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Posted

Hi, I am riding RVF and i notice my bike is hotter than other bikes of my same class.. heard from others that their fan wun on when there's no traffic jam but my fan will on whether or not there's a traffic jam. May I know what is the cause? Could it be engine problem? I am already using Engine Ice coolant le..

 

Another thing is I find it hard to kick to neutral after my bike is hot.. the gear lever will be very hard and i tend to kick to 2nd gear..

 

my bike recommend 10W-30, 10W-40 or 20W-50 EO but I not sure which is more suitable for Singapore and for my case.

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t286/modenaboi/signature.jpg

 

Practical Test Checklist:

√ Sudden and late braking

√ Faulty signal lights

√ Superb use of horn

√ Assume road belongs to father

√ Never at fault no matter what happens

√ Tailgating confidence

Result: YES! You qualify to become a Singapore car driver!

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Posted

rvf gets hot easily...hm if gets 2 hot, ride faster...

maybe not cause of engine oil u cant kick the gear, check the lever, may be loose..

YAMAHA FZ1S ABS 2K12

Posted

hey bro bout ur heat incident,there might be some reasons.....1st of all u must check that ur radiator is not leaking.....cos when i used to ride a rvf the same thing happen and there was a leak at the radiator which made the radiator dried up.....another thing is ur thermostat sensor might be faulty....then also u must check ur radiator cap too for leaks.....the fan thing seems to be working....and thts good lor.....the leak made me change a new radiator which cost me 500+.....lets just hope u dnt need to lor....as for ur EO......which type is suitable for our climate is not the Q...but how viscous ur EO is thats what important.....the front number eg 15W is at what temp that ur EO will start to freeze...if its 15 it will freeze at -15c.....but the important is the last two digit which is how viscous or how thick ur EO is.....the bigger the number is the thicker it is(i think).....thicker is better to me but some people may think the other way.....so its still up to u...

Posted

the fan turns on at a preset temperature, so since ur temperature is always high, of course it will turn on more often than others.. maybe u can check ur engine oil.. when was the last change? wat type are u using? fully-syn? if it always run hot, can also be ur radiator choked, can also be ur engine oil too little(will cause trouble to gear changes) already or maybe ur radiator too little coolant.. V engines are known to consume more oil than other types of engines..

 

just a guideline, mineral oil will heat up slow, but also cool down slow.. fully synthetic oils heat up fast and also cools down fast. 10w-30, 10w-40 not much difference but u really dont need to use 10w-30 because our climate is really hot. 20w-50 is not really recommend altho it may cause ur engine to run slightly hotter.. my bike will run at 90-100 degrees celsius with 20w-50 mineral oil, but when using 10w-40 fully syn oil, it will run at 80-90 d.celsius at normal 90-100kmh cruising. maybe u can also check ur thermostat... thats the part that switches on and off ur cooling fans.. it could be choked or just faulty.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m58/abm_shafiq/IMG_6747.jpg

 

#63

Posted
hey bro bout ur heat incident,there might be some reasons.....1st of all u must check that ur radiator is not leaking.....cos when i used to ride a rvf the same thing happen and there was a leak at the radiator which made the radiator dried up.....another thing is ur thermostat sensor might be faulty....then also u must check ur radiator cap too for leaks.....the fan thing seems to be working....and thts good lor.....the leak made me change a new radiator which cost me 500+.....lets just hope u dnt need to lor....as for ur EO......which type is suitable for our climate is not the Q...but how viscous ur EO is thats what important.....the front number eg 15W is at what temp that ur EO will start to freeze...if its 15 it will freeze at -15c.....but the important is the last two digit which is how viscous or how thick ur EO is.....the bigger the number is the thicker it is(i think).....thicker is better to me but some people may think the other way.....so its still up to u...

 

may i correct u on the 10W or 15W definition, W is abbreviation for Winter... if i am not wrong, thats the number of viscosity of the oil at 0 degrees celsius... same thing for the 2nd number... eg: 10w-40, 40 is the indication of the viscosity number of the oil at 100 degrees celsius... hence the name, multi-grade oil..

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m58/abm_shafiq/IMG_6747.jpg

 

#63

Posted

i tink u should be rite.....my bad bro...

may i correct u on the 10W or 15W definition, W is abbreviation for Winter... if i am not wrong, thats the number of viscosity of the oil at 0 degrees celsius... same thing for the 2nd number... eg: 10w-40, 40 is the indication of the viscosity number of the oil at 100 degrees celsius... hence the name, multi-grade oil..
Posted

ok my fan sensor is not working, I have a switch to manually on the fan when the temp is about 1/2 way to 'H'.. and somehow it will reach 1/2 way point even if i am travelling at 100+ at night.. and I on the fan to stabilize it at that temperature..

 

nothing is leaking.. i will check the floor for any signs of liquid every morning or before every ride..

 

dun think radiator not enough coolant also.. changed to Engine ice juz about 3 weeks ago..

 

usually change coolant, the mechanic will know whether radiator got choke or not de right?

