Battery related

[aixin]

As discussed in the other thread. May be good for future reference.

 

http://www.furukawadenchi.co.jp/english/tra_motor.htm

FTX12-BS 10 (Ah) 150 87 130 3.7 0.60 1

 

http://shop.wemoto.com/pictures.dyn?u=5833994qqq25617

Battery Yuasa

 

[loyjwe]

anybody can help? i just changed batt and also rectifier. grounding done by previous owner. so how come my voltmeter still show lower idling voltage after riding for about 15mins at ard 12.4~12.6 whereas when i just start my bike it will be 13.4~13.6? i examine it be my fan is on.

[IvikaRazI]

  loyjwe said:

anybody can help? i just changed batt and also rectifier. grounding done by previous owner. so how come my voltmeter still show lower idling voltage after riding for about 15mins at ard 12.4~12.6 whereas when i just start my bike it will be 13.4~13.6? i examine it be my fan is on.

 

Then that is the issue already. When you are not moving...1 less component using up the voltage. Do note that fan also use current. That maybe the reason y it drop. Like previous thread, the most accurate measurement is to be taken from the battery.

[loyjwe]

but even b4 the fan on my idling already drop den normal already ley

[IvikaRazI]

Like what limbat have said. You need to do your own troubleshooting to narrow down the problem.

 

Have you tried to take the reading from the battery itself? If my guess is correct, you have not done so right? Please do it to have peace of mind. It won't affect me as I am not the one riding the bike.

 

No use grumbling here and still end up with the same problem/issue. No one can help you unless you help yourself. So sorry to say that.

[joajas]

VRLA maintenance-free battery (e.g. YTX-9BS) requires 14v-14.8v to charge.

 

S4's rectifier outputs 13+v when cruising at 90km. Essentially the battery is not getting enough voltage to get charged to full.

 

 

 

Anyone has any solution to this??

[IvikaRazI]

  joajas said:

VRLA maintenance-free battery (e.g. YTX-9BS) requires 14v-14.8v to charge.

 

S4's rectifier outputs 13+v when cruising at 90km. Essentially the battery is not getting enough voltage to get charged to full.

 

 

 

Anyone has any solution to this??

 

Hmmmm...how about changing to a bigger alternator?

[joajas]

  IvikaRazI said:

Hmmmm...how about changing to a bigger alternator?

 

All equipments are powered by rectified voltage from the rectifier. A bigger alternator might not be the solution to this issue, It could even cause the rectifier to get fried.

 

I am thinking of finding an alternative rectifier that is able to output the voltage that can properly charge our batteries.

 

But I couldn't find any info on the net.

 

Let's hope that someone who had done this before can advise me.

[aixin]

Page 15-19

Motorcycle Batteries 2007-2008

File Format: PDF/Adobe Acrobat

Maintenance Free batteries,. but the most important ..... C) Sealed VRLA. Check the open circuit voltage using a voltmeter. A newly activated battery should ...

http://www.websyd.dk/Tmpparts/s-d2008.pdf - Similar pages

 

According to recommendation, the battery for CB400 2001 & above should be YTZ10S instead of YTX-9BS.

 

  Quote

Originally Posted by joajas View Post

VRLA maintenance-free battery (e.g. YTX-9BS) requires 14v-14.8v to charge.

 

S4's rectifier outputs 13+v when cruising at 90km. Essentially the battery is not getting enough voltage to get charged to full.

 

Anyone has any solution to this??

[joajas]

  aixin said:

Page 15-19

Motorcycle Batteries 2007-2008

File Format: PDF/Adobe Acrobat

Maintenance Free batteries,. but the most important ..... C) Sealed VRLA. Check the open circuit voltage using a voltmeter. A newly activated battery should ...

http://www.websyd.dk/Tmpparts/s-d2008.pdf - Similar pages

 

According to recommendation, the battery for CB400 2001 & above should be YTZ10S instead of YTX-9BS.

 

According to Yuasa Tech Manual, all their VRLA (YT and YI series) require a regulated charging voltage of 14v-14.8v.

 

http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/TechMan.pdf

[aixin]

  joajas said:

According to Yuasa Tech Manual, all their VRLA (YT and YI series) require a regulated charging voltage of 14v-14.8v.

 

http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/TechMan.pdf

 

Thanks:thumb:

Page 26 para 3 stated it.

