SBF Kymco Downtown 125/200/300/350i Cafe 2013

[parotae]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/1eec93fa.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/ea2ddf17.jpg

This is LGE5 Weight (BTW under parts list these are known as clutch weights)

How do we determine the weight besides weighting? Maybe its the number on this pics.

Shown here is 1(LGE5), but i remember the test weight is 2(LEA7).

Hmmm... like this don't know 1 or 2 is lighter, although from what i read LGE5 should be heavier but given the number 1?

Only way is to weigh it when the clutch is out.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/36af2ab8.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/8950b81a.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/4e33edea.jpg

Weight of 2 pieces

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/078b1d99.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/c128a8fe.jpg

[parotae]

So each piece is about 320g (Hope its accurate, Daiso scale haha.)

 

320gX3=960g

 

Beside the weight, the 3 spring holding the clutch also contribute to how fast or easily the clutch engages.

 

So let's say if you want it to engage the clutch to the bell earlier say 2000rpm instead of 3000rpm, you can opt to have the clutch heavier which in this case is harder as weights are pretty much fix. Clutch springs are cheap and in a sense more practical, so changing to a weaker spring will do just the trick. Now comes the question, why Kymco didn't use a weaker clutch spring but instead chose a heavier weight. Could it be a heavier weight can dampen more vibration?

[parotae]

Link to Parts List for SK60AA(Before 2011) English

http://forum.jorsindo.com/attachment.php?aid=1182552&k=34fe01f4d0b8dc89b351381ab2e72730&t=1322720402

 

SK60AF (Model with hazard light function) Chinese/English

http://forum.jorsindo.com/attachment.php?aid=1182862&k=d1bd4145131729d80b9fb85358c3e3ac&t=1322721073

 

Electrical Diagram (English)

http://forum.jorsindo.com/attachment.php?aid=1182863&k=d57fe5bf467cf0835a3a4186f98e23ed&t=1322721073

Edited December 1, 2011 by parotae

[parotae]

Now there's a Sport Screen(Smoked) from Malossi for Downtown/Superdink/Dinkstreet/Nikita

Article Code 4515116

[parotae]

News!

 

Just realize that there is 2 different part number for Malossi Multi Var 2000

They have included the 2 different production batches of Downtown. The 2012 (Hazard Light Option) and earlier model with no hazard light.

Wonder how they perform? I read from the Taiwanese webby that the malossi multi Var is heavy in fuel consumption. Don't know if they are running Which Version of Nikita and which malossi multi var.

 

Anyway here's the part number for Malossi Multi Var 2000 for the 2 Downtown model.

For convenience's sake i will categorize them with 'Old' and 'New' instead. Old = No hazard light switch, New=Hazard light switch.

 

Art. 5114238 (Old)

Art. 5114730 (New)

[juanpauk]

News!

 

Just realize that there is 2 different part number for Malossi Multi Var 2000

They have included the 2 different production batches of Downtown. The 2012 (Hazard Light Option) and earlier model with no hazard light.

Wonder how they perform? I read from the Taiwanese webby that the malossi multi Var is heavy in fuel consumption. Don't know if they are running Which Version of Nikita and which malossi multi var.

 

Anyway here's the part number for Malossi Multi Var 2000 for the 2 Downtown model.

For convenience's sake i will categorize them with 'Old' and 'New' instead. Old = No hazard light switch, New=Hazard light switch.

 

Art. 5114238 (Old)

Art. 5114730 (New)

 

Just a quick note in these, unlike the clutch you can not fit the older version of the variator on a new batch model. It will just not physically fit. I will link the source a wee later.

the link in french: http://kymcodinkstreet.asrun.eu/viewtopic.php?id=2548

Edited December 1, 2011 by juanpauk

[juanpauk]

Link to Parts List for SK60AA(Before 2011) English

http://forum.jorsindo.com/attachment.php?aid=1182552&k=34fe01f4d0b8dc89b351381ab2e72730&t=1322720402

 

