Basic Maintence of NSR-SP

[ChuaJustin]

Guys, needed help here though. Am a New license rider and currently riding Honda SP. What i do is i will conduct regular checks on the 2T oil. And i buy a bottle of Esso 2T oil from Shell, costing about 9dollar plus, didnt really know wht range is it in, i guess its semi syn. Wht i wanted to ask and know is does the range of the 2T affect the performance of the bikes? Wht will happen if i use a lousy 2T? And how do i check if my engine oil needs to be change? And does the range of engine oil (eg, Fully syn, Semi syn) affects the performance of the bikes? And regarding my chain wise, am starting to get worrid cause, rust are forming up everywhr. How do i get rid of the rust? And i believe each biker here does lub their chain, whts the main purpose of lub-ing the chain? Is it a must fr me to clean the chain before i lub? If yes, cn i clean it using WD-40? And i realise, in the market, theres chain lub and chain wax. Do they serve the same purpose? If no, chain wax or lub is more essential? Pardon me fr asking so many qns, cause am just a new rider, hopes some big guys out thr will help me out, esp those riding NSR-SP too.

Thanks folks.

[craz_03]

Guys, needed help here though. Am a New license rider and currently riding Honda SP. What i do is i will conduct regular checks on the 2T oil. And i buy a bottle of Esso 2T oil from Shell, costing about 9dollar plus, didnt really know wht range is it in, i guess its semi syn. Wht i wanted to ask and know is does the range of the 2T affect the performance of the bikes? Wht will happen if i use a lousy 2T? And how do i check if my engine oil needs to be change? And does the range of engine oil (eg, Fully syn, Semi syn) affects the performance of the bikes? And regarding my chain wise, am starting to get worrid cause, rust are forming up everywhr. How do i get rid of the rust? And i believe each biker here does lub their chain, whts the main purpose of lub-ing the chain? Is it a must fr me to clean the chain before i lub? If yes, cn i clean it using WD-40? And i realise, in the market, theres chain lub and chain wax. Do they serve the same purpose? If no, chain wax or lub is more essential? Pardon me fr asking so many qns, cause am just a new rider, hopes some big guys out thr will help me out, esp those riding NSR-SP too.

Thanks folks.

 

if u're living in the west.. u can always meet me up n i can give u tips easier..

did u buy the bike from a forumer or a bikeshop?

if bikeshop, u can always go back n complain about the chain n let them change a new one..

the normal heavy duty costs 50 bucks to change.. o-ring chain ard 100-120 n x ring ard 150.

unless u got a 428racing hub.. den normal heavy duty chain can liaoz.

 

better pickup use sprockets for rear ard 39-40.

better top end use the smaller ones.

if ur sprrockets are sharp, u need to change them.. preferably changing together with ur chain so u wun damage ur sprockets using the old chain or spoiling the new chain with the sharp sprockets.

dun use wd 40 to clean.. instead, use a de-greaser u can find @ esso or shell or gt 85..

chain wax n lube serves same purpose.. lube holds on while wax flings more i presume.

 

2t range for urs ok la.. unless u racing den go for top notch 2t 15+ - 20+

if not, 8-10 bucks enuff liaoz.. normally shld be ard 4 full tanks refill b4 ur 2t runs out.. .when ur 2t is running out, ur speedo there will light up.. unless the led spoilt.

 

eo needs to be changed when u feel ur gear is hard to kick or hardto go to neutral light. semi syn n fully syn nth much.. semi u can go ard 3k-4k b4 changing

fully syn ard 5-6k b4 changing.

 

as i said, unless u racing, den use the high priced ones..

if not, u pump 95ron enuff, use 8-10+bucks 2t enuff. n semi syn enuff.

but once every 4 full tanks, give ur bike a life using v power or 98.. den 2 times cheap 2t.. change to a better priced one like esso gold or rs959..

all the simple stuffs u go ah boy buy cheap cheap.. petrol station selling more ex.

 

the rest if u need more help, kindly go to sportsbike under nsr150sp riders, post there, more ppl view more help.

[popmynutsy]

bro, me also ride sp. eo change every 5k or around 3 months. but advice maybe 2 months just change. chain wise, u can clean it using toothbrush and wd40. beside the place where u top up ur 2t, got 1 more cap right? tat 1 must add water. and chainwise, everytime u tighten ur chain, just tell the towkay to chain the oil for u too. 6 months full service 1 time. tats wad i do la. hahahaha. take good care of ur bike.

