fractal

Hi guys, sorry if this sounds stupid, but do "Pole Lights" refer to the Pilot Lights which are turned on when you turn on your lights halfway (Middle switch position)?? Always wanted to know . . .

Ok! Now I know!! Ha ha Just guessing, the barometric sensor is for high altitude riding? Like Genting or Frasiers or something? And should I be replacing that part? Thanks much for the know how . . .

Hi guys, sorry to butt in *but*, I have a 1999 EFI BB - which according to some does not have an O2 sensor. Based on the above, does this mean that in the event that I want to install an aftermarket pipe and PC3 that I have to install an O2 sensor as well (even though it doesn't originally come with it?) Also, how cam I be sure that my bike is / is not that model without the O2 sensor anyways?? Would appreciate anyone's help with clearing up this issue. Btw, the 25 blinks are BACK!! KNNBCCB!!!! Anyone want to go together for a group troubleshooting/ service to negotiate a better price? I'm interested . . . 

Hi guys long time no see. Might as well order since my 25 blinks has been resolved - guess what: wet wiring!! Will the thread starter PM me and I'll send my details back. Any thoughts on ordering more stuff from Jaws besides this? Can we tack on other orders? Cheers, Fractal

Am looking for an Akraprovic full system, product number: 10443 (S-H11S4-T) OR 10443 (S-H11S4-C) Do you have it or are you able to bring it in? How much?

What about those of us with no CO2 sensor? Mine is a 1999 EFI and I think it might not have a CO2 sensor - please correct me if I'm wrong guys. HI everyone, checking in first time in the longest time.

Ok will have to advise on a date later as there's a whole list of things (tools) I need to get, starting with a good pair of vernier calipers (to determine all the nut sizes involved). Looks like I'll be spending the next few weeks preparing tools as well as documentation on possible fixes. To all the fellas facing the 25 blinks, have a look at THIS! Pay attention to what the guy with the REDBird is saying - it seems that there is a problem if there is even one grounding wire not working (disconnect or dis-continuation of circuit) I'm compiling a whole list of possible problems and maybe even a diagnostic / troubleshooting flowchart as well. Will report back later when I've got my tools and lists near to ready . . .

Here i am sitting and thinking how i could definitively rule out one problem from the other and all this while other people are facing the same problem as well. . . . Well guys i do have an idea - since I've just changed my knock sensor, I volunteer to let you swap it into your bike for 20 mins to see if it is really just the knock sensor. If it turns out that doing that cures your bike however, you help me out by allowing me to swap the with your ECU for the same 20 mins to rule out that it's my ECU problem. If it doesn't cure your bike then you're in the same boat as me and no point swapping. I have a 3/4 can of spray contact cleaner I don't mind spending 1 weekend with a few bros in a void deck somewhere (hopefully with less kids kicking the damn ball around) trouble-shooting . . . The first part may have to be done at a mechanic though just to ensure none of us noobies damage any electronics - I suggest Planet, but any other reknown mech is good too. Anyone interested? Let me know . . .

Well, I'm using stock pipes too and i got the 25 blinks - same model as yours and Cagiva's (99 EFI). Came back from the meeting with the mechanic who wanted me to change the damn ECU . . . $1200 bucks a pop with 2 keys provided. Was thinking it would be better for me to try someone else's ECU to be sure that is indeed the problem, or if not to rule it out . . . Somehow i think it's the least likely reason - but having said that, is anyone here who has the 99 EFI model going to do a service anytime soon? Would any kind soul be willing to lend me his ECU for 15 minutes while his bike is being serviced??? Would really like to put this behind me . . .

Oh great, ask a stupid question . . . . Anyways, question for you: 1. SLip on or full system? 2. 4-2-1 OR 4-2-2 3. TP encounters / STARES from ROV? 4. Risk factor with law enforcement? Am thinking about a 4-2-1 full system to get maximum advantage of changing the exhaust system . . . Thanks much bro! Cheers!

Thanks for the info!

Really:clapping:? Ad infinitum (No limit)?

WHHHOoooOOAAaa!!! Who the Dude with the Akra?!!? I also wan leh . . .but scared TP:cheeky: Is it true that it's DAMNED OBVIOUS that 4-2-1 pipes are illegal?? Or is it just well known that AKra for birds is illegal? I want a new exhaust but won't do it just for looks or the sound - there must be some serious HP gains (somewhere in the order of 10% or 13 PS/HP minimum)

Gee! How many hoses are there??!?! I thought it was just the one?? What are the discs that you changed? Brake discs? I changed my clutch hose 2 weeks ago when the thing ruptured near Eu Tong Sen street . . . Got a nice new steel braided, carbon coloured one now . . .

By the way, when I first got the bike the previous owner had taken the thermostat out from the radiator!!! Ah Chong from Planet Motor pointed it out to me so I had to reinstall the damn thing WTF!!