 

In that case Furukawa battery may be the good choice or any other recommendation.

So far, any SF complained about power loss or may be not noticeable at all.

[xXxRatedxXx]

  loyjwe said:

but even b4 the fan on my idling already drop den normal already ley

 

Dude im gg to LIMBAT's place tmr, want to come?

[loyjwe]

tml cant make it. my time is after his closing hr 1. my batt also just changed ley. haha

[soma]

Hi, need some advice about how to disconnect the battery, cos not riding the bike for 1.5 months. Thanks in advance

[aixin]

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?action=printpage;topic=12465.0

Just to make it simple, I'll use the three-phase rectifier from above as an example. Three of the lugs will be labeled with a "~" which denotes AC power. The output of your alternator goes directly to these three lugs. The "-" lug goes to the "-" terminal of your battery and the "+" goes to the positive terminal. Since the regulator varies the output directly from the alternator, this is all you need to do with the rectifier.

 

I've installed this system in my '79 CB650 and it works great. The charge voltage is right at 13.3v, and it'll charge from 1500rpm and up. You'll never have to worry about burning your headlight bulbs or overcharging your battery because the electronic regulator keeps the voltage perfectly constant. Also, since it charges at 13.3v instead of 14.4v, you don't have to worry about boiling your battery in the summer time. Plus, the two rectifiers that I used are $0.44 apiece and the regulator was only $13. That puts my R/R budget to $13.88. Much better than the $100 I would've spent on the 'net or the $250 from Honda!!

[joajas]

  aixin said:

Thanks:thumb:

Page 26 para 3 stated it.

 

In that case Furukawa battery may be the good choice or any other recommendation.

So far, any SF complained about power loss or may be not noticeable at all.

 

no power loss for me. I am just worried that the battery might die a premature death.

 

Anyway I bought the charger from limbat to topup charge from time to time.

 

I think most VRLA batteries will require the same charging voltage as the yuasa one because of the technology used.

 

One more thing. I checked and translated the charging system section in the russian service manual for my Ver S. It is stated that the charging voltage should be between 14v to 16v at 5000rpm with headlight on high beam.

 

Most likely it is due to the old wire harness that I am not getting that kind of readout from my multimeter.

 

I have also rerouted the ERP unit from "direct to battery" to ignition fuse. This helps to keep the discharging rate to minimum when bike is not running.

 

A 30amp wire bought from autobacs was added to connect the rectifier's ground wire directly to the battery negative, instead of the rectifier's ground going through the bike's frame ground. This has recovered about 0.2v to 0.3v to the charging voltage. I am seeing about 13.8v at 90km/h instead of the previous 13.5v.

 

I also applied heat sink grease to the back of the rectifier before mounting it back to the bike frame. Hopefully this helps to transfer heat more efficiently from the rectifier to the bike frame, and thus prolong the life of the rectifier.

 

In future I am thinking of rerouting the rectifier's +12vdc directly to the battery's positive via a 30amp fuse instead of going through the bike's wire harness.

 

Anyone else with other mods to improve the electrical system?

[FrdAuZ]

any of u went to charge ur battery after lets say few mths or a year.. or u just use untill weak.. cos if charge frm time to time..ur battery will lasts longer

[steel_headz]

I've just fix my battery YTZ10S at $200 at HKL last mth....

 

But unfortunately... Unique r selling at $150 only....

[joajas]

  Firdaus said:

any of u went to charge ur battery after lets say few mths or a year.. or u just use untill weak.. cos if charge frm time to time..ur battery will lasts longer

 

I have voltmeter installed to monitor the electrical condition. As my trips are mostly short trips and I have alarm installed, my battery tend to discharge more than I can charge. So the only solution is to bring home the battery to charge when the voltages are low.

[aixin]

  joajas said:

no power loss for me. I am just worried that the battery might die a premature death.

 

Anyway I bought the charger from limbat to topup charge from time to time.

 

I think most VRLA batteries will require the same charging voltage as the yuasa one because of the technology used.

 

One more thing. I checked and translated the charging system section in the russian service manual for my Ver S. It is stated that the charging voltage should be between 14v to 16v at 5000rpm with headlight on high beam.

 

Most likely it is due to the old wire harness that I am not getting that kind of readout from my multimeter.

 

I have also rerouted the ERP unit from "direct to battery" to ignition fuse. This helps to keep the discharging rate to minimum when bike is not running.

