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Posted
Hi Nemesis, you must be one of the pioneer sifu that Katana is referring to. So far after the 2nd towing back to the agent, the problem is rectified (I hope). Because of these 2 boo boo, I just do not have the confidence in this GTS of mine. It is frustrating that this should happened to a brand new bike which was hardly a month on the road !!!

 

lol yea i was talkin abt nemesis. btw nemesis ytd bo jio! lol the only night i free ytd lol

 

btw ya i install voltmeter liao. Apparently i travel at 13.9-14V i think battery got prob liao. that's why the signal keep on coming up

Low Life Helmet Stealers shld just DIE

05-06 - FU*7*7A NSR SP (Proj Bee)

06-07 - FY*3*3L Wave S (Proj Bass)

07-07 - FN3**3M RVF 400 (Proj Black)

08-08 - FU**9*U KAWA ZX (Squeaky)

08-09 FBB***9D Pulsar DTS-i (Black)

10- FBC**98S SYM GTS

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Posted

anyone knows the price of the belt for Sym 400?

 

Belt changes @ every 15K or 12K.

 

With Battery Light onz, doing the following step ( from cheapest to the most exp)

 

1) Check battery voltage ( min reading 11~12V)

2) Check rectifier (If Volt meter reading go up to 14.4 and above... good luck)

3) magneto coil ( super expensive to replace )

 

 

 

 

 

Step to check ur magneto coil.

1)Start ur engine, off all light.

2 )wait till the temp meter go up to 2 bar.

3)look at the RPM it shld be stable by now.

4) no ur head light

5) if RPM SHOULD NOT shoot up, abit is ok but not too much.

6) after shooting up, is normal that rpm will go back to the reading before you on the headlight.

If RPM shoot up too high... then there might be problem with ur magento coil.

Posted
lol yea i was talkin abt nemesis. btw nemesis ytd bo jio! lol the only night i free ytd lol

 

btw ya i install voltmeter liao. Apparently i travel at 13.9-14V i think battery got prob liao. that's why the signal keep on coming up

can we have some pixs on where the volt meter is mounted Buy the analog or digital ?.

ARCHIVED: TX500/CB550F/CB750K4/CB750F2/ZR750/CB750F/GSR600/ZG1000/ST1100/GPZ400/

CB1/Silverwing/GL1500SE/GL1500SEW/GL1800A1/GL1800A2/GL1800A4/FJR1300ABS/TMax

ACTIVE: GL1800A12 & SYM200

 

 

Assumption is the mother of all fu@kup

Posted

Greetings all.

 

Used to ride a Vespa but that was eons ago. Am hoping to get back on two wheels again and just put my money down for a Sym Joyride 200i Evo. Paid $7900. Mah Pte Ltd. A couple of freebies thrown in -- box, helmet. Taking delivery next week. Any advice for someone who has not ridden for more than 20 years?

Posted
Greetings all.

 

Used to ride a Vespa but that was eons ago. Am hoping to get back on two wheels again and just put my money down for a Sym Joyride 200i Evo. Paid $7900. Mah Pte Ltd. A couple of freebies thrown in -- box, helmet. Taking delivery next week. Any advice for someone who has not ridden for more than 20 years?

 

Yes! Ride S L O W L Y :) Welcome to the SYM family.

ARCHIVED: TX500/CB550F/CB750K4/CB750F2/ZR750/CB750F/GSR600/ZG1000/ST1100/GPZ400/

CB1/Silverwing/GL1500SE/GL1500SEW/GL1800A1/GL1800A2/GL1800A4/FJR1300ABS/TMax

ACTIVE: GL1800A12 & SYM200

 

 

Assumption is the mother of all fu@kup

Posted
Greetings all.

 

Used to ride a Vespa but that was eons ago. Am hoping to get back on two wheels again and just put my money down for a Sym Joyride 200i Evo. Paid $7900. Mah Pte Ltd. A couple of freebies thrown in -- box, helmet. Taking delivery next week. Any advice for someone who has not ridden for more than 20 years?

 

Ah, I am sure ginger old still gd. Anyway, ride safe/slowly as fjr was saying and check as per new, rubber need to wear off wax, brake pad too. Run in as per normal and oil change.

http://images.quizesilver.multiply.com/image/8/photos/19/500x500/1/Picture3.jpg?et=pp72A3vHiyWV%2B1gmEDuh4g&nmid=137248738
Posted

Bros, need help here!

 

1) how much PSI should I pump for Tyres? Is it the same method of pumping as usual. If that's te way, I can't seemed to find any air cap. Pls advise

5 Oct 2005 - Jun 2007(SP) FS6059X

18 Jun 2007 - 26 Nov 2007 -> CBR400, L model problematic FJ532*S

 

26 Nov 2007 - 12 Nov 2011 -> TA200, FV2X2G

12 Nov 2011 - 12 Nov 2012 -> SYM GTS200, FZ99*0D

 

29 Nov 2012 - 13 July 2015 -> KIA Rio HB 1.4M, SFY*

13 Jul 2015 - 28 Apr 2018 -> Kia Cerato V2 SKT*

 

28 Apr 2018 till current -> Hyundai Elentra S_trim SLZ*

Posted

Thanks guys. Don't plan to ride fast.... anyway was reading the manual.... running in... 1st 1000 km.... not more than 60 km/hr! Rather slow, eh? Does anybody actually keep to this speed during the running in period?

