Troubleshoot ur Super4!

[IguaNa]

Hi s4 riders, been searching but cant find a similar topic.

 

juz changed my batt on Sun, yuasa, cost me $85, have changed my coil as well, advised by the shop. after the 1st day of ride did not notice anything. But 2nd day morning after i ride, i hear inconsistant long and short beeps from battery compartment. Went back to the shop but they cant do anything.

 

What is wrong with the beeping?

 

riding s4 spec1

 

thanks in advance

[Ah Pek]

What is wrong with the beeping?

 

Not sure baout Vtec models but spec series are mroe electronic then non- Vtec. My guess is that its a 'warning' or some sort and I feel its likely your rectifier not charging the battery well. Have the mech check your charging rate...for the matter, your battery could be a faulty unit but unlikely. I'm guess so because, in cases like that and things electronic..that beeping some is likely from a overload protecting circuit which Vtec might have.

 

In short if I'm right, your rectifier might go kaput soon and can damage your new battery with uncontrollable high alternating current coming from your alternator...careful.

[Ah Pek]

juz some question to ask.. super 4 vect 1 fr plate 3.9k izzit worth it??? OTR abt 4.8k but coe end at 2009 oct..

 

Not sure how to answer you but when I want to buy a second hand bike..number plate and year to me is not at all important. What important is the condition of the might and how where it is maintain..especially the engine. It could be the owner 2nd to 4th bike and hardly used and well kept well from open enivronment hazard. This may be as good even if its 9 years old compare to one that is two years old and harshly used all the time.

 

If you feel the price is right with reference from what I mentioned above..its worth the but then. Take into consideration to have the bike tested..and bring along someone experience with S4.

[IguaNa]

thanks ah pek. on the day when changing batt, almost wana change rectifier as well but did not as the mechanic did a volt check n it was charging to high 13.5v and near 14. so he said rectifier is ok, didnt change.

 

on the 2nd visit when i ask the mechanic bout the beep sound, he did a volt check as well, nothing unusual as batt was also charging. he did the "normal stuffs" i guess. trottling to bout 6rpm, very loud n engine was quite hot til the fan was activate as well.

 

ride yesterday did not notice the beep. but ride 2day, hear the beep sound again. the beep sound is after riding for some time, at a traffic light will hear a few beeps n off. at neutral, i trottle abit, and the beep will start again.

tried engine off and the beep stop as well.

 

is best advice to change rectifier??

in order to have all 3 new devices working together? coil batt n rect

[Ah Pek]

is best advice to change rectifier??

in order to have all 3 new devices working together? coil batt n rect

 

I think the most important thing is to find out what the "beeping" means. If its indicated in your manual book..that certainly helps. Like compuetr, the nimber and interval or frequeny rate of beeps tells you what is faulty...from motherboard, ram to bad regulator output and video card improper sitting. Just that I'm guessing Vtec series may have such function...what we call "sell check" routine...just like those fancy routine you see from Vtec meter.

 

About your coil change..not sure why the mototiam recommended the changed..nice to know and is it origina parts. When we talk about, the gauge thickness of the fine winding and number of roounds matter..hope the replace is not a third party product other than Honda S4 for your model. If you can tell me what hesiad about having to change your coil..that helps me to understand better.

 

As for why battery and rectifier always have to be change together..its bekuz the rectifier does not regulate the right output anymore...thus high current actually damage your battery. In your case, I'm just thinking that your rectifier may be on the verge of failing..still work but "i_Cee" liao and the beep comes when the rectifier gets hotter in operation.

 

Not sure if you want to invest in a new rectifier just to find out..its about $85 to $95 dollars these days. Make sure you get the one that has "heat sink" (rows of fin like looking ridges for cooling) and in metallic gun dark grey in colour and last but not least.."Japan" is endorse on the unit. If you need help and don't want to risk your $$s..let me know..I have a spare for you to trial on.

[IguaNa]

base on my prob, it started with a no power battery. "bo latt". start my bike one night n it cant ignite. battery like no power like that, follow by lots of rattling sound when countinue pressing ignition. time n millege was also reset. tried to push start, manage to start bike. so went shop to check what prob next day.

 

shop said change batt. next use voltmeter n test after changing original yuasa YTX9-BS 12v telling me its made in jpn as well. the voltmeter show 12+v went to low 13 volt. mechanic say its either your rectifier or coil prob because it is suppose to go up to high 13+v n not restrict to 12+ only.

 

1st, mech open a new rectifier n try, the volt still remain low, did not go higher. he say comfirm its coil n reccomend change coil, so he got a new coil, made in japan original honda. after changing coil[with EO changed too] he test volt again. this time the volt went up by alot, can see the difference from the previous test.

