Temperature increase fast.

[BELRAY]

i think there is a post u missed out... i think is wanwan who posted it.. saying tat by summarising it will be around 85 air n 15 fuel.. or smth like tat...

 

 

ohhhs okay thanks for your info!

 

air/fuel ratio depends on ya jets also ... no mechanic unless hes ya gd fren wld tune for u coz its too troublesome to tune and changing jets ... u juz look at ya spark plugs will do .. too black is too rich and too white is too lean ...

 

 

okay thanks alot!

[_Na]

U're very welcome... jz doing smth really small... not worth mentioning... ^^

[Raptor]

Air fuel mixture is governed by jetting sizes. Air filters or the lack of it.. affects the mixture ratio. No air filter... run lean. Dirty air filter... run rich. Exhaust clogged with carbon.. run rich... exhaust cut or silencer removed... run lean.

 

Tuning a carb is not as easy as just looking at the plug colour and selecting a jet for it. Got to look at the whole set up from air filter to exhaust.

 

You have an idle jet and a main jet in the carb.

 

You need to determine whether you are running lean at low rpms or high rpms.

Idle jet works from 0 to 1/4 throttle. Between 1/4 to 3/4 its your idle jet and main jet, main jet needle taper and clip position. 3/4 to wide open throttle.. its the main jet that talks.

 

So where you running lean at?? On a wrongly jetted bike.. you can run lean at idle but rich at high rpms or vice versa.

 

Most people do not pay attention to the radiator.. which works on a pressure cooker principle. The spring of the radiator cap (normally rated to hold 1.1 bar) can weaken with use or the gasket seal will age harden and leak. No hold back of pressure... coolant will boil off... radiator becomes inefficient at dispersing heat from engine.

 

I would change the cap first.

 

Some cheapos add water to the radiator... which promotes corrosion and oxidation which in turn clogs the passages of the radiator core.

 

Radiator becomes ineffective and gets hot very fast. Please... that is not a sign of an efficient radiator.

 

Preferably use pure coolant and distilled water if you have to add water. Going with cheap coolant will end up with costly engine repairs.

 

Its your money and your choice.

[_Na]

Air fuel mixture is governed by jetting sizes. Air filters or the lack of it.. affects the mixture ratio. No air filter... run lean. Dirty air filter... run rich. Exhaust clogged with carbon.. run rich... exhaust cut or silencer removed... run lean.

 

Tuning a carb is not as easy as just looking at the plug colour and selecting a jet for it. Got to look at the whole set up from air filter to exhaust.

 

You have an idle jet and a main jet in the carb.

 

You need to determine whether you are running lean at low rpms or high rpms.

Idle jet works from 0 to 1/4 throttle. Between 1/4 to 3/4 its your idle jet and main jet, main jet needle taper and clip position. 3/4 to wide open throttle.. its the main jet that talks.

 

So where you running lean at?? On a wrongly jetted bike.. you can run lean at idle but rich at high rpms or vice versa.

 

Most people do not pay attention to the radiator.. which works on a pressure cooker principle. The spring of the radiator cap (normally rated to hold 1.1 bar) can weaken with use or the gasket seal will age harden and leak. No hold back of pressure... coolant will boil off... radiator becomes inefficient at dispersing heat from engine.

 

I would change the cap first.

 

Some cheapos add water to the radiator... which promotes corrosion and oxidation which in turn clogs the passages of the radiator core.

 

Radiator becomes ineffective and gets hot very fast. Please... that is not a sign of an efficient radiator.

 

Preferably use pure coolant and distilled water if you have to add water. Going with cheap coolant will end up with costly engine repairs.

 

Its your money and your choice.

 

heah bro, mind telling if u know anywhere i can check my radiator by a pro or specialise on radiator?? i've no idea why it gets hot in the hot afternoon when i'm riding at 100kph on:dozed: TPE...

[Raptor]

heah bro, mind telling if u know anywhere i can check my radiator by a pro or specialise on radiator?? i've no idea why it gets hot in the hot afternoon when i'm riding at 100kph on:dozed: TPE...

 

Is yours an old bike or new bike? Older bikes tend to suffer from the clogging of the radiator core by hard water deposits.

 

You can get off the shelf radiator cleaners which are fluids that you add into the radiator to let it circulate around as you ride for half an hour or so. These cleaners will dissolve all the oxides and deposits. The radiator is drained and flushed with water. New coolant is then added to the system.

 

Or you can go to Mayo Street (Sing Hong) and look for Ah Seng to help you out. He does all my bikes and recently I did the radiator flush using Motul products and had the coolant replaced.

[BELRAY]

Air fuel mixture is governed by jetting sizes. Air filters or the lack of it.. affects the mixture ratio. No air filter... run lean. Dirty air filter... run rich. Exhaust clogged with carbon.. run rich... exhaust cut or silencer removed... run lean.

 

Tuning a carb is not as easy as just looking at the plug colour and selecting a jet for it. Got to look at the whole set up from air filter to exhaust.

 

You have an idle jet and a main jet in the carb.

 

You need to determine whether you are running lean at low rpms or high rpms.

Idle jet works from 0 to 1/4 throttle. Between 1/4 to 3/4 its your idle jet and main jet, main jet needle taper and clip position. 3/4 to wide open throttle.. its the main jet that talks.

 

So where you running lean at?? On a wrongly jetted bike.. you can run lean at idle but rich at high rpms or vice versa.

