clubhead

I'm currently on AIG 3rd party fire & theft aka 2nd party. $600+ for 04 bike. > 35 years old. Hope this helps....

04 zx10r

My fuel tank is totally rusted out as I haven't been riding my bike for a while and made the mistake of leaving the tank close to empty. Hence, the need for a fuel tank and preferably, a fuel pump as well. If anyone has one to let go, please let me know @ 9661-6981. Thanks a bunch! Simon

What color is your Busa? Have been thinking about switching from my 10R to something more comfortable.... like a Busa

It's ok lah... why don't want to mention Power Commander? It's just about the best thing out here to help you optimise your engine's fueling/ignition. I know Yoshimura EMS also does the same thing but the interface is not open last I know so can't DIY. Those things like ignition advancer may adjust the ignition timing across the entire rpm range, not like Power Commander which can do it every few hundred rpm. So the tuning is a lot more fine. I'm not selling the Power Commander here I'm still considering it for my bike as the stock setup is power enough though I admit the Power Commander will still iron out the rough fueling spots. Anyway, if you're turbo charging, the timing will likely need to be retarded rather than the other way round. It may of course depends on other factors as well though. Reason being a turbo charged combustion chamber is usually hotter than a NA chamber, hence, more chances of detonation if the ignition is advanced. You can of course use higher octane fuel or even race gas to address this as well. It's the same concept if you increase the compression ratio of your engine by using thinner cylinder head gasket. You'll need to retard ignition generally.

The 'timing' actually refers to the ignition timing. So, advancing the timing actually means having your spark plugs ignite the fuel in the combustion chamber earlier than what was supposed to, nothing to do with fuel coming in earlier. Similarly, retarding the timing means having the spark plugs fire later than what is supposed to. The ideal way to adjust this in my opinion is through a Power Commander on a dyno. In this way, you can adjust the ignition timing (advance or retard) depending on the rpm/load/fueling. Generally, if you advance your ignition timing within the tolerance, you will get power. However, if you over advance your ignition timing, you will get detonation/pinging of your engine. This means the fuel self combust by itself before it's supposed to which will lead to bad things like burst piston rings, etc which means muchos $$ for engine overhaul. So only let someone qualified to adjust your ignition timing. For such an advance engine on the ZX10R, it's already operating at close to max efficiency with a high compression ratio. So any adjustment to the ignition timing MUST be done carefully else pinging will easily happen. Hope not to see any brothers out there with blown engines man Have fun tuning

The fat tummy is going to be a problem. You need to get those that comes with elastics at the tummy area which most suits will not have. I know Dainese has a few that has this feature but it's all > $2,000. Ask your friend to slim down. Healthier and saves money

I personally find the Dainese inner suit to be kiinda overpriced at > $200. Just get those Japanese ones from Motoworld, Komine or RS Taichi, at about $120 if my memory serves me right Also Dryfit kind...

This I will agree to. I'm not in favour of people who crash their bike on the track and claim insurance to get it repaired. That's how you and I end up paying more insurance premium... Now if there's race track insurance, that's a totally difference story.

Wow! You sure sound pessimistic/skeptical about the way things are on this island. But I'll have to say it's true to a large degree Everything that's done here are primarily for making money. So the government must already have something cooking already to want to built a race track. ROI, ROI, ROI. That's top on the government's head. As I like to say, the government in most instance are saying "This is my 10 year plan, and we're at the 10th year" Everything is already planned out and when they want to roll it out, they'll start 'pretending' to listen to the public's opinion. IT was such a apt example. But again, that's politics so I shall not venture there. And then again, we've no natural resources to rely on so it's not as if we've a choice. Just gotta be content leaving the planning to those higher paper pusher But I digress. I think this will be the time for SMSA to prove it's worth. Their hands are very tight as well to begin with but I'm sure they're trying their best in this...

I'm deciding bet the Spidi R2 Kangaroo & the Dainese Kirishima. The kangaroo one sure feels a lot lighter and is also more flexible. Getting in/out is noticeably easier. However, I've been told by a few that kangaroo hide though lighter than cow hide is more tear resistant. So a suit that's made in kangaroo will protect more than one with cow hide. But I'm wondering if so, why doesn't Dainese or Alpinestars have them in kangaroo yet? The top of the range in Dainese (Sukhoi & Valentino Repica) and Alpinestars (Racing Replica) are all in cow hide still. Is there any concrete evidence to this? I personally love the looks of the Kirishima but my brain tells me to get a suit that'll protect more rather than looking good...