[Rafiq]

this is a good thread for newbie like me to learn

[Hydher]

keep track of your mileage for servicing benefits. Better be safe than sorry. For duration of oil changes for your gear box, look up on nsr threads.

 

For chain lubing, i use maxima chain wax(not guard) because its the only one ive tried so far which does not fling to your back rims. cost $12 for a small and $20 for a big bottle. Will lub my chain every week or two. Initial stages go hard on it. After that use tissue to wipe can already. It keeps the bike running smoother and prolongs your chain life and keeps it looking great =)

 

For 2t, get better quality one for engine and environment sake. Can get it from kelantan lane ah boy cheaply.

[Rafiq]

if i were to lube my chains/cables, can ask the shop to do for me? Roughly how much do they charge?

[Hydher]

I believe that you are new and young. Therefore, we like to keep our bikes rims clean. Bikeshops wont lube your chain with maxima chain wax. if you like dirty rims, go ahead but perhaps after they service your bike. cables.. perhaps at the shop when you are servicing your bike. For chain lubing they probabbly wont charge. cables im not sure too. Im a diy person

[craz_03]

bro, me also ride sp. eo change every 5k or around 3 months. but advice maybe 2 months just change. chain wise, u can clean it using toothbrush and wd40. beside the place where u top up ur 2t, got 1 more cap right? tat 1 must add water. and chainwise, everytime u tighten ur chain, just tell the towkay to chain the oil for u too. 6 months full service 1 time. tats wad i do la. hahahaha. take good care of ur bike.

 

coolant dun anyhow add water unless ur coolant leaking!!!

there's a high n low gauge for u to see ur coolant level everytime b4 u start ur bike in the day.. if its below the middle gauge of high n low den u need to top up..

unnecessary topping up of water may lead to ur radiator breaking down n too much water will make the radiator lesser space for thew compressed hot air n thus spoiling the rad again.

 

keep track of your mileage for servicing benefits. Better be safe than sorry. For duration of oil changes for your gear box, look up on nsr threads.

 

For chain lubing, i use maxima chain wax(not guard) because its the only one ive tried so far which does not fling to your back rims. cost $12 for a small and $20 for a big bottle. Will lub my chain every week or two. Initial stages go hard on it. After that use tissue to wipe can already. It keeps the bike running smoother and prolongs your chain life and keeps it looking great =)

 

For 2t, get better quality one for engine and environment sake. Can get it from kelantan lane ah boy cheaply.

 

2t, 8-10+ alrdy quite ok liaoz..

most imptly is warm up ur bike b4 moving off..

those 4dollars+ one dun get better.. haahaa

[Aalex82]

too much water will make the radiator lesser space for thew compressed hot air n thus spoiling the rad again.

 

 

 

 

care to explain?

[craz_03]

care to explain?

 

simple reason, u cant be simply filling up the whole coolant with water....

 

there's a minimal space to allow for the coolant to have for expansion when they are hot, that's y normally they dun suggest u open the rad cap when ur engine's hot or when u juz stop the bike coz of the compressed steam n water will squrt out (heat travels up)

 

that is y coolant have a standard reading at every coolant.. the H & L mark n the readin of coolant in between the 2 markers. the same goes for cars.

 

the next thing is.. water has a lower boilin temp den coolant, so as u keep adding water, the coolant will have a a lower boiling point n tends to vapourize away, thus needing to add more water soon. by the time u know it, ur situation is the same as my first sp,

 

white steam coming out from the radiator when @ customs waiting, radiator broke down, pump spoil...

[ChuaJustin]

thanks folks fr all the advice given.

[Aalex82]

simple reason, u cant be simply filling up the whole coolant with water....

 

there's a minimal space to allow for the coolant to have for expansion when they are hot, that's y normally they dun suggest u open the rad cap when ur engine's hot or when u juz stop the bike coz of the compressed steam n water will squrt out (heat travels up)

 

that is y coolant have a standard reading at every coolant.. the H & L mark n the readin of coolant in between the 2 markers. the same goes for cars.

 

the next thing is.. water has a lower boilin temp den coolant, so as u keep adding water, the coolant will have a a lower boiling point n tends to vapourize away, thus needing to add more water soon. by the time u know it, ur situation is the same as my first sp,

 

white steam coming out from the radiator when @ customs waiting, radiator broke down, pump spoil...