Posted
Bros, need help here!

 

1) how much PSI should I pump for Tyres? Is it the same method of pumping as usual. If that's te way, I can't seemed to find any air cap. Pls advise

 

Check the manual? Different tyres would be slightly different, I think.

Posted
Greetings all.

 

Used to ride a Vespa but that was eons ago. Am hoping to get back on two wheels again and just put my money down for a Sym Joyride 200i Evo. Paid $7900. Mah Pte Ltd. A couple of freebies thrown in -- box, helmet. Taking delivery next week. Any advice for someone who has not ridden for more than 20 years?

 

Yes, drivers are alot more impatient towards bikes now. They overtake you in your lane!

Posted
Yes, drivers are alot more impatient towards bikes now. They overtake you in your lane!

 

I drive too, but don't think I am a hazard to two-wheelers.

 

Does it help if one rides in the centre of the lane? That way, unless there is a really vicious driver, overtaking has to be done from another lane.

Posted

I ride like I drive. Right in the middle. No lane splitting. However alot of drivers with poor roadmanship will still pass you with a meter or less separation from either side, even if you are at the speed limit (ie 90km in non over taking lane on highway)

Posted
Belt changes @ every 15K or 12K.

 

With Battery Light onz, doing the following step ( from cheapest to the most exp)

 

1) Check battery voltage ( min reading 11~12V)

2) Check rectifier (If Volt meter reading go up to 14.4 and above... good luck)

3) magneto coil ( super expensive to replace )

 

Step to check ur magneto coil.

1)Start ur engine, off all light.

2 )wait till the temp meter go up to 2 bar.

3)look at the RPM it shld be stable by now.

4) no ur head light

5) if RPM SHOULD NOT shoot up, abit is ok but not too much.

6) after shooting up, is normal that rpm will go back to the reading before you on the headlight.

If RPM shoot up too high... then there might be problem with ur magento coil.

 

Thanks lots bro..btw the light on-off..use handstarter no problem...its been few mths liao..

Posted
Greetings all.

 

Used to ride a Vespa but that was eons ago. Am hoping to get back on two wheels again and just put my money down for a Sym Joyride 200i Evo. Paid $7900. Mah Pte Ltd. A couple of freebies thrown in -- box, helmet. Taking delivery next week. Any advice for someone who has not ridden for more than 20 years?

 

If need advice on maitainece, you can post here any time.

 

If regarding safety, you might want to find 1 day for an hour ride or more during off peak hours to get use to your new scooter. Alot depend on other road user especially those on 4 wheels even if you ride slow and safe. Defensive riding is the key. How to be defensive? Ride like you are going to have an accident and it will keep you alert and ready for action. It is very stressful to be in that mode but is necessary. You are sharing road with bigger vehicle and it is very difficult for them to see you.

Do not ride in vehicle blind spot. How to know if you are in other vehicle blind spot. If you can't see the driver's face infront or sides then you are in their blind spot. Meaning either their rear view mirror or side mirror.

Like some one mention before, use the sea rule - the bigger ship (car in this sense) has the right of way. Don't tail gate. What you need is road experience - anticipating what the cars infront is trying to do. If during heavy traffic, always beware of empty spaces, you will get drivers turn out suddenly and speed into the spaces. Very common and normal practice and very dangerous to us bikers alike. Have encounter numerous times, have to jam brake and my balls was like at my throat :D

 

When the traffic is light and you are able to keep a safe distance from the cars in front, ride in the middle of that particular lane. I have seen biker ride on the dotted line and the car behind don't know to pass him on the left or on the right this goes on through out the BKE. I was like what is this guy thinking??? Just my opinion :D

Posted
I ride like I drive. Right in the middle. No lane splitting. However alot of drivers with poor roadmanship will still pass you with a meter or less separation from either side, even if you are at the speed limit (ie 90km in non over taking lane on highway)

 

If need advice on maitainece, you can post here any time.

 

If regarding safety, you might want to find 1 day for an hour ride or more during off peak hours to get use to your new scooter. Alot depend on other road user especially those on 4 wheels even if you ride slow and safe. Defensive riding is the key. How to be defensive? Ride like you are going to have an accident and it will keep you alert and ready for action. It is very stressful to be in that mode but is necessary. You are sharing road with bigger vehicle and it is very difficult for them to see you.

Do not ride in vehicle blind spot. How to know if you are in other vehicle blind spot. If you can't see the driver's face infront or sides then you are in their blind spot. Meaning either their rear view mirror or side mirror.