I may've missed what you're trying to say but I hope you're not posting a 10R image and a cheeky face just to clock posts Please enlighten us...

Hmmm... before you do that, ask yourself whether you can do almost full throttle 1st gear launches on the bike without lifting the front and crashing out. For that matter, even 2nd gear full throttle. If you can't, why bother with the gear ratios? The bike's powerful enough and unless you're going for a drag race, you're not going to feel the diff much. In fact, it makes the bike even more dangerous if you're not careful with your throttle control. Your margin of error is effectively reduced by doing that. Grab 1mm too much throttle over a corner when the street is wet and good luck!

I can't comment on that, neither am I qualified to do so. The job of the damper is pretty straight forward so I think there's minimal differences between the reputable brands. Some offer more level of adjustments than others but I'm sure most of us would not be able to feel the diff between 1-2 clicks. Just get one that's reliable and don't leak all over your bikes.... Good things don't come cheap and cheap things are seldom good. Go by that and you should be safe

Please DO get a damper. I installed an Ohlins before heading down to PG. While I was there, I cracked open the throttle at 3rd gear after turn 4 and after the last turn (front straight) and the front wobbled slightly. Quite balls drop. Can't imagine what it would've been like without a damper. I'm gonna cranked it up to max for my next track day.

I would assume the agent, Evershine, would have them for sale... eBay surprisingly has none so far...

I really can't say for sure. You need to read the manual to find out. But my previous Honda also recommended a valve clearance check/adjustment at 24,000km so it be all around that mileage...

Nothing much really beyond the valve clearance. The rest is pretty basic like checking of brake pads, clutch, change oil, plugs, clean air filter. I'm sure you know of this. Valve clearance is the one thing most people ignore or don't even know about.... And even if they know, their mechanic might just anyhow adjust without having the appropriate specs...

Valve clearance inspection needs to be done every 24,000km. If the clearance is out of factory specs, adjustments need to be done using small metal pieces, otherwise known as shims. If your mechanic does not have the specs for the clearance for the 10R, forget it as he will just be hitting in the dark. It is different for different bikes. I doubt most mechanics will have it for the 10R except the agent, Evershine. You can also buy a workshop manual which will contain all the neccessary specs and adjustment instructions. I got one for my previous bike. Mail ordered it from UK and cost about $80! Another way will be to ask on the US ZX10R forum. Am sure someone posted the specs there or have access to it... If you don't adjust the valve clearance, you will experience gradual power loss over time as the intake/exhaust valve will not open/close on time.. PS :There's no such thing as taper clearance. Probably tappet clearance was what he was referring to

High end helmets like Arai and Shoei are all Schnell Foundation certified. The Schnell sticker within carries more weight than a pathetic PSB sticker. The Schnell Foundation certification process is more stringent than our local PSB folks. In my opinion, Schnell surpasses PSB... If get caught by TP, I'm sure there's a case to argue. Insurance too. At most go court to proof... PSB is just there to safeguard other cha pa lang helmets getting into our markets with only looks good but without hte necessary protection. I for one couldn't give a damn to the PSB sticker as long as the Schnell's one there...

It's all in the mind. Treat the bike with respect and it won't bite. There's no such thing as the bike's for advance rider if you know your limits. Is it harder to corner than a 600? No. Is it harder to ride in a straight line than a 600? No. Of course, it'll be less forgiving if you happen to apply too much gas too early. But in the end, it's about control. Knowing how to control the bike and not let the bike control you...

Out of topic please....

Just wondering what's gonna happen if it rains or the road is damn to/fro PG or Sepang... Just like race pads, best used ONLY for track. Sadly, don't see how that can happen unless you've a van for transport for every track day.

JR is offering their RaceTec during the weekend SBF event at Marina South at $490 (F-120, R-180) and $495 (F-120, R-190). I just got myself a pair of RaceTech K2

Kawa agent, Evershine, is offering a very competitive insurance for Kawa bikes. It's no longer as expensive as you think....