SK60AF (Model with hazard light function) Chinese/English

http://forum.jorsindo.com/attachment.php?aid=1182862&k=d1bd4145131729d80b9fb85358c3e3ac&t=1322721073

 

 

Electrical Diagram (English)

http://forum.jorsindo.com/attachment.php?aid=1182863&k=d57fe5bf467cf0835a3a4186f98e23ed&t=1322721073

Interesting, mine has engraved SK60A on the engine cover but it has the hazard lights button

[juanpauk]

Link to Parts List for SK60AA(Before 2011) English

http://forum.jorsindo.com/attachment.php?aid=1182552&k=34fe01f4d0b8dc89b351381ab2e72730&t=1322720402

 

SK60AF (Model with hazard light function) Chinese/English

http://forum.jorsindo.com/attachment.php?aid=1182862&k=d1bd4145131729d80b9fb85358c3e3ac&t=1322721073

 

 

Electrical Diagram (English)

http://forum.jorsindo.com/attachment.php?aid=1182863&k=d57fe5bf467cf0835a3a4186f98e23ed&t=1322721073

Interesting, mine has engraved SK60A on the engine cover but it has the hazard lights button

[juanpauk]

@parotae

 

I wish to be able to detach the clutch assy from the other big round base part (dont know the name). Do you require especial tools for it?

[parotae]

Interesting, mine has engraved SK60A on the engine cover but it has the hazard lights button

 

Mine has the same engraving SK60A also. Its the alphabet after the 'A' that determine the different batch of production.

eg. SK60AA, SK60AB, SK60AD, SK60AE, SK60AF not sure if there is SK60AC.

[parotae]

@parotae

 

I wish to be able to detach the clutch assy from the other big round base part (dont know the name). Do you require especial tools for it?

 

The big round thing with the clutch is the torque driver assembly (in parts list known as Face Assembly Drive)

 

Ha ha i do use pneumatic tools to loosen the big nut(41mm). Once its loosen a bit i use both my knee(using rags to cushion my knee resting on the clutch) to compress/prevent the clutch from jumping/spring up and using hand to loosen the nut. Once the nut comes off, the torque spring will spring up forcefully so do be very careful especially your face. The spring force maybe between 10-15kg maybe less

 

Oh yes, remember to use marker to make markings on the nuts you loosen so you can tighten back to the correct torque without a torque wrench.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/3b780d39.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/1dd708c4.jpg

[parotae]

Ha ha thought of making these myself.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/Homemade_Variator_Tool02.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/variator002_212.jpg

[parotae]

@juanpauk

Wow, that's a load of information over at the French web site.

 

Went through with translate, the mech says unable to mount because it's not purchase (Malossi Multi Var 2000) from them.

 

Then the next response,

Quote:

Ben your mechanic to me like being a famous puppet crazy !

You have many good ref, 5114238, mine is mounted and drove 1300 miles without the belt does not complain of anything. What an ass he's already had his initial thoughts of arousing your suspicions about his skills.

 

Go ahead, up it yourself, it's really simple. I did the 125 and the 300 without any difficulty. You must not mount the clutch spring malossi which simplifies the job.

Tightening the nut to vario 100N / m, which corresponds to a tightening in the male ratchet if you have no torque wrench.

 

You will not be disappointed with the malo on the 300! I am the rollers Pulley who arrived phlegm but also re-open for any ride.

 

So that means this guy fitted with no problems.

 

Then again, a LEA7 Variator can fit into the new engine and vise versa, i don't see why malossi won't be able to fit.

In theory Art. 5114238 can fit into a 2012 model and Art. 5114730 can fit into an old model.

 

The difference between the two Malossi Multi Var beside the part number is to me - performance.

 

The old model have more power and higher rpm hence malossi recommends Art.5114238

If you fit Art.5114238 (heavier Malossi roller) on the new model with lower power and lower rpm, i guess the performance will not be optimize. There is less power to spin the heavier roller and the peak rpm tune for 8500rpm cannot be use.

Then again (my Theory) what if you use the old model with the new Malossi Art.5114730? I think the scoot can fly! Ha ha .