 

A 30amp wire bought from autobacs was added to connect the rectifier's ground wire directly to the battery negative, instead of the rectifier's ground going through the bike's frame ground. This has recovered about 0.2v to 0.3v to the charging voltage. I am seeing about 13.8v at 90km/h instead of the previous 13.5v.

 

I also applied heat sink grease to the back of the rectifier before mounting it back to the bike frame. Hopefully this helps to transfer heat more efficiently from the rectifier to the bike frame, and thus prolong the life of the rectifier.

 

In future I am thinking of rerouting the rectifier's +12vdc directly to the battery's positive via a 30amp fuse instead of going through the bike's wire harness.

 

Anyone else with other mods to improve the electrical system?

 

This information on improving the electrical system is good.

Regarding the premature death of battery, any idea the duration. If it is not that short, possibly changing battery will save more trouble going through alternative.

 

From thread on "Grounding" - does it help to improve electrical system, battery lifespan. Grounding seemed to be a remedial for "old wire" in view of mature bike. According to the thread, it does help in power and smoothness as well as brighter headlight

[joajas]

  aixin said:

This information on improving the electrical system is good.

Regarding the premature death of battery, any idea the duration. If it is not that short, possibly changing battery will save more trouble going through alternative.

 

From thread on "Grounding" - does it help to improve electrical system, battery lifespan. Grounding seemed to be a remedial for "old wire" in view of mature bike. According to the thread, it does help in power and smoothness as well as brighter headlight

 

I was hoping that the batteries can last more than 3 years.

 

I think before going into grounding, it is best to access the condition of the wire harness. If not you will be providing a good and clean path for a direct short circuit.

 

After which, grounding does help in the overall electrical system. I think the main objective is to provide a good ground path from the electrical components back to the battery.

 

Grounding does not help in the case where the live wire is at fault instead of the ground wire, therefore the importance of checking the whole wire harness to eliminate bad connections.

 

The most basic upgrade of the charging system is the output wire and the ground wire from the rectifier. This should optimize the charging circuitry.

 

Other than that, I think there is nothing else we can do, unless there are better stator coil and rectifier that can be used on S4.

[loyjwe]

  aixin said:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?action=printpage;topic=12465.0

Just to make it simple, I'll use the three-phase rectifier from above as an example. Three of the lugs will be labeled with a "~" which denotes AC power. The output of your alternator goes directly to these three lugs. The "-" lug goes to the "-" terminal of your battery and the "+" goes to the positive terminal. Since the regulator varies the output directly from the alternator, this is all you need to do with the rectifier.

 

I've installed this system in my '79 CB650 and it works great. The charge voltage is right at 13.3v, and it'll charge from 1500rpm and up. You'll never have to worry about burning your headlight bulbs or overcharging your battery because the electronic regulator keeps the voltage perfectly constant. Also, since it charges at 13.3v instead of 14.4v, you don't have to worry about boiling your battery in the summer time. Plus, the two rectifiers that I used are $0.44 apiece and the regulator was only $13. That puts my R/R budget to $13.88. Much better than the $100 I would've spent on the 'net or the $250 from Honda!!

 

u mean adding a regulator onto bike instead of rectifier onli?? add on?

 

  steel_headz said:

I've just fix my battery YTZ10S at $200 at HKL last mth....

 

But unfortunately... Unique r selling at $150 only....

 

 

planet also 150 coz i just changed too same model.

[aixin]

  Quote

I was hoping that the batteries can last more than 3 years.

 

A battery can last between 1-2 years is good enough, above 2 years is a bonus that i would think. I think cheaper battery can be bought at LAB and shouldn't be a problem providing this lifespan.

[joajas]

  loyjwe said:

u mean adding a regulator onto bike instead of rectifier onli?? add on?

 

 

 

 

planet also 150 coz i just changed too same model.

 

 

 

For S4, regulator and rectifier comes in one unit, the one that we commonly know as the rectifier. It is not necessary to add another regulator.

 

  aixin said:

A battery can last between 1-2 years is good enough, above 2 years is a bonus that i would think. I think cheaper battery can be bought at LAB and shouldn't be a problem providing this lifespan.

 

It is not uncommon to see VRLA MF batteries last for 3 years with proper maintenance. I was hoping to achieve that. Only time can prove whether it is possible.

[loyjwe]

ok thanks upzzz