Woopa!! Cbr1000rr Riders

[Tashi]

Originally posted by peter7788@Dec 30 2005, 08:18 AM

Season Greetings to all, Hi tashi sorry to hear about your coil,what battery did you use after your first coil change?

Heard of this blade rider in KL who got his burnt coil refurbished at a car alternator recoiling shop so don't throw away the burnt coil maybe this can be done.

I only know of one shop in Singapore which is in Ubi which recoils car alternators I will check it out and post the outcome anybody know of any other coil refurbishing shops in Singapore?

Seasons greetings to you!

 

I've no idea what battery I'm using. I'll check later when I collect my bike. Rectifier also gone.

 

The 1000.rr.net guys call it a stator problem. There was mention that the wires used on the coil are not of proper resistence. I think having it re-coiled with proper wires should do the trick. It's an area worth investigating. We await your inquiries.

 

There are chemists, IT experts, model (no 'S'), pilots, but any electrical engineers here?

 

Previously it was thought that when you push start your bike, it'll wreck the rectifier as well. I guess this is not the case as I never push started my bike.

 

Dirt, that's very creative. I'll keep that in mind. How about Char Broiled Racer?

[Tashi]

Originally posted by eSPy`56@Dec 30 2005, 10:37 AM

point noted.

 

I've learnt something new again.

 

Hey muchacho, we all learn from one another. Just remember to ride to the shop when it happens. The pix in your avatar and siggy look funny, who are they?

[Tashi]

Something useful I found.

 

"Send the old stator to a local starter/alternator/electric motor shop and have them rewind the stator. $30 and you should have better than new, higher output stator that will last a lifetime. They will even insulate the phases and test them with very high voltages (hi-pot, or megger.) Why give it to Honda, when you get back the same potential problem?

 

I bet its poor manufacturing quality for these stators. Some will fail, others won't. I work with AC and DC motors and there is usually an insulation rating on the nameplate to let the repair shop know what grade of wire to rewind with if needed. Lower grades are often used for lower voltage windings.

 

I overload my system with a 250 watts of an electric suit during cold and rainy months and no bad stator for me after 15,000 miles. I had HID for over a year too."

 

 

"When I replaced my stator - I noted the windings were quite unprotected and not encased in a thick resin/plastic like others I've seen. The coil wires are cheap, poorly insulated, and not protected from foreign pieces of metal that might come in contact with it through normal oil flow.

 

Basically, they're poorly designed."

 

"The stator uses 18 gauge wire, class H insulation (high temperature transformer and motor type,) and 59 turns per pole. The idle voltage from your stator is unusually high at 44 volts RMS. So... you could wind half the windings with 16 gauge for cooler operation with more current.

 

The rectifier/regulator module seems bulletproof. As long as its fused, you can give it hell. The stator is faulty engineering and overheats."

 

Support this guy by filling up the form, he may be able to get somewhere.

 

http://www.bluehorizonsinc.com/cbr1kstatorlog.asp

[Tashi]

Faulty stators lead to burnt coils.

 

http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Stator/EngineText2.jpg

[peter7788]

Another view of a CBR1000 coil being cooked

[peter7788]

Originally posted by Tashi@Dec 30 2005, 02:51 PM

Something useful I found.

 

"Send the old stator to a local starter/alternator/electric motor shop and have them rewind the stator. $30 and you should have better than new, higher output stator that will last a lifetime. They will even insulate the phases and test them with very high voltages (hi-pot, or megger.) Why give it to Honda, when you get back the same potential problem?

 

I bet its poor manufacturing quality for these stators. Some will fail, others won't. I work with AC and DC motors and there is usually an insulation rating on the nameplate to let the repair shop know what grade of wire to rewind with if needed. Lower grades are often used for lower voltage windings.

 

I overload my system with a 250 watts of an electric suit during cold and rainy months and no bad stator for me after 15,000 miles. I had HID for over a year too."

 

 

"When I replaced my stator - I noted the windings were quite unprotected and not encased in a thick resin/plastic like others I've seen. The coil wires are cheap, poorly insulated, and not protected from foreign pieces of metal that might come in contact with it through normal oil flow.

 

Basically, they're poorly designed."