 

bro, i think most people will be running lean on low rmps and running rich at high rpms.

just like my current bike right now.

rode a sp and my full take its 10.5L included reserved.

i can only go till less then 150km of petrol before reserved.

i always rode 100km/h.

and my friend sp can go till 300km included reserved.

how come like this? isit my tuning its bad?

so how do i tell the mech what to tune?

cause my FC its very bad.

please advise.

 

thanks alot!

 

 

Most people do not pay attention to the radiator.. which works on a pressure cooker principle. The spring of the radiator cap (normally rated to hold 1.1 bar) can weaken with use or the gasket seal will age harden and leak. No hold back of pressure... coolant will boil off... radiator becomes inefficient at dispersing heat from engine.

 

I would change the cap first.

 

Some cheapos add water to the radiator... which promotes corrosion and oxidation which in turn clogs the passages of the radiator core.

 

Radiator becomes ineffective and gets hot very fast. Please... that is not a sign of an efficient radiator.

 

Preferably use pure coolant and distilled water if you have to add water. Going with cheap coolant will end up with costly engine repairs.

 

Its your money and your choice.

 

bro, so if we're using those concentrated type of coolant, we pre-mix about 50% of coolant & 50% of distilled water? tap water can be use also?

[_Na]

Is yours an old bike or new bike? Older bikes tend to suffer from the clogging of the radiator core by hard water deposits.

 

You can get off the shelf radiator cleaners which are fluids that you add into the radiator to let it circulate around as you ride for half an hour or so. These cleaners will dissolve all the oxides and deposits. The radiator is drained and flushed with water. New coolant is then added to the system.

 

Or you can go to Mayo Street (Sing Hong) and look for Ah Seng to help you out. He does all my bikes and recently I did the radiator flush using Motul products and had the coolant replaced.

 

Raptor bro.. I cannot la.. now very buget... need to do everything myself if possible... but like u said put cleaners in n run for half an hr... den flush wif water den won't it be oxidised again n once again deposit into my radiator???

[Raptor]

bro, i think most people will be running lean on low rmps and running rich at high rpms.

just like my current bike right now.

rode a sp and my full take its 10.5L included reserved.

i can only go till less then 150km of petrol before reserved.

i always rode 100km/h.

and my friend sp can go till 300km included reserved.

how come like this? isit my tuning its bad?

so how do i tell the mech what to tune?

cause my FC its very bad.

please advise.

 

thanks alot!

 

You just answered your own question. You are riding at high rpms when travelling at 100 kmh. You are correct that most bikes are tuned to run rich at high rpms. High rpms = high fuel consumption. So what are you asking from your bike?????

 

 

 

bro, so if we're using those concentrated type of coolant, we pre-mix about 50% of coolant & 50% of distilled water? tap water can be use also?

 

Use tap water??..... expect mineral sediments to form in the radiator.

[Raptor]

Raptor bro.. I cannot la.. now very buget... need to do everything myself if possible... but like u said put cleaners in n run for half an hr... den flush wif water den won't it be oxidised again n once again deposit into my radiator???

 

That is why there is periodic maintenance for radiators also. You are supposed to change the fluid once every year at least. But most people never do.. and then they complain of overheating on their bikes.

 

Nothing lasts forever.

[_Na]

That is why there is periodic maintenance for radiators also. You are supposed to change the fluid once every year at least. But most people never do.. and then they complain of overheating on their bikes.

 

Nothing lasts forever.

 

I tell u my story... around last week when i finish overhauled my bike.. my mechanic warn me abt my radiator, he said " ur radiator abit jam jam very hot, krr shudn't be this hot 1". so i left malaysia coming back into singapore, still find it okay.. so the following nite i went to unique n do servicing on my radiator. cuz around SGD40, using pure engine ice.. So wad i saw was they release my old coolant n flush wif rushing taps den the pour in engine ice.. but after doing all tat, i start to feel the heat of my bike coming real quick lei.. early afternoon riding average 80kph the temperature meter showing covering 1/3 of the white area.. very smooth traffic.. so i though the weather was bad. tried on early afternoon TPE, same results. but after i get of tpe den all the dark clouds came n it drop back to the tip of the blue area... This is bad rite??? last time my mechanic say kena clog the metre nv show he alrdy toking abt it now the metre shoot up so high > Help

[tree80]

Wah .... i dont expect the thread can be long. Hope tis thread can become

beneficial to others. But seriously some of term use, i dont really understand... veri chim.

 

Anywa just to update u guys, manage to remove my radiator & service/clean it. Pour new coolant pre-mix coolant. the maxina So far good lah. Not really hot compare previously. Btw coolant can expire not. Got left over. Can keep till year not ???

 

Btw _Na, Btw i tried b4 engine ice seem doesnt work for my other bike.

I might tinking to change to glyco base coolant. Any recommend one ?????

[_Na]

Btw _Na, Btw i tried b4 engine ice seem doesnt work for my other bike.

I might tinking to change to glyco base coolant. Any recommend one ?????

 

I think the moderator post 1 very power... soon after he post his experience Unique send me msg liew.. LOL.. powerful..

 

eh glyco base ah.. wads tat ah??? i oso duno lei but previously i've use smth which is pink in colour.. tat is used by a motorshop in singapore(pink liquid, transparent bottle... the bottle has a long neck)... duno wad brand oso.. but they mix abit of water.. den the other i tried b4 is malaysia motorshop de, green in colour(the coolant itself), its a white bottle thou.. but heard 1 of my friend who feeds his bike only good stuffs... he said engine ice now is the best he ever used.. he riding super4.. can't help much sry...