 

for the point which water having lower boiling point is rite...

the rest u hav the concept wrong..

rad is needed to fill full, completely full..

if u hav study thermodyanmics, u will understand that not onli diff substances in a content will increase the boiling point, increase of pressure will oso increase the boiling point..

 

Y we need to increase boiling point??

liquid is a better heat transfer medium compare to gas, therefore we need to keep the coolant in the liquid state..

 

if u observe the rad cap, there are diff spec.. 0.9, 1.0, 1.1 bars..

these specs information state the pressure that the cap can withstand before allowing the water to escape into the reservoir..

[craz_03]

for the point which water having lower boiling point is rite...

the rest u hav the concept wrong..

rad is needed to fill full, completely full..

if u hav study thermodyanmics, u will understand that not onli diff substances in a content will increase the boiling point, increase of pressure will oso increase the boiling point..

 

Y we need to increase boiling point??

liquid is a better heat transfer medium compare to gas, therefore we need to keep the coolant in the liquid state..

 

if u observe the rad cap, there are diff spec.. 0.9, 1.0, 1.1 bars..

these specs information state the pressure that the cap can withstand before allowing the water to escape into the reservoir..

 

ehh..

i'm speaking from the point of view using sp.. a 2 stroker..

wat my mechs told me is wat i had typed..

sorry for the wrong info given den.. haahaa.

[Aalex82]

ehh..

i'm speaking from the point of view using sp.. a 2 stroker..

wat my mechs told me is wat i had typed..

sorry for the wrong info given den.. haahaa.

 

radiator work the same for bikes and even cars..

the diff between 2 stroke and 4 stroke bike is how the piston move to complete a complete combustion cycle..

if that is wat yr mech teach u abt radiator and cooling system, i suggest u start finding another shop, i sense of big big knife wif a carrot head..

[Phang]

bro Aalex82,

 

I think craz_03 was talking about the expansion tank

 

I never see a radiator with Hi Lo markings on it

[queirtus]

agreed with phang, care to post a pic to show the Hi and Low marking of the radiator of NSR SP bro Alex?

[craz_03]

bro Aalex82,

 

I think craz_03 was talking about the expansion tank

 

I never see a radiator with Hi Lo markings on it

 

 

 

yupz yupz..

i was toking about the rear tank.. not the front of coz.. haahaa...

the front all is the rad fins n only the cap n the tube... i meant the rear reservoir...

sorry if i mislead u to tinking about the radiator itself.. =)

[queirtus]

yo craz do post a pic man.......

[Aalex82]

bro Aalex82,

 

I think craz_03 was talking about the expansion tank

 

I never see a radiator with Hi Lo markings on it

 

i was refering to the one he mention that there are no space in the radiator for the coolant to expand..

i skipped the rest of it cos in the 1st place is a wrong explanation..

how can a full filled coolant reservoir damage the coolant pump??

[Phang]

I agreed with you, a full filled coolant reservoir will not damage anything except the coolant will overflow from the reservoir when the radiator is heated up

[ahduck]

And i buy a bottle of Esso 2T oil from Shell, costing about 9dollar plus

 

Huh i didnt noe Shell sells Esso's 2Ts. :confused:

[ahduck]

I happen to went to amk tech park or something anywae for those who noe seng kwang its the industrial building. Just 3 or 4 shops down opposite seng kwang, a shop selling a very rare fully syn 2T is Duckhams QTT used to sell a LAB but is was like 8yrs ago. Say to say end of production liao. Very plastic smell from exhaust and i would say at least twice better/ smooth then esso gold aka mobil1 gold. Not to say current lousy castrol R2 used to name TTS. But take note the date of manufacture is year 1998. Violently upz. If anyone going there pls help mi buy thanks

[queirtus]

castrol R2 lousy?

[coldblizzard]

Hmm..about the coolant issue, I hear some people say, now the coolant cannot mix with water, so if I see that the coolant level is low, what am I supposed to add then?

 

If really must add water, tap water or distilled water? I read the manual and it says distilled water, then some people say cannot add water...so..blur ley.

 

Maybe some bros can clarify?

 

Thanks

[Toyota23]

i notice.. Our SP. Chain very easy get long onev