Hey Zest, heat has always been quite intense from my bike unless I'm on the highway - but the needle has rarely risen above middle level (90 degrees horizontal) unless trawling around looking for parking - hope that can be some kind of comparison for you. Also, i really wanted to find out how your Pilot Power CT2's are working out for you? Do any road TWISTIES yet?? My idling needle not steady too . . . worry worry worry . . . Couldn't make it to UM today , will have to try for the next couple of days.

Errmmm . . . . Thanks I er, . . think you misunderstood what I meant - I understand the part about maintenance - i guess what i meant was about the part when it comes to legislation and COE. I thought they only allow you to renew ONCE?!?!? (That means MAX 20 YEARS RIGHT??)

Am getting rid of my slightly older version OGK FF4 (Carbon Kevlar Composite) at a steal for about $110. PM me if interested. In Singapore, all full face helmets will be warm in slow traffic, but fine on the highway. . .

You own a bike older than 20 years? I also want to do that to some collectables (maybe my current BB). Howdeydodat?!?!?!

Yes, that's me. The thing is - how do i know whether it's the engine knocking or the knock sensor at fault? Any idea on the unit cost of a knock sensor??

Hi everyone! Well the story goes a bit like this - bought a 1999 EFI BB couple of years ago and ofcoz didn't know a thing about it when I did (2008 July). Left for an overseas posting several months later and only came back this year (with periodic riding and starting up during my several trips back since). Recently finally got the bike back in shape with a major service including but not limited to the following: 1. Change of wheel bearings (front and back); 2. Injectors cleaned and balanced; 3. front tire changed; 4. Chain and Sprocket changed; 5. Cam Chain Tensionor changed; 6. Radiator flush +Engine Ice; 7. Full OWS treatment + Oil and Oil Filter Change; 8. Fork shims, seals, bushes and one fork tube change; 9. Air filter cleaned. First thing out of the shop when trying to park (I always have problems backing up due to the bike weight) I dropped the bike . . . AChhhCCKK!! Why? Not used to the new "too smooth" rolling resistance. Even worse (or is it better), someone nearby actually rushed over to help. This is complete irony since I previously dropped the bike once before due to the reverse reason (too much rolling resistance - hit a stone) and it's always been at taxi-ing speeds, when the bike feels the heaviest. Luckily no harm done to body, chassis or fairing both times as they were classic, carpark slow-speed, slow-mo falls, which were soaked up entirely by the chassis sliders . . . Now another worry - after all that servicing, my bike FI light suddenly decides to light up and give me ERROR CODE 25!!! NNNNaaaAA BBBBeeeHHH!!! And I was just beginning to enjoy riding again too ( the engine has been really great to be honest). Just don't understand why that would happen now just after servicing - apparently that means faulty knock sensor or faulty wiring. Anyone have any ideas??

Beware of many of the "cheaper brands" as there are some riders out there who have reported that they end up with something worse than what they replaced (the original leaking SHOWAs). Servicing the SHOWAs' is probably the most SANE option - Bikelab OR Teck Thye are the best for this i think ~ $230 to rebuild the pair (PROBLEM SOLVED).

Hi huatster, i think you got me wrong - the front fork installation of the preload tensioner ONLY APPLIES if your front fork DOES NOT HAVE A PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT CAP. Adjustments can be done by yourself (20kg per 1 ring gradation) if you're confident or are willing to experiment (Or have help). Therefore you may not need to install it after all. BUT, if you want to make the most of the new bitubo shocks it's best to adjust it to your typical weight when you ride (plus minus pillion, box etc). It's not a neccessity but very highly recommended if you want to make the most of it. Some people who aren't all that much in pushing the envelope / limit around the corners will simply install the rear shocks, and happily go along their merry way - That's ok too. But if you use the bike for entertainment and not just transport then it's only a bit more out of pocket to see the "full show" if you know what I mean. The response through the corners and bumps with a properly tuned setup is a world of difference from what the stock setting feels like and traction is much improved (front doesn't dive and rear doesn't oscillate / float) So bottom line: 1. "Tuning" - Not necessary (Can DIY) 2. Installation of preload tension adjustment caps for front forks (if your forks don't have them) - Highly recommended You might be able to limit your damage to about 500 if you're ingenious enough . .

Hi guys, heard the term "Nuthouse" before when i posted in someone's BB for sale advert thread . . . But WHY nuthouse??? I love my new (old, but new to me) BB but really hate the number plate in front since i think the downward facing "crescent" of the number plate is ugly. ANY OTHER BB RIDERS HAVE ANY CLEVER IDEAS ABOUT WHAT CAN BE DONE TO THE FRONT NUMBER PLATE???

MEZZO International are the official agents in Geylang (Forgot what street but you can look it up) If you are installing rear shocks you would need to match with preload tensioners (adjustable) in the front too which would set you back by abt $300. 2 options for rear shocks, WITH or WITHOUT compresssion adjustment. With compression adjustment version (which looks like the SHOWA and has a reservoir bottle) would cost about $750 just for the shocks alone. The version without is $600. So total is $900 (600 + 300) $1050 (750 + 300) depending on which option you choose. OR you could get them 2nd hand relatively new from people in this forum . . .