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Posted

Hi A S Poon has got 2 2nd Hand GTS200 selling at $4700 machine price. I just bought mine for $5200 FBE plate. Now my question is when must i change my belting? and where? plus can anyone post SYM GTS200 specification? thanks a lot

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Posted

You can google for sym gts 200 and you can easily find the specs for GTS.

 

Recommended belt change every 12k, Taiwanese change at 15k, as mileage goes on, the change interval should be reduced (15k->12k->10k) or more check on actual belt condition is highly recommended.

 

Watch out for GTS with difficulty in morning start engine, many of them after 2 years having this problem and bikeshop have a cheating way to cover this problem, if not notice and continue, the engine will be in big trouble after 5~7k or running.

 

Welcome to the SYM gang, ride safe and enjoy the wind. :cheeky:

 

 

 

Hi A S Poon has got 2 2nd Hand GTS200 selling at $4700 machine price. I just bought mine for $5200 FBE plate. Now my question is when must i change my belting? and where? plus can anyone post SYM GTS200 specification? thanks a lot
Posted

I have a brand new set of front brake brake pad brought extra for sale, details as follow:

 

Brand: SBS

Part no: SBS 178 SQ

For: SYM Joyride 01 onwards, GTS (check)

ISO 9001 certified, Made in Denmark.

High performance Ceramic type for street and highway usage.

 

Brought this at shop and later decided to go for racing pad (cost me $38 incl/installation) as I found it available.

 

Shop price: $22, brought $18, letting go $15, +$5 for installation (optional)

 

Anyone interested please let me know. Thank you.

Posted
You can google for sym gts 200 and you can easily find the specs for GTS.

 

Recommended belt change every 12k, Taiwanese change at 15k, as mileage goes on, the change interval should be reduced (15k->12k->10k) or more check on actual belt condition is highly recommended.

 

Watch out for GTS with difficulty in morning start engine, many of them after 2 years having this problem and bikeshop have a cheating way to cover this problem, if not notice and continue, the engine will be in big trouble after 5~7k or running.

 

Welcome to the SYM gang, ride safe and enjoy the wind. :cheeky:

 

Hi Bro, difficulty starting in the morning meaning

 

1) Just crank without throttle. Hard to start

2) Crank with slight throttle, but still hard to start?

 

WHen i crank without slight throttle, it is difficult to start.

With a bit of throttle, it fires off without effort.

 

Is this normal?

Posted

It is quote normal but best is without throttle to start, for your case I believe the idle is a bit low hence you need to up throttle a bit.

 

The typical hidden problem is first crack start, than vibrate and die off, after that very difficult to start regardless of with or without throttle up. Bikeshop usually turn the idle to 2000+ to hold the running but very soon this will destroy the engine with long list of servicing needed to restore.

 

The sym 4v engine idle should be around 1600~1800 (max), anything above that is waste petrol and not good for the engine. GTS is less superior than Joyride (with fuel injection), as carb will not (and unable) auto regulate the idle and air/fuel mixture for optimal burn at rest, slow or high speed. It will be perfect if GTS come with fuel injection.

 

Hi Bro, difficulty starting in the morning meaning

 

1) Just crank without throttle. Hard to start

2) Crank with slight throttle, but still hard to start?

 

WHen i crank without slight throttle, it is difficult to start.

With a bit of throttle, it fires off without effort.

 

Is this normal?

Posted

Thank for all the advises.

I removed the thermostat yesterday night. Apply liquid gasket n install back the housing.

No more overheat. Confirm thermostat. But may have other hidden problems as well contributing to the problem.

Today I brought to the workshop to confirm other hidden problems.

A bit late due to cny period all shop close. Radiator had a slight hairline crack. Getting the radiator replaced. Hope it puts an end to the problem.

How much is the radiator going to cost any ideas. Thanks

Posted

Today i went down to future scootering to check on my bike temp overheating,

The mech check my bike.. Flush and cleans coolent radiator..

This is my 2nd coolent flush done.. But still bike overheating otw traveling back home.

According to the mech, if the same problem occured, 90% confirm is the top block gasket need to be replaced .. So far no leakage found on radiator or reservoir..

 

To changed to top gasket is quite ex leh.. Any other alternative ways other than changed of top gasket? The mech told me confirm not coolent pump or the thermostat problem..

 

Someone pls help.. Feel very trouble here...

Posted

Have you go back to mah? They are the agent.

http://images.quizesilver.multiply.com/image/8/photos/19/500x500/1/Picture3.jpg?et=pp72A3vHiyWV%2B1gmEDuh4g&nmid=137248738
Posted

Bro, don't simply believe what mach told you, they do anything and you pay, problem can or cannot go away is not their concern.

