omnislash

Givi box Micro 2 for giveaway Condition 5/10 8 years old. Working condition. Hinges bit rusty. Locks works fine with spare key. Has 2 holes drilled to install back rest cushion. Givi base plate brand new for sale at $10 neg. For Micro 2, Simply series. Note: Brand new Givi boxes come with base plates. Whatsapp: 964 one one 55 two Self collect Teban

Mine stuck at 15km/l for very long already. Used to be 18 when she's young.

For my case Yup. You have to look up your manual / parts catalogue to figure it out. If I got time I will look it up for you.

I dunno about k5 1000 leh. Sry. But u need to know how to change the coolant yourself.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.178520698956.159474.661018956&type=3

Same thing happened to my FJR. The o-ring is gone. When I took out the water pump assy, its pretty much corroded as well.

The "tick" is a real and common issue in Gen 1 as documented in fjrowners.com. A guy by the web-name "warchild" remove the valve and valve guide to show the amount of wear but Yamaha has not issued any recall for this "problem". As far as I know, there isn't any major damage resulting from this inherent defect, at least in Singapore. I do believe over time, FC will deteriorate quite badly. I'm gg at 15km/l with a mileage of 200, 000km.

I did. You too?

I have tried Looi's Meng Tong (he no longer there though), HL Jabar, Perfection Motors Allan, and Racewerks.... To be honest, the best mechanic is still yourself if you know what ur doing... I do all the basic maintenance myself.... All the mechs that I've encounter have proven to be good at times and bad on some other occassions... They range from minor maintenance slip-ups like losing some of my fairing fasteners, putting back fasteners at the wrong place, forgetting to install back the water drain hose... A bit more major cock up is nv tighten my steering stem nut to the correct torque... The things is, all the shops that I've gone to ain't cheap so I expect some kindof quality in place... I'm currently sticking to Racewerks cuz by far, their value for money has a slight edge over the rest and its nearer to where i'm staying. Norman, Sam and gang are very helpful and open to discussion on technical issues... Ultimately, they (ALL Motordiam) are all trying to make a living and if they can earn more from you, who wouldn't. Do a bit of research on the maintenance you want to do then ask for quote before you commit.

My bad, there is a replacement kit, 5JW-W0042-50.

Gen I model (Gen II as well I think) has a common problem that the rear brake lever doesn't retract back when the lever pivot point gets dry.... Some wd40 usually does the trick for a while.... Racewerk says the return spring in the rear master cylinder weak liao... Too bad, if you look up the IPC, the rear master pump comes as a set.... I considering to change too, 80 bucks from AM, cheap cheap....

Hmmm... I actually just send my bike to Racewerks for clutch plate replacement (it "lasted" 10 years and 200,000 km) as well.... I didn't replace the clutch housing, not sure why they say need to change. If you say change the clutch spring still make more sense as spring looses its tension over time... But clutch spring AM say nobody order before I assume no one replace before and nv give problem.... As for rear wheel bearing, http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/4/Make/Yamaha/YearID/45/Year/2004/ModelID/6048/Model/FJR1300/GroupID/244370/Group/REAR_WHEEL Must have: item 2, 6, 10 (bearings) Highly recommended to have: item 4 and 8 (Oil Seals) good to have: item 5 and 7 (Collar) (you nv know if the mechanic is considerate enough in taking them out) Item 2 alternate : SKF 6304-2RS1/C3 Item 10 alternate : NTN 6204LLUCM (you need to buy 2 of this cuz the yamaha part comes in a set of 2 bearings) Item 6 dimension : Needle cage bearing ID-25 OD-34 Width-26 Item 6 doesn't have an exact interchangeable (at least during that time) but I got one thats 1mm shorter in width and it works fine. The bearings lasted longer than the stock ones. You can save about 40-50% if you get these alternate brand bearings but they are pretty cheap from AM anyway. The main reason I bought alternate ones is because some of these bearings ain't in stock in AM (its a hell lot more ex if you buy from HL). I recommend you change the bearings when your tire is due, incur less labour charge... They shouldn't charge you more than 20 bucks on top of your wheel change price imho. Bear in mind that mine is '03 model but i'm 99% sure they are the same. Item 6 appears as different Part # in the '03 and '04 IPC but the part number in the '03 IPC is actually superceded by the one in '04. Shaft spline seal: There is one o-ring at your final drive hub around the shaft... It basically helps contain the oil in the hub... If the o-ring is worn, oil starts to leak to the shaft housing (swing arm)... There's a little weep hole at the shaft housing to drain out any oil leakage so its very obvious... Not rocket scientist knowledge.

I have no prob getting spare parts too... Gen 1 the best, no sophisticated but unreliable gadgets...

I just stream.

I rmb fork is 0.7L per side.