 

"The stator uses 18 gauge wire, class H insulation (high temperature transformer and motor type,) and 59 turns per pole. The idle voltage from your stator is unusually high at 44 volts RMS. So... you could wind half the windings with 16 gauge for cooler operation with more current.

 

The rectifier/regulator module seems bulletproof. As long as its fused, you can give it hell. The stator is faulty engineering and overheats."

 

Support this guy by filling up the form, he may be able to get somewhere.

 

http://www.bluehorizonsinc.com/cbr1kstatorlog.asp

Good Artical Tashi it hits the coil problem on the head if Honda'doing nothing about this coil problem the half winding with 16 gauge h/q wire seems the best resolve for us blade owners.

[TooToo7]

Originally posted by Tashi@Dec 30 2005, 02:56 PM

Hey muchacho, we all learn from one another. Just remember to ride to the shop when it happens. The pix in your avatar and siggy look funny, who are they?

hey, thanks for the compliment.

 

the avatar is a screenshot from "Garfield, The Movie"

my signature picture is a compilation of some of the GP riders and their look-alike celebrities and well, for Rossi.. He's simply GOD..

 

[Tashi]

Originally posted by peter7788@Dec 30 2005, 07:08 PM

Good Artical Tashi it hits the coil problem on the head if Honda'doing nothing about this coil problem the half winding with 16 gauge h/q wire seems the best resolve for us blade owners.

I have no idea what a 16 gauge h/q wire is. If you have more info, any references, let us know, where to have the coil re-wound, let us know.

 

I have not collected my bike. My dealer is still trying to claim the parts from BS. BS appears to be delaying the whole process.

[Tashi]

Someone wanted to get D208? Found this article from a Jan 2006 mag.

 

2005 BSB CHAMPS DUNLOP INTRODUCE THE SPORTMAX QUALIFIER, REPLACING ITS BELEAGUERED D208 MODEL. JP WENT TO ALMERIA TO SEE IF RACE SUCCESS IS BLOWING FRESH AIR INTO ITS ROAD TYRES

 

The Dunlop D208 is our least favourite road tyre at SuperBike, by a mile. What with all the people who’ve hit the deck on 208-shodbikes and the number of models seriously compromised by original equipment Dunlop D218s (D208s by a different name), we’re pretty wary of the DumplotsTM to put it mildly.

 

Several quotes leapt out the pre-event presentation and into my notebook; “constant road feedback in all weather conditions”, “more stability and a bigger contact patch”, “increased and more consistent grip” and “shorter warm up time.” Right, so, better feedback has to be good, increased grip is a definite improvement and faster warm up time speaks for itself.

 

I have to admit I was sceptical rolling down Almeria’s pit lane for the first time, but I needn’t have been because the Qualifier feels like a different tyre altogether (rather than just an improved version of the 208). The initial feeling is quite soft but once they’re warm the carcass feels harder than, say, a Pirelli DiabloCorsa (one of the tyres they used for benchmark testing). In a way that’s a good thing because they deform less under load, maintaining shape thanks to Dunlop’s CarcassTensionControlSystem (CTCS)controlling the stress distribution and maintaining a constantcontact patch however the tyre is loaded. That also helps the steering and makes flicking a bike through a chicane, or turning in to a corner hard on the brakes less effort than a softer tyre with this profile might be.

 

There’s no question the Qualifier remains a road tyre which means grip is compromised to some degree for the sake of stability and longevity but that is common across this sector of tyre and you shouldn’t underestimate the amount of grip the Qualifier has. The stiffly- sprung Kawasaki ZX-10R did ask too much and the rear began to run out of grip at maximum lean (right on the very edge of the tyre on the track when the ground temperature was 35 degrees). More softly sprung litre bikes(R1, CBR1000RR) and the full quota of 600 sports bikesI tested didn’t have the same problem.

 

The chief problem with the old D208– sudden and un-predictable loss of grip, especially at the rear – seems to have been quashed with help from Dunlop’s single, jointless belt (JLB) wound between the carcass and tread. The JLB minimizes dynamic growth (when the centre of the tyre expands with speed)which helps maintain the size of the contact patch but also reduces excessive heat build up which afflicted the old D208. Any slide was always predictable with much improved grip and feel, front and rear. On the evidence of this track and road launchI’d say the Qualifier sits alongside Michelin’s PilotPower and Pirelli Diablo in the sport road market.