 

If there is no cross contamination between coolant and EO, gasket should be intact, the purpose of top gasket is to block and separate the coolant and the EO walls in the engine block, it don't do temp control.

 

May be you can do the following checks:

 

1. open the radiator cap (when cold) start engine and observe the coolant flow, it should flow faster with higher RPM, as long as there is flow and reasonably smooth and fast, water pump is ok.

 

2. let the engine temp go up and hear for the cooling fan sound, it should kick in and out when temp is higher than 1/2. If not, either fan or thermostat failed, otherwise, both are ok.

 

3. check the radiator cap, if the cap worn out, it should be replaced, coz this may block the channel between radiator tank and the reserve tank flow, causing temp to go up. One way to check is the reserve tank should be a bit warm when the engine temp is high (actual coolant exchange occurred).

 

4. if the cooling system is working fine, next test is compression test, if any of the 4 valves not close properly, it can cause very high temp leak and big damage, if this happened, need to go for top overhaul (problem is not the gasket but the valves and probably piston and rings).

 

Problem 4 can be observed by unstable firing and hesitated engine sound, this will be the worst case scenario.

 

Good luck bro.

 

 

Today i went down to future scootering to check on my bike temp overheating,

The mech check my bike.. Flush and cleans coolent radiator..

This is my 2nd coolent flush done.. But still bike overheating otw traveling back home.

According to the mech, if the same problem occured, 90% confirm is the top block gasket need to be replaced .. So far no leakage found on radiator or reservoir..

 

To changed to top gasket is quite ex leh.. Any other alternative ways other than changed of top gasket? The mech told me confirm not coolent pump or the thermostat problem..

 

Someone pls help.. Feel very trouble here...

Posted
Today i went down to future scootering to check on my bike temp overheating,

The mech check my bike.. Flush and cleans coolent radiator..

This is my 2nd coolent flush done.. But still bike overheating otw traveling back home.

According to the mech, if the same problem occured, 90% confirm is the top block gasket need to be replaced .. So far no leakage found on radiator or reservoir..

 

To changed to top gasket is quite ex leh.. Any other alternative ways other than changed of top gasket? The mech told me confirm not coolent pump or the thermostat problem..

 

Someone pls help.. Feel very trouble here...

 

Hi bro. Almost every damn mech will tell you that it is head gasket. I dunno why, but it seems they always blame the gasket

Truth is, the gasket is rarely the problem. But not impossible.

 

Check for the following signs first to confirm if it's gasket. If none of these signs appear, then it's other things.

 

1) white smoke from exhaust. Lots of white smoke.

2) engine oil in coolant. (open reserve tank n look inside for traces of oil)

3) coolant in engine oil. Oil will look like chocolate milk. (check your engine dip stick)

4) if you're free, remove your under seat luggage compartment. Look at the whole engine block. Is there any signs of oil or coolant leakage

 

I am currently experiencing overheat problems. Every mech told me it's gasket. But I'm not convienced.

So I did my own checks with some research on the web

 

Turns out it's not gasket.

Thermostat played havoc n cracked the radiator due to high heat.

Don't let mech fool you. You know the problems best. Do some research n self tests before confronting mech. That way they know they can't smoke you.

Posted

Hi Dino Bravo, thanks for the advise.. Appreciated it..

 

Hi Shorty, me no idea where is botak shop or AC motors shop.. Did when to Mah, they too cant detect the problem.. Did coolent flush with them only...

 

First timer owning an auto scooter.. And im loving every ride with it..

Posted

Bro, we all here to help each other and learn along the way, just share what we know or experienced.

 

Any interest to try electronic thermostat? there are a lot of reviews on ET benefits over mechanical thermostat, also save more petrol (?) with the better temperature control.

 

I am getting one to try on my evo, sick of the thermostat as it is not cheap yet don't last.

 

 

Hi Dino Bravo, thanks for the advise.. Appreciated it..

 

Hi Shorty, me no idea where is botak shop or AC motors shop.. Did when to Mah, they too cant detect the problem.. Did coolent flush with them only...

 

First timer owning an auto scooter.. And im loving every ride with it..

Posted

i think my bike is coming from bad to worst.. now ticking sound very loud can hear from the engine.. im not sure what is that..

temperature rise up to four bars without fan on now.. really headache man.. my bike is just two years old bike.. haiz..

 

dont know what exactly happen to it suddenly..

 

to which shop i shop send for checking?

Posted

Bro, whatever it is, I suggest you install a by-pass switch (manual switch) to force on the fan when temp goes up, before the engine head really burnt out.