 

You see, the 5114730 are tune to compensate the lower power and lower peak rpm of the new model, an older model that uses it will have very fast pick up and higher speed.

 

Since the newer part number are tune for new model and even better on older models, why didn't malossi just use this new parts instead, rather than having 2?

 

I guess the answers is balance. The new part number can have very good performance on older model but it maybe not optimise for better fuel economy and a waste of useable power.

 

All info here are base on my own assumption

[juanpauk]

Easier than what I though. I have a torque wrench so it will be just a matter of getting the 41mm nut.

When I take the bike to the mechanics I think they don't bother with torque values, they have an electric wrench but there is no meassure involve, they might not like me telling them how to do their job so I just re-adjust the torques at home.

[juanpauk]

@synman

 

It is quite hard to understand the translation, you have to read many times to get the idea. You cannot use the older Malossi Multivar on the newer Downtown model (there will be a belt problem):

Quote "This is not the right model vario, the belt 300 Dsi is notched on both sides, it rises up out of the groove of the pulley to come slamming on the housing."

[parotae]

Yes, I torque everything to specification. The only tightening torque that I can't seem to find is the oil filter cover. I torque to 20Nm as suggested on other kymco that have a similar oil filter cap. The oil filter cap is not meant to be tighten tightly.

 

Yeah, I saw the scooter shop just torque in the nut until the socket stop moving. Must be over 100Nm on those Variator nut and clutch nut ha ha.

 

Had witness synman clutch fly upwards when the mech just loosening it with a pneumatic wrentch without even holding the clutch. The weight of the air wrentch stop the clutch from flying upwards ha ha.

[juanpauk]

I see why you told me once that you prefered to carry the jobs on your bike yourself.

[juanpauk]

Having trouble finding a 41mm socket for my 3/8" wrench, all I can find is sockets for the 3/4" wrenchs... is there some sort of adapter? so that I can use my 3/8" wrench with a 3/4" socket?

[topgearalwaysrock]

Oh boy! Despite me from Mechanical Engineering, I have the vaguest idea of what your are talking about....

 

Or maybe its just my unsettled brain from memorizing parts of CAAS' airworthiness legislation.... Haha!

[parotae]

Not familiar with imperial system and yes there are adapter for this situation. big to small, small to big

 

Please confirmed that the nut is 41mm.

Although I am sure that it's 41mm.

Ha ha I don't buy the tools, I borrow them. If it fits I use. End of the day I forgot what nut is what size ha ha.

 

Yes, I do prefer to service the scoot myself. For basic replacement like belts and roller is still manageable. Others like steering cone, have no choice but leave it to the professional.

Edited December 1, 2011 by parotae

[juanpauk]

Thanks, I will take my wrench to the shop where I got it and ask them to get me sorted with the adapter.

@topgearalwaysrock

Give it time and you will be able to talk in our lingo . When I bought my bike the most technical stuff that I was able to do was, Petrol filling and pumping the tyres. Luckly I've come accross people like parotae and somehow I manage to steal their knowledge

[topgearalwaysrock]

1 inch = 2.54cm or 25.4mm....

 

Fractions just do the respective conversions. Haha!

[topgearalwaysrock]

Thanks, I will take my wrench to the shop where I got it and ask them to get me sorted with the adapter.

@topgearalwaysrock

Give it time and you will be able to talk in our lingo . When I bought my bike the most technical stuff that I was able to do was, Petrol filling and pumping the tyres. Luckly I've come accross people like parotae and somehow I manage to steal their knowledge

 

 

 

Haha. Actually, basic servicing one can also do themselves. Its just that we won't do it as efficiently and professionally as a proper mechanic.

 

Plus I dont really have the time to do all these things. Haha!

 

Imagine a normal servicing takes a mechanic 15-30mins, how long would I a noob take?

[parotae]

1 inch = 2.54cm or 25.4mm....

 

Fractions just do the respective conversions. Haha!

 

Wah, still very chim ha ha.

[synman]

@juanpauk

 

So has your Malossi bell arrive yet?