 

Alongwith other new offerings from Avon and Continental in 2005 we’re long overdue another group tyre test.

[bluesea01]

Hi guys,

 

Just like to check which bike shop would you guys recommend for replacing the Burnt coil of our bike?

 

 

Anybody got a burnt coil to loan me so i can make a few trips to our local starter/alternator/electric motor shop and then try my luck if they can fix this problem.

[rommel]

Goodluck in your search, Blue

 

Its worth the effort.

 

I hope it never happens, But if we make it to the B-B-Q club,

Why should we let Mr. freakin' Honda sell us another lemon coil?

 

I've been a Honda user since the C-50s and normally the bike wears out before the coil does.

 

So far nothings wrong with my coil/bike at more than 10,000 Km but the "coil paranoia" is beginning to set-in.

 

[rommel]

Sadly a re-wound coil does not necessarily mean we are 100% safe.

 

Factors like quality of magnetic wire, AND most especially, WorkMANship comes into play as well.

 

Whether gauge 18 or 16, If the mangnetic coil coating develops a crack or breaks during re-winding, the whole B-B-Q experience will likely to happen, Again.

 

 

The "best" part is,

If is hasn't happen to our bikes yet, how the FISH do we prevent it?

 

Ans:

(without spending money) No way!

Can't fix it, If it ain't broken

[Tashi]

Originally posted by bluesea01@Dec 31 2005, 12:55 AM

Hi guys,

 

Just like to check which bike shop would you guys recommend for replacing the Burnt coil of our bike?

 

 

Anybody got a burnt coil to loan me so i can make a few trips to our local starter/alternator/electric motor shop and then try my luck if they can fix this problem.

Chilly's shop is so far the cheapest.

 

But you can go to FJT to buy a coil, battery & rectifier. When you know it's going to burn, ride it to a shop and let them diagnose.

 

When they tell you the coil is burnt, tell them, "Hey, I happen to have a spare coil in my backpack, here you go."

 

If the battery goes kaput, tell them, "Hey, I happen to carry a spare as well, voilà!"

 

Repeat for rectifier as well.

 

The mech will probably think, "knn, how to earn money like that."

 

The right thing to do is to pay for workmanship.

[Tashi]

Originally posted by ahchye@Dec 30 2005, 03:15 AM

wow!! i hav tis prob 2... when ever i ride or park in the rain... the radiator will cum out smoke (or steam???) from the right side of the fairing... the idling also weakens and the moving off is rather weak.. i do not noe wat happen... ask the mech also nt sure of wat happen.... haiz....

bros... is there any mototiam tat is beri gd at repairing/checking of CBR1000???

By now, all shops are expert. The only way is to inspect the coil physically.

[Tashi]

Originally posted by eSPy`56@Dec 30 2005, 10:21 PM

hey, thanks for the compliment.

 

the avatar is a screenshot from "Garfield, The Movie"

my signature picture is a compilation of some of the GP riders and their look-alike celebrities and well, for Rossi.. He's simply GOD..

 

Sorry, not you muchacho. I was referring to the other muchacho, Dirt's avatar and siggy. Paisey. Hehe.

 

Ey hello! Everyone knows Garfield.

[Tashi]

Originally posted by rommel@Dec 31 2005, 02:44 AM

Sadly a re-wound coil does not necessarily mean we are 100% safe.

 

Factors like quality of magnetic wire, AND most especially, WorkMANship comes into play as well.

 

Whether gauge 18 or 16, If the mangnetic coil coating develops a crack or breaks during re-winding, the whole B-B-Q experience will likely to happen, Again.

 

 

The "best" part is,

If is hasn't happen to our bikes yet, how the FISH do we prevent it?

 

Ans:

(without spending money) No way!

Can't fix it, If it ain't broken

Rommel, you seem to know a bit about wires. Why don't you organise an outing for this weekend and tell us how cavemen first discovered electricity and made wires to harness them, and how the hell they came up with 16 & 18.

[Tashi]

Guess what I found in Wikipedia. I was expecting to see a face of Mr. Honda.