 

You can contact me if you need help.

 

i think my bike is coming from bad to worst.. now ticking sound very loud can hear from the engine.. im not sure what is that..

temperature rise up to four bars without fan on now.. really headache man.. my bike is just two years old bike.. haiz..

 

dont know what exactly happen to it suddenly..

 

to which shop i shop send for checking?

Posted

Bro, I got a honest shop if u want, he repair my 4 yes 4 scooters and I trust him a lot, these scooters are Suzuki Epicuro 150, Sym Joyride 200, Gilera VXR200 and latest is Yamaha Majesty 250. Only the Suzuki was sold to a friend cos he liked it too much and I cant bear the loss. So I still had 3 more scooters to play around and my Sym was the one I told earlier thread, where I had a severe case of coolant overheat to 4 bars, that there was a blown gasket and a pinhole sized hole that leaked heat and extraboil the coolant to 4 bars.

Name is Ah Peng 91462863

Location is Woodlands Road, next to Stagmont Ring Road (ex Caltex station)

 

01082010314.jpg IMG_1124.jpg IMG_1756.jpg IMG_1733.jpg

Posted

Hi and happy cny to all!

Im joining the sym family soon. will get my joyride 200i evo tml from Mah!

Cant wait to ride it, been years since i last ride.

 

Want to check with you guys if our new bike come with SYNTHETIC OIL or NON-SYNTHETIC OIL?

As i intent to do the hard run in.

 

Thanks all!

Posted
Bro, I got a honest shop if u want, he repair my 4 yes 4 scooters and I trust him a lot, these scooters are Suzuki Epicuro 150, Sym Joyride 200, Gilera VXR200 and latest is Yamaha Majesty 250. Only the Suzuki was sold to a friend cos he liked it too much and I cant bear the loss. So I still had 3 more scooters to play around and my Sym was the one I told earlier thread, where I had a severe case of coolant overheat to 4 bars, that there was a blown gasket and a pinhole sized hole that leaked heat and extraboil the coolant to 4 bars.

Name is Ah Peng 91462863

Location is Woodlands Road, next to Stagmont Ring Road (ex Caltex station)

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]233641[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]233648[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]233649[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]233650[/ATTACH]

 

Hi bro mdjzz, thanks for ur recommendation, will call him later & ask to check my GTS, hope nothing serious..

 

Hi deepblur, will call u up for the installation of the bypass switch for fan. For now need to go to the shop

that bro mdjzz recommend first.

Posted
Hi and happy cny to all!

Im joining the sym family soon. will get my joyride 200i evo tml from Mah!

Cant wait to ride it, been years since i last ride.

 

Want to check with you guys if our new bike come with SYNTHETIC OIL or NON-SYNTHETIC OIL?

As i intent to do the hard run in.

 

Thanks all!

 

Probably non-synthetic, but I'm not 100% sure. Hard run-in means MotoMan's method?

 

Just to share, I did a hard run-in according to the method and so far my bike is running nice and smooth at slightly under 1600 km.

Posted
Probably non-synthetic, but I'm not 100% sure. Hard run-in means MotoMan's method?

 

Just to share, I did a hard run-in according to the method and so far my bike is running nice and smooth at slightly under 1600 km.

 

yes i'll b doing MotoMan's method, the link was shared by u to me.

ill check with mah tml about the oil.

i belif in his theory and thus will try it out.

when u change ur 1st oil? Any advice for me regarding hard run in?

Posted

Most car/motorbike/scooter shipped with normal oil 'with additive' to give the best first ride experience but cannot last. During run-in, best is use non-syn oil to 'capture' the particulars during run-in, syn oil more on protection but not on capturing. Second oil change onward can use syn oil for smoothness and protection.

 

Hard run-in is good to get the engine and moving parts to season condition, but in fact this worn out the engine and moving parts, it is like running 5000km when you actually running for 1000km. This is especially true for small cc engine as the parts are tiny.

 

You feel good for the start but expect everything feel 'lose-lose' after 1~2 years (or est 20k mileages) of usage due to the accelerated and uneven worn of engine and parts. Most hard run-in bike/scooter need to do some overhaul after 30~50km mileages to restore the tight and power feel unless you don't mind or intent to sell it off fast.

 

First oil change is 300km for Sym and good to change again at 1000km (non-syn oil ok) and next change at 3000km (syn oil recommended), a bit kiasu but best for the health of the engine and moving parts especially if you intent to hard run-in.

 

yes i'll b doing MotoMan's method, the link was shared by u to me.

ill check with mah tml about the oil.

i belif in his theory and thus will try it out.

when u change ur 1st oil? Any advice for me regarding hard run in?

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