[Ah Pek]

base on my prob, it started with a no power battery. "bo latt". start my bike one night n it cant ignite. battery like no power like that, follow by lots of rattling sound when countinue pressing ignition. time n millege was also reset. tried to push start, manage to start bike. so went shop to check what prob next day.

 

shop said change batt. next use voltmeter n test after changing original yuasa YTX9-BS 12v telling me its made in jpn as well. the voltmeter show 12+v went to low 13 volt. mechanic say its either your rectifier or coil prob because it is suppose to go up to high 13+v n not restrict to 12+ only.

 

1st, mech open a new rectifier n try, the volt still remain low, did not go higher. he say comfirm its coil n reccomend change coil, so he got a new coil, made in japan original honda. after changing coil[with EO changed too] he test volt again. this time the volt went up by alot, can see the difference from the previous test.

 

Would not rule out the posibility of multiple fault here..meaning coil and rectifier..besdie the battery is already Kaput (likely due to no charging). As of your current status...the rectifier is the only item not changed. The mech test using a rectifier b4 confirming coil does not justified tah your rectifier is actually ok. Its only when things get hot, electronic component tends to multfunction and what I'm suspecting here is that your rectifier is not working up to specification when its hot and Vtec self check design may have detected that...thus giving the beeping sound. Is there anything in your Vtec manual documented with regards to "If there's beeping.." thingy?

 

Anyway...looks like having a proper working rectifier is the only way to go to confirm if the beeping would go away. If so...that mean that the beeping is indicating that your rectifier is not working up to spec after it reaches certain operating temperature.

 

Do let me know the result of the outcome.

[IguaNa]

yes forgot to mention that you've been talking bout the manual, but its second hand, don't have any manual with me. would also like to know more bout the beeping indication example long beep stand for...?

 

and also bout the temp that you mention. yes i sorta agree with you. its not always there is the beep n most prob its the vtec inside that is doin the self check. the beep does not always come. its after riding for some dist/time. i think it does matter with the temp of some part, probably the rectifier that you mention that gona "kee chia" soon. unable to perform properly. but when voltmeter test, it does show the charging n volt goin up n up when trottle.

 

shall get a new rectifier n change it DIY very soon. difference of DIY n shop is $15. the price i get is bout $50, i change my sp rectifier last time b4.

[Ah Pek]

shall get a new rectifier n change it DIY very soon. difference of DIY n shop is $15. the price i get is bout $50, i change my sp rectifier last time b4.

 

Yes..DIY rectifier for S4 is a "Ka_Chang_Puteh" thingy and its great that you can save your $15.00 for a rainy day. Do keep us posted for the benefit of other owner like you..just in case they get into the same situation. I too like to know what's that beeping is all about. My only beeping is my self installed beeper for signal lights....LOL!

[xyoshiki]

Just notice when i pressed my rear brake, the brake light not working. But fine for my front brake.

 

Any idea what to change to make the rear brake lights up when pressed?

 

many thanks in advance.

[Ah Pek]

pressed my rear brake, the brake light not working. But fine for my front brake.

 

Assuming that your tail bulb is ok..there is a foot switch that is link to your brake pedal. You acn adjust the plastic lock nut. If still can't, then the switch is faulty.

[MonoWorld]

went to unique motorshop yday to ask them abt fluctuating RPM and vibrating handlebar. one mech asked me to wash carb and get it tuned again coz he said the carb diaphragm is cracked and the tuning is gone. well, i washed carb last saturday by combine and had to wash it again yday.

 

after the tuning and washing carb, change the spark plugs, spark plug cables and caps (previous owner using spitfire cables and its condition is deteriorating), the fluctuating rpm is gone and vibration on the handlebar is lessened too, my palm is not so numb after ride home from office.

 

BUT the engine feels so much hotter now. is it the air/fuel ratio is too lean? will it damage rectifier and coils? haiyoh i m so worried now.. it's a VTEC1

[Ah Pek]

ask them abt fluctuating RPM and vibrating handlebar. one mech asked me to wash carb and get it tuned again coz he said the carb diaphragm is cracked and the tuning is gone.

 

But was he right about the carb diaphram being damaged?..you did not mentioned this part when you had your rewash and tunning. About the vibration thing...PLEASE try this..go to a mototiam (go back to combine) and asked them to tighten (using compress torque wrenches)all your engine mounting bolts. This is one major cause of vibration..believe me. Let us know what's the outcome.

 

Engine hotis ok lah..as long as the overheating warining light is not up. How fast do you on the average ride your bike?

[jhawk2820]

Can any help to clear my doubt.

