the nut is so tight, the bigger problem is it may break when try to open it. Normally in this case is better to go to the distributor's workshop as if they break it, they have to fix it for you, if you do it at bikeshop, good luck to you, either you pay for it to repair or take it back, most bikeshop will not responsible for damage in this type of situation.

 

So it is your call to decide, good luck bro.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]232569[/ATTACH]

 

if u guys remember,I am attempting to replace my variator and

 

clutch with aftermarket ones.

 

Not waiting for the spring anymore,no time.

 

It has somewhat hit a road block, couldnt get the variator nut off.

 

Transmission cover no problem in opening,8 short screws,1 long

 

screw and another screw which screws

 

the airbox together with the transmission cover.

 

Used an air impact wrench(taiwan) to loosen the clutch nut, no

 

problems but when i tried to loosen the variator nut it

 

wouldnt move! tried and tried sheesh.....maybe from factory

 

they whack strongest setting.

 

Forgive me for not taking pics of the original clutch bell and

 

clutch, visually not very nice with crude workmanship, mass

 

produced items what do I expect.

 

my next step will be to go for my servicing and ask them to

 

change for me the items.

 

Will it void my warranty? or should I go to another workshop

 

for that?

 

Thanks Guys

[kodokers]

By the book, if you modify your lamb during warranty period, they can void your warranty but it is up to them to exercise this rights.

 

If the nut is so tight, the bigger problem is it may break when try to open it. Normally in this case is better to go to the distributor's workshop as if they break it, they have to fix it for you, if you do it at bikeshop, good luck to you, either you pay for it to repair or take it back, most bikeshop will not responsible for damage in this type of situation.

 

So it is your call to decide, good luck bro.

 

thx man...

[Dino Bravo]

If your lamb's cooling fan did turn on when temp goes up, the thermostat is working, no need to change, unless the fan don't turn on when temp reaching red zone.

 

If the radiator is not rusty or leaking, no need to change also, no different even if you change it.

 

The more important is the type of coolant and the water pump, best to use good quality coolant with anti rust additive and better use pre-mixed type. Observe the coolant flow from the cap opening, it should flow quite smoothly and increase with RPM.

 

The higher than before temperature indication could be due to the temp sensor is 'cooked' and run off a little bit, no problem with that, use it till it don't work properly than change, don't need to spend unnecessary.

 

The above is my personal opinions, as I see no point spending on our lamb on things not really failed, otherwise you may ended up spending hundred of dollars every few months for no real advantage, Taiwanese lamb is 'so-so' quality, cannot compare it with Honda kind of technology and quality, so just let it run till it cry for help. If you go to bikeshop, they will scare you with all kinds of thing to make you change everything they can think of. If you really racing type, take care of EO, gear oil and spark plug, these 3 things are vital to the health of the lamb, cooling system is ok as long as it is working and try not to modify the electrical system as most bikeshop are not really good at electrical system, things can go wrong to the worst cause fire if short circuited.

 

Hi Deepblur, after what you mentioned about the thermostat and fan related issues, i now highly suspect that either 1 or both of these things are faulty

 

1) Thermostat - The fan on and off "as and when it feels like". sometimes on at 2bars or 3 bars. sometimes not on. There was once temp reached 4bars, fan NOT on. I switched off engine and let it rest. So thermostat could be faulty (partially jammed), but not completely spoiled.

2) Fan Sensor Switch - The fan switch could be cooked, or partially spoiled already due to previous overheating.

 

Well, I'll get it checked again on 5th day of CNY. Thats when the bike shops open for business, and i'll come back here again.

[quizesilver]

Gong Xi Fa Cai

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年年有余

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[deepblur]

Yes Bro, the thermostat is not very good (or reliable) after around 1~2 years or >10,000km of usage. My lamb's thermostat also failing, so it is good to change before more damage to the engine block.

 

Temp sensor is not critical as it only use for the temp gauge on the meter, it is not controlling anything, so can leave it till it fail, BTW this can change easily as it is just above the water pump, unlike the thermostat, rather difficult to access.

 

 

 

Hi Deepblur, after what you mentioned about the thermostat and fan related issues, i now highly suspect that either 1 or both of these things are faulty

 

1) Thermostat - The fan on and off "as and when it feels like". sometimes on at 2bars or 3 bars. sometimes not on. There was once temp reached 4bars, fan NOT on. I switched off engine and let it rest. So thermostat could be faulty (partially jammed), but not completely spoiled.

2) Fan Sensor Switch - The fan switch could be cooked, or partially spoiled already due to previous overheating.

 

Well, I'll get it checked again on 5th day of CNY. Thats when the bike shops open for business, and i'll come back here again.

[mdjjz]

Hi Dino, I'm using a 2004 Sym Joyride 200, all more the same problems u had I also had, changing coolant, cap, coolant tube, sensor etc etc, but 1 thing amiss and I discovered the head block gasket is blown, and there was a tiny pin hole at the steel liner/ alu block interface. The escaped exhaust heat and boil the coolant and oil with it, cause overheating and temp goes 4 bars. The oil goes to the coolant system and change to tea color. So the solution I had to do top overhaul and change the block, piston, rings and cleaned valves.

Wow presto, the bike back to normal and always back to 1 bar and at most 2 bars, before any 3 bar appears.. the fan kick in and within mins drop to 1 bar. cheers