 

seems like 10-40 is one of the more recommended EO.. i haven changed mine yet.. i bought the bike about 2 months ago.. the boss told me new fully-sync EO, new spark plug, new coolant (i still changed it), new battery..

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t286/modenaboi/signature.jpg

 

Practical Test Checklist:

√ Sudden and late braking

√ Faulty signal lights

√ Superb use of horn

√ Assume road belongs to father

√ Never at fault no matter what happens

√ Tailgating confidence

Result: YES! You qualify to become a Singapore car driver!

Posted
i tink u should be rite.....my bad bro...

no worries bro.. the internet is an amazing thing.. it can really bring u the truth, and it can also severely mislead someone.. been there, done that.. :lol:

ok my fan sensor is not working, I have a switch to manually on the fan when the temp is about 1/2 way to 'H'.. and somehow it will reach 1/2 way point even if i am travelling at 100+ at night.. and I on the fan to stabilize it at that temperature..

 

nothing is leaking.. i will check the floor for any signs of liquid every morning or before every ride..

 

dun think radiator not enough coolant also.. changed to Engine ice juz about 3 weeks ago..

 

usually change coolant, the mechanic will know whether radiator got choke or not de right?

 

seems like 10-40 is one of the more recommended EO.. i haven changed mine yet.. i bought the bike about 2 months ago.. the boss told me new fully-sync EO, new spark plug, new coolant (i still changed it), new battery..

then something is not right with your bike.. it could be a whole lot of reasons why this is happening.. u should take ur bike back to the shop or ur favourite mechanic, to check wats goin on.. u cant be sure if the mechanic can tell if there's anything wrong with ur bike by just changing the coolant... sometimes the problem only appears during riding or when ur pushing ur bike to its limits... or try changing the EO... because u can never know if the previous EO is even enough. serious overheating will lead to serious repair bills.. :lol:

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m58/abm_shafiq/IMG_6747.jpg

 

#63

Posted
may i correct u on the 10W or 15W definition, W is abbreviation for Winter... if i am not wrong, thats the number of viscosity of the oil at 0 degrees celsius... same thing for the 2nd number... eg: 10w-40, 40 is the indication of the viscosity number of the oil at 100 degrees celsius... hence the name, multi-grade oil..

 

the 1st 2 number show the range of temp where the eo will freeze up. 0W is at abt range of -30°C, a 5W at abt -25°C and a 10W is abt -20°C..

:)

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2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)

2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK

2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK

2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)

2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

Posted
no worries bro.. the internet is an amazing thing.. it can really bring u the truth, and it can also severely mislead someone.. been there, done that.. :lol:

 

then something is not right with your bike.. it could be a whole lot of reasons why this is happening.. u should take ur bike back to the shop or ur favourite mechanic, to check wats goin on.. u cant be sure if the mechanic can tell if there's anything wrong with ur bike by just changing the coolant... sometimes the problem only appears during riding or when ur pushing ur bike to its limits... or try changing the EO... because u can never know if the previous EO is even enough. serious overheating will lead to serious repair bills.. :lol:

 

ya.. think i need to first check the normal temperature for this bike.. who knows, maybe it's normal for my bike and i'm over-reacting..

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t286/modenaboi/signature.jpg

 

Practical Test Checklist:

√ Sudden and late braking

√ Faulty signal lights

√ Superb use of horn

√ Assume road belongs to father

√ Never at fault no matter what happens

√ Tailgating confidence

Result: YES! You qualify to become a Singapore car driver!

Posted
the 1st 2 number show the range of temp where the eo will freeze up. 0W is at abt range of -30°C, a 5W at abt -25°C and a 10W is abt -20°C..

:)

 

:thumb: thank u.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m58/abm_shafiq/IMG_6747.jpg

 

#63

Posted

u mentioned..difficulty to engage to gear1...

engine hot...

 

2 things come to my mind....

 

why gear 1 problem?? worn clutch/gear..or just simply need to change EO or even a simple case of not adjusting the clutch cable properly

 

engine hot??cooling system not working..slipping of clutches (do you have a problem of choppy surges of power?? loosing power..compared to normal riding..all these are signs of clutch wear..this wear will create heat instead of power in your bike..

 

or simply a case of of needing a radiator flush...

 

 

IMHO

Never argue with an idiot. They'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time:dot:

Posted

EO..

 

let me relate a bike purchase long time ago..

the owner says no problem lah..everything ok..see engine clean and no leakages..

 

to my horror...when i rode it home...after a couple of km..the high temp signal came on at a traffic junction when i stopped..next the EO light came on..

 

alamak..that guy is a slimmy one..when reach home did a thorough check..

 

radiator fluid..top up almost .5L..

EO..cannot be detected ..top up 1.5L...then u see the leaking oil coming out..

 

 

lesson learn...must check this 2 item when buying oild bike..if neccessary smell the EO..if there is a hint of a BURNT smell...ok deals off..

 

Take care..hope u r not facing the same problems..

Never argue with an idiot. They'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time:dot:

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