 

Lemon Laws are United States state laws that provide remedies to consumers for automobiles that repeatedly fail to meet certain standards of quality and performance, which are called lemons. Lemon Laws vary by state and may not necessarily cover used or leased vehicles. The rights afforded consumers by Lemon Laws may exceed the warranties expressed in purchase contracts.

[TooToo7]

Originally posted by Tashi@Dec 31 2005, 09:44 AM

Sorry, not you muchacho. I was referring to the other muchacho, Dirt's avatar and siggy. Paisey. Hehe.

 

Ey hello! Everyone knows Garfield.

[DIRT_EFX]

Taishi the avater you looking at is me. Handsome tak?

 

Anyway guys today no outing huh? Backside itchy already

 

Anyway here's my number if there is an outing 90042214. Hope u guys dont put my number at public toilet doors.

[Tashi]

Wow, very.

 

Tomorrow night should have outing.

[Tashi]

What a day I have had. Phew.

 

I've got good news to share. There is a 2nd gen coil. My 2nd coil may not be the 2nd gen one. It was confirmed by Andy that Honda took the coil from another manufacturer after they realise. However, the part # remains the same.

 

My case is still unresolved though. Who will pay for my 3rd coil? BS closed 2 eyes and loaned me the coil 1st so I can ride during this long weekend. Not only that, one Mac user from BS stayed back even though it has pass his work hours to help me air dry my bike after I washed it there.

 

Good spirit from Mah & BS folks. My rectifier did not go kaput. So you may want to think twice about push starting your bike. I cannot verify that push starting will or will not spoil the rectifier.

 

Ken had his rectifier changed when his coil got burnt after he push start. However, it was diagnosed initially that my rectifier was also gone. But this is not the case.

 

Some post I had extracted from the 1000rr.net in the previous page mentioned that the rectifier is "bullet proof". So better get a 2nd opinion if someone tells you that your rectifier is kaput.

 

Also I mentioned before in my post a long time back that the Blade only charges after 3000rpm. One of the BT21 guys told me that. This information is incorrect.

 

It should charge even at idle.

[Tashi]

For those who have not had a coil problem, be well prepared for it.

 

I would advise the coil be bought from BS, and fixed there. Otherwise if your 2nd coil goes kaput, there will be a lot of dispute.

 

BS have to protect their own interest. If the coil is not from them, and if it's not fixed by them, they will not warrant the replacement coil.

 

If you bought your coil from elsewhere, and they cannot verify that it came from them, good luck to you.

 

Also when they bring the bike in from Japan, it was approved as is. if you modify the bike in anyway (pipes, drilling for sliders, ...) they can reject your warranty claim.

 

However, if your bike is modified by HRC, it's a different story. Unfortunately, there's no HRC in S'pore. The market is too small for them to open up a HRC unit.

[Tashi]

Originally posted by bluesea01@Dec 31 2005, 12:55 AM

Hi guys,

 

Just like to check which bike shop would you guys recommend for replacing the Burnt coil of our bike?

 

 

Anybody got a burnt coil to loan me so i can make a few trips to our local starter/alternator/electric motor shop and then try my luck if they can fix this problem.

My coil will be sent to Japan for investigation. Nothing to loan you.

[LastDance]

Originally posted by Tashi@Dec 31 2005, 04:00 PM

For those who have not had a coil problem, be well prepared for it.

 

I would advise the coil be bought from BS, and fixed there. Otherwise if your 2nd coil goes kaput, there will be a lot of dispute.

 

BS have to protect their own interest. If the coil is not from them, and if it's not fixed by them, they will not warrant the replacement coil.

 

If you bought your coil from elsewhere, and they cannot verify that it came from them, good luck to you.

 

Also when they bring the bike in from Japan, it was approved as is. if you modify the bike in anyway (pipes, drilling for sliders, ...) they can reject your warranty claim.

 

However, if your bike is modified by HRC, it's a different story. Unfortunately, there's no HRC in S'pore. The market is too small for them to open up a HRC unit.

Great! I just purchased a walking time bomb...

 

Tashi - You seem to have VIP status with BS

[DIRT_EFX]

Taishi what if my bike not from BS but i buy the coil from them and ask them to fix. Possible?

 

You ask Mah to buy for you or you directly buy from BS then ask Mah to fix for you?

 

 

Sorry bro ask so many questions. If we meet, one teh Gajah for you