BMW Roadster/Rockster Owners

[paithorn]

cgi. so did you get yr Harley afterall? Since you sold yr R....

[seanwu]

Originally posted by TiC@Nov 9 2006, 10:40 AM

Bro Seamwu,

 

We see your bike in your blog previous the trip

I see...

[cgl]

Originally posted by paithorn@Nov 9 2006, 06:46 PM

AT certain RPM, you can shoft gear without clutching in and it will not be as bad as what you imagine...but then again, I personally do not like the feeling too.......

 

You are right abt the dry clutch vs engine oil statement... However if you do not fully clutch in, wouldn't you by itself causing slippages during every gear change? My honest question...

I'm not sure about R1150R, but for R1100R, I just need to pull the clutch a little and it will already disengage enough to allow gear shifts. If I pull the clutch fully, I think that will just cause a bigger separation of distance between plates and hence longer time for disengagement, and greater speed differential between plates. As I've said, I'm not absolutely certain about the mechanism.

[cgl]

Originally posted by paithorn@Nov 9 2006, 06:48 PM

cgi. so did you get yr Harley afterall? Since you sold yr R....

Yes, it is on the ocean somewhere. Arriving roughly 22 Nov. If everything is smooth, should be able to ride again by the end of the month.

 

Now suffering from severe bike-withdrawal symptoms! Point A to B now takes 2 to 3 times more, and travelling is an absolute pain. No doubt we have world class public transport system, but the stresses from the crowd, the waiting and the transfers are killing me!

[paithorn]

Wow, shall we meet up after you got yr bike? LIke to view a brand new hog...

[seanwu]

Yap, I do agreed that we can always meetup even the ride is different. I don't like the idea of "my bike is better then your bike" concept .... after all we are riders

[currypuff]

Originally posted by cgl@Nov 10 2006, 09:21 AM

Now suffering from severe bike-withdrawal symptoms! Point A to B now takes 2 to 3 times more, and travelling is an absolute pain. No doubt we have world class public transport system, but the stresses from the crowd, the waiting and the transfers are killing me!

Hehe. Experienced this for abt 2 weeks before getting yr bike. But kinda got used to it as my previous bike broke down quite a lot. That's why my no.1 criteria for getting a bike now is reliability. No more full fairing, highly-tuned bikes for me. Sry to snatch yr baby away from you so soon, but really need to prep myself for the 3-nation ride next week.

 

As for gear-shifting, yes, I'm using your method as much as possible. But it's quite a pain as I'm not used to it.

 

There are 3 ways of shifting up, I think. The first is the conventional way taught in school; clutch fully in, kick up, release clutch.

 

Second way is what magazine describe as clutchless gear change. Apply pressure to the gear lever, close throttle a little then open up again. This is done in a split second. No touching of the clutch. According to mag, it doesn't harm the gear.

 

Third method is the one described by cql. Me? I'm using a combination of throttle blipping and pulling in the clutch a little.

 

Yes, anyone with info on the best way to change gear pls share with me. I heard it cost $2800 to replace the gear plus labour. How BMW justify this I don't know.

 

One more question. Why is it called a 'dry clutch' ? I thought there is gear oil ? Was told the difference between Jap bikes & BM is that Jap bikes use the same oil for engine & gear, whereas BMW, like cars, use separate oil?

[paithorn]

BMW clutch is "oil-less" that's why dry clutch....do not be confused with GEARBOX oil...for BMW, change once every 2 years...

There is a also a REAR WHEEL DRIVE oil changed every 40000km or 2 years...

 

BMW is not the only brand using dry clutch...Ducati do use too...the advantage is lightweight...and do not share the engine oil thereby much less fouling on the oils...

[seanwu]

I guess I am the most kiasu BMW rider here. Although I don't service at performance but I change all the oil(Engine oil;shaft oil;gear oil) at 10,000km.

Mainly everything is change every 10,000km.

At 10,000km service, I would change: Engine oil, shaft oil, gear oil, 2 x spark plugs(irridium), Engine oil filter, Fuel oil filter, topup brake fluid(if needed), valve clearance and lastly brakepad(if needed)

All this cost me average $350 - $450 plus

[paithorn]

Refer to yr service manuals....all the items are listed...

[TiC]

Originally posted by paithorn@Nov 11 2006, 04:52 PM

Refer to yr service manuals....all the items are listed...

yo bro,

 

 

Are u the guy waving with me and bro last night at GP Esso on the way to Singapore?

 

RGds,

[paithorn]

Originally posted by TiC@Nov 11 2006, 07:49 PM

yo bro,

 

 

Are u the guy waving with me and bro last night at GP Esso on the way to Singapore?

 

RGds,

it wasn't me bro... last nite I was driving and having dinner with a friend in town area.....

[paithorn]

As promised....here the pic of my windscreen....(not my bike)

[paithorn]

WHEN FIRST GEAR WON'T ENGAGE....

