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Noah
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Posts
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Everything posted by Noah
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ok, ok ... maybe he's rushing to throw in the first incense offering. You know, like in Taiwan ?
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did you say sandy ground ? I think maybe .. meybe he's trying to kick up the dust by riding fast through the sand .. then look very stylo mah
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Hi sorry to interrupt, anyone can tell me where the Ah Bee motortiam is ? Need the road name. Thanks.
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Using the horn isn't really that bad idea. Sometimes it can save you in an emergency. If you are concerned about the horn scaring people, try practising until you can produce just a short beep on the horn instead of the usual long blast. Beeps dun scare people. Sometimes when a driver drifts beyond his lane and into my lane, I will give 2 beeps. The driver suddenly realises he's very close to me and responded quickly by returning to his lane proper.
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Can't really say I always keep in queue, but I do most of the time. If it's peak hour, and I am way behind in the queue, and it'll be some thing like the 3rd green light or more before I can move up the queue and cross the junction, then I will consider moving to the front. Other than that I stick to the queue in everyday thoroughfare. To be fair to the drivers, if I occupy the whole lane, then I'll also queue up with the cars.
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For the same scenario, I will reposition myself so that he will be blocked and can't creep up on my left (meaning occupying the entire lane) instead of making space for him by moving nearer to the kerb. It's a bit unfriendly, but I think it's necessary for your own safety.
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http://www.supershowevents.com/super/sbk-concept1b.gif Fuel Cell Powered (Electric) Electric Drive Steer by wire No Exhaust
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Hey Raptor, some times idiots need to be taught a lesson before they will learn. I realised that myself too ... But try to be more "merciful" next time. Scare him a bit and let him go bah. It's not really nice to see blood on either side.
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mine too
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rider leg injured head-on collision, that's why front wheel spokes broken taxi bonnet quite seriously damaged also
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In the news just now ... a green KRR collided with taxi in Woodlands spokes of front wheel all broken Nose fairing all gone ...
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Ahh ... but that one is called a fuel shutoff valve, to be more specific.
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Suggest that you dun replace your fairing for the time being. Newbies tend to fall during the beginning phase. So after you change, there may be a high chance you might fall again (touch wood, I know). Then your money will be wasted on the new fairing. Rather, I would suggest that you ride for another few thousand kilometres (by then you should have gained sufficient experience and you chances of falling should be reduced greatly) before you change a new set of fairing. More worth it this way. However, if you have the money, you can get fairings from LAB (Lim Ah Boy) at Kelantan Lane or FJT along Rowena (somewhere near Deskar). Roughly, it's $50 per piece of fairing. Do note that piece as in, one part of the fairing, not the whole set. Take care !
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if the crack is small, why no just leave it. You can use stickers creatively to cover up the cracked area. But if you have cash to burn, you can buy the whole fairing. One piece costs about $50. FJT carries original parts for KRR, and is located at Rowell Rd, just opposite Regina
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The brake fluid reservoir for the rear brakes is located on the right hand side near the tail board. To see the reservoir, go to the right hand side of your bike and squat down facing the exhaust can. Look for the mono rear shock, when you have found it, look around the area, and you should see a plastic cup with black cap. That is the rear reservoir. Brake fluid and 4T are not related. 4T is oil used to lube your engine gears. Brake fluid is used to actuate the brake pistons so that they push on the brake pads onto the brake disc producing friction which ultimately stops your bike. On the brake fluid reservoir, there is a max and min level marking. Maintin the fluid level between this marking. If the fluid is lower than the min mark, you will need to top up the fluid. It is recommended to change the brake fluid periodically. Brak fluids hydroscopic. This means they tend to absorb moisture. When they do, they become useless; the heat generated during braking will heat up the moisture which will become gas. You get bubbles in the brake fluid. This makes your brake system less effective. Change once every one or 2 years should be fine. When you buy brake fluid, take note there is a DOT rating. KRR can use DOT 3 or 4. Do not use other DOT numbers.
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TP's All New Laser Cam and Radar Guns You might be interested to know .....
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the TPs got new toy again. Seems like a hand held portable laser digital cam Just like our handhald movie cam. Menaing, they dun have to set up tripod and equipment and can move around ... very very much more mobile
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After you have changed a new chain, do not forget to spend just a few minutes to inspect your chain before you move off everytime you are on your bike. If the physical condition is questionable, you would have arrested the problem and potentially save your life. Good luck and take good care.
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for both I use castrol ....
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Kino, it's not normal. pai seh, i said too much and you din manage to catch my intended answer.
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does battery venting occur only in batteries for big bikes only ? I have never heard a 2B battery hiss before ...
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Kino, that lamp is a "2T Low" indicator. It lights up when your 2T reaches low level. In practice, when it lights up, you still have enough 2T left to travel for about 5 days at 50km/day, 100km/h assuming you accelerate normally and not whack your throttle and your 2T consumption rate is nominal. The indicator sensor is located in your 2T reservoir where you fill up your 2T. Look at your 2T reservoir and you notice just beside the cap, there's a round button looking thing with wires attached. That is the level sensor for the 2T. If you pull the thing up (no, please don do that yourself), you will find that it's actually a metal tube with some holes along its length. The sensor sometimes gets jammed, so it comes on and off. Sometimes the indicator lites up all the time, and sometimes it doesn't lite up at all. This also happens when the 2T level is near the trigger level, or when you go up slope or over humps. These are false indications. But when you find that the lamp comes on and does not go out at all, the 2T level has triggered the sensor completely, and you will have to start monitor your 2T level. If the sensor is working normally, when you are in neutral gear, the lamp should stay lit. If it does not, tht means there is most probably something wrong with the indicator (perhaps the bulb knocked out, or the wire was loose). When you engage gear, any gear except neutral, and the lamp goes out, 2T level is good. But when you engage gear and the lamp comes on, it may mean your 2T is low, or your sensor is jammed. You will have to check the 2T level yourself visually to confirm. In your case, it's probably false indication. Check your 2T reservoir to confirm.
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Kino, when you first start your bike, electrical power is channelled to power your spark plug. When you switch on your headlight, part of the electrical power generated by the engine is channelled to the headlight. However the healight is another power sucker and may sap away a substantial amount of electrical energy from the spark plug, causing weak sparks. Your engine may or may not die off, but it'll take longer to warm the engine up. 1) KRR requires the idle RPM to be at least 1K RPM with the headlight in order for the engine not to die off. If your idle RPM is lower than 1K RPM, you will have to adjust the idling speed screw. First, adjust the idling to some high setting, maybe half a turn to increase. Start the bike, and if engine doesn't die, switch on headlight. Once headlight on, adjust idling to just above 1K RPM. 2) You may want to check your spark plug and see if there's anything abnormal about it. A dirty or fuel-fouled spark plug may not produce sufficient heat to sustain the engine. By the way, recommend that your start the engine without switching on the headlight first. The engine idle RPM will be slightly high at this stage bcos the headlight is not switched on yet. After the engine has sufficiently warmed up, you can switch on the headlight without fear of engine die-off. And also, the 2T is a lubrication for your engine piston. From what you described, it doesn't sound like it has got anythign to do with the problem. 2T is quite a sensitive and important setting and is best not to meddle with it too often.
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Come, let's see your older or mine ....
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wah .... tommy ..... RVF ah ?!!!
