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Posted (edited)

hey guys i've heard abt tunning b4 but i dun know how it works at all..i jus send my bike for overhual getting it back todae..i think it requires some tunning rite? how does it actually works?does gd tunning improve the bike capabilites while bad tunning does the oposite?some advice from lao jiao pls...riding an sp btw..

Edited by dixon1990
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Posted

It should be called 'running in' you can just goggle it and read up but its just making the engine parts 'gel' together at different temperatures. Just try not to run fast, cannot more than 60km/h if i'm not wrong for the 1st 500km. then after that go back and have your engine oil changed and engine checked. Hope i'm right and hope it help.

Thru my eyes, you will see the lines of reality blur <[!_!]>

Posted
hey guys i've heard abt tunning b4 but i dun know how it works at all..i jus send my bike for overhual getting it back todae..i think it requires some tunning rite? how does it actually works?does gd tunning improve the bike capabilites while bad tunning does the oposite?some advice from lao jiao pls...riding an sp btw..

U shld just check the color of ya spark plugs .. diff color indicates the exact tunin of ya bike ...

Be humble on the road at all times coz u'll neva noe wen u need any rider's help...

Posted

hmmm so dats called tunning? hmmm..my bike mech told me to run in for 1k click not hitting more den 6rpm for each gear..after 500 click den go back and tune again and change engine oil..hmmm..i dun get u wawan wad spark plug diff color..u mean theres diff color?so wad does each diff color do? ** btw..my knob for setting the idiling came out when i tried to lower the idling rpm but i found it in the end and fix back and set my idle setting 1.5k rpm but after moving off awhile later..my idling became 3k or 4k at times..i had to stop at 1 side and turn it again..did me causing the knob to fall out affect anything? cuz this only happened when i not careful turn too much dat it came out..now the idling keeps increasing at times..decreasing sometime too.. **another point is does the "rubber" for the air box affect anithing?cuz the rubber for mine was not there..i hope its not causing me to lose any low -high end power due to air leaking?btw the rubber is located jus on the top when u remove the fuel tank some help pls..=) tks**

Posted (edited)

What you are referring to is probably the airbox intake scoop. It does not make much difference except that air box is less restricted now.

 

With regards to your fluctuating rpms... you need to do some 'tuning' of the carb again.

 

You will probably have to turn in the fuel mixture screw for the idle jet. If turning the fuel mixture screw all the way in does not affect the rpm... you need a smaller idle jet.

 

On a wrongly jetted carb RPM fluctuations tend to occur when the engine is hot... when the fuel air mixture is heated up... the air molecules expand and the fuel/air ratio changes to richer coz there is less air molecules whilst the idle jet still provides the same amount of fuel.

 

When the mixture gets richer...the engine produces more power and so the rpm will climb even without you increasing the throttle.

 

When you stop and turn out the idle stop adjustment screw.. you are physically closing the throttle slide on the carb. What you are doing then is cutting the amount of fuel/air mixture to the engine...literally starving it to make it slow down... which causes the rpm to drop.

 

But when the engine is cold... and you try to start the bike again... you will have a hard time starting it and it won't idle properly and have to rev like hell to heat up the engine before it can idle properly again.

Edited by Raptor

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Posted
What you are referring to is probably the airbox intake scoop. It does not make much difference except that air box is less restricted now.

 

With regards to your fluctuating rpms... you need to do some 'tuning' of the carb again.

 

You will probably have to turn in the fuel mixture screw for the idle jet. If turning the fuel mixture screw all the way in does not affect the rpm... you need a smaller idle jet.

 

On a wrongly jetted carb RPM fluctuations tend to occur when the engine is hot... when the fuel air mixture is heated up... the air molecules expand and the fuel/air ratio changes to richer coz there is less air molecules whilst the idle jet still provides the same amount of fuel.

 

When the mixture gets richer...the engine produces more power and so the rpm will climb even without you increasing the throttle.

 

When you stop and turn out the idle stop adjustment screw.. you are physically closing the throttle slide on the carb. What you are doing then is cutting the amount of fuel/air mixture to the engine...literally starving it to make it slow down... which causes the rpm to drop.

 

But when the engine is cold... and you try to start the bike again... you will have a hard time starting it and it won't idle properly and have to rev like hell to heat up the engine before it can idle properly again.

hmmm i went back motordiam to have my idle screw check..he said the spring came out..dat explained y my idle was increasing when i m moving off..as its loose..btw..iw/o the rubber the airbox is less restrict?does it post any harm to my bike if its removed?also..does it improve any part of the bike functions?high-low end? low-high end? tks tks

Posted
hmmm i went back motordiam to have my idle screw check..he said the spring came out..dat explained y my idle was increasing when i m moving off..as its loose..btw..iw/o the rubber the airbox is less restrict?does it post any harm to my bike if its removed?also..does it improve any part of the bike functions?high-low end? low-high end? tks tks

 

Low end pick up is improved, air box roar is louder during accelerations.

 

No harm... as long as your air filter is not removed.

 

There are some idiots who remove the air filter completely thinking they can improve the pickup of the bike.

 

You can.. by a very small percentage only which will be outweighed by the cost of engine damage in the long run.

 

Replacing with more efficient air filters eg K&N or washing it frequently would be a smarter and better option.

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Posted
hmmm but when i bought it my filter was misssing..think the previous owner did all those..

 

I think the previous owner is an idiot if he has been riding around without an air filter. Bike engineers with years of engineering experience put in a filter on the bike at the factory and out local "racing engineers" remove it.

 

You can expect alot of problems with the carb and engine because of dirt induction.

 

Dunno why alot of riders like to do funny things to their bikes and then after that wonder why the bike does not perform well.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1208-1.jpg

 

FAA licenced motorcycle mechanic :angel:

 

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