The light turns green, you pull in the clutch and step on the shift lever of our brand-new Boxer. It doesn't snick into first, it makes no "clack"...On the dash the big neutral "0" still shows on the digital gear indicator and first gear just won't go in. The "hard cases" just keep standing on the pedal and let the clutch out slowly; the more delicate riders go back to neutral, let the clutch back out and start the process over.

How do you suppose the BMW automobile developers would react if they were told that the new top-of-the-line 7-series BMW sedans would only go into first gear only 50% of the time? Of course, they would say, "Guys, get your tails right back to the drawing boards!".

 

So why did things turn out as they did with the new BMW Boxer? A condition of the contract with Getrag was "No noise when first gear is engaged!" Thus Getrag allowed a "roll-down" time with the clutch pulled in of .8 seconds at operating temperature (note: the time necessary for the free-spinning gears to idle down to a standstill — translator's note). After the introduction of the anti-rattle update, the roll-down time was reduced by the increased internal friction of the o-rings to only .4 seconds. Thus the transmission gears spin down to a standstill very quickly. If the opposing gears have not stopped in just the right position, it is very difficult for the shift dogs to find engagement in their intended slots. Result: the gear will not engage.

 

This BMW characteristic is made yet more noticeable by the use of a perfectly disengaging dry clutch. Unlike Japanese motorcycles using a multi-plate oil bath clutch (which always "drags" a little when disengaged — translator's the BMW uses an automotive dry clutch (made by Sachs), which disengages totally, without any clutch drag at all. Thus the BMW clutch provides optimal declutching.

 

The Japanese transmission, even with the clutch pulled in, is still under continuous rotation from the dragging clutch plates. The result: first gear engages effortlessly. The disadvantage: epecially when it is cold and the oil is thick, first gear engagement is often accompanied by a terrible grinding noise in many motorcycles. And that is exactly what BMW wanted to avoid.

[currypuff]

Originally posted by paithorn@Nov 11 2006, 09:58 PM

As promised....here the pic of my windscreen....(not my bike)

Thanks for the pic, paithorn. Looks big. Have you gone touring with it? How does it feel?

 

Here's another screen from MRA:-

 

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/2136/246/

 

http://www.r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?p=77249#77249

 

Looks cool & reasonably priced at US$140. Donno can order from Hodaka or not?

 

How abt u, seanwu? Care to post a pic of your screen?

Btw, how do I post a pic here?

[currypuff]

Oh, so that's how to post pic...

MRA website below, for those who are interested.

 

http://mra.de/html/gb/gb-products.htm

 

So, according to paithorn, I should clutch in for 1 sec at the traffic light before kicking to 1st gear, am I right? Will try it later.

[cgl]

Originally posted by paithorn@Nov 10 2006, 09:23 AM

Wow, shall we meet up after you got yr bike? LIke to view a brand new hog...

That'll be great! Will be glad to see BMWs again.

 

Nowadays, whenever I see a beemer boxer, I'll be transfixed by the boxer engine. Starting to develop some fetish....

[cgl]

Originally posted by currypuff@Nov 11 2006, 03:02 AM

Hehe. Experienced this for abt 2 weeks before getting yr bike. But kinda got used to it as my previous bike broke down quite a lot. That's why my no.1 criteria for getting a bike now is reliability. No more full fairing, highly-tuned bikes for me. Sry to snatch yr baby away from you so soon, but really need to prep myself for the 3-nation ride next week.

 

As for gear-shifting, yes, I'm using your method as much as possible. But it's quite a pain as I'm not used to it.

 

There are 3 ways of shifting up, I think. The first is the conventional way taught in school; clutch fully in, kick up, release clutch.

 

Second way is what magazine describe as clutchless gear change. Apply pressure to the gear lever, close throttle a little then open up again. This is done in a split second. No touching of the clutch. According to mag, it doesn't harm the gear.

 

Third method is the one described by cql. Me? I'm using a combination of throttle blipping and pulling in the clutch a little.

 

Yes, anyone with info on the best way to change gear pls share with me. I heard it cost $2800 to replace the gear plus labour. How BMW justify this I don't know.

 

One more question. Why is it called a 'dry clutch' ? I thought there is gear oil ? Was told the difference between Jap bikes & BM is that Jap bikes use the same oil for engine & gear, whereas BMW, like cars, use separate oil?

So it's a fair deal then, I get two weeks bikeless and you get two weeks bikeless!

 

Yeah, preserving the transmission is good. Actually, the plates only cost $20, but you need to strip quite a bit of the engine to get to it, and labour charges in PML is very high. You would also be adviced to change the oil seals and other changes so that you don't need to pay for the strip down again.

 

Heard some BMW bikers destroy the plates within 20k. Kris told me that some last till 100k without problems. I guess it's all in the shifting, clutch control and moving off. I just use 2nd or 1st gear even moving up and down multi-storey carparks and avoid half-clutch. After a while, got used to doing "all or nothing" with regards to the clutch. High revs when moving off would also introduce wear to the plates.