 

Is it normal for rear braking system temporary loss its braking power after change new brake pad and plate.

 

does its need a run in?

[xyoshiki]

Assuming that your tail bulb is ok..there is a foot switch that is link to your brake pedal. You acn adjust the plastic lock nut. If still can't, then the switch is faulty.

 

Sorry ya, newbie here......don't quite understand leh. Where can I locate the foot switch?

[MonoWorld]

Can any help to clear my doubt.

 

Is it normal for rear braking system temporary loss its braking power after change new brake pad and plate.

 

does its need a run in?

 

it takes times for the brake to get back to its braking power. dun worry.

[MonoWorld]

 

Engine hotis ok lah..as long as the overheating warining light is not up. How fast do you on the average ride your bike?

 

On average i ride ard 90-100km/h on expressway. Luckily the temp warning did not light up but it feels so hot everytime i accelerate. I didn't have this problem with the previous tuning.

 

Btw I just fill up the tank, it's 19KM/L where it used to be 22KM/L with the previous tuning. I'll monitor the FC anyway.

[Ah Pek]

temporary loss its braking power after change new brake pad and plate. does its need a run in?

 

Its not taht it has lost its braking...just need to sit in or like you said.."run in". Next time...tell the mechanic to do some rough sending before cmplete installation. That helps.

[Ah Pek]

it's 19KM/L where it used to be 22KM/L with the previous tuning.

Its not accurate or 'recommended' to excess how 'normal' a bike performance etc..by using FC as a benchmark. Road condition and traffic situation (just an examples) are ever changing and never the same every day. Sometime you stop more, sometime less..you know what I mean.

 

But I do know what you meant by now and different as the last time you rode it. I'm only more concern about that vibration problem you are experiencing now. Btw...did you manage to get Combine to tighten the engine mounting bolts (shouldn't charge just to do that as its part of their job to know)?

[MonoWorld]

Its not accurate or 'recommended' to excess how 'normal' a bike performance etc..by using FC as a benchmark. Road condition and traffic situation (just an examples) are ever changing and never the same every day. Sometime you stop more, sometime less..you know what I mean.

 

But I do know what you meant by now and different as the last time you rode it. I'm only more concern about that vibration problem you are experiencing now. Btw...did you manage to get Combine to tighten the engine mounting bolts (shouldn't charge just to do that as its part of their job to know)?

went to unique on sat afternoon to ask abt the condition of the carb and abt the vibrating handlebar. the mech said "engine turned on, will like tat one!". Seriously I had no idea abt the engine mounting until you posted here.

[jhawk2820]

it takes times for the brake to get back to its braking power. dun worry.

 

Its not taht it has lost its braking...just need to sit in or like you said.."run in". Next time...tell the mechanic to do some rough sending before cmplete installation. That helps.

 

 

thanks for clearing my doubt. and luckily i didn't change all brakes at 1 go.

[Ah Pek]

mech said "engine turned on, will like tat one!".

 

Sound like a mech who is pretty hopless. Remember...after you have this problem is solve sometime...go back to him and tell him "I tot U said like that one?"..and if he asked you how come it does not vibrate anymore..tell him "its like that one what?"

[IguaNa]

hi ah pek, check with u on the part wher the mech ask me to change coil. isit cheating me or its supposed to be changed anyway?

 

i went back to the shop telling him i wana DIY n buy a new rectifier, he sorta ask me to save the money, as i told him earlier that i have a spare rectifier from my previous sp. i not sure if its still working, have not tried. coz recently my rides, did not notice the beeping anymore. not sure what goin on.

[MonoWorld]

Sound like a mech who is pretty hopless. Remember...after you have this problem is solve sometime...go back to him and tell him "I tot U said like that one?"..and if he asked you how come it does not vibrate anymore..tell him "its like that one what?"

hehe not nice to do this la ah pek...

[Ah Pek]

hehe not nice to do this la ah pek...

 

Aiyah...by me a packet of Kor_Pee_Tiam Kor_Pee_Orh and we go together there lah...let me do the 'bad' talking lor. Some mechanic just like to talk their way out thinking you that gong_tai_tai type. At least..next time you go back there..he has some respect for you and don't "like that one" with you mah..heeee....x3!

 

mech ask me to change coil. isit cheating me or its supposed to be changed anyway?

 

I'm not sure what coil exactly as there are quite a few coil on the bike..spark plug step up coil, stator coil (alernator) and strater coil.

 

Seem there is no sound..I presume you think its okay..unless your beeper koyat!.....LOL! No lah...its okay...wait and see how lor. If the beeping comes back..use your spare rectifier and DIY to zero in on the problem.