Like some one mention before, use the sea rule - the bigger ship (car in this sense) has the right of way. Don't tail gate. What you need is road experience - anticipating what the cars infront is trying to do. If during heavy traffic, always beware of empty spaces, you will get drivers turn out suddenly and speed into the spaces. Very common and normal practice and very dangerous to us bikers alike. Have encounter numerous times, have to jam brake and my balls was like at my throat :D

 

When the traffic is light and you are able to keep a safe distance from the cars in front, ride in the middle of that particular lane. I have seen biker ride on the dotted line and the car behind don't know to pass him on the left or on the right this goes on through out the BKE. I was like what is this guy thinking??? Just my opinion :D

I will take one lane but will ride a little to the right side. By doing this, you will be in line of sight of driver behind you. Then again, riding in this manner ... you sometimes get retarded driver overtaking from the left. Best habit would be ... a) ride defensively b) never exercise your rights on the road and c) be aware of your surrounding.

Ride safe always.

ARCHIVED: TX500/CB550F/CB750K4/CB750F2/ZR750/CB750F/GSR600/ZG1000/ST1100/GPZ400/

CB1/Silverwing/GL1500SE/GL1500SEW/GL1800A1/GL1800A2/GL1800A4/FJR1300ABS/TMax

ACTIVE: GL1800A12 & SYM200

 

 

Assumption is the mother of all fu@kup

Posted

Yup, I always let idiots win in 50 50 situations while on the move. Even if u are right or have right of way 2 wheelers will always lose. The defensive riding mode is stressful and tiring in the begining, but once that safe riding habit pattern is moulded it's like second nature.

 

Ride safe and arrive alive, all the time.

Posted

I cannot agree more that defensive driving is key to one's personal safety. Thanks for all the inputs so far, bros.

 

One question about running in of a new machine. The manual says not to exceed 60 km/hr for the 1st 1000km. Isn't that rather difficult to do, especially on a highway?

Posted

Run normally. You can let engine idle for 3 to 5minutes then ride normally. If you must ride off immediately, ride slowly around 3000rpm then slowly increase rpm until you feel the scoot is warm up or by looking at the temperature gauge. Should be 2 bars i think.

 

Seriously, have anyone heard of engine break down due to wrong run-in or not at all?

The problem with engine break down are not cause by engine not running-in but by jokers who wack their bike/scooter with no knowledge of warming up and over revving (motorcycles that is, ha ha scooter cannot over rev unless steep downslope and open full throttle).

 

So ride normally with a fully warm up scooter. If need to go 100km/h go.

 

If you are skeptical, look more on internet about wrong running in or what are the causes of an engine not running in as per factory recommendation.

Posted

Came across this page, which seems to contradict what the manual says. But it also seems to make sense. Comments, anyone?

Posted

I used this method with no problems so far...apart from the rattling and other tiny noises from the transmission recently after almost 2 month of use since new.

 

You see, the problem is not that it doesn't work or does it work which is the question?

If you did this method with no problems...great, but if the engine seems to be weird or noisy after using this method, you will automatically regret that you shouldn't have follow otherwise.

 

And if you did as per normal factory recommendation with no problems than you wish that the engine might have better performance.

 

In my opinion. Play safe, run normally as per factory recommendation. If anything wrong you can go back shop. If you run motoman way and anything wrong you still can go back motorshop. The difference is which method would you wish to have followed should something goes wrong.

Posted (edited)

Motoman method is not asking you to wack your bike but to do some stretching exercise like sprinting once in a while during running to flex your muscle a bit to loosen up. Sprint, run sprint, run to give the body a good workout.

Something like that. All this is done with a fully warm up body. Engine are like human body. After warm warm do you sprint straight away? No right? Unless you are going for race lah :D

Edited by parotae
Posted

I kinda like Motoman's method because unlike conventional thinking, he seems to have taken the various advances of engine-building into account. And the redlining routines at many bike factories do seem to contradict the conventional advice given in the manual. The point that he made -- that manuals advise soft run-ins because of the safety factor -- also sounds reasonable. And yes, safety is of prime consideration of course: the worst thing is to crash a new machine because of anxiety about wanting to run it in properly.

 

So parotae... did you actually change your engine oil after 30km instead of 300km?

Posted

FYI I'm riding a kymco downtown 300.

 

No I did not because I only happened to read the motoman article after a few days upon collecting my scoot. I called agent that I want to change oil early and they say no need until 800km. I say but I want to change early can. I told them that my milage is 200km but I still want to change as Im afraid of tiny metal debris. They say they cange so many downtown all very clean and no debri so no need.

Ha ha, I cannot wait, so bought 2X mobile mineral oil 20W50(yes that is my factory recommended grade) and mobil premium synthetic gear oil 75W90. Change only 2 without oil filter change as I assume that if the filter is filled with metal debris them it will make the tolerance for particle to pass through smaller ha ha my theory.

 

When my 800km up I went and change oil and they happen to not change the oil filter also. The oil they use is GT don't know what funny brand, felt uncomfortable so change at 1200km with Caltex Havoline mineral 20W50 with an oil filter change this time. Next oil change will be at 5000km. Have to say the GT funny oil felt better than the current Caltex hmmmm??? Funny oil with Grade G rating felt better than Grade M (Caltex). Caltex can feel the drag and not as powerful.

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