NeoViper

hi... would any of you guys be scrapping your f4i's for any reason? if you are, could you kindly PM me for a little discussion? thanks in advance...

if more modern cars, the ECU tunes in a feedback loop based on Air/Fuel Ratio.... and if you remove the inside of the exhaust, more air can flow = more petrol needed... if the ECU can manage it by changing the pulse duration of your injectors, well and good... if cannot, you even need to change your injectors to a larger size... this is jus a rough idea of it....

I think rectifier hard to see if "going to be faulty" or not... it either works or it doesn't (i think) from the pictures kindly provided by PK Leong, the devices in the rectifier are quite "passive". they're not aware of what they're doing, they jus restrict the current in that way, converting it into DC. if rectifier faulty, u should see about 12+ V across your battery if its still charged (when your engine is on) otherwise, it should be charging up to about 13.8 V if you have a lot of electronics on your bike, you might find that its lower than 13.8V, but at mid rev, you probably can see the charging go back up again. so assuming u have a very well specced rectifier, producing about sufficient charging for your battery, you should see slightly lower voltage across the battery at low RPM due to low revolution and lower charging. voltage increases as your RPM increases, however, at high RPM, voltage should start dropping again due to the high demand from the coils and the injectors. this is my experience with only ONE motorcycle engine. while i believe it to be quite the case for most engine, i cannot be sure that it applies to all (or even if my understanding is correct)

Kaozie and Impex: thanks for the insight from what i know, 4 stroke's ignition timing depends on signals from the camshaft and the crank shaft, so independent of the coil. should be running without lights also, basically a wiring loom consisting of only the ignition, injection, sensors and pump... that shud be it... will look into smaller coil or possibility of no coil... and update here... =) my intentions are really to remove the coil and the big metal chunk that rotates, and maybe (just maybe) grind of that part of the engine.. haha..

Hi guys, pardon me for hijacking this thread, but on a similar note... Assuming i take my motorcycle out for a race, does anyone know any way to spec for how much my battery need to store in order to complete a certain race? is there any means of calculations? this is in consideration of removing the stator coil on my bike, thereby disallowing me to charge the battery while it is running... it should save me quite some weight on the engine. on top of that, in charging the stator coil, i believe the coil actually creates a resistance for the shaft to spin. i'm not sure about this, but i believe it to be so. anyone care to shed some light on this?

hi... you've got pm...

Finally something that sounds right... Lambda sensor is the thing that looks like a spark plug that u need to insert into your exhaust. there isn't different places u can put.. jus that small stretch on your exhaust. it won't cause much restriction cos it won't be totally inserted into the exhaust. instead, u'll have a threaded extension welded onto your exhaust so that the tip sits slightly extended into the exhaust. typically AFR won't do u much good unless u have a piggy back like a Power Commander or a totally custom ECU where u can tune the fuel map (i think this is for EFI bikes only...) which brings me to the variable resistor that allows u to fool the ECU on the go. it looks like something that can alter the environmental temperature reading, which is essentially a variable resistor by itself. however i think it is best to know the resistance ranges from your original sensor first... before putting anything on that will fool ur ECU. wrong values might have adverse effects.. apologies for any wrong info i might have given... but to the best of my knowledge its like this...

Hi.. wondering if anybody here doing DIY uses a lambda sensor (LSU) to detect Air-Fuel Ratio. usually the sensor comes with a unit called the TE-WBlog. or perhaps a Dynojet Wideband Commander if anyone has such a unit, please call me at 98525524 need help urgently, and thanks in advance! Andre

hi guys... was wondering... anyone happen to be parting with your CBR600? scraping or something? would like to buy your ECU.... if anyone getting new ECU or scrapping ur bike, can call me? Andre 98525524 thanks

today saw 2 other RS125s... one at science and the other at e old admin block... they here not? =D

wow... haven't been here a while.. changed nick le... and still dunno anyone here... there's an official club in NUS already? kinda like a CCA? errr need to interview to sign up or not?