[seanwu]

Originally posted by currypuff@Nov 12 2006, 03:06 PM

Thanks for the pic, paithorn. Looks big. Have you gone touring with it? How does it feel?

 

Here's another screen from MRA:-

 

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/2136/246/

 

http://www.r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?p=77249#77249

 

Looks cool & reasonably priced at US$140. Donno can order from Hodaka or not?

 

How abt u, seanwu? Care to post a pic of your screen?

Btw, how do I post a pic here?

Hi Bro,

I guess I really can't find a picture about my screen, but we can always meet out for a view...

[paithorn]

Originally posted by cgl@Nov 10 2006, 09:16 AM

I'm not sure about R1150R, but for R1100R, I just need to pull the clutch a little and it will already disengage enough to allow gear shifts. If I pull the clutch fully, I think that will just cause a bigger separation of distance between plates and hence longer time for disengagement, and greater speed differential between plates. As I've said, I'm not absolutely certain about the mechanism.

Tried this today....hey, damn smooth gear changing!! Am loving it!

[paithorn]

Originally posted by cgl@Nov 13 2006, 10:31 AM

That'll be great! Will be glad to see BMWs again.

 

Nowadays, whenever I see a beemer boxer, I'll be transfixed by the boxer engine. Starting to develop some fetish....

Alrighty....do keep us posted and let's meet somewhere for a drink and chatting when your bike arrives.....most importantly to gawk at yr Hog!!

[coolcat]

Originally posted by paithorn@Nov 13 2006, 06:42 PM

Tried this today....hey, damn smooth gear changing!! Am loving it!

What works for me is quick clutch-in and release when shifting up, and bliping when shifting down.

 

also learnt that gassing it confidently gives a better ride.

 

so where's the HOG?

 

So we Beemers are BOGs?

 

.... and Ducati owners are ....... kekeke

 

Cheers

 

Cat

[currypuff]

Nowadays, whenever I see a beemer boxer, I'll be transfixed by the boxer engine. Starting to develop some fetish....

Pls don't confuse boxer engine with boxer shorts or botox!

 

Actually, the plates only cost $20,

What? Do you mean $200 or $20?

 

Heard some BMW bikers destroy the plates within 20k. Kris told me that some last till 100k without problems. I guess it's all in the shifting, clutch control and moving off. I just use 2nd or 1st gear even moving up and down multi-storey carparks and avoid half-clutch.

20K & 100K; that's a big difference! Must get more tips from riders with the midas touch. Can you release the clutch fully in 1st gear? If the clutch is dry, why do all the gear oil go to?

 

Hi Bro,

I guess I really can't find a picture about my screen, but we can always meet out for a view...

Sure. When cql get his bike & u guys want to dool all over the chrome, call me along.

 

So we Beemers are BOGs?

Suzuki is SOGS(socks), Kawasaki is KOGS(cocks), ...

[cgl]

Originally posted by paithorn@Nov 13 2006, 06:46 PM

Alrighty....do keep us posted and let's meet somewhere for a drink and chatting when your bike arrives.....most importantly to gawk at yr Hog!!

New nursery rhyme:

 

BOG bought HOG

KOG bought BOG

HOG gawks BOG

BOG gawks HOG

 

Time to teach my kids....

[cgl]

Originally posted by currypuff@Nov 15 2006, 01:30 AM

Nowadays, whenever I see a beemer boxer, I'll be transfixed by the boxer engine. Starting to develop some fetish....

Pls don't confuse boxer engine with boxer shorts or botox!

 

Actually, the plates only cost $20,

What? Do you mean $200 or $20?

 

Heard some BMW bikers destroy the plates within 20k. Kris told me that some last till 100k without problems. I guess it's all in the shifting, clutch control and moving off. I just use 2nd or 1st gear even moving up and down multi-storey carparks and avoid half-clutch.

20K & 100K; that's a big difference! Must get more tips from riders with the midas touch. Can you release the clutch fully in 1st gear? If the clutch is dry, why do all the gear oil go to?

 

Hi Bro,

I guess I really can't find a picture about my screen, but we can always meet out for a view...

Sure. When cql get his bike & u guys want to dool all over the chrome, call me along.

 

So we Beemers are BOGs?

Suzuki is SOGS(socks), Kawasaki is KOGS(cocks), ...

Heehee, no fetish for boxer shorts, unless ....*censored*

 

Yep, $20, at least that was what I was told a couple of years back. Total bill for replacing those plates as quoted to me is slightly less than $2k. The rest of the replacements would push the bill to about $2.5k. If this job is done at 80 to 100k, then it is worth it as the oil seals are also nearing the end of their lifespan.

 

Currypuff, how's your prep for the tri-nation ride getting along?